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The T+T Team’s watch predictions and hot takes for 2023 Time+Tide
Feb 4, 2023

The T+T Team’s watch predictions and hot takes for 2023

Editor’s note: After spending a bit of time reflecting on the best moments, releases and trends of 2022, the Time+Tide team is now turning their attention to the year ahead. So we’ve assembled to present our predictions, hot takes and Hail Marys for 2023. Fergus Nash: Yellow gold should make a big comeback We’re living … ContinuedThe post The T+T Team’s watch predictions and hot takes for 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The DIY Series: How to modify your watch (Part 2) Time+Tide
Feb 4, 2023

The DIY Series: How to modify your watch (Part 2)

In Part 1 of this DIY Series, we went over the steps for assembling your own watch from scratch. Even if that’s not the avenue for you, maybe there’s a watch in your collection that’s never been quite as perfect as you’d hoped. If you’ve ever bought and sold similar black-dialled dive watches over and … ContinuedThe post The DIY Series: How to modify your watch (Part 2) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Five reasons to buy the new issue of NOW, the Time+Tide watch-buying guide Time+Tide
Feb 4, 2023

Five reasons to buy the new issue of NOW, the Time+Tide watch-buying guide

What time is it? Time to get a watch. That’s the reason we assemble Time+Tide’s NOW magazine, a watch-buying guide that curates the top watch releases of the last six months (207 of them to be precise).  In addition, you’ll also get a killer assortment of features that delve into what makes some of the most … ContinuedThe post Five reasons to buy the new issue of NOW, the Time+Tide watch-buying guide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 11 Best Watch Books Every Collector Should Read Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 3, 2023

The 11 Best Watch Books Every Collector Should Read

As we all muddle through the dead of Winter (at least here in the eastern U.S.) and await the coming of Spring and more frequent outdoor activities, many of us are finding ourselves keeping warm inside, with more time to curl up with a good book and read. As any watch enthusiast knows, a good, compelling watch book - whether devoted to a particular brand and its history, a niche category, or a broad narrative about timepieces and culture - can be a very worthwhile way to while away some quiet hours and delve deeper into their passion at the same time. Here we spotlight 10 of the best watch books out there today, several of which you can acquire right here on TeddyBaldassarre.com.  A MAN AND HIS WATCH: ICONIC WATCHES & STORIES FROM THE MEN WHO WORE THEM By Matt Hranek Perhaps no book in recent memory has explored the deep and unbreakable bond between watch owners and their most beloved timepieces quite as compellingly as A Man and his Watch, which offers not only the expected high-end photos, provided by Vogue and Dujour contributor Stephen Lewis, but also a host of personal memoirs by a collection of luminaries never before assembled between two covers. Hranek, author of A Man & His Car as well as two cocktail tomes and the founder of Wm. Brown, a men’s luxury lifestyle magazine, weaves together a plethora of sentimental stories about prized personal watches in a series of interviews with celebrities and influential figures from the world of horology. The tales r...

Hands-On with the Parmigiani Tonda PF 36 Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier continues Feb 3, 2023

Hands-On with the Parmigiani Tonda PF 36

Parmigiani Fleurier continues to iterate on their distinctive Tonda platform, dialing it in a bit further with each step, and the latest example of the Tonda PF 36mm is a near perfect distillation of the concept. We first saw the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor last year, and found a lot to love in the small details. We also found the dial to be expansive on the wrist, almost in its own way when it came to wearability thanks to the wide integrated bracelet. The Tonda PF in 36mm guise addresses nearly every issue we had with the Micro-Rotor, but welcomes a different movement in the process. The Tonda has come a long way, and this is the watch that has us most excited about its future.  The modern Tonda PF is often mentioned in the same breath as contemporaries like the Vacheron 222, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo, the Chopard Alpine Eagle, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato… you get the idea, but I’d submit that this watch sits in a slightly different realm to those (also excellent) watches. The Tonda PF has a grace that’s lacking in most high-end integrated steel sport watches. In fact, I wouldn’t call the Tonda a PF a sports watch at all. This is leisure wear at its finest, and will look better than most dressed up to the nines. There is no pretense of adventure lifestyle behind the scenes with this one. The Tonda PF in 36mm confronts this fact head on, and kind of dares you to place it into any specific genre. This specific example features a “steel sand” colored dial that does...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie Smoked Sapphire Dial SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 3, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie Smoked Sapphire Dial

Besides the Universelle grand complication, Audemars Piguet has another ace up its sleeve when it comes to its line of round watches. Originally launched a blue enamel dial, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie gains sharper aesthetics with a smoked sapphire dial and a pink gold case. Initial thoughts A big part of the appeal of a repeater is the mystifying mass of racks and levers that drive the chiming mechanism and are most often hidden under the dial. Unveiling their secret is sometimes best done with the direct approach of not having a solid dial. A clear sapphire dials is arguably perfect it for a repeater, because the complication is usually constructed on the movement’s dial side. Unlike other frontal complications such as perpetual calendars, chiming complications are highly interactive – the racks are set in motion during the chiming sequence in a mechanical dance, all while the chimes sound, a performance that elevates the appeal of the complication. And for the Code 11.59 specifically, the tinted sapphire dial works especially well. Matched with high-contrast pink gold, it is an ideal complement for the case design as it blends an otherwise classical complication with contemporary livery that matches the modern styling of the case. As a result, the new repeater is one of the most appealing watches in the Code 11.59 range, with an intrinsic appeal that few of its brethren possesess. Contemporary package While retaining the same...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 3, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT

Amongst the wave of new Royal Oaks just unveiled by Audemars Piguet (AP) is a new “Concept”, the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT. Historically a platform to showcase novel materials and aggressive design, the new Royal Oak Concept (ROC) continues down that route – but more notably contains an all-new and cleverly-constructed rattrapante chronograph movement with automatic winding. Initial thoughts Much like previous models in the ROC line, the new split-seconds chronograph is a bold statement with a chunky, aggressive case, albeit one refined to become more wearable, especially in light of its size – it is the most wearing Concept to date. Paradoxically, the movement within the large-format case was clearly designed with thinness in mind. For a split-seconds chronograph with a big date, second time zone, and automatic winding, the movement measures a modest 8.92 mm high, svelte by the standards of the complications mix. And in contrast to the design (which brings to mind the Richard Mille RM 11), the movement is unusually refined and clever. An example of is the rotor that’s supported by a large central hub, which provides enough space in the middle to house the entire split-seconds mechanism. This serves to both reduce thickness, while simultaneously offering a view of the rattrapante mechanism without being obstructed by the rotor. Deceptively oversized As with most of its counterparts in the collection, the new ROC has a geometrically-shape...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Universelle SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 3, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Universelle

Undoubtedly the flagship of its recent new launches, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle is the brand’s most complicated wristwatch in recent years – or perhaps ever. A project that began in 2016, the uber-complication rooted in history: it is a tribute to L’Universelle, the grand complication pocket watch from 1899 made by AP for German watchmaker Union. But the watch simultaneously pushes the brand’s modern-day watchmaking to the limit, particularly in terms of miniaturising highly complex mechanisms. The Universelle is available in two guises, the open dial above and the solid dial pictured further up Officially one of the brand’s Research and Development timepieces – the model is also known as the RD#4 – the Universelle is an exercise in combining into a single wristwatch all the traditional mechanisms that constitute a grand complication, and then some – perpetual calendar, rattrapante chronograph with flyback, tourbillon, and grande et petite sonnerie with minute repeater. L’Universelle on display in the Audemars Piguet Museum Initial thoughts An assuming name that means little to anyone who doesn’t understand the historical inspiration, Universelle is a horological behemoth that captures AP’s industrial and mechanical capability. Though it has a highly modern design, the Universelle harks back to a bygone era of high watchmaking that prized highly complicated watches incorporating as many features as feasible into a (barely) wearable...

When Junghans Gives You Lemons, You Get Two Limited Editions Celebrating the FIS Nordic World Ski Championships Worn & Wound
Junghans Gives You Lemons You Feb 3, 2023

When Junghans Gives You Lemons, You Get Two Limited Editions Celebrating the FIS Nordic World Ski Championships

Around this time of year, most of us here living in the North East of the U.S. are looking forward to the weather making a turn. But for the good folks living near the alpine valley of Planica, Slovenia, and ski enthusiasts across the globe, the opposite is true. The more snow, the better. That’s because in the next couple of weeks, the quiet valley of Planica will come to life as they’ll host the 54th edition of the FIS Nordic World Ski Championships. Fans and supporters alike will bear witness to high-level winter athletes from all over the world as they’ll compete in competitions such as ski jumping, cross country skiing, and nordic combined. Time is an important factor across the board here. A second too slow could be the difference between second place or championship glory. Or even the slightest bit of bad timing could put a skier in a really bad spot, especially if they’re cutting in and out downhill at 80 mph, or landing a jump as high as 90 feet. Either way you look at it, it would behoove you to have an accurate watch, whether you’re a competitor, or just a spectator keeping score at home. The Official Timekeeper of the FIS Nordic World Ski Championships isn’t a brand that you, or I would expect – and that brand is Junghans. When I hear the name Junghans, my thoughts immediately go to thoughtfully designed dress-casual watches, like the Max Bill or the Meister. But the Schramberg, Germany based brand is more than meets the eye. Turns out they’ve b...

TAG Heuer Hits the Track with New Carrera Chronograph x Porsche Orange Racing Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hits Feb 2, 2023

TAG Heuer Hits the Track with New Carrera Chronograph x Porsche Orange Racing

TAG Heuer and Porsche have revealed the latest fruits of their partnership in a new Cerrar Chronograph dubbed the Orange Racing. It’s been two years since the announcement of these two brands coming together once again, which came alongside this Porsche Carrera with road surface textured dial, and the latest member of that family turns up the color for an equal amount of drama. This watch represents the sixth creation of a TAG Heuer x Porsche watch, and while it treads into new territory thanks to its unique colorway, it also carries many of the familiar hallmarks we’ve come to expect from TAG Heuer chronographs.  This Carrera x Porsche Chronograph, much like the examples that came before it, features a full set of applied Arabic numerals around that dial marking each 5 minute segment rather than the hours. This lends itself to the sporty, speedometer-esque feeling of the dial, which in this case, is accentuated by orange outlines defining each area of the dial. The black base of the dial gets a fine vertical brushing that’s noticeable, but doesn’t quite compete with the application of color. The rings of color, which inspire the name of the watch, appear to be something near Porsche’s Lava Orange (paint code M2A), though that specific color isn’t referenced by TAG Heuer. This color lands somewhere between red and orange and obviously works in rather dramatic fashion against the black backdrop of this watch. The dial itself is outlined, as are each of the sub ...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the First All-Ceramic Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 2, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the First All-Ceramic Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph

Amongst the usual Royal Oaks just debuted by Audemars Piguet (AP) is the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm Black Ceramic. It’s the very first Offshore entirely in ceramic – both the case and bracelet are ceramic, as are the pushers and crown. And like all newer Offshore 42 mm models, it’s powered by the in-house cal. 4404. Initial thoughts The new Offshore is a straightforward proposition – monochromatic in black and white, and mostly ceramic. It’s essentially the original Offshore in a fancier execution, both in terms of materials as well as the movement. So you appreciate the relative simplicity of the original Offshore design, this is easy to like. Part of the appeal comes from the material. The all-black ceramic livery suits the no-frills aesthetic of the original Offshore well. At the same time, AP excels at finishing ceramic so the case and bracelet have the same lustrous surfaces as their metal counterparts. As a result, the watch has a tangible, tactile quality that is appealing. That said, ceramic is slightly glossier than metal, so the brushed surfaces don’t have the same matte finish as the metal equivalents. The only downside is the price – CHF70,000 before taxes. That’s almost double the model in steel and only a little less than the version in rose gold. According to AP that’s due to the difficulty of finishing the ceramic bracelet, but the price is still difficult to rationalise. Ceramic end to end While AP does offer Royal Oa...

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Seiko SSK001 is the Best Affordable GMT Out There, But Will it Stand the Test of Time? Worn & Wound
Seiko SSK001 Feb 2, 2023

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Seiko SSK001 is the Best Affordable GMT Out There, But Will it Stand the Test of Time?

In watches, like all things in life, everything comes back full circle. My watch collecting journey has meandered through different types of watches, spanning all shapes and sizes. There was a time where my collection had ballooned to a number that my watch box couldn’t accommodate. More recently, it has shrunk to a number that I can count on one hand. Very manageable, even by watch enthusiast’s standards. But despite the watches of past and present, there will always be that one watch that started it all – the Seiko SKX. I’m not talking about the ubiquitous Seiko SKX 007. No, not at all. The watch that kicked off this wild journey within this hobby, and ultimately led me to typing these actual words for you to read at your leisure, was the Seiko SKX013. The Seiko SKX diver format, in a more compact wearing case, suited my preferences at the time. It’s the watch that opened Pandora’s box to all sorts of things in, and out of horology. From figuring out how to change out straps (from that rattley jubilee) and learning about the history of the dive watch, to actually getting me into the sport of surfing. Through thick and thin, the SKX013 has always taken up a spot in the quiver. My beloved Seiko SKX013 (Left) & my brand new Seiko SSK001 GMT (Right) Side By Side $475 [VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Seiko SSK001 is the Best Affordable GMT Out There, But Will it Stand the Test of Time? Case Stainless Steel Movement Caliber 4R34 Dial Black Lume LumiBrite Lens Hardlex ...

The Independedit: The Christopher Ward Bel Canto could prove the bargain of the year Time+Tide
Christopher Ward Bel Canto could prove Feb 2, 2023

The Independedit: The Christopher Ward Bel Canto could prove the bargain of the year

The Christopher Ward Bel Canto is the brand’s first take on a chiming complication Achieved with the help of a base Sellita SW200 and an in-house chiming module At its staggering price point, this may already be the bargain of the year The first modern microbrand shook enthusiast circles recently with their take on a … ContinuedThe post The Independedit: The Christopher Ward Bel Canto could prove the bargain of the year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How About a Big Bronze Skull for the Wrist? Bell & Ross Has You Covered Worn & Wound
Richard Mille there are skull watches Feb 1, 2023

How About a Big Bronze Skull for the Wrist? Bell & Ross Has You Covered

Ah yes, the skull watch. While not exactly what I’d call a “staple,” watches featuring skulls have been ever present in modern watch collecting for years. Most notably, we can look to independent watchmaker Fiona Kruger as something of a skull watch specialist, but other brands are in on the skull action as well. From Invicta (of course, Invicta) to Richard Mille, there are skull watches out there for every taste and budget. Indeed, one of my favorite watches from last year features a skull in a nontraditional way. But we can’t talk about skull watches without talking about Bell & Ross, who have released a variety of these watches in their relatively short history. Their latest release, the BR 01 Cyber Skull Bronze, is one of the strangest yet.  First, let’s answer the question many are likely asking themselves right now: why? While different brands might have varying rationales for creating skull watches, we can at least identify that the skull itself as a symbol is recognized somewhat universally as dealing with the idea of mortality. A memento mori, a reminder that every living thing dies, is a theme that exists in art going back centuries. This is a natural thematic playing field for a watch, dealing as it does with the passing of time. Also, they just kind of look cool. I’m reminded of a heavily tattooed friend being asked about the symbolism behind the artwork on his body (including, you guessed it, skulls) and his curt response, indicating that he just ...

A black dial finally makes its way into the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 collection Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Feb 1, 2023

A black dial finally makes its way into the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 collection

Black quietly makes its debut within the standard IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 collection. This latest iteration of the 2021 model measures in at 41mm in diameter and 51.8mm lug-to-lug. The watch features IWC’s 69835 calibre and the brand’s patented EasX-CHANGE system. The Pilot’s Watch is arguably the brand’s most recognisable line, and among the more … ContinuedThe post A black dial finally makes its way into the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Ultra-Chron: The World's First High-Frequency Dive Watch Retu Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Feb 1, 2023

Longines Ultra-Chron: The World's First High-Frequency Dive Watch Retu

The Longines Ultra-Chron takes its most direct inspiration from a dive watch the brand introduced in 1968, but it also represents the culmination of Longines’ expertise in making high-frequency watch movements, which goes back more than 100 years. Longines’ century-plus quest for high-frequency timekeeping precision started in 1914, when it produced the first hand-held stopwatches (like the one below) with movements that measured time to 1/10 second thanks to their high-frequency movement, Caliber 19.73N, whose balance wheel oscillated at 36,600 vph. It continued with a modification of that caliber to achieve an astonishing rate of 360,000 vph, and a stopwatch accuracy of 1/100 second, in 1916; hit a new milestone with the launch of the Observatory Chronometer in 1959, the first wristwatch with a 36,600-vph movement; and culminated with the introduction of the Ultra-Chron Diver (below) in 1968, which became the world’s first high-frequency divers’ watch, housing the 36,600-vph Caliber 431. (Yes, this predates by one year the most famous high-frequency movement, the Zenith El Primero, though that movement also incorporated automatic winding and a chronograph.) The Ultra-Chron Diver provides the template for the all-new Ultra-Chron model, whose cushion-shaped stainless steel case spans a contemporary 43mm in diameter and 13.6mm thick as well as a 300-meter water resistance - an improvement on the vintage model’s 200-meter rating. Like its predecessor, and in th...

Demystifying the mystery dial Time+Tide
Breguet s Mudges Feb 1, 2023

Demystifying the mystery dial

Many times, a horological invention is credited to a household watchmaking name. I bet that most of you won’t have heard of Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, however. Among Breguets, Mudges and Danielses, his invention was less technically impressive, yet no less astonishing, which may partly explain his amazingly successful career as a magician. Following in the footsteps … ContinuedThe post Demystifying the mystery dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Owner’s Perspective: With The Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary “SD43” WatchAdvice
Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary “SD43” Feb 1, 2023

The Owner’s Perspective: With The Rolex Sea-Dweller 50th Anniversary “SD43”

Why I Bought It It was different to a SubmarinerI like slightly larger watchesAll the Rolex heritage with a modern look The Ownership Reality It would help if you had a medium-sized wrist to pull it offNot great with a suit and cuffWe need to part with over $4000 more to own vs a Sub with a date! Overall rating: 8.25 /10 Value for money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 I was never a Rolex lover. There I said it. I thought Rolex was a brand for people that wanted to show off and tell people they had money and didn’t really know about watches. For some people, this is still probably the case, but this all changed for me many years ago once I started delving a lot more into the watch world, brands and their history, as well as their manufacturing techniques. And when I started researching Rolex a little, I started to understand just what made them tick, so to speak (yes, bad pun intended!) Now, I have a lot of respect for The Crown, what they stand for, and the processes and materials they use. The fact that they are one of the very few brands that develop and make their watches fully in-house, end to end, including metallurgists who develop the specific properties and proprietary blends of metals that go into them, including a foundry, I was a convert. These days I see Rolex for what Hans Wilsdorf originally intended – a tool watch that is able to handle whatever you throw at them and is designed for specific industries and occupations. Whilst mos...