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Monochrome
Christiaan van der Klaauw is one the most famous watchmakers in the Netherlands, and has gained fame for being possibly the best advocate of astronomical watches – in fact, this has even become the subtitle of the CVDK brand. Since 1974, this genius clock and watchmaker has produced some of the most beautiful and complicated […]
Worn & Wound
Clement Meynier, an engineer, was fascinated by the automotive and horological world, which led him to enroll in a watchmaking training center in Geneva. Six years ago, he established his watch brand called Depancel, a name derived from a combination of three French car manufacturers: Delage, Panhard, and Facel. He aims to create watches that embody the same philosophies and creative freedom as those represented by these historic brands. Since its beginning, they have also established strong connections with the motorsport world. This includes participating in events such as the Rétromobile Paris and Epoqu’Auto Lyon and serving as the Official Sponsor of GPX Racing. Most recently, the company has partnered with the Masters Historic Championship at Silverstone in the UK. New for 2024, Depancel is updating its Allure watch with a sleeker and more refined 36mm stainless steel case. The lug-to-lug tip measurement is only 42.8mm, and the overall thickness is just 10.95mm, making it suitable for any gender or wrist size. The cushion case design of this watch is inspired by the 1970s, and it is made almost entirely of brushed steel, with the bezel being the only part that is mirror-polished. The short angular lugs and the shape of the end links give the appearance of an integrated bracelet, even though it is not. This design allows the watch to resemble an integrated bracelet sports watch, which is currently very popular while allowing you to pair it with your preferred straps...
Deployant
In the world of luxury watches, collaborations between watchmakers and automotive brands are not uncommon, offering enthusiasts a tangible connection to the adrenaline-pumping world of motorsports. The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916 is a prime example of this synergy, celebrating the 30th anniversary of the iconic Ducati 916 superbike-a machine that has left an indelible mark on the motorcycle racing world.
Worn & Wound
Since 2019, watchmakers Roue have been updating their TPS model in new colors, bringing new life to a vintage-inspired design. In the past, we have covered their releases of Two, Three, Four, Five, Six, and Seven – so you can make a pretty educated guess of what’s been released this week. Like previous iterations of their TPS collection, the Eight and Nine are inspired by the iconic Porsche 910, winner of the Nürburgring 1000-kilometer race in 1967 (a detail which can be seen on the embossed caseback of this line). The racing inspiration can be felt throughout this watch, most especially in the colorways for both new references. In Eight, you will find a gray dial with orange and yellow accents. For Nine, the tonal language is more classic, utilizing a blue dial with red and white accents. Both watches come with complementary straps which are at once sporty and a bit elegant – much like the TPS line itself. One can choose either a perforated leather Driver strap, or a sportier silicone option. Features of this watch include a chronograph with both a tachymeter and pulsometer scale. Given the limited real estate on this 40mm case, one would think these functions might be a little squeezed into the frame, so to speak. But Roue has proven time and again that the TPS model is a great example of a perfectly proportioned dial. The Roue TPS Eight and Nine, like previous iterations, run on a Seiko VK63 Meca-Quartz movement, which combines the accuracy of quartz techno...
Monochrome
Under the leadership of Manuel Emch, Louis Erard has gained significant attention, mainly due to its affordable luxury approach and collaborations with notable watchmakers and designers. These partnerships have brought the brand into the limelight since its revival following a private investor’s acquisition in 2003. Renowned watchmakers and creatives such as Konstantin Chaykin, Alain Silberstein, […]
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard continues their ongoing series of collaborations with important independent watchmakers via their Le Regulateur collection with a new group of limited editions made in collaboration with Stefan Kudoke. Kudoke is a German watchmaker who has gained a great deal of acclaim in recent years for his beautifully simple timepieces that tend to feature simple dials with subtle textures and elaborately engraved movements. The Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 references are seen by many connoisseurs as modern classics, and like all of Stefan’s watches they have immediately recognizable motifs that make them distinctly “Kudoke.” These Louis Erard limited editions borrow just the right amount of these design elements to make them easily identifiable as being made in partnership with Kudoke, but probably only to the most serious watch nerds. Compared to previous limited editions with watchmakers like Konstantin Chaykin and Alain Silberstein, the Kudoke watches feel considerably more under the radar and less flashy, which is fitting given the general aesthetic Kudoke is known for. The Le Regulateur concept feels like a natural for a collaboration with Kudoke because so much of his work is based in a certain kind of precision that is part and parcel with traditional German watchmaking. For example, Kudoke’s watches tend to feature meticulously finished nameplates, chapter rings, which are represented on these watches in the dual signatures on each dial, as well as the railway t...
Teddy Baldassarre
If we're ranking watch styles by everyday practicality, it's hard to beat the alarm watch. Most of us are regularly needing reminders of appointments, events, and other commitments, and to have the source of such audible alerts right on your wrist, rather than buried in a pocket or a handbag, would seem to be the height of practicality even in today's high-tech world. Around the middle of the 20th Century, many watchmakers agreed and began to embrace the style, but alarm watches never achieved anywhere near the widespread popularity of other complications like chronographs and GMTs. Nevertheless, the alarm watch has played a significant role in horological history, and a handful of important brands have not only been instrumental in its creation and development but continue to rely on it as a major pillar of their collections today. Here is the story of how the mechanical alarm watch came to be, how it became a signature style of certain watchmakers, and how it continues to evolve today despite its niche status in the industry. Johannes Dürrstein, regarded as the inventor of the alarm watch Watches with alarm functions go back farther into horological history than most probably realize. Johannes Dürrsstein, a watchmaker in Glashütte, Germany, invented the first mass-produced, alarm-equipped pocket watch caliber in 1900. Dürrstein’s invention used an extra-long mainspring that could fuel both the timekeeping and the independent alarm hand, which was activated by a...
Worn & Wound
Two prominent industry insiders have recently collaborated to establish a new watch company, Gagà Laboratorio, based in Switzerland. Mo Coppoletta will serve as the Art Director, and Ruben Tomella as the owner of the Italy based Gagà Milano brand and the newly formed company, Gagà Laboratorio. Mr. Tomella has had a successful tenure with Gagà Milano for two decades. He founded brand offshoot Manufacture Gagà in Switzerland, which has focused on creating high-end products for Gagà Milano in collaboration with leading industry partners, including the development of tourbillon movements in partnership with Hysek, a Swiss independent brand. In 2020, Mr. Tomella decided to redirect the activities of the Swiss company and embarked on establishing a new brand, Gagà Laboratorio. The mission of Gagà Laboratorio is to create entry-level luxury timepieces that emphasize design while maintaining high-quality movement standards. To achieve this vision, he partnered with artist Mo Coppoletta, a long-time friend. Together, they have initiated this new chapter for Gagà. Mo Coppoletta is a world-renowned artist, designer, and tattoo artist, known for his collaborations with Bvlgari on two Octo Finissimo limited editions featuring his tattoo artwork. In my interview with Mr. Tomella, he discusses the vision of Gagà Laboratorio. “After 16 years in the watchmaking industry at the helm of Gagà Milano, in 2020, I felt a strong pull towards the world of independent watchmaking and d...
Monochrome
On the occasion of Porsche launching the 911 992.2 Hybrid, Porsche Design introduced a new watch collection to its custom-built program. Mechanically based on the previous generation of the Globetimer, Porsche Design now puts it in the titanium case of the chronograph. Made to order, and with tons of custom options on offer, you can […]
Monochrome
Almost two years ago, we published a story about two young and talented watchmakers coming out of A. Lang & Söhne to set up shop for themselves. Johannes Kallinich and Thibault Claeys, founders of the Kallinich Claeys watchmaking atelier, were hard at work to develop and build their first watch, the Einser Zentralsekunde. On paper, […]
Worn & Wound
When I think of Victorinox, only one thing comes to mind: their iconic Swiss Army knife. Growing up in the scout program, I thought that a Swiss Army knife was the coolest thing ever, even if I couldn’t find one with the perfect tool set. Years later I’ve come to learn that Victorinox has an impressive line of products, ranging from iconic multi-tools, travel gear, fragrances, and of course, watches. When the Dive Pro landed on my desk, I was quite intrigued with its angular design and rugged appearance. Throughout this review, we’ll take a look at the technical specs and ultimately my opinion on the watches in general. The Dive Pro line from Victorinox is an extension of their dive watch offering with eight new references, bringing an increased depth rating of 300 meters, new case materials, and some bold colorways. While all of the new Dive Pro watches feature a 43mm case, faceted unidirectional bezels, and sapphire crystals, you have the option of two case materials: 316L Stainless Steel and Grade 2 Titanium. I feel that both of these materials were carefully selected for their unique properties they bring to the table. While titanium is a lighter material with more inherent corrosion resistance, these benefits come at a cost, literally. Stainless steel provides slightly less corrosion resistance but can be machined much easier allowing the material to be manufactured to the same quality at a cheaper price. Depending on the environments you expect to dive in, you ...
SJX Watches
“Tool” watches form a substantial part of watchmakers’ offerings today, at practically every point of the price spectrum. But true tool watches built for – and actually used by – professionals are rare. That’s partly due to the fact that inexpensive electronic watches do just as good a job. But Sinn continues to offer unusual timekeepers conceived specifically for professionals, ranging from pilots to firefighters, including the EZM 12 designed for emergency medical workers. Dr Martin Leitl with the EZM 12 Einsatzzeitmesser Historically a brand focused on tool watches, many watches in Sinn’s catalogue are no-frills timepieces with maximum functionality and legibility. Arguably the pinnacle of its tool watch line-up is the EZM series, short for Einsatzzeitmesser, which translates as “mission timer”. A “mission timer”, generally speaking, is an instrument for time measurement in a professional capacity, often one used for military applications, timekeeping on scientific expeditions, or even automobile races and rallies. The watches that make up the EZM series are largely designed for the needs of professionals in various fields, often conceived with the input of users in the field. The EZM 1 The watch that started the series was the EZM 1 with its distinctive left-handed case orientation. Introduced in 1997, the first “mission timer” was developed for the Zentrale Unterstützungsgruppe Zoll (ZUZ), the tactical unit of Germany’s federal customs aut...
Monochrome
As a platform dedicated to fine watchmaking and a deeply rooted passion for independent watchmaking, the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (or AHCI) is very close to our hearts. This institution, preserving the traditions of watchmaking by forming a community of watchmakers, was founded by Svend Andersen and Vincent Calabrese. It has brought forth many illustrious […]
Monochrome
German brand Hanhart began manufacturing stopwatches in Switzerland before relocating to Germany in 1902, where it gained renown as a producer of Flieger (pilot’s) chronographs for pilots and naval officers during World War II. With a solid repertoire of vintage-inspired models, the new Fly Navy Aerosphere is a more contemporary watch and flies the insignia of Germany’s […]
SJX Watches
Whilst many dream of owning a watch from one of the great Swiss watchmakers, the price points at retail can be discouraging for those on a budget. So where does this leave the enthusiast who wants to dip his or her toes into the world of high-end watchmaking? A little digging into lesser-known models, which we present here. We’re not just discussing the most inexpensive watches from Rolex and the “Holy Trinity”, since that’s too obvious and mundane. So instead, we bring you five watches that are not necessarily the most affordable, but amongst the best value propositions. Majority of the five presented below are ancestors of current-production models, and one is a less popular recent launch. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, first-generation with meteorite dial Rolex is well known for dials in a variety of unique materials such as mineral stones and mother of pearl. Arguably more exotic, at least at the time of its launch, was meteorite. Whilst it’s not exactly known when the first meteorite dials were introduced by Rolex, the material has a constant in its catalogue for some two decades now. The latest meteorite additions to the line were the Daytona models of 2021, but the Daytona has in fact sported a meteorite dial before. In the early 2004 the material was combined with white gold for the first Daytona with a meteorite dial. It was available on a leather strap or a white gold bracelet, which is the version to go for. This first-generation Rolex ref. 1165...
SJX Watches
The first quarter results of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that just announced a new chief executive, illustrate a well-established trend in the luxury goods industry, with the group’s jewellery brands outperforming its watchmakers in the three months to end June 2024. Dominated by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, the Swiss group’s jewellery division eked out a 4% increase in sales, reflecting the strength of the group’s twin jewellery giants. Notably, the revenue growth was “supported by both jewellery and watches”, reflecting the brand equity of each jeweller has carried over into their respective watch offerings. The three jewellery brands – the smallest is Buccellati – accounted for 70% of Richemont’s turnover. Although profit was not announced, the jewellers are also responsible for an even greater share of the group’s profits. Watch weakness In contrast, the watch division saw revenue fall 13%. Amongst the division’s brands are IWC, Panerai, Piaget, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Interestingly, A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin were singled out for their “resilience”. Unsurprisingly, both are haute horlogerie brands that derive the highest proportion of revenue from in-house boutiques, as opposed to third-party retailers. Whether this resilience is durable is an open question, although odds are not in the brands’ favour given their respective product mix, sales strategies, and consumer sentiment. Only available at boutiques At a group leve...
SJX Watches
Singapore retailer The Hour Glass is staging IAMWATCH over four days in October 2024. The event is conceived as a gathering for watch enthusiasts with notable independent watchmakers in attendance, including Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk, Florian Bédat and Gaël Petermann, Kari Voutilainen, Raúl Pagès, and Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia. IAMWATCH will serve as a platform for face-to-face engagement between watch enthusiasts and noted industry personalities like Aurel Bacs, Jean Arnault, Maximilian Büsser, and Pierre Biver, providing enthusiasts opportunities to connect and learn. The event includes presentations, lectures, and fireside chats with more than 40 industry insiders. IAMWATCH will be held at the Singapore Edition hotel. Admission is free and open to the public daily October 18-20, from 11 am-8 pm, however, registration is required and it can be done online at Iamwatch.com.
Monochrome
One of the oldest watchmaking brands in Switzerland, Bovet was taken over by Pascal Raffy in the early 2000s. Since then, the brand has consistently invested in a holistic approach to watchmaking. Bovet develops and produces its watches in-house with a rare level of vertical integration, combining expert craftsmanship and technical expertise. Bovet timepieces are […]
Monochrome
As we’ve recently seen, colours are everywhere. From accessible to high-end timepieces, watchmakers dare to explore the entire colour spectrum, bringing boldness and fun to all sorts of watches. With summer right around the corner, it is the perfect time for Hamilton to add a splash of colours to one of its classics, a go-anywhere-do-anything […]
Monochrome
The ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement is well-known in the world of watchmaking for being tough, reliable, and versatile. Since it was first introduced in the early 1970s, it has gained a strong reputation for being accurate and long-lasting, which has made it a favourite chronograph calibre among both watchmakers and enthusiasts. In addition, the […]
SJX Watches
Having covered the highlights from independent watchmakers and historical pocket watches at The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII on May 24 and 25, we now turn to complicated watches past and present. Amongst the historical are an Omega 30I tourbillon wristwatch tested at the Geneva, Neuchatel and Kew observatories, as well as a pair of chronographs with historical movements, an Excelsior Park with the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph calibre and a Montblanc with the large, 17”’ Minerva monopoussoir chronograph movement. More recent is the Patek Philippe ref. 5059R London edition with applied Roman numerals and the Girard-Perregaux Opera Two, an ultra-complicated watch that’s a value-buy. The auction is scheduled for May 24 (lots 801-934) and May 25 (lots 935-1083), with online bidding and the catalogue available on Phillips.com. The Patek Philippe ref. 5059R made for the Grand Exhibition in London. 822 – Lange Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” Launched in 2021 to overwhelming demand, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” was the A. Lange & Söhne’s second luminous digital-display watch after the “Phantom” of 2010. It was a limited edition of 200 watches and based on the second-generation Zeitwerk, which is visually almost identical to the original model but enhanced with several technical upgrades, including a longer, 72-hour power reserve. Like the earlier “Phantom”, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” has a tinted sapphire dial that reveals the luminous numer...
Worn & Wound
We have a soft spot for Nivada Grenchen here at Worn & Wound. Founded in 1926 in Switzerland and distributed in the United States both under the Nivada Grenchen and Croton marques, Nivada Grenchen watches are renowned for their durability and quality. Models like the Antarctic, Chronomaster, and Depthomatic earned the respect of consumers, both professional and otherwise. In 2020, the then-dormant brand was revived with the mission of staying true to its mid-century aesthetic with modern technology. One of the latest models to hit the block is the Nivada Grenchen F77, a watch we are proud to offer here in the Windup Watch Shop. A deep dive reveals a timepiece that is both true to its predecessor and incredibly relevant today. We have a soft spot for Nivada Grenchen here at Worn & Wound. Founded in 1926 in Switzerland and distributed in the United States both under the Nivada Grenchen and Croton marques, Nivada Grenchen watches are renowned for their durability and quality. Models like the Antarctic, Chronomaster, and Depthomatic earned the respect of consumers, both professional and otherwise. In 2020, the then-dormant brand was revived with the mission of staying true to its mid-century aesthetic with modern technology. One of the latest models to hit the block is the Nivada Grenchen F77, a watch we are proud to offer here in the Windup Watch Shop. A deep dive reveals a timepiece that is both true to its predecessor and incredibly relevant today. The post New To the Shop:...
SJX Watches
The upcoming Phillips watch auction in Hong Kong includes the expected offerings from establishment brands and independent watchmakers, but more unusually an impressive line-up of complicated pocket watches – almost all from the same owner. Though the number of pocket watches is small, the selection is particularly notable in terms of quality, complications, and condition. We look at a quartet of impressive pocket watches in the sale, including two important watches that are not Swiss but built on Swiss ebauches: a 1930 L. Leroy grand complication with a four-digit year indicator and the massive, 63 mm Charles Frodsham minute repeating split-seconds chronograph with tourbillon. With the exception of the Audemars Piguet, all the pocket watches were consigned by the same collector, who also owns the unique Patek Philippe ref. 767 grand complication with double-split seconds. The auction takes place on May 24 (lots 801-934) and May 25 (lots 935-1083), and the online catalogue is here. The Frodsham double complication with tourbillon 876 – L. Leroy & Cie. Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Leroy” is a storied name in French watchmaker that began with Basile Le Roy (1765-1839), who was a contemporary of Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823). Like Breguet, Le Roy was clockmaker to royalty, including Napoleon. But this Leroy pocket watch was made by the firm of L. Leroy & Cie. founded by Louis Leroy (1859-1934), who was not related to Le Roy but worked for the ...
Monochrome
Omega is one of the largest luxury watchmakers on the market, carrying multiple emblematic models (Seamaster and Speedmaster, to name a few). However, one vital element of the brand’s success lies in its almost unique take on precision. Omega has long been a pioneer in this field, often ranking first in chronometry contests and introducing […]
Teddy Baldassarre
For many watch enthusiasts, a Timex watch is the gateway drug for a lifetime of timepiece obsession - understated in presentation, stylish in execution, affordable in price and found just about everywhere. And what Timex may lack in prestige and collectibility, especially when stacked up against industry titans from Switzerland, it makes up for in the key role it has played in "democratizing" timekeeping and for its undeniable influence on Americana and popular culture. How much do you really know about Timex? Read on for a brief but detailed historical perspective, followed by a showcase of the most noteworthy Timex watches on the market now. Waterbury Clock Company Factory From its earliest days, the company now known as Timex was dedicated to making timekeepers that were both reliable and affordable to the masses. Based in Waterbury, Connecticut, and originally a division of brass manufacturer Benedict & Burnham, the Waterbury Clock Company opened its doors in 1854, specializing in the mass production of clocks with gears and wheels made of brass. By 1857, when it was incorporated as an independent business, Waterbury Clock Company was churning out millions of clocks, all priced lower than their European competitors, with parts sourced from manufacturers in Connecticut’s Naugatuck Valley region, which became known at the time as the “Switzerland of America;” Waterbury, the largest city in the region, still carries the nickname “Brass City.” The manufacturi...
Monochrome
We’ve said it on numerous occasions, but watchmaking isn’t limited to Switzerland or even Europe. There is potential all around the globe, sometimes in the most unexpected places. Japan, for that matter, is one of the most fascinating spots for watches, including independent, creative horology. Names such as Minase, Hajime Asaoka (and Kurono) or Kikuchi […]
Monochrome
Over the past couple of years, plenty of watchmakers have gone above and beyond to demonstrate (and thus preserve) traditional watchmaking methods. It might be a romantic way of thinking, but we shouldn’t forget where the industry comes from and how watches were made in the old days. No CNC-machining, no computational calculations, no advanced […]
Worn & Wound
It’s hard not to love Max Büsser. Anyone who has met the man in person will tell you that he is a fount of enthusiasm and creativity. The watches he creates are otherworldly and fun and, like ‘em or not, his watches have helped to - alongside brands like Urwerk and watchmakers like Vianney Halter - push independent watch design to new and interesting directions in a big way. One of last year’s big releases from MB&F; (alongside the UFO-like HM11) was the HM8 Mark 2, which was initially released in June to plenty of fanfare. At the time, the watch was available in two configurations - one in white, and a limited edition of 33 in a wonderful British Racing Green. That limited edition is now long gone, and in its place, MB&F; has announced a new limited release of the HM8 Mark 2, this time in blue. For those who may have missed it last summer, the HM8 Mark 2 is an automotive-inspired watch and an evolution of, you guessed it, the HM8 that was first released in 2016. Max Büsser - who has said time and again that he wanted to design cars long before he was interested in watches - has tapped into his affection for automobiles and racing as inspiration for a number of watches and clocks over the years, to great success. The HM8 Mark 2, and the HM8 before it, pull from this history. Racing and watches have always been linked. The simple reality is that racing without timing doesn’t really work and so, for as long as there have been cars, watchmakers have been ...
Monochrome
You might remember that, a bit over a year ago, we’ve shared with you the story of one of our editors (Xavier, an avid cyclist himself) participating in a training camp with the recently formed Tudor Pro Cycling Team. Part of the trip, and of great interest for us as a watch magazine, was the […]
Worn & Wound
To say that Louis Erard has been on a roll would be a massive understatement. Watches like the Petite Seconde Guilloche and the Main II showcase a level of build quality, attention to detail, and finishing that is far above their price points. What has made all this possible is Louis Erard’s willingness to work with artists, craftsmen, and independent watchmakers to usher in new ideas and techniques. This openness to and appreciation for individual style and traditional methods has been the brand’s calling card as of late. In this same spirit, Louis Erard proudly introduces Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner, a new duo of watches created in collaboration with esteemed watchmaker and jeweler Cédric Johner. We’re excited to offer them right here in the Windup Watch Shop and discover what makes these two new watches some of the best and most personalized Louis Erard has ever created. To say that Louis Erard has been on a roll would be a massive understatement. Watches like the Petite Seconde Guilloche and the Main II showcase a level of build quality, attention to detail, and finishing that is far above their price points. What has made all this possible is Louis Erard’s willingness to work with artists, craftsmen, and independent watchmakers to usher in new ideas and techniques. This openness to and appreciation for individual style and traditional methods has been the brand’s calling card as of late. In this same spirit, Louis Erard proudly introduces Le...
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