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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Always Buy The Factory Bracelet - Hunting Down One For My IWC Mark XV Fratello
IWC Mark XV May 13, 2024

Always Buy The Factory Bracelet - Hunting Down One For My IWC Mark XV

This IWC bracelet has completely transformed the wearing experience of my “go anywhere, do anything” timepiece, the Mark XV. RJ often advises always getting the factory bracelet on a watch whenever possible. No truer words have been spoken, it seems, as my journey in trying to acquire a bracelet for my IWC Mark XV finally […] Visit Always Buy The Factory Bracelet - Hunting Down One For My IWC Mark XV to read the full article.

Yema Slims Down the Navygraf in a New Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Yema May 13, 2024

Yema Slims Down the Navygraf in a New Limited Edition

A micro-rotor dive watch? For under $2,000? At first blush, the concept may seem outrageous. After all, micro-rotor movements are typically reserved for high-end dress watches and complicated Indies. They’re hardly at home in the sort of accessible dive watches so many of us like, but Yema has - for the second time this year - dropped a svelte micro-rotor-powered dive watch, and they certainly have my attention. Yema is not a new name in the watch space. The brand has been around in some form or another since 1948 and, since its return to French ownership in 2008, the brand has been working hard to build itself into a leading French watchmaker. While they are best known today for their vintage-inspired dive watches like the Superman, over the last few years, Yema has slowly been building up a quiver of French-made manufacture movements produced in France’s own version of the Vallée de Joux, the watchmaking hub of Morteau. To date, they have introduced three movements in this series of French-designed calibers, with more surely to come. Though still reliant on Switzerland for regulating organs and some movement parts (not a bad thing on any level, even Roger Smith uses Swiss-made mainsprings), these movements have been a big step for the brand, and are far from being simple ETA or Sellita clones, like we so often see. The first of these was the CMM.20, a slim 3.7mm ultra-thin micro-rotor movement, with near-COSC accuracy, an anti-magnetic construction, a 70-hour po...

Taking A Bite Of The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph And Frosted Gold Selfwinding With Their Crème Brûlée Dials Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph May 13, 2024

Taking A Bite Of The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph And Frosted Gold Selfwinding With Their Crème Brûlée Dials

Why have just one good thing if you can have two? The dial of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph shows the brand’s famous Grande Tapisserie pattern and a smoky effect. The 37mm Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding doesn’t have a three-dimensional effect on the dial but, instead, pairs the graduated effect with a case […] Visit Taking A Bite Of The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph And Frosted Gold Selfwinding With Their Crème Brûlée Dials to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Jorg’s Picks From Formex, Christopher Ward, Unimatic, And More Fratello
Christopher Ward Unimatic May 13, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Jorg’s Picks From Formex, Christopher Ward, Unimatic, And More

Picking the best watches under €2,500 is tough. There are so many different options. Next to the world of microbrands, the world of bigger brands also opens up nicely with €2,500 to spend. This made the search for possible options quite extensive. You could even call it a mission because the goal of this list […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Jorg’s Picks From Formex, Christopher Ward, Unimatic, And More to read the full article.

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Christopher Ward Twelve X – one May 12, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 80 – Highlights from the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair

In this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, we’re coming to from the Gateway Pavillion at Fort Mason in San Francisco, where just last week nearly 100 watch and gear brands came together for the biggest Windup Watch Fair on record. It was a truly great time, and we’re excited to do it again in Chicago in just a few months! As is customary for the Windup editions of A Week in Watches, we’re bringing you highlights from the show this week. Managing Editor Zach Kazan talks to Mike Pearson about the all new Christopher Ward Twelve X – one of the true sensations not just of Windup, but in the watch world at large over the last few weeks. He also chats with Nicholas Bowman-Scargill from Fears and Rob Caplan from Topper Jewelers about their latest collaboration, which launched at the fair, and he spends some time with another new release from Paulin that was also a huge hit with the San Francisco crowd. Finally, Zach chats with Trip Henderson, Founder of Lōcī Watches, a young California based brand making their Windup Watch Fair debut.  The post A Week in Watches Ep. 80 – Highlights from the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair appeared first on Worn & Wound.

REVIEW: Hands On With The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon EOD WatchAdvice
Hamilton Waltham May 12, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon EOD

We go hands on with the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon EOD to see just how robust this tool watch really is! What We Love Its “Bullet Proof” buildThe micro gas lights and lumeIngenious shock-resistant systems What We Don’t The size as it wears larger than the specs suggestMix of titanium and steel feels a little oddThe clasp isn’t as comfortable and could be better designed Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 9/10 Ball is one of those brands that’s been around for a long while, since 1891 in fact, and probably doesn’t get as much credit as they deserve. Many brands are in the same boat unfortunately, but this is the world we live in. A big part of that is to do with marketing to be honest, and the rest is down to the watches, design, current trends, and culture. It all plays a part. Ball is a brand that was born out of the American railroad era. Similar to other brands that got their start or came to prominence as a result, like Hamilton, Waltham, and others if I can draw that association. For those who aren’t familiar with this era in watchmaking, here’s a very quick history lesson. Back in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, the United States was going through its industrial revolution. A big part of that was the American railway – all industries relied on this to get supplies for manufacturing, agriculture, building etc from one coast to the other. And this meant that the trains had to run in time and like...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: the Mudita Element Launches on Kickstarter, 10 Things Jerry Seinfeld Can’t Live Without, and a New Seasonal Release from Tactile Turn Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Cartier May 11, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: the Mudita Element Launches on Kickstarter, 10 Things Jerry Seinfeld Can’t Live Without, and a New Seasonal Release from Tactile Turn

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. This week’s Watches, Stories and Gear is sponsored by Mudita. Check out the new Mudita Element and a link to their Kickstarter below. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com A Screen Icon’s Watches on the Auction Block This week, Sotheby’s announced that they’ll be auctioning off a selection of Sylvester Stallone’s watches, and his collection is full of heavy hitters, to say the least. We’ve long known Stallone to be a watch guy, and he’s perhaps best known for wearing Panerais on screen and in public. Many, in fact, credit him with popularizing the brand in the mainstream as it rose to prominence twenty years ago. But Sly’s collection, as it turns out, goes way deeper than Panerai. Among the watches that will be auctioned are timepieces from Audemars Piguet, Cartier, and Rolex, as well as several Patek Philippes. The most notable of the Pateks, without a doubt, is a 6300G-010 Grandmaster Chime, the brand’s most complicated wristwatch. Stallone’s example is the first ever to be sold at auction. What’s more, it’s in completely untouched condition. It’s literally still in the sealed plastic bag it ca...

Weekend Contemplation: The Watch Market Isn’t In Crisis, But How Should We Describe Its Current State? Fratello
Rolex Daytona was worth just May 11, 2024

Weekend Contemplation: The Watch Market Isn’t In Crisis, But How Should We Describe Its Current State?

In March 2022, the global watch market was at an all-time high. A stainless steel Rolex Daytona was worth just over €50,000, any new limited-edition watch would sell out in a matter of minutes, and sites like Fratello attracted a lot of new readers. Since then, things have cooled down substantially. According to Chrono24, that […] Visit Weekend Contemplation: The Watch Market Isn’t In Crisis, But How Should We Describe Its Current State? to read the full article.

Road-Testing The Baltic Tricompax × Tour Auto 2024 On Two Stages Of The Classic Car Rally Across France Fratello
Baltic Tricompax × Tour Auto May 11, 2024

Road-Testing The Baltic Tricompax × Tour Auto 2024 On Two Stages Of The Classic Car Rally Across France

There is an inescapable bond between chronographs and the world of motorsport. Many of the most celebrated examples take their names from races like the Carrera Panamericana or the Daytona 500. So what better way to test the new Baltic Tricompax × Tour Auto 2024 edition than on the race that gives it its name? […] Visit Road-Testing The Baltic Tricompax × Tour Auto 2024 On Two Stages Of The Classic Car Rally Across France to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Extreme Casio G-Shock Frogman MRG-BF1000B-1A Fratello
Casio G-Shock Frogman MRG-BF1000B-1A Could May 10, 2024

Hands-On With The Extreme Casio G-Shock Frogman MRG-BF1000B-1A

Could the most extreme G-Shocks become even more extreme? To ask the question is to answer it. You know that Casio is always looking for ways to make its G-Shock watches more capable, and as a result, they have become more extreme. The brand’s Frogman is part of the professional MR-G collection. This collection of […] Visit Hands-On With The Extreme Casio G-Shock Frogman MRG-BF1000B-1A to read the full article.

The Top 10 Watchmaker Schools in the United States Teddy Baldassarre
May 10, 2024

The Top 10 Watchmaker Schools in the United States

For most of us, the art and science of watchmaking is simply the technical underpinning behind the timepieces that fascinate us as enthusiasts, hobbyists, and collectors - an esoteric and intricate world delved into at varying levels of interest based on our individual curiosity about, and/or understanding of, the mechanisms involved. For some, however, learning how to assemble, repair, or perhaps even build a watch from scratch is an obsession that can lead to a lifelong and very fulfilling career as a trained watchmaker and repairer- and to put it bluntly, the watch industry needs more of them. Here are the 10 state-accredited educational institutions in the U.S. offering full-time curricula for watchmaking careers as compiled by the Horological Society of New York.  Gem City College School of Horology, Quincy, IL Photo: AWCI Gem City College was founded in 1870 as Gem City Business College by Civil War veteran DeLafayette Musselman, whose name still adorns one of the campus buildings. Located in the city of Quincy, adjacent to the Mississippi River, the College added its horology school in 1961, which was a department that had actually migrated over from Bradley University in neighboring Peoria, as well as a cosmetology program in 1975, expanding from its original business model of training students in business-specific courses like banking, penmanship, and accounting. Today, the Horology School offers courses in watchmaking and watch repair, clock repair, jew...

Brew Teams Up with Alton Brown for the Limited Edition Retrograph Relic Worn & Wound
Brew Teams Up May 10, 2024

Brew Teams Up with Alton Brown for the Limited Edition Retrograph Relic

The success story that is the Brew Watch Co. is one of our favorites in the entire industry. Jonathan Ferrer’s brand has grown well beyond its initial humble scope over the course of the last few years with a series of releases that have transcended the microbrand bubble, gaining admirers from every corner of the watch community. With Brew, it all comes down to the design, and every new watch proves once again that you don’t need to spend a fortune to own something unique and genuinely special. Brew’s latest release calls back to the brand’s foundation in coffee themed designs while treading new ground with a high profile collaborator. The new Retrograph Relic, released in partnership with Alton Brown, feels like a full circle moment for the brand, and for watch fans who came of age watching “Good Eats” it offers a ton of charm.  What we have here is a Retrograph, Brew’s signature Meca-Quartz chronograph, with a special oxidized dial that has been treated to express what Brew calls an “espresso-esque patina.” The tones of brown form randomly on the dial during the process, so each of the 250 pieces in this limited edition is unique.  Alton Brown’s involvement makes sense on a few levels. First, he’s a very notable watch guy, having appeared on Hodinkee’s Talking Watches all the way back in 2017, and being the subject of watch-spots from the Instagram community for even longer. Secondly, if you know his work on “Good Eats,” you know that he tak...

Hands-On: The Brand-New Lesablier LS-04 Travelgraph - An Affordable, Compact, And Feature-Packed Worldtimer Fratello
May 10, 2024

Hands-On: The Brand-New Lesablier LS-04 Travelgraph - An Affordable, Compact, And Feature-Packed Worldtimer

It’s not often that we get to review a watch from a brand that is completely new to us. This week, though, I had the honor to get up close and personal with a new watch from a young brand called Lesablier. It was the LS-04 Travelgraph, and, in short, I’d describe it as a […] Visit Hands-On: The Brand-New Lesablier LS-04 Travelgraph - An Affordable, Compact, And Feature-Packed Worldtimer to read the full article.

Tissot Debuts New Green Dials for the PRX SJX Watches
Tissot Debuts New Green Dials May 10, 2024

Tissot Debuts New Green Dials for the PRX

A bestseller thanks to its integrated-bracelet design and accessible price, the Tissot PRX now gets more new dial options, including a “light green” hue for the time-only PRX Powermatic 80 and a “graded” green for the PRX Chronograph. The new green dials join the recent blue dial options and more compact 35mm model. Initial thoughts The new models are only cosmetic updates, but are otherwise the same. The brushed steel cases and ETA movements remain unchanged. So do the respective prices, making them the same value propositions as before. Notably, the chronograph dial gets a more substantive cosmetic upgrade beyond the colour. It now sports the waffle-patterned dial previously found only on the PRX time-only models. This is an attractive upgrade that imbues the model with a sportier aesthetic. New dial options The Powermatic 80’s dial features the same waffle pattern found in past models, but now finished in a “light” green hue that first seen on the quartz version released in 2021. The chronograph dial is presented in a darker shade of green with a gradient finish. It also gains the same stamped pattern found on the time-only model. This marks a departure from previous iterations of the chronograph, which were characterised by a vertically brushed finish with a two-colour scheme. Both watches retain the same case dimensions and movements found on earlier models. The three-hander is powered by the Powermatic 80.111, derived from the ETA C07.111. Tissot has e...

Fratello On Air: Overreacting To The TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith And Other Watches Fratello
TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith May 10, 2024

Fratello On Air: Overreacting To The TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith And Other Watches

This week, Fratello On Air returns on its non-normal day because your co-hosts have been under the weather. We’re both on the mend, though, and happy to be on the airwaves. In this episode, we cover several topics, but our main discussion centers on the recent TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith releases. We try […] Visit Fratello On Air: Overreacting To The TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith And Other Watches to read the full article.

Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle Fratello
Cartier Showing How It’s Done? May 10, 2024

Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle

We have heard quite a few complaints from brands about the watch market recently. Many are struggling from economic uncertainty and a serious correction after lockdown-induced all-time highs. One brand, however, seems to be on a bit of a winning streak. According to Morgan Stanley, Cartier overtook Omega as the second-largest Swiss watchmaker behind Rolex […] Visit Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle to read the full article.

Introducing the B/1, the Debut Watch from Toledano & Chan Worn & Wound
Cartier s May 9, 2024

Introducing the B/1, the Debut Watch from Toledano & Chan

A long lived pet peeve of mine in the watch industry is people referring to watches as “Brutalist” without having a clue about what the term really means. How, I always wonder, can a brand refer to their watch as being inspired by Brutalist architecture without it even being made of concrete? Well, the debut watch from Toledano & Chan is properly Brutalist in a very specific way, and truly lives up to its inspiration. And while the watch itself might not be made of concrete, the box is (really), and as someone who identifies Boston City Hall as one of his favorite buildings, that scores major points in my book.  The B/1 is the result of a collaboration between watch designer Alfred Chan and artist, watch collector, entrepreneur, and budding TikTok personality Phil Toledano. You may remember Phil from his appearance on the Worn & Wound podcast, and if you’ve spent any time looking at watches on Instagram or TikTok, you’ve likely seen him unboxing new (but actually old) Pateks, Cartiers, and Piagets with his pal Mike Nouveau. Phil (who goes my Mr. Enthusiast on social media) has long been one of my favorite collectors for his eccentric and adventurous taste, fully embracing the strangest and rarest designs by the aforementioned brands and many others. If the industry as a whole is currently moving toward smaller watches, shaped cases, stone dials, and the avant-garde, let it be said that Phil got there first. He’s been interested in this stuff for years, and bangi...

Hands-on – The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Shows Great Promise Monochrome
IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph May 9, 2024

Hands-on – The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Shows Great Promise

As we approached the end of 2023, the landscape for those seeking an obtainable motorsport-inspired chronograph underwent a shift, offering a slightly broader array of options. This was spurred by the notable introduction of an extension to IWC‘s Pilot’s Watch series: the Performance Chronograph 41. Available in titanium to commemorate the brand’s enduring partnership with […]

Introducing: The Architectural Futurism Of Toledano & Chan’s B/1 Fratello
May 9, 2024

Introducing: The Architectural Futurism Of Toledano & Chan’s B/1

There’s no denying that we’re in a spinning loop of retro reissues. While some are beautiful and poignant time-traveling talismans capable of mood-elevating magic, some are just cash cows. But if you’re into asymmetric modernity, the architectural futurism of the Toledano & Chan B/1 brings a much-needed breath of fresh air. This year, Watches and […] Visit Introducing: The Architectural Futurism Of Toledano & Chan’s B/1 to read the full article.

Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold Ultramarine Blue And Sage Green Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold May 9, 2024

Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold Ultramarine Blue And Sage Green

Next year, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato will turn 50. I’m telling you this now, well ahead of the anniversary, so you can prepare yourself for a wave of novelties. One year before the watch’s big anniversary, two very fresh yet rich versions make their debut. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold Sage Green and Ultramarine Blue […] Visit Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold Ultramarine Blue And Sage Green to read the full article.

First Look – The New Editions of the Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition Hamilton May 9, 2024

First Look – The New Editions of the Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition

Hamilton, once one of America’s greatest watchmakers, was a precursor of the field watch during World War 1. Supplying precision railroad watches to soldiers under General Pershing’s command, Hamilton adapted its pocket watches to wristwatch format, eventually supplying over one million wristwatches to the U.S. military during World War II. Fast-forward almost 80 years, and […]