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Monochrome
Horage is a truly unique company within the Swiss watch industry. And this is something you immediately feel when visiting the independent watchmaking brand’s facilities in Biel. If the setting is obviously that of a watchmaking company, it also feels like a start-up when you walk across the corridors, workbenches or machines… The reason why […]
Hodinkee
It's been a decade since I first served, and here's why I decided to get back involved.
Deployant
Featuring the new Citizen Eco-Drive 365 - a watch running on solar energy, and featuring a full 365 days of running time on a full charge.
Worn & Wound
Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Gyavius Watch Company NAVI The Sophomore release from a brand called Gyavius represents a serious jump forward, and dabbles in the rarely seen fixed lug bar space. The watch, which is called the NAVI, has just launched its batch 1 order window, and it represents a healthy step in an original direction when it comes to dive watches from micro-brands. The NAVI is a 45mm dive watch with a fixed lug bar allowing a pass through strap, and allowing for a rather organic looking case shape overall that might wear a bit better than the numbers might suggest. But those numbers are there for a reason, this is a 100ATM diver, tested to 1000M of pressure. Do any of us need that much depth resistance? Absolutely not, but hey, it’s a pretty cool watch and if you’re going to go big, you may as well go all the way. The matte dial gets a generous helping of pad printed lume with hand applied green lume overtop for a maximum visibility and a pretty cool look. Inside you...
SJX Watches
The live stream for the GPHG 2022 begins broadcasting on: November 10 at 12:30 pm GMT-5 (New York) November 10 at 6:30 pm GMT+1 (Geneva, Frankfurt) November 11 at 1:30 am GMT+8 (Singapore, Shanghai, Hong Kong)
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Quill & Pad
Finally! After years of discussion that clocks should have a place, and some instances of clocks being included in categories that made little sense in 2021, the GPHG has created a category just for mechanical clocks. And, boy, what a complete smorgasbord of mechanical ingenuity! But what to choose?
Quill & Pad
Two regulators, a chronograph, a Spring Drive classic, a new steel sports watch with a twist on the seconds, and a Nixie tube watch: this is what our peanut gallery must choose a winner from in the Petite Aiguille category, finding the best value under CHF 10,000. A tall order!
Quill & Pad
The 2022 GPHG Artistic Crafts finalists include some unique pieces, some small series pieces, and one comparatively large-volume piece (of 100 examples) by a bigger producer. All are beautiful and rare in their decorations, which include guilloche, engraving, enamel work, miniature painting, wood marquetry, gem setting, and Japanese lacquer work. So how did our peanut gallery vote?
Quill & Pad
The best thing about these six GPHG 2022 Ladies’ Complication watches is the variety of complications. Yes, we still have two traditional tourbillons, but the other four complications are anything but traditional. But, our panel asks, why are the tourbillons for ladies not competing in the main tourbillon category?
Time+Tide
You might call it a slightly premature house-warming party. The Time+Tide HQ recently moved into Collins Street in the heart of Melbourne’s CBD and, while our new location probably wasn’t totally ready for an event, we couldn’t resist giving our T+T Club Members a sneak peek of our new home nonetheless. The ostensible excuse for … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide anti-flipper launch of the Bamford G-Shock DW-6900BWD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quill & Pad
The 2022 GPHG finalists have been announced and GaryG gives a shoutout to several of the entries that he feels are of special merit or interest. He suspects that some, but not all, of them will be his winner picks but reserves the right to change his mind when the annual round tables commence.
Hodinkee
Even in an age of automatics, Panerai remembers its 20th Century roots: Manually wound watches. Looking to build out your collection? Start here.
Quill & Pad
Is the universal attraction of a chronograph found in the ability to control part of the timekeeping yourself using the often-dynamic-looking extra dials and hands? For the GPHG, at any rate, this is an important category with, as usual, a very strong lineup. So how is our panel leaning when it comes to picking a winner? Find out here.
SJX Watches
Characterised by its sleek, modernist form, the Octo Finissimo Automatic was introduced only in 2017 but is arguably the most successful new design in the luxury sports watch category. Its architectural case and bracelet has now been melded with a dial conceived by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, resulting in the most intriguing iteration of the watch to date – the Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Edition. Born in 1941, Tadao Ando is a self-taught architect whose minimalist yet monumental buildings demonstrate his mastery of concrete, geometry and light. Winner of the 1995 Pritzker Prize, Mr Ando’s notable works include the Church of the Light in Osaka; 21_21 Design Sight, a design museum in Tokyo; and most recently a lavender-planted hilltop shrine containing a giant Buddha in Hokkaido. While much of his work is located in his home country, he is also famed for several international projects, including the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth in Texas and 152 Elizabeth, a residential tower in New York City as well as the Cerro Pelon Ranch in New Mexico designed for designer Tom Ford. In the Octo Finissimo Automatic, he relies on simple geometry to create an unusually distinctive dial, with a spiral motif that emanates from the seconds hand, creating the effect of a wave rippling across the dial. Though the pattern is remarkably simple – it is printed in black lacquer on the dial – the effect is striking, especially when contrasted against the harsh, futuristic lines of the c...
Hodinkee
Jason sits down for a chat with the photographer, filmmaker, conservationist, and watch designer.
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Hodinkee
Our editors cast their hypothetical votes for this year's most important watches.
Quill & Pad
The most interesting aspect of the Aiguille d’Or is how the winner won’t always be the most complicated, expensive, or groundbreaking. To win the Aiguille d’Or, a watch needs to be a fantastic all-around watch and have that little something extra, that 'je ne sais quoi.' So which watch has our panel set its sights upon? There is much discussion, of course . . .
SJX Watches
Only Watch founder Luc Pettavino is a very persuasive man. Every two years, he manages to convince small watchmakers to risk neglecting paying customers, and instead to spend a lot of time and effort to exercise their creativity in building a one-off timepiece – and then give the resulting watch to the Only Watch charity auction. Most watchmakers regard it as an honour to be asked for a contribution, after all, the list of participants include boldface establishment names like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. While Luc also receives many offers from brands, he wants to curate an interesting mix of watches for each Only Watch auction, capped at a maximum of 50 watches or so each time – he alone decides what’s in and what’s out. A few brands have been dedicated supporters of the charity since the very beginning, and they are usually invited to return year after year. In the inaugural Only Watch auction in 2005, lot 1 was the unique Eros “Navigation Pleasure” wristwatch. It was the work of Andersen Genève, the brand founded by Svend Andersen, a 77-year old veteran independent watchmaker best known for co-founding the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI). When Luc visited Svend at Baselworld earlier this year to solicit a contribution for Only Watch 2019, he received a swift “yes”. With the watch required to be finished for a world tour starting just three months after Baselworld, quick decisions were necessary a...
Quill & Pad
The GPHG Chronograph category is interesting this year thanks to the mix of the old and the new, including a brand-new futuristic material in one and a record-breaking thinness in another. Our jury is split on choosing a winner, but not quite split down the middle.
Quill & Pad
With our second set of predictions we take a look at the Ladies Complication category, a surprisingly packed collection of timepieces for women with more than an added moon phase or power reserve. These are very clearly designed to be different, and while we are collectively pretty sure one already has the win in the bag, it will definitely be an interesting category for the judges this year. Our panel was unanimous in its selection of one very beautiful and cleverly complex timepiece.
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Revolution
The basic idea behind the tourbillon is to take the escapement and put it in a mechanically driven mount (or a group of nested mounts, in the case of the family of orbital tourbillons) in order to create a single average rate in all the vertical positions - and in many instances, to create a […]
Fratello
Grand Seiko surprised friend and foe at Watches and Wonders when the brand released a smaller, more accurate dive watch at a lower price than its predecessor. The Ushio 300 diver, naturally, was met with applause. So, for this week’s showdown, we thought we’d stack it up against a watch so popular that it is […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Vs. Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In Titanium to read the full article.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list. This week, we decided to dive into the world of regatta timers. Rolex’s big introduction this year during Watches and Wonders was the updated Yacht-Master II. In itself, the updated watch proved to be a huge improvement compared to the previous generation of The Crown’s regatta timer. In both usability and […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The Rolex Yacht-Master II to read the full article.
Fratello
This year is a regal one indeed, as both Tudor and the Rolex Oyster case celebrate their 100th anniversary. For this grandiose occasion, Tudor presented a completely new model during Watches and Wonders 2026 to underline the significance of its century of existence. The Tudor Monarch is a hard-to-define watch, but when you look at […] Visit Hands-On With The Tudor Monarch — Are You Down With The New King? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Vacheron Constantin (VC) Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points” was one of the most talked about releases of Watches & Wonders — despite being a somewhat predictable, incremental upgrade to an existing model. The response is indicative of strong product/market fit and the transformative power of colour and texture. Initial thoughts By all accounts, the Overseas Ultra-Thin ref. 2500V should have been the talk of the VC booth at Watches & Wonders. The copper-dialled platinum edition recalls one of the most sought-after models in the Overseas canon, and introduced a new micro-rotor movement that feels destined to be a big part of the brand’s movement strategy going forward. But it was the Overseas Dual Time that seemed to get people talking, despite its predictability and the fact that it’s a much more incremental update to an existing model. In my view, there are three reasons for this. First and foremost, it’s a perfectly targeted product, aimed at a well of unmet demand that has been simmering since the the titanium Dual Time was first teased seven years ago. The high/low contrast between the industrial-haute horlogerie build quality and the sporty aesthetic is inherently appealing. In some ways it feels like the perfect watch for locales like Sun Valley or Davos — the dual-time functionality is purpose-built for vacations (and economic forums) and the colours and textures will pair well with Mammut or Patagonia. Second, all four editions — named for the ...
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