Deployant
Review: the amazing Rudis Sylva RS14 Titane
We had the Rudis Sylva RS14 Titane on hand for the best part of the month, and here is our in-depth comprehensive review of this amazing watch.
Results for DLC and PVD Coating
30,925 articles · 161 videos found · page 533 of 1037
Deployant
Monochrome
Introducing - This New Mido Multifort Mechanical Gives Back the Mundane Unitas its Necessary Credentials
The Unitas, known under the names ETA 6498 and 6497 (depending on its configuration, Lépine or Savonette), is without a doubt one of the most important and most long-lasting movements of the Swiss industry. This simple, no-nonsense but reliable hand-wound movement has been produced since the 1950s, yet originates from classic pocket watch calibres. Often […]
![Hands-On With The Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified [With Video]](https://www.fratellowatches.com/cdn-cgi/image/anim=false/wp-content/uploads/2024/12/Omega-Speedmaster-Pilot-Flight-Qualified-332.10.41.51.01.002-Watch-38.jpg)
Fratello
Hands-On With The Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified [With Video]
It’s here! The Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified debuted as a pilot-only watch a few months ago, but Omega decided to make a slightly different version available for people like you (assuming you aren’t a US military pilot) and me. Originally for US military pilots At the end of September, we showed you the US military […] Visit Hands-On With The Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified [With Video] to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Insight: The Modern Performance Chronograph Movement
High-end chronograph movements of today tend to have in common a vertical clutch and column wheel. Such “performance” chronographs are typically also automatic, and practically every high-end watchmaker, from Audemars Piguet to Vacheron Constantin, has its own take on the modern “performance” chronograph. The chronograph movement as we know it today is actually a fairly recent invention. Despite being common in today’s chronograph constructions, the vertical coupling, or at least its concept, is decades-old. The Pierce cal. 130/134 launched in the 1930s is regarded as the first commercially available wristwatch with a vertical clutch. There are examples of even older stopwatches that relied on crude forms of the vertical clutch, but most were either prototypes or small-batch production. But the large-scale use of the vertical clutch only started in the late 1960s, when Seiko debuted the cal. 6139. Launched in 1969, the Seiko cal. 6139 was a vertical clutch movement produced on an industrial scale. Not only was it among the first-ever automatic chronographs, but the cal. 6139 also was objectively the most advanced amongst them. Compared to the modular construction of the Breitling-Heuer Chronomatic Caliber 11 and the fairly classical architecture of the Zenith El Primero, the Seiko cal. 6139 was endowed with a vertical clutch and a novel construction all around. It was, however, an industrial, no-frills movement at heart. The one that started it all – the cal. ...
SJX Watches
Zenith’s 1/100th Second Chronograph Inlaid with Tiger’s Eye
Zenith has given its 1/100th-of-a-second El Primero 21 an unusual attire – pusher protectors and a dodecagonal bezel in tiger’s eye mineral stone. Matched with a dial featuring tiger stripes and green accents, the Defy Extreme Jungle retains the trademark double balance wheels of the model. The movement features a conventional timekeeping balance operating at 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz), and a smaller regulator for the chronograph that beats 10 times as fast, 360,000 beats per hour or 50 Hz, enabling the chronograph to record times with a resolution of up to to 1/100th of a second. Initial thoughts I have long thought that the Defy Extreme was too similar to other, more famous oversized sports chronographs, that is, until I actually got to try on the Defy Extreme Jungle in person. The new Defy still evokes other designs, but it is finely executed, with the minerals stone inlay being notably well done. At the same time, the tiger’s eye elements add some originality to the design, so this easily stands out as the most interesting model in the Defy line. The tiger’s eye components, especially since they are prominently positioned, are likely more fragile than the same on the equivalent titanium model, but they add texture and colour so are arguably worth the sacrifice of practicality. At US$26,900, the Defy Extreme Jungle is pricier than the average Zenith chronograph, but still a reasonable proposition given the exotic material and 1/100th of a second movement. Tige...
Monochrome
First Look - The Grand Seiko Icefall Returns, with the 40mm Titanium SBGH349
In September this year, Grand Seiko unveiled a rather striking new model, the Icefall SBGH347. Not only did this watch come with a new dial pattern and a stunning colour, but it also celebrated an important milestone in the brand’s history, the launch in 1998 of the purely mechanical 9S series. This initial Icefall watch […]
Worn & Wound
First Look: Élge Returns with the French-Made Chamonix
Reviving defunct watch brands is more common than it once was. Previously, the idea caused excitement, though not without trepidation. Would this reincarnated brand bring back interesting pieces from its archives, be a contemporary reinterpretation of the brand’s spirit, or just be a hollow attempt to cash in on some old name? It was always a waiting game to see which, and we saw all three. But in the years since the strategy for revivals has been refined. Respect for historical designs and proportions is a given, but with so many brands having made similarly styled watches in the past, it’s less provocative to have a vintage-looking watch with a vintage name. What makes a newly revived brand stand out now is its execution and story, if there is one to share. This brings me to this article’s subject, the return of Elgé. Elgé is not a brand I was aware of before being told of their relaunch, and I imagine that is likely the case for most enthusiasts, at least in the US. This immediately presents both a challenge and an opportunity. On one hand, no preconceived notions would lead to expectations. On the other, there is no existing reverence for the brand. Ultimately, they will have to rely on the quality of their designs and the watches themselves, which, in fairness, should always matter more than history, at least in my eyes. So, who is Elgé? Well, information on them is sparse, and based on a quick search, every description appears to be nearly identical, all rif...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Holiday Gift Guide: Hamilton Has a Little Something for Everyone
As enthusiasts, we know that there are just a handful of brands out there that can check boxes on multiple fronts. Hamilton is certainly one of those brands. It’s one of those clear, go-to recommendations for a smart, stylish Swiss watch that has a collection for all kinds of friends and family-making it one of the most giftable brands around. With models built for the adventurous type to the trendsetter in your life-there’s a Hamilton out there for everyone. We’ve identified and paired five Hamilton watches with complementary products for five different personas. Please enjoy the ultimate Hamilton gift guide. The post Holiday Gift Guide: Hamilton Has a Little Something for Everyone appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Reading Time at HSNY: From Chiming to Rhyming
Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver One Snow
Some of you might already be familiar with Wren Watches. The New York-based passion project is the brainchild of Wrist Enthusiast founder Craig Karger. A lawyer by trade and watch enthusiast by heart, he started with a Wrist Enthusiast Instagram account that quickly amassed a loyal following. After expanding Wrist Enthusiast onto multiple platforms, the […] Visit Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver One Snow to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Frederique Constant's Classic Moneta Moonphase, Now Available Stateside
An affordable and attractive quartz watch that was only available overseas in Europe now hits American shores.
Monochrome
Introducing - Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar 2025 “Year of the Snake”
Blancpain’s longstanding tradition of calendar complications stood it in good stead when it approached the complexities of fusing elements from Chinese and Gregorian calendars to produce the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar in 2012. Celebrating the Chinese New Year that kicks off on January 29, 2025, the latest Villeret welcomes the Year of the Wood Snake. […]
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Rolex Stella-Inspired Oyster Perpetual 41 with Turquoise Blue Dial
There aren’t that many rules that GaryG applies to watch collecting, but one rule that he has found critically important is that it’s crucial to handle a watch before buying it. This story however is about how Gary completely violated that rule and nonetheless came away happy with a watch that few people would have guessed he would buy: the 2020-launched Oyster Perpetual 41 from Rolex with a bright turquoise blue dial.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Yema Superman Gilt CMM.10 Collection
Yema, a French watchmaking brand based in Morteau, in the Jura region near the Swiss border, continues to improve its historic Superman diving collection, much to the delight of those familiar with the brand and those only beginning to discover its offer. Following the recent introduction of the Superman Slim, equipped with a micro-rotor calibre […]
SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces the Smaller, Simpler Type 9
Continuing the development of scaled-down versions of its signature wristwatch, Ressence unveils the Type 9. Characterised by a 39 mm titanium case – the smallest model in the brand’s current catalogue – the Type 9 is similar to the Type 8 in being a time-only displaying just hours and minutes, with no seconds. In a first for the brand, the minute scale has been repositioned from the dial to the fixed bezel that now sports a five-minute scale. Initial thoughts The Type 9 is a logical evolution of the brand’s entry-level model that retains the trademark “planetary” time display but in a smaller, simpler format. With a diameter of only 39 mm and short lugs, the Type 9 is more wearable. Though the Type 9 is the most affordable watch in the line-up, the new model does not compromise on aesthetics, maintaining the distinctive look and feel. Priced at CHF12,500, the Type 9 is CHF1,000 less expensive than the next-most-affordable model, the Type 8. For me, it is an ideal Ressence wristwatch that combines a perfect proportions with affordability. Arguably the only downside of the Type 9 is that it adds to the ever-growing catalogue of fairly similar models. The overlap between the Types 8 and 9 are obvious and possibly confusing. Perfect size In traditional Ressence style, the case of the Type 9 has no crown. Instead time-setting and manual winding of the movement is done by rotating the case back. Due to its construction, the case is only water resistant to 10 m, “s...
Monochrome
Buying Guide - Shopping for Creatively Complex Watches on a Budget of 5,000 Euros
In our fascinating little bubble of mechanical watchmaking, attention often goes to high-dollar watches, and most of the time, that’s for a perfectly logical reason. The arms race in complexity is partly to blame, as brands try to outdo one another for the sake of winning over the public. But adding a complication on top […]
Fratello
Fratelli Stories: Dan’s Connection To His Grandfathers Through Their Watches
In this latest edition of Fratelli Stories, Fratello reader Dan speaks about the three most special watches in his extensive collection - a Citizen, Seiko, and Edox. These three watches help connect him to warm memories of his two grandfathers. One of the best elements of this hobby has to be the people. I don’t […] Visit Fratelli Stories: Dan’s Connection To His Grandfathers Through Their Watches to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Insight: Updated Criteria for the Patek Philippe Seal
Patek Philippe had an active 2024, not just because of the launch of the ref. 5330G World Time with Date, a massive collection of Rare Handcrafts, and of course the Cubitus. But equally notable was the announcement of updates to the Patek Philippe Seal. Buried on the last page of its 2024 Watches & Wonders brochure was some fine print about some updates to the brand’s internal certification that superseded the longstanding Poinçon de Genève in 2009. The updates applied to two things that watch enthusiasts love to argue about: water resistance and rate accuracy. Officially rated to 30 m and -1/+2 seconds a day Initial thoughts Water resistance is never far from the minds of watch geeks, so it’s no surprise that this is dominated the discourse when the announcement was made earlier in the year; the idea of a Nautilus rated to just 30 m was concerning to many. Apparently even the fact that the watch itself was unchanged did little to quiet the nerves. Perhaps because people enjoy the opportunity to punch up, far more attention was paid to the issue of water resistance than the meaningful updates made to timekeeping testing and certification, which cement Patek Philippe’s position as the leader in high-end mechanical timekeeping at scale. The cal. 240 PS CI J LU of the Cubitus ref. 5822P also features a Spiromax hairspring, clearly visible Thirty meters But let’s get water resistance out of the way. Patek Philippe now guarantees all of its water-resistant watches to ...
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: A. Lange & Söhne Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon
When the hammer came down at the Phillips auction and GaryG became the new owner of an A. Lange & Söhne Pour Le Mérite Tourbillon, the feeling was one of complete joy, representing the culmination of a multiyear chase. What makes this particular watch so special in so many ways to him?
Time+Tide
Citizen celebrates the Promaster Collection’s 35th anniversary with three distinct limited editions
The Japanese brand celebrates a major milestone with three different Promasters each representing a distinct environment: Sea, Land and Air.The post Citizen celebrates the Promaster Collection’s 35th anniversary with three distinct limited editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Zenith DEFY Extreme Jungle
The Zenith DEFY Extreme Jungle is a limited edition timepiece that draws inspiration from the untamed energy and captivating mystery of the jungle. As the final installment in Zenith's series of watches inspired by extreme environments, this model follows the Desert and Glacier editions. Limited to just 50 pieces, the DEFY Extreme Jungle combines innovative design with high-performance features, making it a notable addition to Zenith's DEFY collection.
Time+Tide
What influence do Japanese collectors still have on the industry?
Japan is heralded as a place for amazing vintage watches and red-hot independent brands. But where does Japan's love of watches come from? The post What influence do Japanese collectors still have on the industry? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Looking Back On 2024 - Part 1 With Malaika & TanTan
Chatting over the last year in watches, what we liked, the big moments, and more.
Worn & Wound
Just A Minute With The Casio Casiotron All Black
1974. The year that launched Skylab 4, The Godfather Part II, and the very first Casio digital watch. Fifty years later, Casio has relaunched the Casiotron for the modern era. With updated sizing, a sleek black and gold color scheme, and a vintage Casiotron logo at 6:00, it’s a bold statement with retro styling to match. The Casio solar quartz 3542 module packs in all the features enthusiasts have come to expect from the brand, a whole suite of features including an alarm, automatic calendar, and world time zone tracker. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. 1974. The year that launched Skylab 4, The Godfather Part II, and the very first Casio digital watch. Fifty years later, Casio has relaunched the Casiotron for the modern era. With updated sizing, a sleek black and gold color scheme, and a vintage Casiotron logo at 6:00, it’s a bold statement with retro styling to match. The Casio solar quartz 3542 module packs in all the features enthusiasts have come to expect from the brand, a whole suite of features including an alarm, automatic calendar, and world time zone tracker. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post Just A Minute With The Casio Casiotron All Black appeare...
Fratello
The Doxa Sub 300 “Great White” Topper Edition - An LE Done Right
Topper Fine Jewelers in Burlingame, California has created some truly memorable collaborative limited-edition watches. Brands like Zodiac, Seiko, and Fears have been featured on one or more of the 14 pieces thus far. The latest release is the Doxa Sub 300 “Great White” Topper Edition. It’s a cool piece with enough differences from the serial-production […] Visit The Doxa Sub 300 “Great White” Topper Edition - An LE Done Right to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: The Great Big 2024 New York Auctions Preview Edition
Walking you through all the lots to watch this week at Sotheby's, Phillips, Christie's, and Sotheby's again.
Fratello
Available Now: Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green”
After proudly introducing you to our latest Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green” edition, we are now thrilled to launch it in the Fratello Shop. This watch is our second collaboration with Czapek, and we couldn’t be more excited thanks to the overwhelmingly positive feedback you all have given us already. The great news […] Visit Available Now: Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Hanhart tugs at its fans’ vintage heartstrings with the 415 ES, bringing back the winged logo
Hanhart explores some lesser-known history, and brings back a taste of the 1960s.The post Hanhart tugs at its fans’ vintage heartstrings with the 415 ES, bringing back the winged logo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Hot Take: The New Nezumi Tonnerre Monochrome Chronograph
Stockholm-based Nezumi Studios has been in business since 2011 and making affordable, traditionally designed watches since 2015. The focus is on sporty pieces, such as divers, GMTs, chronographs, and field watches. Now a new variant enters the collection. The Tonnerre Monochrome chronograph, with its classic color scheme, is sure to be a hit. Nezumi’s watches […] Visit Hot Take: The New Nezumi Tonnerre Monochrome Chronograph to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Boutique Edition
When it was first presented in 2017, the Black Bay Chrono generated mixed emotions. The good ones came from the overall performance and fairly reasonable price (considering the whole package), as well as the unexpected industrial alliance with Breitling. Others pointed out the rather uninspired design of the inaugural edition as well as the strange mix […]