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Big Bang Hublot

Hublot's 2005 "Art of Fusion" chronograph that reshaped 21st-century luxury.

Tudor GMT: The Definitive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor May 7, 2025

Tudor GMT: The Definitive Guide

Before getting into the Tudor GMT guide, let's put the brand in context as it has experienced a modern renaissance since returning to the U.S. market with the Black Bay collection in 2012. No longer content as a mere sub-brand of big brother Rolex, Tudor has established itself as the de facto tool-watch manufacture in the $3,000 - $6,000 range, and the brand has done it through methodical progress within the Black Bay, Ranger, and Pelagos families. In 2016, Tudor introduced its first in-house caliber in the North Flag, and has since established its own movements throughout the portfolio, allowing Tudor to approach complications in its own way. Arguably, the most important of these complications is the GMT, which made its modern debut with the Black Bay GMT in 2018. But that’s not the first GMT from the brand.  In this guide, we’ll take a look back at what may be some forgotten GMT references from Tudor, and make our way through the now expansive modern stable of watches boasting the reference today. A GMT is likely the most most requested feature when it comes to new Tudor watches, and lately, the brand has been particularly in tune with those demands - to the point where it’s safe to say that we’re spoiled for choice these days. That’s not to say that there aren’t a few expressions of this complication that we’d still like to see, and I’ll outline some of those in closing.  The GMT complication is a foundational part of the Rolex identity, with Tudor'...

Dennison Collaborates With Collectability And Introduces Four New ALD Pieces Fratello
May 6, 2025

Dennison Collaborates With Collectability And Introduces Four New ALD Pieces

Just six months after debuting with the ALD model in four dial options, Dennison has returned with a group of new releases. The big news is the brand’s first collaboration, a new piece with Collectability. Four other watches join the catalog, proving this retro design is highly versatile. Last November, I reviewed the initial Dennison […] Visit Dennison Collaborates With Collectability And Introduces Four New ALD Pieces to read the full article.

Record Breaking Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Debuts at Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calibre 89 ref 989J May 2, 2025

Record Breaking Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Debuts at Auction

If you want to own the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, the Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing, you’ll have to fight for it at The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, which will see the first production example go under the hammer. The 1.65 mm stature of the ThinKing is even more impressive coming from a small Russian independent watchmaker, considering previous records were set by big Swiss brands ranging from Piaget to Richard Mille. Notably, this is not the first time a landmark release has been trusted to an auction that isn’t linked to a charity. The most famous example of this was the Patek Philippe Calibre 89 (ref. 989J) back in 1989 at Antiquorum’s thematic sale. The ThinKing will be sold in the first session of the auction, which starts on May 10, 2025, at 2 pm. The ThinKing in profile. Image – Phillips Mr Chaykin achieved the record-setting height with clever construction, including a “double balance wheel” system that places an intermediate wheel between the balance and escapement, allowing both to sit on the same plane. Another notable technical feature is a barrel that is open on both sides, and no thicker than the mainspring itself. And unlike most serially-produced Konstantin Chaykin watches, each ThinKing is made, finished, and assembled by Mr Chaykin himself. Wearability is enhanced by the bolt-on protective shroud in titanium christened “PalanKing”. This increases the height to 5.4 mm, but adds key-less setting and winding, and automatic winding by a...

Thoughts On The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref 5328G Apr 30, 2025

Thoughts On The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G

In true Watches and Wonders tradition, Patek Philippe graced us with a string of new introductions. The Genevan brand unveiled 14 new wrist watches and a unique desk clock this year. Among them, there are always standouts. The big release for this year was not a highly complicated timepiece or a new addition to the […] Visit Thoughts On The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Useful And Useless Complications Fratello
Apr 25, 2025

Fratello On Air: Useful And Useless Complications

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss two popular complications and their usefulness. It’s the type of nerdy talk we hope you enjoy! This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Watch complications are a big part of why many of us collect […] Visit Fratello On Air: Useful And Useless Complications to read the full article.

Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C12 Loco Shows White-Hot Ambition Fratello
Christopher Ward C12 Loco Shows White-Hot Apr 23, 2025

Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C12 Loco Shows White-Hot Ambition

Christopher Ward’s latest flagship pushes the envelope of design and mechanics. Put simply, this is a big deal for the brand and the industry as a whole. The C12 Loco proves that higher-end watchmaking can be found at a more accessible price point. I spent a week with the new C12 Loco in its striking […] Visit Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C12 Loco Shows White-Hot Ambition to read the full article.

An In-Depth Look At The New Rolex Dynapulse Escapement Fratello
Rolex Dynapulse Escapement Rolex surprised Apr 18, 2025

An In-Depth Look At The New Rolex Dynapulse Escapement

Rolex surprised friend and foe with a new movement at this year’s Watches and Wonders. While that’s always a relatively big deal in our little horological sub-universe, caliber 7135 represents a particularly big milestone. Rolex developed a brand-new escapement dubbed Dynapulse. We felt it was about time we took a closer look at it. Of […] Visit An In-Depth Look At The New Rolex Dynapulse Escapement to read the full article.

Bell & Ross Celebrates the 20th Anniversary of the BR-03 with New Skeleton Models Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Celebrates Apr 15, 2025

Bell & Ross Celebrates the 20th Anniversary of the BR-03 with New Skeleton Models

It’s a common refrain here at Worn & Wound: every year is an anniversary. Like death, taxes, and Photoshop renders of what collectors predict the new Rolex will look like, the celebration of anniversaries in the watch industry is a certainty. We’re not complaining. An anniversary of an important watch or collection is a great time to take stock, and there have certainly been plenty of desirable releases over the years centered around big anniversaries. This year, Bell & Ross is celebrating 20 years of the BR-03 collection, their iconic square watch that has become the “face” of the brand over the past two decades.  The celebration begins with the new BR-03 Skeleton, a collection of three watches that capitalizes on a big trend across all sectors of watchmaking while removing the BR-03 from its aviation themed roots, at least a little bit. Bell & Ross has been making skeletonized watches for years (often as part of their Skull series), and these watches highlight their proficiency in that area, and also take advantage of their creativity with lume.  The new BR-03 Skeleton is available in three variants: Black Ceramic, Grey Steel, and Lum Ceramic. All three feature 41mm cases and a new movement, the BR-CAL.328, designed specifically for these watches. While the specs of the caliber are in line with previous time only movements used in recent BR-03 releases (like those, it has a 54 hour power reserve) its architecture has been adjusted, highlighting an “X” motif...

Editors' Picks: Our Top All-New Watches Of 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Apr 14, 2025

Editors' Picks: Our Top All-New Watches Of 2025

Today we keep our post-Watches & Wonders 2025 recaps going with our takes on the best all-new watches of the show. We know there are a lot of line and color extensions released every year but what stood out to us from all the truly new watches? Well, to nobody’s surprise, there is now a watch release that has appeared on all three of three Editors’ Picks we have published so far. Also some smaller brands had big releases we loved this year, so let’s get into them. Mark Bernardo: Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] As always when a gaggle of nerdy watch writers share opinions and ideas, there was a bit of discussion prior to this article as to what constitutes a “new” watch. Does a new case size count, or a new movement or complication in an existing model, or a model from the past that has been radically redesigned but carries the same name? Hopefully I have deftly evaded these eternal (but fascinating) debates by submitting the “newest” and most groundbreaking timepiece I encountered this year. It has to be “new” if it sets a new world record, right? In the case of the Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR], the milestone in question is debuting as the lightest mechanical dive watch ever made - just 52 grams in total, including the strap.The watch is an evolution of 2021’s Diver X Skeleton, which itself emerged from the mainstream (non-skeleton) Diver series, but takes that model’s extreme openworked structure to another level; according to the brand, the inside of the 4...

Hands-On With The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P Apr 14, 2025

Hands-On With The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P

The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P was a surprise at Watches and Wonders 2025. It’s been a long time since the brand introduced a clean, simple watch at a big annual show like this, and it was welcome. Today, we’ll take a closer look at this gem. For Patek Philippe, 2024 was the year of double […] Visit Hands-On With The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P to read the full article.

I Just Can’t Get Enough Of The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Apr 9, 2025

I Just Can’t Get Enough Of The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

Although I became a big Depeche Mode fan later, the most annoying song of the 1980s was “Just Can’t Get Enough.” The overly simple melody by the English electronic band haunted me when it played on the radio and when it wasn’t on. That simple song, with its sharp synthesizer sounds, square and steady disco […] Visit I Just Can’t Get Enough Of The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.

Introducing: The Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof Fratello
Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof There are Apr 4, 2025

Introducing: The Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof

There are always surprises at the major watch shows. This year, one of the unexpected releases was the Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof, a recreation of a manual-wind ’60s watch. The size and some other touches are true to the original. The big names dominate the scene at a show like Watches and Wonders. We spend hours […] Visit Introducing: The Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof to read the full article.

First Look – Vacheron Constantin Unveils the New Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Unveils Apr 3, 2025

First Look – Vacheron Constantin Unveils the New Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar

Vacheron Constantin celebrates its grand 270th anniversary this year. For a brand with such an illustrious and storied past, an anniversary of this calibre means rolling out the big guns. To commemorate the date, Vacheron Constantin unveils a new high-end manufacture calibre combining a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar. Limited to 127 pieces and presented […]

Hands-On: The New Pink Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Apr 2, 2025

Hands-On: The New Pink Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds

For Watches and Wonders 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to go big with its Reverso collection once more. Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced this watch meant for polo players nearly a century ago. Today, however, watch enthusiasts and collectors consider the Reverso a dress watch more than anything else. With the latest Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in full pink gold […] Visit Hands-On: The New Pink Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds to read the full article.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 68, the Biggest Black Bay Yet Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces Apr 1, 2025

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 68, the Biggest Black Bay Yet

It’s a big year, literally and figuratively, for the Black Bay. This year, Tudor has introduced the all new Black Bay 68, continuing with a naming convention that began with the Black Bay 58 all those years ago. The new Black Bay 68 fills out the range of vintage inspired Black Bays with an all new size for the range, coming in at 43mm. According to Tudur, the new size was created to meet demand from customers who wanted a dive watch with a larger footprint. After the Black 58 and Black Bay 54 (both under 40mm) and the longstanding “standard” Black Bay coming in at 41mm, the Black Bay 68 represents genuinely new ground for the collection in terms of size, and signals that the small watch trend that many say started with the Black Bay 58 might be coming to an end.  If you’re familiar with the various forms of the Black Bay, there won’t be too many surprises here. The case is stainless steel with a unidirectional black bezel, with dial options in blue and silver. The dials are subtly domed and have a barely-there radially brushed finish, and are matched with large lume filled hour markers. The hands are the now familiar “Snowflake” style launched in 1969. While the case is 43mm, the important thing to note about these watches is that they are proportionally identical to the Black Bay 54 and Black Bay 58. So, in spite of the larger size, they wear in a way that feels quite familiar if you’ve spent any time at all with either of those earlier Black Bays. Accor...

Hands-On: the Zenith Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy Worn & Wound
Zenith Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy Apr 1, 2025

Hands-On: the Zenith Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy

Few watch brands can resist the siren song of a major anniversary as an excuse to release a cool limited edition (or two, or…more). Zenith, of course, is no exception, and this year marks a big milestone: 160 years. We expect that there will be many celebratory watches beyond what’s unveiled this week in Geneva, but out of the gate Zenith is focusing attention on a segment of the catalog that has loomed large for much of their recent history, the chronograph. “El Primero” and “Zenith” are terms that are nearly interchangeable to some, so it makes sense that they’d spend some time leaning into the complication most associated with the brand.  The new Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy is made up of, you guessed it, blue ceramic versions of Zenith’s most important modern chronographs: the Chronomaster Sport, the Defy Skyline Chronograph, and the Pilot Chronograph. Together, these three watches cover much of the ground Zenith has worked in over the past few years, a period of real expansion for the brand where we’ve seen them decisively into watches that feel very contemporary and of the current moment. Zenith has also quietly been one of the great innovators in the subset of ceramic watchmaking, with many colorful and sometimes unexpected ceramic references dotting their entire collection.  Blue ceramic was chosen for this release because of the color’s close association with the brand and its history. According to Zenith, it all stems from Zenith founder...