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Results for Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.
Hands-On: Renaud Tixier Introduces the Monday Organica by Oliver Vaucher, a Visually Stunning Solution to a Horological Problem Worn & Wound
Sep 5, 2025

Hands-On: Renaud Tixier Introduces the Monday Organica by Oliver Vaucher, a Visually Stunning Solution to a Horological Problem

Our first meeting at thai year’s Geneva Watch Days might turn out to be one of the best. Renaud Tixier launched during Watches & Wonders week of 2024 with a bold idea: seven revolutionary horological creations, released in a series of watches that will take nearly two decades to complete. Their first watch, the Monday (guess what the others will be called) is an attempt to solve the problem of the micro-rotor. While these small, often heavy rotors are wonderful for creating automatic watches that are nearly as thin as manually wound watches (and for showing off elaborate movement decoration) they are inherently inefficient. The Monday seeks to solve that problem with a completely new horological invention.  The Renaud of Renaud Tixier is Dominique Renaud, the legendary watchmaker who was one half of the famed Renaud & Papi firm, who carved out a niche for themselves in the 1980s and 90s by creating ultra high end complications for the most prestigious brands. Renaud Tixier works along similar lines, but of course is a brand unto itself, and Renaud seems free to pursue whatever horological problem solving might be of interest to him. These watches, while incredibly beautiful, are ultimately for the hardcore movement nerds among us.  The innovation of this first Renaud Tixier caliber is in the behavior of the micro-rotor. The brand refers to it as “the Dancer” because of the way the mechanism seems to dance at even the slightest jostle. Renaud Tixier’s micro-rotor ...

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Christopher Ward Bel Canto Review Teddy Baldassarre
Christopher Ward Sep 5, 2025

Christopher Ward Bel Canto Review

London-based watchmaker Christopher Ward has achieved the impossible in its relatively short number of years in the watch game, catapulting from if you know, you-know microbrand to one of the most continuously successful indie watch brands on the market. Its founding principles remain largely unchanged, though its scale has grown in the 24 years since its founding: make high-quality watches while cutting what could be called the luxury tax in the industry with a direct-to-consumer model. But there is one distinct product that put the brand on the map more than any other, and that was the introduction of its own chiming watch at an unheard-of price point, the Christopher Ward Bel Canto. As you might have already guessed by the article title, today, we’re taking a microscopic view of the C1 Bel Canto, exploring what has made the watch such a crowd-favorite, and how it holds up today, four years after its initial release.  Christopher Ward Bel Canto History As always, let us begin our horological journey with a history primer on Christopher Ward’s pathway to contemporary success. Luckily for you (and your dear writer), the brand doesn’t have as sweeping a history as many of the centuries-old watchmakers out there, so we can really dive into the microscopic view here. Christopher Ward, whom I would bestow the title of reigning King of Indie Watch Brands, has one of the scrappiest origin stories in the watch world. Founded in 2004 by the trio of Mike France, Peter Ellis,...

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Introducing – The Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter Mission Control Monochrome
Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter Sep 5, 2025

Introducing – The Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter Mission Control

In 2014, Oris unveiled the ProPilot Altimeter, a unique wristwatch that combined an automatic Swiss-made calibre with a mechanical altimeter. Following an update in 2023, that singular idea is revisited this year in collaboration with Bamford Watch Department, bringing fresh design and high-tech case construction to the ProPilot Altimeter. The result is the Oris x […]

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Introducing – The New Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Black Onyx and Burgundy Monochrome
Louis Vuitton s La Fabrique du Sep 5, 2025

Introducing – The New Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Black Onyx and Burgundy

Regarded as the most influential 20th-century watch designer and a key figure in the revival of mechanical watchmaking, Gérald Genta (1931-2011) is the name behind countless icons that still hold sway today. In 2023, Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) haute horlogerie division announced the return of Gérald Genta as a standalone brand. Overseen […]

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CIGA Design Introduces The Remarkable Moon Walker Fratello
Sep 5, 2025

CIGA Design Introduces The Remarkable Moon Walker

Unless you have lived under a rock for four years, you have probably seen and read about the CIGA Design Blue Planet. The distinctive take on a modern watch garnered excitement from watch fans worldwide and won a GPHG award in 2021. We have seen multiple versions of CIGA Design’s remarkable titanium and stainless steel […] Visit CIGA Design Introduces The Remarkable Moon Walker to read the full article.

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Behrens Teams up With Vianney Halter SJX Watches
Behrens Teams up Sep 4, 2025

Behrens Teams up With Vianney Halter

Behrens teams up with Vianney Halter for the bold, electric meter-inspired KWH Watch, in white or rose gold. A unit of measurement for electricity, KWH is short for “kilowatt-hour” and refers to the electric meter inspiration for the design. The extremely dense movement combines the brand’s chain-driven hour display with rotating minute and power reserve cylinders, and a surprise on the back. It also represents a new frontier for the Chinese brand, as its most expensive offering yet. Initial Thoughts While Behrens’ watches do not always appeal to me aesthetically, I think the brand is an ideal champion for Chinese watchmaking. Unlike some brands marketing Chinese-built watches to global enthusiasts, Behrens is Chinese owned and operated. The brand’s founder, Lin Bingqiang, cut his teeth making parts and custom modules in Shenzhen for brands down in Hong Kong before starting Behrens in 2012. An exploded view of the 870 part movement. Many Chinese manufacturers excel at the engineering and manufacturing side, but have weak soft skills and lack vision. Behrens is strong on all fronts, and this is the brand’s most ambitious, and expensive, project yet. The brand may be over-reliant on computer-generated imagery, but I can confirm these watches are real, functional, and doing the rounds at Geneva Watch Week. Case On the heels of a collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin, Vianney Halter’s partnership is now with Behrens. This comes only days after Mr Halter’s coll...

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H. Moser & Cie. has a New Take on the Wandering Hours SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie has Sep 4, 2025

H. Moser & Cie. has a New Take on the Wandering Hours

Schaffhausen-based H. Moser & Cie. returns to a complication it once offered with the Pioneer Flying Hours, a new take on the wandering hours. The watch indicates the minutes on a central ring, while the hours seemingly jump from one window to the other. With this intriguing new display, the Flying Hours might just be being one of the most interesting jumping hours on the market.  Initial thoughts The Pioneer Flying Hours is not Moser’s first attempt at the wandering hours: the Endeavour Flying Hours was launched some seven years ago and an update on the historical complication. With new Pioneer, however, Moser manages to capture the mystique of both early wandering hours and mysterious clocks with its darting, wandering display. It is a tidy and admittedly novel reinterpretation of the wandering hours, which will surely appeal to collectors. There is something poetic about the minutes scale moving continuously across shuttered apertures, its sweep much like a bridge between points in time, here represented spatially. The combination of the sporty and large Pioneer case is also odd with the wandering hours, historically a complication associated with more formal, slim cases. At almost 43 mm, the case is large even for a sports watch. And to nitpick: if there is anything objectionable from the get-go, that is the name. Strictly speaking, “Flying hours” describes a revolving platform that is only supported from below - like a flying tourbillon. Here the hour disks a...

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Hands-On: Behrens and Vianney Halter Collaborate on the Impressive Master Collection “KWH” Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Behrens Sep 4, 2025

Hands-On: Behrens and Vianney Halter Collaborate on the Impressive Master Collection “KWH” Limited Edition

Vianney Halter, the legendary independent watchmaker, has collaborated with Behrens, the Chinese indie that over the last few years has gradually upped the ante in terms of their watchmaking and their own ambitions in the international watch industry. The new watch, the Behrens Master Collection “KWH” Limited Edition, is sure to be one of the most talked about watches of Geneva Watch Days 2025, and should cement Behrens as a real player in the independent watch scene, while reintroducing Halter to a new generation of enthusiasts.  Collaborations within the indie watch world are frequent, so it’s worth spending a moment to contextualize the importance of Vianney Halter working with Behrens on this watch in particular. Halter is considered by many to be on the proverbial Mt. Rushmore of indie watchmakers who set the stage for the modern avant-garde watchmaking moment that we’re in the midst of. His Antiqua, a truly radical design upon its release, is still one of the most influential watches of its era, or any other. That he’s chosen to not just lend his name to a Behrens release but actually create an all new caliber for it feels like the strongest possible endorsement, and a signal that he and the young Chinese brand share a certain watchmaking philosophy.  The chief aesthetic inspiration behind the new piece is the square shape of antique electricity meters and the concept of “pixel nostalgia” (think video games like Snake and Tetris and you get the idea)....

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First Look – The New and Unexpected TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer Since Sep 4, 2025

First Look – The New and Unexpected TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer

Since its launch in 1963, the TAG Heuer Carrera has been synonymous with speed, clarity, and performance on the racetrack. Jack Heuer designed it as a driver’s chronograph, stripped down to essentials with maximum legibility. Yet throughout its long life, the Carrera has never been a one-dimensional racetrack watch; it has adapted to aviation and yachting, and […]

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First Look – The New Bulgari Bronzo GMT and Bronzo Chronograph (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Bulgari Bronzo GMT Sep 4, 2025

First Look – The New Bulgari Bronzo GMT and Bronzo Chronograph (Incl. Video)

Bulgari’s Aluminium collection erupted on the scene in 1998. Fusing design elements from earlier models like the 1975 Bvlgari Bvlgari with the twice-emblazoned brand name on the gold bezel, the slick Aluminium with its bold mix of lightweight aluminium and rubber accents was a runaway success. Making its much-awaited comeback in 2020 during Geneva Watch […]

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Introducing – The Bold New Oris Big Crown Calibre 113 with Business Calendar Monochrome
Citizen s” Sep 4, 2025

Introducing – The Bold New Oris Big Crown Calibre 113 with Business Calendar

Oris has long defined itself as a maker of mechanical watches for “today’s world citizens”, with a clear commitment to function, value, robust engineering, supported by original looks. The new Big Crown Calibre 113 extends that philosophy by combining the brand’s historic pilot’s watch design with one of its most advanced hand-wound movements. Initially introduced […]

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Bringing Out The Popcorn With The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase Fratello
Sep 4, 2025

Bringing Out The Popcorn With The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase

I had to look twice at this new MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold edition, but it’s a new iteration of the watch introduced last month. In August, for the Sturgeon Moon, the MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold had a net-like design on the gold moon disc. This month, it’ll be a Corn Moon […] Visit Bringing Out The Popcorn With The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase to read the full article.

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First Look – The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM, A 1960s Design Icon Reimagined Monochrome
Zenith Defy Chronograph USM Sep 4, 2025

First Look – The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM, A 1960s Design Icon Reimagined

The year 1969 is etched in Zenith’s history as the birth of El Primero, the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph calibre. It was also the debut year of the Defy, a rugged sports watch nicknamed the “vault” for its robust construction and avant-garde angular design. Over the past few years, Zenith has revisited these late-1960s […]

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In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud Tests the Limits of ‘Hand Made’ SJX Watches
Chopard Sep 4, 2025

In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud Tests the Limits of ‘Hand Made’

Few brands approach marine chronometer-style wristwatches with the intensity of Ferdinand Berthoud (FB). Fewer still have the capacity to produce a watch that is truly hand made. The brand has leaned into these strengths to good effect with the Naissance d’une Montre 3, which is perhaps the most labour-intensive wristwatch ever created. Marking the third official chapter of the Time Æon Foundation’s Naissance d’une Montre project, the Montre 3 is the byproduct of a six year quest to thoroughly document the steps required to make a chain and fusee wristwatch using only hand-operated tools. While the production of the Montre 3 involves more than 80 individuals from both FB and its parent Chopard, the labour involved equates to roughly a full year’s work for five people to produce each of the 11 pieces that will be made in the coming years. Initial thoughts It’s easy to feel jaded about the smoke and mirrors of luxury watch marketing, with terms like ‘hand made’ and ‘in-house’ used all too freely, making it difficult to separate the signal from the noise. Make no mistake, the Montre 3 is, in some ways, what all traditional haute horlogerie watches aspire to be, and takes the concept of hand craftsmanship to its absolute limit. The Montre 3 is neither inventive nor complicated, but the intrinsic quality of its construction is immediately obvious and breathtaking in its own right. To some extent, the simplicity of the 44.3 mm white gold case demonstrates the ...

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In-Depth – The Return of the TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Oscillator, Inside new Carbon Monaco and Carrera Models Monochrome
TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Oscillator Inside new Sep 4, 2025

In-Depth – The Return of the TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Oscillator, Inside new Carbon Monaco and Carrera Models

Since Christiaan Huygens paired a balance wheel and spiral spring in 1675, the hairspring has been the beating heart of every mechanical watch. Its material has always dictated chronometric performance. Steel, used for centuries, suffered from magnetism and temperature drift. Special alloys developed in the 20th century improved reliability – from Elinvar to Nivarox/Nivachron, made […]

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First Look – The Artistic Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari Monochrome
Bulgari If you are attending Sep 4, 2025

First Look – The Artistic Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari

If you are attending the sixth edition of Geneva Watch Days, don’t miss Bulgari’s retrospective of the Octo Finissimo’s impressive trajectory in the ultra-thin watchmaking arena since 2014.  Alongside the record-breaking models is a new Octo Finissimo collaboration model made with Korean artist Lee Ufan, the latest in a long line of artists and architects […]

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TAG Heuer Introduces Carbon Monaco And Carrera Models Equipped With The Revolutionary TH-Carbonspring Fratello
TAG Heuer Introduces Carbon Monaco Sep 4, 2025

TAG Heuer Introduces Carbon Monaco And Carrera Models Equipped With The Revolutionary TH-Carbonspring

Watch brands are constantly pushing the boundaries of new materials. Several brands have proprietary ones that they use for cases, dials, and hands, but using new materials for calibers happens far less frequently. Today, TAG Heuer introduces a carbon hairspring as a revolutionary next step in material use for watch movements. The innovative TH-Carbonspring was […] Visit TAG Heuer Introduces Carbon Monaco And Carrera Models Equipped With The Revolutionary TH-Carbonspring to read the full article.

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