Revolution
Introducing the Oris Hangang Limited Edition
Introducing the Oris Hangang Limited Edition. A new limited edition diver’s watch supporting a Seoul-based project to clean up South Korea’s mighty Hangang River.
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Revolution
Introducing the Oris Hangang Limited Edition. A new limited edition diver’s watch supporting a Seoul-based project to clean up South Korea’s mighty Hangang River.
Time+Tide
This year, TAG Heuer are celebrating more than a decade and a half of timing partnership with the celebrated NTT IndyCar Series, and are releasing a new special edition watch to mark the occasion. The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Indy 500 Special Edition was designed in close collaboration with the IndyCar team, and has a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Indy 500 Special Edition is a circle of blacktop for your wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
This year, the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 gets a contemporary makeover with a new grand feu enamel dial in blue.
Quill & Pad
The latest updates to the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantième focus on new aesthetic combinations mixed with a reduction in case size from 43 to 41 mm. Joshua Muchow likes them all, but has fallen hard for the Titanium Grey variation and explains why here.
Quill & Pad
If you’ve been lucky enough to travel to the “four corners” area of the southwestern United States (where U.S. states Utah, Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico “meet”), then you may have seen or even visited some of the cliff dwellings built by ancient native peoples. Read on to find out what we know about how this ancient tribe now known as the Ancestral Puebloans kept time and why.
Deployant
Jaquet Droz updates its Grande Seconde Off-Centered Chronograph with a new Black Onyx dial and it looks exceptional. Perhaps not the most sought after brand in today's obsession with brand equity and residual value, Jaquet Droz provides another proposition in the line of its products. The monopusher chronograph with retrograde date is one such timepiece.
Time+Tide
A few years back, I remember interviewing Jean-Claude Biver and asking how he thought smartwatches would impact the traditional watch industry. Biver insisted the innovation was positive, saying that he believed smartwatches “will bring the attention of young people back to the wrist”. In other words, they would persuade a new generation to start wearing … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Apple sold nearly 10 million more watches than the entire Swiss watch industry in 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
A fun watch by Swatch (is there any other Swatch?), see-through case, semi-transparent straps, with vivid new colors – from electric yellow, neon green, orange fluo and azure blue. This is the Chief Editor’s personal watch – in azure blue, which Swatch calls BLUEINJELLY. He talks about it. Swatch Big Bold Jelly BLUEINJELLY The messageRead More
SJX Watches
Originally a series of highly-complicated, extra-large watches for men, the Royal Oak Concept line up has grown to include a handful of women’s watches, including the brand-new and extremely striking Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon. Powered by a hand-wound tourbillon movement, the Royal Oak Concept for women combines the traditional, faceted Concept with the granular Frosted Gold finish conceived by an Italian jeweller for Audemars Piguet, along with a distinctive new dial style of stacked, concentric rings. Initial thoughts When this arrived in my inbox I was quite taken by the styling. Thanks to the shapes and simple finishes, the dial and hands have a clean geometric style that works surprisingly well with the angular Concept case. And the tourbillon serves a higher, aesthetic purpose, with the cage continuing the concentric-ring motif of the dial. With the men’s Concept watches being so large they don’t really fit well on most wrists (especially due to the integrated strap), the women’s Concept at 38.5 mm in diameter probably sits well on most wrists, male or female. Given AP’s mastery of case finishing and the typically high quality of its dials, I expect the watch will be gorgeous in real life. But also given AP’s aggressively high pricing for its watches, I expect this watch to be extremely expensive (prices were not available at press time). Stepped rings The most unusual feature of the new watch is the dial design, a first for the Roy...
SJX Watches
One year after the launch of its first collaboration with Japanese streetwear label A Bathing Ape (BAPE), Swatch has just announced the second edition of the Swatch x BAPE Big Bold. A limited edition of unknown quantity, the new line up is made up of three models, plus a more exclusive box set that Swatch has teased about but not yet announced. From left: Tokyo Black Multi Camo, Tokyo Grey Multi Camo, Tokyo White Multi Camo Initial thoughts The first Swatch x BAPE edition was made up of six watches, each dedicated to a different city, along with a sixth “global” model – resulting in six truly distinct designs, making the whole set desirable. On the other hand, the new edition pays homage to Tokyo, the birthplace of BAPE, and all three watches have the same design, namely a stamped camouflage pattern on the dial, making it arguably less interesting as a trio. The monochromatic dials accentuate the large 47 mm diameter, which is further emphasised by the copious negative space in the lower half of the dial. Though not as daring in terms of design as the first edition, the new Swatch x BAPE collection will probably be well received thanks to its affordability and fun styling. Tokyo White Multi Camo with copper dial and matching pin buckle Round two The new Swatch x BAPE watches are identical, except for the colours of the case and dial. The case is 47 mm and matte plastic, with the crown at two o’clock and an integrated silicon strap. The trademark BAPE camouflage...
Quill & Pad
Bond Roberts is a joint venture between Rob Fox of James J. Fox and Rob Ayala of Friends of Habanos. They refer to the operation as, “a transparent cigar exchange where technology, oversight, and member participation come together to offer the largest continuous selection of aged, vintage, and rare Cuban cigars to the global market in a secure trading environment.” Ken Gargett weighs in on the trustworthiness of the new operation.
Quill & Pad
Sabine Zwettler likes the flair of Norqain, a young, innovative brand bringing a fresh impulse by respecting the traditional values of the industry in general and Swiss codes in particular. She finds reading the time on this brand-new watch's unusual green dial with its charming scratches a real pleasure. What do you think?
SJX Watches
One of the details in the recent IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Edition Black Carbon that appealed to IWC collectors was the revival of the “fish” crown – an emblem used by the brand from the 1950s to the mid-2000s to indicate a water-resistant watch. In fact, the fish logo is significant enough that it is found not only on the crown of the new Big Pilot, but also in relief on the case back (pictured above). Fondly remembered by enthusiasts, the discreet “fish” was eventually replaced by the more brand-centric “Probus Scafusia” emblem, one of the official IWC logos. Behind the comeback of the “fish” is a little-known and rather amusing trademark battle that took place in Swiss courts and was reported on last year by FPC Review, a blog specialising in Swiss patent issues. The IWC fish logo was first registered by Richemont on July 22, 2016, but the Swiss Federal Institute of Intellectual Property (IGE, or sometimes by its French acronym IPI) rejected the registration due to the logo’s resemblance to the ichthys, a fish-like symbol with used in Christianity. The court reasoned that “the commercial use of the sign is likely to violate the religious sentiment of an average Christian”. Ichthys – derived from ιχθυς, which is Greek for “fish” – is an acrostic that spells out “Iesous Christos, Theou Yios, Soter”, or “Jesus Christ, Son of God, Saviour”. Early Christians in the second and third century AD used the ichthys, essentially a two-...
SJX Watches
With Baselworld 2020 cancelled and then some, Patek Philippe has been progressively rolling out its new launches, including a trio of “Grand Complications” in mid July (and hints of a brand-new complication at the end of the year). All three new complications are variants of existing models, with the crowd favourite being the Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph. The new ref. 5370P-011 has a blue grand feu enamel dial and replaces the original, black-dial model that made its debut in 2015 as the ref. 5370P-001. The ref. 5370P-011 The cal. CHR 29-535 PS Initial thoughts The only thing new about this version of the ref. 5370 versus the first-generation model is the colour of the enamel dial. So everything that was good about the original model (classical design, dial and case quality, movement aesthetics), remain good. Needless to say, so do the weaknesses (mismatched finish on seconds hand, details of movement decoration). The balance assembly Though not a dress watch, the original ref. 5370 was dressed in black-tie colours of black and silver that gave it a stately bearing, but also a slightly old-fashioned feel. With the enamel dial in blue – it’s a gentle, muted blue – the new ref. 5370 looks more modern and casual, which is a good thing if you’re looking for something less formal. The outside Though a large 41 mm in diameter, the case of the ref. 5370 reproduces the proportions of the ref. 1436, a split-seconds chronograph that was in production from ...
Revolution
Revolution makes a case for why the world can always use another Speedmaster and why the new Speedmaster Alinghi could very well be a future collectable.
Two hometown outfits team up for a new version of a classic.
Hodinkee
A new dial for one of the core references from CFB.
Time+Tide
You’d be forgiven for not really caring about whether or not there’s been any new watches released this year – there are definitely more serious matters at hand. But, nevertheless, watchmakers have continued doing what they do best and there have been a plethora of great timepieces unveiled. Now, we’re not going to attempt to … ContinuedThe post 5 watch releases that you might have missed in 2020, including a $200k+ Omega tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Twenty-seven … that’s how many watches Grand Seiko have already unveiled this year. And that’s not really an accurate statement – 27 new watches have been released to the Australian market. If you include limited editions, boutique editions and models from other regions, the number is closer to 40. The wheels may well have fallen off … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGE253, SBGE257 and SBGE255 – 3 GMTs with colour, curves and cutting-edge tech appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The new PanoLunarTourbillon by Glashütte Original is an elegant limited edition of 25 pieces featuring a hand-engraved dial, a flying tourbillon, and skeleton hands.
WatchAdvice
The modern gentleman is someone who tries to experience life to the fullest. For some, the glory is the destination, but for others who truly experience life, it’s about the journey reaching that destination and the many different experiences that come along the way. Always being open to trying new things, the modern man finds innovative ways to get the most out of his life. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Collection released in 2018 was created to complement this lifestyle by being an elegant yet sporty watch that can do it all. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Polaris Collection was inspired by their iconic Memovox Polaris watch from 1968. The Polaris Collection will join the brands’ exiting pillars which consist of; Reverso, Master Collection, Rendez-vous, Duometre and Hybris Mechanica. Jaeger-LeCoultre, however, didn’t only create one timepiece as a homage to the 1968 Memovox Polaris. They used the aesthetics, design cues and spirit of the 1968 timepiece to bring to life five new timepieces that form the overall Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Collection. These timepieces are the three-hand automatic, chronograph, chronograph world time and two models that have very close ties to the original Memovox Polaris; the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox. What we have on our hands is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph in steel. The Polaris Chronograph comes in three variants; black dial, blue dial and a pink gold version. The black and blue dials a...
The wandering hours complication gets a snazzy new chassis.
Time+Tide
Digital watches remain an overlooked part of the watch world, forgotten by many who consider themselves to have ‘graduated’ to mechanical watches. But as we saw in Part 1 of this series where we looked at some of the best new releases in the last 12 months or so, there are a number of seriously cool … ContinuedThe post 10 of the best digital watches you can buy in 2020, Part 2, including a cold Casio classic for 20 bucks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Project 248 is the working title for Struthers Watchmakers' first in-house, handcrafted movement. It features a new improved English lever escapement, picking up where the British industry left off in the late nineteenth century. Colin Alexander Smith reports extensively on the project whose first run of five watches has already sold out.
SJX Watches
Contemporary yet traditional, the Pano collection has been a staple of Glashütte Original’s offerings. The latest Pano wristwatch is a departure from the line’s typically clean styling – the PanoLunarTourbillon Limited Edition. Limited to 25 watches with a platinum case, the new watch is a variant the standard tourbillon model, dressed up with impeccable engraving on the dial and movement. Initial thoughts With hand-engraved filigree decoration across the dial (and movement, this is easily one of the most attractive in the Pano collection, more so than the standard PanoLunarTourbillon. Similar to the decoration usually found only on the balance cock of Glashütte Original movements, the engraving is made up of pronounced lines and a complex pattern, giving the watch a markedly different character from the standard model. The hand engraving was executed in Glashütte Original’s dial factory in Pforzheim And the look is further enhanced by the metallic blue of panorama date, hands, indices and moon phase, a blue-on-silver livery that provides a sharp and elegant contrast. While the look is elegantly ornate, it’s a big watch, clocking in at 40 mm wide and 13.10 mm tall, probably a bit too big for a watch of this style. The case size suits contemporary tastes, but something thinner and perhaps 38 mm in diameter would work better with the design. German aesthetic Underneath the decoration, the watch is identical to the standard PanoLunarTourbillon. It retains the a...
Time+Tide
Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch of 2020 didn’t go down quite as well as the complicated models that have followed this week to practically unanimous praise. By contrast, the Calatrava Ref.6007A-001, limited to just 1000 pieces and made to celebrate the legacy brand’s new manufacture was met with many more brickbats than bouquets. Why? Well, according … ContinuedThe post A design that divides – the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.6007A-001 meets its lookalikes head on appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Despite being only 18 years old, De Bethune has managed to create a surprisingly large number of unique and emblematic case designs, along with a slew of complications and movement innovations. But its signature case design is probably the DB28, a large, thin watch with a pair of sprung, pivoted lugs. For the 10th anniversary of the DB28, De Bethune has slimmed it down to create the DB28XP. Significantly thinner and slightly more wearable, the DB28XP is still instantly recognisable for what it is. Dial detail of the DB28XP Starry Sky Initial thoughts The DB28XP is a smartly conceived watch because it manages to capture everything that made the DB28 special, except in a thinner case that feels more refined and is clearly more elegant. The original DB28 wasn’t excessively thick, but the DB28XP is substantially thinner, thin enough it feels a little like a sci-fi dress watch. The DB28XP wears sleek and light, with the “floating” lugs hugging the wrist comfortably, while the aesthetic is clearly quintessential De Bethune, which means polished or heat-blued titanium. And though it’s slimmer than the original, the DB28XP is still executed to the same level of quality, down to the smallest of details. The teeth of the barrel ratchet wheel of the movement are polished, for instance, while the hands are either polished titanium or pink gold, depending in the version. The original DB28 (top) and the DB28XP But the DB28XP is a little fancier than the original in design, with...
Hodinkee
Just in time for summer, a new sport watch and resort wear collection.
Time+Tide
One of the brightest and most dynamic minds in the world of watchmaking, Aldis Hodge, has been appointed as a Trustee of the Horological Society of New York today. His is a name that should be well known to Time+Tide readers, through his interview with Andrew McUtchen in the latest edition of NOW Magazine (of … ContinuedThe post Renaissance Man Aldis Hodge is appointed to America’s oldest watchmaking guild HSNY appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
After an extended absence, Patek Philippe’s signature perpetual calendar chronograph is once again available in yellow gold with the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001. The new watch joins the platinum and rose gold versions currently in the catalogue, and is the first perpetual calendar chronograph in yellow gold since the ref. 5970J was discontinued in 2009. Initial thoughts The very first Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph powered by an in-house movement, the ref. 5270 was introduced in 2011 but remains under appreciated, primarily because it isn’t one of the earlier perpetual calendar chronograph that are regarded as “iconic” (namely the refs. 5970, 3970, 2499 and 1518). But the ref. 5270 is excellent, or at least very good, in most tangible aspects. It’s a well-made watch with a smartly-constructed, modern movement inside robust-yet-elegant case of that sort that Patek Philippe excels at. And functionally it is also excellent, especially with the slightly larger calendar windows. Admittedly the movement finishing is not quite artisanal, but it is on par with other high-end brands that produce watches in substantial numbers, like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. It does costs more than what the competition charges for an equivalent watch, but the value of the Patek Philippe brand is tremendous. The ref. 5270J adds the option of a far more classical look to the line up. The combination of a silver dial and yellow gold case is the ...
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