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Kering Watches

Pinault\'s Kering luxury group. Watch portfolio: Girard-Perregaux (2011) + Ulysse Nardin (2014). Combined revenue ~CHF 200-300M.

HANDS-ON: The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans & Ripples Date bring new colour and complication Time+Tide
Speake-Marin May 10, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans & Ripples Date bring new colour and complication

These days, for a manufacture not to have an integrated watch design is a bit like not having a smartphone. Sure, there may be a bit of respect for these flip-phone manufactures resisting the trend and times. But, ultimately, in the midst of the craze, having a solid integrated sports watch within a manufacture portfolio … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans & Ripples Date bring new colour and complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] Hands-On: Zenith Opens Up the Defy Skyline with Skyline Skeleton Worn & Wound
Zenith Opens Up May 9, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On: Zenith Opens Up the Defy Skyline with Skyline Skeleton

The Zenith Defy collection of watches spans an almost shocking array of references, including watches like the Revival darlings, right on up to crazy Defy Extremes and Defy 21s. Connecting all of these dots is the new(ish) Defy Skyline collection, which was introduced early last year, and which welcomed new iterations this year, including a variant meant to replace the excellent Defy Classic with an open dial. That watch is the Defy Skyline Skeleton, and it’s not simply an openworked version of the regular Skyline. This is a distinct watch in a few important ways, bringing some of the big personality found in the Extreme and 21 references, into a slightly more approachable framework.  The Skyline Skeleton takes its Defy roots seriously. From its wrist watch inception back in the ‘60s, the Defy has been a vehicle through which Zenith has strived to craft the future of watchmaking. This manifested in avant guard shapes, high-tech movements, and intricate bracelet integrations from the get go. Today, Zenith honors this heritage with their Revival series, but for all intents and purposes, the Defy range as it exists today, is still pushing the envelope in looking to the future. $11000 [VIDEO] Hands-On: Zenith Opens Up the Defy Skyline with Skyline Skeleton Case Stainless Steel Movement El Primero 3620 SK high-frequency Dial Black or Blue Skeleton Lume Super Luminova Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless Steel; Rubber Water Resistance 10ATM Dimensions 41x46mm Thickness 11.6mm Lug ...

WHAT IF… Grand Seiko finally made a smaller dive watch Time+Tide
Grand Seiko finally made May 9, 2023

WHAT IF… Grand Seiko finally made a smaller dive watch

Editor’s note: What if? It can be a prefix of imagination, wonder and hope. On the other side of the coin, it can also provoke a melancholy game of hindsight. But within this new column, it is simply a space for us to experiment with our curiosity. Marvel fans will be familiar with the thought-provoking … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… Grand Seiko finally made a smaller dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bravur Unveils a New Cycling Inspired Watch, Just in Time for Italy’s Giro d’Italia Worn & Wound
Bravur May 9, 2023

Bravur Unveils a New Cycling Inspired Watch, Just in Time for Italy’s Giro d’Italia

The transformation of Bravur, the small Swedish microbrand that has always taken a demonstrably Scandinavian approach to their watch designs, into a boutique label focusing largely on cycling influenced watches, has to be one of the least expected developments in our space over the past few years. Maybe it shouldn’t have been, though. Brand founders Magnus Äppelryd and Johan Sahlin are both cycling enthusiasts, and the design inspiration for their watches has always come from a personal place. Maybe it was only a matter of time? Of course, not all of the watches in their collection are cycling inspired, but limited edition chronographs released to mark major pro cycling races have become something of an expectation at this point, and it has changed the brand identity in a real way. The latest watch in this vein, the La Corsa Rosa III, continues the trend while establishing some new design notes as well.  I’ll come right out and say at the outset that I am not a cycling enthusiast. I don’t even really keep up with following cycling’s professional ranks in a casual way. I think that means I’m probably not the target market for these watches, but I have to say, I’ve always been really fond of them. I love watches that appeal to a very specific niche, the narrower the better, and these seem to fit that bill nicely. I’m also a big fan of the creative use of color on watch dials, and the general format Bravur has followed by borrowing traditional colors associate...

HANDS-ON: The Depancel Serie-R 5th Anniversary Time+Tide
May 9, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Depancel Serie-R 5th Anniversary

Five years is a drop in the ocean for a heritage watchmaker, but for a brand like Depancel the wooden anniversary is truly significant. The spirit of racing runs through them much deeper than their short existence may suggest, and they manage to stand out in a truly flooded market of motoring-inspired watches. Their best … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Depancel Serie-R 5th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph One May 9, 2023

Hands On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

One of my favorite releases from Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph. Complicated Reversos are almost always interesting given the space constraints and commercial implications in developing rectangular movements, and the Tribute Chronograph is no exception.  The new chronograph is a remake of sorts that honours one of the brand’s signature watches from the 1990s. While the original Reverso Chronographe Retrograde was a 500-piece limited edition in pink gold from 1996, the Tribute Chronograph is a regular production watch available in both pink gold or steel. Both versions feature a sun-ray brushed primary dial and partially open-worked chronograph dial on the reverse. Initial thoughts As a fan of the original Reverso chronograph, I am excited to see this concept brought back to life. The key elements that made the original unique, namely the distinct styles of the two faces and the compact, rectangular chronograph movement, have been retained and updated. Both the steel and pink gold references are attractive, but the pink gold version is arguably the most appealing with its gold-on-black livery that brings to mind vintage “gilt” dials.  That said, there are a few trade-offs that give me pause. The large case of the Tribute Chronograph is potentially problematic for some wrists, and the simplified dial feels generic (whereas the original had a guilloche dial). I am also conflicted about the movement. On one hand, it’s gre...

A new three-day movement for the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart Time+Tide
Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open May 9, 2023

A new three-day movement for the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart

Two new variants, the SPB415 and SPB417 join the Seiko Sharp Edged Series The 6R5J movement debuts with 72 hours of power reserve New details can be found on the case finishing and the dial Seiko’s Presage collection is known for its versatility, offering everything from higher-end Masterpiece models to more affordable Cocktail Time timepieces. … ContinuedThe post A new three-day movement for the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: the Atelier Holgur Frømand Worn & Wound
De Bethune May 8, 2023

Review: the Atelier Holgur Frømand

One of the great things about the current state of the watch world is the insane variety of watches that are available. We’re at a point (or at least approaching one) where brands of all stripes are willing to get creative in ways we haven’t seen in years. We’ve come out of a long period of time dominated by vintage inspired watches that all felt cut from the same cloth, and it feels like we’re now at the beginning of a new movement where makers large and small are aiming for narrower and narrower niches. I’m lucky to have seen some of the watches coming from brands we all admire later in the year, and I’m confident that when the dust settles we’ll be talking about a sea change toward more adventurous designs and a level of watchmaking once reserved for the super wealthy being made accessible to new customers for the first time. This is why I’m more interested than ever in the micro indies I’ve discussed in these pages previously. It feels like there’s a nearly infinite opportunity for brands to create special, unusual, innovative, and original watches for an audience that’s simultaneously incredibly broad and highly specialized. There’s no shortage of collectors interested in getting something unique – a byproduct of the aforementioned decade of lookalike black dialed divers. And yet, each individual watch forces you to ask, “Who is this for?” That’s a question that most of us wonder everytime we look at an MB&F; or De Bethune, and the answe...

William Massena to Sell the Upcoming Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription through the Newly Created Massena HOUSE Retail Concept Worn & Wound
Louis Vuitton s watchmaking arm It May 8, 2023

William Massena to Sell the Upcoming Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription through the Newly Created Massena HOUSE Retail Concept

The latest news to come from our friends at Massena LAB doesn’t actually concern a new watch, but rather an entirely new retail operation. Last week, William Massena, the founder of the NYC based creative studio that has produced a string of popular limited edition watches over the last three years, announced Massena HOUSE, which he describes as a new community and retail concept that will focus on independent watchmaking. We seem to be heading toward a period where interest in independent brands across the pricing spectrum is at a fever pitch, so the timing here would appear to be ideal on Massena’s part. What’s more, the first brand announced to be sold through Massena HOUSE is a real coup.  Daniel Roth, having recently been relaunched, is the first brand Massena has announced will be retailed through his Massena HOUSE operation. To paraphrase a quote that is sometimes heard in the political realm, this is a very big deal indeed. Daniel Roth’s eponymous brand is one of the origin points of the modern independent watchmaking movement that is currently flourishing worldwide. It’s been owned by Bulgari for years, and thus wrapped up in the LVMH corporate structure, but earlier this year after a great deal of speculation it was confirmed that the brand would reappear with an assist from La Fabrique Du Temps, Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking arm. It would be a mistake to write La Fabrique Du Temps, or Louis Vuitton for that matter, off as part of a larger “fashion b...

Changing of the Guard: Bremont Celebrates the Coronation of King Charles III & New Leadership at The Wing Worn & Wound
Bremont Celebrates May 8, 2023

Changing of the Guard: Bremont Celebrates the Coronation of King Charles III & New Leadership at The Wing

There’s a certain level of homeland pride in every way that Bremont operates. It’s apparent in their designs and palpable throughout their entire company from top to bottom. The Giles brothers have made it their life’s mission to produce beautifully British-made mechanical watches and if there needs to be any more confirmation of how successfully that’s going, then let “The Wing”, Bremont’s vast campus and headquarters in Henley which has subsequently brought watchmaking back to U.K. shores, put any queries to bed. As Bremont ambassador and now friend of Worn & Wound, Alex Bescoby eloquently put it in a recent interview, “Bremont is all about beautifully putting together traditional and British design, and celebrating that.” Well, for the folks living across the pond, there’s lots to celebrate as this past weekend, in front of 2,200 ceremony attendees and millions watching around the world, King Charles III was crowned as Great Britain’s new monarch. It’s only fitting that Bremont, who already has an ongoing partnership with the Ministry of Defence (MoD) to honor His Majesty’s Armed Forces, has released two limited edition models that marks a moment in history with the coronation of His Majesty. The MBII King Charles III Limited Edition largely retains the familiar design cues of the Martin-Baker collection – dual crown configuration, internal rotating bezel, a distinct knurled barrel design and internal case reinforcements. As every other Bremo...

Jack Mason develops a new collection comprising a GMT and a diver Time+Tide
Rolex May 8, 2023

Jack Mason develops a new collection comprising a GMT and a diver

Some of the most iconic models in the history of horology became so because they offered something unique. A new case design or a new concept, that was then transferred to new types of watches. Take Rolex for example. The brand developed the Submariner and then adapted the case and dial design to make a … ContinuedThe post Jack Mason develops a new collection comprising a GMT and a diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Time+Tide welcomes microbrand powerhouse Baltic to our shop Time+Tide
Baltic May 8, 2023

Time+Tide welcomes microbrand powerhouse Baltic to our shop

Today we’re delighted to announce that the T+T shop is now stocking Baltic, the flagbearers of excellent, affordable design. The French brand lays claim to being the microbrand, launching just over five years ago on Kickstarter, and continuing on its upward trajectory ever since. Baltic’s most-loved designs will be hitting the shop right away, including the two … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide welcomes microbrand powerhouse Baltic to our shop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: The IWC Ingenieur 40 SJX Watches
IWC Ingenieur 40 One May 7, 2023

Up Close: The IWC Ingenieur 40

One of the most talked-about and contentious releases of the year, the IWC Ingenieur 40 is a reinterpretation of the vintage Ingenieur SL designed by Gérald Genta. By sticking closely to the design of the 1976 original – and thus catering the current fad for integrated-bracelet sports watches – IWC is positioning the Ingenieur as a key part of its line-up, despite several unsuccessful attempts to reboot the collection in recent years. Initial thoughts  With past revivals of the Ingenieur diverging further and further from the 1976 model in terms of styling, enthusiasts have been eagerly awaiting the return of the original design. And the recent popularity of integrated bracelets made such a comeback all the more likely. Now the Ingenieur has returned – in undoubtedly the correct guise. Though the design has been well received, there has been criticism of the movement and price. By staying faithful to the original design, the Ingenieur 40 gets it right. The construction shows attention to detail in the essential elements, including the patterned dial and bezel secured by polygonal screws, along with a slim case profile. These elements echo the vintage original, while still making it obvious the Ingenieur 40 is a new design. Despite the visual and tactile appeal, the Ingenieur 40 is burdened with significant drawbacks. The first is the cal. 32111, a movement found in entry-level models like Mark XX, which cost quite a bit less than the Ingenieur 40. Because the cal. ...

The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture Steel takes the value proposition a step further Time+Tide
Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture Steel May 6, 2023

The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture Steel takes the value proposition a step further

Frederique Constant follows up their precious metal Classic Tourbillon Manufacture W&W; debut with two steel models Each model is limited to 350 pieces in honor of the 35th anniversary of the brand High value proposition – in-house tourbillon watch priced at US$15,695 During Watches & Wonders, Frederique Constant’s hero novelty was a new more compact take … ContinuedThe post The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture Steel takes the value proposition a step further appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Chris W. Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko fan May 5, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Chris W.

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Chris W. shares a personal trio of watches that serve as foundation pieces in his own collection, representing a diverse cross section of watch making, and encompassing unique styles in the process. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  I own these watches as part of a 21 watch collection. While I’m a big Seiko and Grand Seiko fan with 7 (Grand-, King- and other) Seiko’s in the box, I do love my French, German and British watches too. I can never quite say what my favourite 3 piece collection would look like.  For his budget, on this rainy day, this is the set I’d choose to keep. Tomorrow, my answer might be different. Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Atlantik 36 – ~$2,500 I picked up this watch in 2017, and it has proven to be a true go anywhere, do everything watch. Stick it on a cordovan strap, and you can wear it with a suit because of it’s discrete 36x9x48mm dimensions. If you stick it on the included canvas strap, you can go snorkelling, hiking or biking with it because of the solid 200m water resistance.  The polished case will look great with a bit of wabi-sabi from wear and tear, and the movement is the first completely in house developed and produced Nomos caliber, at 3,2mm thick including the rotor.  The somewhat strict looking Bauhaus design is made much less stark because Nomos excels at little splashes of colour, whe...

Smiths’ Everest Adventure: The Other "Explorer" Watch That Made Mounta Teddy Baldassarre
May 5, 2023

Smiths’ Everest Adventure: The Other "Explorer" Watch That Made Mounta

The Smiths Watch Company traces its history all the way back to 1851, the year that its founder, Samuel Smith, Sr., opened his watch and clock shop on Newington Causeway in London. Like other horological concerns in the late 19th Century, the family firm, originally dubbed S. Smith & Sons, specialized in pocket watches. It was quite successful, eventually moving its headquarters to a larger venue on London’s bustling Strand and opening shops in the fashionable Piccadilly and Trafalgar Square marketplaces. By the early 20th Century, S. Smith & Sons had staked out a substantial spot in British watchmaking history, producing in 1900 the groundbreaking “mileometer,” a device that combined a speedometer and an odometer; and becoming a trusted purveyor of timepieces and other instruments to the Royal Family in 1904, when King Edward VII commissioned a speedometer from the firm for his personal Mercedes motorcar. It was the rise of the automobile, in fact, that brought Smiths much of its expansion in the coming decades. Another company, Smiths Motor Accessories, opened up in 1914, run by Samuel Smith Sr.’s grandson Allan Gordon Smith, which produced carburetors, speedometers, and other accessories for the growing automotive industry. With the onset of the First World War, the company also started making onboard instruments for aircraft and fuses for bombs.  The Smiths added another offshoot company, devoted to making English clocks, in 1931, and acquired, among other fi...

New Indiana Jones trailer shows Harrison Ford wearing a Hamilton for the saga-ending film Time+Tide
Hamilton May 5, 2023

New Indiana Jones trailer shows Harrison Ford wearing a Hamilton for the saga-ending film

If you could only watch movies from one series for the rest of your life, what would it be? Personally, due to the fact that the Marvel cinematic universe is far too expansive, the three I’d choose between are the Star Wars films, the Harry Potter films or the James Bond films. But were it … ContinuedThe post New Indiana Jones trailer shows Harrison Ford wearing a Hamilton for the saga-ending film appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch by Philippe Dufour SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch May 5, 2023

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch by Philippe Dufour

Arguably the master of movement decoration, Philippe Dufour is revered for the impeccable finishing of his wristwatches – along with a handful of pocket watches, including the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch that sold in 2021 at Philips for CHF2.33 million including fees. But the first timepieces Mr Dufour made never bore his name on the dial. They were a series of five grande sonnerie pocket watches created for Audemars Piguet (AP) that he began in the late 1970s and completed in 1988. The very first of the five, the Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch no. 1 – by Philippe Dufour for Audemars Piguet – will go under the hammer at Philips’ upcoming Geneva auction taking place on May 13 and 14, 2023. (Video courtesy of Phillips) Initial Thoughts Having slowly gone out of fashion starting in the early 2000s, pocket watches tend to go under the radar when set against comparable wristwatches. In 2021, Philippe Dufour’s own Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for more than double his grande sonnerie pocket watch – in the same auction. However, anyone who understands independent watchmaker and Mr Dufour’s work will appreciate the significance of this pocket watch. This not only predates the Philippe Dufour brand, but the series of five watches made for AP was the impetus for him to strike out on his own. Because of what he perceived as deeply disrespectful behaviour by AP executives, Mr Dufour vowed never again to make watches for others after completing the five watches for AP. ...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: James Harden gifts NBA MVP Joel Embiid engraved Rolex Day-Date Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date Back from Japan May 5, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: James Harden gifts NBA MVP Joel Embiid engraved Rolex Day-Date

Back from Japan and a much needed R&R; week on vacation in Aruba with my family, it is great to return to the Friday Wind Down saddle. Thanks for holding it down Borna! While in any given week there is a fair bit of watch news, this week has really been dominated by Rolex with watch spots … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: James Harden gifts NBA MVP Joel Embiid engraved Rolex Day-Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS ON: The Yema Urban Field combines a premium feel with vintage vibes Time+Tide
Yema May 5, 2023

HANDS ON: The Yema Urban Field combines a premium feel with vintage vibes

Although the French brand Yema have never stopped producing watches since their inception in 1948, their lapse into relative obscurity during the ‘80s-‘00s has to qualify them among the best brand revivals of the 21st century. Professional divers, racing chronographs, and even space-faring pilot pieces are classics of the Yema catalogue, but the Yema Urban … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Yema Urban Field combines a premium feel with vintage vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: Elgin Sportsman, Jeep Comanche LCD, and Full Kits Galore Worn & Wound
Hamilton Enicar May 4, 2023

eBay Finds: Elgin Sportsman, Jeep Comanche LCD, and Full Kits Galore

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Bucherer Archimedes Super Compressor Starting this week off with a killer vintage diver, a Bucherer Archimedes Super Compressor. This beauty is the classic 36mm dual crown type, with the same case style used by companies like Bulova, Hamilton, Enicar and Benrus to name a few. The Archimedes stands out from other Super Compressors with the bright orange dial. This example is in excellent condition with an unpolished case and flawless dial. The dual crowns are the oversized type, with the classic cross-hatched design on the ends. Seller states the watch runs well, but no movement picture. You really can’t go wrong with these EPSA cased Super Compressor divers, and they are only getting more desired by collectors and harder to find in good shape. View auction here. Vintage Accutron Navigator Here’s a rare and unusual piece, a vintage 1967 Accutron Navigator Mark 2 ships chronometer. These were used as extremely accurate time keeping devices on ships to aid in navigation. Usually these are high grade manual clocks, but Accutron dipped their toes in the water (see what I did there? ;-)) with their tuning fork movements. I read that this clock used three tuning fork movements mounted at...

Urwerk Takes the UR100V Back to Basics with New “Magic T” Worn & Wound
Urwerk Takes May 4, 2023

Urwerk Takes the UR100V Back to Basics with New “Magic T”

Urwerk released the UR100 concept to the world in late 2019 with a watch called SpaceTime.  The watch served as a new entry point to the brand, recalling the simplicity of their original 101 and 102 concepts, with an open view to their modern wandering hour carriage design. It was pure Urwerk, and it was also among their most wearable modern watches. The UR100V has matured over the years, with the addition of new materials, colors, and even strap options. It’s a watch that’s proven remarkably adept at expanding its personality in a variety of directions, from the Mayan style ‘Time and Culture’ to the other-worldly P.02 done with Collective Horology. At its core, though, the UR100 is a simple concept, and the latest addition to the collection leans into that simplicity.  The newest UR100V, dubbed the Magic T, gets a monochromatic treatment, presented in full bead blasted titanium from the case to the bracelet. The 3 dimensional dial adheres to the theme as well, with only sparse use of colors to aid in the legibility of telling the time (did I mention that this thing tells the time?). The Magic T is a distillation of the UR100 concept, a near bookend to the original SpaceTime, and an overall cleaner representation of the concept, which at its core, remains unchanged. Time is read via the hand rotating along the minute track at the bottom of the dial (if it can be called that?). The hand itself is attached to one of three hour carriages which house the rotating hou...

Vero Launches the Meridian, a Casual Weekend Watch with a Manually Wound Movement Worn & Wound
May 4, 2023

Vero Launches the Meridian, a Casual Weekend Watch with a Manually Wound Movement

One of the big hits of the recently completed Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco came from Vero, a brand we’ve been covering for years. The transformation that Vero has made as a company doesn’t get enough coverage. Longtime readers might remember the time we took a look at how Vero was manufacturing watches at their Oregon headquarters, but since that time, the brand has changed their strategy and found their groove with an entirely new aesthetic. In 2021, with the launch of the Open Water diver, Vero made a hard pivot toward outsourcing their manufacturing to trusted Swiss partners, and refocusing the brand on customer service (they now offer a ten year warranty) and shifting the design language into something a little bolder and more colorful. The Open Water and Workhorse Chrono have proven to be durable hits on the microbrand scene, each spawning multiple new references since they made their debuts, and now they’re joined by the Meridian, a handsome manually wound piece that is a completely Vero take on the classic field watch.    Vero characterizes the Meridian as a “weekend watch,” which is borne out in the casual color schemes of the two models that recently launched the collection. First up is the Rambler, a bright blue dial with a red and white outer track, and easy to read black Arabic numerals at each hour. We also have the Rally, which is something of an inversion of the Rambler with its cream colored dial and accents in the perimeter in blue and r...