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What Is A Tourbillon? Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 21, 2025

What Is A Tourbillon?

For many watch collectors, acquiring one's first tourbillon watch is a Holy Grail, a rite of passage into the upper echelons of horological connoisseurship. If you're new to the watch appreciation game, however, you may be wondering what all the fuss is about. What is so special about tourbillon watches, anyway, and what makes them so desirable to so many while still being so prohibitively expensive for most? The short answer is that a tourbillon is, in this day and age, less of a necessity and more of a badge of historical high-watchmaking excellence. For a more detailed explanation, read on.  The First Tourbillons and Early Innovations The inventor of the tourbillon is a name that is likely familiar to watch connoisseurs. Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823), a native of Switzerland who plied his trade as a watchmaker in Paris, was one of horology’s most significant historical figures, among whose many innovations was the first self-winding movement, the first repeater movement with a gong, one of the earliest constant-force escapements, and the device that he famously patented in 1801, the so-called tourbillon escapement.  While the tourbillon is today considered by many to be a complication, like a chronograph or calendar mechanism, its original purpose was a fully practical one, to compensate for the ill effects of gravity on the movement of a pocket watch and thus improve its long-term accuracy. Remember, in Breguet’s time, watches were not worn on wrists, where ...

What I Learned Touring Casio’s Ultra Modern Factory (and Museum) Worn & Wound
Casio s Ultra Modern Factory Aug 21, 2025

What I Learned Touring Casio’s Ultra Modern Factory (and Museum)

I have a confession to make: I (politely) turn down 90% of press junkets offered to me. So, when Casio reached out to me earlier this year with the opportunity to visit their Yamagata factory and the Tokyo headquarters, I was not too sure. I thought about it for three days on how this would be different from any other watch factory visit, and how I would narrate my visit without the usual “Maison’s” PR team influencing my writing. There were two reasons I accepted Casio’s invitation. First, Casio is unlike any other watch company, so it will make for an interesting visit and observations. And second, Casio culture is different from other watch companies, including their PR and marketing folks. They are transparent about everything; they allowed me to ask the tough questions and did not influence my story. I will touch on both points further in this article. The original G-SHOCK There were three journalists on this trip including me, so it was a small group for this visit. We visited Casio’s Yamagata factory the first day, their museum in Tokyo the following day, and on the final day we visited the headquarters to meet and interview executives overseeing the watch division. All three visits were so different from each other – the first was so technical, the second was all about design and history, and the final visit was about strategy.  For our visit to the Yamagata factory, we woke up early to take the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Higashine city, in Yamagata ...

H. Moser and Azuki Partner on a New Collaboration Worn & Wound
H. Moser Aug 21, 2025

H. Moser and Azuki Partner on a New Collaboration

It’s hard to believe, but with Labor Day just over the horizon, the first days of tolerable weather breaking into the mix, and the whole world picking up pace, there’s no denying that we’re fast approaching the end of summer. For many, the end of summer also marks the end of dive watch season, but we at Worn & Wound aren’t quite ready to pack up one of our favorite styles of watch for the year, and neither is one of our favorite brands, H. Moser & Cie. In fact, they’re doubling down with the release of what just may be the best collab dive watch of 2025, in partnership with anime-inspired digital art collective, Azuki. Their latest collection - which Moser and Azuki have dubbed the “Elements of Time” - draws from Azuki’s Elementals NFT Collection, with four new dial designs inspired by the elements of Azuki’s Element Universe: Fire, Earth, Water, and Lightning. Playing host to these elemental dials - each of which boasts a unique blend of guillochage and fumé finishing - is the Pioneer Centre Seconds Rotating Bezel, a dive watch–esque sports watch that has long been one of Moser’s great under-the-radar offerings. Though not technically a dive watch by the strictest ISO definitions, the Pioneer Centre Seconds Rotating Bezel certainly plays all the dive watch hits, and plays them well. First introduced as a stainless steel 42mm watch in 2019, the Centre Seconds RB has been subject to several reinterpretations over the years, including in collab...

First Look – A Fresh New Green Dial for the Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic When Aug 20, 2025

First Look – A Fresh New Green Dial for the Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic

When it comes to watches for men made by Bulgari, it seems the multiple-time record-breaking Octo Finissimo range gets all the attention… Rightfully so, you’ll admit, as this collection is as spectacular visually as it is technically. Bold, ultra-thin, highly distinctive in its approach to design and materials and undeniably Italian, it is the brand’s […]

Snoopy Watches: How Brands are Embracing the Beloved Peanuts Character Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 20, 2025

Snoopy Watches: How Brands are Embracing the Beloved Peanuts Character

Charles M. Schulz published his first Peanuts comics strip in 1950, setting the foundation for a world of iconic characters like Charlie Brown, Peppermint Patty, and perhaps most famously, Charlie Brown’s dog Snoopy, an irrepressible beagle originally based on a drawing of Schulz’s childhood pet, Spike. Peanuts grew from humble beginnings (syndicated in just seven newspapers)  to become the most popular and influential comics strip in the world, published in more than 2,600 newspapers from 1950 to 2000 and claiming a worldwide readership of 355 million in 75 countries. It also spawned an entertainment and marketing phenomenon, with numerous animated film and TV specials that have stood the test of time and a flood of branded products that continues into the modern era. Snoopy, including all his various, beloved “fantasy life” iterations - like the World War I Flying Ace and the beatnik-inspired, shades-wearing “Joe Cool” - remains one of the most famous and recognizable characters in the world. His likeness can be found on merchandise from backpacks and sweatshirts, to notebooks and wrapping paper, to mugs and glassware, to the world’s most famous giant parade balloon. It was more or less inevitable that Snoopy, and others from the Peanuts gang, would also find their way onto watches, the first one coming from New York-based Armitron in 1956 (above). The last original Peanuts cartoon strip ran on February 13, 2000, one day after Charles M. Schulz die...

Introducing – The New and Bold Kurono Tokyo Vermilion Chronograph Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo Vermilion Chronograph Let’s get Aug 20, 2025

Introducing – The New and Bold Kurono Tokyo Vermilion Chronograph

Let’s get something out of the way immediately: yes, it is brightly coloured, and yes, it isn’t the easiest watch to acquire. Right, let’s now be more serious about Kurono Tokyo and its latest watch, the Vermilion Chronograph. What is Kurono? Well, that’s the accessible brand of independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, a bit like so-called […]

Roger Dubuis Impresses with the RD780 Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey though Aug 20, 2025

Roger Dubuis Impresses with the RD780 Flyback Chronograph

Representing a new era for the Roger Dubuis manufacture, the Excalibur Spider Flyback is an aggressively styled, motorsports-themed chronograph – boasting the impressive, high-spec RD780 movement with some unusual tricks up its sleeve, including an inclined balance. While the Excalibur Spider Flyback harkens back to the brand’s early aspirations in terms of movement construction and ambition, it diverges entirely in style with its supercar-inspired lines. Limited to 88 examples in pink gold, it debuted at Monterey Car Week – Roger Dubuis is a partner of Lamborghini – this variant in pink gold and blackened titanium is a new iteration of a model originally available in carbon composite. The RD780 Initial Thoughts In its past life, Roger Dubuis raised a menagerie of ambitious – perhaps overambitious – movements. While the brand thinned the herd after the 2008 financial crisis, some of that spirit lives on inside the Excalibur Spider Flyback. It attempts the dial-movement integration and three dimensionality mastered by some independent watchmakers like Greubel Forsey, though the construction is still fairly traditional, leading to some lost opportunities. The calibre is impressive – especially for a brand owned by a luxury group – but could be better. For example, the minutes counter could be inclined by 12° to mirror the balance and the imitation barrel bridge to be more convincing in terms of style and symmetry. With its over-the-top-style, the Richard Mil...

Farer Introduces the Integra, their First Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces Aug 19, 2025

Farer Introduces the Integra, their First Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch

It’s perhaps a little surprising that it’s taken this long for Farer to enter the integrated bracelet sports watch scene. Not because the brand seems like a particularly likely prism through which to interpret the genre, but because the integrated bracelet sports watch has simply become a category unto itself over these last few years, and a brand that commits to variety of any kind needs to have one in their catalog, just as they need to have a diver, a dress watch, and so forth. The fact that so many small brands have carved out space in their collections for what was once a fairly niche and, if we’re being honest, not even very desirable style of watch says a lot about the state of the watch industry, more in fact than the purview of this article, which is to introduce the new Farer Integra lineup. The Integra is what Farer calls their “urban sports watch,” a characterization that has always confused me when used by other brands, and is even a bit stranger when you realize one of these watches has a malachite dial, and another in mother of pearl. Farer is a brand whose aesthetic is borrowed from nautical themes, car culture, vintage watch design, and other sources, so their take on “urban” was always going to be filtered through a very particular sensibility. In any case, it makes me wonder why any brand feels they need to fill these invented micro-niches. Can’t we just call it an integrated bracelet sports watch? Or a sports watch? We all kind of know w...

Introducing – Micromilspec Launches its First Pilot’s Watch, the Dualtimer Monochrome
Aug 19, 2025

Introducing – Micromilspec Launches its First Pilot’s Watch, the Dualtimer

Micromilspec may be new to some enthusiasts, but in professional circles, the Oslo-based brand is already trusted. Founded by Henrik Rye with designer Anders Drage and a serving Norwegian Army member, the company built its reputation on custom watches co-designed with military units worldwide. From naval squadrons to combat battalions, even Norway’s King’s Guard, over […]

Tudor Black Bay Pro Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Aug 19, 2025

Tudor Black Bay Pro Review

At Watches & Wonders 2025, Tudor expanded its existing catalog to address some fan requests as well as to reset some long neglected collections. One release that does both is the new Black Bay Pro with a silver opaline dial. This is a configuration long requested from enthusiasts, and Tudor did the idea justice by getting the small details right. This is more than a mere dial swap, even if the underlying platform remains largely the same. This is the kind of methodical evolution we’ve come to expect from Tudor, though in some ways, the new Black Bay Pro plays things a little too safe.  Let’s take a quick look back at Tudor’s recent history with the GMT complication to set some context for the newest Black Bay Pro, because - while this configuration has been highly requested - as far as fan requests go, this watch has one glaring omission. Tudor released the Black Bay GMT back in 2018 with a black dial and a throwback red-and-blue aluminum bezel. As popular as the watch was right off the bat, the size made it a tough pill to swallow for some, particularly the thickness of the case paired with the relatively flat sidewall.  Tudor Black Bay Pro Case Tudor partially addressed this with the release of the first Black Bay Pro in 2022 in a 39mm steel case. The watch also played up ties to the Rolex Explorer II with a fixed steel bezel. It was an unexpected release but it hit many of the right notes, and it made the substantial thickness a bit easier to stomach. It wor...

Celebrating 100 Years of the Leica I in Wetzlar Worn & Wound
Aug 19, 2025

Celebrating 100 Years of the Leica I in Wetzlar

There is something you must know about me: I am not a photographer. I have no idea what an aperture is and I will undoubtedly equate everything you tell me about a specific camera to what my iPhone can do. This is just how it is. But earlier this summer, while in Germany to celebrate the centenary of the Leica I, I found myself equal parts humbled and educated on the sheer passion photographers have for their craft. In some ways, my invitation to Leica’s HQ was a bit like Willy Wonka’s Golden Ticket. In the U.S., only four journalists attended the events - myself being one of them. And while you may be confused why the hell I got the invite…don’t worry, dear Reader, I was, too.  Sure, I’ve always liked the idea of photography and I’m drawn to the analogue world that a point-and-shoot camera can draw up. I have a few Slim Aarons prints in my writing studio and a pile of photography books I’ve never flipped through in my life, but I like knowing I could, if the mood were to strike. So when I accepted my invitation, I was under the (very mistaken) pretense that I could walk the walk as much as I’ve talked the talk now and then. Photo courtesy Leica But when you find yourself surrounded by 800 professional photographers, everything is a little clearer. I was out of my element, out of my league, and tried desperately to get an education on Leicas - and fast. It’s one thing to feel like a fraud, but it’s another thing entirely to let others in on my litt...

The Moser Pioneer Returns with a Dive Bezel (and NFT Connection) SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie.’s only dive Aug 19, 2025

The Moser Pioneer Returns with a Dive Bezel (and NFT Connection)

H. Moser & Cie.’s only dive watch returns as the Pioneer “Elements of Time”, the result of an unexpected, but not unprecedented, collaboration with Azuki, an anime-inspired NFT, and American retailer The 1916 Company. Unsurprisingly given the digital nature of the collaboration, the watches will only be available online via raffle from Azuki. Representing the four elements of earth, lightning, fire and water, Elements of Time features engraved fumé dials in four colourways. Each is limited to 24 watches in Pioneer Centre Seconds format, along with one unique Pioneer tourbillon per colour. All variants are titanium, matched with bracelet with the amenities you’d expect from a diver, including a micro-adjust clasp. Initial Thoughts While a new Pioneer with a rotating bezel would normally be a major release, you won’t find Elements of Time on Moser’s website. That’s because it’s a collaboration with Azuki, a non-fungible token (NFT). Azuki is Japanese for “red bean”, but Azuki is basically anime-style digital art on the blockchain. But these are real watches – they can be collected at The 1916 Company’s physical stores – and more notably, sport of the most interesting fumé dials from Moser in a while. This isn’t Moser’s first foray into the Web 3.0 world. Back in 2022, the brand launched the Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis, a watch that was essentially a physical QR code. The timing wasn’t the best as it debuted just as the NFT bubble popped...

The 15 Best British Watch Brands (2026) Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 18, 2025

The 15 Best British Watch Brands (2026)

While Switzerland is regarded today as the world leader of watchmaking, Great Britain can lay claim to a wealth of horological milestones throughout its history as well. From Thomas Mudge’s development of the lever escapement in 1755 to John Harrison’s invention of the marine chronometer in 1759 to the innovations of clockmaker Thomas Tompion and his protegé George Graham in the areas of science and astronomy, England was an undisputed leader in timekeeping throughout the 18th and 19th centuries. The 20th century brought the decline of the British Empire and, with it, British watchmaking, as nations like Switzerland, Germany, and (for a while) the United States stepped in with modern mass-production techniques while the Brits held fast to traditional, artisanal methods. The United Kingdom essentially ceased being a major producer of timepieces by the end of World War II, but as the 21st Century dawned, a handful of entrepreneurial Britons have made great strides in bringing high-end watchmaking back to their native land, establishing new brands - and in some cases, resurrecting old ones - to make watches that appeal to today’s discerning enthusiasts in the U.K. and across the world. Whether the focus is military-style tool watches, avant-garde complications at approachable prices, or ultra-high-end pieces for well-heeled collectors, each brand boasts an identity that is proudly British and at the same time distinct from its peers. Here are 15 British watch bran...

Introducing – The New Chronoswiss Opus Purple Rain, Celebrating 30 Years of The Skeleton Chronograph Monochrome
Chronoswiss Aug 18, 2025

Introducing – The New Chronoswiss Opus Purple Rain, Celebrating 30 Years of The Skeleton Chronograph

When Gerd-Rüdiger Lang (1943–2023) founded Chronoswiss in 1983, his mission was to safeguard and advance mechanical watchmaking at a time when quartz technology threatened to eclipse traditional horology. A master watchmaker, Lang became renowned for pioneering features now considered staples of fine watchmaking, and the openworked mechanical chronograph. In 1995, Chronoswiss launched the Opus, the […]

Insight: The Evolution of Patek Philippe Marketing Since 1839 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Marketing Since 1839 Often Aug 18, 2025

Insight: The Evolution of Patek Philippe Marketing Since 1839

Often behind every watch brand’s marketing and image is an overarching influence that can be subtle or explicit. For Patek Philippe, that influence reveals a long arc of intention, carried across centuries, shaped by consistency, and reinforced through a remarkable alignment between product and message. From its early days in royal courts to modern-day exhibitions in New York and Shanghai, the company has approached communication as a reflection of its philosophy. Over nearly two centuries, Patek Philippe has maintained a consistent approach to communication – measured, stable, and aligned with the brand’s long-term perspective. The manner of Patek Philippe telling its own story is perhaps as interesting as its watches. We trace the way in which Patek Philippe has communicated over time, from introducing itself to the mind of the client, to adapting to a changing world, all while remaining aligned with its values. We also examine the brand’s choices in language and imagery, looking in particular to its early references to inheritance, which evolved into the familiar campaign that continued across decades. Launched in 2025, but perhaps enjoyed by many generations to come Foundations and Royal Recognition (1839–1877) When Patek Philippe was founded in 1839, the idea of advertising a luxury watch was almost nonexistent. Most manufacturers relied on trade reputation, medals at international exhibitions, and word-of-mouth among wealthy clientele. In contrast to today,...