Deployant
New: H. Moser Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel
Moser adds a new Small Seconds watch with a beautiful fumé blue enamel dial to their Streamliner Small Seconds collection.
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Deployant
Moser adds a new Small Seconds watch with a beautiful fumé blue enamel dial to their Streamliner Small Seconds collection.
Hodinkee
The most prominent character-watch...character makes his way onto three new dials as part of an official collaboration with Disney.
SJX Watches
Seiko has remade its high-end dive watch with a new, slimmer movement and consequently more compact watch. Still known as the Prospex Marinemaster, the new model is available in three variants (SJE097, SJE099, and SJE101), all sharing a design heavily influenced by the brand’s first-ever dive watch, the “62MAS” from 1965. Initial thoughts Marinemaster models long been solid but chunky watches, with examples including the Hi-Beat 36,000 limited edition or the forest green model from 2021. A more compact iteration enhances its appeal, especially with the recent popularity of smaller, vintage-inspired dive watches. The “62MAS” model from 1965. Image – Seiko The design still echoes the original 62MAS, particularly in the dial and bezel layout. However, the new model, especially the light blue variant, gains a more contemporary feel with the horizontally striped dial along and the engraved markings on the bezel. The patterned dial easily brings to mind other sports watches, so it does seem a bit derivative, but Seiko’s position as a maker of dive watches is strong enough that this still looks and feels like a Seiko. The latest Marinemaster is priced at US$2,800, reflecting Seiko’s gradual upmarket move over recent years. This places it squarely within the mid-tier dive watch segment also occupied by brands such as such as Doxa or Longines. While it remains a compelling option at this price, it is no longer such a clear value proposition relative to the competit...
Time+Tide
Andrew goes behind the scenes, exploring two incredible watches from one of the fastest-developing luxury watch brands.The post Andrew explores two pieces of Louis Vuitton’s horological art appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Highly regarded by his peers, Stephen McDonnell is a horological engineer best known for his work with MB&F;, where he devised the LM Perpetual EVO and LM Sequential EVO double chronograph. Mr McDonnell’s twin inventions for MB&F; reflect the ingenuity of his approach. Mr McDonnell delivered one of the most fascinating and enlightening lectures of Dubai Watch Week 2023, where he explained his process, methods, and philosophy in a heartfelt and sincere talk. It’s recommended watching for anyone interested in mechanical creativity and the people behind it.
Quill & Pad
I estimate I’ve seen - and have personally moderated 10 Dubai Watch Week Horological Forums talks - around 80 of these ‘events’, and many have been very, very, good: either. But at the 2023 fair I saw one that just blew me away (and I’m a jaded old industry veteran). Don't miss this!
Worn & Wound
Of all the archetypal sport watches that have so gripped our ever-growing community, the pilot’s watch might be the most enigmatic. It’s not as singularly focused or popular in the mainstream as the dive watch, and it doesn’t revel in the romance of travel or flaunt a colorful bezel like a GMT does. Its function is ostensibly straightforward enough – tell the time legibly in the air – yet the how and with what is so undefined that no singular complication or model is the obvious poster child from which all other designs are merely descendents. With a pilot’s watch, you can truly understand how brands flex their creativity and interpret what they see as an aviator’s invaluable tool. The three watches in the spotlight today may all fall under the same broad category, but each takes such a different approach that it wouldn’t be farfetched to have all three in a collection. It might even be a good idea. Of all the archetypal sport watches that have so gripped our ever-growing community, the pilot’s watch might be the most enigmatic. It’s not as singularly focused or popular in the mainstream as the dive watch, and it doesn’t revel in the romance of travel or flaunt a colorful bezel like a GMT does. Its function is ostensibly straightforward enough – tell the time legibly in the air – yet the how and with what is so undefined that no singular complication or model is the obvious poster child from which all other designs are merely descendents. With a p...
Time+Tide
With curvaceous cases and electrostatic movements, the Bulova sub-brand deliver a luxury proposition.The post Does Accutron have an ace up their sleeve with the new DNA Casino? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
After exploring the independents in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, our attention now turns to watches that focus on unusual aesthetics, namely timepieces defined by complex decoration or unusually shaped cases. Amongst the artisanal selection, here is one of Muriel Sechaud’s avian creations for Vacheron Constantin, alongside other enamelled works from the workshop of Anita Porchet. Muriel Sechaud’s rendition of Audubon’s birds And amongst the form watches is the Patek Philippe ref. 5013R-013, a tonneau-shaped grand complication in pink gold with a black dial, of which only three are known. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII takes place on November 24 and 25, 2023. Registration for bidding and the complete catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 859: Vacheron Constantin “Birds of America” ref. 43060 by Muriel Sechaud Renowned enamelist Muriel Sechaud collaborated with Vacheron Constantin to create a collection inspired by the illustrations of Jean-Jacques Audubon, a French-American artist, naturalist, and ornithologist. Audubon’s work, ‘Birds of America,’ served as the primary inspiration for this collaboration. The Swiss watchmaker, known for its commitment to craftsmanship and artistic expression, commissioned a series of cloisonné enamel dials to reproduce Audubon’s intricate bird illustrations faithfully. This artistic union reflects the fusion of horological expertise with the beauty found in natural history illustration. The current reference...
Quill & Pad
It wasn't until Ian Skellern had the opportunity to handle the four-faced Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 for himself that he understood the sheer scale of JLC’s achievement and gazed in newfound awe. Even though he had read the dimensions of Calibre 185, they were just numbers: in reality, it was much smaller and more wearable than he was expecting. Calibre 185 is by no means a small watch, but, as he reports, it is small for the sheer amount of complications packed inside.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage 1970s Zodiac Automatic Day-Date w/ Mesh Zodiac Band Zodiac is most well known to vintage watch collectors for their incredible Sea Wolf divers, but they also made a plethora of other models, including this early 1970’s sporty dress watch which has loads of vintage style. The silver dial has applied block steel markers, stick hands and a day date window at 3 o’clock that is opposite of the Zodiac script which gives the dial a nice balance. The steel case is unpolished with sharp edges and original finish, and the watch has the original signed crown to boot. A nice touch is that this gem comes on the original Zodiac signed mesh bracelet made by JB Champion. Really nice looking and subtly blingy piece. View auction here Seiko 5 Vintage 5126-8110 Next up is a great looking vintage Seiko 5 from 1968. This model 5126-8110 has a little bit of everything. The steel case is unpolished with sharp edges and you can tell it is a distant relative of the Grammar of Design school of aesthetics from the King and Grand Seiko lines. The charcoal dial is super clean, with lume filled, applied steel markers and the usual day/date window at 3 o’clock. To me, the best part of this one i...
Worn & Wound
H. Moser made waves with their Streamliner watch when it was first released in 2020 thanks to the unconventional case and integrated bracelet design. In a market flooded with integrated bracelet sport watches, the Streamliner somehow manages to stand apart with its scale-like bracelet. It’s a watch we’ve taken a closer look at here, and here. This year, the Streamliner takes a new form in a move toward a more wearable experience in the form of the Small Seconds Blue Enamel. The result is a 39mm watch with a revised case and bracelet design that remains true to the original DNA while being far more wrist-friendly in the process. The Streamliner has always been defined by its bracelet, with the cushion case transitioning to a dial with largely minimal takes on complications from perpetual calendars to chronographs. The newest addition adjusts the proportions of everything just enough to make a tangible difference on the wrist, without compromising the impact of the shapes and forms at work. In fact, the bracelet is in peak form with this release, combining the dramatic architecture with a silky taper that works incredibly well in practice. What’s more, the tweaks reduce some of the tension between the shoulder of the case and bracelet integration, making for an overall more graceful appearance. That said, if you were never a fan of the Streamliner, this new example isn’t likely to change that. This is still a Streamliner through and through, and fans of the watch l...
SJX Watches
At this year’s Dubai Watch Week, Ressence and its Middle East retail partner, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, have unveiled their third and final edition – the Type 1 DX3. This unique timepiece puts a distinctive twist on the minimalist Type 1, featuring a dial inspired by Arabic geometric patterns, echoing the aesthetic of the pair’s past collaborations. Initial thoughts This limited edition for the Dubai retailer resonates with me – and is arguably one of the most outstanding recent watches from Ressence – illustrating the potential to blend modern aesthetics while grounding the watch in the region. It manages to stand apart from Ressence’s minimalist watches, which have been iterated in a multitude of variants to date. The DX3 sticks to the outline of the standard Type 1 Round, but its standout feature lies in the copper-tone dial that’s embellished with captivating rose motifs reminiscent of Islamic art and architecture, and further accented with Super-Luminova that glows green. The Type 1 DX3 retails for CHF23,600, will be limited to merely 35 pieces and accompanied by a copy of Arts & Crafts in Motion, the brand’s first book that’s published jointly with Seddiqi. Considering the dial decoration, this undeniably presents a more alluring proposition in contrast to the standard production models. However one can hope that Ressence will maintain the exclusivity of this design and refrain from replicating it later on. A cloisonné dial with Arabic patterns The DX3...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
After years of tiptoeing around it and covering releases from Oris, I have to say that the recently announced Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser may be the watch that conquers me. Back when Oris announced the original Pro Pilot X, I found the design compelling but at the same time, a little too industrial-looking for me. I say that even as someone who is affectionately drawn to aviation themes, which Oris does very well. But now, Oris just had to add frickin’ lasers to the equation, pulling me closer to the ProPilot X.
Time+Tide
Night Surfer II, Dubai Watch Week, an event with Baume & Mercier... It's been a big week for T+T.The post Our first big event in the Time+Tide Discovery Studio, celebrating the Baume & Mercier Riviera, went off without a hitch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
While it’s true that it’s certainly Dubai Watch Week as I sit here and write, an argument could be made that we’re in the midst of an unofficial Seiko Week as well. Recent new product announcements run the gamut from the affordable and fun to the ultra niche collector focused limited edition. Today’s announcement might be the one that ultimately gets enthusiasts most excited, however. After some teasing through social media earlier in the week, Seiko has unveiled the new generation Seiko Prospex Marinemaster, officially dubbed the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation. This is technically a product line that has been available for a while in the Japanese domestic market, but Seiko is pointing out with this launch that the Prospex Marinemaster is now global, and represents the top tier of Seiko dive watches worldwide. The broad strokes here will of course be familiar to anyone who has strapped a Seiko diver to their wrist over the years. The format here is based on the original Seiko dive watch, the 62MAS from 1965, a watch that Seiko has returned to over and over again for inspiration through the years. Particularly in recent years, a crop of divers in the “SPB14X” range (which we’ve covered extensively) have become mainstays in enthusiast watch culture by presenting themselves as affordable dive watches in the spirit of the 62MAS without being direct recreations (but if it’s a recreation you want, Seiko has you covered). The ...
Worn & Wound
Oris expands their ProPilot X collection this week at the Dubai Watch Week event, with the introduction of the ProPilot X Laser. The watch continues with the theme of the ProPilot X, bringing the same trim titanium case and bracelet to the party, but this time mated to a very different dial experience than we’ve seen before in this collection. There are big changes and some smaller ones that we appreciate seeing here, as this represents the biggest departure from the standard trio introduced last year. Oris has never been afraid to wade into experimental waters with their dials, and this ProPilot X continues that trend in a new way. The latest ProPilot X is called Laser thanks to the technique used to create its dial, a method which Oris claims has not been applied in watchmaking before. Oris enlisted the help of a research lab affiliated to the prestigious ETH Zürich university to bring the concept to life. The result is something bordering ethereal in person, with a constantly changing palette of colors rendered in the unique texture. The iridescent effect is quite powerful and Oris has demonstrated a deft hand in making sure it’s the focal point of this watch. We’ve been spoiled by some truly amazing dial creations in recent years from the likes of Grand Seiko, Czapek, Arcanaut, and yes, even Oris. My first thought upon seeing a truly compelling dial is to how it fits in with the rest of the watch. For instance, the Arcanaut Arc II Fordite boasts a unique color...
Quill & Pad
Urwerk has just released the UR-230 Eagle. It features a CTP carbon case fitted with a hinged cover, aerodynamic lines, a slimmer profile and the stylized form of a bird of prey, dual variable-geometry turbine, double shock absorber and a hybrid winding system.
Worn & Wound
We joke around here quite a bit about every year being an anniversary for something. Watch brands have never been shy about celebrating what most of the outside world would consider somewhat inconsequential milestones. Of course, hobbies like ours are built on obsessing over the inconsequential, so it makes a lot of sense at the end of the day. Sometimes, though, there’s a truly significant anniversary that everyone can get behind, and you better believe watch brands aren’t going to ignore those. To that point, next year marks the 100th anniversary of the Seiko brand, a pretty big deal if there ever was one. We’re just weeks away from the calendar changing over, and Seiko has taken the opportunity to get the celebration started a little early. Seiko, to be clear, has a complicated history that starts before the name “Seiko” was ever used on a watch, so what we’re celebrating here is the 100 year anniversary of the first time that branding was used on a wristwatch. We’re quite certain that Seiko will have an entire lineup of limited and special editions to celebrate the milestone, but the first out of the gate is the entry seen here from the Presage collection, a tribute to that very first wristwatch from 1924. Seiko is no stranger to dealing with their past, and they’ve taken many approaches over the years in interpreting historic references. The new Seiko Presage Kintaro Hattori Limited Edition (reference SPB441) is effectively a recreation of the orig...
Hodinkee
A fairly diplomatic size, a high complication and a whole lot of gem-setting. Perhaps it's time to revisit what makes a unisex watch?
Hodinkee
Drawing on Büsser's love of 1960s design, the new watch has more rooms than a New York City apartment and is one of the most fascinating MB&F; designs yet.
SJX Watches
Unveiled barely a week after the reasonably traditional Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P, the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater ref. 5260 is unexpected, over the top, and entirely logical. It’s available in two variants, the simpler ref. 5260/355R-001 on a strap and the no-expense-spared ref. 5260/1455R-001 that’s set with gemstones on practically every surface, even the hour and minute hands. Now the most expensive ladies’ watch in the Patek Philippe catalogue – the ref. 5260/1455R-001 on bracelet costs CHF2.5 million with taxes – the ref. 5260 is a first in several ways. It’s the first Patek Philippe sports model with a minute repeater, and also the first ladies’ sports model with a “grand” complication. In fact, the ref. 5260 is the most complicated sports model of any kind, with the next-most-complicated being the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar ref. 5740. The ref. 5260/1455R-001 Initial thoughts I can certainly comprehend the appeal of the ref. 5260, even though it’s evidently not a watch catered to me. As far as crazily over-the-top ladies watches with impressive sertissage and impeccable horological credentials go, it doesn’t get any better than this. Mechanically the ref. 5260 is identical to Patek Philippe’s revered minute repeating models since it is powered by the R 27, the longstanding self-winding movement found in the current ref. 5178 and all the way back to the ref. 3979. In acoustic and watchmaking terms, the Aquanaut repeater...
Hodinkee
With its longstanding history of impeccable quality and in-house craftsmanship, the uniquely German watchmaker has made its name celebrating originality in all its forms – along with the watch wearers who embody it.
Worn & Wound
There was a time not too long ago when news of a new watch from Kurono Tokyo could nearly break the internet. OK, that’s an exaggeration, but as the brand was building up a head of steam, it felt like loads of hype accompanied every new announcement. This was the peak of pandemic era watch speculation, and Kurono was in the middle of it. Over time, the frenzy has cooled and Kurono announcements are no longer the object of such intense scrutiny. I get the sense that Hajime Asaoka and his team are just fine with that – this is a brand that has instituted layers of “anti flipping” safeguards to their ordering process, after all. But a curious thing is happening: as the hysteria for Kurono’s limited editions has waned, the watches themselves seem to be getting better. Not just in terms of their aesthetics (that’s a matter of opinion, of course) but in the way they’re made and their ergonomics. It would be incredibly easy for Kurono to just keep cranking out new colorways, but every new release is indicative of subtle refinements to the brand’s approach, applying new techniques with every watch. Their latest, the Chronograph 3 “Hisui”, is a great example of the way the brand has made little changes and continues to experiment while still hewing close to what has become a distinct house style. Kurono’s chronographs have evolved into colorful “sector” designs over the years, and this example has what I think is a very appealing mint green colorway that...
Hodinkee
Is it a pilot's watch? Is it cool? We dig into the details.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Is the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival as close to vintage as you can get in a modern watch? Let's see if it's worth the price.
SJX Watches
Having introduced the ZM 1 and ZM 2 wristwatches in 2018, Leica now launches its first sports watch with ZM 11. Deviating entirely from the camera-inspired aesthetics of the earlier models, the ZM 11 is a straightforward three-hander in a minimalist style with an integrated bracelet (or strap). But like its predecessors, the ZM 11 is equipped with a movement made by a specialist, in this case Chronode. Initial thoughts On its face, the ZM 11 comes across as uninspiring at first, appearing similar to many current luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets. But on closer inspection it reveals interesting details, including a nicely finished case and bracelet with facetted, brushed surfaces. Also notable is the quick-release mechanism for the bracelet that’s activated by a red button, a reference to Leica cameras. The red button aside, however, the design doesn’t capture the essence of a Leica camera as the earlier ZM 1 and ZM 2 did. The earlier pair incorporated camera-inspired details into functional elements, like a patented “push-piece” crown that mimics the push of a shutter-release button. While the ZM 1 and ZM 2 are arguably Leica watches, the ZM 11 feels more like a Leica-branded watch. Priced around US$7,000 for the base model, the ZM 11 is competitively priced as far as integrated-bracelet sports watches go. The IWC Ingenieur, for instance, is about 40% pricier. However, such sports watches are generally priced at a premium relatively to everything else...
Worn & Wound
With the Holidays coming up quickly, at times it can be extremely difficult to find that ideal special something for everyone in your life. Our friends at Fossil have worked to make it a bit easier to find a gift for anyone and everyone-from an absolute icon, like the Disney x Fossil Special Edition Classic Mickey Mouse Watch to a goes-with-anything daily carry solution like the Lennox Messenger. With this list, you’re sure to discover the perfect present for just about anybody. Released the same year as The Walt Disney Company’s 100 Year Anniversary, this special-edition Classic Disney Mickey Mouse Watch is the crown jewel in the new Disney Fossil Collection. It’s the modern take on one of the most iconic products in horology. It’s the gift that every Disney or watch enthusiast will love as it simply oozes the concept simply know as… collectibility. It boasts a Japanese automatic movement, which can be spot through both its display caseback, as well as a small aperture on the dial at the 8 o’clock position. It also comes complete with a 40mm stainless steel case, a black Italian leather strap, a white glossy dial, and Disney’s Mickey Mouse print with those instantly recognizable, white-gloved hour and minute hands. It’s guaranteed to bring a smile to anyone’s face. The Lennox Messenger in Medium Brown is a slick, modern take on a timeless carry solution. It’s perfect for anyone with an on-the-go soul who needs that professional vibe, but wants someth...
The watch industry giant sits down with Yoni Ben-Yehuda in Material Good's 24Ours series.
Worn & Wound
When we think of IWC chronographs, their series of Pilot’s Watch Chronographs are probably what comes immediately to our minds. There is an absolutely dizzying selection of chronographs across the Pilot collection, and the references go back years. Today, IWC unveils what they are referring to as “Performance Chronographs” that are technically (and somewhat weirdly, I have to say) still part of the Pilot lineup, but have a more motorsport forward focus. The new chronos seen here follow watches released in the past as part of their partnership with the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team, but have some aesthetic and design tweaks that make them feel a bit more road ready. While the AMG Petronas Pilot’s Watch Chronograph was basically a new colorway in a titanium case, the Performance Chronographs see additional updates to the dial that distinguish it from other watches in IWC’s Pilot space, which begs the question: why call these “Pilot” watches at all? What we have here are two new references, the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 AMG, and the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS Formula One Team. Both are built on IWC’s popular 41mm Pilot’s Watch Chronograph case, with the former in titanium, and the latter the brand’s proprietary Ceratanium alloy. On the surface, the broad strokes here are familiar, but when you get into the granular details, some new features emerge. Most notably, these dials have a glossy fi...
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