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5 Watches To Start A Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 17, 2024

5 Watches To Start A Collection

Having a collection of watches isn’t generally something you plan on. It’s something that emerges over time, and it’s rarely a linear path. While it may seem natural to focus on finding the perfect watch or watches to fill out your watch box, the reality is that all watches have their faults, and the real key is learning which of those you can live with, and which you can’t. In time, some of those, let’s call them quirks, can even become endearing. With that in mind, instead of looking at watches that will begin a collection, let us take a look at watches that will end up lasting in your collection. Sure, they could start your collection, but they could just as easily end it, whether that collection consists of two watches, or 50.  With that, here are 5 watches that would kick off any collection with a bang, and that I feel would have a high likelihood of sticking around for the long term.  Disclaimer: these selections will lean a bit toward the tool watch end of the spectrum, as those are the watches that I find the most well-rounded and practical for my purposes. If you’re looking for some classier recommendations in the same vein, keep an eye out for a future installment.  Brew Metric The Brew Metric is a remarkably fun, simple watch that represents the sheer creativity happening in the small independent brand space. This is a great watch to start with for a few reasons. First, it can be had in a wide variety of colorways, which range from classic and de...

Introducing: A Flash Of Gold With The Venezianico Nereide Aureo Fratello
Venezianico Nereide Aureo Jul 17, 2024

Introducing: A Flash Of Gold With The Venezianico Nereide Aureo

The Venezianico Nereide Aureo is the latest release from the small Venetian brand. It’s also a dive watch with interesting materials and processes that come together at an affordable price. Let’s check out this intriguingly colored watch. We’ve looked at several Venezianico watches on Fratello and have been impressed with them. Today’s Nereide Aureo uses […] Visit Introducing: A Flash Of Gold With The Venezianico Nereide Aureo to read the full article.

A Hands-On Comparison Of The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT In Two Different Sizes Fratello
Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT Jul 17, 2024

A Hands-On Comparison Of The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT In Two Different Sizes

By now, you are probably aware that Christopher Ward is hard to beat in terms of affordable luxury watches. One of the brand’s most popular series is the C63 Sealander, and within it, the GMT models are particularly in demand. We never reviewed the watch, so it was about time that we did. But not […] Visit A Hands-On Comparison Of The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT In Two Different Sizes to read the full article.

Insight: Governors of Minute Repeaters, Sonneries, and Other Striking Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin cal 1731 Jul 17, 2024

Insight: Governors of Minute Repeaters, Sonneries, and Other Striking Watches

Repeaters are one of the most complicated mechanisms in watches and over the years the complication has been refined by successive generations of watchmakers. Now, perhaps more than ever, watchmakers dedicate absolute attention to perfecting the quality, speed, accuracy, and durability of the striking works. Various components are required to chime the tunes of time with hammers and gongs. Paradoxically, amongst the most crucial parts of a chiming watch are those that work quietly, or silently, in the background – the governor. One of the most recent new repeater calibres, the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater What is a governor? The governor regulates the speed of the striking pattern, in other words the pace of the individual chimes. A repeater movement contains a separate gear train for the repeating works, which are powered by their own smaller, auxiliary spring. The last component of this train consists of the governor. The governor’s task is to introduce resistance in the repeater train, allowing it to be regulated. Therefore, less resistance accelerates the striking speed, while more resistance slows down the repeater chimes. The Vacheron Constantin cal. 1731 with the secondary spring visible between the hammers The fine-tuning of the repeater’s speed is prized as an essential factor in ensuring a perfect series of chimes. If the pace is too fast, the vibrations of the gongs produce jarring overtones that cancel each other out. If too slow, not o...

Introducing – The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee Brings Back 1972 Memories, with a Twist Monochrome
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Jul 17, 2024

Introducing – The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee Brings Back 1972 Memories, with a Twist

1972 was the year of the final Apollo mission, the dramatic Summer Olympics in Munich and the Watergate scandal. For what concerns us here at MONOCHROME, it was the year when a certain Ferdinand Alexander “Butzi” Porsche became independent and founded the Porsche Design Studio. His first product was a watch, the first black-coated watch […]

Hands-On With The New Squale 1521 Marina Militare Limited Edition Fratello
Squale Jul 17, 2024

Hands-On With The New Squale 1521 Marina Militare Limited Edition

Squale is a brand that holds a warm spot in my heart. I sold Squale watches when I worked at Amsterdam Watch Company. I was involved in the marketing of a limited edition back then, and I have gotten to know the team. It is one of those sympathetic smaller companies that rely on personal […] Visit Hands-On With The New Squale 1521 Marina Militare Limited Edition to read the full article.

Hands-On With Three ’80s-Inspired Casio G-Shock GD-B500 Models Fratello
Casio G-Shock GD-B500 Models What Jul 16, 2024

Hands-On With Three ’80s-Inspired Casio G-Shock GD-B500 Models

What happens if you elongate the design of a G-Shock “Square”? You get the new GD-B500 series. No, I’m just kidding. That’s an unfair and cheeky observation. However, the G-Shock Square is an immediate association as it is such an iconic silhouette. As a result, it’s tempting to compare any square or rectangular digital watch […] Visit Hands-On With Three ’80s-Inspired Casio G-Shock GD-B500 Models to read the full article.

Furlan Marri Introduces an Updated Take on the Disco Volante Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Introduces Jul 16, 2024

Furlan Marri Introduces an Updated Take on the Disco Volante

The latest from Furlan Marri pays tribute to a classic watch design while adding just enough of a twist to make it feel contemporary. The new Disco Volante takes a circular, flying saucer-like case that first became popular in the 1930s as its starting point, and tweaks the formula slightly. Thinking about Furlan Marri’s previous work and the design language they’ve established, the Disco Volante makes a lot of sense in their ongoing project of updating classic Art Deco ideas, and the watch really fits into the current moment as well, which has seen shaped cases and unusual designs pulled from the past and brought up to date for new audiences.  The circular cases seen here have hidden lugs on the back side, so these sit as a perfect circle on the wrist. Cases with no visible lugs, of course, tend to wear a bit smaller, so Furlan Marri has chosen to make these Disco Volantes in 38mm as opposed to the more traditional 36mm cases found on vintage watches in this style. In theory, this should open up the Disco Volante to both men and women who are used to wearing modern watches, but seek something a little unusual and heavily vintage inspired. The integrated crown that sits flush with the case further reinforces the Disco Volante’s shape, as does the gently curved bezel.  Three dial options are available at launch: Havana Disco, Disco Celeste, and Disco Verde. The Havana Disco is perhaps the most striking of the bunch, and acts as a link to Furlan Marri’s very first ...

First Look – The New Furlan Marri Disco Volante Monochrome
Furlan Marri Disco Volante Co-founded Jul 16, 2024

First Look – The New Furlan Marri Disco Volante

Co-founded by Swiss industrial designer Andrea Furlan and watch collector Hamad Al Marri, Furlan Marri launched on Kickstarter in 2021 with a beautifully designed vintage chronograph powered by a hybrid mecha-quartz engine. The next act, in 2022, was an equally handsome vintage black sector dial equipped with a mechanical movement that won over the MONOCHROME […]

Vintage Watches: A Pair Of Movado Sport Models With Borgel Cases Fratello
Movado Jul 16, 2024

Vintage Watches: A Pair Of Movado Sport Models With Borgel Cases

I have handled a lot of watches over the past 30 years. To my knowledge, though, I had never held a Borgel-cased watch until sometime last year. Now I own two Borgel pieces, and they’re worth sharing. Both are Movado Sport models from the ’50s and are lovely regardless of the case maker. My interest […] Visit Vintage Watches: A Pair Of Movado Sport Models With Borgel Cases to read the full article.

Introducing – The Accessible Tissot Heritage 1938 COSC, Now in a Fresh White-Blue Edition Monochrome
Tissot Heritage 1938 COSC Now Jul 16, 2024

Introducing – The Accessible Tissot Heritage 1938 COSC, Now in a Fresh White-Blue Edition

Released last year, the Tissot Heritage 1938 COSC is a watch that’s hard to not objectively find brilliant. Combining a nice retro design with modern specs and a truly fair price, it even comes equipped with a chronometer-certified movement – making it one of the most accessible Swiss chronometers on the market. This handsome, affordable […]

Fratello On Air: Revisiting Our Exit Watches - Patek Philippe, Rolex, And More Fratello
Patek Philippe Rolex Jul 16, 2024

Fratello On Air: Revisiting Our Exit Watches - Patek Philippe, Rolex, And More

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This time, we discuss exit watches after receiving a great topic request from one of our favorite listeners. It’s a familiar theme we may have touched upon before. Let’s see if our collective tastes have changed. For our listeners, watch content starts after eight minutes. Exit watches […] Visit Fratello On Air: Revisiting Our Exit Watches - Patek Philippe, Rolex, And More to read the full article.

Hands-On With Delugs Delcro Straps - The Smartwatch Strap Makes A Move Toward Luxury Fratello
Jul 16, 2024

Hands-On With Delugs Delcro Straps - The Smartwatch Strap Makes A Move Toward Luxury

Last year, I bought a digital sports watch to keep track of my running and rowing sessions. Since I’m very much an amateur athlete, I went with a Coros Pace 3, an entry-level exercise tracker. I got it on a Velcro strap because I heard it helps with adjustability, and honestly, it’s very comfortable and […] Visit Hands-On With Delugs Delcro Straps - The Smartwatch Strap Makes A Move Toward Luxury to read the full article.

A Look At The New Momentum UDT Eclipse Synch Solar Two Broke Watch Snobs
Jul 16, 2024

A Look At The New Momentum UDT Eclipse Synch Solar

Momentum has finally answered the call of watch enthusiasts and divers alike with the much-anticipated return of the UDT. For quite a while, fans have clamored for a reissue, and the new Momentum UDT looks like it's the kind of watch that won't disappoint. Momentum states that this modern iteration maintains its predecessor's robust, military-grade toughness while incorporating several thoughtful updates.

Astor+Banks Launches the Sea Ranger M2 Worn & Wound
Jul 15, 2024

Astor+Banks Launches the Sea Ranger M2

Astor+Banks has debuted the long awaited Sea Ranger M2, a watch that brand founder Andrew Perez has been working on, tinkering with, and previewing for over a year. At this weekend’s Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, he finally had production versions on display for all to see, and it was well worth the wait. It’s easily the most refined and well thought out watch in the Astor+Banks catalog, a natural evolution of what came before and a logical extension of the Sea Ranger line. This is a dual crown diver in four colorways: black, blue, army green, and a rich brown the brand refers to as “tobacco.” As you’d expect, one crown controls the time setting and winding duties, while the other rotates the internal bezel, which is lumed on all four variants. This is a really fun effect and the lume is applied liberally for a bright glow that will be genuinely useful in low light situations. The dials all have a matte finish.  The case is 40mm in diameter, 12.5mm tall, and 45.5mm lug to lug. On the wrist it feels very well proportioned, and the overall machining quality and finishing is top notch, and feels like a step up from previous Astor+Banks efforts. The bracelet is a match for the case in finishing quality and has a lovely taper from 20mm down to 16mm at the clasp. Astor+Banks, responding to feedback from collectors, is using the NodeX clasp by Nodus on the Sea Ranger M2, which offers easy micro-adjustments up to 10mm.  The Astor+Banks Sea Ranger M2 has a retail price ...

Christopher Ward Launches a New 38mm Version of The Twelve with the “Ice Cream Collection” Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Launches Jul 15, 2024

Christopher Ward Launches a New 38mm Version of The Twelve with the “Ice Cream Collection”

In recent years, the Windup Watch Fair has played host to a number of notable debuts from some of our favorite watch brands. It’s a great time to launch a watch, after all. With hordes of watch enthusiasts descending on Chicago’s Venue West over the weekend, brands had a captive audience to launch splashy new releases. Christopher Ward, a Windup mainstay for years, keenly understands this, and jumped at the chance this weekend to debut colorful new versions of The Twelve in a new 38mm case size. The enthusiast favorite size rounds out a varied collection of integrated bracelet sports watches that have driven a lot of interest in the brand since they launched a little over a year ago, and Christopher Ward, as always, is having some fun with color in this new batch.  The brand has dubbed these the “Ice Cream Collection” for their bright colors, all of which are inspired by ice cream and thus feel perfectly timed as a summer watch release. The new, cleverly named colors are Biel-Berry, Mint 38, Peach Sellita, and Made in Mangohead. They all feature the now familiar Christopher Ward flag motif repeated across the dial, and come on integrated stainless steel bracelets as well as color matched rubber straps. We had a chance to see these in the metal in Chicago over the weekend, and, pardon the cliche watch writer terminology, the colors really do pop. My personal favorite is easily the Peach dial, but talking to fair attendees over the weekend it was clear that all of t...

This Monday Is A Rest Day In The Tour De France - Time To Check Out The Bravur La Grande Boucle IV Fratello
Bravur Jul 15, 2024

This Monday Is A Rest Day In The Tour De France - Time To Check Out The Bravur La Grande Boucle IV

At Swedish watch brand Bravur, they’re really into cycling, and that craziness has materialized in plenty of watches with a cycling theme. The new Bravur La Grande Boucle IV is a steel chronograph in the long-running Grand Tour Chronograph collection. This chronograph subtly tries to capture the spirit of the Tour de France, nicknamed La […] Visit This Monday Is A Rest Day In The Tour De France - Time To Check Out The Bravur La Grande Boucle IV to read the full article.

First Look – The Doxa SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler, the Second Chapter of the Story Monochrome
Doxa SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Jul 15, 2024

First Look – The Doxa SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler, the Second Chapter of the Story

Nothing does more for a brand’s image than having a famous name spontaneously endorse your product. Although Doxa was not the first Swiss brand to produce a professional dive watch, it was the first to introduce a dive watch with a unidirectional rotating bezel to ensure safe no-decompression ascents in 1967. Doxa’s SUB 300, with […]

Upgrade Or Switch Styles With The Forstner Model J And Model O For The Seiko SKX Fratello
Seiko SKX Jul 14, 2024

Upgrade Or Switch Styles With The Forstner Model J And Model O For The Seiko SKX

The Seiko SKX is one of the most popular entry-level mechanical watches ever. There is a good chance that you, as a Fratello reader, have owned one at some point or still do. In any case, this is true for me. However, the original bracelet of that watch has always been controversial. It is infamously […] Visit Upgrade Or Switch Styles With The Forstner Model J And Model O For The Seiko SKX to read the full article.

Could A Vintage Longines Made Of Silver Scratch That Piaget Itch At A Fraction Of The Price? Fratello
Longines Made Jul 14, 2024

Could A Vintage Longines Made Of Silver Scratch That Piaget Itch At A Fraction Of The Price?

I am not usually one to veer towards sterling silver watches nor the more angular cases of 1960s and ’70s dress pieces. So this article will feature not one but two new elements in a watch for me to explore. This vintage Longines has a charm that has gradually won me over. While I don’t […] Visit Could A Vintage Longines Made Of Silver Scratch That Piaget Itch At A Fraction Of The Price? to read the full article.