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Breitling Chronomat: The Complete Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Aug 29, 2025

Breitling Chronomat: The Complete Guide

The Breitling Chronomat traces its most emblematic design elements back to the relatively recent year of 1984, but the model’s roots reach much further back, to the dawn of Breitling’s role as a leading innovator of watches for pilots. On the way to becoming one of the watch world’s iconic chronograph wristwatches, the Chronomat has also been the host model for some of the most significant innovations in movement technology. Today, it remains one of Breitling’s flagship models, with an array of sizes, materials, colorways, and complications for men and ladies alike. Here is the story of the Breitling Chronomat, from its groundbreaking origins to its 21st Century revival. The Original Chronomat (1941) Breitling’s long and storied history in the arena of aviation begins in 1938, shortly before the start of World War II, with the founding of the Huit Aviation Department by third-generation company chairman Willy Breitling. Taking its numerical name “huit” from the eight-day power reserve offered by Breitling’s watches and clocks - an innovation pioneered by Willy’s grandfather Léon Breitling -  the Huit Aviation Department was devoted to making the most precise and robust onboard timekeepers for the cockpits of military planes.  Two years later, Breitling unveiled a world’s-first invention destined to make a historical impact on both watchmaking and piloting: the first timepiece equipped with a logarithmic scale on its rotating bezel that could be u...

Rolex Daytona Panda Dial Ref. 126500 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Aug 29, 2025

Rolex Daytona Panda Dial Ref. 126500 Review

The Rolex Daytona is a tricky watch to discuss these days. It’s difficult to separate the watch itself from its status as a barometer to the health of the entire second-hand market — a position that the watch itself surely never asked to be put into. Everyone has an opinion on the Daytona, and these days, those opinions seem to lean more negative due mostly to what it has come to represent. As such, it rarely gets a fair crack at an honest judgment. In fact, it’s a watch I generally shy away from discussing publicly. But I’ve always liked the Daytona, and I take pleasure in wearing mine in non-watch-enthusiast environments. That’s because, behind all the speculation and hype culture, there’s a genuinely good sports watch that’s almost never seen as such. After a year of owning the reference 126500 Rolex Daytona Panda dial introduced in 2023, and amidst a cooling second-hand market, I think it’s time to change that.  Let’s start off by confronting the reality of this watch. The MSRP of the steel Daytona Reference 126500 in either black or white dial (dark or light, in Rolex parlance) is $16,000. The same watches trade for between $27,000 and $32,000 in the open market. This is a serious discrepancy, but it does seem to have stabilized from a high point in 2021. In fact, it seems to be slowly coming down, but not nearly to a price that the watch merits, if you ask me. At its MSRP, the Daytona is a legitimately great watch, but only just. At ~$30,000, this ...

Introducing – Redesigned Inside and Out, The new Longines PrimaLuna Moonphase Automatic Monochrome
Longines PrimaLuna Moonphase Automatic Longines Aug 29, 2025

Introducing – Redesigned Inside and Out, The new Longines PrimaLuna Moonphase Automatic

Longines introduced its PrimaLuna collection of women’s watches in 2009 with a name designed to evoke the romantic nature of the Moon. However, unlike the PrimaLuna time-and-date models powered by automatic calibres, the PrimaLunas featuring moon phase complications were fitted with quartz movements that might not appeal to women who prefer mechanical movements. For 2025, […]

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh” SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh” Aug 29, 2025

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh”

With a swivelling case and unadorned back, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has long served as a canvas for miniature enamelling (or double-faced complications). The Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh” is a fine example of the art, which is almost synonymous with Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC), one of the first brands to set up an in-house enamel workshop. Originally invented as a watch for polo players – the reversible case is meant to protect the crystal – the Reverso goes back to the historical origins of the game with this set. The quartet is inspired by scenes from Shahnameh, an epic poem written one thousand years ago that recounts the origins of the Persian Empire, and also depicts the ancient game invented by Persians that is today known as polo. Specifically, the four watches reproduce illustrations from the Shahnameh commissioned by Shah Tahmasp, the second ruler of the Safavid dynasty, in the early 16th century. The four piece set comprised of (from left) ‘Siyavush Plays Polo before Afrasiyab’; ‘Faridun Tests His Sons’; ‘Saam Comes to Mount Alburz’; and ‘Rustam Pursues Akvan’. Image – Jaeger-LeCoultre Initial thoughts JLC has long reproduced historical art on the Reverso – including Monet’s Venice series of paintings last year – but the artwork was often Western or East Asian, perhaps reflecting the watchmaker’s biggest markets. The “Shahnameh” set, on the other hand, reproduces scenes from a piece of art that might be less well known in...

Review: the Héron Mirabel GMT Worn & Wound
Aug 28, 2025

Review: the Héron Mirabel GMT

I think we can all agree that watch enthusiasm is often intertwined with a bit of cosplaying. James Bond-esque fantasies of tackling adventures in go-anywhere-do-anything watches have a powerful way of convincing office-dwelling collectors such as myself that over-engineered specs are a necessity. While actual practical need for secret agent-level robustness may be minimal for most collectors (I haven’t engaged in hand to hand combat or an aquatic chase all week), the pervasiveness of often repetitive feeling GADA designs can make avoiding rugged tool watches feel like a chore. This is especially true in the microbrand arena where many brands have made the dive watch their bread and butter and seemingly the format for all other complications, including GMTs. While I’m not here to throw shade (OK, maybe just a little) at the ubiquitous and often unimaginative tool watches that clearly reign supreme for many brands and collectors alike, I would be lying if I said the recent prevalence of dress watches in my Instagram feed hasn’t provided some much welcome variety. But even in this evolving landscape as dressier designs are having a moment, as I scroll through my curated collection of microbrand inspired hashtags, most #dresswatches from small independent brands are notably void of complications beyond a date window. Canadian microbrand Héron (known for their modern approach to neo-vintage inspired tool watches since 2021) seems to have recognized this gap between for...

[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Goes Ultra-Thin with The Twelve 660 Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Goes Ultra-Thin Aug 28, 2025

[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Goes Ultra-Thin with The Twelve 660

When Christopher Ward’s The Twelve debuted a few years ago, I have to admit I was a little skeptical at first. At the time, every brand under the sun was trying to get into the integrated bracelet sports watch game, and on paper The Twelve seemed a little derivative (there were many, many comments about its resemblance to a certain integrated bracelet sports watch from a much loved indie brand). Those first watches were…exactly fine. I appreciated the execution and the price point, but they weren’t really for me – I think it was the logo inspired dial texture that didn’t quite work to my eye. But over a relatively short time, The Twelve has evolved. Lots of new colors, sizes, and dial treatments means that there’s basically a Twelve for anyone, and the watch has become an effective platform for some of Christopher Ward’s most adventurous watchmaking. Indeed, their marquee release for 2025, the C12 Loco, is based on the architecture of The Twelve. And you know what? After being around these watches at Windups and other enthusiast events, I’ve even warmed up to that dial texture. Tastes change, what can I say?  All of this is to say that The Twelve is maturing, and has been around long enough at this point to win people over who might not have been on board at the start. And that’s the environment into which Christopher Ward is releasing what seems to be to be among the most exciting watches in The Twelve collection yet, the new The Twelve 660. The name ...

Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is Lean and Green SJX Watches
Bulgari may have edged it Aug 28, 2025

Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is Lean and Green

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon was the world’s thinnest tourbillon wristwatch at launch last year. Though it’s no longer the record holder, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) Tourbillon remains as interesting and gossamer as ever – and more wearable than its ultra-thin rivals. Now the AUC Tourbillon returns in khaki green and gold livery, but Piaget understands it is not easy being green and will tailor the AUC Tourbillon to taste with its customisation program. The new AUC Tourbillon makes its debut with the matching Altiplano 910P Khaki Green that’s dressed in a darker shade of the colour, while being more affordable by multiples. Initial Thoughts Until a few months ago, the AUC Tourbillon was the thinnest tourbillon ever. While Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon from Bulgari may have edged it out by 0.15 mm earlier this year, that’s probably a distinction without a difference as the two are equally ethereal in person. The AUC Tourbillon is incredibly interesting in technical terms, and the movement hides little from view. Even the balance is flying, without an upper bridge and instead supported by ball-bearings. And the watch looks and feels like a watch, and not a credit card or bangle. Yet, and this is important, it remains durable enough to actually wear on an everyday basis, historically not always the case with extraordinarily flat watches, and even marginally water resistant. To me, the AUC Tourbillon joining Piaget’s Infinitely Person...

Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Aug 27, 2025

Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Review

As it stands, Tissot remains one of the most cost-effective and dynamic points of entry into the wild world of Swiss watches. Last week, we took a deep dive into the history of Tissot, charting its journey from its beginnings all the way back in 1853 to how the brand has adapted to the watchmaking landscape of today. We are gathered here today to plunge even more granularly into the contemporary Tissot catalog with, you guessed it, the Gentleman collection, which is among the brand’s top contenders for a one-and-done watch collection, if such a thing truly exists.  Though we’ve already taken on the subject of the Tissot Gentleman in various roundups and a couple of our videos, we, surprisingly, haven’t dedicated a standalone review to the subject. So buckle up, because all that’s about to change moving forward.  Tissot Gentleman History While I’ve already alluded to our more sweeping article on Tissot’s over-century-long legacy, it’s always necessary to chart some hot historical plot points first, so we can have a more holistic view of how the brand has arrived at the Gentleman as we know it today. The story begins in 1853 in Le Locle, Switzerland (one of the historical hearts of Swiss watchmaking), with father-son duo Charles-Félicien Tissot and Charles-Émile Tissot, who turned their home into a humble watch factory. At its start, the Tissot workshop began as a comptoir d’etablissage, combining the father’s skill as a gold case fitter with his son's ...

What is 5 ATM Water Resistance? Watches’ Depth Ratings Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 27, 2025

What is 5 ATM Water Resistance? Watches’ Depth Ratings Explained

Watches differ widely not only in their designs, materials, and functions but also in their ability to resist the detrimental effects of water and moisture. Some watch enthusiasts, especially those who wear their timepieces for diving, know exactly what they're looking for in terms of waterproofing, but many others might be unsure exactly how safe it is to wear their watch in the swimming pool or even to wash the car. What do watches' water-resistance ratings like 5 ATM or 10 ATM mean in the real world, and how exactly do industry terms like "bars" and "atmospheres" help you determine how waterproof your watch is? Here we address some commonly asked questions about water resistance in watches and break down what the most common depth ratings mean in practical terms.  What was the first water-resistant watch? Since the invention of the wristwatch, watchmakers have been coming up with solutions to address an inconvenient reality: namely, that water and tiny mechanical parts, such as those inside a watch movement, simply do not mix. The technical challenge of making a portable timepiece that could withstand exposure to water became even more prominent in the mid-20th Century, with the rise of diving as a tactical and eventually also a recreational pursuit. The first innovator to seriously take up the gauntlet was Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf, who developed the now-famous Oyster case in 1926. Its groundbreaking design combined a threaded, hermetically sealed caseback and a cro...

Albishorn Introduces the Marinagraph, a Unique Regatta Timer Worn & Wound
Aug 27, 2025

Albishorn Introduces the Marinagraph, a Unique Regatta Timer

Albishorn has accomplished quite a bit in its first year. It was around this time in 2024 that we were introduced to the brand through a collaboration with Wiiliam Massena. The Maxigraph introduced the tantalizing concept of the brand in an easily digestible way: these would be “imaginary vintage” watches inspired by alternate versions of watch history. It’s a clever spin on the well understood and perhaps overused idea of the “vintage inspired” watch that allows for a great deal more creativity and whimsy. Zach Weiss recently reviewed the Albishorn Type 10 and was impressed with both the execution and concept behind the piece. The new Marinagraph, available in two versions, is the next iteration of the Albishorn project. On its surface, this is a chronograph inspired  by the classic regatta timer. And, in some ways, it’s exactly that. But of course Albishorn has crafted a much more interesting story behind the Marinagraph, which is based on telling the “untold chapter in the evolution of the skin diver chronograph.” Albishorn says that the Marinagraph story starts with the 1958 running of the America’s Cup, the sailing competition that was first contested in 1851. The 1958 race was the first one after a period of dormancy, and introduced 12-Meter class yachts to the competition, which represented a significant advancement in technology to the sport, carrying sailing into a new, modern era.  The Marinagraph is a watch that might have accompanied the cre...

First Look – The new Albishorn Marinagraph, The Imaginary Vision of a Regatta Chronograph Monochrome
Aug 27, 2025

First Look – The new Albishorn Marinagraph, The Imaginary Vision of a Regatta Chronograph

Imaginary vintage… This is the idea behind young indie brand Albishorn, the project of Sebastien Chaulmontet (Director of Innovation and Marketing at Sellita) and Fabien Collioud (designer). The idea is to create vintage-inspired models that never existed, but that could have been real at a time… Hypothetical watches that can be seen as missing links […]

First Look – The Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar Skeleton Blue of Dawn Limited Edition Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Jaeger-LeCoultre Aug 27, 2025

First Look – The Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar Skeleton Blue of Dawn Limited Edition

About a decade and a half ago, I started to get a little bit more interested in watches. Not knowing the ins and outs yet, I started with what was familiar to me, the mainstream brands. But that quickly transformed when I learnt of brands such as Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre and the like. German high-end […]

Hands On With The New Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite It Aug 27, 2025

Hands On With The New Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite

It was only a matter of time before Zenith added a meteorite dial to the Chronomaster Sport collection, and now, they have! We’ve gone hands-on with it to test it out on launch. What We Love The meteorite dial, obviously! The El Primero movement The versatility of the watch itself What We Don’t The subdials can blend into the grey meteorite dial The bracelet still needs improving Lack of lume on the dial Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Believe it or not, this is the first time I’m officially reviewing the Zenith Chronomaster Sport. And lucky me, it just so happens to be the newly released meteorite dial version. Ok, it’s not that I haven’t worn the Zenith Chronomaster Sport before, I gave my thoughts on the green dial variant post its release at LVMH Watch Week in 2024, and then I subsequently took it on tour with me to New Zealand to see how it holds up as a watch you can travel and holiday with. But I never reviewed it in the true sense of the word, or gave it a rating. Until now. Hot off the press, or should I say, from the Manufacture in Le Locle is the new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite Dial. The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite Dial Meteorite dials are nothing new, but they do transform the look of a watch. The use of meteorite also elevates the price, too, thanks to the difficulty in working with the rock, not to mention the obvious fact that you’re not just creating ...

Review: the Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24 Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series Aug 26, 2025

Review: the Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24

One of the most satisfying experiences you can have when you write about watches is when a new piece completely meets or exceeds all of your expectations. This is a somewhat rare occurrence. When you see as many watches as we do, we notice all the little imperfections, compromises, and, sometimes, flat out mistakes. It means that even when we like a watch a lot our minds naturally go right to the idiosyncrasies that make it less than perfect. Because, after all, no watch is perfect. There are always small things that will bother you or that you wish had been handled in a slightly different way.  But then, sometimes, a watch comes along that legitimately stuns you. Even better when it’s from a brand that you’ve been waiting literally years to see if they could live up to the lofty ambitions they set for themselves, that they told you about over coffee in Geneva at an impromptu meeting with a table spread with rather rough prototypes.  Holthinrichs is a brand that’s been on my radar for just about as long as the brand has existed. Their design language, inspired by architecture, the elegant lines of classic sports cars, and their home city of Delft, is infused with a uniquely Dutch sensibility, and has always grabbed me. Brand founder Michiel Holthinrichs has emerged as one of contemporary indie watchmaking’s great characters. I hope he’d take it as a compliment if I described him as Biver-esque, but there’s some connective tissue there for sure in the way Mich...

Rolex Bracelet Types Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Aug 26, 2025

Rolex Bracelet Types Explained

Rolex has made many lasting contributions to the world of watchmaking since its foundation in 1905, not the least of which has been an array of massively popular and widely emulated bracelet designs. Here we take a close look at every type of Rolex bracelet, what makes it special, and which Rolex watches, if any, are using them today. Rolex Oyster Bracelet Rolex’s iconic Oyster bracelet is the template from which many other three-link bracelet styles have been drawn. Its name comes from its association with the Oyster case - introduced by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, and the most water-resistant watch case that had been made up to that point - and for which the original version of this bracelet served as an extension. Oyster bracelets are recognizable for their wide center links bordered by thinner end-links. Rolex patented the design in 1947 and fitted one on a watch in 1948. In the early versions, the links were riveted; these were phased out in favor of a “folding” style in 1967, which eventually gave way to the modern, solid-link style in 1975. Oyster bracelets come equipped with the accompanying Oysterlock clasp, a triple-deployant metal clasp with a safety-lock mechanism. Three-link bracelets like the Oyster and its various descendants are particularly popular on sports watches and dive watches, and this bracelet appears, as you’d expect on most of Rolex’s most popular “professional” models, including the Submariner, GMT-Master II, Explorer,...

Isotope Officially Debuts the Long Awaited OVNI Jumping Hour Worn & Wound
Isotope Officially Debuts Aug 26, 2025

Isotope Officially Debuts the Long Awaited OVNI Jumping Hour

If you’ve attended the Windup Watch Fair, British Watchmakers’ Day, or any other watch event in the last few years where Isotope and brand founder Jose Miranda have been in attendance, chances are you got an early look at the OVNI, their long in the works watch with a jumping hour complication. Like the Moonshot before it, the OVNI Jumping Hour represents Isotope at their most ambitious, creating a watch with a design that seems to be dropped from another world entirely, and with a unique interpretation of a classic complication. Lots of enthusiasts have been waiting for the OVNI to land, and its general release is a big milestone for the brand, which happens to coincide with Isotope’s tenth anniversary.  Like other watches in Isotope’s collection, the OVNI borrows heavily from science fiction in its design language, most notably with the saucer shaped case, which the brand proudly admits was inspired by UFOs (the name of the watch, OVNI, comes from the Iberian/French abbreviation for “UFO”). It’s crafted from 904L steel and measures 40mm across and 13.6mm tall. Virtually every surface is either brushed (the body of the case) or sandblasted (the crown) for a look that is unmistakably industrial. The crown at 12:00 is mirrored by an Isotope badge on the 6:00 side of the case (wisely, there’s no branding on the dial).  The sci-fi vibes are perhaps even stronger on the dial, which is where Isotope reinterprets the jumping hour concept in their own way. It’...

Introducing – The new Armin Strom Tribute 1 Sandstein Monochrome
Armin Strom Tribute 1 Sandstein Known Aug 26, 2025

Introducing – The new Armin Strom Tribute 1 Sandstein

Known for its complex watches with in-house movements using highly innovative solutions to improve accuracy, such as the spectacular resonance concept and the Gravity Equal Force, indie watchmaking brand Armin Strom decided in 2021 that it was time to offer something more focused, simpler, more elegant and yet distinctively its own. The result was the […]

Massena Lab and Vianney Halter Team Up for Steampunk Regulator SJX Watches
Massena Lab Aug 26, 2025

Massena Lab and Vianney Halter Team Up for Steampunk Regulator

Massena Lab’s latest collaboration is a steampunk regulator wristwatch created together with Vianney Halter. Blending the best of both their respective styles, the Old Soul is an unusual yet appealing proposition for collectors looking to get a sampling of the independent watchmaker’s best known works. The Old Soul displays the time regulator-style, with the hours, minutes, and seconds on separate registers. But it indicates the minutes with a clever trick: a “floating” minute pointer on a clear sapphire disc. Inside is a vintage Minerva movement that’s been dressed up for the occasion but still recognisable as an early-20th century calibre. Initial thoughts The Old Soul a continuation of the collection that began with the Old School made together with Luca Soprana. If Massena Lab founder William Rohr’s aesthetic sensibilities prevailed with the earlier watch, it is Mr Halter’s signature style that dominates the Old Soul. The Old Soul is unquestionably quirky - both as a whole and in the details. The watch looks like a regulator, but lacks the traditional vertical sub-dial arrangement. It also lacks a central minute hand, featuring instead a “floating” diamond-shaped pointer. The “floating” hand is a nifty optical illusion but it’s a straightforward concept that replaces the hand with a clear disc. Inside the piece ticks an equally unexpected movement, a “new old stock” Minerva cal. 17.22. According to Massena Lab, it was the discovery of a fo...

First Look – The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite Released Aug 26, 2025

First Look – The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite

Released in 2021, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport has been quite a success for the Le Locle-based brand. A versatile sports chronograph with enough arguments, visually and mechanically, to compete with the heavyweights of the category, it has been made in an array of different versions since its introduction. Ranging from classic to bold, we’ve seen […]