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Results for Bauhaus (Watch Design)

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A Look at the Latest from Horage in Spain Worn & Wound
Rolex Richemont or Oct 12, 2023

A Look at the Latest from Horage in Spain

When writing about brands, we often use the words “micro” or “independent” to describe any brand that is not a Swiss luxury powerhouse or part of a mega conglomerate. Think of Rolex, Richemont or the Swatch Group for example. Most micro and independents we write about are, more often than not, brands that are more about design and a certain lifestyle philosophy than engineering and manufacturing. 99% of brands I love are the former. This doesn’t mean, however, that the latter don’t exist. Instead, an independent brand can be qualified as being one which goes beyond design to create stuff. A lot of new and cutting-edge stuff. This brings us to Horage, the Swiss that has been covered in these pages extensively, and more recently, most recently when Ed Jelley reviewed the Lensman 2. What we know about Horage is this: they make their own movements, good ones at that, and unique looking watches. I recently attended an event hosted by Horage through which I discovered that the brand actually does much more. Not only does Horage make its own movements, but it’s also at the forefront of technology to make watch manufacturing more sustainable. Or, should I say, watch collecting more sustainable. Through the discovery of their newest model and caliber-which I will tell you about in a second-I realized that everything in life does indeed work in cycles. Think about this: Rolex started as what we now describe as being a microbrand. It bought parts from many places to...

Grand Seiko Expands their Mid-Size 44GS Offerings with Two New References Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Expands their Mid-Size 44GS Oct 12, 2023

Grand Seiko Expands their Mid-Size 44GS Offerings with Two New References

One of the more exciting releases from Grand Seiko over the last couple of years (we know – there have been a lot of new Grand Seiko releases) was the limited edition SBGW289, a pink hued watch in a 44GS case with a throwback size of just 36.5mm. Naturally, plenty of people were excited about the pink dial, but hardcore Grand Seiko nerds were particularly into the idea of a smaller 44GS case, more in-line with vintage Grand Seiko proportions, and this LE that debuted in April of last year seemed to point toward future releases along these lines that might not be so limited, and perhaps even be in more classic and sober dial colors. With Grand Seiko’s latest release, they continue to build out the lineup of smaller 44GS cases with a pair of watches that feel like they could have been part of the Grand Seiko catalog since the 1960s.  The new SBGW297 and SBGW299 have dials in white and blue, respectively, each with a classic, heavy, sunray pattern emanating from the center. This isn’t a subtle, brushed sunray texture, but a more defined series of fanned ridges that are more clearly visible and should play with the light in interesting ways. The dials, and the watches more broadly, are directly inspired by styles dating back to the 1967 introduction of the 44GS design, and there’s an understated simplicity here that is certainly core to the Grand Seiko aesthetic.  The cases match the 36.5mm proportions of last year’s SBGW289, which means they offer all of the inher...

The Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph, Now in Lightweight Titanium SJX Watches
Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph Now Oct 12, 2023

The Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph, Now in Lightweight Titanium

After the release of the scaled-down version of the Spirit Zulu Time, Longines has unveiled a new iteration of the Spirit Flyback Chronograph. This variation features a titanium case and bracelet, and an anthracite dial only for now, while preserving the design of the existing steel models. Initial thoughts Longines should be acknowledged for its success in creating vintage-style watches, as evident in its aviation-inspired Spirit collection, notably the Flyback Chronograph. The introduction of this chronograph in titanium shows a continuation of this successful run, despite its large case size.  As for this timepiece, it maintains the design features and case dimensions of the steel Spirit Flyback. However, it’s worth noting that it is currently only offered with an anthracite dial. It would have been preferable for the new case material to be accompanied by a new dial colour to truly make this release stand out. The titanium Spirit Flyback is offered with two strap options: one with a NATO strap priced at US$4,850 and another with a bracelet priced at US$5,200. Despite a modest price increase compared to the steel models, it continues to deliver exceptional value for its quality.  The Flyback in titanium Much like its steel counterparts, the titanium Spirit Flyback Chronograph exudes a distinct vintage-inspired design. Presently, it is only offered with a sun ray brushed anthracite dial as compared to the steel models available in either black or blue dials. The stee...

Atelier Wen and Revolution Team Up for a Second Time on a Gorgeous Perception Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen Oct 11, 2023

Atelier Wen and Revolution Team Up for a Second Time on a Gorgeous Perception Limited Edition

Atelier Wen is a unique proposition in the watch industry. The brainchild of Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, the 5-year old company has made its mark by presenting watches inspired by Chinese culture. Its second model line, the Perception, features a true guilloché dial hand-carved by one Chinese Master Cheng Yucai. This model – and the brand – have attracted attention for what is considered a rare level of handwork on a dial for its price point. The latest iteration of the Perception comes to us via a collaboration with watch media favorite Revolution. This is the Atelier Wen x Revolution Perception ‘Càn’. The first go around for Atelier Wen and Revolution was a hit. It was called the ‘Xi’, meaning ‘jubilation’ in Mandarin. That Perception was paired with a rubber strap and featured a glorious red dial. All 100 promptly sold out. This latest collaboration is called the ‘Càn’ (粲), meaning ‘brightness’ or ‘splendor’, and looking at the watch, it’s clear why. The Càn’s dial is a champagne sunburst flinqué giolloché, and it is striking. Story has it that Master Cheng Yucai was intrigued by the technique and art of rose turning pioneered by the English and Swiss but was unable to procure his own machine. Undeterred, he set out to design and build his own machine and filed several patents along the way. On a basic level, the rose turning machine enables a human to carve intricate designs and patterns on a dial. Notable watchmakers l...

The 48 Best Automatic Watches Under $500 Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 11, 2023

The 48 Best Automatic Watches Under $500

Let’s be honest: not everyone can spend thousands of dollars on every new watch purchase, especially someone who might just be getting into the watch collecting hobby or perhaps looking to spend $1,000 or so to assemble his or her first three-watch collection. Fortunately, there are a plethora of options out there in the sub-$500 watch category, with choices from the usual suspects like Seiko, Citizen, Swatch, Timex, and Orient, as well as from several microbrands that offer worthwhile options in that narrow price range as well. Here we have compiled a selection of the best automatic watches under $500 that deserve to be on your radar - and perhaps even in your collection. Before we begin, some important ground rules: Our curated list will feature watches costing under $500, and equipped with an automatic movement inside. The very few exceptions to the under-$500 rule will be called out in the descriptions below. As always, we can’t include every potential watch that meets the criteria in this range, but you can find some others in several other guides on our site, such as our lists of The 60 Best Seiko Watches and The 51 Best Microbrands. Finally, in order for this list to flow properly, the watches will be grouped together according to the following style categories: 1) Dive, 2) Dress, 3) Everyday Finally, at the end of the list, we will shout out a handful of watches that are worthy of notice but just missed the cut on price. Dive Watches: S...

Alsta Refreshes the Nautoscaph with Three Vintage Inspired Skin Divers Worn & Wound
Oct 11, 2023

Alsta Refreshes the Nautoscaph with Three Vintage Inspired Skin Divers

Fans of the skin diver, the easy to wear style of dive watch that has become core to the watch-nerd lifestyle in recent years, will be excited to hear about the new Nautoscaph Skin Divers from Alsta, a watch brand that was truly there at the beginning of the skin diver movement in the heyday of recreational SCUBA diving decades ago. It’s very easy, in my opinion, to see the appeal of the skin diver. They were made to be an approachable alternative to more professional oriented dive watches years ago, and those design characteristics that made them appealing in the 60s and 70s remain alluring today. These watches tend to have smaller case sizes that are thinner and easier to handle than bigger, chunkier divers that are rated to go much deeper. Plus, you still get an ultra practical, highly legible dial. Ditto for the timing bezel. What’s not to like?  Alsta is perhaps best known these days for being associated, somewhat loosely, with Jaws, which we covered earlier this year in podcast form. Richard Dreyfuss, as Matt Hooper, wore an Alsta throughout the film, in a way that can only be described as inconspicuous and incredibly casual. It just feels like the right kind of watch for a character who might or might not need to do a little diving, and it looks at home topside in a variety of situations, which is part of the point of a skin diver to begin with. The new Nautoscaphs seen here certainly have a similar vibe, and would make sense on the wrist of Matt Hooper or his ...

The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin commits to green and gold Time+Tide
Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Oct 11, 2023

The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin commits to green and gold

Bright and flashy colours were initially seen as a returning trend when they first started cropping up a couple of years ago, but unlike the Stella dials or funky divers of the 1970s, colours have permeated all corners of watchmaking. A perpetual calendar watch is possibly the ultimate commitment to a colour, as it’s fully … ContinuedThe post The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin commits to green and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Roundup: A 90’s Throwback Zodiac, A Bold Tissot, and A Mini Knife That Packs A Big Punch Worn & Wound
Tissot Oct 10, 2023

The Roundup: A 90’s Throwback Zodiac, A Bold Tissot, and A Mini Knife That Packs A Big Punch

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something special up for you, a loved one, or a friend!  Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something special up for you, a loved one, or a friend!  Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The post The Roundup: A 90’s Throwback Zodiac, A Bold Tissot, and A Mini Knife That Packs A Big Punch appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Ming’s Latest, the 37.07 Monolith, is a Subdued Update of Last Year’s Mosaic Worn & Wound
Ming Oct 10, 2023

Ming’s Latest, the 37.07 Monolith, is a Subdued Update of Last Year’s Mosaic

Ming’s latest, the 37.07 Monolith, is a more restrained take on the 37.07 Mosaic released last year to celebrate the brand’s fifth anniversary. That Mosaic, like so many of Ming’s watches, is all about how different elements of the watch play with light. We see this is the watch’s key components, particularly with the lume on the dial and the meticulous finishing of Ming’s cases. The 37.07 Monolith, like the 17.06 Monolith before it, is effectively an inversion of these ideas. The case is blacked out and doesn’t feature a hint of high polish, and the dial is, almost literally, a shadow of last year’s watch. It’s a different vibe for Ming, and a reminder that the brand’s canvas can accommodate a range of styles and textures.  The idea with the 37.07, according to Ming, was to carry their design language into a more utilitarian state. They call it a “palate cleanser” in their press materials – a watch that can be worn without having to worry about it too much. This is largely achieved through a total transformation of the case, giving the lug tops, bezel, and crown a bead blasting treatment, while the case flanks the the case back retain the brushing that is common to most Ming references. Because there are still multiple finishes employed on the case, we don’t completely lose the sense of drama and feeling that every detail has been accounted for – everything is just an order of magnitude more subtle and reserved.  If you recall last year’s M...

Hands On: Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Oct 10, 2023

Hands On: Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie

In an unexpected movement, Louis Vuitton and Akrivia have just announced the Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie. Reflecting the collaborative nature of the watch, it has two faces – the tinted sapphire dial for the time and a fired enamel dial on the back for the chronograph. The LVRR-01 also boasts an unusual combination of complications: a chronograph with a chiming mechanism that strikes once every elapsed minute, along with a five-minute tourbillon – and a constant-force gear train. [NB: The watch pictured is one of two prototypes so the finishing, particularly the cleanliness of the movement, is not up to par.] Technically-minded enthusiasts will appreciate the sophistication of the movement, since the chronograph and sonnerie are driven by secondary barrel and going train that is effectively a one-minute constant force mechanism. Limited to 10 watches, the LVRR-01 is the first of a series of five collaborative projects between Louis Vuitton and independent watchmakers. The next project will be revealed in a year’s time, with the subsequent projects following the same annual timetable. Initial thoughts The LVRR-01 has the heft and gleam of a finely made watch. The chamfered edges on the platinum case immediately catch the eye, particularly because of the contrast with the brushed surfaces, and then the movement finishing becomes apparent through sapphire crystal. In fact, the smoked sapphire crystal perhaps obscures too much of the...

MAEN Launches the Third Version of their Skymaster 38 with a New Movement and a Surprising Collaborator Worn & Wound
Maen Oct 9, 2023

MAEN Launches the Third Version of their Skymaster 38 with a New Movement and a Surprising Collaborator

MAEN Watches has relaunched their vintage inspired Skymaster 38 chronograph over the weekend, adding three new updated references to the collection, including a surprising limited edition. The Skymaster feels like a watch right in MAEN’s wheelhouse: a sports watch with an aesthetic that’s clearly inspired by the past, but executed at an incredibly high level with a surprising level of detail, all at a price point that makes these watches tough to ignore. I spent some time recently with MAEN’s Brooklyn 36 reference, an old school triple calendar, and was pleasantly surprised at the level of refinement on a watch that comes in at well under $1,000. The Skymaster, now in a MKIII version, contains many similar small details. There are two big changes with this third edition of the Skymaster 38. First, the watch now runs on the new Sellita SW510Mb manually wound movement, and the case has gone through a series of little adjustments to properly house it. Previous versions of the Skymaster used automatic movements, so the inclusion of a manually wound caliber here represents a significant change, and really plays into the heritage angle of a release like this.  Secondly, in addition to offering a 12 hour bezel, MAEN is now making the Skymaster with an optional tachymeter bezel as well. The more prominent tachymeter bezel changes the appearance of the Skymaster dramatically, and should prove popular with collectors who are after a more traditionally styled racing chronograp...

The Many Handwinding Flavors of Hamilton Worn & Wound
Hamilton There’s something special about Oct 8, 2023

The Many Handwinding Flavors of Hamilton

There’s something special about hand winding a watch. Sure, automatics are great, but the great thing about them is that they don’t really need you to keep doing their job. The most interaction you’d have with the crown on your automatic is maybe setting it should the power reserve run out over a long weekend. Handwinding watches require a bit more work, but that few minutes of winding in the morning before your day begins is a great opportunity to interact with your favorite watch. Romanticism aside, there are some key physical benefits as well. Most importantly being that since there’s no automatic winding rotor section needed for the movement, handwinding movements tend to be thinner and able to be housed in smaller cases that may wear better on your wrist. One iconic brand that’s still actively embracing handwinding watches is Hamilton. With the huge success of their Khaki Field Mechanical, it’s clear that enthusiasts still want handwinding watches, especially when they’re as solidly built, packed with features, and as functional as the Hamiltons below. Let’s take a look at three handwinding Hamiltons in the Windup Watch Shop and what makes them special. There’s something special about hand winding a watch. Sure, automatics are great, but the great thing about them is that they don’t really need you to keep doing their job. The most interaction you’d have with the crown on your automatic is maybe setting it should the power reserve run out over ...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: An Aston Martin Hypercar, a New Season of True Detective, and U2 at the Sphere Worn & Wound
Oct 7, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: An Aston Martin Hypercar, a New Season of True Detective, and U2 at the Sphere

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. We Can’t Stop Watching Videos of U2 at the Sphere in Las Vegas If you were on the internet last weekend – literally any corner of the internet – you were almost certainly flooded with videos of U2 performing at the Sphere in Las Vegas, the new concert venue attached to the Venetian featuring an enormous domed screen behind the stage. Many have been anticipating seeing what the Sphere has to offer for quite some time, but with U2 taking the stage for a Las Vegas residency that will keep them in town for the rest of the year, the public is getting their first taste of what’s possible in the state of the art concert space. It’s a uniquely immersive environment, with the Sphere’s screen taking up your entire field of vision, presenting a photo realistic (or dreamily psychedelic) view of, well, just about anything. The possibilities are truly endless. The Washington Post has a solid collection of some of the best viral videos to emerge from the Sphere’s big opening weekend, but searching for Sphere content on your social media app of choice should provide a steady diet of im...

Hands-On: the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic in Rose Gold Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic Oct 6, 2023

Hands-On: the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic in Rose Gold

Something I think about quite a bit in this hobby is the idea that the watches we wear are often just part of a costume that we’re presenting to the outside world. They exist as aspirational symbols of what we’d like our life to be. There’s a cosplay aspect to wearing certain watches that I’m never quite able to shake, even watches I love. I wear, on most days, either a pilot’s watch or a diver, and I don’t fly a plane and I don’t even really like to swim. I wear these watches because I genuinely enjoy them as watches, but I’d be lying if a small part of me didn’t feel like a pretender, a guy asking himself who he thinks he’s kidding with this super tactical pilot’s instrument strapped to his wrist. I’ve never felt that feeling more acutely than in my time with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic in rose gold. This watch, let’s just say, is not in my normal wheelhouse. While I appreciate it aesthetically (in fact, I find it quite beautiful) it’s not the kind of thing I’d choose to wear. But more than that, this watch is part of a micro-genre of watches that is very specific, one that I’m fascinated by, but am personally so far removed from, I am legitimately probably closer to the pilot walking into the US Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor program than I am the dude who this watch was made for.  The Tonda PF Sport Auto is part of a class of watches I think of as “leisure sport,” with a heavy emphasis on the leisure. Th...

Yema Debuts a Surprising Tourbillon to Celebrate their 75th Anniversary Worn & Wound
Yema Oct 6, 2023

Yema Debuts a Surprising Tourbillon to Celebrate their 75th Anniversary

Celebrating 75 years in business, French watchmakers Yema have recently released their Yachtingraf Tourbillon Maréographe, a tribute to classic design and Franco-Swiss watchmaking mastery. Ringing in a milestone is never an easy feat; but, somehow, Yema has been able to accomplish not only a timeless design, but something that showcases the pursuit of excellence that has defined the brand over the course of its history.  Don’t let the plain black and steel (or bronze) design fool you – this watch is anything but simple. Yema has incorporated a balance between yachting heritage design and function to show what this watch is capable of – while also doing it with a certain je nais sais quoi, courtesy of a somewhat unexpected tourbillon caliber. The tourbillon is visible at the 6 o’clock mark, giving one an interior look into the precision mechanisms of this masterpiece. Opposite that, at the 12 hour, the Maréographe has a unique lunar time complication with a display of tide cycles, complete with a decorative bearing the traditional Yema “Y” logo. While maybe not part of your day-to-day needs, it’s nonetheless a showing of Yema’s technical capabilities and a bit of a unique offering for an important anniversary. This watch measures in at 42.5 mm, giving it a sense of presence on the wrist that matches the various finishes of the design. The rotating bezel is beautifully crafted with additional scratch protection, while the double-domed sapphire crystal will...

Horage Mission Independence – what you need to know Time+Tide
Oct 6, 2023

Horage Mission Independence – what you need to know

Have you ever dreamed of designing your own watch? I sure have, but as much of an enthusiast as I am, I do not have the tools or knowledge to do so. If I could, the best-case scenario would be the ability to create watches uninhibited and unencumbered by conglomerate politics and red tape. Full … ContinuedThe post Horage Mission Independence – what you need to know appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Adds a Titanium Flyback Chronograph to the Spirit Collection Worn & Wound
Longines Adds Oct 5, 2023

Longines Adds a Titanium Flyback Chronograph to the Spirit Collection

Earlier this year, to considerable fanfare on their part, Longines launched the Flyback Chronograph within their Spirit Collection. The Spirit Collection has been critical for Longines over these past few years. It’s a spot in the catalog where the brand is really trying to carve out a niche for themselves in the contemporary watch landscape. After years of being better than possibly any other brand at raiding the archives for heritage based reissues, the Spirit Collection seems like a conscious choice to branch out into something different – to prove that Longines has a foot in the modern watch world, and isn’t just playing the hits. For me, the Spirit Collection really gelled with the introduction of its first titanium watch. This no date execution of the Spirit in a super lightweight metal really felt like the brand finding a groove with a new product line, and they’ve now somewhat predictably added a titanium version of the Flyback Chronograph to the collection, adding some symmetry to the catalog and perhaps a more wearable version of an impressive, but large, chrono. The broad strokes of the Flyback are virtually identical to the steel version issued earlier this year. We get a 42mm case that’s 17mm (yes, 17mm) thick, with a rotating 60 minute timing bezel with a ceramic insert, mounted to a matching titanium bracelet or a textile strap. The dial is anthracite, complementing the tone of the grade 5 titanium rather well, with subdials at 3:00 and 9:00 for mi...

The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon is a great example of artisanal sapphire watchmaking Time+Tide
Oct 5, 2023

The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon is a great example of artisanal sapphire watchmaking

The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon embraces symmetrical and whimsical design. The Purity Tourbillon movement boasts a huge 17mm tourbillon cage that beats at 4Hz. Close inspection of the openwork movement reveals a lot of hand-finished detail. Although it remains quite a niche genre for the wealthy elite, the list of sapphire-cased watches is quickly growing. … ContinuedThe post The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon is a great example of artisanal sapphire watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

So Many Lasers, So Much Tagging-Recapping the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag LE Launch Party Worn & Wound
Zodiac x Worn & Wound Oct 4, 2023

So Many Lasers, So Much Tagging-Recapping the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag LE Launch Party

Last Thursday, despite the torrential downpour, a hearty group of brave souls answered the call and entered the arena to celebrate the release of the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions. This launch was the follow-up entrant to the original Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Limited Edition, affectionately referred to as the “Saved by the Bell” watch. This night also invoked some serious 90s nostalgia by taking over Area 53 in DUMBO, Brooklyn and flooding the venue with blacklight and filling it with watch enthusiasts ready to wage a series of laser tagging wars.  While guests awaited their time on the battlefield, they were presented a plethora of activities to interact with. From air hockey to arcade games, from foosball to classic birthday party sheet cakes-there was a full complement of to-dos. At the center of all the action were each of the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions. Inspired by the sights, sensations, and joy of playing laser tag, they are watches that were imagined in three states of illumination-in light, in blacklight, and in the dark, each creating a different visual experience. Over two years in the making, the watches feature photoreactive elements on the dial, bezel, strap, and even the case and packaging. The Limited Editions come in two team colors: Team Ultraviolet vs. Team Infrared. Our spirits partner, Superbird, took this to heart coming with two team-themed cocktails. The firs...

A Roundup of High End IWC Releases from the Last Month Worn & Wound
IWC Releases from Oct 4, 2023

A Roundup of High End IWC Releases from the Last Month

If you think IWC has been catching their breath after reimagining the Ingenieur earlier this year, think again. The Schaffhausen-based brand has been busy dishing out high end watches over the last month – headlined by the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler – as well as heavy hitters through partnerships with automotive powerhouses. From complications to composite materials, there’s a lot to dig into here. Travel back to winter 2008 for a moment. The global economy is still roiled in recession, the federal funds rate is zero, and IWC marches out one of the rarest and most distinctive references ever: the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition Markus Bühler (Ref. 5003). Named after famed IWC apprentice Markus Bühler, the watch featured airplane turbines on the dial and also on its movement. A few years earlier, Bühler’s concept had won the top prize at the Prix IFHH de l’Horlogerie (now known as the Concours IHC), and IWC only made a limited run of twelve pieces. A decade and a half later we meet its successor, the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler. It’s platinum, it’s 43mm, and it’s a real unit. True to form, the turbine is back but has now been integrated into a flying (haha) tourbillon. IWC has crafted the turbine blades from a titanium alloy for weight saving and even repurposed its upper cage as the regulator. The hairspring is attached to one of the blades, allowing a watchmaker to adjust the zero crossing of the balance simply by ...

Collective Horology Introduces their Latest Limited Edition, a Collaboration with Montblanc Featuring a Gorgeous Minerva Caliber Worn & Wound
Montblanc Featuring Oct 3, 2023

Collective Horology Introduces their Latest Limited Edition, a Collaboration with Montblanc Featuring a Gorgeous Minerva Caliber

Collective Horology, the private watch club/independent brand retailer/producer of thoughtful limited editions, is back with their latest release in an ongoing series of collaborations. This time, they’re working with Montblanc, tapping into the brand’s association with the historic Minerva manufacture, maker of some of the most important chronograph calibers in the history of watchmaking. The 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph “Blue Arrow” P.05 is a high end “What if…?” hypothetical come to life, and a great showcase for a truly special movement. As with all Collective limited editions, this one is something more than a reissue or a tweaked colorway. It exists to tell a specific story about the brand in a way that can often only be done from the outside.  According to Collective, the seed of inspiration for the P.05 came from Eric Wind, or more specifically a watch in his case at the 2022 Windup Watch Fair. That year, Eric brought a Minerva stopwatch to the show, and it reminded Collective founders Gabe Reilly and Asher Rapkin of Minerva’s sporting roots, opening up a series of entirely new design possibilities. The 1858 Monopusher Chronograph that Collective and Montblanc came up with drew on the sportier design cues from that stopwatch, including the colors, finishing techniques, and the case material (robust stainless steel, of course). The end result is a chronograph that has many key vintage inspired design elements that are core to Montblanc and Mi...