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Pilot Watch

The aviation tool-watch genre. Cartier Santos (1904), the WWII B-Uhr, the French Type 20 flyback, the RAF Mark XI, the Breitling Navitimer.

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Rado Did you know May 18, 2024

Graduation Gift Guide: Remembering Their Big Day with Rado

Did you know that Rado was one of the first watch brands to use high-tech ceramics in their timepieces?  In 1986, they launched the Integral, a style icon, which combined sapphire and ceramics. The goal was to create a watch that could withstand the rigors of everyday life and come out unscathed. In the decades that follow, many other brands have adopted this technology, yet Rado remains at the forefront. As the wheels of scholarship and innovation keep on turning, an education, just like high-tech ceramics, can protect and prepare for all of life’s upcoming challenges. In honor of graduation, in this gift guide we have selected 7 Rado watches that would make excellent companions as your graduate enters life’s next chapter. The post Graduation Gift Guide: Remembering Their Big Day with Rado appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 18, 2024

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong

With the Geneva auctions just concluded, the sale season moves to Hong Kong, where Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII happens over two days on May 24 and 25. The sentiment evident in Geneva will likely continue in Hong Kong as well, which might mean more value buys and in a handful of instances, outright bargains. We round up some of the highlights of independent watchmaking in the sale, ranging from prime examples that are more affordable than before, like a pair of F.P. Journe with brass movements, to more esoteric watches like an IWC decorated by Jochen Benzinger to a Paul Gerber retrograde seconds with double rotors. The Hong Kong auction takes place on May 24 (lots 801-934) and May 25 (lots 935-1083), and the online catalogue is here. When brass is more valuable than gold 865 – F.P. Journe Résonance, brass movement This is a fine example of perhaps the quintessential F.P. Journe – a Resonance from 2002 with a platinum case, white gold dial, and brass movement. It is not the rarest variant of the model, which fortunately makes it relatively more affordable. Even now, over 20 years since the original Resonance was introduced, I am not entirely sure the early examples are mechanically perfect going by personal experience. But they are undoubtedly important watches from a significant brand. Watches from this period have an intrinsic appeal that the more polished later watches lack. Certainly less refined than the subsequent watches with gold movements, e...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Look Inside Long Pond Studio, Conan O’Brien Hits His Stride, and the first Dune: Prophecy Trailer Worn & Wound
May 18, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Look Inside Long Pond Studio, Conan O’Brien Hits His Stride, and the first Dune: Prophecy Trailer

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. This week’s Watches, Stories and Gear is sponsored by Mudita. Check out the new Mudita Element and a link to their Kickstarter below. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com Brett F. Braley-Palko’s First Novel, Arthur We’re incredibly excited to feature our very own contributor, Brett Braley, in this week’s Watches, Stories, & Gear column. Brett has written his first novel, Arthur, and it was released just yesterday by the Thane and Prose imprint. Set in midcentury London, the comic novel’s plot involves the titular character and a pair of accomplices as they plot to save his dogs from certain eviction. To know Brett is to know his wry sense of humor, so if even a small amount is on display in Arthur, it’s sure to be worth a read if you’ve enjoyed his work here on Worn & Wound. You can order a copy of Arthur right here.  Dune’s Prequel TV Show is Coming  The first trailer for the highly anticipated Dune prequel series premiered this week, and judging from a first look, it seems like the small screen version might actually somewhat match the scope of the epic films. Dune: Prophecy is set 10,000 years before...

Pass It On - The Heirloom Quality Of Properly Made Watches Fratello
Patek Philippe May 18, 2024

Pass It On - The Heirloom Quality Of Properly Made Watches

We’ve all heard it: “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.” This advertising slogan became almost as iconic as the watches themselves. That’s understandable, too, considering how it tugs at the heartstrings and strongly implies superior quality. But what charges a watch with heirloom quality? And […] Visit Pass It On - The Heirloom Quality Of Properly Made Watches to read the full article.

New To The Shop: Gerber Gear Worn & Wound
Casio n when we have May 17, 2024

New To The Shop: Gerber Gear

Our readers know that Worn & Wound is all about celebrating the spirit of adventure and enthusiasm that comes from the appreciation of quality products and the communities around them. This includes watches, of course, and also gear. Our love for the heritage, craftsmanship, and ownership experience of these watches and tools means we carefully curate our selection in the Windup Watch Shop. We don’t just stand by what we carry; they are things we would be thrilled to own and enjoy ourselves. It’s a special occasion when we have the privilege of introducing a new brand to the Shop, and today we get to do just that. The brand? Gerber Gear. And the products? Simply fantastic. Our readers know that Worn & Wound is all about celebrating the spirit of adventure and enthusiasm that comes from the appreciation of quality products and the communities around them. This includes watches, of course, and also gear. Our love for the heritage, craftsmanship, and ownership experience of these watches and tools means we carefully curate our selection in the Windup Watch Shop. We don’t just stand by what we carry; they are things we would be thrilled to own and enjoy ourselves. It’s a special occasion when we have the privilege of introducing a new brand to the Shop, and today we get to do just that. The brand? Gerber Gear. And the products? Simply fantastic. The post New To The Shop: Gerber Gear appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Seiko H601-8020: The Arnie’s Long-Lost Little Brother Worn & Wound
Seiko H601-8020 May 17, 2024

The Seiko H601-8020: The Arnie’s Long-Lost Little Brother

A wristwatch synonymous with biceps and AR-15s, Seiko’s H558-5009 “Arnie” continues to maintain its popularity in the watch collecting community today. Aside from its screen time in several Arnold Schwarzenegger films, its hefty 46mm case and rather sophisticated analogue-digital movement make the Arnie a unique and desirable timepiece. Other variations of the Arnie include the “Upside Down Arnie” H601-5480 and “Baby Arnie” H556-5029, both of which have their own following and are collectible in their own right. Unfortunately, their typically high price tags in today’s market make these variants fairly unobtainable to the everyday hobbyist looking for a fun weekend watch. However, the Seiko Sports line’s 1980s catalog is far more diverse than one might imagine, and within it exists the perfect alternative to the bulky Arnie and its cousins.  The H601-8020’s Inception and Design While Seiko’s history is well documented by the company and its dedicated fanbase, little information exists regarding the brand’s Sports SQ line. Their initial attempt at durable wristwatches came by way of the Seiko 5 line––starting in 1963 with the Sportsmatic 5––but the roots of SQ and Sports branding is a little less clear. Focusing only on the US market, it can be assumed SQ began appearing on dials somewhere in the mid 1970s and the Sports moniker (in this specific use) shortly after in the early 1980s. Of course, there are several variations of “sports” u...

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Spring 2024 Part II SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie ref 6301A May 17, 2024

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Spring 2024 Part II

The spring auction season in Geneva started dramatically enough with a cyberattack at Christie’s that took down its website and app. Only Watch went ahead as scheduled, however, and raised over CHF28.3 million, with most of that coming from the Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301A that sold for CHF15.7 million. What transpired at Only Watch also played out in the subsequent auctions over the weekend. The live sales at the four auction houses, Antiquorum, Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s, sold almost CHF85 million of watches, including fees (excluding Only Watch). This compared to over well CHF110 million for Geneva’s fall season last year. Although the sale season six months ago was buoyed by an extra live auction at Christie’s (that was subject of much chatter), the diminished total for this season reflects the state of the market. The waning sentiment was palpable in all the salerooms. That said, the auctions did throw up a handful of grand surprises, including CHF3.13 million for the Patek Philippe ref. 605 HU world time pocket watch with cloisonné enamel dial at Antiquorum, and CHF1.16 million for the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I at Phillips. Christie’s sold the most expensive wristwatch this season with CHF2.47 million for a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 “pink on pink” (above), though Antiquorum claimed the title for most valuable timepiece with its ref. 605 HU pocket watch. Image – Christie’s The good and great indies One of the ...

Introducing: The Updated H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green And Purple Haze Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Centre May 17, 2024

Introducing: The Updated H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green And Purple Haze

Four years ago, H. Moser & Cie. gave the watch world the Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green. The watch became a fan favorite and earned the nickname “Green Dragon.” Since 2024 is the Year of the Dragon in Chinese astrology, the return of the “Green Dragon” is hardly a surprise. The fact that the illustrious […] Visit Introducing: The Updated H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green And Purple Haze to read the full article.

When Vintage Meets Modern | The Collector’s Perspective with Omar Traboulsi (@thewrongwrist) Revolution
May 17, 2024

When Vintage Meets Modern | The Collector’s Perspective with Omar Traboulsi (@thewrongwrist)

In this episode of The Collector’s Perspective, Constant sits down with Omar Traboulsi, known for his Instagram handle @thewrongwrist. For the first time ever, we’re featuring a double interview format: Omar interviews Constant about his watch collection, and Constant interviews Omar about his own. Join us as two watch collectors come together, blending vintage and […]

REVIEW: Hands On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip WatchAdvice
Christopher Ward Baltic Formex May 17, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip

In the early 2020s, everything was shut down, and the watch industry was beginning to stagnate. However, one man decided to make the most of it and designed a watch – inadvertently helping facilitate the ‘Rise of the Microbrand.’ But do we believe the hype? Let’s find out! What We Like: A non-serious yet refined design Remarkable build quality for the price point Comfortable and well-made strap with plenty of adjustment What We Don’t: Insufficient lume Crown and pushers are extremely fiddly to use Low power reserve Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 7/10 The 2020s post-pandemic watch industry has been coined by some to be the ‘Rise of the Microbrand.’ for those unfamiliar with the term, a microbrand is a watch brand, usually independently owned and run by a small team – Essentially a small business or a start-up, in normal terms. What the ‘Rise of the Microbrand’ indicates is the massive resurgence of interest in said start-ups, which in turn has been a contributing factor to saving modern horology as we know it. That might sound like hyperbole to you, but I don’t say it lightly – Microbrands like Christopher Ward, Baltic, Formex and Farer have grown to the point where they now challenge household names. Every day, promising young microbrands such as HZ Watches also come out of the woodwork, transforming the industry in small but significant ways. We even got the chance to look at a HZ wat...

HYT Reinvents Itself with the T1 Collection Worn & Wound
HYT May 16, 2024

HYT Reinvents Itself with the T1 Collection

It’s hard to relaunch a brand. We’ve seen it over and over in the watch industry: brands, in an attempt to reinvigorate themselves, gain more traction in the market, and adapt to changing times, will sometimes make a decision to completely rethink their philosophy, aesthetic, and core models. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t, and there are varying levels of intensity in how fully relaunched a brand will actually go. Sometimes the shift is drastic, with new logos, new ideas, new price points, and completely new watches. And sometimes it’s more subtle, representing a small but noticeable and important tweak that fundamentally changes something about the presentation. HYT, a high end Swiss brand that has been through its fair share of tumult recently, debuted a new collection recently that we got a chance to look at during Watches & Wonders week, and it struck me as one of the smartest recalibrations we’ve seen from a brand in a long time.  If you know HYT at all, you know them for their unique time telling system that involves moving liquid around the dial through a pair of bellows that expand and contract throughout the day. There is quite literally nothing else like it on the market, and the watches have always had a half futuristic, half steam-punk vibe to them. There is real horological ingenuity at the heart of HYT, but the watches, in the past, have often been dominated by literally showing you the mechanism in a way that was, to put it bluntly, a bi...

Are Timex Watches Good? All You Need to Know About the Quintessential Teddy Baldassarre
Timex May 16, 2024

Are Timex Watches Good? All You Need to Know About the Quintessential

For many watch enthusiasts, a Timex watch is the gateway drug for a lifetime of timepiece obsession - understated in presentation, stylish in execution, affordable in price and found just about everywhere. And what Timex may lack in prestige and collectibility, especially when stacked up against industry titans from Switzerland, it makes up for in the key role it has played in "democratizing" timekeeping and for its undeniable influence on Americana and popular culture. How much do you really know about Timex? Read on for a brief but detailed historical perspective, followed by a showcase of the most noteworthy Timex watches on the market now. Waterbury Clock Company Factory  From its earliest days, the company now known as Timex was dedicated to making timekeepers that were both reliable and affordable to the masses. Based in Waterbury, Connecticut, and originally a division of brass manufacturer Benedict & Burnham, the Waterbury Clock Company opened its doors in 1854, specializing in the mass production of clocks with gears and wheels made of brass. By 1857, when it was incorporated as an independent business, Waterbury Clock Company was churning out millions of clocks, all priced lower than their European competitors, with parts sourced from manufacturers in Connecticut’s Naugatuck Valley region, which became known at the time as the “Switzerland of America;” Waterbury, the largest city in the region, still carries the nickname “Brass City.” The manufacturi...

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Worn & Wound
May 16, 2024

[Video] Windup Meet & Greet: Paulin is a Brand Built for the Design-Minded

While at the recent 2024 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, we had the chance to spend some time with fine folks at Paulin, a watch brand out of Glasgow, UK. Their booth was a hit with Windup attendees and they made the fair the launch moment for their new collaboration with the type design house OH no. Check out this Windup Meet & Greet video to learn more. The post [Video] Windup Meet & Greet: Paulin is a Brand Built for the Design-Minded appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Zodiac Partners with RedBar for a New, Glowing Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Zodiac Partners May 16, 2024

Zodiac Partners with RedBar for a New, Glowing Limited Edition

The latest limited edition from RedBar, the global network of watch meetup groups, is a nearly radioactive release made in partnership with Zodiac. It’s a subtle nod to a piece of Zodiac history that is not particularly well known while simultaneously paying proper respect to RedBar itself, all in the familiar trappings of a Super Sea Wolf diver. And, yes, the whole thing glows, and quite impressively.  Officially unveiled last night at a release party in New York, the Zodiac x RedBar Super Sea Wolf Pro Diver takes the brand’s most professional, 300 meter water resistant and ISO certified diver and effectively turns it into the type of brightly glowing orb many of us would have been obsessed with as children and still get pretty excited about today. Lume dials, when done well, have a pretty fun charm to them. There’s just something about seeing a larger than normal concentration of this stuff activated in a dark room. And the lume on this new collaboration is truly impressive, and that’s coming from someone who is on the record as not being a hardcore lume guy (I don’t even travel with a little UV light).  Like any good execution of a full lume dial, we have multiple colors of lume at work for contrast in both well lit situations and total darkness. The dial itself appears as a pale shade of green in the light, and glows an electric blue/green when charged. The hour markers, hands, and bezel hash marks are white in the daylight, and glow bright green. Important...

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grand Complication with Double Split-Chronographs Ref. 767 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grand Complication May 16, 2024

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grand Complication with Double Split-Chronographs Ref. 767

One of the most fascinating timepieces in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction is the Patek Philippe grand complication pocket watch ref. 767. Made in 1950 and sold in 1952, this one-of-a-kind pocket watch boasts a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and double split-seconds chronograph. More accurately, it is a mono-pusher, double split-seconds, or even triple-split seconds. This ref. 767 features not two, but three, chronograph seconds hands. As a result, it can simultaneously measure three elapsed times of up to one minute. The complication is possibly unique amongst Patek Philippe watches. A historically significant watch in itself, this ref. 767 also has notable provenance: it once belonged to Seth Atwood, the American industrialist who founded the now-closed Time Museum. According to Philips, this ref. 767 was Atwood’s everyday watch, not surprising since he was a legendary collector of his day with a collection that included the Patek Philippe Graves Supercomplication and the Duc d’Orléans Breguet Sympathique. Three seconds hands, two in blued steel and one in gold Initial thoughts I’ve been impressed by many pocket watches – some that come to include a Patek Philippe observatory tourbillon and the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie – but I’ve rarely been surprised. This ref. 767 was, however, entirely unexpected. When it was first described to me, I was confused and immediately thought of the Lange Double Split. But as it turns out, this is entirely d...

Orient Introduces the Bambino 38 Small Seconds SJX Watches
Seiko 5 May 16, 2024

Orient Introduces the Bambino 38 Small Seconds

A budget-friendly dress watch, the Orient Bambino is robust and usually priced well below US$300, making it a good option for the entry-level or budget-minded watch enthusiast. Now, the Japanese watch brand added the Bambino 38 “Small Seconds” to the range. Offered in steel or a gold-plated finish, the new Bambino combines a compact case with a retro-style dial featuring a sub-seconds at six and Roman numerals.  Initial thoughts The Bambino in its many variants is a compelling value proposition, marrying good quality with an attractive design. It’s the Orient equivalent of the Seiko 5. The model’s past designs have been a mixed bag, while the new Small Seconds is a more cohesive design.  The latest iterations, particularly the silver dial, evoke 1930s watches with the railroad minute track and alternating baton-and-Roman markers. However, as is sometimes the case with vintage-inspired designs, this would benefit from revamping of the date, which is practical but gets in the way of the design. Aside from the cosmetic enhancements, the Bambino 38 Small Seconds retains the same in-house calibre as its predecessors, a no-frills movement that isn’t pretty but adequate given the model’s affordability. Retailing for US$344 for the steel models and a $24 hike for the gold-plated version, these remain commendable value propositions. A vintage-inspired dress watch The latest addition to the Bambino collection incorporates many elements from the existing models. It inhe...

Entering The Space Race: The Venezianico Bucintoro 1969 Limited Edition Fratello
Venezianico Bucintoro 1969 Limited Edition May 16, 2024

Entering The Space Race: The Venezianico Bucintoro 1969 Limited Edition

Today’s Venezianico Bucintoro 1969 is an example of a watch that has already come and gone. However, as space fans, we wanted to share it with you because it may have rocketed past your orbit. This was a surprising one when it hit my mailbox for many reasons that we will soon see. Let’s take […] Visit Entering The Space Race: The Venezianico Bucintoro 1969 Limited Edition to read the full article.

First Look – The New Generation of H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green & Purple Haze Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Centre May 15, 2024

First Look – The New Generation of H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green & Purple Haze

Moser’s Streamliner collection, a luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet, made a resounding entry in 2020 with a Flyback Chronograph. Unlike many luxury sports watches on the market, which vie for attention with their formulaic solutions, Moser’s design was fresh, verging on sensual thanks to its sleek, aerodynamic personality. A few months later, Moser unveiled […]

Hands-On With The Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition - Powered By An In-House Micro-Rotor Movement Fratello
Yema May 15, 2024

Hands-On With The Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition - Powered By An In-House Micro-Rotor Movement

It’s been a little over a year since Yema introduced the current version of the Navygraf. The brand’s Navygraf II from the late ’70s inspired the design of the watch. I had a chance to go hands-on with the Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT last year, and I liked it. The updated style and the great […] Visit Hands-On With The Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition - Powered By An In-House Micro-Rotor Movement to read the full article.