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The Grey NATO: Ep 104: The Isolation Tapes // TGN Bookclub
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SJX Watches
The Low-Key Debut of the Coolest Recent IWC Big Pilot
Last month IWC premiered a limited edition that has all the qualities of a hit: a bestselling classic in an exotic material, made in a very small run – and also incorporating nerdy, collector-oriented details. Instead, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Edition Black Carbon was debuted quietly, delivered to clients, and pretty much went unnoticed around the world. The first ever Big Pilot with a carbon fibre composite case, the Big Pilot Black Carbon has a black dial with grey hands and markings, replicating the colour of the composite case. It’s livened up by red accents on the power reserve indicator and seconds hand (and also the date disc, for a small number of special watches, more on that below). The famous “fish” More unusually, the Big Pilot Black Carbon has a “fish” crown – the oversized, onion-shaped winding crown has a stylised fish logo on its top. Despite being a seemingly trivial detail, the “fish” crown is dear to IWC enthusiasts, being a memorable element from IWC’s 20th century history – one many collectors regard as a golden age. From the 1950s until the mid-2000s, most water-resistant IWC watches featured a “fish” crown. The very first generation of the Big Pilot, the ref. 5002 introduced in 2002, featured a “fish” crown. Not long after, the “fish” crown was dispensed with in favour of a crown featuring the IWC “Probus Scafusia” emblem. This happened sometime in 2006, first with a “transitional” ref. 5002 that was equi...
Revolution
Introducing the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Twofold
Roger Dubuis debuts the Excalibur Twofold which showcases the watchmaker’s world premiere use of brand new material: Mineral Composite Fiber.
![Audemars Piguet Introduces the [Re]master01 Chronograph](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/audemars-piguet-remaster01-chronograph-1.jpg)
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the [Re]master01 Chronograph
In 2015, an Audemars Piguet ref. 1533 sold for 305,000 Swiss francs, setting the record for a vintage AP chronograph at auction – which was then topped two years ago by another example of the same reference that sold for 384,500 Swiss francs. An extra-large wristwatch with an unusual three-counter chronograph, instead of the two registers common at the time, the ref. 1533 was produced in the 1940s. Only nine were made, and three of the nine had two-tone, steel-and-gold cases, making them the rarest of variants. Unsurprisingly, both of the record-setting ref. 1533s were two-tone. And now the two-tone ref. 1533 has now been “remastered” as the modern-sounding but appealingly vintage [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph 40 mm, a limited edition of 500 watches to coincide with the new, spiral-shaped Audemars Piguet museum that’s scheduled to open around middle of the year. Vintage details Looking very much like the ref. 1533, the [Re]master01 recreates all of the key elements of the original. Characterised by large, teardrop lugs, the case is steel with its bezel, crown, and pushers in 18k pink gold. It’s 40 mm to accommodate the large, automatic cal. 4409 inside, but because the original was already 36.5 mm – enormous in the 1940s – the increased diameter still maintains the retro style. To match the gold accents, the dial has a gilt finish, which was unique amongst the vintage original – just one of the three two-tone ref. 1533s had a yellow gold-tone dia...
Quill & Pad
Smith & Sheth Cru: Rich, Exciting Wines From New Zealand With Alluring Aromas
New Zealand native Steve Smith has partnered with Brian Sheth to create a new operation: Smith & Sheth Cru. Ken Gargett believes this young winery co-founded by Smith, a highly decorated and experienced winemaker, could well take its place among the world’s exciting emerging wineries.
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TUDOR – 5 reasons the Tudor Heritage Chrono might be the watch for you
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Horological Machine HM10 'Bulldog' From MB&F;
Take a bite out of time.
Time+Tide
EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Joseph’s murdered out Seiko 5 Sports SRPD79K1 on integrated rubber Crafter Blue strap is a cold killer
Last year, we aired the first series of ‘Every Watch Tells A Story’ on YouTube. The premise is as simple as it gets. When we invite raucous crowds into the Time+Tide home base for events, occasionally we offer them the chance to tell the story of their watch. Which promptly explains why everyone in these … ContinuedThe post EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Joseph’s murdered out Seiko 5 Sports SRPD79K1 on integrated rubber Crafter Blue strap is a cold killer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko ups the ante – on itself – with the SLGH002, where classic meets cutting edge
Seiko is a brand that is well accustomed to competing with itself. Both to raise the bar for the brand’s watches, and for the betterment of the global watch industry. From the revolution of bringing quartz-powered movements to the masses, to embarrassing the Swiss at their own Chronometer Trials, the intrepid Japanese pioneers can seem … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko ups the ante – on itself – with the SLGH002, where classic meets cutting edge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Everything you need to know about French brand Yema watches, and their four key models
If you didn’t spend much time diving in the Azure Seas in coastal France in the late ’60s, chances are you may not be entirely familiar with the French brand Yema. With its most popular models having a subdued appearance, and not featuring ‘Swiss Made’ plastered all over the dial, it can be easy for … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about French brand Yema watches, and their four key models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Drum Roll, Please: Drummers And Watches, Natural Timekeepers From Kiss, The Beatles, Deep Purple, And Even A. Lange & Söhne- Reprise
Over the last few years, we have published an unusually high number of articles about drummers, the timekeepers in nearly every musical band or group. It kind of stands to reason that drummers would particularly like watches – even if they can’t (or shouldn’t!) wear them while playing – as both fields have extreme time-keeping functionality. Elizabeth Doerr highlights a few of these stories right here.
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Paradise found with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection, filmed on Lord Howe Island
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Platinum is back, baby
A short while ago, Nick Foulkes, writing for How To Spend It, espoused that the last 24 months have seen a significant rise in the popularity and production of solid platinum watches. Foulkes postulates that this may be, to a degree, down to the relatively recent vogue of steel watches, as platinum - at least from … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Platinum is back, baby appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: Grand Seiko Movements – Part II, the Spring Drives
If you haven’t yet read Part I, find the full article right here. This year, to mark its 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko has introduced two new movements, representing each of the brand’s two pillars: Calibre 9RA5 is a Spring Drive movement while Calibre 9SA5 is a traditional mechanical movement. These are entirely new movements, with every … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Grand Seiko Movements – Part II, the Spring Drives appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887
One of the most exotic Breguet watches in production today, the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 combines a tourbillon regulator, perpetual calendar, and running equation of time. Complexity aside, the watch is mechanically fascinating: the traditional complications within are executed in a modern and practical way. The equation of time, for instance, relies on an open-worked cam produced via the high-tech LIGA photolithography technique. And the tourbillon cage is lightweight titanium with a silicon escapement, while the automatic winding is equipped with a peripheral rotor. Breguet has now introduced a new version of the grand complication, in pink gold with a slate-grey dial. While it is mechanically identical to the two earlier versions – in platinum with a blue dial or pink gold with a silver dial – the new watch is striking and harmonious, shedding a bit of the sports-watch aesthetic of the Marine by way of the richer colours. Being a facelift, the dimensions of the watch remain unchanged. It is still a massive 43.9 mm in width, though a svelte 11.75 mm high, thanks to the ultra-thin movement inside. Like the movement, aesthetics across the case and dial are very much a blend of new and old. The case has the traditional fluted band, but is paired with modern integrated lugs. Similarly, the dial is solid gold and decorated with traditionally-executed guilloche engraved with a rose engine, but in a modern, stylised wave motif. In a nod to the age-o...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Taking the DOXA SUB 200 over the water, but not into it
Kayaking isn’t the sport that immediately comes to mind when you think of DOXA, given that your DOXA is most comfortable hundreds of metres under the water, not necessarily on a narrow boat above the water. But that is exactly where fellow watch writer Sophie Furley from Watchonista took two different DOXA models on quite … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Taking the DOXA SUB 200 over the water, but not into it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Great ‘Grams: The Fun Edition
This week in Great ‘Grams I wanted to focus on the more lighthearted side of the hobby, and probably the initial reason many of us became interested in horology - it’s fun. It’s fun to learn about a totally new version of a watch you thought you were familiar with, and it’s fun to ooh and … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: The Fun Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Wolverine is definitely one of us. Hugh Jackman explains his love for mechanical watches.
Time+Tide
Welcome to Watchland, the story of the Franck Muller manufacture
From Watchland, the Genevan estate where Franck Muller is based, you are able to look out across the calm blue waters of Lake Geneva to the far bank, and in the distance gaze up at the white peak of Mont Blanc. In this postcard setting, Watchland is an open expanse of chalet-style buildings designed by … ContinuedThe post Welcome to Watchland, the story of the Franck Muller manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Tudor BB36 review
Since Tudor’s inception in 1926, the brand has served as a feeder market of sorts to its big brother Rolex. For decades, Tudor watches shared cases, bracelets and crowns with Rolex, leaving the brand feeling like the lesser amongst watch enthusiasts. However, Tudor has seen a resurgence in popularity since the introduction of the Black Bay range in 2012. In 2016, the world welcomed the Tudor Black Bay 36. Has Tudor finally cemented itself as a peer of its creator, or is there work still to be done? The Tudor Black Bay 36, as the naming convention suggests, features a 36mm wide case constructed of both satin brushed and polished stainless steel. The case bears remarkable resemblance to the oyster style cases used by Rolex, and it’s not a surprise to see Tudor go with something similar in the Black Bay 36. After all, if it aint broke, don’t fix it right? The watch is comfortable and familiar on the wrist, so don’t let the 36mm sizing throw you off. Whilst it seems a little on the smaller side for a modern men’s offering, the Black Bay 36 feels like a modern watch on the wrist. It carries itself remarkably well, thanks to the incredible build quality and contrast between the finishes on the case and the character exuding from the dial. There is a high polish executed on the non-rotating bezel that catches the light and your eye at every opportunity. The bezel acts as a perfect frame for the deep, glossy black dial and stark white indices. The dial on the Tudor Black...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Our four favourite stories of the week, feat. Dusty, Magnets and Mil-specs
The Friday Wind Down was always intended to be some light relief to deliver to the inbox in that window between finishing up for the week and starting the weekend. That precious interstitial place that is usually accompanied by a cold beer or a room-temperature red and some wacky workplace banter. That’s certainly what’s happening … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Our four favourite stories of the week, feat. Dusty, Magnets and Mil-specs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
London, New York, Paris, Tokyo: The limited edition Hublots that celebrate the big 4 cities
Hublot has decided to celebrate their love of Britain’s capital city in quite a literal way – by producing this, the Hublot Classic Fusion Special Edition London. Based on the standard Classic Fusion, the 45mm case of the new London edition features bespoke elements such as a polished black ceramic case, black satin-finished bezel and … ContinuedThe post London, New York, Paris, Tokyo: The limited edition Hublots that celebrate the big 4 cities appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A powerful demonstration of why magnetism matters, with the Baume & Mercier Baumatic
Daniel Braillard, the COO of Baume & Mercier, is itching to show me something. The pleasantries ahead of the interview are going on, but he holds in his hand a Baume & Mercier Classima and in the other his iPhone, in its case. I take the bait. What’s up? Is there to be a demonstration? … ContinuedThe post A powerful demonstration of why magnetism matters, with the Baume & Mercier Baumatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Russell Crowe tells the story of his watches, before SELLING!
Quill & Pad
It’s Not Easy Being Green! 4 Verdant Watches To Celebrate A Socially Distanced St. Patrick’s Day 2020 From Rolex, Glashütte Original, Tutima, And Fabergé
Adding some color to what is in most parts of the western world a self-isolated or even quarantined St. Patrick's Day celebration, Elizabeth Doerr highlights a few watches with eye-catching green dials ranging from about $2,000 all the way up to $89,000.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller Vanguard Classic that can take you from boardroom to beach
Fans of Franck Muller will know there is something in the Vanguard collection for everyone. With more than 30 different references in the current lineup, including chronographs, tourbillons and skeletonised movements, the independent watchmaker has ensured that no matter where you want to take your watch, there is a generously curved creation for you. Despite … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller Vanguard Classic that can take you from boardroom to beach appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Hublot Closes Factory Amidst Coronavirus Concerns; More Closures Sure To Follow
Hublot has just announced closure of its factory for an indeterminate amount of time, as stated in a press release on March 17. The news comes a day after Rolex announced closure of all its manufacturing facilities for two weeks.
Time+Tide
Our 3 favourite watches from H. Moser & Cie.’s new Certified Pre-Owned Collection
In an increasingly common trend among Swiss watchmakers, H. Moser & Cie. has unveiled a dedicated, in-house managed range of certified pre-owned watches. Available for purchase directly through the H. Moser & Cie. website, the curated collection of timepieces are, according to Moser, meticulously inspected, serviced and polished back to factory original condition by the … ContinuedThe post Our 3 favourite watches from H. Moser & Cie.’s new Certified Pre-Owned Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
BREAKING NEWS: Rolex shuts down production for 10 days, closing three factories
Rolex Chief Executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour has today informed Rolex staff that they will be shutting down three factories in response to the increasing threat of COVID-19, from 5pm today. First reported by WatchPro USA, the news of the shut down was shared to Rolex employees in a letter, indicating the shut-down is set to last … ContinuedThe post BREAKING NEWS: Rolex shuts down production for 10 days, closing three factories appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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