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Ming Debuts their Fifth Generation Design Language with the 57.04 Iris Worn & Wound
Ming Aug 25, 2025

Ming Debuts their Fifth Generation Design Language with the 57.04 Iris

It comes up, somehow, in almost every article you read about Ming: they have an incredibly distinct design language all their own. How many times have you read something like, “you can spot a Ming from across the room!” I admit, we’re as guilty as anyone. But it’s undeniable that the look of these watches defines them, and that they’ve landed on something with that flying blade lug design that is both easily identifiable and well suited to building a supremely comfortable case. It’s something that’s always been there, but has slowly evolved over the course of Ming’s still relatively short history. Today, the brand announces the new 57.04 Iris, the first watch in what the brand terms as their fifth generation design. It’s at once both a radical departure from previous Ming designs, and very much related to all that’s come before.  The new 57.04 is influenced rather unapologetically by Art Deco design cues, particularly the dramatic stepped lugs, still with the same flared design. Ming says that the lugs make use of nine separate pieces in what has to be one of the most complex case designs the brand has attempted to date. The top of each step is polished and sides (which have very small surface areas by design) are brushed. It’s a bold design for sure, and makes an immediate impression, and strikes me as being quite a bit more ornate than the inherently minimalistic case designs Ming has produced in the past. Still, the shape is unmistakably Ming.  T...

Introducing – The Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase now in Blue Editions Monochrome
Union Glashütte Aug 25, 2025

Introducing – The Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase now in Blue Editions

The Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase has long been one of Union Glashütte’s signature watches, combining Saxon craftsmanship with the appeal of a complete calendar and lunar display. In 2023, the Belisar Chronograph line received a welcome refresh with sleeker proportions, more angular bezels, and a renewed emphasis on legibility. This year, the usually classic Belisar […]

First Look – The new Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24 Monochrome
Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series Aug 24, 2025

First Look – The new Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24

Headquartered in the historical centre of Delft, The Netherlands, Holthinrichs Watches, named after its founder Michiel Holthinrichs, is one of the rising stars of the indie watchmaking scene. The brand has a truly unique approach to design and manufacturing, combining advanced metal printing techniques (yes, 3D printed cases are THE signature feature there) with high-end […]

Looking At The Rolex Gifted To Sir Edmund Hillary After His Everest Ascent Fratello
Rolex Gifted Aug 24, 2025

Looking At The Rolex Gifted To Sir Edmund Hillary After His Everest Ascent

The ascent of Mt. Everest by Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953 is etched into Rolex folklore. British watch company Smiths was the official supplier of 15 watches to the British expedition involved in the 1953 ascent. It is highly likely that the Smiths watches, not Rolex Oyster Perpetuals, were worn at the […] Visit Looking At The Rolex Gifted To Sir Edmund Hillary After His Everest Ascent to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf Vs. Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” Fratello
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf Aug 24, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf Vs. Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25”

It’s Sunday morning, so fire up the engines and prepare for a nice weekend drive. The question is, what is the racing chronograph of choice for today? Two suggestions go head to head in this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown. Mike’s pick is the classic-looking TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf in titanium. This lightweight version […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf Vs. Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” to read the full article.

Back To Basics: Five Of The Best Practices For Watch Ownership Fratello
Aug 23, 2025

Back To Basics: Five Of The Best Practices For Watch Ownership

Welcome to another installment of Back To Basics, our series aimed at newcomers to our lovely shared hobby. This time, we’ll take a look at five of the best practices for watch ownership. This is how to treat your watches and the hobby itself to maximize joy and minimize stress. As always, this might all […] Visit Back To Basics: Five Of The Best Practices For Watch Ownership to read the full article.

Finding The Best Rolex Datejust Of All Time - Which One Gets Your Vote? Fratello
Rolex Datejust Aug 23, 2025

Finding The Best Rolex Datejust Of All Time - Which One Gets Your Vote?

The Rolex Datejust is arguably the most versatile and enduring watch in the Genevan brand’s lineup. This year marks the 80th anniversary of the model, so we decided to mark the occasion. Over the past few weeks, members of our editorial team have shared their favorite Datejust references. Now it’s time to gather them all […] Visit Finding The Best Rolex Datejust Of All Time - Which One Gets Your Vote? to read the full article.

The Best Solar Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 22, 2025

The Best Solar Watches

  Solar watches are an eco-friendly alternative to traditional quartz watches with lithium battery-powered movements. Watches with solar-powered movements still maintain the accuracy and reliability of quartz technology, which makes them much more precise than any mechanical watch. Here's a brief history of solar technology in watchmaking and a selection of notable solar watches on sale now. Solar Watch Technology - A Brief History In the late 1960s, the Swiss watch industry was on the precipice of a technical revolution that would ultimately threaten the very existence of traditional mechanical watchmaking while simultaneously ushering in the dawn of mass-produced electronic watches. By the 1970s, quartz movements had won out over a handful of other early technological approaches to producing electronic watches (you can delve a bit more into that history here), giving rise to the era now known known within the industry as the Quartz Crisis. Experiments with using solar power to charge watches, however, go all the way back to the '60s, to the development of the first solar-powered movement by American engineer Roger Riehl. This technology was introduced to the market in 1972, with the first prototype called the “Synchronar” and the first production piece, the Synchronar 2100, released later that same year.   Priced at nearly $500 (about $3,200 in today's money), the Synchronar 2100 was considered something of a luxury product and struggled to compete in...

King Seiko SPB389 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Aug 22, 2025

King Seiko SPB389 Review

Everyone knows about Seiko and Grand Seiko, but…what exactly is King Seiko? Well, King Seiko is one of those cult-classic throwbacks that dodges easy categorization or market segmentation. The 1960s elegance and sheer retro vibes exuded by this collection is charming and a little quirky in a world where big brother Grand Seiko has reached downright mainstream status. In 2021, the King Seiko KSK SJE083 resurrected the historic KSK model and the collection has slowly grown since then under the Seiko Luxe collection of higher-end offerings. Here we see the Seiko SPB389, which is a mid-century-inspired watch that will appeal to the kind of person who loves being early to a trend. Seiko Luxe Explained First off I wanted to address the Seiko Luxe collection, because I know not everyone is up to date with the tiers of Seiko. Where standard Seiko is your more classic, accessible fare, the Seiko Luxe collection is the higher-end series that consists of offerings like King Seiko as well as Presage watches with special touches like enamel dials and the more refined pieces in the Prospex collection. Seiko Luxe generally starts around the $750 mark and goes up to over $3,000, so the range is quite broad. Personally, the only Seiko watch I’ve ever purchased is from the Seiko Luxe collection (an enamel dial Presage I reviewed here) and it really is so much watch for the money. King Seiko SPB389 Case and Bracelet When King Seiko first returned to the scene a couple of years back, it w...

Louis Erard Introduces the Gravée Main, with a Fully Engraved Case Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Introduces Aug 22, 2025

Louis Erard Introduces the Gravée Main, with a Fully Engraved Case

Of all the artisanal specialities in watchmaking, case engraving has to be among the most obscure and unheralded. I think there are a few reasons for this. One, the dial is where the action is on most watches, and applying a time consuming artistic craft on the case might be seen by some watchmakers as a waste of valuable time. Another factor is that to a large extent, we’ve all been trained to appreciate a particular type of case finishing. We see crisp transitions between brushed and polished surfaces, and that registers as being of a certain level of quality that we expect in a luxury watch. If those elements aren’t there, even if they’re substituted by something that might be visually striking, our reptile brains feel like there’s something missing. The latest in Louis Erard’s ongoing Métiers d’Art series, however, is a good opportunity to appreciate complex case engraving in a new way.  The whole idea behind how Louis Erard approaches Métiers d’Art, and to a certain extent the brand’s focus more generally, is to make craft accessible. The new Gravée Main is perhaps their most ambitious attempt in this area to date. Virtually every steel surface (the case, bezel, lugs, crown, and buckle) is hand engraved. According to the brand, each watch takes upwards of 50 hours to engrave by hand, and only 99 will be made.  Engraving is one of those things that really comes alive when you look at it closely and imagine that painstaking work that went into creat...

TAG Heuer Carrera Date Twin Time Review: A Classic GMT For Life On The Move WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Date Twin Time Aug 22, 2025

TAG Heuer Carrera Date Twin Time Review: A Classic GMT For Life On The Move

In this review, I take a closer look at the new TAG Heuer Carrera Date Twin-Time, a watch that blends heritage with modern functionality. From its striking green dial to its versatile GMT design, this is a timepiece built for both everyday wear and global travel. What We Love The new Twin-Time design pays homage to the 1955 original while feeling distinctly modern. The green sunburst dial is stunning in person, offering both visual depth and excellent legibility for the GMT hand and time display. The H-link bracelet not only enhances the luxury aesthetic but also introduces an innovative, tool-free link removal system. What We Don’t The absence of Super-Luminova on the indices reduces nighttime readability. The bracelet lacks on-the-fly micro-adjustment, limiting quick comfort changes. The redesigned GMT hand, while modern, may not appeal to everyone’s taste. Overall Rating: 8.7 / 10 Value For Money: 8.75/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Introduced during this year’s Watches & Wonders is the revamped TAG Heuer Carrera three-hander collection. As you would have seen by now, a total of six new Carrera models were released, with the collection taking on the same silhouette as the older Carrera Day-Date with changes that make the timepiece modern and impactful. The New TAG Heuer Carrera Takes A Victory Lap When this collection was released, our very own Mario covered each model, dubbing the collection ‘Victory’ due to TAG Heuer’s upgrad...

Thirty Days with the Christopher Ward C12 Loco SJX Watches
Christopher Ward C12 Loco ‘Micro-brand’ watches Aug 22, 2025

Thirty Days with the Christopher Ward C12 Loco

‘Micro-brand’ watches are rarely about finishing or movement design. The business model employed by this segment of the industry typically involves off-the-shelf movements combined with made-to-order cases and dials; this is how Christopher Ward (CW) got started. But having merged with its movement supplier a decade ago, the brand has become more ambitious, first with the striking Bel Canto and again with the C12 Loco, which reimagines the Valjoux cal. 7750 as a budget-priced mechanical sculpture inside a sporty steel case. Architectural watchmaking is not new, but it is new at the price point targeted by CW, which recently moved into larger premises in Maidenhead about 30 minutes west of London. Having spent a month with the Loco, it’s worth looking at what they did, and how. Initial thoughts I find architectural watchmaking inherently appealing, and appreciate it when watchmakers and designers work in tandem to elevate mechanical components into miniature works of art. It can come across as gimmicky, but when done well it results in an enthralling and educational wearing experience. Given the steep development costs, this type watchmaking has long been the exclusive domain of high end brands like MB&F; and Ulysse Nardin. But CW has been moving in this direction since the launch of the Bel Canto, and the Loco, despite its relative simplicity, is a worthy follow-up to its striking sibling. Sitting within the Twelve collection, CW’s take on the integrated bracelet sp...

Paulin Introduces the Mara, their First Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Aug 21, 2025

Paulin Introduces the Mara, their First Dive Watch

Earlier this year at the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, I heard some buzz that a member of the Paulin team was wearing the watch they’d be debuting at the end of the summer, and that it was a diver. At the time, it seemed almost illogical. Paulin, in my mind, is the definition of a design oriented brand. I own a Paulin Modul, and love the visual impression of the case and dial, and the ingenuity behind the concept of a case built from the ground up to enable the swapping of movements. Dive watches have been made and remade over and over again, and I tend to have the feeling that there’s nothing new under the sun when it comes to tool oriented watches aimed at the enthusiast. Obviously I should have had a little more confidence in Paulin to subvert expectations and create something with their own unique stamp on it.  The Mara, the brand’s new diver, is finally unveiled to the public today, and it still impresses me just as much at launch as it did when I got a short sneak peek in San Francisco. What we have here is a 300 meter diver in stainless steel measuring 39.7mm in diameter. The case is styled as a more robust version of the Modul, and indeed it does have similar lines, particularly in the way the lugs angle inwards toward the center of the case if you view the watch from the front. Everything is just a little more rounded, though, which feels like a small tribute to traditional dive watch design.  The most impressive design cue here in my opinion however...

What Is A Tourbillon? Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 21, 2025

What Is A Tourbillon?

For many watch collectors, acquiring one's first tourbillon watch is a Holy Grail, a rite of passage into the upper echelons of horological connoisseurship. If you're new to the watch appreciation game, however, you may be wondering what all the fuss is about. What is so special about tourbillon watches, anyway, and what makes them so desirable to so many while still being so prohibitively expensive for most? The short answer is that a tourbillon is, in this day and age, less of a necessity and more of a badge of historical high-watchmaking excellence. For a more detailed explanation, read on.  The First Tourbillons and Early Innovations The inventor of the tourbillon is a name that is likely familiar to watch connoisseurs. Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823), a native of Switzerland who plied his trade as a watchmaker in Paris, was one of horology’s most significant historical figures, among whose many innovations was the first self-winding movement, the first repeater movement with a gong, one of the earliest constant-force escapements, and the device that he famously patented in 1801, the so-called tourbillon escapement.  While the tourbillon is today considered by many to be a complication, like a chronograph or calendar mechanism, its original purpose was a fully practical one, to compensate for the ill effects of gravity on the movement of a pocket watch and thus improve its long-term accuracy. Remember, in Breguet’s time, watches were not worn on wrists, where ...

Retro Watches Are Here To Stay For Generations To Come: Here’s Why Fratello
Aug 21, 2025

Retro Watches Are Here To Stay For Generations To Come: Here’s Why

There’s a strong demand for products and experiences from the past. Nostalgia is a yearning for the good ol’ days. The word “nostalgia” is derived from the Greek words nostos (return) and algos (pain). That “pain” is felt today by practically all, from the baby boomers, born between 1946 and 1964, to Generation Alpha, those […] Visit Retro Watches Are Here To Stay For Generations To Come: Here’s Why to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: The Experience of Visiting A Swiss Watch Manufacture Fratello
Aug 21, 2025

Fratello Talks: The Experience of Visiting A Swiss Watch Manufacture

Have you ever wanted to know what it’s like to enter the space where watches are made? These very real places remain an abstract thought to most people, as passionate as they may be about the time-telling objects on their wrists. You can read about them, see images and video, and hear all about them, […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Experience of Visiting A Swiss Watch Manufacture to read the full article.