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TGIFriday New Experiences: Sumo training at Ikazuchi stable
As part of our special tour on our visit to Tokyo recently, we were treated to a special glimpse of how Sumo wrestlers do their morning training.
Results for Omega De Ville
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SJX Watches
Finnish Finishing: Kortela Valta Unveils the Toka
The Toka from Finnish duo Roope Kortela and René Valta reflects the ongoing appeal of beautifully finished, time-only watches, combining a thoughtfully reworked historical calibre with the brand’s first champlevé enamel dial. With an emphasis on high-grade finishing and increasingly in-house components - including a proprietary free-sprung balance - the Toka is a strong sophomore effort from the startup independent. Rene Valta (foreground) and Roope Kortela Initial thoughts It’s been more than 25 years since Philippe Dufour unveiled the Simplicity, a watch that challenged prevailing wisdom about what fine watchmaking was all about. Launched at a time when brands and collectors were focused on complications, the Simplicity arguably created the niche for highly finished time-only watches and intensified collector focus on independent watchmaking in general. Though the field has become crowded over the past quarter-century, collector demand has proven durable. The Toka is a watch built in this tradition. The Omega calibre inside the Toka has been heavily reworked by Kortela Valta. The watchmakers kept most of the original architecture intact, while applying high-end finishing top to bottom. Furthermore, since the start of 2025, the watchmaking duo has expanded the list of components they’re able to make in-house, including the new free-sprung balance that differentiates the Toka from the Eka and Oma models that preceded it. The Toka features a fairly traditional...
Worn & Wound
Review: the Traska Venturer GMT
I’m not a big “upgrader.” I’ve never been hugely interested in having the latest thing. My style of collecting (or, arguably, of “accumulating”) has always come more from a deep-seated urge for completionism, rather than a desire always to have the best or newest. When I do take the plunge on something, I try to get exactly what I want, or the best option available, and then, typically, I’m pretty happy with it. It’s why I’m still using the iPhone 12 Pro Max I bought five years ago (it works perfectly), why I was totally comfortable - in buying my first gravel bike this summer - to opt for an older model year of the Cannondale Topstone instead of the shiniest brand new version, and why I’ve felt absolutely no urge to pick up a more recent iteration of my beloved Omega Seamaster. Still, occasionally, a meaningful update comes along that genuinely grabs my attention. Most recently, that happened with the watch I’m reviewing here: the Traska Venturer GMT, now in its sixth generation. There was a time, when watches and writing were a hobby and not a vocation, that I was the “NWA-every-other-week” type, but as my collecting has slowed down, and since I’m lucky enough to satisfy much of my urge for novelty through work, I’m much more restrained in my purchasing habits. The result of this is that I’ve somewhat fallen off the microbrand treadmill, the constant in and out of FedEx boxes from my house now primarily a professional concern, rather t...
Worn & Wound
Our Favorite Watches for Summer 2025
It’s Memorial Day Weekend, the unofficial start of summer. You know what that means: it’s time to talk summer watches. We’re not really sure when the “Summer Watch” concept began in earnest, but every year, the community’s thoughts collectively turn to seasonally appropriate watches for the hot and sticky months. Are summer watches a watch media invention? It’s possible. But there’s no denying that some watches just work better in the warmer, sunnier weather. We’d never say you can’t wear a precious metal watch dress watch on a glossy leather strap in the middle of July, but somehow we all seem to know that a lightweight diver on a rubber strap just makes more sense. Here then, are the watches we anticipate getting the most time on our wrists this summer. Feel free to chime in in the comments below to let us know what you expect to be wearing most as the summer heat sets in. Devin Pennypacker A go-to summer watch could really only mean one thing to me, it’s dive watch season. Truthfully, it’s always dive watch season for me, but at least during this time of year, I have some justification. More likely than not, if you run into me this summer baking like a lizard on the beach, jumping through the cold waves like a child, or taking in some fresh air, prolonging my time in the park, I’ll most likely be wearing my Omega Planet Ocean 2200.50. I am sure I just shocked everyone with that out-of-character pick. Sure, I could have selected any dive watch...
Worn & Wound
The Best Chronograph Watches for Beginners Under $1,000
When time really counts - whether you’re speeding around a race track, plotting a navigational course, or timing the beats of a patient’s heart - you need a stopwatch. At one point, the function of a stopwatch was completely separate from that of a wristwatch. Enter the chronograph. Adding a stopwatch compilation - that is, a feature beyond telling the time - to a traditional watch was revolutionary when it was invented in the nineteenth century. Today, they are one of the most popular types of watches amongst enthusiasts for their storied heritage and visual appeal. (As Omega will have you know, they’ve even been to the moon.) But for many enthusiasts, they can feel out of reach - mechanically complex, they require significantly greater purchase and service costs. Luckily, there’s an alternative: quartz. Quartz chronograph movements circumvent those two major shortfalls, allowing for greater reliability and reduced cost. With that, here are some of our favorite affordable chronographs for beginners. Should you see anything you like, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. When time really counts - whether you’re speeding around a race track, plotting a navigational course, or timing the beats of a patient’s heart - you need a stopwatch. At one point, the function of a stopwatch was completely separate f...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Xeric Artemis Chronograph
Picture this: You’re playing Thursday night trivia and the DJ asks which watch was first worn on the moon. The softball question generates bar-wide high fives as everyone celebrates their collective awareness of Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster that forever married watches and space travel into pop culture lore. Less than a year after we took our first small steps on the moon, the Apollo 13 mission sought a return to our celestial stomping grounds. Once again, a watch stole our collective attention, this time as part of the ill fated Apollo 13 mission. The world heard the phrase “Houston, we’ve had a problem here” and held its collective breadth as the safe return of three astronauts packed into a Lunar Module 200,000 miles from earth became dependant on their ability to precisely time a 14 second burn of the module’s thrusters – a task achieved with a NASA qualified Omega Speedmaster. John F. Kennedy famously declared that we choose to go to the moon not because it is easy, but because it is hard. While nothing about the nearly tragic Apollo 13 story makes this land-loving watch nerd want to get a closer view of the stars, others feel inspired to embody Kennedy’s words and to keep pushing farther… 586 times farther, to be exact. Kicking off this exciting new phase of space travel is NASA’s Artemis Program, which will bring a new generation of astronauts to the moon with new technology to be used on the quest for Mars. The Watch Watch collectors looking to cel...
Worn & Wound
Opinion: Daniel Craig, the Olympics, and that Mystery Seamaster
Did you watch the Olympic Games over the past two weeks? There’s a good chance you did: it’s been widely reported that ratings for the Paris Games were up across the board, with upwards of 30 million people tuning in to NBC’s coverage each night across all platforms, including the Peacock streaming app, which seemed to finally find its groove this year after a clunky experience in Tokyo three years ago. Even if you didn’t catch the big events night to night, just an occasional glance at coverage would have made it crystal clear who the timing sponsor for the Olympics was. While no one doubts that the Olympics are all about the athletes, it’s an enormous event for Omega (and a slew of other Olympic corporate partners). Omega branding is everywhere, and why wouldn’t it be? Their contributions to the Olympic experience are genuinely important and factor into every timed competition. But rather than Omega’s timing prowess, another story dominated the brand’s Paris Olympic story. Last week, Daniel Craig, formerly the actor who played James Bond, currently the actor who plays Benoit Blanc, was spotted taking in the games wearing a watch that was both familiar and…not. As has been covered widely across the watch internet, Craig was photographed wearing an Omega Seamaster Professional that doesn’t currently exist in the brand’s catalog. It would appear to have a black dial and no date, a configuration that many enthusiasts would certainly be interested in. ...
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Artem Loop-less Straps, the Minimilians, and a Big Change for Southwest
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. Artem Loop-less Straps When you’re done fidgeting with traditional keeper loops on your traditional watch strap, check out Australia’s own Artem’s Loop-less range. With an innovative design to conceal excess strap length under a clasp, the series is offered for 18mm, 19mm, 20mm, 21mm, and 22mm as well as a Standard of extra small length option. Pair the strap with Artem’s 316L stainless steel Loop-less deployant clasp or a similar OEM Omega clasp for a discerning design on wrist. Loop-less is suitable for water use thanks to Artem’s signature combination of synthetic materials, silicon over the adjustment holes on the upper material married with leather base coated with a natural rubber layer, called caoutchouc for durability and comfort. Choose from sand beige, gray, khaki green, navy blue, and black for your next Loop-less in the Artem online shop today. Meet the Minimilians Have you ever thought to yourself, “I wish my watch had a corresponding action figure”? Well, if you’re lucky enough to own an MB&F;, you now have the opportunity to obtain one that will bear a...
Worn & Wound
Lorier’s Latest Release Embraces Motorcycle Culture
Lorier surprised us at the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago last week with a new release dubbed the Rambler, a collaboration with Indiana based Janus Motorcycles. For Lorier to collaborate with a motorcycle brand might not make much sense at first, but stepping back, the two brands are very much in sync. Both have a trade in classic aesthetics rooted in mid century styles, and both brands prize simplicity in design. Most of all, Janus and Lorier both place a high value on actually getting out and using their products authentically. The experiences tied to riding or the types of sporting activities you might undertake while wearing a Lorier are core to each brand, and the Rambler evokes and invites those experiences in the same way that the brand’s prior watches have been successful in doing so. The Rambler is built on the same 36mm case that will be familiar to owners of the Astra and the Falcon. Like those watches (especially the Falcon) the Rambler is inspired by the classic field watch. Something Lorier does in their marketing materials that I always appreciate is draw direct parallels to specific watches that provided inspiration in the design process, and for the Rambler they’ve cited classic field and pilot’s watches like the Rolex Oyster Imperial, Universal Geneve 20504, and the Omega 6B/159. More importantly than the specific references though, Lorier ties the Rambler to motorcycle culture through the people who would have worn those watches. These are the war ...
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Abandoned Golf Courses, a Huge Watch Auction in the UK, and Tactile Turn’s Latest Seasonal Pen Release
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com A Massive Watch Auction in the UK If you’re interested in picking up an interesting vintage (or modern) watch at a screaming value, regional auction houses are sometimes a great place to shop. UK based auction house Gardiner Houlgate is about to auction nearly 500 lots in a massive auction, and there’s almost certainly something for everyone. Scrolling through the selection is a dizzying experience as there are just so many watches to sift through, but some highlights, at a glance, include vintage Omega Rancheros, a Seiko Coutura solar chrono from the 90s, and a solid gold Chronoswiss jump hour with retrograde minutes display. Like we said, there’s a ton of variety. You can check out the catalog for yourself here before bidding opens next week. When Golf Courses Go Wild There’s something inherently peaceful about a golf course. Golf is a quiet game and a perfectly manicured course provides for a zen-like, meditative atmosphere. It’s rare, though, to see a course in anything but tip-top shape. The New York Times has an interesting story this week about golf courses that hav...
SJX Watches
A Master Gunsmith Makes a Watch by Hand
Based in Pennsylvania, Dewey Vicknair is a respected gunsmith who specialises in restoring rifles and shotguns, and has been doing so for decades, gaining an esteemed reputation in the process. Now in his mid-fifties, he is also a self-taught watchmaker who has been performing watch servicing on the side. Recently Mr Vicknair made the leap from fixing watches to making one. Mr Vicknair explained the genesis of his first watch: “When I saw your stories about Atelier de Chronometrie and what they do with vintage Omega movements, I was inspired.” His inaugural creation is a hand-wound wristwatch of his own making, literally. Although the movement started out as a 1950s Omega cal. 266, Mr Vicknair reworked majority of it and made many parts from scratch, including the going train bridge, as he did for the case, dial, and even the gasket for the crown tube. Because he made most of the parts himself, Mr Vicknair had to fabricate the equipment required to make the parts, including a cutter for the gasket and a screw holder for black polishing. He even did the silver plating of the movement parts himself. It is an unexpected accomplishment for a first-time watchmaker. Initial thoughts Ordinarily I would be sceptical of an unknown watchmaker seeking publicity for a new project with a five-figure price tag. But a few things changed my mind. One was seeing Mr Vicknair’s unusually thorough documentation of his production process, which is almost entirely manual – even the mach...
Time+Tide
The Citizen Tsuki-yomi A-T makes moonphases actually feel important
Mechanical precision moonphases, step aside - this Citizen has one adjusted by an atomic clock.The post The Citizen Tsuki-yomi A-T makes moonphases actually feel important appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Garrett Jones
Editor’s Note: In this week’s installment of our ongoing “3 for 5k” series, reader Garrett Jones submits an affordable collection with cleanly defined categories for each piece. While the classic Speedmaster might not fit everyone’s definition of a “dress watch,” in the context of Garrett’s collection, it makes a lot of sense. These are all sporty and robust watches perfect for an active lifestyle, they just get to that place in different ways, making each well suited to specific circumstances. Garrett had some money left over after picking three watches, so he’s also selected an additional item in a category many would agree is adjacent to watches, and somehow makes Garrett’s watch picks even more logical. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Being an avid collector and watch enthusiast, owning only three watches excites and scares me simultaneously. In a world where my watch collection would be limited to three pieces, the perfect collection would feature the following three styles: a dress watch, a travel watch, and an everyday workhorse. With that three-piece combination, you can dress for any occasion and have a watch that fits in anywhere. At first, I thought that a budget of $5,000 would be extremely restrictive, but I quickly realized that one of the best ways to stretch this money is by looking at pre-owned watches. Omega Speedmaster Ref. 3570.50 ~$3,700 – The Dr...
Worn & Wound
Gen-Z Has Discovered Snoopy, But Watch Collectors Got Here First
Snoopy of ‘Peanuts’ fame has flown planes in World War I, gone to space, and been a baseball star-now he’s taken on a new role as a fashion and lifestyle icon for Gen Zers. In a viral moment that has come upon us rather unexpectedly (as these things always do) members of a younger generation seem to have discovered the iconic beagle all at once. Thanks to his worldly, casual confidence and enormous puffy coat, Snoopy has reached a level of popularity he probably hasn’t seen since ‘Peanuts’ was in print. To which the watch community says: welcome aboard the Snoopy train, we’ve been here for quite some time. For all the new Snoopy fans out there, here’s a brief rundown of the history of the relationship between comics’ most famous dog and the watch industry, along with some of the best Snoopy watches you can pick up. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Ouch, Right In The Childhood (@ouchrightinthechildhood) Snoopy has graced the dials of watches since the 1950s, but his popularity among watch nerds has skyrocketed (pun intended, you’ll see in a second) since Omega featured him on the Speedmaster for the first time in 2003 in recognition of the watch brand being award NASA’s Silver Snoopy Award. The award was given in recognition of the key role the Apollo 13 astronauts’ Speedmasters played in the calculations they made to get home safely. The backstory for the watch, the difficulty in obtaining one of these limited edition pieces, a...
Worn & Wound
Shinola Introduces the Bronze Monster GMT, with a Brown Fumé Dial
One of the most interesting developments in the collector community over the past few years is the emergence of Shinola, and their acceptance in enthusiast circles. It’s no secret that Shinola hasn’t always been widely praised by the most discerning and hardcore enthusiasts, but a series of more restrained releases (along with some that are just the right level of wacky – remember the square cased, yellow dialed Mackinac yacht timer?) has bought them some goodwill with new audiences. A new GMT in bronze would seem to capitalize on multiple trends in the enthusiast simultaneously. Part of the Monster collection, the aptly named Bronze Monster is a 40mm GMT equipped sports watch with a robust appearance and 100 meters of water resistance. The aesthetic feels aviation inspired, which makes sense given the GMT complication, although unfortunately this is a “caller” style GMT without an independently set local hour hand (it runs on a Sellita SW 330). Still, it’s attractive, and feels lush in bronze with a matching brown fumé dial. Fence post hands oversized Arabic numerals reveal that legibility was of primary importance to the design team on this reference. The case has gentle, curvy lines at the lugs, and the key visual impression of the Bronze Monster outside the dial is the 24 hour bezel, also in bronze, with numerals in relief. It’s a striking look that reminds me of watches that the collector community has praised, like Omega’s “Nekton” Seamaster ...
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – JT
Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader JT takes us through watches from his own personal collection, purchased largely on the pre-owned market for under $5,000. This real-life 3 for 5k is also thematically coherent, to say the least, with a trio of white dialed sports watches that cover a lot of ground, and somehow work well together as a thoughtful, wearable collection that features an indie favorite, a hot collaboration, and an uncommon example of a classic chronograph. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Omega Speedmaster Reduced “Marui” (3510.20) – $3,000 This was the watch that started it all. I have a small wrist (6.25″), and I love white objects (Kenya Hara’s book, “White,” resides next to my white camera collection). I fell in love with the Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project, and after lots of research and patience, I decided I wanted a Speedmaster Reduced, and subsequently secured this Speedmaster for a very reasonable price. Image courtesy Bob’s Watches It didn’t come with a bracelet, but it actually worked in my favor because I wanted to pair it with a flat link (AKA Ed White) bracelet anyway, so it helped me bring the cost of the watch lower (an OEM 1469/811 is worth at least $500). Seiko x Rowing Blazers 5 Sports – $500 After spending way too much time doing my research, “buying the seller,” and reading forums to check my work, the inte...
![[VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/11/Oris_AquisPro_WEB_5.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M
Oris has a seriously capable modern diver on their hands with the Aquis. What’s more, they’ve created an original design that’s easily associated with the brand in the process. Oris have dabbled into more niche diver territory with things like the Aquis Depth Gauge, but never into extreme realms. Until now, that is. This year, Oris has upgraded the Aquis Pro from a 1000M diver, to a 4000M diver. The change doesn’t make much practical difference for most of us, but adds a heap of bragging rights to the Aquis name as it joins some elite company in the world of ultra-deep divers. The new Aquis Pro is a statement from Oris, and places the watch within a unique niche of the dive acth genre in the process. Ultra deep dive watches are a strange breed. Not only are they tricky to design and build, they’re also quite hard to pressure test properly without highly specialized equipment. We’ve seen brands go as far as building their own apparatus to validate depth ratings, particularly as they go beyond 3,000 meters, or 10,000 feet. In the case of the deepest divers, like the Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep and the Rolex Deepsea Challenge, which both go well beyond 10,000 meters, or 30,000 feet, pressure testing is rigorous and complex, and can even involve real world validation strapped to the exterior of vessels traveling to the depths of the sea. $6200 [VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M Case Titanium Movement Oris caliber 400 Dial Blue wave degrade L...
Worn & Wound
A Week In Watches, Episode 63: Geneva Watch Days Special
In the special edition of A Week In Watches, Zach Weiss and Blake Buettner sit down together to discuss some of the most interesting new releases from Geneva Watch Days, and more. From blacked out Doxas, to kind of blue De Bethunes, and a Eucalyptus Ressence, there were plenty of new watches to appreciate, including the joint Only Watch submission from H. Moser and MB&F;. You can view more of our Geneva Watch Days coverage right here, and keep an eye out for more yet to come. Geneva Watch Days didn’t give us the only new releases last week, though. One of the biggest surprises, and a welcome one at that, was the new Seiko ‘Alpinist’ GMT Prospex references, which brings their 6R54 GMT caliber into the beloved field watch collection. It makes a whole lot of sense in this platform, even if it is a ‘caller’ style GMT, so we’re thrilled to see it makes its way over. This episode of A Week In Watches is sponsored by our friends at Shinola. To commemorate 10 years of American design and manufacturing, Shinola Detroit is proud to share this video that reveals the company and its employees as a team that can carve a distinct pathway forward with their own sense of, as they say, “timeless American design.” This cinematic video gives an insider glimpse of their watchmakers assembling timepieces, soaring views of the Detroit headquarters, and shares perspective on the past decade as well as Shinola’s aims for the future. Learn more about Shinola’s Timeless American ...
![[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Divers That Break From Convention](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/08/Blake_dive_group_001.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Divers That Break From Convention
The dive watch genre is rife with great watches, and many stick to a tried and true formula that was first devised in the early ‘50s with the advent of recreational diving. It’s evolved a bit over the generations, but what made for a great dive watch then, largely still makes for a great dive watch today. Their broad popularity stretches far beyond the bounds of the actual diving community, as the features that make a great dive watch also happen to make them great everyday companions for those that prefer life on dry land. But that doesn’t mean they all have to abide by the same set of rules. In this Inside the Collection episode, I take a look at 3 dive watches that march to the beat of their own drum in some way, shape, or form, and eschew the established design codes of the genre. You’re probably familiar with one or two of these watches, as we’ve discussed two of them at length before (here, and here), but all three come together to say something important about my own collection, and how I view watches regardless of their label. The Omega Seamaster 300 reference 2231.50.00 seen here will be the subject of an upcoming Missed Review, in which we’ll further explore this era of the famous diver, and some of the ways the collection has diversified itself over the generation. This is watch that’s always found it’s own path, for better or worse, and not only does this specific reference represent something special within the collection, it represents somet...
Worn & Wound
Introducing the Arcus Exos – a New Direction for the Canadian Startup
I enjoy rooting for the underdog. This has, perhaps, been an underlying theme at Worn & Wound. It’s just too easy to always always be in the stands for the big brands that everyone likes and are really at no risk of failing (though, tbh, we do that plenty too). So, when a young brand comes around that is doing something interesting but perhaps to no fanfare, I take notice. Such was the case with Arcus Watches from Calgary, Canada. In 2021 I stumbled across a post of theirs on Instagram, as these things tend to happen these days, and knew I had to dig in more. The watch, called the Tropos, was nice enough looking, but what caught my eye was that it was a monopusher chronograph with a sub $1k price tag. In order to achieve this, Arcus, for their first watch, modified Seagull ST1901 movements with in-house components. I’m still impressed by that. Check out the review here. The Tropos The Mesos They followed the Tropos with the Mesos, which took the modifications one step further. In addition to being an ST19-based monopusher, they re-jiggered the mechanism to just start, and reset, but with the ability to hold before release, like a vintage Omega Chronostop. The idea is that you start the chrono and when you finish the activity, you hit and hold the button again, recording your time. Then you release to zero it out. Novel if perhaps not very useful, but the fact that they made it in-house is what really impressed me. Even more so, they only charged $599 for it. Read the M...
Worn & Wound
Review: the Atelier Holgur Frømand
One of the great things about the current state of the watch world is the insane variety of watches that are available. We’re at a point (or at least approaching one) where brands of all stripes are willing to get creative in ways we haven’t seen in years. We’ve come out of a long period of time dominated by vintage inspired watches that all felt cut from the same cloth, and it feels like we’re now at the beginning of a new movement where makers large and small are aiming for narrower and narrower niches. I’m lucky to have seen some of the watches coming from brands we all admire later in the year, and I’m confident that when the dust settles we’ll be talking about a sea change toward more adventurous designs and a level of watchmaking once reserved for the super wealthy being made accessible to new customers for the first time. This is why I’m more interested than ever in the micro indies I’ve discussed in these pages previously. It feels like there’s a nearly infinite opportunity for brands to create special, unusual, innovative, and original watches for an audience that’s simultaneously incredibly broad and highly specialized. There’s no shortage of collectors interested in getting something unique – a byproduct of the aforementioned decade of lookalike black dialed divers. And yet, each individual watch forces you to ask, “Who is this for?” That’s a question that most of us wonder everytime we look at an MB&F; or De Bethune, and the answe...
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Eric L.
Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, long time reader Eric L. shares their trio of watches, which include a brand I had to Google to discover. This is a collection motivated not by hype, but by enthusiasm alone so hat’s off to Eric for this selection. Bonos points for one of the coolest G-Shocks in existence. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. Header image credit: Analog:Shift Long time listener, first time caller. NATO’s are great…always. Full Stop…no question. Keep up the good work folks. Omega Speedmaster MKII Racing – $4,000 It’s a Speedmaster, but you didn’t type in “best watch algorithm” in the Google Machine to find out which Speedy you should buy (It’s the Professional Moonwatch…it went to the moon, but Omega rarely talks about it). Plus, everyone knows that the 70’s racing scene was so funky and lit that it deserves more credit that it receives. Funky case, orange highlights, tach ring under the glass…it’s just better than the Moonwatch in all respects, and I’ll fight anyone who says otherwise. Scared of vintage watches? Get the reissue with a co-axial movement that’s COSC certified. Elliott Brown Houlton Professional – $550 Analog watches are a thing of the past you say? All soldiers, sailors, airmen, and marines need are G-Shocks and Timex Ironman watches, you say? Well my brothers and sisters in the UK’s Special Boat ...
Worn & Wound
Sinn Goes Full Titanium and Bronze with New T50 Dive Watch
Sinn has released a new midsize diver with some big time specs to kick off their 2023 releases with the new T50. This is a watch that may seem familiar at a glance, as a follow up to the popular U50 released in 2020, but there’s plenty new here to set plenty of distance between the two, the biggest of which are the use of new materials, which include titanium and a new Sinn developed alloy called Goldbronze. This is a proprietary material that boasts some unique features in the service of longevity and functionality in true Sinn fashion. It looks pretty good, too. The T50 arrives in three main configurations, going from full Goldbronze in a limited edition 125, to a mix of titanium and Goldbronze in the GBDR, and finally a fully titanium example that forgoes the use of Goldbronze altogether. All look to share the same mid case design and proportions of the 41mm U50, which is a very good thing (see our review of the U50 here). This rather svelte and wearable package gets a remarkably stout 500 meter depth rating, and with the T50 adds Sinn’s Ar‑Dehumidifying inside the bottom left lug. The dial and bezel present the biggest departure from the U50 design language, departing from the brutal blocky design of the hands and hour markers in favor of a more approachable look that utilizes bar shaped hour markers and a pair of broadsword hands. The look may be more palatable to those who found the U50 a touch too aggressive, however it comes at the expense of a distinctivel...
SJX Watches
Insight: Daniels’ Co-Axial Escapement, an Evolution of the Fasoldt Chronometer
In the quest for precision chronometry in a mechanical watch, perhaps no other component is as crucial as the escapement – often consisting of an escape wheel and lever that engage with the oscillating organ. The history of watchmaking recounts many an attempt at inventing a better-performing escapement, with some attempts naturally more successful than others. By the 20th century, the watch industry had settled upon the Swiss lever escapement, which has proven itself to be a reasonably solid performer and crucially, one fit for mass production. However, in the latter decades of the century, one English watchmaker attempted to challenge the industry status quo. In 1974, George Daniels invented the “co-axial escapement”, a seemingly novel and practical escapement of his own design that was conceived as an functionally superior alternative to the Swiss lever escapement. Daniels’ invention fulfilled his ambition, at least in part, when it was sold to Omega and then successfully industrialised starting in 1999; today it is found in hundreds of thousands of movements that Omega produces each year. The latest iteration of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is kitted out with the co-axial escapement With the merits of the co-axial escapement having been proven in part by its large-scale adoption, my aim here is not to examine its intrinsic qualities, but rather delve into its development. Specifically I will explore the fact that the co-axial escapement might not be an ent...
Time+Tide
5 of the best watches worn by women on-screen
There’s no shortage of great timepieces in film and television, from the Rolexes and Omegas of the James Bond films (featuring a slate of deadly accoutrements), to the Speedmaster worn by Tom Hanks in Apollo 13, but what about the wristwear of women on-screen? It’s out there if you’re looking, and there’s a lot to … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best watches worn by women on-screen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value to a whole new level with the Black Sector Mechanical 2116-A
It is quite fitting Furlan Marri decided to name their collections “stories”. Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al Marri knew from the outset they had many stories they wanted to tell. And by stories, I mean an effort to carefully roll out different horological visions, or chapters, with the goal of shaking up the notion of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value to a whole new level with the Black Sector Mechanical 2116-A appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Richard Mille RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth: now in new 2021 livery
Richard Mille presents a new 80 limited pieces edition, the RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth.
SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Skull One
Chopard has loosened up its strictly formal, ultra-thin dress watch with recent launches like the collaboration with tailor Kiton. Launched during Mexican watch fair Salón Internacional Alta Relojería México (SIAR), the L.U.C Skull One continues the theme – a slim, black-coated case and the dial decorated with a motif inspired by Día de Muertos, the Mexican festival that celebrates the dearly departed. Initial thoughts The Skull One is not the first Chopard dressed in a calavera, a decorated depiction of the skull used during Día de Muertos, or Day of the Dead. Two years ago, once again for SIAR, Chopard decked out its top-of-the-line L.U.C perpetual calendar with tourbillon in Day of the Dead decor that was hand engraved on the dial and case. But compared to that one-off creation (and also the similarly-themed De Bethune DW5), the Skull One is most pared back in style and also in price. Priced just shy of US$10,000, the Skull One is well priced for a wristwatch powered by a sophisticated, in-house movement that has an elaborately printed dial. And just as importantly, the watch is well designed – the skull motif works well with everything else. The look is coherently put together, with most of the elements done in shades of black and grey – even the case back crystal is tinted grey – but accented with rose gold markers and hands. Simple yet effective While obvious at a glance, the dial is thoughtful in its details. The motif is set apart from the b...
SJX Watches
RJ Introduces the Arraw Spider-Man Tourbillon
Though RJ has long used pop culture icons – from Hello Kitty to Pokemon to Super Mario – on its watches, the Arraw Spider-Man Tourbillon is the most interesting to date, because it’s powered by a newly developed movement boasting a central flying tourbillon and a six-day power reserve. While earlier RJ cartoon- or comic-inspired were mostly standard watches with design tweaks, the new tourbillon modelled on Marvel’s web-slinger is mechanically interesting on several levels. The Arraw Spider-Man Tourbillon is powered by the RJ-7000, a hand-wound movement that, according to the brand, was developed in-house at its recently opened manufacture in Eysins, about 30 minutes from downtown Geneva. More notably is the fact that the concept of the movement was first developed by RJ chief executive Marco Tedeschi while he was studying micro-technical engineering at the École Technique de la Vallée de Joux (ETVJ). Central tourbillon The movement is fully skeletonised, with the large flying tourbillon sitting right in the centre. Though conventional tourbillons are extremely common, central tourbillons are notably uncommon. Only a few brands produce them, most notably Omega and Beat Haldimann, and now RJ. Open-worked to resemble a spider’s web, the tourbillon cage is made of titanium, and sits just over a pair of eyes taken from Spider-Man’s mask. Because the tourbillon sits right in the centre of the dial, the hands are are peripheral, sitting on the edge of the dial, b...
SJX Watches
Introducing the Trilobe Les Matinaux
Jean-François Mojon, founder of complications specialist Chronode, has a client list that reads like a who’s who of independent watchmaking: from establishment names Hermès and MB&F; to revived brands like Urban Jurgensen. His latest creation, however, is one of the most affordable to date. Constructed for Trilobe, a start-up founded just three years ago by former banker Gautier Massonneau. The brand’s first collection, Les Matinaux – “The Morning” in English – derives its name from a poem written by French author René Char. Novelty aside Built at Chronode’s Le Locle facility, Les Matinaux is designed to subvert traditional time-telling. Instead of conventional fixed indices and moving hands, the hands, or rather pointers, are fixed but the markers – on three separate chapter rings for the hours, minutes and seconds – are constantly in motion, and rotate counter-clockwise to boot. The concept is not entirely new, of course. This type of time display is most often used on digital-style dials with numerals shown either in a single line or within a window, as on the De Bethune Dream Watch 5. Affordable brands have done the same with quartz movements, including Klokers, which is sadly now defunct, as well as Lip with its Mythic Jump Hour Watch. In contrast, Les Matinaux does not have its indicators arranged in a linear manner. Instead, the trio of trefoils – trilobe is French for trefoil – seem casually scattered across the dial, so i...