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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.
In-Depth: Rolex Land-Dweller SJX Watches
Rolex Land-Dweller Mar 31, 2025

In-Depth: Rolex Land-Dweller

The most discussed debut of Watches & Wonders 2025, the Rolex Land-Dweller is an entirely new model with a new case and bracelet, but that’s not why it is significant. While Rolex is conventionally associated with incremental innovation, the Land-Dweller is game changing. Not because of the design, but because it’s equipped with perhaps the ultimate mechanical movement produced at scale in contemporary watchmaking, a calibre that’s the subject of 16 patents. (The finer technical details can be found in our accompanying story.) The cal. 7135 inside the Land-Dweller is a new, sophisticated calibre equipped with an indirect-impulse, double-wheel escapement that’s entirely in silicon – christened Dynapulse – matched with a ceramic balance pivot. And it’s a high-frequency calibre running at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. Cumulatively, that makes for a superior timekeeper on the wrist. The Land-Dweller debuts in two sizes, 36 mm and 40 mm, in three basic variants: white Rolesor, Everose gold, and platinum. There are also a handful of high-jeweller versions. The Land-Dweller in white Rolesor on Roger Federer’s wrist. Image – Rolex Initial thoughts The Land-Dweller is both surprising and predictable. The styling is surprising; the integrated bracelet echoes historical watches like the Oysterquartz and ref. 5100 Beta 21 but I never expected it. The Land-Dweller looks and feels surprising for a Rolex Oyster. At 9.7 mm it’s the slimmest Oyster Perpetual in the cat...

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Ulysse Nardin Debuts Lightest Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Debuts Lightest Diver’s Watch Mar 31, 2025

Ulysse Nardin Debuts Lightest Diver’s Watch

At Watches & Wonders 2025, Ulysse Nardin is taking the covers off the lightest ever mechanical dive watch, the Diver [Air]. Weighing only 52 grams, strap included, UN’s newest diver is unexpected and impressive in a number of ways.  Initial thoughts UN’s engineers have succeeded in marrying lightness with utility in the Diver Air. The case, strap, and the movement in particular, have all been developed to carry as little weight as possible - without compromising structural reliability. At 52 g with the strap, and 46 g without, the Diver Air weighs about as much as 10 sheets of A4 paper. Impressive as it is, however, the Diver Air doesn’t really look the part, which is arguably its biggest weakness. Visually the Diver Air is almost undistinguishable from the standard Diver X Skeleton, which is a shame given that this is entirely different. The result is a missed opportunity in creating something that looks like what it is, an ultra-light performance watch.  The movement, however, looks good in a contemporary manner, with clear sapphire jewels and a clean, industrial finish. The seven grams UN-374 movement At the core of this ultra-light diver lies an in-house movement engineered for both lightness and sturdiness - the UN-374, with 90% recycled titanium bridges. The UN-374 only weighs a staggering 7 g and yet can run for 90 hours on a full wind at a 3 Hz frequency. Based off Diver X Skeleton’s UN-372, the new UN-374 was tweaked to keep its structural stability ...

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Introducing – The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 Jumping Hour 25th-Anniversary Edition Monochrome
Gerald Charles Mar 31, 2025

Introducing – The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 Jumping Hour 25th-Anniversary Edition

The Gerald Charles brand was founded by the legendary designer Gérald Genta in 2000, with backing from the Zivani family. After the designer’s death in 2011, Federico Zivani set about reviving the brand and has since created a solid collection of watches around the idiosyncratic yet immediately recognisable Maestro case. Celebrating 25 years of the […]

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Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition Fratello
Gerald Charles Mar 31, 2025

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition

In celebration of its quarter-century anniversary, Gerald Charles presents the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition. This is a jump-hour watch with an in-house-designed caliber. Naturally, the new timepiece features the brand’s signature baroque case shape, but it is fully modernized with Grade 5 titanium construction. We’ve covered the majority of new releases from Gerald Charles […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition to read the full article.

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Introducing – The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Black Edition in Steel Monochrome
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Mar 28, 2025

Introducing – The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Black Edition in Steel

Armin Strom is a revered name among horophiles, an independent brand acclaimed for rekindling the spirit of resonance in wristwatches. Last year, Armin Strom introduced its 18th in-house movement – calibre ARF22 – with the white gold Dual Time GMT Resonance with impressive mechanics and finishings on both sides of the case. Offering two independent […]

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Introducing: The Maen × Nico Leonard Jump Hour Fratello
Maen Mar 27, 2025

Introducing: The Maen × Nico Leonard Jump Hour

Late last year, I had the opportunity to go hands-on with the Maen collection for the first time. I’d heard of the brand but had only seen photographs. I was highly impressed with the case finishing, dials, and bracelets. Best of all, the watches felt far more expensive than their price tags suggested. With today’s […] Visit Introducing: The Maen × Nico Leonard Jump Hour to read the full article.

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First Look – The More Compact Norqain Wild One Skeleton 39mm Monochrome
Norqain Wild One Skeleton 39mm Mar 27, 2025

First Look – The More Compact Norqain Wild One Skeleton 39mm

Ben Kuffer, the CEO of Norqain, is lucky to have industry heavyweight Jean-Claude Biver on his advisory board. Thanks to Biver’s valuable input, Norqain introduced its high-performance Wild One sports watch collection in 2022. Featuring an innovative carbon fibre composite case with a rubber shock absorber padding the titanium movement container, the Wild One is […]

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[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Citizen Promaster Navihawk 40 Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Navihawk 40 Citizen- Mar 26, 2025

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Citizen Promaster Navihawk 40

Citizen- it’s a brand name loaded with connotations for many enthusiasts. For me, before I knew that watches were something you could be enthusiastic about, it represented a significant step up from the Casios and Fossils I wore. It was the ubiquitous display case filled with somewhat flashy and easily recognizable watches that I was drawn to when visiting the mall as a teenager, yet was completely out of reach for my weekend job at Taco Bell budget. Though phrases like “wrist presence” and “over engineered” weren’t in my high school vocabulary, if I asked my past self what drew me to these often-oversized watches, I’d probably find a less articulate way to describe these characteristics. These days, as a budget conscious enthusiast with thankfully a bit more cash than my Taco Bell days, my views on the brand have evolved. I now associate it with attainable prices that punch above their price point and a versatile and extensive catalog that has been embraced by general consumers and enthusiasts alike. In a landscape where many brands are moving up market and MSRPs are seemingly tracking egg prices, it’s easy to see why Citizen has become the default choice for many collectors seeking value driven iconic designs in the sub $1000 (and often considerably less) category. While some Citizen models such as the Promaster line of dive watches and the integrated bracelet Tsuyosa have been accepted with open hearts and empty wrists in enthusiast circles, others with ...

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New: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer Deployant
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer Mar 26, 2025

New: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer

The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer brings a fresh dimension to the Planet Ocean series, combining the robustness of a professional dive watch with the practicality of a worldtimer complication. Featuring a striking black ceramic case and a visually detailed dial that includes a laser-ablated Earth map, it caters to travelers and adventurers alike. The new additions come in two colors.

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The Hunt For Shapes: Settling On A Vintage Longines Fratello
Longines Finding Mar 26, 2025

The Hunt For Shapes: Settling On A Vintage Longines

Finding the right watch that doesn’t have a classic, round case is trickier than I anticipated. You see, recently, I have been pursuing an option for my collection that doesn’t adhere to the case shape most of us start with. Hurrah for vintage Longines coming to the rescue! The round watch case is practically synonymous […] Visit The Hunt For Shapes: Settling On A Vintage Longines to read the full article.

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A Voutilainen KV20i Reversed in Frosted Gilt for GMT Milano SJX Watches
Voutilainen Mar 26, 2025

A Voutilainen KV20i Reversed in Frosted Gilt for GMT Milano

An Italian retailer best known for representing independent watchmakers, GMT Milano has just announced its own Voutilainen limited edition, the KV20i Reversed GMT Milano. Based on Voutilainen’s inverted Vingt-8, the KV20i GMT edition sports a 4N gold-gilt movement that stands in bright contrast with the titanium case. The combination is classical and brings to mind historical pocket watches with frosted gilt movements. Initial thoughts The KV20i for GMT Milano employs a familiar combination of colours and finishes, but it stills manages to look fresh enough to be interesting. It helps that Voutilainen’s quality is impeccable, so everything that brand produces possesses a sheen that adds to the appeal, regardless of colour or style. A good part of Voutilainen’s business is customised watches, so the GMT edition isn’t unique per se. But it is a good looking watch that is instantly appealing. This KV20i is also priced the same as a standard version from Voutilainen, so it’s also a fair proposition in value terms. A reversed watch The KV20i is the second generation of Voutilainen’s “reverse” model that debuted in 2019. It’s essentially an inverted version of the Vingt-8, the brand’s signature chronometer wristwatch. The calibre has been turned over so that most of the action is on the front. The balance wheel, barrel, and going train are visible on the open dial, along with the indirect going train that relocates the hands from the back to front and centre....

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Cartier Crash: The Ultimate Guide to the Oddball Icon Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Mar 19, 2025

Cartier Crash: The Ultimate Guide to the Oddball Icon

As the enduring popularity of pre-worn and “distressed” denim should prove, fashion sometimes embraces wear and tear, or at least the illusion of such, as a bold stylistic statement. The phenomenon can also occasionally be found, albeit perhaps less overtly, in the world of watches. Consider the fascinating case of the Cartier Crash, a watch whose wildly unconventional, “banged-up” shape has made it not just a curiosity but one of the world’s most collectible timepieces - a quirky icon from a watchmaker with no shortage of iconic designs to its credit. The Crash has been around, mostly floating along the periphery of the watch-industry mainstream, since the 1960s, in various iterations, and while it has never achieved the household-name popularity of Cartier watches like the Tank and Santos, it has also never really gone out of style, either. Here is a primer on the Cartier Crash, and perhaps even a little insight on how it has stayed relevant in the marketplace, nearly six decades after its debut. Photo: Bonhams Let’s start at the beginning, with one of the main sources of the Crash’s multigenerational appeal, its decidedly lurid and now-debunked origin story. As legend had it, the Crash’s curvy, bent case design was inspired by a fatal automobile accident: the owner of a Cartier Baignoire Allongé - an oval-cased watch, example above - was wearing it when he perished in a fiery car crash (hence the name) and the watch, once recovered from the wrecka...

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The Entry-Level Urwerk UR-101 Gets the T-Rex Treatment SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-101 Gets Mar 19, 2025

The Entry-Level Urwerk UR-101 Gets the T-Rex Treatment

Modelled on the first-ever Urwerk wristwatch, the UR-101 T-Rex is the independent watchmaker’s latest entry-level model. Priced at CHF38,000 before taxes, or about US$43,000, the UR-101 combines the brand’s signature wandering hours display with an aged bronze case finished with a scale-like guilloche. Initial thoughts Urwerk doesn’t do vintage-inspired watches often, and when it does the result is restyled enough to make it clearly modern. This is in keeping with the brand founders’ ethos, which looks forward rather than back. That’s the case with the UR-101 T-Rex. Though it takes the same form as the vintage original, it’s recognisable as a new creation. The vintage-inspired concept is appealing, as is the sub-US$50,000 price. While I like the idea of a revival, I find the “T-Rex” pattern a bit too aggressive. A polished finish that replicates the original would have been unimaginative, but more subtle engine turning would be an interesting counterpoint to the avant-garde style of the watch. That said, since the UR-101 is a limited edition of 100 pieces, I can safely assume that new variants are planned for the future. The tab on the back releases the crown to set the time Vintage inspired The new UR-101 is Urwerk’s second historically-inspired watch after the UR-102 “Reloaded” of 2023 that was similarly based on the brand’s early creations. Like its predecessor, the UR-101 retains the form of the vintage original, but is scaled up to 41 mm wide ...

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Hands On Review Of The Cartier Panthère de Cartier WatchAdvice
Cartier Panthère de Cartier I Mar 19, 2025

Hands On Review Of The Cartier Panthère de Cartier

I took the Panthère de Cartier in 18K yellow gold for review, and from the moment I held it, the watch’s elegance and refinement were undeniable. Cartier has once again proven that true luxury isn’t about complexity—it’s about timeless design, effortless wearability, and an unmistakable presence on the wrist. What We Love: The timepiece has a well-balanced design that sits elegantly on the wrist. The white dial perfectly complements the gold case, bezel and bracelet. The gold model, as expected, gives a more luxury appeal compared to the other variants of the timepiece and has a shine that is hard to take your eyes away from! What We Don’t: Lack of micro-adjustment on the bracelet for a better snug fit. Due to the highly polished finish of the gold, the timepiece is prone to scratching While the gold is stunning on the wrist, it doesn’t offer the same versatility as the steel for everyday wear. Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Cartier is renowned for crafting timepieces that strike the perfect balance between subtle elegance and distinctive flair, allowing them to stand out without being overtly flashy. The brand’s mastery lies in its use of unconventional shapes and design elements that enhance a watch’s character without overpowering its essence. The Panthère de Cartier is a perfect example of this philosophy—its design is simple and refined, yet beneath its understated appearance...

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Introducing: The Chronoswiss Pulse One Sand And Blue Fratello
Chronoswiss Mar 18, 2025

Introducing: The Chronoswiss Pulse One Sand And Blue

Chronoswiss has been on an absolute tear over the past year with novel case designs and movements. Today, the transformative roll-out continues with the most distinct releases yet. The Pulse One models introduce an entirely new integrated case and bracelet design. I’ve been keenly paying attention to the rebirth of Chronoswiss. The brand has introduced […] Visit Introducing: The Chronoswiss Pulse One Sand And Blue to read the full article.

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Seiko Refines the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph SJX Watches
Seiko Refines Mar 17, 2025

Seiko Refines the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph

One of the flagship high-tech analogue watches in Seiko’s catalogue, the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph has been reworked to give it visual elements more typically associated with Seiko’s higher-end mechanical watches. Amongst other things, the new Astron GPS chronograph features a sapphire-covered bezel, diamond-milled chapter rings, and facetted case details. It still retains the multi-function 5X83 movement that features GPS time- and time zone setting, perpetual calendar, and a six month power reserve on a full charge. Initial thoughts Someone recently asked me to recommend a useful watch for a person who has no interest in mechanical timepieces, with the condition that the watch has to be analogue and not look like a gadget. The Astron GPS chronograph fits the bill. The model’s newest iterations, four in all, have the styling details of a mechanical watch while having a multitude of high-tech features. One of its most useful features is the GPS time setting, which means the watch syncs with a GPS satellite and then displays the local time zone when travelling. The black and blue dial versions are especially restrained and well suited as a low-key everyday watch, though still a little large at over 44 mm in diameter. Useful watchmaking When sunlight is detected, the Astron GPS chronograph syncs with a GPS satellite automatically up to twice a day, while manual syncing can be done via a pusher in the case. Sunlight also powers the watch – under the dial ...

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Hands-On With Two Orient Bambino LEs Celebrating The Brand’s 75th Anniversary Fratello
Casio n Mar 15, 2025

Hands-On With Two Orient Bambino LEs Celebrating The Brand’s 75th Anniversary

The Orient Bambino was many watch hobbyists’ first mechanical timepiece. Its classic looks punch much higher than its affordable price point, and the exhibition case back tickles the hearts of many new enthusiasts. This year, Orient celebrates its 75th anniversary. For that occasion, the Japanese watch manufacturer introduced two limited-edition models of the Bambino with […] Visit Hands-On With Two Orient Bambino LEs Celebrating The Brand’s 75th Anniversary to read the full article.

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MB&F;’s Affordable Editions Continue with the M.A.D.2 Eric Giroud SJX Watches
MB&F; ’s Affordable Editions Continue Mar 14, 2025

MB&F;’s Affordable Editions Continue with the M.A.D.2 Eric Giroud

Echoing its own contrasting approach to design, MB&F; is growing its affordable M.A.D. Editions with the addition of the more conventional M.A.D.2. Conceived by Eric Giroud, a longtime designer who designed the very first MB&F; watch, the M.A.D.2 has a 42 mm round case that contains a self-winding movement with a bidirectional jumping hour. Modelled on a DJ’s turntable, the M.A.D.2 debuts in two variants. Orange is available only to MB&F; owners, otherwise known as “The Tribe”, as well as “Friends”, associates and partners of the brand. Green will be available to the public and sold via an online raffle as was the case for earlier M.A.D. Editions. Initial thoughts Two things stand out about the M.A.D.2. One is that it’s a fairly conventional round watch, as opposed to the more exotic style of the M.A.D.1. This is a logical evolution of the affordable-MB&F; concept since it echoes the segmentation of MB&F;’s own catalogue between the sci-fi Horological Machines and classical Legacy Machines. The second notable aspect is that it’s Swiss made like the recent M.A.D.1S; the base movement is La Joux-Perret G101 while the jump hour module is also Swiss according to MB&F;. In contrast, the original M.A.D.1 was assembled in Switzerland with imported components, including a low-cost Miyota base movement (however, the Swiss G101 is actually based on a Miyota construction). While being “Swiss made” doesn’t make it a better watch or necessarily mean every component is m...

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Hands On Review Of The New Vacheron Constantin 222 WatchAdvice
Vacheron Constantin 222 Building Mar 13, 2025

Hands On Review Of The New Vacheron Constantin 222

Building on the success of the yellow gold 222 reissue in 2022, Vacheron Constantin started its 270th-anniversary celebration in full swing this year with the introduction of the 222 in Steel, a long-awaited addition to its Historiques collection. What We Love: Timeless design of the 222 lives on. The stunning matte blue dial does justice to this timepiece, making it even more appealing. Case and bracelet design is exceptional with modern finishes. What We Don’t: Lack of micro-adjustment on bracelet. Lack of finishing on movement (skeletonised rotor perhaps?) Water resistance of 50m could be improved to offer better assurance for daily wearability. Overall Rating: 8.95/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 In January 2025, Vacheron Constantin kicked off its 270th-anniversary celebrations in spectacular fashion with the highly anticipated release of the 222 in steel. 2025 is shaping up to be an incredible year in the watch world, with many brands celebrating their anniversaries, but none quite like Vacheron Constantin. There are only a few brands that have surpassed the 250-year anniversary mark, which, when you think about it, is quite astonishing. Vacheron Constantin is one of those brands, but even more rare is that they have been in continuous production since 1755, a feat that remains unmatched in the world of horology. Over its 270-year history, Vacheron Constantin has created some genuinely timeless watches. From the FiftyS...

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Fratello Talks: The Watches We’d Buy With €10K, €20K, And €30K Fratello
Mar 13, 2025

Fratello Talks: The Watches We’d Buy With €10K, €20K, And €30K

We would all love to have an unlimited watch budget, but that’s not the case for most of us. But that doesn’t mean we can’t have some hypothetical fun and select the watches we’d buy with €10K, €20K, and €30K. On today’s episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, RJ, and Lex run through their picks at […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Watches We’d Buy With €10K, €20K, And €30K to read the full article.

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