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Hats-Off to Hugo Rittener’s Le Majordome SJX Watches
Mar 2, 2026

Hats-Off to Hugo Rittener’s Le Majordome

The niche market for modern automatons just a little less tiny with Hugo Rittener’s Le Majordome, a mechanical butler that pop ups and greet the onlooker on demand. In the tradition of historical automatons, Le Majordome is entirely mechanical and driven by complex clockwork, and made entirely by hand. Initial thoughts Hugo Rittener is a young automaton maker from the Vaud region of Switzerland. Having cut his teeth working with François Junod, one of the most celebrated talents in the field, Mr Rittener has now gone into business for himself. Against this backdrop, Le Majordome (“the butler” in English) represents a foundational release. Compared to the timepieces we sometimes call mechanical art, this tabletop automaton serves no actual utility; there’s no time-telling and no complication other than the bronze figure itself. In terms of pure mechanical art, this is as artful as it gets. Having taken over 1,000 hours of work, from design to finishing, the (Le) Majordome is a mechanical animation of a bronze-sculpted and gold-plated butler figure, which raises his top hat towards those who actuate the mechanism.   Mr Rittener poetically describes the Majordome as an automate d’accueil - meaning “welcoming automaton”. The mechanical butler does in fact greet its audience, so it could be used as an extravagant welcoming party trick. Hugo Rittener will make 10 pieces of the Majordome in total, over the course of some years. Given the highly artisanal process...

Zodiac and GiantMouse Collaborate on a Unique Super Sea Wolf and Dive Knife Set Worn & Wound
Zodiac Feb 24, 2026

Zodiac and GiantMouse Collaborate on a Unique Super Sea Wolf and Dive Knife Set

We’ve discussed the connection between watches and knives at length in these pages, and I think at this point it’s pretty clear why the overlap between knife and EDC enthusiasts and watch collectors is so strong. There’s a clear shared interest in well made things between both communities, and a sense that the tools you carry with you and wear matter in a way that’s both practical and sentimental. Given all that, it’s perhaps a little surprising that we don’t see more releases like this collaboration between Zodiac and GiantMouse Knives, which seeks to make that connection explicit rather than simply implied.  The GiantMouse x Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Watch and Dive Knife set consists of, well, a Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Pro Diver and a dive knife created by GiantMouse for this specific release. The origin of the collaboration rests with GiantMouse founder Jim Worth, who connected with the Zodiac team at a Windup Watch Fair event, where the seeds of a collaborative project were planted. If you’ve had a chance to talk to Jim at a Windup event or elsewhere, you know that he’s not just playing a watch guy at our shows – he’s a true enthusiast. He’s particularly interested in vintage dive and sports watches, and a vintage Zodiac in a similar color way provided the inspiration for this release.  We’ll start with the watch. The Super Sea Wolf Pro Diver is a 42mm stainless steel diver with 300 meters of water resistance, and this edition features a black dial,...

Seconde/Seconde/’s Cutting Take on the Citizen Tsuyosa SJX Watches
Citizen Tsuyosa Citizen one Feb 21, 2026

Seconde/Seconde/’s Cutting Take on the Citizen Tsuyosa

Citizen, one of the world’ largest watchmakers by numbers, teams up with niche Parisian watch customizer Romaric André for a surprisingly good collaboration with the Citizen Tsuyosa seconde/seconde/. Creative, quirky, and very affordable, the Tsuyosa collaboration depicts the aftermath of the minutes hand slicing through the applied hour markers. And it does it quite well: the artfully positioned hour markers really do look like they have been cut in half. Initial Thoughts Citizen’s latest Tsuyosa is interesting, clever, and affordable. In fact, it is only around US$20 more expensive than the entry level Tsuyosa, making it something of a no-brainer for someone who wants a well-priced watch with a sense of humour. Like Seiko’s “5KX”, the Tsuyosa is an ideal platform for this project, as the model has intrinsic appeal as an integrated bracelet sports-adjacent watch, while also being affordable enough to be an impulse buy based on a cool dial. Nitpickers might point out that a pixellated sword isn’t sharp enough. The pixel art “sword” minute hand may be seconde/seconde/’s best known motif, but it also requires suspension of belief that the hour markers have been cleaved in twain by the minutes hand. Which is unfortunate, as the effect is otherwise so well executed. Of course, without the 8-bit katana it wouldn’t be immediately recognisable as a seconde/seconde/ project, but that is true of many of the best Mr André’s best works, such as the Uncatchable...

Orient Star’s M34 F8 Skeleton is Space-Age Tech SJX Watches
Seiko Epson including Feb 18, 2026

Orient Star’s M34 F8 Skeleton is Space-Age Tech

Orient Star marks a milestone with the M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding 75th Anniversary, combining the brand’s technically adept, manually wound skeleton calibre with a novel, laser-engraved meteorite pattern in a maximalist open-worked package. The M34 F8 Skeleton also stands out for the tech inside the mechanical movement: proprietary silicon escape wheel with a novel, optimistic geometry that helps the M34 punch above its weight from a technical standpoint. Initial thoughts Last year, Orient Star launched the brand’s first manually wound moon phase – made of mother-of-pearl no less – for fans of understated, formal watches. Now celebrating its 75th anniversary, Orient Star has cast aside restraint to mark the occasion with something for a more maximalist breed of collector. The new skeleton has a blacked-out case and bracelet and an open-worked version of its top-of-the-line F8 movement. Notably, the movement plates are bridges, which are exposed front and back, are decorated with a laser-etched meteorite motif that is impressively detailed. This skeletonised anniversary limited edition also features the latest technology from its powerhouse parent company Seiko Epson, including a silicon escape wheel with an especially advantageous design. While silicon is increasingly common in the watch industry, it is used primarily for hairsprings. This puts Orient on the list of short brands with a proprietary silicon escape wheel that includes blue-chip names like Patek Phil...

Timex Unearths a Forgotten Cinematic Cult Classic with the Q Timex Red Vega 1978 Reissue Worn & Wound
Timex Unearths Feb 10, 2026

Timex Unearths a Forgotten Cinematic Cult Classic with the Q Timex Red Vega 1978 Reissue

When I began writing my most recent article on the original Timex Q Nebula a month ago, I had no idea how timely its release would be several weeks later. My article hit the website on January 29th, and less than a week later, Timex announced the reissue of this model with the Red Vega moniker. While I had initially claimed in my work that I was the creator of the “Timex Vega” nickname, I will gladly concede my very small and inconsequential victory to Timex, knowing they must’ve brainstormed this name many months before I did. At this rate, I’m just happy to see this watch finally receive the proper reissue treatment. Let’s talk about its design and specs. First, of course, is the dial. The nebula pattern on the example featured in Timex’s promotional shots of the watch is phenomenal. With sharp edges and a bright red hue, it’s well executed and packs a vibrant punch. I haven’t heard if the dial design will vary between examples, so be on the lookout as other photos emerge to see if there are any differences in pattern. The 38mm brushed and polished stainless-steel case looks great from all angles and helps keep the case almost as interesting as the dial and crystal. Oh yeah, how did I not mention the crystal yet? These reissues will feature multifaceted acrylic crystals similar to those offered on the original 1978 model––a very welcome and unique touch.  Having the unique perspective of a historian who’s done an ample amount of research on this sp...

Is The Baume & Mercier Clifton The Perfect Gentleman’s Watch? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Baume & Mercier Clifton Feb 6, 2026

Is The Baume & Mercier Clifton The Perfect Gentleman’s Watch? (Hands-On)

Though the aftershocks of news surrounding Baume & Mercier is still being felt, does their new Clifton keep the ball rolling? Let’s find out! What We Love: Elegant, slim case silhouette One of the comfiest bracelets I’ve ever worn Baumatic = Best value? What We Don’t: Fairly ordinary appearance, not for those wanting dramatic flair Bracelet finishing invites scratches and smudges Crown operation feels off Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Is the dress watch dead? Both Matt and I have attempted to answer this question on separate occasions. Matt argued that, in the contemporary space, the dress watch has fallen out of favour. I, on the other hand, believe dress watches remain prevalent and are thriving within the accessible segment of quartz timepieces. However, there are still a handful of brands that have committed themselves to collections defined by elegant aesthetics and attainable price points. One of these brands, Raymond Weil, is one we’ve discussed extensively, but they are far from the only player in this market. WATCH EDUCATION: An Introduction Into Baume & Mercier Founded in 1830, Baume & Mercier has maintained a notable presence within this relatively accessible tier of luxury watchmaking. A long-time subsidiary of the Richemont Group since 1988, the brand has used this period to develop watches that are balanced yet distinctive, both in design and mechanics. While the Riviera collection...

Vacheron Constantin Introduces a New Titanium Tourbillon with a Deep Red Dial Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Feb 3, 2026

Vacheron Constantin Introduces a New Titanium Tourbillon with a Deep Red Dial

One thing I loved about graduating from a relatively small district in rural Pennsylvania is that it wasn’t necessarily like the high school experiences I saw reflected in television. Due to the general population at my school never hitting above 200 students, cliques were permeable and caste systems were divided more by how often you had class with the same people versus, say, any general interests. While we are led to believe that high school is a microcosm of real life, and that people can generally be categorized by such surface-level things like hobbies or intelligence, I think my upbringing has allowed for me to see that one thing can contain multitudes. Because of this, I’d hate to box the new Vacheron Constantin addition to their Overseas Collection, a titanium tourbillon model, into one category or the other. It’s sporty and technical – or, if we’re keeping with the high school theme– a jock and a geek. Now that I’ve beaten that analogy to death, we can go onto the specifics of this latest reference from the Swiss watch brand. From a design standpoint, it has all the hallmarks of Vacheron Constantin design language: clean lines, a classic silhouette, and a balance of keeping it traditional without being boring. Even so, the design’s deep red sunburst dial, visible tourbillon movement, and use of titanium add just enough of an update to the collection to be notable. Of course, these aren’t all for aesthetiques. The use of Grade 5 titanium and an u...

Industry News: Sellita Introduces the SW200-2 with 65 Hour Power Reserve Worn & Wound
Tissot as Jan 26, 2026

Industry News: Sellita Introduces the SW200-2 with 65 Hour Power Reserve

There’s a “don’t change it if it ain’t broke” mentality in Swiss watchmaking. Progress is slow, and it often seems that there’s a general distrust of change. An example of this is in the mechanical movements that power most of our watches. Chances are, you have at least one watch with an ETA 2824 or a movement based on the 2824 in your collection. If you’re like me, you have several. For Swiss-made watches of a certain price point, they are the standard. They are “workhorses” that, while not the most feature-rich, offer reliability and serviceability. And part of the reason for that is that the design has been around, largely unchanged, since the 1970s (the 2824-2, which is the current standard, was released in the 80s). That is, until 2013, when ETA launched 80-hour movements based on the 2824-2. First debuted in a Tissot as the Powermatic 80, ETA nearly doubled the 2824’s power reserve by slowing the escapement’s frequency from 28,800bph to 21,600bph, introducing synthetic components, and increasing the mainspring’s capacity. The biggest update to the 2824 format in a generation (though they no longer use that numbering), as ETA is part of Swatch, these movements gave the group’s catalog of brands under Omega an unexpected edge in the market, but were not available to third-party brands, thus limiting their overall impact. The ETA 2824 featured in a Sinn 556i In 2003, Sellita began supplying movements to third parties as a response to Swatch’s...

Fratello’s Top 5 Small-Brand Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Echo/Neutra, Laventure, Berneron, And More Fratello
Berneron Dec 26, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Small-Brand Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Echo/Neutra, Laventure, Berneron, And More

Another Friday, another list! We hope you had a wonderful Christmas Day with plenty of delicious food and refreshing drinks. As you recover from potential late-night celebrations, we offer some light entertainment today. For our series of best-of-2025 articles, it’s now time to look at some of this year’s best small-brand watches. After last week’s […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Small-Brand Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Echo/Neutra, Laventure, Berneron, And More to read the full article.

Space Time: Seiko’s Star-Powered Astron GPS SJX Watches
Citizen Dec 17, 2025

Space Time: Seiko’s Star-Powered Astron GPS

In the run-up to the holidays, Seiko facelifts its high-spec, multi-function quartz watch with the Astron GPS Solar refs. SSJ039 and SSH187 - limited editions of its satellite-linked models. While not available in stores until January, the new references make their public debut almost exactly 56 years to the day when the original Astron, the world’s first quartz wristwatch, was launched on December 25, 1969. Initial thoughts Despite pioneering efforts to develop quartz watches in Switzerland, and the commercialisation of category-defining products like the Swatch, the alpine nation has tended to lag a step behind its rivals from the land of the rising sun when it comes to quartz technology. As quartz watches matured and the underlying technology became commoditised, much of the Swiss watch industry redoubled its focus on mechanical watches, seemingly content to cede quartz leadership to brands like Seiko and Citizen. For their part, the dominant Japanese brands have continued to develop quartz watches with conscientious enthusiasm, bringing solar charging, radio frequency and satellite-based connectivity, and ultra-precise oscillators to maturity. In that context, the Seiko Astron is the embodiment of more than half a century of quartz leadership, and combines several of the brand’s strengths in two distinct limited edition models. Though the four-figure prices may come as a shock to buyers more familiar with offerings from brands like Apple, Garmin, and Casio, the A...

Introducing Temporal Works, a New Brand from the Armoury’s Mark Cho Worn & Wound
Louis Vuitton Dec 4, 2025

Introducing Temporal Works, a New Brand from the Armoury’s Mark Cho

For those familiar with New York-by-way-of-Hong Kong menswear retailer The Armoury, Mark Cho’s move into watches won’t come as any major shock. His brand has long flirted with watchmakers and collaboration over the years, including with H. Moser & Cie., UNIMATIC, and Paulin. Now, Temporal Works, co-founded with The Armoury’s creative director, Elliot Hammer, is the natural progression for the brand. Their inaugural collection, Series A, reflects the same approach that has defined The Armoury since it opened in 2010 (and why the store has recently been named one of New York Times’ top 50 menswear stores in the country). Taking inspiration from a bygone era of tailoring, The Armoury is all wood-paneled, brick-walled masculinity that celebrates an inherent grace when dressing well.  The Series A has this same throughline, using Cho’s singular vision of his retail store – masculine, elegant, and minimalist. In fact, the connection between Temporal Works and his existing brand is a throughline explicitly made by the founder, who noted, “Our goal was straightforward: create watches as thoughtfully designed and effortlessly wearable as a perfectly tailored navy blazer.” This jumping-off point seems to work in both Hammer and Cho’s favor, as the Series A clearly shows an unwavering vision of a brand identity that feels complementary without being derivative (something other lifestyle-to-watch brands like Louis Vuitton and Montblanc sometimes struggle with). This...

Piaget Polo Review: How The '80s Luxury Watch Icon Holds Up Teddy Baldassarre
Piaget Dec 1, 2025

Piaget Polo Review: How The '80s Luxury Watch Icon Holds Up

While it’s more widely known for its jewelry these days, Piaget, founded in the small Swiss village of La Cote-aux-Fées by Georges Piaget in 1874, has been a watchmaker from the beginning. Its original trade, in fact, was making movements, and the company began making complete watches in In the 20th century. Before getting into the Piaget Polo, it's worth it to get into the brand's history in thin watchmaking. Since 1957, when Piaget created the historic 2mm-thick Caliber 9P, the company has been world renowned for the elegant thinness of its watches and movements. The world’s thinnest self-winding mechanical movement, Caliber 12P, followed Caliber 9P just three years later, in 1960, and Piaget has building upon these foundations ever since. Its most recent triumph in this area was the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, which debuted in 2018 as a prototype and hit the market in 2020; the entire watch, case and movement, is just 2mm thick, matching the wafer thinness of the original Caliber 9P. Along with Bulgari, another watchmaker known more for its jewelry, Piaget continues to embody the ne plus ultra of what ultra-thin watchmaking can accomplish.  [toc-section heading="The Integrated Bracelet Era Begins"] However, while “thin and elegant” remains the calling card of the Piaget watch brand overall, the market was looking for something a little different - a little bolder, perhaps - in the 1970s. Audemars Piguet had introduced its groundbreaking Royal Oak “Jumbo...

Highlights: Complicated Patek Philippe at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nov 21, 2025

Highlights: Complicated Patek Philippe at Christie’s Hong Kong

Christie’s Hong Kong returns this autumn with an extraordinary offering of rare and important Patek Philippe watches, headlined by a ref. 1518 in yellow gold. The auction is defined by two major private collections, most notably Part 2 of The Chronicle Collection - the successor to this spring’s successful first chapter. From neo-vintage rarities to heavyweight modern complications, the sale presents one of the of the most interesting Patek Philippe selections of the season. Lot 2225 – Patek Philippe Ref. 3979HJ Minute Repeater The story of Patek Philippe’s mastery of the modern minute repeater begins in 1989 with the launch of the ref. 3979 and the calibre R 27 PS. Launched to commemorate the brand’s 150th anniversary, the ref. 3979 was the brand’s first automatic minute repeater, and its first wristwatch to feature a silent centripetal governor, which was still novel at the time. According to the serial number, the present lot was the 47th ref. 3979 to be made, out of approximately 100 units produced over a nine year run. Further distinguishing the current lot is its classical enamel dial, which was a relatively uncommon configuration for this reference. The compact 33 mm yellow gold case is a love letter to classical dress watches. The case itself was made by Ateliers Rèunis, the brand’s own case maker, and was manufactured in the building that now houses the Patek Philippe museum. Today, more than 35 years after its launch, the cal. R 27 PS is still am...

In-Depth – The Urwerk x Ulysse Nardin UR-FREAK, An Unexpected Collab with a Stunning Result Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin UR-FREAK Nov 19, 2025

In-Depth – The Urwerk x Ulysse Nardin UR-FREAK, An Unexpected Collab with a Stunning Result

Not many contemporary watchmaking creations have influenced our perception of time display as dramatically as the 2001 Ulysse Nardin Freak and Urwerk’s wandering-hour satellites. Both were born from the late-1990s creative surge, when mechanical horology strongly demonstrated its experimental and innovative spirit. Ulysse Nardin’s Freak redefined the mechanical wristwatch by eliminating the dial, hands, and […]