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Swatch Goes Vintage with the 1984 Reloaded Collection SJX Watches
Casio n Swatch constructed Oct 11, 2021

Swatch Goes Vintage with the 1984 Reloaded Collection

Launched in 1983 – with the driving force behind its conception being Ernst Thomke, the then-chief of movement manufacturer ETA – Swatch set out to be the antithesis of the traditional Swiss-made watch. Cased in plastic and quartz, the Swatch watch was cheap, cheerful, and vividly colourful. But it was a hit, with its unusual, funky styling making the Swatch a fashion statement – a million watches were sold in the first year. To celebrate the occasion, Swatch constructed a 13-tonne, 162 m-long mega-watch and hung it from the front of the Commerzbank skyscraper in Frankfurt. A homage to London’s Big Ben, the giant clock was a brilliant publicity stunt that boldly announced the ambitions of Swatch. The oversized watch indicated the time and three pieces of information: “Swatch”, “Swiss”, and the retail price of “DM60”. Now Swatch is remembering 1984 with a quintet of watches, each a recreation of the year’s bestsellers, but with a twist. Instead of plastic as the originals were, the remakes have cases of Bioceramic, while the straps are made of bio-sourced plastic – making the entire watch a little friendlier to the environmental than the 1980s originals. Initial thoughts Given the diverse and imaginative offerings at Swatch, it’s unusual for the company to reissue vintage watches, though it’s done a couple in the recent past. Interestingly, the 1984 collection resonates with the broader, luxury-watch market, which frequently returns to past hit...

Cramain Introduces the Mark II Constant Force SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey which works i Dec 30, 2020

Cramain Introduces the Mark II Constant Force

Established in 2014, Cramain recently unveiled its first wristwatch, the Mark II Constant Force. Technically the brand’s second model – the Mark I was never commercialised – the Mark II is a hand-wound, time-only wristwatch equipped with a 20-second remontoir, and produced almost entirely by Kilian Leschnik, one half of the founding duo, the other being Dr Julian M. Stiels, a Swiss medical doctor with a keen interest in watches. Just 28 years old, Mr Leschnik completed his watchmaking studies in 2016. But the German watchmaker was already working on his own wristwatch in 2014, a timepiece that evolved out of his school watch. Cramain is a means to “live his dream as a mechanical artist”, says Mr Leschnik. Mr Leschnik and Dr Stiels developed the Mark II together, with Dr Stiels having taught himself computer-aided design, allowing him to construct do the construction of the watch and its movement. Starting two years ago, Dr Stiels has made Cramain his full-time calling. The pair are the sole owners of the brand, which is entirely self-funded. Part of it was made possible by prototyping work Mr Leschnik has done for various Swiss watch brands. Initial thoughts Impressive in both function and fabrication, the Mark II is evidently a wristwatch of extremely high quality, and one created by a watchmaker with a dedication to quality in form and finish. The Mark II’s design is a contemporary techno-mechanical style that is reminiscent of Greubel Forsey, which works i...

In the Eye of the Storm - A Letter From Geneva SJX Watches
Rolex which just closed all Mar 17, 2020

In the Eye of the Storm - A Letter From Geneva

Switzerland has declared a state of emergency as a result of the COVID-19 coronavirus. Almost everything is closed, including schools, shops, and restaurants, with only businesses offering the basic necessities, like banks and supermarkets, being allowed to open. There is bad news from Switzerland’s neighbours as well; the virus has spread fast in Italy. A recent poll showed that only 8% of the Swiss population feel they are in great danger. I can assure you that 100% of watch brands are feeling the pressure. Many watch factories, particularly the privately-held brands, have shut down completely or are about to. That includes Rolex, which just closed all its facilities for two weeks starting March 17. Watch sales are falling all around the world, with some brands suffering drops of 30-40% in February, and duty-free sales – which are substantial for the watch industry – falling by up to 90% in major airports. We have seen many crises, but this is unprecedented. But the biggest blow to the industry so far – the cancellation of the major watch fairs, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) and Baselworld. Even though very little is actually sold at the fairs, they were universal events that brought everyone together, almost like an annual reunion of old friends (and competitors). The fairs were a major, major part of the larger imagination, so the cancellations feel like a massive blow for everyone in the industry. The accelerating fallout First, the timeline of the virus’ i...

In-Depth: The Unfinished George Daniels Watch SJX Watches
Breguet idea while Feb 23, 2020

In-Depth: The Unfinished George Daniels Watch

George Daniels’ contributions to horology, as a watchmaker, historian and educator, were multi-dimensional. Most are widely known, and his watches are now incredibly valuable. But one of his creations – the “Unfinished Daniels” – remains tantalisingly incomplete, residing in the Clockmakers’ Museum within London’s Science Museum (which is also now home to Daniels’ Space Traveller II pocket watch). Even though he completed only a small number of watches – 23 pocket watches and four wristwatches made by hand, along with the serially-produced Millennium watches – Daniels’ inventions, techniques and philosophy have been deeply influential. His successor Roger W. Smith now practices the Daniels method with his own hand-made watches, but other notable watchmakers, including Francois-Paul Journe, have cited Daniels as an inspiration. The unfinished Daniels movement in the George Daniels exhibit in the Clockmakers’ Museum. Photo – Science Museum Like many great watchmakers over the ages, Daniels’ pursued perfect chronometry throughout his career; inventing a novel, superior escapement was perhaps his greatest achievement. And he managed to do it twice. Having observed that the sliding friction in the conventional Swiss lever escapement affects the rate of a movement over time, he set about developing solutions. He invented two escapement types: one inspired by a 18th century Abraham-Louis Breguet idea, while the other was the entirely original and mo...

Obituary: Gilbert Albert, Jeweller and Watch Designer SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 3, 2019

Obituary: Gilbert Albert, Jeweller and Watch Designer

Designer of some of the most striking wristwatches of the 1960s, jeweller Gilbert Albert (1930-2019), passed away in his hometown of Geneva on October 1 , 2019. He was 90. Son of a newspaper deliveryman, Albert trained as a jeweller at Geneva’s l’Ecole des Arts Industriels and was only in his mid 20s when he joined Patek Philippe in 1955 as a designer. In his seven years at the watchmaker, which was then led by Henri Stern, himself a trained jeweller, Albert was responsible for some of the most radical watch cases of the era. These strikingly asymmetrical timepieces, like the Asymétrie wristwatches and Ricochet pocket watches, are still incredible designs six decades on. Gilbert Albert. Photo – lenouvelliste.ch He then set up his own workshop in 1962, where he became known for the use of unusual materials like coral and meteorite, all installed in quirky, unique jewellery desirable enough that frequent fakes eventually emerged. Albert also designed watches and jewellery for other watchmakers, most notably Omega, where he created several collections, including the Maille d’Or and Arabesque d’Or, all characterised by a distinctive, almost organic style. With his success, Albert built a small but highly regarded jewellery business. He opened his first store in his hometown in 1973, sited on rue de la Corraterie, a street just outside the walls of Geneva’s Old Town. Ten years later that was followed by a boutique in Zurich. Albert’s boutique in Gen...

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Japanese Cherry” Pocket Watch SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Japanese Cherry” Jul 10, 2019

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Japanese Cherry” Pocket Watch

Contemporary Patek Philippe pocket watches are uncommon, and Rare Handcrafts examples – all of which are unique one-offs – are even more scarce. More objet d’art than portable timekeeper, only a handful are made each year. Sold at Sotheby’s late last year for almost US$290,000, the Rare Handcrafts ref. 982/159G “Japanese Cherry” pocket watch is a particularly delicate example of Patek Philippe’s enamelling. Rare Handcrafts pocket watches are often figurative or detailed in the extreme. This year’s line-up of pocket watches feature decorations that include a leopard, several landscapes, and a miniature of Vermeer’s The Wine Glass. The “Japanese Cherry”, on the other hand, takes a difference approach to its art; the decoration is simple yet vivid in colour and form. Unveiled in 2015, the “Japanese Cherry” watch was arguably the most important piece of the Rare Handcrafts collection that year, because the Japanese cherry motif formed the cover of the year’s catalogue. It’s a Lépine pocket watch, with the crown and sub-seconds arranged in a line (as opposed to a hunter movement that has them at right angles to each other). A plant synonymous with the country, the Japanese cherry produces the cherry blossom, or sakura, a cultural icon of Japan. On the watch branches of the cherry tree are depicted against a pale beige background. The branches are hand engraved in relief, with the individual cherries being bright red fired enamel with a g...

VIDEO: Game, set, match…point. A closer look at Rado’s HyperChrome Match Point Time+Tide
Rado s HyperChrome Match Point Feb 24, 2019

VIDEO: Game, set, match…point. A closer look at Rado’s HyperChrome Match Point

Sports tie-in watches play a - if you’ll pardon the pun - dangerous game. On the one hand there’s a lot of gloss (and potential sales) to be earned from the association with an event that’s under the spotlight. The downside, though, is you might end up with a watch that looks more like a souvenir … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Game, set, match…point. A closer look at Rado’s HyperChrome Match Point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Identifying a Watch 101: The Elliott Smith Case Study Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe s galore 9h ago

Identifying a Watch 101: The Elliott Smith Case Study

Whether it’s shown briefly on a TV show, in a photograph, featured in an advertisement, or even programmed into a video game, as watch collectors, we’ve all had at least one time where we spotted a watch and felt almost forced to double-take. Because of the money associated with stardom, it’s often Rolex Submariners, Omega Speedmasters, and Patek Philippe’s galore that we find in popular culture productions and events. There are, of course, countless instances of this, but I find that catching a glimpse of an inexpensive and accessible watch on someone’s wrist is far more rewarding and worthwhile to the average watch collector. Few of us have the ability to spend thousands of dollars on a watch that has Hollywood provenance, so to spot and potentially own a piece of horological pop culture history for sometimes well under $100 is a dream come true for many movie and watch fans. To illustrate how identifying a watch can be quite fun and certainly approachable, we will be examining singer/songwriter Elliott Smith and his wristwatch. Its brand and model will be revealed later on as I will first walk you through each step of the process. I hope I can provide you with some pointers the next time you come across a watch you want to identify yourself. It can feel like a rather unnecessary skill at times, but it’s a good feeling to discover a popular culture tie to a wristwatch that no one else has noticed before. How to Identify and Research an Unknown Watch Using Pho...

The Best Watch I Have Ever Owned: How The Tudor Black Bay Pro Became The Best Watch I Almost Owned Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Pro Became Yesterday

The Best Watch I Have Ever Owned: How The Tudor Black Bay Pro Became The Best Watch I Almost Owned

Exactly a month ago, Thomas kicked off a series on the best watches we’ve ever owned. The idea is for each writer to describe his favorite watch, the one that served him most loyally and brought the most joy. Mine comes with a twist: it’s a watch I never technically owned, yet for over a […] Visit The Best Watch I Have Ever Owned: How The Tudor Black Bay Pro Became The Best Watch I Almost Owned to read the full article.

First Look - The Green, Europe-Only Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver HBC010 Monochrome
Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver 4 days ago

First Look - The Green, Europe-Only Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver HBC010

Seiko’s Prospex collection is wide… Even by narrowing it down to dive watches only, there’s plenty to choose from, starting with the accessible Samurai and Turtle, followed by the robust 1968 Heritage Diver, up to the high-spec Marinemasters. There’s another one, however, that both carries great historical importance and visual appeal, the Prospex 1965 Heritage […]

Business News: Independent Watch Retailer Collective Horology Sues Trump And Administration Over New Tariffs Hodinkee
Armin Strom Czapek Fears U.S.-based J.N Jul 29, 2026

Business News: Independent Watch Retailer Collective Horology Sues Trump And Administration Over New Tariffs

Independent watch retailer Collective Horology LLC filed legal action against President Donald Trump, U.S. Trade Representative Jamieson Greer, and a host of other government officials and departments, alleging the administration's new tariff duties are "unlawful," lack congressional approval, and harm American business. The Ventura, California company, in a lawsuit filed in the United States Court of International Trade on July 24, alleges Trump and his deputies, in imposing tariffs of 10% and 12.5% on goods imported into the U.S. under Section 301 of the Trade Act,  exceeded the President's authority to unilaterally levy such measures. The lawsuit represents the most aggressive response yet by the watch industry that has been financially kneecapped by the levies that have exacerbated an economically challenging environment that includes a strong Swiss franc against the U.S. dollar and record precious metals prices, a key input in luxury watchmaking. Many of the most high-profile watch brands raised prices in response, while retailers have taken a hit on margins. Collective Horology co-founder and CEO Asher Rapkin. Photo courtesy Collective Horology.  Founded in 2018, Collective sells independent watch brands including Armin Strom, Czapek, Fears, U.S.-based J.N. Shapiro and Ming, among others. The company has paid more than $160,000 in tariff duties under various schemes imposed by the Trump White House and U.S. Trade Representative Greer, says co-founder and Chief Exe...

Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2026 Recap: Our Biggest Midwest Celebration Yet Worn & Wound
Ming community-first atmosphere Jul 28, 2026

Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2026 Recap: Our Biggest Midwest Celebration Yet

Long before the doors opened on Friday morning, a line had already formed outside Morgan MFG. Some attendees had traveled across the city, others across the country, all eager to see more than 70 watch brands, reconnect with friends, meet the people behind their favorite companies, and spend a weekend immersed in watch enthusiasm. By the time the doors closed on Sunday afternoon, one thing was clear: this was our biggest Windup Watch Fair Chicago ever. Over three incredible days at our new home in Morgan MFG, Windup Watch Fair Chicago welcomed its largest attendance to date, setting a new benchmark for the event. Thousands of enthusiasts, collectors, industry professionals, and first-time visitors filled the show floor, creating the unmistakable energy that has come to define Windup. The move to Morgan MFG proved to be the perfect next chapter for Chicago. The spacious venue gave us room to grow while maintaining the welcoming, community-first atmosphere that makes Windup special. Flooded with natural light and just steps from Fulton Market, it quickly became one of our favorite venues yet. More than 70 exhibiting brands brought hundreds of new releases, fan favorites, prototypes, and limited editions for attendees to experience firsthand. Whether someone was buying their first mechanical watch or comparing the latest releases from independent brands, every table offered the chance to discover something new. Incredible Partners Helped Make It Happen A weekend like this sim...

Introducing - New Indie Atelier Pieters Introduces Its Inaugural Watch, the Atelier 1 Founders’ Series Monochrome
Ming Jul 27, 2026

Introducing - New Indie Atelier Pieters Introduces Its Inaugural Watch, the Atelier 1 Founders’ Series

There’s a new indie watch brand on the scene. It seems that we’re telling this story every week. Sometimes, or should I say rather often, these new ventures are coming with pretty fascinating inaugural watches. So is the case of Atelier Pieters, a company founded by couple Maarten and Jessica Pieters. Two watchmakers, one workshop, […]

BA111OD Introduces a New Version of their Chapter 7 Skeleton Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Worn & Wound
Jul 27, 2026

BA111OD Introduces a New Version of their Chapter 7 Skeleton Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch

Swiss indie BA111OD has introduced a new version of their Chapter 7 integrated bracelet sports watch featuring a skeleton dial. BA111OD has quietly been building a reputation these last few years for challenging long held conventions about value and what can be expected at certain price points (they make tourbillons starting at around $10,000). While the brand was founded in 2019, the family behind it has a watchmaking lineage that goes all the way back to the 18th century, so their perspective is shaped by both traditional Swiss watchmaking values and modern design sensibilities. I’ll be honest, my first reaction to the core Chapter 7 watches when they were initially introduced was essentially a shrug of the shoulders. Certainly there was nothing wrong with it, but it seemed to me to be yet another integrated bracelet design, an idea that has quickly become generic in these years following the Royal Oak and Nautilus boom. Somehow, though, with the skeleton version of the Chapter 7, first seen with an anthracite PVD treatment, the watch seemed to come together for me. I’m a sucker for a well executed skeleton treatment on a sports watch, and BA111OD’s approach, with cantilevered indices over a solid rehaut surrounding the open dial, makes for a legible and easy to digest presentation.  Last week, BA111OD unveiled a new version of the Chapter 7 Skeleton with a natural steel finish that they say is inspired by the summer light in Neuchâtel, where the brand is based. ...

Grail Creep - The Myth Of The Endgame Watch Fratello
Jul 25, 2026

Grail Creep - The Myth Of The Endgame Watch

Admit it: you have one too! The mythic grail watch lives rent-free in any watch enthusiast’s mind. It’s that one watch that would be the pinnacle of our collecting lifestyle, fulfilling our wildest horological dreams. Maybe it could even be the endgame watch, finally keeping our hungry bellies filled forever. Unfortunately, we’re fighting our biological […] Visit Grail Creep — The Myth Of The Endgame Watch to read the full article.

Does Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas 34.5 Redefine Watch Sizing? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Vacheron Constantin s Overseas 34.5 Redefine Jul 25, 2026

Does Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas 34.5 Redefine Watch Sizing? (Hands-On)

Vacheron Constantin have bolstered their 34.5mm collection, but is ‘small’ the new ‘mid-size?’ Let’s find out! What We Love: A compact but unisex sizing Remarkable quality-of-life features Gorgeous red dial What We Don’t: A big ask for a small watch No Geneva Seal on the movement Can 34.5mm be considered midsize? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 10/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 The effects of a shrinking watch world have been felt across all brands. No, not ‘shrinking’ as in fewer watches, but rather the growing trend towards smaller case sizes. Everyone from the highest levels of luxury to the most obscure microbrands has shifted to accommodate the change, and, as a result, it has redefined what constitutes a ‘small’, ‘medium’, or ‘large’ watch. This isn’t an uncommon occurrence in the industry. In the past, even 40mm designs were often referred to as ‘jumbo’. As proportionality has become a greater priority for consumers, it has become just as important for watch brands. Vacheron Constantin, despite its age, has proven remarkably adept at responding to these shifts. In 2023, the brand introduced a new 34.5mm size to its flagship Overseas collection. Sitting between the significantly smaller 30mm models and the more traditionally masculine 41mm cases, the 34.5mm joins the collection as its ‘mid-size’ offering. It’s an unusual size for a watch, especially one positioned as the middle ground within...

Introducing - The Hanhart Aquasphere Dive Watch, now in Matte Black Monochrome
Jul 24, 2026

Introducing - The Hanhart Aquasphere Dive Watch, now in Matte Black

In 2024, German brand Hanhart went beyond its traditional pilot’s watches with the Aquasphere, a dive watch that combined robust specifications with the brand’s distinctive design. The new Aquasphere Matte Black, fundamentally unchanged, brings a darker, more restrained execution that emphasises functionality over flair. It swaps the original blue colourway with a black and white […]