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The Zenith Defy Skyline Gets the White Ceramic, Skeleton Dial Treatment Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Skyline Gets Jul 4, 2024

The Zenith Defy Skyline Gets the White Ceramic, Skeleton Dial Treatment

I’ll be upfront here: I love the Defy. All the Defys. I’ve said many times to many people that the Defy is probably my favorite sports watch line of all time. It’s certainly my favorite corner of the Zenith catalog, and vintage Defy references are some of the coolest you can own, and somehow still represent a great value compared to comparable sports watches from other brands. To me, these watches have historically been exactly the right combination of avant-garde design and sports watch functionality. A Defy, unlike a Submariner, for example, can be both an art piece and an everyday wearer. They are also consistently interesting from a materials perspective, particularly when they get into colored ceramic, as they have with the newest Defy introduced today, a successor of sorts to one of my favorite watches from last year.  The Defy Skyline White Ceramic Skeleton is in some ways a predictable, natural evolution of the current generation Defy. It takes the ceramic case and bracelet we saw in last year’s black model, turns them white, and gives us the skeleton dial treatment that debuted early last year. It’s a similar trajectory to the Defy Classic releases from several years back, which started in titanium, with colorful skeletonized ceramic versions to follow.  This new reference is a little different though for how it plays with contrast. Against the stark white of the case and bracelet, we get a skeletonized blue dial and a movement in a matching shade. Tha...

First Look – The new Baltic MR Roulette Collection, Bringing Vintage Calatrava Vibes Monochrome
Baltic MR Roulette Collection Bringing Jul 4, 2024

First Look – The new Baltic MR Roulette Collection, Bringing Vintage Calatrava Vibes

Founded in 2017 by Etienne Malec and friends, Baltic continues its rapid expansion to the point of not being able to use the term micro-brand anymore… Now an established watch brand with a comprehensive collection, ranging from racing chronographs to dive watches and adventure-themed models, Baltic also ventured into the world of dress watches with […]

Baltic Adds New Watches to their Micro-Rotor Collection Worn & Wound
Baltic Adds New Watches Jul 4, 2024

Baltic Adds New Watches to their Micro-Rotor Collection

Three years after the debut of the MR01, Baltic has updated their popular micro-rotor movement powered dress watch line in a big way. The new MR Roulette collection, which debuts today, offers a new take on the platform with a slightly more casual, sector dial inspired layout. Coming on the heels of the Prismic collection, a series of watches that drew intense reactions in all directions, the MR Roulette feels like a return to the aesthetic that made Baltic the brand they are today, with modest vintage cues, a mixing of textures, and an enticing price point.  The MR Roulette is built on the same foundation of previous micro-rotor powered watches in Baltic’s catalog. It has a 36mm steel case with a flat, vertically brushed bezel and lugs that are brushed in a complementary circular pattern. The case is accented with tasteful polishing on the bezel wall, and measures an easy to wear 44mm from lug to lug. If you’ve ever tried on the original MR01, you know that this case truly wears like a vintage watch, not only its proportions, but it has a light and airy quality to it as well. It measures just 9.9mm tall, but feels thinner because nearly 2mm of that height is taken up by the domed hesalite crystal.  The new dials are available in salmon, silver, blue, and black variants. All but the black feature a grained background paired with two brushed sectors: an interior track for the hours, and an exterior track for the minutes. The running seconds subdial is off-center, cove...

Hands-On With The Revamped Sinn 903 St II In Black Fratello
Sinn 903 St II Jul 4, 2024

Hands-On With The Revamped Sinn 903 St II In Black

One of the perks of my line of work is that I sometimes get to experience watches I wouldn’t have normally sought out. Nacho requested the Sinn 903 for himself to test but found his schedule overfilled with management responsibilities and handed the watch to me. So I strapped on the newly revamped Sinn 903 […] Visit Hands-On With The Revamped Sinn 903 St II In Black to read the full article.

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB is Now Regular Production SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB Jul 4, 2024

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB is Now Regular Production

Several months back, Tudor quietly released the Black Bay Ceramic Blue exclusively for the Visa Cash App RB (VCARB) Formula One team, with the dial colour modelled on the Visa logo. Today, the watch is available to the public (while the VCARB drivers will sport the more recent rainbow-dial “Chameleon” edition). Initial thoughts Tudor often listens to its audience, giving them what they want. Examples include the more compact Black Bay 58 GMT, and now the Black Bay Ceramic Blue. Intrinsically, the new Black Bay is technically and aesthetically perfect in its own way. It is the same Black Bay that has remained the brand’s bestseller since its launch, but in an unusual combination of black ceramic and blue. The brand has rolled out a number of special editions recently, which might dilute the concept somewhat. That said, this is the first instance of a publicly available Black Bay Ceramic special edition (unlike say the Black Bay 58), which makes it appealing. That said, the Black Bay Ceramic Blue is a great value proposition, as is usually the case for Tudor. It combines a ceramic case with an impressively spec’ed in-house movement that’s both METAS- and COSC-Certified, all for US$5,150, a price that few can rival. Visa Blue The highlight of the new Black Bay Ceramic is the matte blue dial (that’s arguably similar to the discontinued Rolex Submariner “Smurf” ref. 116619). It’s matched with applied hour markers and snowflake hands filled with white Super-Lum...

Fratello Talks: Where Did All The Watches Go? Fratello
Jul 4, 2024

Fratello Talks: Where Did All The Watches Go?

Welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Today, Nacho, RJ, and Daan ask themselves the question: where did all the watches go? Whether consciously or otherwise, watch spotting is something every watch-minded person partakes in. It may be when walking down the street, at your office, in a restaurant, or even on holiday - […] Visit Fratello Talks: Where Did All The Watches Go? to read the full article.

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Anoma A1 Worn & Wound
Jul 3, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Anoma A1

The age of the circular watch has ended. The mid-century divers, chronographs, and Calatravas are out. Ok, not really, but it looks like shaped, asymmetric, and sculptural watches are the next coming trend. Kicking this new era off have been a few releases ranging from the high-end and exclusive by Berneron to the mid-tier and provocative by Toledano + Chan to the relatively accessible yet exotic Anoma, whose first watch I’ve had the chance to spend some time with. On June 6th, 2024, Anoma Watches launched the A1, an asymmetrical, triangular-shaped watch with an appealing, soft look. Like a weathered pebble of polished steel, the A1 mixes a sense of mid-century watch and industrial design with a modern sensibility, preventing it from feeling like a pastiche recreation. Well-sized at around 38mm and with a vibrant blue dial with a green tint, it’s a memorable launch from a new brand. In the video below, I discuss the brand, the context of the A1’s launch, the design, and what it’s like to wear it. As this is the only shaped watch I’ve ever worn for any period, it was an interesting experience. At first, it was a bit jarring, perhaps, but its quirky charm won me over. With collectors, new and old, having more choices and easier access to watches than ever, brands need to offer something that will stand out yet not be just a novelty. With the A1, Anoma has achieved this, at least in my opinion. Priced at £1,300, or about $1,650 USD, the Anoma A1 is available for pr...

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic 'Blue' – Everything You Need To Know Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Jul 3, 2024

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic 'Blue' – Everything You Need To Know

Back in February of this year, shortly after Tudor became a sponsor of the Visa Cash App RB Racing Team, driver Daniel Ricciardo was spotted wearing a curious blue dial Tudor Black Bay Ceramic – a watch that up to that point had not existed. It was a very “Daniel Craig wearing a white pre-release Speedmaster to Planet Omega in New York” moment. As it turns out, this watch became the standard timepiece in the paddock for both drivers Ricciardo and Yuki Tsunoda. But the story sort of ended there and we were left to figure that this was just a racing watch…not for public consumption. That is, until this morning, when Tudor let it be known that the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” is now a very real thing that us very real people can very truly own. And now we have a lot more images of the watch to boot. In light of the fact that Ricciardo somewhat spoiled this launch back in February, there is not much to say that isn’t known. And similar to the white Speedmaster, we are effectively talking about a dial change here. But nonetheless, let’s get into this one. The watch takes the form of the 2021 Black Bay Ceramic release which, at the time, boasted an all-black-everything design motif from the ceramic case to the dial to the strap. The BB Ceramic comes in at 41mm with a case thickness of 14.4mm. It features the METAS-certified master chronometer MT5602-U1. What is significant about that movement is that the original BB Ceramic was the watch to debut Tudor’s for...

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” for the Visa Cash App RB F1 Team is Here Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” Jul 3, 2024

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” for the Visa Cash App RB F1 Team is Here

One of the continuing small surprises of the watch landscape over the last few years is Tudor’s building of new relationships with professional athletes and sports teams. David Beckham, of course, has been an ambassador for years, but in a relatively short period of time Tudor has established relationships in pro sailing (Alinghi Red Bull), rugby (the All Blacks), cycling (the Tudor team was actually founded back in 2018), and F1 racing. Over time, these partnerships have produced watches, and today we get the latest example, a Black Bay Ceramic with a blue dial made for the Visa Cash App RB Formula One team. The Black Bay Ceramic is one of the most under the radar Black Bays in the collection. It’s the only modern Tudor sports watch in ceramic, and up until today was available only with a black dial that complements its black ceramic case. It’s perhaps most notable though as the answer to a trivia question: what is the first Tudor to have a movement with METAS certification? When this watch was released and it was the only one in the collection with this designation, it was a truly odd thing. Tudor has since filled out their METAS line a bit, so it’s no surprise that the new Black Bay Ceramic Blue is also METAS certified.  To match the Visa Cash App team’s livery, the watch has been produced with a bright blue dial. Eagle eyed F1 fans have already spotted the watch on the wrists of team members, so it’s not a complete surprise to see it here. It obviously giv...

First Look – The Zenith Defy Skyline White Ceramic Skeleton Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline White Ceramic Jul 3, 2024

First Look – The Zenith Defy Skyline White Ceramic Skeleton

Released in 2022, the Defy Skyline collection was Zenith‘s answer to the large demand for sports watches with integrated design and bracelet. Since its initial introduction, we have seen multiple new editions of this watch, including compact versions, ceramic models, a chronograph and even a high-frequency tourbillon. But one of the most impactful models was […]

News – The F1-Themed Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Blue, Now Available to the Public Monochrome
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Blue Jul 3, 2024

News – The F1-Themed Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Blue, Now Available to the Public

A few months ago, just ahead of the 2024 Formula 1 season, Tudor announced a rather unexpected partnership, signing its return in motorsport. The brand indeed announced its official partnership with Red Bull’s second team, Visa Cash App RB Formula One team, with drivers Daniel Ricciardo and Yuki Tsunoda behind the wheel. Only a couple […]

A Closer Look At The New Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic [Video] Fratello
Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic [Video] We Jul 3, 2024

A Closer Look At The New Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic [Video]

We recently introduced the new Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic collection here. It’s a collection of time-only Escale watches that use Louis Vuitton’s LFT023 movement. In this video, RJ discusses the Louis Vuitton Escale rose gold models in detail. Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic This year marks the 10th anniversary of the Escale collection. Louis Vuitton showed […] Visit A Closer Look At The New Louis Vuitton Escale Automatic [Video] to read the full article.

Up Close With The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396G-017 Fratello
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396G-017 Yes Jul 3, 2024

Up Close With The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396G-017

Yes, you’re looking at a new watch. The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396G-017 is a watch with a very familiar face. But that face underwent some serious yet subtle “cosmetic surgery.” The reference 5396 has been around since 2006 and has become one of the most recognizable Patek watches around. The vertical design, which shows […] Visit Up Close With The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396G-017 to read the full article.

Cartier’s Success Story: Exclusively Inclusive, Universally Unique Revolution
Cartier s Success Story Exclusively Jul 3, 2024

Cartier’s Success Story: Exclusively Inclusive, Universally Unique

Cartier remains a remarkable success story, especially with the brand achieving a turnover of 3.1 billion CHF in 2023, according to the Swiss watch industry’s top 50 companies report by Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult. We spoke with Cyrille Vigneron, CEO of Cartier, to explore the brand’s enduring appeal and core values that make it one […]

Ressence Gets into the Full Lume Dial Game with the Type 5 L Worn & Wound
Ressence Gets into Jul 2, 2024

Ressence Gets into the Full Lume Dial Game with the Type 5 L

If you’ve spent any time on the watch internet over the last few weeks, it should be no surprise that it’s dive watch season. Hardly a day goes by right now that some new dive watch doesn’t pop up on our radar, or come across our Instagram feeds. Now - with the release of the Type 5 L - Ressence has joined in, harnessing the sheer awesomeness of copious lume to make what may be the coolest version of their Type 5 diver yet. When the Ressence Type 5 was first released in 2015, it was unlike anything else on the market. With its bulbous architecture, oil-filled case, and signature Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) displaying the time, the Type 5 was about as fun as a watch could get. The Type 5 L pushes it even further and is a nice reminder that dive watch design doesn’t have to be static - there are still plenty of pages in the dive watch playbook to explore. On a technical level, the Type 5 L is exactly the watch we’ve seen over the last near-decade, but the technical side of things only tells part of the story. What sets the Type 5 L apart is its fully luminous dial. Without the glow, the Type 5 L looks awfully similar to the gray Type 5G from 2017. It shares the same 46mm wide, 15.5mm thick grade 5 titanium case; the same ETA 2824/2 calibre modified with a ROCS 5 module and magnetic transmission showing hours, minutes, and running seconds (plus oil temperature for good measure); and the same 100 meter water resistance. But it’s a whole other story ...

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Review Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Jul 2, 2024

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Review

IWC released a new generation of its Ingenieur collection in 2023, at what many would consider the tail end of the integrated-luxury-sport-watch craze that gripped the industry heading into 2020. At the time, it was tempting to say that IWC was a bit late to the punch here, especially considering the Schaffhausen-based brand's enviable position of having an original Gérald Genta design from the ‘70s to utilize. In hindsight, however, it seems that IWC was playing the long game, and wasn’t interested in rushing out a throwback type of release. Instead, IWC took a bit more time and released a modern rendition of the original Genta design, released in 1976, as a foundation for years to come. The result is the Reference 3289 Ingenieur, and it’s a watch that looks to do more than merely capitalize on a passing trend.  There are two watches with which you likely associate the name Gérald Genta, and those are the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Genta penned both of these now iconic designs, in 1972 and 1976 respectively, and they have served as cornerstones in creating the premium sport-watch genre as a whole, as well as helped to spawn the subset of integrated-bracelet designs within it. But those are far from the only watches that can be attributed to Genta, and in fact, aren’t even the only integrated-bracelet sport-watch designs to come out of that era. In 1976, he also designed a new Ingenieur for IWC, known as the SL Ref. 1832 (tha...

Five Years With The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 In Moonshine Gold 310.60.42.50.99.001 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 Jul 2, 2024

Five Years With The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 In Moonshine Gold 310.60.42.50.99.001

In March 2019, Omega introduced the Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary edition in Moonshine Gold. This watch is a modern reproduction of the 1969 gold Moonwatch presented to US President Nixon, Vice President Agnew, and all active NASA astronauts at the time. That watch also became available to the general market, with a slightly […] Visit Five Years With The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 In Moonshine Gold 310.60.42.50.99.001 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Mondia Top Second Reissue - The Cult-Classic Flashing Dot Makes A Comeback Fratello
Jul 2, 2024

Hands-On With The Mondia Top Second Reissue - The Cult-Classic Flashing Dot Makes A Comeback

It has been quite some time since I wrote a hands-on review of a modern watch. When the news announcing the revival of my beloved Mondia Top Second hit our press mailbox last September, I instantly volunteered to look at it. A deep green sample of the new Mondia Top Second eventually landed safely on […] Visit Hands-On With The Mondia Top Second Reissue - The Cult-Classic Flashing Dot Makes A Comeback to read the full article.

Back To Basics: The Finishing Styles Unique To High-End Watches Explained Fratello
Jul 2, 2024

Back To Basics: The Finishing Styles Unique To High-End Watches Explained

We are back with another installment of Back to Basics, a series of articles aimed at newcomers to the watch hobby. This time, we will examine high-end finishing techniques. If you are new to the watch world, you may wonder what causes the massive differences in price between watches. One of many aspects at play […] Visit Back To Basics: The Finishing Styles Unique To High-End Watches Explained to read the full article.

Hands On: Lange Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary SJX Watches
Casio n worth marking Lange Jul 2, 2024

Hands On: Lange Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary

A. Lange & Söhne marks the 25th year of its landmark chronograph this year, with two commemorative editions so far – a tremendously expensive all-in-one edition and the relatively more accessible Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary. The first Datograph with a white gold case and also the first regular production model with a blue dial, the anniversary edition the result of a relatively modest cosmetic makeover – but unexpectedly compelling. Initial thoughts The Datograph in an imperfect watch – amongst other things it’s top heavy with a somewhat dated dial design – but it has an intrinsic appeal because its movement is outstanding. Even though it’s already 25 years old, the movement remains exceptional in terms of aesthetics. The fact that it’s 25 years old also makes the Datograph important, because Lange created such a movement long before such things became a thing. So the 25th anniversary of the Datograph is an occasion worth marking. Lange debuted two watches for the anniversary (with perhaps a third one to come): the complicated and expensive Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen, and the more accessible Datograph 25th Anniversary. On its face the Datograph Up/Down seems a bit mundane for an anniversary watch. Both the blue dial and white gold case are unique for the Datograph, but together the watch doesn’t look or feel that different. But like the Datograph as a model, the anniversary edition is imperfect yet appealing. Though it is plain...

Opinion: Maybe One Group Controlling All the Major Luxury Brands Would Be Bad? Worn & Wound
Jul 1, 2024

Opinion: Maybe One Group Controlling All the Major Luxury Brands Would Be Bad?

It’s been a slow few months in the watch industry. Not at all uncommon in the summer, and we haven’t even hit the real sleepy months yet, when most of Europe goes on holiday and American watch media is confronted with the reality that we’re working a beat that doesn’t really exist for a short period of time. But there was real news last week: Bloomberg reported that LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault owns a (small) personal stake in the Richemont Group, his closest rival in the luxury goods space. Once the news broke, many began to speculate. Hey, it’s a slow summer – speculating is what keeps us awake. Could this be a sign that LVMH is positioning itself to buy the Richemont Group? Could that even happen? What’s the actual point of antitrust laws anyway?  Bernard Arnault There’s no actual indication, of course, that Arnault wants to purchase Richemont. The holdings, according to Bloomberg, are part of a larger portfolio of Arnault family investments that include many publicly traded companies. No comment as of yet from Richemont or LVMH, although as many outlets are reporting, LVMH has a history of buying an interest in their rivals.  We live in a world where insane wealth becomes more insane every year, so it’s not a huge mental leap to think that Bernard Arnault, who on any given day might be the world’s wealthiest man, could have eyes on getting even richer. Taking an ownership stake in Richemont would almost certainly do that. It likely already has – Ric...