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Fratello
Doxa recently announced a new line of divers in a smaller form factor - the 39mm Sub 200T. I got a chance to try the entire lineup. I also had a full-sized Sub 300T for comparison at hand. In short, I got to form a pretty comprehensive image of what this new Doxa diver is […] Visit Hands-On With The New Downsized Doxa Sub 200T to read the full article.
Fratello
The Certina DS-7 Chrono Padel Edition by Marta Ortega sheds light on a sport that has recently come to my attention. Padel is a big deal! Now the sport has a watch celebrating one of its most popular players. Marta also had a hand in designing the chronograph. I hadn’t heard much about padel until […] Visit The New Certina DS-7 Chrono Padel Edition By Marta Ortega to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
There is something undeniable about a blacked-out pilot’s watch. I don’t know exactly what makes the recipe work so well, but you don’t have to look far to see that it does. From that perspective, it’s no wonder that it’s a formula Hanhart, a brand well known for their pilot’s watches, would fall back on. The Swiss-German brand’s latest model takes this recipe and runs with it, building off the existing Preventor9 from a few years ago and tweaking it to produce what is undeniably a very compelling option. The Preventor9 S - the “S” stands for “schwarz,” the German word for black, not to be confused with “Schwartz,” the mystical force from the film Spaceballs - is about as simple a watch as you can find from Hanhart, and that’s a good thing. Hanhart is a brand best known for producing watches with a very specific look. They’re one of those brands you can typically spot across a room, with their distinctive fluted bezels and red pushers. The Preventor9 stood out when it was released precisely because it didn’t stand out. Gone was the heavily fluted bezel, the chronograph with its red pusher, and any sense of the extraneous. Of course, That’s not to say the Preventor9 is without any of Hanhart’s signature flair. The Preventor9 keeps Hanhart’s signature cathedral hands and features a small seconds display at the nine o’clock position. Historically, the small seconds display at nine o’clock was the result of one of two things: E...
Fratello
Green is the color of money, right? If so, shouldn’t green also be the most expensive color? Well, it isn’t at Hublot. The new Hublot Big Bang Unico Dark Green Ceramic 42mm costs €5,800 less than the same watch in orange. Hublot explained why during Watches and Wonders, but that story didn’t make me change […] Visit Start The Week With A Bang - A Hublot Big Bang Unico Dark Green Ceramic 42mm to read the full article.
SJX Watches
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe introduced the World Time with Date ref. 5330G-001, the brand’s first regular-production world time with a date. Although the model officially debuted last June with a 300-piece, purple-dial limited edition for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Japan, the ref. 5330G-001 brings this complication into the mainstream with global distribution and a more versatile colour palette. Initial thoughts The ref. 5330G is quintessential Patek Philippe is several ways. It embodies a complication synonymous with the brand that is presented in a slim case. The overall aesthetic is modern but clearly vintage inspired. And the movement incorporates a complication that is cleverly executed and necessarily thin to fit the case. So conceptually, it is appealing. The ref. 5330G is also appealing in terms of its tangible qualities. It has good proportions and a refined, polished appearance that is typical of modern Patek Philippe watches. What do I not like? The carbon pattern dial is intrinsically attractive – it is done well and modern in feel – but feels a bit overused. Earlier world time models, on the other hand, had dial patterns that were unique to the reference. And the other is the Patek Philippe pricing. At over US$76,000, the ref. 5330G is steeply priced for a relatively straightforward pair of complications, even considering the ingenious construction of the date. But it is a Patek Philippe, and the unrivalled brand name alone accounts ...
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Worn & Wound
Students everywhere are winding down their year, and the big day is just around the corner. Marking the transition to a new life stage is no small feat, and a graduation gift is a longstanding tradition. Shopping for a budding watch enthusiast is notoriously tricky, but we’ve got some ideas. Whether it’s a quality watch to make a first impression at a new job, or a thoughtful accessory to the young collector, here are a few of our picks from the Shop. From the Windup Team to all new graduates: congratulations and all the best in your future endeavors! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to set up demos and answer any questions you have. Students everywhere are winding down their year, and the big day is just around the corner. Marking the transition to a new life stage is no small feat, and a graduation gift is a longstanding tradition. Shopping for a budding watch enthusiast is notoriously tricky, but we’ve got some ideas. Whether it’s a quality watch to make a first impression at a new job, or a thoughtful accessory to the young collector, here are a few of our picks from the Shop. From the Windup Team to all new graduates: congratulations and all the best in your future endeavors! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to set up demos and answer any questions you have. The post Last Minute Graduation Gift Ideas appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Watches & Wonders is now a thing of the past, but luckily, watch releases are not slowing down at all, headlined by Omega and Credor.The post New releases from Credor, Louis Erard, Glashütte Original and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com The SpaceOne Tellurium, Explained One of the watches we were most looking forward to seeing in Geneva earlier this month was the sophomore release from SpaceOne, Guillaume Laidet’s brand focusing on making traditionally high end horological concepts accessible to everyone. Last year’s Jump Hour was a favorite, and the teases we had seen of the new Tellurium seemed to indicate a significant jump in complexity and refining of the overarching concept. We were not disappointed. In this video, Zach Kazan and Zach Weiss talk to Guillaume himself about the Tellurium, and he walks us through its unusual complication and what makes this watch special. Seeing this watch in action was a true highlight of Geneva Watch Week, and a great reminder that in addition to the glitz and flash seen at Palexpo, there are independent brands doing incredibly creative stuff at price points that are plenty approachable. The Chore Coat Gains Traction at…Restaurants? We love a chore coat at Worn & Wound. If you come to a Windup Watch Fair event (like the one happening in San Francisco in less than a wee...
Fratello
For many of us, “that special watch” is something we may have bought to mark an occasion. Perhaps it was a gift. For Tom Place, his special Rolex Submariner is out there, somewhere, at the bottom of a lake in the United States. He is hell-bent on recovering it one day. Some people like wearing […] Visit One Man’s Ongoing Quest To Find His Long-Lost Rolex Submariner to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Seiko Bell-Matic Alarm Watch The Seiko Bell-Matics are well known amongst collectors, however this model is one you don’t see very often. The uniquely styled case is a big ol’ cushion shaped chunk of steel, measuring 39mm wide. This example looks unpolished and has the original brushed finish. The bezel has a nice blue acrylic insert that looks really cool. The dial is a super dark blue, and is in great shape, with bold steel hands and a red seconds hand. The crown is at 3 o’clock, and the alarm button is recessed at 2 o’clock. The watch comes on the original broad link bracelet, which is always a bonus. The movement is clean and the seller states the watch runs and works properly. View auction here Vintage Vantage Chronograph Here we have a gorgeous vintage Vantage chronograph, with a stunning reverse panda style dial. The steel case has a slim bezel and slim, straight lugs, giving it that “poor man’s Carrera” look. The black dial with dual silver subdials is really sweet, and in great shape with nicely aged lume. Really a simple, classic chronograph that has a timeless design. The watch is powered by the workhorse Valjoux 7730, which is clean and recently serviced ...
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Fratello
Today, we’ll take a brief look at the Sarpaneva Dragonskin, a watch that owes its existence to a fellow watch journalist. It’s a fascinating watch with a great story. Plus, it brings together watchmaking and artisanal materials. What could be better? Justin Mastine-Frost is the Director of Digital Content for Sharp Magazine, one of Canada’s […] Visit Introducing: The Sarpaneva Dragonskin - The First Dial Of Its Kind to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Someday, a history of this period in affordable independent watchmaking will be written, and the chapter on Christopher Ward is going to be the longest in this hypothetical volume, for sure. They’ve been around since 2004, and in the ensuing twenty years have gone through just about every high and low a watch brand can experience. While the ultimate thrust of their story is one of incredible growth, those of us who have been around for a little while can probably remember a time when the thought of Christopher Ward winning GPHG awards and being the toast of the watchmaking town would have been fairly unheard of. The Bel Canto, introduced at the tail end of 2022, changed all that, but the brand had been on an upward trajectory for years before. They’ve come a very long way from being one of the most hotly discussed watch forum brands (so hot, in fact, they have their own forum for C. Ward enthusiasts) know primarily for somewhat generic, but always well made, dive watches. Over the years, they’ve stepped up every facet of their business, with particularly large steps taken in case finishing and movement design. In a very low key way, they are capable of doing things at the higher end of their range that other brands at similar price points simply can’t equal. While the Bel Canto deservedly gets a lot of the press, one my favorite little pockets of Christopher Ward over the last few years has been the inventive way they’ve incorporated the classic moonphase com...
Fratello
On this (Speedy) Tuesday, Omega is introducing a sparkling new bunch of Speedmaster 38 models. Two are in Sedna Gold, two are in Moonshine Gold, and four variations are in stainless steel. If any of you are looking for a sport-chic, diamond-set watch with firm roots in chronograph and space history, your time might be […] Visit Introducing: New Omega Speedmaster 38 Models In Full Gold And Steel to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Amida, a historical brand recently brought back to life, has introduced its first watch in more than 45 years, the Digitrend. Based on a historical design from 1976, the new Digitrend features an upright digital jump-hour display and a retro-futuristic design. While the formula for reviving dormant brands is nothing new, the team behind Amida, led by designer Matthieu Allègre and also includes Clément Meynier and Bruno Herbet, has managed to hit all the right aesthetic notes at a reasonable price. Initial thoughts I’ve always been attracted to retro-futuristic design, and watches like the original Digitrend have a distinct appeal. Unfortunately, the quality of the originals left much to be desired. In this context I appreciate what Mr Allègre and his team have accomplished. Specifically, they’ve managed to improve the design, including the small details like the typography, without diluting the original aesthetic. Additionally, the build quality has improved over the original. The brushed steel case of the new Digitrend is simple but done well. Most importantly, they’ve installed a much higher quality movement, which is comprised of a Soprod P092 base movement with an in-house designed jump-hour module that adds just nine additional parts. This minimalist approach is commendable and should aid reliability and serviceability. The hour and minute discs rotate in the same plane as typical hands, but are then ‘projected’ to the vertical time display with a sapphir...
SJX Watches
In 2021, Louis Erard collaborated with a Swiss design studio on the Le Régulateur x atelier oï, a strikingly minimalist regulator-style watch with a dial devoid of scales, indices, or branding. Originally presented in a restrained grey, this collaboration now returns with a brighter, gilt finish inspired by sundials in a notably small run of just 18 pieces. Initial thoughts Louis Erard’s newest offering has a captivating aesthetic that is both minimalist and striking, albeit not particularly legible. Unlike its predecessor, this has a more richer look with a golden dial that contrasts with the blued steel hands. The colour diverts the eyes towards the asymmetrical radial pattern engraved on the dial. The rest of the watch is identical to the earlier edition, which also means the same case as the standard regulator model. The downside of that is the thickness, which at over 12 mm is substantial for a watch with a relatively elegant design. The Atelier Oï regular is priced at CHF3,750, which is the prevailing price for most Louis Erard regulator editions, like the Oliver Mosset released in January. The new offering is a compelling timepiece for someone looking for something more artistic than the conventional offerings on the market. Inspired by a sundial The newest release follows on Louis Erard’s first collaboration with the Swiss design studio in 2021. With the exception of the dial colour, the watch retains the same specs as before. It has a regulator-style dial...
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Teddy Baldassarre
The Oris Aquis collection of sporty dive watches is one of the Swiss brand’s most popular - and notably hosted the first Oris watch outfitted with the in-house Caliber 400 - even though it traces its history back just over a decade, to 2011. Like many watch models that catch on strongly with both collectors and casual fans, however, it actually represents the successful evolution of several models that preceded it. Here’s everything you need to know about the Oris Aquis, from its history, to the most prominent models available now, to its central role in Oris’ environmental sustainability initiatives. ORIS ORIGINS AND AQUIS EVOLUTION Oris, one of the watch world’s few remaining major independent brands, traces its history back to 1904, when it was founded in Hölstein, in the German-speaking Swiss canton of Basel-Landschaft, by Paul Catlin and Georges Christian. The company, which the co-founders named after a brook near the factory, expanded throughout the early 1900s, at one point becoming the largest employer in Hölstein, with over 300 employees and factories throughout Switzerland. In 1925, Oris began making wrist watches, and in 1928, under the leadership of Christian’s brother-in-law Oscar Herzog, a new era of expansion and innovation began. Oris started making its own escapements in the watershed year of 1938, which also saw the release of the brand’s iconic Big Crown watch with pointer date function. The first automatic Oris watch was launched i...
Worn & Wound
Not everyone loves a nice integrated bracelet watch in their collection, and there’s a few reasonable reasons why that may be. For one, you’re going to be stuck with the same bracelet for the rest of the watch’s natural life unless there’s an OEM leather or rubber equivalent offered by the brand (or perhaps on the aftermarket). Secondly, the integrated bracelet look can be somewhat of an acquired taste, not everyone is into that – and depending on the model the watch can appear dated, reminiscent of those oval cased watches of the past like the Universal Geneve Ultra-Slim Shadow on the Milanese bracelet. But, for those of us who have caught the integrated bug, there’s no telling the depths we will explore in order to find that perfect integrated bracelet watch. This is a segment that will require a little more patience and finesse to discover. Once you buy the watch you have your sights set on, you can’t change much about the look afterwards, and the saying buy once, cry once really fits this category here. Santos De Cartier Starting the list off with an absolute classic, and if you want to start here – and end here, I’d have a hard time disagreeing with you. The Santos De Cartier is an absolute icon in the watch world, dating all the way back to 1904 when it was designed by Louis Cartier for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Its roots are deeply ingrained in the evolution of aviation and it retains the title of the world’s first pilot wa...
Worn & Wound
Kelly Haygarth, founder of Byrd Watch Co., is a tour de force. You will not find a more welcoming person who’s full of passion when it comes to bringing folks together in this hobby. I’ve been fortunate enough to hang out with Kelly and her husband, Peter, a few times and they’re both the life of the party. While this interview was full of laughs, Kelly definitely manages to exude a sense of community and takes time to get serious about what it means to be an entrepreneur in this space. Watches “My first real watch was this little 28mm Victorinox that Peter gifted me in 2013. I now realize this was his attempt at grooming me into the hobby,” Kelly told me. But, as she would later recall (and in spite of Peter’s grooming efforts), her love of watches began in earnest in 2019. “Peter grew up appreciating them [watches], and I never really understood. […] One day Peter called me and said he had found this Tag Heuer Carrera Twin Time, and I didn’t know what any of that meant. He found it in a pawn shop and it looked all grubby, and said it was $600. I was like WHAT?!?! How much?! On a watch?!” Kelly began laughing, “Wow. I think back to that innocence, and wow.” She went on to describe how Peter brought the watch home and disassembled it on their kitchen island and cleaned it to the point where it was beautiful. Kelly didn’t think much of it at first, but one day Peter asked if she wanted to wear it. “I didn’t take it off. It became my watch. ...
SJX Watches
Established in 2015, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is an annual affair to recognise the next generation of watchmakers. Applicants present a timepiece of their own design and construction, which is judged by on its complexity, craftsmanship, and aesthetics by a jury including Philippe Dufour, Giulio Papi, and Francois-Paul Journe. While last year’s winner was a Swiss-Italian clockmaker, this year’s winner is 23-year-old Frenchman Thomas Aubert, who entered his wristwatch Séléné, a unique piece crafted in his final year at the Edgar Faure High School in Morteau, France. Amongst the standout features of the Séléné is its key-winding and -setting as well as the clever “shooting star” display on the back. The Séléné pays tribute to classical watchmaking in both style and technique, but each reinterpreted with a modern twist. As is often the case with such school watches, the movement is based on the Unitas 6497, although it underwent extensive reworking. For example, the timepiece doesn’t feature a crown; instead winding and time-setting are done via a key that goes into dedicated slots on the case back. The front of the Séléné is classical and tastefully done, with a “grated” finish on the dial that is set on a frosted plate backdrop. The exposed balance bridge is mirror polished and chamfered. The screwed balance beats at 2.5 Hz and features a prominent Breguet overcoil hairspring. Mr Aubert is fascinated by astronomy, a passion that he...
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Matty Matheson’s Pantry Staples If you’re a fan of the FX series “The Bear,” Matty Matheson needs no introduction. He plays Fak, the heavily tattooed handyman on the series, but his most significant contribution to the series might actually be behind the scenes. Matheson is a chef, and serves as a consultant on the show in addition to his acting duties, ensuring that the kitchen scenes and culinary creations depicted feel authentic. Now he’s launched his own brand, the Matheson Food Company, which will produce all kinds of simple pantry staples (sauces, salad dressings, boxed mac & cheese) with branding that draws heavily on our collective nostalgia for classic brands that were part of his childhood. This piece in Creative Review digs into the new brand and what makes it distinct in the food scene. The First Trailer for M. Night Shyamalan’s Trap It’s possible that the trailer for Trap, the new film from M. Night Shyamalan coming this summer, gives too much away. In the event you want to be completely surprised, I won’t describe it here. But it’s also possible that th...
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Quill & Pad
When starting out on a watch journey, one of the first questions to consider is the choice between quartz and automatic watches, with the perception that mechanical watches are "better" and more expensive, while quartz watches are entry-level and lower quality. While this may hold some truth, luxury brands also produce high-end quartz pieces that are equally impressive from a technological standpoint.
Time+Tide
Trend forecasting is always a fun and perilous game in the watch industry. With the industry seemingly in such a volatile state, it can be hard to predict the direction of the wind, but Vogue Business’s intrepid Laure Guilbault felt like reaching out to the experts in order to figure out what might happen in … ContinuedThe post Vogue talks to Andrew about trends for 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
I have mixed feelings this year. I had to watch from afar as I was writing remotely and not part of the lovely circus that is Watches and Wonders. But despite a few of our editors noting a rather lukewarm personal reception, I was surprised by some gems at the show and have some grail-worthy […] Visit Fratello Favorites: Thor’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Getting outside Palexpo is essential during Watches & Wonders week. Not only because being inside the massive complex for days on end will quickly wreak havoc on your mental and physical health (it’s dry in there, and not seeing any natural light can’t be great for you), but because there’s so much watch related stuff happening in Geneva parallel to what’s going on at Watches & Wonders. Many smaller indies post up at hotels along Lake Geneva and take meetings with media and their dealer networks, and over the last three years these meetings have been some of our favorites to attend. One of them, with Louis Erard, produced an almost obscene level of interest. I think each of mentally bought a watch in the hour we spent chatting with CEO Manuel Emch. The watch you see here, a new collaboration between Louis Erard and atelier Oï, is the only watch we can show you from that meeting. Everything else is under embargo, but will be revealed throughout the rest of the year. But man, I was glad to see this new limited edition on the table almost immediately after sitting down. It’s the same design as a watch in my own collection, featuring a dial made up of deeply cut striated ridges that fan out like a, well, like a fan, I guess. No markers or branding, but each ridge is effectively a minute marker, so telling the time is fairly straightforward after a brief adjustment period. This LE has a gold tone dial, which leaves a very different impression than my silvery gray v...
Monochrome
In the past decade, we have witnessed several trends in the watch industry; blue and then green dials, slightly smaller cases making a comeback, integrated bracelets… And mostly, a strong focus of brands on casual, if not sporty watches. For too long, the elegant dress watch has been forgotten. But it seems that it is […]
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