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Quill & Pad
It still surprises Martin Green just how fast the Odysseus has become a staple collection for A. Lange & Söhne. It has only been three short years, during which time Lange has already launched stainless steel and white gold versions. And at Watches and Wonders 2022, A. Lange & Söhne presented a surprising Odysseus in titanium.
SJX Watches
Just released at Watches & Wonders 2024, the Rolex GMT-Master II in steel with a grey and black bezel (ref. 126710GRNR) is the newest addition to the famous line of dual time zone watches. More restrained in terms of colour, the new GMT-Master sports a 24-hour bezel with a grey-and-black Cerachrom insert. It’s still immediately recognisable, but a bit more discreet than its siblings in the collection, especially the famous “Pepsi” that is perhaps too recognisable. Like several other Rolex sports models, the 126710GRNR sports green accents on the dial and GMT hand. And the 126710GRNR is available on either a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. Initial thoughts The GMT-Master II is a almost perfect, with little that needs revision. While some expected a “Coke” GMT this year, the 126710GRNR is a solid proposition for anyone who wants a GMT-Master dressed more subtly. The bi-colour bezel is functional without being too loud unlike the better-known GMT-Master “Pepsi”. Flashy or recognisable watches sometimes attract unwanted attention, so dialling back the bezel colours is smart. In fact, the 126710GRNR may as well be more appealing than the discontinued 116710LN with its all-black bezel. Although I prefer the all-black bezel of the 116710LN, the grey and black bezel of the 126710GRNR is more functional as it separates day and night. The Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” 126710BLRO The green accents are a nice touch and also logical since green is the Rolex corporate c...
Worn & Wound
One of my favorite stops at Watches & Wonders is always Ressence. Located in the hall of smaller booths that mostly house independent brands, their clever and unique designs always stand out. This year, they didn’t have any novelties to speak of, though it was my first opportunity to see their most recent releases: the Type 1 Round Multi-Color, and Type 3 Eucalyptus. Both left an impression, but the subtly whimsical hues in the Type 1 Round Multi-Color won me over, becoming one of the watches I’ve thought about most since the fair. Since there weren’t any releases just for Watches & Wonders, we decided to sit down with brand founder Benoit Mintiens and discuss what Ressence does. We talked a bit about their approach to design and the concepts behind their simple-on-the-surface timepieces. Their watches are truly different from anything else, so, unsurprisingly, so are their goals. Check that conversation out below. The post Video Interview with Ressence’s Benoît Mintiens appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
With Watches & Wonders and the associated speculation around discontinuations and new releases firmly in the rearview mirror, the secondary watch market in April 2024 has continued to follow the longer term trend of decline. In this report, we summarize the high level trends from last month, give an update on the Rolex Pepsi, and cover some of the best and worst performing collections in April.
Worn & Wound
One of my favorite Watches & Wonders experiences these past few years was the brief time I got to spend with the Moser Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon. All tourbillons are special, of course, but this one is especially unique and I found it to be genuinely kind of awe inspiring in person. As the name of the watch implies, the cylindrical hairspring wraps around the balance spindle vertically, giving what is already a fairly dramatic watch an even more profound sense of depth. It’s a particularly challenging watchmaking feat to pull off, but pays dividends, according to Moser, in reducing friction and improving isochronism, both of which play a role in a more stable rate through the duration of the movement’s power reserve. In the last few weeks, Moser has been busy introducing two new versions of their most impressive tourbillon, this time as part of the Streamliner collection of watches, and in both cases in partnership with the BWT Alpine F1 Team. The watches take a similar aesthetic approach seen in the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon, with a skeletonized dial that prominently highlights the flying tourbillon at 6:00, and a decentralized dial at the 12:00 position. The difference of course is that now we have this complication in a Streamliner case (and on a rubber strap) for a watch (a pair of watches, actually) that might just be the sportiest Moser has ever made. Both versions of the watch use synthetic, translucent minerals for the small decentralized dials. For...
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SJX Watches
A no-frills time-only watch, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is now the brand’s entry-level model that’s available in a variety of dial styles and sizes, including the sought-after “Bubbles” dial. But Rolex has been making watches for long enough that the Oyster Perpetual from many moons ago is now a six- or seven-figure watch. Two of these special Oyster Perpetuals figure prominently in Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction. They are final two lots on the last day of the sale: lot 218 is the Oyster Perpetual ref. 6098 “Galaxy”, and lot 219 is the Oyster ref. 6102 cloisonné “La Caravelle” with bombe lugs. The Oyster ref. 6098 “Galaxy” The Oyster ref. 6102 “La Caravelle”. Both are time-only watches with Oyster cases, but the opposite of no-frills. They date from the 1950s, when Rolex was experimenting with a diverse range of dials for the Oyster Perpetual (and perhaps the recent 1908 in platinum is a return to form?) The “Galaxy” gets its name from the star-shaped indices on the glossy black dial, while “La Caravelle” refers to the cloisonné enamel dial made by a leading enameller of the period, Margueritte Koch. Today’s Oyster Perpetual with the “Celebration” dial of coloured bubbles Star-crossed Rolex watches with star dials are marvellous watches (which is why it was the inspiration for our Habring² Erwin “Star”). The most famous and expensive type of Rolex with such a dial is the ref. 6062 “Stelline” triple calendar. Less widel...
Time+Tide
It wouldn’t be an unfounded opinion to say that vintage reissues have become a bit stale after a decade of non-stop re-releases. Sure, vintage watches are fantastic, and new watches with vintage looks? Debatably even better. So when TAG Heuer released the Carrera Chronograph Glassbox at last year’s Watches and Wonders, it had a raucous … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda leans into its vintage cues appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Social media can be a wonderful tool. When we discovered the initial pictures of the new chronograph movement from Manufacture Fleury a few weeks back, it immediately tickled our interest. Now that the dust from Watches and Wonders has settled, we have contacted Jean-Marc Fleury to find out more… A few days later, we hit […]
Fratello
The months leading up to Watches and Wonders are exciting ones in the Fratello office. Every week, we receive new teasers and press releases. This year, there were also a lot of brand-organized previews. That’s great because the more we know upfront, the better we can inform you, our readers, about these new watches. However, […] Visit Hands-On: The Cartier Tank Américaine In Platinum With A Salmon Art Deco Dial to read the full article.
Fratello
Maybe you’ve heard of it, but Kapton is not a material I’m familiar with. Before being introduced to the Louis Moinet Moon Tech during last month’s Watches and Wonders, I did not know the material existed, let alone its different purposes, such as insulation, chemical resistance, and heat control. It’s used by NASA too, you […] Visit A Rocket-Fast Hands-On Impression Of The Louis Moinet Moon Tech to read the full article.
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Fratello
Green is the color of money, right? If so, shouldn’t green also be the most expensive color? Well, it isn’t at Hublot. The new Hublot Big Bang Unico Dark Green Ceramic 42mm costs €5,800 less than the same watch in orange. Hublot explained why during Watches and Wonders, but that story didn’t make me change […] Visit Start The Week With A Bang - A Hublot Big Bang Unico Dark Green Ceramic 42mm to read the full article.
SJX Watches
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe introduced the World Time with Date ref. 5330G-001, the brand’s first regular-production world time with a date. Although the model officially debuted last June with a 300-piece, purple-dial limited edition for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Japan, the ref. 5330G-001 brings this complication into the mainstream with global distribution and a more versatile colour palette. Initial thoughts The ref. 5330G is quintessential Patek Philippe is several ways. It embodies a complication synonymous with the brand that is presented in a slim case. The overall aesthetic is modern but clearly vintage inspired. And the movement incorporates a complication that is cleverly executed and necessarily thin to fit the case. So conceptually, it is appealing. The ref. 5330G is also appealing in terms of its tangible qualities. It has good proportions and a refined, polished appearance that is typical of modern Patek Philippe watches. What do I not like? The carbon pattern dial is intrinsically attractive – it is done well and modern in feel – but feels a bit overused. Earlier world time models, on the other hand, had dial patterns that were unique to the reference. And the other is the Patek Philippe pricing. At over US$76,000, the ref. 5330G is steeply priced for a relatively straightforward pair of complications, even considering the ingenious construction of the date. But it is a Patek Philippe, and the unrivalled brand name alone accounts ...
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. After two battles featuring Rolex and Tudor, it’s time to move on to something else. This week, we put two classic dress watches up against each other. Both came out at Watches and Wonders, and both impressed journalists and watch fans alike. Robert-Jan’s pick […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green to read the full article.
Fratello
The big news from Patek Philippe at this year’s Watches and Wonders came in “denim.” The pale blue dials and denim-look straps certainly drew the most attention. I would argue, however, that another watch deserves a bit more of a spotlight. Join me for a closer look at the Patek Philippe 5236P-010 in-line perpetual calendar […] Visit Hands-On With The New Salmon-Dial Patek Philippe 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Each year at Watches & Wonders, we see a handful of novelties that I think can fairly be described as Super Watches. These are the truly audacious creations that are, effectively, out of reach for all but that 1% of the 1% that has the coin and the inclination to buy into something incredibly niche, that’s incredibly expensive, that (honestly) might be years away from actually being produced and successfully delivered. The Grand Seiko Kodo, I think, is a good example of a Super Watch. It stopped everyone in their tracks, had an eye watering price point, and was the ultimate artistic and mechanical expression of the brand that made it. This year had a few Super Watch candidates (including another Kodo) but I think the winner walking away was a watch from A. Lange & Söhne that took the radical step of combining all the things people love about the brand into one watch. A Super Watch, if you will. The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” was easily my favorite watch name to say aloud during the show. When someone would ask me what my favorite watch of the week was (a question you’re asked about fifty times per day, minimum) I’d reflexively say “Oh, the Lange,” and then continue, probably looking skyward while counting out the watch’s cumbersome title on my fingers, like a school kid figuring out a math problem, “the Datograph, perpetual, tourbillon, lumen,” (I’d always screw it up here) “in honeygold!” I’d be really proud of myself f...
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Monochrome
During Watches & Wonders 2024, Oris unveiled a new generation of its Aquis Date, the brand’s best-selling dive watch. While radically altering the design of your best-selling watch dive watch could alienate your loyal customer base and create an incoherent identity, Oris has limited its intervention to subtle design tweaks. Enhancing the watch visibly and […]
Quill & Pad
This month’s Dispatch explores the changes in the market we’ve seen against the backdrop of new releases and discontinuations at Watches and Wonders 2023. We also bring you our usual coverage of high level trends for our Overall Market Index and the Big Three brands: Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet.
Worn & Wound
One of the prevailing narratives to come out of Watches & Wonders 2024 was that it was, across the board, a pretty quiet year. That may have been true for some, but others, like IWC, came to play. A good portion of the attention IWC got this year was (justifiably) directed at the new Portugieser Eternal Calendar that Zach Kazan introduced a few weeks ago, but that watch was far from the only Portugieser IWC brought to Geneva this year. The Portugieser is not the first watch that springs to mind for most of us when contemplating IWC - far more likely would be some sort of Pilot’s Watch or, more recently, the Ingenieur - but it has been, at times subtly, possibly the most important collection in the IWC catalog. I know so many collectors for whom the Portugieser was their first nice watch, and it is a model I continue to see in the wild, especially in cities like New York or London where people still routinely wear suits to work. IWC, like Rolex, is a brand that prefers evolution over revolution when it comes to its designs - one only has to look at the slow transformation of the Pilot’s Watch for evidence of that. The last few years have seen the brand slowly tinkering with the Portugieser line, bringing it up to date and refining what was already a great watch to make it better. This year, they continued that process and introduced a slew of new models and colorways, all of which come together to make up possibly the best lineup of Portugiesers ever assembled. Co...
Fratello
It is no secret that I was impressed by a specific model in Cartier’s Watches and Wonders 2024 drop. After all, I wrote the introduction article and featured it in my W&W; favorites article. In case you missed both, I am talking about the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph. I have had a chance to go […] Visit Hands-On With The Impressive Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph to read the full article.
Time+Tide
T+T founder Andrew joined Norqain CEO Ben Küffer at the Norqain booth at Watches and Wonders to customise his very own watch.The post Norqain’s new customisable Wild One of 1 has 3.5 million possible configurations – watch Andrew make his appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Fratello
Five years ago, at Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (aka SIHH, the predecessor to Watches and Wonders), Audemars Piguet shocked the watch world. When “AP” launched the all-new Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet collection, the reception was lukewarm at best, but most reactions were straight-up negative. In particular, the dial design got a proper […] Visit Showing The Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Some Love This Monday Morning to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Now that we're through the craze of Watches & Wonders 2024, I've gotta say that getting my thoughts down on the new Imperial Oceanguard GMT has been a real treat. Last year, I had a chance to review the brand's first release-the Royalguard 200-and I've been eager to see what the brand would follow things up with. After a bit of teasing on social media, the Imperial Oceanguard GMT was revealed this year in a run of four different colorways, each limited to 25 pieces. The one you see here is the model in "Jet Wash White" and it's one of the few remaining versions that haven't sold out. As a GMT lover, this one was a ton of fun to handle and I think it's a great buy at under $600.
Worn & Wound
Bremont made their debut at Watches & Wonders last week, and they unexpectedly became the talk of the show. The new watches represent a dramatic departure from the design language Bremont has cultivated over the past 20 years, and serve as the introduction of Davide Cerrato at the helm of the company (he’s been CEO since spring of last year, but these new novelties are the first from the brand without the design input of founders Nick and Giles English). Relaunches are complicated, and we can’t recall a similar attempt at a rebrand that was so ambitious. To unveil a completely new strategy at a brand’s first Watches & Wonders under a CEO who has been in place for less than a year is a massive undertaking, and regardless of how you feel about Bremont’s new direction, there’s no denying that this was a big swing. Below you’ll find reactions to Bremont’s Watches & Wonders presence from Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan, both of whom had a chance to (briefly) go hands-on with the new novelties. We hope to have an opportunity to spend more time with these watches in the near future to bring you a more complete evaluation outside the fanfare and noise of the industry’s major trade show. Zach Kazan A somewhat slower year for big, flashy new releases at Watches & Wonders means that smaller stories about watches and brands that don’t normally generate a ton of heat will be talked about and picked apart in a way you wouldn’t necessarily see. Last year, when Rolex dropped...
Monochrome
Since its independence from mother brand Seiko in 2017, Grand Seiko has left its imprint outside Japan with its continuous stream of excellent watches. Impressively built, finished and powered, some of the most popular models are those with nature-themed dials. Unveiled by Grand Seiko at Watches & Wonders 2024, the new Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 […]
SJX Watches
Unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2024, Chanel’s capsule collection for the year is Couture O’Clock that draws inspiration from the workshop of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel by referencing dressmaking tools. A homage to the brand’s dressmaking and tailoring, the lineup includes wristwatches and pendant watches, but the most captivating timekeeper is undoubtedly the Couture O’Clock Musical Clock, a unique piece that is table clock containing a music box and automaton. A three dimensional display under a glass dome, the clock is centred on five ceramic dressmaker mannequins that travel around the base like a carousel while a tune plays. Continuing with Chanel’s tradition of a clock each year, is clad in Chanel’s elegant colours of black, white, and gold, but lavishly constructed, with diamonds set on the chandelier, brooches and 245 pieces of onyx inlaid on the base. Initial thoughts Table clocks occupy a niche in timepiece collecting, yet are incredibly diverse and range from the hyper mechanical to the whimsical. Chanel’s Musical Clock is paradoxically all at the same time – impressively in its mechanics, incredibly extravagant in execution, yet lighthearted in theme. Like the brand’s past table clocks – most just as impressive and expensive – the Musical Clock is an apt homage to the Chanel. But unlike its predecessors, the Musical Clock is a more straightforward embodiment of the brand’s best-known line of business. It is also more feminine than Chane...
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