Deployant
Six of the best independent German watchmakers you need to know now
We started this conversation with the Japanese watch brands. We then moved to the French and the English, we now turn to the German independent watchmakers.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Quill & Pad
An Incredible 6 Parmigiani Fleurier Watches Shortlisted in the 2024 GPHG
For a brand to have even two watches shortlisted in the annual Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) is a rare achievement. But in the 2024 GPHG, Parmigiani Fleurier has not two, not three, not four, not five but an incredible six difference watches shortlisted over six different categories: Men’s, Time Only, Ladies, Sports, Chronograph, and Calendar and Astronomy.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Bulgari Serpenti Pallini Trilogy of High-Jewellery Watches
It’s fair to say that Bulgari’s ultra-thin Octo Finissimo watches have stolen the limelight for the past decade. However, Bulgari’s laurels have rested for decades on its fabulous and creative high-jewellery watches, spearheaded by the brand’s mascot, the Serpenti. Decked with fabulous gemstones, flexible Tubogas straps or whirling with tourbillons, Bulgari’s Serpenti has countless guises. […]
Fratello
Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst
We knew there would be plenty to celebrate going into this year. As the 25th anniversary of the final year of the last millennium, there is a lot to reflect on. Indeed, 1999 was a defining meeting point for fashion, art, technology, and culture. The onset of the new millennium inspired a surge of influential […] Visit Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The Unique Jungle-Inspired Corum Golden Bridge Serpent
Based on the principle of celebrating the aesthetic value of a mechanical movement, Corum’s iconic Golden Bridge collection finds its origin in a mechanical watch created and patented by Vincent Calabrese in 1977. Corum quickly acquired the patent and collaborated with Vincent Calabrese to put the watch into production. At the height of the quartz […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition
While Girard-Perregaux is currently associated with the sporty Laureato collection, the brand’s first brush with international fame was thanks to a historic watch known as La Esmeralda. Distinguished by its three gold bridges and tourbillon, Constant Girard’s La Esmeralda pocket watch won a gold medal at the 1889 Paris Universal Exhibition. Since then, the three […]
Deployant
New: Armin Strom unveils the Dual Time GMT Resonance in 39mm
Swiss independent watch brand Armin Strom celebrates the 15th anniversary of its fully-integrated Manufacture by reimagining its most historically significant innovation, the resonance complication, in an entirely new Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition. The new timepiece is presented in a hotly-anticipated 39-mm case size made in 18-karat white gold and limited to 25 pieces.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Editions Shadow and Light
Elegantly original with a slightly poetical twist and yet serious watchmaking credentials, Trilobe is a young French brand founded by Gautier Massonneau and specialized in watches that tell the time differently. Next to the inaugural Les Matinaux and the eccentric, complex Une Folle Journée, the Nuit Fantastique represents the timeless and elegant option of the […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Oris x LFP Divers Sixty-Five Limited Edition
Oris introduces a limited edition of its Divers Sixty-Five created in collaboration with France’s Ligue de Football Professionnel (LFP) and the National Convention of Child Protection Associations charity (CNAPE). The model chosen to promote the annual children’s football tournament is a classic 38mm Divers Sixty-Five powered by an automatic movement – not to be confused […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Stunning Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold
I was surprised and intrigued when word got out last year that Daniel Roth would make a comeback. As a fan of Roth’s watches, I was eager to find out whether the LVMH designers would honor his famous double-ellipse case design in style. When the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription came out in March of 2023, […] Visit Introducing: The Stunning Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - Fresh Dial Colours for the HYT T1 Series
HYT erupted on the indie watchmaking scene in 2012 with its original proposal of displaying time with fluids. Although there have been clepsydras since antiquity, HYT’s neon fluids pumped around the dial were unique. Despite the bumps encountered on HYT’s journey, the brand listened closely to consumers and traced a new roadmap with the more […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic & Chronograph Now in Titanium
Maurice Lacroix entered the heavily contested luxury sports watch market quite some time ago, with the introduction of a mechanical Aikon back in 2018 already. Since then, it’s come in many colours and materials, and in different styles. From robust divers to chronographs, and from colourful summer watches to creatively complex renditions, it’s pretty much […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: M.A.D. Editions' M.A.D.1 Gets Slimmer With The M.A.D.1S
A Swiss-made movement, a refined design, and only 1,500 pieces to start. Enter the raffle while you can.
Monochrome
First Look - The Favre Leuba Deep Blue Revival, A Remake of a Historical Diver (incl. Video)
A long-established name in the watch industry, with a deep heritage in crafting some of the most impressive tool watches during the golden era of mechanical watchmaking, Favre Leuba ad to face ups and downs, with multiple owners. Recently, the brand has been revived with veteran industry leader Patrik Hoffmann at its head. Re-launched at […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Accessible and Retro-Styled Alpina Heritage Automatic
Alpina is adding to its small yet growing Heritage collection with two pieces inspired by Interwar period styling (1918 to 1939, although Alpina leans into the 1940s as well). The pair have different dials within the same case that adopt a retro yet more contemporary size for 2024. Overall, the new Heritage Automatics are clean, […]
Monochrome
Introducing - New Dials for the Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38
Arnold & Son’s obsession with the Moon has materialised in different models, revealing our neighbouring satellite in its most spectacular form. Starting with the Perpetual Moon of 2013 with its enormous moon, followed by the Double Hemisphere Perpetual with two large moons and culminating with the 2021 Luna Magna with one of the largest spherical […]
Worn & Wound
Unimatic’s Latest LE is a Modello Cinque Made in Collaboration with the Armoury
Considered one of the finest menswear retailers on the planet, The Armoury has been dressing men since its inception in 2010. Since then, it’s grown to become as much a store as a brand itself. Under the discerning eye of founder Mark Cho, every element of The Armoury is a considered approach to traditional, classic, and lasting style. It’s no wonder, then, that their latest release, in partnership with Italian brand UNIMATIC, would hold these same values. The UNIMATIC x The Armoury Modello Cinque U5S-TA ‘Blu Notte’ is a timepiece that balances classic design elements without ever veering into the fussy – while also being incredibly contemporary in its approach to creating a timepiece for today as well as tomorrow. Designed to be a daily wear watch, this watch has just enough design elements to keep the eye interested without veering into being ostentatious. For instance, the rich blue dial is a perfect neutral, while the concentric circles pressed into the dial give it a bit of depth. This is then offset against a cool grey seconds rail and dial trims, and all brought together with white hour and minute hands, filled with Super-LumiNova for visibility in a variety of conditions (like, say, cocktails in your best suit). The watch comes with a ‘Blu Notte’ tapered quick-release two-piece TPU strap and a nylon strap is also included for more versatility. Within the 36mm stainless steel case is an automatic caliber Sellita SW200-1b, promising approximately 41...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Ressence TYPE 3 BB2
The latest oil-filled mechanical wonder from Ressence features a blacked-out theme that’s aesthetically similar to the limited Type 3 BBB from 2022, but a splash of dial colour was added for contrast. Unlike the standard Type 3 Black, the watch is in full stealth mode with a black DLC-coated case that merges with the glossy […]
Monochrome
First Look - The new Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30th Anniversario 916
Gerald Charles, a brand founded by the legendary watch designer Gérald Genta in 2000, has made a convincing comeback under Federico Ziviani’s leadership. The revival began in 2020 with the reintroduction of a distinctive 2006 Genta design, the unique Maestro Anniversary case, paired with a moulded rubber strap. Several iterations of the Maestro have been […]
Fratello
Deep-Diving Destro: Doxa Debuts The New Left-Hand-Drive Sub 300T Professional Aristera
Doxa is always one of the brands we keep a close eye on when Geneva Watch Days rolls around. This year, the brand has not disappointed with two major pieces of news. The first is a new left-hand-drive Sub 300T Professional Aristera. The second is the collection-wide rollout of the “Sea Emerald” green colorway. The […] Visit Deep-Diving Destro: Doxa Debuts The New Left-Hand-Drive Sub 300T Professional Aristera to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Métiers d’Art Chinese Zodiac “Snake”
Having released Chinese Zodiac editions annually for the past 12 years, Vacheron Constantin presents the Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Snake”. The serpent is the sixth Chinese zodiac sign for the upcoming year that begins with the Chinese New Year on January 29, 2025. Available in pink gold or platinum, the new zodiac edition illustrates the brand’s metiers d’art expertise with hand-engraving and enamelling on a dial that depicts a cobra. Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin has developed a niche with its Métiers d’Art offerings, some of which, like the Wind God and Thunder God pair of repeaters, are exceptional. The Zodiac series is more accessible than the repeaters, but still relies on Vacheron Constantin’s in-house calibre with a unique display that indicates the time and calendar in windows, leaving the dial free for artisanal decoration. The quality of work on the dial is high, although the snake is not a universally loved creature, unlike say the dragon, which will limit the appeal of this particular edition. The king of snakes The snake edition employs the same case as last zodiac models, which measures 40 mm in diameter and 12.72 mm in thickness. The movement also remains the same cal. 2460 G4 with a window-based display. Instead of traditional hands, the watch displays the time, date, and day of the week through four windows on the dial. The apertures at 11 and one o’clock indicate the hours and minutes, whereas tho...
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Blue
Tudor’s latest release is the Black Bay Chrono Blue, a boutique-exclusive with a familiar “Panda” dial with snowflake hands, but now in “Tudor Blue”. Just like its pink dial, limited production counterpart, the new chronograph is equipped with a “5-link” bracelet, which is basically Tudor’s version of the Jubilee bracelet. Initial thoughts Tudor is a brand that combines appealing, functional design with historical basis – and an exceptional price-performance ratio. Though still excellent value, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is not revolutionary; the only novel element is the blue dial. However, it remains a strong option for anyone looking for affordable sports chronograph with a high-spec movement. I prefer the look of the original black-and-silver “Panda” dial, but I would lean towards the new variant simply because it is the only regular production model equipped with the “5-link” bracelet that pairs well with the design. Priced at US$5,675, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is a great value proposition. Its strongest feature is the COSC-certified MT5813, a calibre based on Breitling’s B01 but upgraded significantly by Tudor and likely the best chronograph movement at this price point. Tudor blue The stainless steel case is 41 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm in thickness. Water resistant to 200 m, the case features a screw-down crown engraved with the Tudor rose logo and screw-down pushers. The case is satin-brushed on its tops, and mirror-polished on its sid...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière - A Titanium Dive Watch That Takes Lume To The Next Level
Christopher Ward might have another hit on its hands. The brand’s new C60 Trident Lumière is an impressive titanium dive watch with a dial that cranks legibility in the dark up to 11. And that’s not the entire story. This new addition to the Christopher Ward collection perfectly blends specs with looks, which is why […] Visit Hands-On With The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière - A Titanium Dive Watch That Takes Lume To The Next Level to read the full article.
Fratello
The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Venice Series” - Three Monet-Inspired Watches From The Métiers Rares Atelier
In the 1999 movie The Talented Mr. Ripley, the character Dickie Greenleaf, who takes over Tom Ripley’s life, says, “‘See Venice and die,’ is what they say? Or is it Rome?” Well, Dickie, the city you’re looking for is Naples. But I have to admit I also thought Goethe once wrote that it was Venice. I […] Visit The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Venice Series” - Three Monet-Inspired Watches From The Métiers Rares Atelier to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst Limited Edition
Handwerkskunst… If you know one thing or two about A. Lange & Söhne, you’ll understand that this slightly complex word for anyone not German is actually sweet to hear – to make it simple, it does translate by craftsmanship. What it means is rare watches, but mostly finishings and decorations of the highest rank. For […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst Limited Edition
A surprise release continues the celebration for 25 years of the Datograph.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Datograph Handwerkskunst
For the milestone anniversary of its famed chronograph, A. Lange & Söhne hasn’t held back on commemorative editions. Starting with the Datograph Up/Down in blue and then the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”, the German brand now concludes the anniversary with the third and final celebratory edition, the Datograph Handwerkskunst. A finely executed watch that will instinctively appeal to Lange fans, the yellow gold Datograph Handwerkskunst is unsurprising given the occasion. And like past Handwerkskunst editions – this is the eighth watch in the Handwerkskunst series – it is relatively inaccessible: the watch is limited to just 25 pieces and substantially pricier than the regular production Datograph. The L951.8 in the Datograph Handwerkskunst Initial thoughts The original Datograph set the benchmark for a high-end, classical chronograph movement when it was launched in 1999. Exceptional both aesthetically and technically, then and now, the Datograph remains equally impressive 25 years later. The Datograph Handwerkskunst has all the familiar traits that defined the model for the past 25 years. On top of that, it has an artisanally decorated dial finished with tremblage. And more significantly, the movement gets a substantial extra dose of black polishing on all the chronograph levers, enhancing an already impressive chronograph calibre. Notably, the Datograph Handwerkskunst returns to the Datograph design of 1999. The tremblage dial has the neo-c...
Monochrome
First Look - The Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph is a Regatta Chronograph from a Newly-Created Brand
Albishorn is a new independent brand born to create “imaginary vintage” – watches that could have existed, capturing the allure of the past while exploring the possibilities of what might have been. Inspired by a “what if” spirit, the brand’s inaugural model seeks to answer the question: “What would a modern regatta chronograph have looked […]
Worn & Wound
The Latest From Massena LAB is a Collaboration with an Entirely New Brand: Albishorn
Well, it wouldn’t be Geneva Watch Days without some wild new release from Massena LAB. Last year, the well-known design house partnered with Sylvain Pinaud to offer up a take on Pinaud’s modern marvel of a chronograph. This year, they’re looking back, joining with a brand new independent watchmaker making their debut at Geneva Watch Days, Albishorn, to give us something a little different. Albishorn, as I said, is a brand new indie brand with a unique focus - creating what they call “imaginary vintage” watches that bend watchmaking history to create something a little different. Their inaugural release, produced in partnership with Massena LAB, imagines a hypothetical late 1930s regatta chronograph (or regatta timer if you prefer), inspired by Le Bol d’Or Mirabaud - the world’s largest inland lake regatta, first run in 1939 on Lac Léman. A quick glance at the new Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph will leave vintage heads with a clear sense of origin. The new watch clearly pulls design language from Rolex’s iconic Zerographe chronographs, the early predecessor to now iconic watches like the Daytona. The watch’s dial layout is also reminiscent of World War II multi-scale chronographs, and the mono-pusher layout certainly invokes a vintage charm. Obviously, this is not a genuine vintage watch, and certain details of the Maxigraph betray that. The execution feels quite modern, with sharply machined elements like the stark red pusher on the case flank, mu...
Monochrome
First Look - The Doxa SUB 300T Aristera, The Lefty Version of the Classic Orange Diver
Since its creation in 1966, the Doxa SUB 300 has become one of the most emblematic dive watches around, with its quirky design and its no-deco bezel. And always with the crown at 3 o’clock… Until now. The new Doxa SUB 300T Aristera is specifically designed with the crown positioned at 9 o’clock, making it […]