Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Past, Present, And Future Of The Rolex Milgauss
Rolex discontinuing the modern Milgauss. An auction record for a vintage version. It's time to ask: What in the world is up with the 'scientist's watch'?
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Hodinkee
Rolex discontinuing the modern Milgauss. An auction record for a vintage version. It's time to ask: What in the world is up with the 'scientist's watch'?
Worn & Wound
We were thrilled to see Seiko return to the Speedtimer in Solar Chronograph form earlier this summer, recalling the design of the iconic Sportura of the ‘90s. The concept is a deconstructed chronograph, and Seiko has brought all the components under a single crystal with this newest Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph. There is a dizzying array of activity on the watch when the timer is brought to life, and in this video we’re breaking everything down in a first look. Keep an eye out for the full review coming soon. The case and bracelet of the most recent Speedtimer could be called traditional in comparison to the original, making the somewhat large footprint quite wearable thanks to the curved and truncated lug design. Still, this isn’t a watch for the faint of heart. Switching modes is like putting a race car into full tilt, with all the needles neatly aligning at 12. This watch is capable of timing down to 1/100th of a second, and seeing that totalizer in action is otherworldly in the best possible way. There are four references of the new Speedtimer collection, two of which will be regular production models, with the other two enjoying limited edition status. The black on black dial, as well as the panda dial are welcome regular additions to the growing Prospex tool watch empire, while the other two examples bring a slightly different visual to the mix thanks to unique colorways and texture pairings. At first blush, the new Speedtimer captures a bit of the ...
Worn & Wound
A surefire way to know if a watch brand has a design that can withstand the test of time is instant recognizability. There’s no need to have the brand name positioned front and center because its unique styling and distinguishable silhouette are more than enough. From across the room, there’s no mistaking the TAG Heuer Monaco. Its square case, left-hand-drive crown and dual sub-register display immediately fires the synapses in our watch nerd brains. Throw in the Hollywood fame and a namesake that represents one of the most famous racing circuits in all of motorsports, then you have a watch that arguably cements its place on the Mount Rushmore of watches. The TAG Heuer Monaco remains as a platform for the brand to explore their avant garde ways, as well as to lean into their rich heritage and connection to motorsport across the world. With the latter in mind, TAG Heuer has announced the Monaco Chronograph in Racing Blue inspired by French motorsport liveries. French racing blue can trace its presence on the racing grid back to race cars such as the CD Panhard LM64 and the Bugatti Type 35 Grand Prix Racer to present day with the Alpine Endurance Team. The saturated shade of azure is now incorporated into the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph through its signature rounded-corner sub-register display. As a part of automotive color theory, designers are tasked with bringing inanimate objects to life and simultaneously making them look fast in the process. That’s a noticeable ...
Worn & Wound
During the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago this year Benrus took the opportunity to introduce a familiar dive watch to their expanding collection, with a re-issue of the classic Ultra-Deep. The small watch made a big impression on a select group of divers who were given the opportunity to explore a shipwreck east of Chicago under the crisp waves of Lake Michigan with the watch in tow. A similar dive expedition took place during the fair in Chicago last year as well, which makes this something of a tradition unfolding. We weren’t in the water this year with the divers, but were on hand to witness them at work, and see some of the watches worn in action, including the new Benrus Ultra-Deep. I see and deal with plenty of dive watches here at Worn & Wound, heck I own enough to create a private special forces squad of sorts, but the act itself always falls into slightly conceptual territory, as I am not a certified diver. That will be changing soon, however, in large part thanks to my experiences on this trip. Witnessing the gear-centric commotion felt strangely foreign apart from the very familiar watches that took their places right alongside high-tech dive computers. One takeaway here is that there is a lot of gear involved in diving. I could barely identify anything beyond the facemasks and knives, presenting a bevy of eye candy for a curious newcomer. Seeing how mechanical watches fit into this context was an eye opening experience, especially compared to the marketing ma...
Worn & Wound
Fears is celebrating the one year anniversary of the opening of their flagship showroom in Bristol, England with the release of a pair of watches in Mallard Green, a color that has never been used on a regular production Fears watch before. This release marks what the brand says will be the beginning of a new “Boutique Editions” collection that will expand to every future model in the Fears catalog. The first watches in the Boutique Editions collection are the Brunswick 38 and Brunswick 40, two representations of the classic cushion cased design that is at the core of the Fears design language. The dark green color used for the new dials is based on the tones seen on the mallard drake duck, and has hints of gray and blue that give the green an additional depth. The finishing process for these dials involves a silver galvanic coating being applied prior to the hand painting of each individual dial with a translucent varnish. Fears says that green pigment is added a drop at a time to achieve the desired tone. The dials also have a sunburst finish which is designed to catch light in interesting ways, and showcase the depth of the green tones. The dial layout differs slightly from the 38mm watch to the 40mm version. The larger watch is effectively a sector dial design, with an outer ring for the Arabic numerals and minute track in a high contrast white. The inner section has a very subtle “micro guilloche” pattern that contrasts with the outer portion, which is giv...
Worn & Wound
Is it even summer if you go the whole thing without some cotton candy? If the sugary-sweet treat isn’t for you, then you can get your fix in watch form with this trio of cotton candy divers from Oris. Originally encased in bronze, this fun and colorful trio of Divers Sixty-Fives were certainly unique, but the patina-heavy cases may not have been for everyone. Not only does this new release of 38mm divers come in stainless steel, but it also makes the dial colors pop even more, since they’re the center of attention. Is it even summer if you go the whole thing without some cotton candy? If the sugary-sweet treat isn’t for you, then you can get your fix in watch form with this trio of cotton candy divers from Oris. Originally encased in bronze, this fun and colorful trio of Divers Sixty-Fives were certainly unique, but the patina-heavy cases may not have been for everyone. Not only does this new release of 38mm divers come in stainless steel, but it also makes the dial colors pop even more, since they’re the center of attention. The post Now in the Shop: A Trio of Oris Cotton Candy Flavors, Now in Steel appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Nomos' version of a dive watch is now in a more approachable case size.
Worn & Wound
I have to start this review by being honest about something: I don’t spend a lot of time thinking about calendar watches. I just don’t. When I think “calendar watch,” for some reason that I can’t quite put my finger on, my mind jumps to “perpetual calendar,” even though a watch with a simple date function is also technically a calendar watch as well. My curse, I guess, is that I immediately start thinking about a complication that is, for the most part, completely out of my reach. So when someone says there’s a cool new calendar watch to check out (I can count on one hand the number of times this has actually happened) I’m usually less interested than if someone were to, for example, suggest we go out and get dumplings at the Chinese restaurant down the street, or go see Oppenheimer for a second time, or some combination of those two things. The other problem, because I tend to associate the very idea of calendar watches with the most complex watches in production, is that when talk turns to calendars, I think of very expensive service costs. A local watch friend once owned a vintage triple calendar made by one of the most respected and admired Swiss brands. It broke, and the bill was, how can I put it this…kind of brutal. Again, not something I want in my life. This line of thinking, of course, is deeply unfair, and a bias that I freely admit and am trying to break out of. A new watch from MAEN, a Swedish brand with a Dutch name, reminded me rece...
SJX Watches
Released in March at Watches & Wonders, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” is perhaps the most notable travel watch in Tudor’s line up thanks to a silvery-white dial that may or may not have been inspired by the Rolex GMT-Master “Pan Am”. A variant of the original model in black, the Black Bay GMT with a white dial is typical Tudor – namely excellent quality and outstanding value – but it might be a subtle reference to the mythical, and sometimes controversial, GMT-Master “Pan Am”. Though there’s no official reference to the potential historical inspiration, the GMT “Opaline” is an in-joke that a historically-minded enthusiast will appreciate. Initial thoughts To the casual observer, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” might seem like yet another iteration of Tudor’s bestselling dive watch. In fact, the GMT might seem less appealing when set against the equally recent Black Bay 54 with its properly-vintage proportions. But the GMT “Opaline” deserves a second look. The softly-grained dial with its “polar” palette is clear, clean, and well-executed, and most importantly possesses a different feel compared to the black dial of the original version, especially since black is the de facto dial colour for sports watches and very, very common. Being a dual time zone and silvery-white, the GMT “Opaline” is different despite its traditional design. That said, the GMT “Opaline” is otherwise entirely the same as the model introduced in 2018, which mea...
You could say there are one of a few ways to make a dive watch stand out – a unique design, a superior movement, an unbeatable price/value ratio, or all of the above. Unfortunately, unique often means expensive, even though the brand cannot always truly justify the why. Often, it’s the fact that something is … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Helicon paints the sunset with the 62 Master Blue Hour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Swatch release four new references in Bioceramic in a square case in black, gray, green and beige (blue dial). Introducing the BIOCERAMIC WHAT IF?
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tritium is hands-down the best option for those who need good lume on their watch. Here are the top tritium watches we've reviewed!
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Huckberry The Huckberry x Peak Design Collection Gets The X-Pac Treatment Via Huckberry x Peak Design When camera bag and accessory outfit Peak Design joins forces with the gear experts at Huckberry, cool things are bound to happen which often lead us to adding yet another utility bag to an ever-growing collection. You get the best of both worlds when these two brands link up. Between the nifty features that make Peak Design products seamless to use, and the keen eye for tough and good looking gear that’s always present among their online store curation, this ongoing collaborative collection has a lot to offer. Their latest turns the toughness factor up a notch, taking familiar silhouettes and wrapping them up in X-Pac. Via Huckberry x Peak Design X-Pac is a fabric that has slowly made its way into a slew of products across the entire utility bag industry, and for good reason. X-Pac is remarkably durable and anchored by an impressive strength-to-weight ratio. With fabric features that include 210 Denier Nylon and DWR coating, any bag made out of X-Pac is going t...
Teddy Baldassarre
We've all heard of "dressing for success," and the sage advice on dressing for "the job you want, not the job you have." These wardrobe rules of thumb also apply to the watch one wears to go to work, whether your workplace is a corporate office, a restaurant kitchen, a science lab, an aircraft cockpit or anywhere in-between. Here we've listed 20 occupations and suggested a proper timepiece for each. The list is, of course, quite subjective, so please feel free to add your own alternatives in the comments. We'll likely be updating this list regularly, so if you've got an occupation that's not covered here, plus an idea of the perfect watch for it, do chime in with that as well. Bank CEO: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119R ($31,940) A corner-office executive needs a watch that projects understated style as well as classical luxury, and perhaps no brand embodies that ethos better than Patek Philippe, which recently added a hobnail “Clous de Paris” bezel, first used on the classic Ref. 3919, to its iconic Calatrava (Ref. 6119R). The watch comes in at 39mm in either rose gold or white gold - larger than its 36mm predecessors but still elegantly sized and also very thin at just over 8mm high. The harmoniously balanced, creamy white dial - with Roman hour numerals on the rose-gold model, gray-to-black with applied indexes on the white-gold - features a recessed small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock and a railroad minute track on the periphery. Inside is Patek Phil...
Worn & Wound
Back in the fall of 2020, Oris had a breakout hit with their Pointer Date Roberto Clemente Limited Edition. It was a watch that hit all of the right notes: a much loved complication that is deeply tied to the brand’s identity, an appealing but uncommon colorway, and, most importantly, it helped to tell the story of the late Roberto Clemente, who is as well known as a humanitarian as a he is a baseball player. Now, Oris is back with another baseball themed watch, this one honoring the legacy of Hank Aaron, the Hall of Famer who held MLB’s home run record for decades after his retirement, and still holds records for most career RBIs and total bases. This project, however, is really more about Hank Aaron’s humanitarian legacy, and as a collaboration with the Hank Aaron Chasing the Dream Foundation, it seeks to honor the important work that took place after his baseball career ended. The Chasing the Dream Foundation was founded in 1994 as a non-profit whose mission is to award scholarship funds to young people with limited opportunities. According to Oris and the Foundation, they have provided assistance for over 800 kids to further their education, with many pursuing careers in education, the sciences, and the arts. Earlier this week, the Atlanta Braves began a celebration of Aaron’s life and legacy, with the release of the new Hank Aaron Limited Edition version of the Big Crown Pointer Date playing a central role. The watch takes a familiar format and adds color ...
Worn & Wound
Sequent is a Swiss smartwatch brand on a mission. What’s that mission? Well, simply put, it’s to make a smartwatch that watch fans will actually like. No, it doesn’t say that on their website, but after spending some time with two of their models, the Supercharger and the Elektron, that’s the conclusion I’ve come to. You see, these aren’t your typical digital smartwatches, which, let’s face it, unless they come from one of a couple of brands, no one is wearing. Rather, these are analog smartwatches that pair with an app to add some, but not too many, smart features to an otherwise fairly traditional design. To make things even better, they’re automatic, in a manner of speaking. $750 [VIDEO] Hands-On: the Sequent Supercharger and Elektron Smartwatches Case Steel or Titanium Movement Self-Winding Electronic Dial Solid of Transparent Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Various Water Resistance 50m Dimensions 42 x 46.6mm Thickness 14.2mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Buttons Only Warranty Yes Price $750 The two watches I tried both feature Sequent’s “in-house” movement, which charges via motion. Through the case back, you’ll clearly see a rotor, which happens to be made of tungsten, spinning around. However, that’s where the similarities to a typical mechanical movement stop. The rotor spins, but it doesn’t wind anything, rather it generates electricity via magnetic fields and science. This energy is stored and powers the electronics. It’s a bit like a Seiko Kine...
Time+Tide
Despite being launched during the 2023 edition of Watches & Wonders, Bulgari’s summer-ready intentions were clear with their latest Aluminium limited edition duo. Named the Capri and Match Point, both seem perfectly capable companions for any holiday adventure, whether it be dipping into the azure waters off the Italian coast, or playing three points of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Bulgari’s new Aluminium Capri and Match Point get a splash of summer-ready colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Most dive watches we come across qualify as such thanks to a chunky bezel, gobs of lume on the dial, and halfway decent depth rating. Vulcain, never keen to adhere to the well beaten path, took a different approach with their diver, the Nautical Cricket, and it shows at first blush. The impressive depth rating is there, sure, but the rest of the formula kind of goes out the window. It’s an approach I’d love to see more of in modern divers, and am thrilled to see Vulcain return to the concept 60 years after the original, and 10 years after the first attempt at resuscitation. It’s entirely confusing at a glance, and even if you know what you’re looking at, it still might require an explanation. The new Nautical Cricket is the latest chapter in Vulcain’s modern resurgence. The Nautical Cricket is, as you may have guessed from the name, an alarm watch, which can be set via the thin 4th hand with bright red tip. While unique, that’s not the most unusual element to this watch. That would be the inner portion of the dial, which is littered with rings and number sets and a long thin aperture which reveal further sets of numbers when turned. These tables are used in conjunction with the alarm timer, and if used correctly, will give you the length of your decompression stops at 3, 6, and 9 meters on your ascent. How this works exactly is a bit trickier to decipher, but makes the watch all the more interesting as a dive tool. Things begin with the planned length of your...
SJX Watches
Historically known for its over-the-top jewelled watches and oversized complications, Jacob & Co. recently debuted a watch that is very much quintessential Jacob, but surprisingly novel in mechanical terms. The Astronomia Revolution sticks to the distinctive, extra-large styling that defines the model, but contains an all-new movement that combines several complex assemblies into an even more complex movement, all in the name of a dynamic, fast-rotating display. Carrying the tourbillon and time display, the carousel is impressively quick and completes one revolution a minute, a feat made possible by a one-sixth-of-a-second constant-force mechanism and a differential for the time display. The kinetic nature of the dial means this is unlike any other mechanical watch. Initial thoughts The Astronomia Revolution made it into my list of notable complications unveiled at Watches & Wonders earlier this year: “[The] Revolution seems like yet another variant of the New York jeweller’s bestselling and bulbous timepiece… Except that it is not… While past versions of the Astronomia required between ten to 20 minutes or more for the carousel to complete one rotation, the Revolution does it in one minute [and] functions as a minute hand. To move a component that large at such a speed is unprecedented…” Which pretty much sums it up. It looks like a typical Jacob & Co. watch, but is much more interesting mechanically. That is because the movement goes against the prevailing co...
Deployant
The Lange 1 Time Zone is one of the most quintessential timepieces from modern-day A. Lange & Söhne. It is the only Lange 1 watch that is travel-themed, and the most specialised travel watch that the brand offers. Since its debut in 2005 – about ten years after the brand’s renaissance – numerous variations of the model haveRead More
Worn & Wound
Pendleton is a family-owned textiles company that’s been producing their iconic blankets for over a century. When they paired up with Casio – one of the most iconic manufacturers of digital watches, the result is sure to impress. Based on the Pro Trek, this collab is designed to pay homage to living in harmony with nature. Crafted from environmentally conscious materials, the watch isn’t just all talk. Let’s take a closer look at the PRG601PE-5, which is now live in the Windup Watch Shop. Pendleton is a family-owned textiles company that’s been producing their iconic blankets for over a century. When they paired up with Casio – one of the most iconic manufacturers of digital watches, the result is sure to impress. Based on the Pro Trek, this collab is designed to pay homage to living in harmony with nature. Crafted from environmentally conscious materials, the watch isn’t just all talk. Let’s take a closer look at the PRG601PE-5, which is now live in the Windup Watch Shop. The post Now in the Shop: An Outdoorsy Collab from Pendleton and Casio appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
In July of 2014, we published what remains one of the most entertaining, and informative, Talking Watches episodes to date.
Hodinkee
Radium is the least of his concerns in our watch-related movie of the week.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Gerber Gear Gerber’s Latest Folding Knife Weighs Just 2 Ounces Via Gerber Gear This week, Gerber Gear announced their latest addition to their wide ranging lineup of folding knives with the fully customizable Assert. Its compact design and lightweight build are balanced by the combination of a hardened S30V stainless steel blade folding in and out of a tough, ergonomically-fashioned, glass-filled nylon handle. At a glance, the Assert has the makings of a proper EDC knife. Via Gerber Gear The Assert’s main hallmark is its ability to customize based on each user’s preference. Starting with the handle, the Assert provides an ambidextrous pivot lock and deep pocket clip. The exterior of the handle has a textured grip starting from the base while the interior is further solidified by a honeycomb construction. The blade also provides additional customization with its adjustable thumb stub, allowing a one-handed deployment of the blade. The pivot lock mechanism makes enclosing the blade just as seamless. Via Gerber Gear Much like the handle, the blade has an aesthe...
Time+Tide
For a watch collector, horological monogamy is a huge challenge. The idea of limiting yourself to one watch, or one brand, is enough to give most watch collectors the sweats. But we like to have fun at Time+Tide. So we challenged you all to pick one of four brands in part one. The challenge: you … ContinuedThe post Rolex, Patek, AP, VC – you can only wear one for life. These were your responses… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Back in 2020 Vacheron and the Louvre offered a chance for a watch based on any piece of art. This is the amazing result.
Worn & Wound
Good design always comes back in cycles. Whether it’s the revival of midcentury furniture or Neoclassical architecture, there’s an undeniable truth when it comes to design: if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Watch brands are surprisingly good at acknowledging – even celebrating – past designs, only making small updates for better performance or tweaking the finer details to refine the overall product. Bulova’s release of their reimagined Jet Star is one such example of this. Taking inspiration from the archival 1970’s Jet Star, the new Bulova 1973 Jet Star has made incremental updates to the overall design, preserving what works and making small improvements along the way. The stainless steel case remains as angular and interesting to the eye as the original, but has since been updated with a trio of colorways for a variety of options. Customers can now choose between a sporty steel timepiece with red and blue accents, a gold-toned Jet Star with rich brown and gold tones, or a not-so-subtle red and steel model. While the aesthetic of the watch could be right out of the 70’s, the internals of this watch are anything but retro. Utilizing a Precisionist movement, this quartz caliber vibrates at a remarkable 262kHz, making for a gorgeously smooth second hand that sweeps across the dial, similar to a mechanical watch. This unparalleled accuracy punches well above the weight class and price point of the Jet Star. Each of the three references in this collection ...
Time+Tide
Now that the thrilling and heart-wrenching Oppenheimer has hit theatres, watch fanatics will surely be clamouring to find out what’s on the wrists of the cast. Christopher Nolan is known for his attention to detail and commitment to practical effects, so watches would never be a costuming afterthought. Hamilton must have amassed the greatest relationship … ContinuedThe post Vintage Hamilton watches get eye-catching cameos in Oppenheimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having made its debut in 2020 with the 1967 deadbeat seconds, Petermann Bédat recently unveiled its second watch, the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph. The 2941 lives up to the benchmark established by its predecessor with a traditionally-styled movement that is decorated to an impressive degree, albeit one that reflects constraints in its development. The brand’s founders, Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, are both watchmakers in their early 30s who studied watchmaking in Geneva before a stint at A. Lange & Söhne. The pair also spent time carrying out restorations of vintage watches. Their shared experience is illustrated in the 2941, most notably in the traditional decoration and styling of the movement. Initial thoughts When Petermann Bédat made its debut in 2020 with the 1967, a time-only with deadbeat seconds, independent watchmaking was a much less crowded space. As a result, the 1967 stood out for both its intrinsic qualities, namely excellent finishing and traditional mechanics, but also the fact that it was fairly novel. Now time-only watches with seemingly good finishing seem to be everywhere, most of which are even similar to the Petermann Bédat profile in having founders in the their 30s and 40s. So Petermann Bédat did well in introducing a following up with something more complicated for its second model. The 2941 continues with the aesthetics of the 1967, essentially a modernised “sector” dial, and also the movement finishing. The quality...
Worn & Wound
Chris Baker is not the typical watch enthusiast we’re used to reading about. He’s not an actor, a titan of industry, or any sort of celebrity brand ambassador. He is, however, the type of person we need more of. Chris describes himself as a “homelessness and housing advocate and service provider.” In fact, he is the founder of The Other Ones Foundation (TOOF) in Austin, Texas, a nonprofit that offers humanitarian aid, case management and extremely low-barrier work opportunities to people experiencing homelessness. You may know Chris from Netflix’s hit reality show, Queer Eye. He was the hero featured in season 6, episode 8. For those unfamiliar, Queer Eye is a feel-good show where five hosts come into the lives of extraordinary people who do and represent extraordinary things, but need a hand in claiming ownership of the incredible people that they are. This was my introduction to Chris. I connected with his story so much that I began following him on Instagram, and over the last couple of years he’s become a friendly online acquaintance. Eventually I found out that Chris is a watch enthusiast, so I reached out to him to have a conversation about his love of watches and where they fit into his life. Chris comes off as a rocker who’s made his way around the block, cracking jokes, delivering a bit of snark in a gravel tone, evoking some 90s grunge vibes – I was waiting for him to croon “Black Hole Sun,” alas, it didn’t happen. Instead he explained t...
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