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Grand Seiko Introduces the Elegance Collection ’60th Anniversary’ Engraved SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Mar 5, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the Elegance Collection ’60th Anniversary’ Engraved

Twenty-twenty marks the 60th year of Grand Seiko and the brand is pulling no punches with its high-end commemorative editions. Dedicated to Grand Seiko’s workshop in the town of Shizukuishi, the 60th anniversary pair of Elegance Collection Thin Dress watches both feature decorative engraving, but executed by hand and machine respectively. Located in the northern province of Iwate, Shizukuishi is a small town surrounded by mountains, including the imposing Mount Iwate, which is an active volcano. The town is home to the Shizukuishi Watch Studio, where the best mechanical Grand Seiko watches are produced (Spring Drive watches, on the other hand, are produced at Seiko-Epson’s facility in Shiojiri in Nagano province). Elegance Collection ’60th Anniversary’ hand-engraved SBGW263 (left) and machine-engraved SBGW264 Shizukuishi, or しずく いし, translates literally as “water droplet on stone” – shizuku is “droplet” and ishi means “stone”. Legend has it that the town was founded a millennia ago when an old man living in the area heard the sound of dripping water, which originated in a cave where water from the ceiling was dripping onto the rocks below. The Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Thin Dress ’60th Anniversary’ Hand Engraved (ref. SBGW263) is a nod to the ancient origin story. It featured a solid gold dial hand engraved with a motif inspired by the town’s founding. Made entirely of 18k white gold, the dial is comprised of three parts – bas...

Restoring my Great-Grandfather’s Omega Seamaster Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster We all have Mar 3, 2020

Restoring my Great-Grandfather’s Omega Seamaster

We all have those knick-knacks lying around that get forgotten. Dried-up sharpies, matchboxes, and screwdrivers are the common offenders in my household, however there had always been one outlier. A small, unassuming wristwatch had been sitting in an antique drawer for at least 20 years.  Freshly into my 20s, I landed a job that meant … ContinuedThe post Restoring my Great-Grandfather’s Omega Seamaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Watchmakers Announce Geneva Watch Days [Postponed] SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Gerald Genta Ulysse Nardin Mar 3, 2020

Business News: Watchmakers Announce Geneva Watch Days [Postponed]

Following the cancellation of both the year’s biggest watch fairs – Baselworld and Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG) – due to the COVID-19 coronavirus, a consortium of watch brands have come together to show their wares come April. The event, dubbed Geneva Watch Days, was the brainchild of Bulgari and its chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin – one of the first brands to pull out of Baselworld – and conceived with European press and retailers in mind. [Update March 24, 2020: GWD will now take place August 26-29, 2020 instead.] WWG to GWD Taking place when WWG was due to happen, April 26 to 29, Geneva Watch Days now has a line-up of brands big and small: Girard-Perregaux, Gerald Genta, Ulysse Nardin, Breitling, MB&F;, De Bethune and Urwerk. A handful more might sign on, including H. Moser & Cie. and Chopard. However, at present, none of the brands belonging to the major watchmaking conglomerates, Richemont or Swatch Group, or either of the Geneva giants, namely Rolex and Patek Philippe, has announced their participation – and are unlikely to due to the complexities of the industry. Crucially, Geneva Watch Days is not a fair per se, rather it is a series of events organised by brands in separate venues, including boutiques and hotels, but happening during the same period. Because the individual events during Geneva Watch Days are small-scale and discrete, none of them will run counter to the Swiss government’s temporary ban on events with over 1,000 people. ...

Daft Punk is not playing at our house. It’s better. HSNY is at our office to party. Time+Tide
Feb 10, 2020

Daft Punk is not playing at our house. It’s better. HSNY is at our office to party.

I don’t know about you, Australian watch lovers, but I’ve always looked lustfully, enviously and with more than just a faint sense of sadness at all the things the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) get up to over there. Somewhere. Beyond the sea. Not only in America, mind you. Wherever they go with their … ContinuedThe post Daft Punk is not playing at our house. It’s better. HSNY is at our office to party. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The bold and blue Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Time+Tide
Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Most brands Feb 3, 2020

INTRODUCING: The bold and blue Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary

Most brands enjoy celebrating anniversaries based around the centenary, but not Grand Seiko, and it actually makes sense. In watchmaking, the number 60 is significantly more important than 50, as it takes 60 seconds to make a minute, and 60 minutes to make an hour, as well as that in Japan the number 60 signifies … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The bold and blue Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: The remarkable innovation of the Patek Philippe Solar Clock Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Solar Clock While Patek Jan 31, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: The remarkable innovation of the Patek Philippe Solar Clock

While Patek Philippe are kept most popularly in the mind today through a handful of steel sports watches and the lyrics of chart-topping songs, the company has a history of remarkable innovation that is sometimes overlooked. In the middle of last century - 1950 to be precise - the Genevan firm released a solar-powered table clock, an … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The remarkable innovation of the Patek Philippe Solar Clock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Forget the Rolex Daytona on Antiques Roadshow, here are three watches to stash in your safe now Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona Jan 29, 2020

Forget the Rolex Daytona on Antiques Roadshow, here are three watches to stash in your safe now

If you’re reading this, then chances are you’ve already seen the amazing video on America’s Antiques Roadshow of a US Air Force veteran and his mint Rolex Daytona Ref.6263. If not, stop reading this and watch the below video right now: I think we can all agree … this is a pretty staggering video. And it … ContinuedThe post Forget the Rolex Daytona on Antiques Roadshow, here are three watches to stash in your safe now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 11: The ceramic Bausele pilot’s watch with a difference Time+Tide
Bausele pilot’s watch Jan 27, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 11: The ceramic Bausele pilot’s watch with a difference

The Bausele Pilot Automatic All Black features an unusual and eye-catching dial layout. The dial has been rotated, moving the 12 from where it normally sits to what is traditionally the two o’clock position. Built with the modern aviator in mind, it is a functional choice, allowing the time to be easily read without removing … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 11: The ceramic Bausele pilot’s watch with a difference appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 10: Dive into the world of Seiko Prospex Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex Jan 27, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 10: Dive into the world of Seiko Prospex

In the world of Seiko diving watches, the collection of watches known as Prospex is actually a contraction of ‘Professional Specifications’, a reference to the very high standards that the watches are manufactured to. As a result, all watches in the collection are remarkably robust, water resistant and built with ultimate functionality in mind. In … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 10: Dive into the world of Seiko Prospex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania Time+Tide
Seiko Mania Great ‘Grams Sketching Jan 9, 2020

Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania

Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania It’s the start of a new decade, and as we hit the Roaring ’20s, there’s no sign that anyone is spending any less time on Instagram - especially if they love watches. With that in mind, I thought I’d do my best to put all of the … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: Sketching, Auction Hype and Seiko Mania appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Répétition Jan 3, 2020

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle

Chiming movements – as in a minute repeater or grande sonnerie – have been fairly consistent in construction, being both rare and difficult to master, let alone be improved upon. But over the past two decades, Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed an impressive number of engineering improvements for its repeating movements, from “trebuchet” hammers that are hinged like the medieval catapult for enhanced striking power, to “crystal” gongs that are welded to the sapphire crystal to boost volume. This year, the brand has added to its list of striking innovations with revamped, ultra-long gongs in the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle, which was designed to raise both the quality and quantity of the chimes. The Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle with a grained, silver dial An elaborate case Available with the dial in either a blue flinqué enamel or a simpler, silvered and grained finish, the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle (MGTRMP) combines a minute repeater with one of the most user-friendly perpetual calendar mechanisms on the market, plus automatic winding. The self-winding capability is important and practical, because the movement has a short 38-hour power reserve. The two dial variants. Image – Jaeger-LeCoultre All of that is naturally voluminous, and packed into a large white gold case measuring 43mm wide and 13.72mm high. Though by no means a small watch, it is surprisingly thin for such a grand...

Jaquet Droz’s Charming Bird Deconstruction By The Naked Watchmaker (Plus Video) Quill & Pad
Jaquet Droz Dec 4, 2019

Jaquet Droz’s Charming Bird Deconstruction By The Naked Watchmaker (Plus Video)

Ian Skellern still remembers the sense of awe he felt when he had the opportunity to watch and listen to a recently restored centuries-old Jaquet Droz singing bird. The animation was compelling, and the quality of the birdsong sound was incredible. But as impressive a feat he thought that full-sized eighteenth-century Jaquet Droz singing bird clock was, shrinking that mechanical technology to wristwatch size is just mind-blowing. As The Naked Watchmaker, Peter Speake-Marin, highlights here.

Hands-On: Vacheron Constantin Overseas “Everest” Dual-Time Prototype in Titanium SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas “Everest” Dual-Time Prot... Dec 2, 2019

Hands-On: Vacheron Constantin Overseas “Everest” Dual-Time Prototype in Titanium

In early June 2019, American mountaineer Cory Richards embarked on his third attempt at scaling Mount Everest – after successfully reaching the summit twice before, including once without oxygen – but had to give up halfway due to dangerous weather. In fact, the year’s climbing season was one of the deadliest in recent years, with 11 climbers dead or missing. Prior to his valiant but unsuccessful attempt at Everest, Mr Richards worked with Vacheron Constantin to develop a watch for the occasion. He wanted something light, robust and able to track two time zones. Mr Richards at Everest base camp wearing the Overseas Dual Time prototype. Photo – Vacheron Constantin/Keith Ladzinski The beefed-up Overseas The result was the one-off Overseas Dual-Time prototype that looks a great deal more aggressive than the average Overseas. In fact, the designers at Vacheron Constantin managed to boost its presence and sportiness without bulking it up too much; the diameter remains the same. Mr Richards wore the watch up Everest, and now Vacheron Constantin has donated it to charity. Exactly as it was when Mr Richards left Mount Everest, with scratches on the case and fraying on the strap, the prototype will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming New York watch auction, with all proceeds going to the National Geographic Society. Though identical in size to the standard Overseas Dual Time – the case is 41mm in diameter – this prototype has a bulked-up case, primarily with the addition...

DOXA launches in Australia, and our guests drank like sailors at a street party to celebrate Time+Tide
Doxa launches Nov 21, 2019

DOXA launches in Australia, and our guests drank like sailors at a street party to celebrate

On Monday night, Melbourne opened its arms – and uncorked many, many bottles of Four Pillars Gin, the best gin in the world – in celebration of the fact that, finally, dive watch kings Doxa have a home in this country. Fittingly for a brand that is dive watch royalty, the crowd of 120+ drank … ContinuedThe post DOXA launches in Australia, and our guests drank like sailors at a street party to celebrate appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 3 mistakes I made buying a vintage watch, my cautionary tale Time+Tide
Nov 9, 2019

The 3 mistakes I made buying a vintage watch, my cautionary tale

How did I accidentally become a vintage watch guy? Partly, I blame the fact that I’ve got the spindly wrists of a teenage girl. That meant I naturally gravitated towards smaller dials. But I also put it down to the tawdry state of my finances. When I first started to get into watches - before the retro … ContinuedThe post The 3 mistakes I made buying a vintage watch, my cautionary tale appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Unicorns Part III – Ref. 6062 Triple Calendar “Stelline Gordon Bethune” SJX Watches
Rolex Unicorns Part III – Oct 21, 2019

Rolex Unicorns Part III – Ref. 6062 Triple Calendar “Stelline Gordon Bethune”

The third important vintage Rolex – in my opinion – at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction, after the ref. 4113 split-seconds chronograph and mint ref. 8171 “Padellone”, is the ref. 6062 “Stelline” triple calendar that once belonged to Gordon Bethune, the executive best known for turning around Continental Airlines during his decade-long tenure starting in 1994. The watch a sterling example of the ref. 6062 – and will sell for well over a million dollars – but it is also notable for what it says about the development of the vintage watch market. Now 78 and retired, though he pops up regularly on CNBC to comment on the airline industry, Mr Bethune accumulated his watch collection over two decades. He sold the bulk of it in 2012, but remains probably the only famous business executive known to have collected watches in a serious fashion (another is perhaps former Hollywood talent agent Michael Ovitz, though he more widely regarded as an important collector of contemporary art). Mr Bethune’s collection was inclined towards great, even some of the best, examples of important, uncommon and desirable watches, rather than extraordinarily or unique models. So he owned one of the best-preserved, all-original examples of the ref. 6062s “Stelline”, rather than say a well-worn ref. 6062 with a black, diamond-marker dial. It was a cold day in December… The Gordon Bethune Collection of Fifty Exceptional Vintage Wristwatches took place in December 2012 at Christi...

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph “80 Years Flight to New York” SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Oct 15, 2019

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph “80 Years Flight to New York”

IWC’s latest limited edition is a surprisingly small run – 80 pieces to mark the 80th anniversary of the flight of the giant Latécoère 521 flying boat Lieutenant de Vaisseau Paris from New York to Lac de Biscarrosse in Southwestern France. Starting on Bastille Day, July 14, in 1939, the flight was the first nonstop crossing of the North Atlantic by flying boat. A passenger on the 28-hour, 27-minute journey was French aviator Antoine de Saint Exupéry. And it happens that one of IWC’s most popular sub-collections of pilot’s watches watches is Le Petit Prince, named after the famous novel by de Saint Exupéry. So the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph Edition “80 Years Flight to New York” is an offshoot of the Le Petit Prince collection, with a few tweaks. It retains the vaguely retro flavour, with Gothic-esque numerals and lozenge hands, but instead of the standard blue dial of Le Petit Prince, the anniversary watch has a brown metallic dial, matched with brown ceramic bezel. The edition is based on the Timezoner Chronograph, usually available only in the standard black and white livery of IWC’s basic Pilot’s Watches. It’s an unusual watch that combines both a flyback chronograph and IWC’s proprietary “timezoner” mechanism. Originally developed by the defunct watch brand Vogard, the timezoner mechanism has a rotating world time bezel linked to the second time zone, so turning the bezel moves the 24-hour hand in one-hour ste...

Interview: 800 Years of Japanese Swords and the G-Shock SJX Watches
Casio announced Sep 30, 2019

Interview: 800 Years of Japanese Swords and the G-Shock

Acclaimed in ancient literature and collectible today, swords made by the Gassan school trace their lineage back centuries, as is only possible in Japan. The school originated some 800 years ago, dating back to the early Kamakura period, approximately the 13th century. It started at the base of Mount Gassan, the highest of a trio of sacred mountains in what is now Yamagata prefecture. Though the school became dormant sometime in the 16th century, it was revived sometime in the mid 1800s by a descendant of the Gassan family in Osaka. The revival was successful and the Gassan school made swords for several Japanese emperors in the 19th and 20th century. Six generations on, the Gassans continue their craft with Sadanobu Gassan, and his father, Sadatoshi, now based in the city of Sakurai in Nara prefecture, about six hours southwest of Tokyo. At Baselworld 2019, Casio announced its collaboration with Sadanobu Gassan to create the G-Shock MR-G “Gassan” MRG-G2000GA, which has key parts of the case and bracelet finished by Mr Gassan himself in his workshop. In essence, it links the Gassan family’s eight hundred centuries of tradition with the latest in Japanese timekeeping technology. We got in touch with Mr Gassan to discuss his work for G-Shock, and also the state of his ancient craft. The interview has been edited and condensed. The G-Shock MR-G “Gassan” MRG-G2000GA What made you want to continue in your family’s footsteps? At a young age, I witnessed my...