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Time+Tide
A short while ago, Nick Foulkes, writing for How To Spend It, espoused that the last 24 months have seen a significant rise in the popularity and production of solid platinum watches. Foulkes postulates that this may be, to a degree, down to the relatively recent vogue of steel watches, as platinum - at least from … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Platinum is back, baby appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Explorer II often does the rounds at the top of ‘the most underrated Rolex model’ list, and it’s not difficult to see why. In addition to many of the attractive hallmarks of steel sports Rolex models, it also has just a dash more personality – is it the pop of orange that catches your eye? … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Peter’s Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570, “when I got it there wasn’t a huge amount of demand” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Preposterous, outrageous, and very, very cool, the G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ G-D5000-9JR was announced last year. The watch cost US$70,000 – about the same as a Patek Philippe ref. 5172G chronograph or a Voutilainen Vingt-8 in steel – which was a shocker. But with only 35 made, the Dream Project sold out faster than you can say DW-5000. Though the watches were allocated to clients via ballot in May 2019, the first watch was only delivered in January 2020, with the rest of the watches trickling out at a gradual pace until late 2021 when the final watch will be completed. The very first watches were delivered to retailers in Japan, but one recently arrived in Singapore, the only one sold in the city state. Most countries only got one, with very large markets like the United States getting two, and the rest going to Japan. Gold and iron Made entirely of 18k yellow gold – it weighs 297 g or about 10 oz – the Dream Project was first exhibited at Baselworld 2015 as a concept watch. According to watch magazine Chronos Japan, the idea for a gold G-Shock came from Yasuyuki Iima, the president of Eye Eye Isuzu, a noted watch retailer. His suggestion led to G-Shock inventor Kikuo Ibe embarking on a “dream project” – the solid-gold G-Shock. The watch took five years to make it to market primarily because of the challenge in making it as shockproof as a standard G-Shock – basically the watch’s functionality has to survive being thrown out a third-storey ...
SJX Watches
Montblanc’s recent line of vintage-inspired models, including last year’s perpetual calendar, now includes the Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph, an attractively retro mono-pusher chronograph that’s well-priced – considering the Minerva movement within. First launched in steel with a salmon dial, the chronograph gets a richer colour palette this year with a pink-gold case matched with a tobacco dial for a warm look no doubt inspired by aged watch dials that have faded from black to brown. Despite all the vintage detailing and “tropical” colours, the watch still doesn’t feel overly retro. The case is well suited to the vintage styling, measuring 40 mm wide thanks to the compact MB M13.21 movement. The calibre is nearly 10 mm smaller than the MB M16.29 movement built for pocket watches that Montblanc has relied on more frequently and results in much larger watches. The case is entirely polished, which contrasts against the matte dial executed in several finishes: a dark, matte surface on the periphery, followed by the grained chapter ring with applied pink gold markers, and finally the central portion in a sun ray-brushed finish. In keeping with the vintage look, the dial itself is slightly domed, a subtle detail that is evident in the sloping edges of the recessed counters. The retro style is further enhanced by a domed, “box-type” sapphire crystal. The arrowhead movement But as is always the case with Minerva-powered Montblanc watches, the highlight is ...
SJX Watches
Seiko has been on a hot streak with its remakes of vintage dive watches, including the Hi-Beat 6159 of 2018 and last year’s “Turtle” 6105. With 2020 being the 55th anniversary of its first dive watch, Seiko is reissuing three of its most well-liked vintage dive watches, the Hi-Beat 6215, the 62MAS 6217, and the “Tuna” 6159. All three remakes features notable upgrades, including the use of a new alloy named Ever-Brilliant Steel that is notably corrosion resistant. (And for those on a less-ambitious budget, the line-up also includes an affordable 62MAS remake – see this at the bottom of the story.) The vintage originals (from left): Hi-Beat 6215, the 62MAS 6217, and the “Tuna” 6159 Used for the first time in watchmaking according to Seiko, Ever-Brilliant Steel has a more silvery appearance than the steel alloy most commonly used in watchmaking – 316L or “surgical steel” – but more crucially, the alloy has better corrosion resistant. Specifically, Seiko says Ever-Brilliant Steel has a pitting resistance equivalent number (PREN) of 1.7 times 316L steel. With 316L steel having a PREN of around 25, Ever-Brilliant Steel should surpass 40 – usually the benchmark for materials uses for marine applications. The Ever-Brilliant Steel case of the SLA037 The 1965 Diver’s Re-creation “62MAS” (ref. SLA037 or SBEX009) is a remake of Seiko’s first ever dive watch. Measuring 39.9 mm by 14.7 mm, the case is larger than the original, and of course made from Ev...
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Revolution
Launched in 2018 in two versions of 25 pieces, one in polished steel version and the other one in gunmetal finish, the Urwerk UR-111C now comes in a two-tone version made of black PVD and brushed steel.
Hodinkee
It's not all steel and ceramic.
SJX Watches
Almost exactly a year after Breitling announced the Navitimer Ref. 806 remake – a spot-on remake of the first Navitimer and a smash hit – the watchmaker has applied the same formula for the AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition, a limited edition of 1,953 watches in steel. Introduced in 1953 and produced in several variants until 1965 when it was rebranded the Co-Pilot, the AVI ref. 765 was typical of mid 20th century pilot’s chronographs, with large Arabic numerals, syringe hands, and a steel rotating bezel. In fact, it is reminiscent of the Type 20 chronographs supplied by Breguet, Auricoste and other firms to the French navy and air force during the same period. Remade exactly And the AVI ref. 765 was oversized for the era, with a case measuring 41.1 mm. According to Breitling, the AVI Re-Edition replicates the original to the smallest detail, down to the tenth of a millimetre of case diameter. The steel bezel is even secured by three screws in exactly the same spots as on the original. Only two external elements on the remake have been changed: one is the removal of “Geneve” from the dial, a necessity given Breitling’s location; and the other is the increased water resistance of 30 m. That being said, modern production techniques and materials mean that rather than being perfectly identical, the replica is probably better in fit and finish than the original. The lacquer-filled engraving on the bezel, for instance, is more precisely done on the modern version. The vi...
Time+Tide
The GPHG-nominated DOXA SUB 200 has succeeded in capturing the watch world’s attention since its unveiling at Baselworld 2019, what with its vibrant dial options, 200 metres of water resistance, and fetching, vintage-inspired 42mm stainless steel case. There was just one niggling issue for some - the beads of rice bracelet was perhaps a tad … ContinuedThe post First look at the DOXA SUB 200 on summer-ready rubber straps appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Nomos is the brand of entry level luxury Bauhaus design. Typically offering decluttered dials, no nonsense design and some of the best value in the luxury watch world. So is the Nomos Tangente power reserve the German watch for you? Case The Nomos Tangente power reserve features a stainless steel case, 35mm in circumference and only 6.6mm thick. The case itself takes an interesting shape having a raised band of steel around the center of its construction leaving depressions above and below the mid case. This offers some visual interest to what is already a remarkably slim and slender watch. The model weighing only 40grams including the supplied leather strap, offers the wearer the opportunity to constantly forget that it’s on their wrist. The stainless steel is finished to a high polish on all sides. There is the presence of a typically industrial and lets face it, German no nonsense crown, which features deep cuts for easy manipulation. Everything about the case on this watch screams German watch design, nothing is overdone, nothing is unnecessary or flamboyant. That is, until you see the lugs. The lugs are a strong statement in design from the Glashutte manufacturer. They protrude from the case and drop sharply at 45 degrees. They give the watch a much longer stance than the 35mm case size would suggest. Because of this design choice the watch wears 44mm lug to lug. When on the wrist I found the face of the watch appears about 2mm too small for the lugs. Although t...
Video
This affordable German watch can do it all. Here, we're unboxing Nomos' Glashutte Ahoi Atlantic 567, a watch that can be dressed up, down and even taken for recreational diving, thanks to a rugged 36mm steel build tha...
Deployant
Parmigiani's staple elegant dress watch has a slim profile, complete with an attractive looking movement. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda is now available in a matte navy blue dial in a stainless steel case.
Time+Tide
While Patek Philippe are kept most popularly in the mind today through a handful of steel sports watches and the lyrics of chart-topping songs, the company has a history of remarkable innovation that is sometimes overlooked. In the middle of last century - 1950 to be precise - the Genevan firm released a solar-powered table clock, an … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The remarkable innovation of the Patek Philippe Solar Clock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This eye-catching special edition, launched at the Dubai Watch Week 2019, features a satin-finished steel case and lush starburst dial inspired by the green in the UAE flag – a colour chosen to inspire hope, growth and prosperity – and four Hindi Arabic numerals painted in Super-LumiNova. This is the first Bell & Ross model … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 17: A gorgeous green Middle Eastern Limited Edition Bell & Ross appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Introduction If there’s one thing that IWC has a handle on, it’s Pilot’s watches. Within the brands iconic Pilot’s collection is the popular Mark XVIII range, which serves as a charming entry point to the family. I recently had the pleasure of spending several weeks with the Mark XVIII (reference IW327009), which is the stainless steel, black dial model, on a leather strap. Having previously reviewed several other IWC Pilot’s pieces, including the Pilot’s Automatic Spitfire, I was curious to explore the brand’s entry-level offering further. The Dial & Hands Featuring a black dial with white luminescent markers, the Mark XVIII is simple and understated. The large white markers and numerals are easy to read at a glance, and perfectly contrast with the black dial. Even in full sun, it’s easy to read the dial, which under harsher light appears to turn matt. There’ll be no red-eyes come evening thanks to the generous luminescence and large markers. Since it’s release, the Mark XVIII’s date window has been a sticking point for some, primarily for its lack of symmetry, or it’s mere existence. Ultimately this comes down to personal taste, and after several weeks of wearing the Mark XVIII – I took no issue with it. The date window, admittedly a little out of place, blended in nicely with the rest of the dial, thanks to a matching date wheel. It’s also worth noting that this is an undeniable improvement on the it’s predecessor’s (the Mark XVII) date...
Time+Tide
With its striking appearance, the ‘Full Black’ Alpina 4 Manufacture Flyback Chronograph demonstrates an aggressive and distinctive personality. The model features an intense black PVD-coated case made out of stainless steel. The black dial with beige luminous pearl black applied indexes, matching the luminous beige hands, provides a stealthy, slightly vintage look. Note the ergonomically … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 14: The striking Alpina Manufacture Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
At Watches and Wonders 2026, NORQAIN didn't come quietly. They came with a tennis legend, a mountain backdrop, and two watches that prove the Swiss challenger brand is still swinging for the fences.
Time+Tide
Last year, fans were delighted with the release of the DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph, a steel cushion-cased chronograph with an iconic DOXA orange dial. Based on a historical reference from 1969, the SUB 200 T.Graph is part of the brand’s revitalisation over recent years, which included the release of the same chronograph, except in solid … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The Modern DOXA with a vintage movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
At SIHH 2019, George Cramer was pleased to see a stunning new historically inspired Santos-Dumont model in stainless steel. And to his Cartier-enamored eye it looks even better than the model from the now-defunct Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) line.
Deployant
Released in 2019, IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph Spitfire is available in both stainless steel and bronze. It features a similar layout to the previous generation 7750 movement Pilot's chronographs but with a reduced size at 41 mm and an in-house movement.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: In 2019 we saw the popularity of existing steel sports watches with blue dials hit fever pitch on the secondary market, as well as a number of brands release their own examples of the watch that everyone wants on their wrist. But what about when a brand produces a watch that doesn’t just … ContinuedThe post The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon is a sports watch to get the heart racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
While the El Primero and the Defy have been a major focus for the brand over the past year, Zenith has just revealed a total revamp of its most classical collection – the Elite. The facelifted models are the Elite Classic and Elite Moonphase, both offered in a smaller 36 mm size with a diamond-set bezel for ladies, and the larger 40.5 mm – both in either steel or rose gold. The remake of the Elite was thorough, encompassing both the case and dial. The redesigned case features a slim, polished bezel with tapered lugs that have a brushed top surface and bevelled edge for contrast and a more refined feel. The Elite Classic But the most visible change, however, are the dials, which have a stamped, radial pattern framed by a railway minute track, coupled with applied numerals. On the rose gold model, the result is reminiscent of the Rolex Cellini Moonphase. Overall, the new details improve the look and feel of the Elite significantly, lending it much more finesse and character. And while the original Elite had leaf-shaped hands and hour markers, the new model features dauphine hands paired with faceted markers, giving the watch a sleeker, more modern look. Visible through a sapphire case back, both sizes of the Elite Classic are powered by the ultra-thin Elite 670 automatic, which runs at 4 Hz and has a 48-hour power reserve. Slightly more complex, the Elite Moonphase has a small seconds at nine o’clock as well as a moon phase at six with a moon plated in gold or rhodiu...
Video
Every year, Cartier brings more watches to Watches and Wonders than most brands release in a decade. This year, they trimmed it back — "only" 70 SKUs. And yet, somehow, we still had to fight to keep our list to five...
SJX Watches
Inspired by early 20th century aviator’s watches, Zenith’s Pilot Type 20 collection gets new two versions at LVMH Watch Week. Available mostly in heavily retro guises, including in bronze or aged steel, the new pilot watches take a different tack. The Pilot Type 20 Rescue and Type 20 Rescue Chronograph are devoid of retro affectations, and are kept simple with steel cases and dark grey dials. Measuring 45 mm wide, both watches feature a brushed case band with a polished bezel as well as a polished, onion-shaped crown. Instead of the usual grained dials, they have slate-grey, sun ray-brushed dials that are accented with bolts of yellow, giving them a more modern look. As with the rest of the collection, the dials are characterised by cathedral-style hands and large applied Gothic numerals that are moulded from SuperLuminova. Powering the Pilot Type 20 Rescue is the Elite 679, an in-house, workhorse automatic movement with a 50 hour-power reserve, while the Pilot Type 20 Rescue Chronograph is equipped with the El Primero 4069, which is a variant of the El Primero 400 that lacks a date and an hour totaliser. The only element that’s “faux” patina is the distressed calfskin leather strap that was inspired by shearling flight jackets and helmets. Key facts and price Pilot Type 20 Rescue Ref. 03.2434.679/20.I010 Case diameter: 45mm Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 100m Movement: Elite 679 Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds Frequency: 28,800 beats p...
SJX Watches
Unveiled alongside the new variants of the Octo Finissimo in gold or steel, the Octo Finissimo Automatic Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic is another take on the all-ceramic model launched last year. While last year’s watch had a uniformly matte finish on the case and bracelet, the new ceramic Octo Finissimo has alternating sandblasted and polished surfaces, giving it a little bit more life, with the polished bits catching the light just right. The all-black look is made a little bit more interesting with the varied surface finish, but retains the extreme sleekness of the original ceramic Octo. Like the case, the dial is monochromatic, but made legible, to a degree, with different surface finishes. The dial itself has a matte, frosted surface, while the markings and hands have a glossy finish. The dimensions of the new ceramic Octo remain unchanged from the earlier model, at 40 mm wide and 5.5 mm high. Inside is the BVL138 movement found across the Octo Finissimo Automatic model range. Key facts and price Octo Finissimo Automatic Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic Ref. 103368 Case diameter: 40 mm Height: 5.5 mm Material: Black ceramic Water resistance: 30 m Movement: BVL138 Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) Winding: Automatic Power reserve: 60 hours Strap: Black ceramic bracelet Availability: At both retailers and boutiques Price: US$15,600, or 22,000 Singapore dollars For more, visit Bulgari.com.
SJX Watches
Continuing with the sleek and successful Octo Finissimo, Bulgari has just unveiled two new variants of the extra-flat wristwatch at LVMH Watch Week, a pre-Baselworld launch event for the luxury group’s three watch brands, which include Hublot and Zenith. The new Octo Finissimo Automatic Satin-Polished – in either steel or rose gold – is an iteration of earlier models, and is distinguished by its case finish, which is mostly brushed, but highlighted with mirror polished edges and flanks. With alternating brushed and polished surfaces, the new case finish catches the light nicely. In contrast, current versions of the Octo Finissimo Automatic have a uniformly matte, sandblasted finish that is more muted. While the finishing is new, the case is exactly the same size – 40mm by 5.25mm, giving it an incredibly slim profile on the wrist. The new case finishing is paired with a glossy, black-lacquered dial that has markings and hands to match the case material – either 18k rose gold with a leather strap, or in stainless steel with a matching bracelet. The bracelet is an integral part of the Octo Finissimo, so price and material aside, the steel model is more compelling from a design perspective. Both are powered by the BVL138, the ultra-thin automatic movement that’s standard for the Octo Finissimo. The movement is just 2.23mm high, and relies on a platinum micro rotor for winding. Key facts and price Octo Finissimo Automatic Satin-Polished Steel Ref. 103297 Octo Finiss...
Hodinkee
Moser's first automatic chronograph is a powerful new presence in the steel sports watch field.
Revolution
For decades the Vacheron Constantin Overseas has been one of the exemplars of luxury steel sports watches. And now the travel-oriented Dual Time comes with a stylish black dial.
Video
At first, I genuinely didn’t understand it… and even after wearing it for a few days, I’m still not sure how I feel.
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