Hodinkee
Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York To Hold Classes In Atlanta, Tucson, And Toronto
These next rounds of classes will be hosted by the Atlanta Watch Society, Ben Bridge Jeweler, and IWC.
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Hodinkee
These next rounds of classes will be hosted by the Atlanta Watch Society, Ben Bridge Jeweler, and IWC.
Monochrome
A little while ago, we brought you the story of Quiet Club, an exciting new chapter in Japanese independent watchmaking with a unique perspective of what a watch should be. Following the first interview to learn more about how the three men behind Quiet Club found each other, and the initial launch of the fascinating […]
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we leave our lists of watches with famous movements behind and focus on the Rolex Submariner. As some of you will know, Rolex, Wallpaper*, and Nicholas Foulkes collaborated on Oyster Perpetual Submariner: The Watch that Unlocked the Deep. The book came out last week, and it brilliantly covers the […] Visit Fratello Top 5: The Rarest Steel Rolex Submariner References Ever Produced to read the full article.
Monochrome
When the Big Bang exploded on the watch scene in 2005, it was the paragon of an oversized, high-octane, octagonal sports watch flaunting an unusual fusion of materials. A decade later, the Spirit of Big Bang joined the lineup of Hublot. Embracing a similar concept, the Spirit proposed a more complex case with a tonneau-shaped, […]
Hodinkee
In Part 1 of this photo-filled trip through Japan, we take you behind the scenes of Seiko House Ginza, Atelier Ginza, and Shinshu Watch Studio – home of Spring Drive and The Micro Artist Studio.
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Time+Tide
Seiko returns to the GPS-enabled Astron line with a slimmer movement and a more approachable overall design with three new models.The post Seiko’s newest Astron GPS Solar 3X62s are the most conventional-looking, easy-to-operate GPS Astrons yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Christopher Ward teamed up with seconde/seconde/, resulting in a rather quirky version of the C65 Aquitaine. Let me introduce you to the C65 Desk Diver limited edition. Unlike most of seconde/seconde/’s subtle jabs at the watch world, this is a full-on tongue-in-cheek redesign of the C65 diver. Christopher Ward will produce 500 of these C65 […] Visit Introducing: The Christopher Ward × Seconde/Seconde/ C65 Desk Diver to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Working with creative makers like De Bethune, MB&F;, Stepan Sarpaneva, Bamford, Linde Werdelin and more, Gothenburg-based James Thompson – aka Black Badger – has become industry famous as the driving force of a new school of applications of luminous materials. Anders Modig takes us through Black Badger's history, along the way highlighting many of his colorful watch collaborations.
SJX Watches
A fever dream - form that bent and curved the very idea of what a wristwatch could be. The Cartier Crash, born out of myth and mystery, is no conventional timepiece. As established notions of purpose and design in watchmaking, the Crash exists at the intersection of watchmaking and sculpture. To the uninitiated, the Crash may seem bizarre, wildly eccentric for the sake of it, but to those steeped in horology, it is an icon. For me, Crash was more than just an addition to my collection; it was the culmination of years of passion, patience, and persistence. The author and his special order Crash A product of Swinging Sixties London There are watches that tell time, and then there are watches that tell stories. The Crash belongs to the latter category. Beyond its appearance, the allure of the Crash also stems from its founding myths. Introduced in 1967 by Cartier London – the jeweller was then three separate companies in Paris, New York, and the British capital – the Crash is easily the most avant-garde watch design ever produced by Cartier. Its warped, melted form defies the conventional standards that most watches adhere to, making it as much an artistic statement as a timekeeper. An example of a vintage London Crash To truly appreciate the significance of the Cartier Crash, one must delve into its history, which is almost as enigmatic as the watch itself. One popular origin story is macabre: a Cartier client wearing a Baignoire Allongée was in a car crash that damag...
Fratello
Today, we go hands-on with the Louis Moinet Speed of Sound chronograph. This is a stunning modern watch with a vintage heart. As we’ll see, the rare vintage movement has been modified functionally and cosmetically to offer a novel moonphase display. Credit is due to Louis Moinet for creating innovative ways of displaying traditional time-related […] Visit Hands-On With The Louis Moinet Speed Of Sound Chronograph to read the full article.
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Worn & Wound
There seems to be a clear correlation between watch enthusiasts and cinephiles. From Arnold Schwarzenegger’s Seiko H558-5009 (mentioned in one of my previous articles) to Marlon Brando’s bezel-less Rolex GMT Master 1675, watches and their film counterparts have been the focus of discussion in the watch collector space for years. While an Arnie will cost you around $500 and 1675s over $10k, pieces of film history can be obtained by hobbyists of all tax brackets. However, even the several hundred-dollar price for a girthy Seiko diver may still be out of the price range for many collectors who find the allure of Hollywood memorabilia sitting in their watch case to be intriguing. Enter the Timex Camper. In the opening sequence of Ethan and Joel Coen’s 2007 masterpiece film No Country for Old Men, protagonist Llewelyn Moss (played by Josh Brolin) tracks game animals across the West Texas plains. He bends down on one knee, takes his watch out, and holds it to the sun––attempting to use the shadows of the handset on the dial to track his direction. The audience fortunately gets a few frames of the watch on screen. What’s shown is a Timex Camper, dark green, with a matching fabric strap. It’s rather small in the shot, but us collectors will take whatever wristwatch screen time we can get. The Camper’s aesthetics obviously differentiate it from the aforementioned Arnie and 1675, but its most important trait for us is its price. For well under $100––commonly li...
Time+Tide
When Ulysse Nardin released a watch called the Freak in 2001, it broke all the rules and changed the game.The post When Ulysse Nardin let its Freak flag fly, it changed watchmaking forever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
By now, you probably know we’re fans of RZE here at Fratello. The brand’s titanium watches are affordable, and they all have a strong explorer attitude. The RZE Fortitude GMT is a proper pilot’s watch that allows you to track an additional time zone. Today, the new RZE Fortitude GMT-S debuts, with the capital “S” […] Visit Hands-On: The New RZE Fortitude GMT-S With Vivid Blue And Gray Sunburst Dials to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Essentially smaller versions of the preceding models, the Millesime Central Seconds and Millesime Moon Phase in 35 mm are the latest additions to Raymond Weil’s successful line of vintage-inspired watches. Debuting with five different variants, the new Millesime models retain the aesthetic that made the earlier versions popular: a contemporary interpretation of “sector” dial watches of the early 20th century. Initial thoughts Regarded as a “mall watch” brand for years – but nonetheless a profitable business of decent scale – Raymond Weil hadn’t been on the radar of most watch enthusiasts for some time. So when the Millesime won the award for watches under CHF3,000 at last year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), many of us were surprised. The Millesime, however, is more than a “mall watch”. It has good proportions with a “sector” dial that is well-balanced, and underneath is a no-frills, reliable Sellita movement. It is an affordable watch and has the build quality to match, but that is a fact rather than a criticism. Priced between US$1,650 and US$2,575 depending on the model, the 35 mm Millesime remains good value. It brings the “sector” dial-look to someone who wants a smaller watch. Vintage-inspired aesthetics The new Millesime takes after the original model, which was just under 40 mm. The case is nearly identical in design, a three-part affair with a flat bezel, large, fluted crown, and “glass box” sapphire crystal that ...
Fratello
Venezianico is a young brand from Venice that continues to roll out new releases. Today, the Arsenale joins the lineup, and while it contains familiar styling details, the watch can claim a historic local building as the source of inspiration. This is a watch that should please those looking for value and refinement. I’ve now […] Visit Introducing: The New Venezianico Arsenale Collection to read the full article.
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Quill & Pad
The Wyler Vetta Beaux Arts collection’s design language is firmly rooted in its Italian origins. Love it or hate it, one glance will confirm you’re in the presence of something decidedly different.
Worn & Wound
Earlier this year, Zenith revealed a revived version of a classic part of their past in the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. The triple calendar, with apertures for day and month alongside the 9:00 and 3:00 subdials, is an old fashioned complication with a ton of charm, and works particularly well in a heritage inspired watch like the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. When it was launched several months ago, it was clear to everyone that it would eventually produce additional variants, and here, for the first time, it’s the canvas for a limited edition, Zenith’s third with Hodinkee. The new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Limited Edition for Hodinkee reframes the concept of the watch and the result is quite handsome and a nice extension of their previous collaborations. The idea behind this limited edition, according to Hodinkee and Zenith, is to bring together elements of the past, present, and future. This, of course, is something all mechanical watches do in their own way, with their centuries old technology, modern manufacturing techniques, and the hope that any watch will provide multiple generations with reliable service. This LE’s approach is both fanciful and literal. For example, it’s powered by a movement that can only be described as advanced and modern. The Caliber 3610 is a high frequency movement with a chronograph capable of timing events to the 1/10th of a second. But it’s also a bit anachronistic, with a calendar complication...
Hodinkee
The movement maker's Director of Innovation and Marketing discusses collecting chronographs, Sellita, and what the Swiss watch industry can do better.
Worn & Wound
Back in January 2023, Fears and Christopher Ward collaborated on the Alliance 01, the first limited edition watch made specifically for the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers. The watch became an immediate cult sensation, partly due to its unusual jump hour complication, and partly because it was just plain rare, right from the start. The watch was only available to members of the Alliance, a smaller group for sure than the typical audience for either brand. But when a watch like this appears, something with a highly specific complication that also strikes a chord with the community, we know that it’s only a matter of time before a version comes along that’s more widely accessible. Well, that time is now. Today, Fears introduces what they refer to as an evolution of the Alliance 01, the all new Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour. At its core, this is still very much the watch that we saw back in early 2023. It keeps the 40.5mm Brunswick case, a cushion case design that splits the difference nicely between sporty and something more refined. I happen to own a Brunswick, and find that the case is something of a chameleon – on the right strap it feels like a true dress watch, and on a bracelet, worn casually, it has an almost Datejust-like quality, which is to say it’s right in the middle of that dress/sport spectrum. But the real heart of the watch is Christopher Ward’s module, also carried over from the Alliance 01, that allows for the jumping hour complication. ...
Worn & Wound
When you work in the watch industry, one of the questions you get asked over and over again is “What’s the best watch for $XXX?” The dollar amount is constantly shifting depending on who is asking the question or their level of horological curiosity, but over time I think most of develop a stock answer to questions like these. My favorite recommendation for almost anyone asking about watches under $1,000 is some version of the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. These are, and have always been, fantastic watches. They’re affordable, easy to read, and now come in a variety of sizes, dial colors, and case metals to suit just about any taste. But the not-so-secret weapon, in my opinion, is the manually wound movement. If using a watch like this everyday, dutifully winding it as needed, doesn’t hook you on this hobby, I kind of don’t know what will. My own admiration for the mechanical versions of these watches aside, it comes as no real surprise that Hamilton would want to expand the potential reach of the Khaki Field by offering an even easier to wear quartz version. And that’s what we have here. It’s a somewhat strange proposition, taking a watch whose identity, such as it is, is based around a mechanical caliber, and removing it entirely from the equation, but it turns out that even in a quartz configuration the Khaki Field retains a lot of its character. The new Khaki Field Quartz watches are available in both the familiar 38mm and a new 33mm size in whit...
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Time+Tide
The new Tissot Chemin Des Tourelles Skeleton Black presents a classic dress watch that leans further into a modern feel.The post The Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton merges modern and classical at an approachable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
A revolution in affordable Haute Horlogerie with the latest M.A.D.1S. What We Love: Affordable haute horology timepiece The three-blade rotor design is well thought out, with it becoming even more fun with lume activated! Despite its thickness, the timepiece sits very well on the wrist thanks to the flat case back. What We Don’t: The hour time barrel is read right to left as it spins counter-clockwise when it should be read left to right The racing-inspired textile leather strap lacks adjustment for slim wrists. Lack of secondary strap choices from M.A.D Editions! Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The M.A.D.1S. is one of the best, if not the best, horological “fun” pieces that are available on the market right now. There are not too many other watches in the luxury world of horology that offer such an amusing timepiece that gets everyone talking, even non-watchgoers! The M.A.D 1 has a relatively short-lived history, as it was first released in June 2021; however, since then, it has been met with an overwhelming reception, giving more and more incentive for the M.A.D. Editions brand to keep creating more innovative, affordable entertainment timepieces! View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) The brand new 2024 M.A.D.1S. models To understand how M.A.D.1 first came about, we need to look at how the brand M.A.D Edition started and how its big sister brand, MB&F;, played a maj...
Fratello
It takes guts to walk around wearing a large, all-gold integrated-bracelet sports watch. This genre is not for the faint of heart. I like to think I’m fairly spunky, so I figured, “Why not?” I reached out to Girard-Perregaux and asked if I could try the latest gold Laureato 42mm models. When a rather weighty […] Visit Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm In 18K Pink Gold to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) debuts the revamped Duometre line earlier this year, including the Duometre Chronograph Moon (and the entry-level Quantieme Lunaire). The watch incorporates almost every possible complication, some clever and others barely related, to create a chronograph that incudes a host of other simple functions, ranging from a day-night indicator to twin power reserves. Traditionally, the Duometre was centred on the chronograph, which makes this the line’s flagship model. It’s essentially an evolution of the first-generation model, retaining a chronograph mechanism that is compact and clever, but gains additional complications that feel extraneous. The platinum model gets a copper or “salmon” dial Initial thoughts The Duometre Chronograph Moon reflects many of JLC’s strengths, particularly as a movement maker. The movement inside is the sophisticated cal. 391 that makes logical use of the two-train construction to power a smartly designed chronograph mechanism. Visually, the movement is appealing and boasts quality, workmanlike finishing with details like a free-sprung balance and grande sonnerie-style winding clicks. Although it is industrial haute horlogerie, the calibre is clearly best in class. The cal. 391 Both barrels each sport grande sonnerie-style winding clicks But the cal. 391 is nearly identical to the cal. 380 found in the first-generation Duometre introduced in 2007. While it is an accomplished movement, the cal. 391 is hardly novel. Ins...
Worn & Wound
There are a handful of constants in the watch world that are truly worth celebrating: the annual crush of people on Geneva each spring for Watches & Wonders, the annual debate over whether a “summer watch” is a thing, and that first comment on any IG post that begs a watch to be a millimeter or two smaller. Like clockwork (pardon the pun) you can count on these things, year in and year out, and there’s comfort in that. Another reliable watch industry trope comes to us on a regular basis from Seiko in the form of the Cocktail Time limited edition, a tradition that began with a watch that is a true enthusiast icon, and now stands as a running series of just plain good dress watches that Seiko is somehow able to keep at a remarkably affordable price point. The legend of the Cocktail Time really begins in earnest with the SARB065, a Japanese domestic market release that caught on with collectors in an earlier era of watch enthusiasm (the early 2010s) when message boards ruled the day. This particular watch is one that I can remember owning years ago and also being among the chorus of internet commenters recommending it to new enthusiasts when the inevitable question of “what dress watch under $XXX should I buy?” would come up. The new Cocktail Time watches, references SRPK93 and SRE015, are said to be inspired by the city of Tokyo at night, and the “Night-time Tokyo” cocktail created by STAR BAR owner Hisashi Kishi. Kishi is a celebrated creator of craft cockta...
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