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New: Louis Moinet Tourbillon Puzzle Fire Horse
Another Chinese New Year watch - this time by Louis Moinet who puts a métiers d'art image of a fire horse in their Tourbillon Puzzle watch.
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Deployant
Another Chinese New Year watch - this time by Louis Moinet who puts a métiers d'art image of a fire horse in their Tourbillon Puzzle watch.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Explore the best dive watches from microbrands we’ve worn, reviewed, and compared over years of real use. Honest pros, trade-offs, and picks worth your time.
SJX Watches
Having already launched it in yellow gold and then white gold, Piaget has logically followed up with the Polo 79 Two-Tone. While very much predictable, the Polo 79 Two-Tone is arguably the best looking of the trio with its retro combination of metals that are yellow and white gold, and not steel. The new Polo 79 is otherwise identical to its predecessors, right down to the cal. 1200P movement and “slotted” construction of the case and bracelet. Initial thoughts The Polo 79 Two-Tone isn’t a surprise but it’s a good looking watch that has more appeal than its single-colour counterparts. The combination of yellow and white gold feels distinctly 1980s and true to the spirit of the watch. Though not imaginative, the Polo 79 is solidly executed in any of its forms. The case and bracelet are done well, while the cal. 1200P is a tried-and-tested workhorse that is also impressively thin; it’s a little industrial but acceptable overall. The cal. 1200P The fact that the two-tone model is two colours of gold, rather than steel and gold, is a nice touch. But that means it is expensive, even more expensive than the single-tone versions that are already pricey. This costs US$91,000, while the yellow gold model is US$77,000. The price premium doesn’t really make sense since it’s essentially the same thing in terms of gold value and finishing (though it is arguable that white gold costs a little more than yellow). The Polo 79 line-up Polo glamour The two-tone Polo is hardly a...
Fratello
Today, we go hands-on with a watch from one of my favorite small brands. Atelier Wen rarely misses a beat with its releases, and the new Millésime Perception Xuán is no exception. As we’ll see, it uses a familiar platform but trades engraving for stoneworking. Plus, for those who struggle with the idea of a […] Visit Hands-On: The New Atelier Wen Millésime Perception Xuán to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean has represented a sweet spot in the now-sprawling Seamaster collection, a rarely achieved intersection between extra-rugged build and unapologetically luxurious design. The latest revamp of the two-decade-old series, which launched in late 2025, doubles down on both while also striving for new levels of comfort and wearability. Here’s a closer look, starting at the beginning. [toc-section heading="Origins of the Seamaster Collection"] Omega began making watches in 1848 (originally as La Genérale Watch Co.) and for its milestone 100th anniversary, a few years after the end of World War II, the brand founded by watchmaker Louis Brandt launched the first watch by the name of Seamaster. Not really a “dive watch” as we’d define that term today, it was marketed as a watch for “town, sea, and country” - i.e., a gentleman’s dress watch that just happened to be more waterproof than any other such timepiece of that era. (Omega had been dabbling in making wristwatches water resistant for more than a decade at that point, having released the Marine, below, an early divers’ watch with a sealed, rectangular double-case design, as early as 1932.) What distinguished the Seamaster from its contemporaries was its adoption of an innovative, O-ring-gasket device that sealed the crown into the case to prevent moisture from entering. Omega had developed that design for the tool watches it made for the British armed forces during wartime,...
Fratello
It’s been nearly a year since we’ve heard from Chase Fancher and the team at Oak & Oscar. Here we are, though, in late January with an exciting, albeit highly limited, new release. Hopefully, the Humboldt ExP-02 foreshadows an increased level of in-house production capability. For now, let’s take a look at the watch! I […] Visit Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Humboldt ExP-02 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
No bones about it: Rado's latest take on its ceramic integrated bracelet stunner is its first-ever skeleton dial, which feels appropriate.The post Rado goes “fully anatomical” with the Anatom Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
We have come to know CIGA Design for its original takes on classic watches. In particular, the Blue Planet series has received much praise from critics and fans alike. Late last year, the brand treated us to its Everest Summit Central Tourbillon, the second iteration of CIGA Design’s most ambitious release to date. For this […] Visit Introducing: The Captivating CIGA Design Time Cipher to read the full article.
Deployant
The king of collabs Manuel Emch strikes again! This time at Art Genève with artist Monica Bonvicini. Here is the watch to be known as NOT FOR YOU.
Monochrome
As the 86th Hahnenkamm Races took over the legendary slopes of Kitzbühel, Austria, in January 2026, we were invited by Longines to attend one of the most iconic events in alpine skiing and to sit down with Patrick Aoun, who stepped into the role of CEO of Longines in June 2025. Founded in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, […]
Monochrome
Hanhart’s history is tied to pilots’ chronographs, and the so-called “Moby Dick” occupies a special place in the brand’s story. Most vintage 417 chronographs came with dark dials, but a very small number were produced with white dials for civilian use. Over time, fans adopted the nickname “Moby Dick” because of their appearance and rarity. […]
Time+Tide
Chanel's purchase of a 30% stake in Kross could prove to be its most significant watchmaking investment so far.The post Chanel looks to hone its high-end know-how with investment in Kross Manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Welcome to another instalment of Back To Basics, our series aimed at newcomers to our lovely shared passion. This installment does not cover one specific theme. The aim is rather to provide novice watch enthusiasts with some broadly applicable tips and mindset advice. Where do you start? How do you start? What mistakes can we […] Visit Back To Basics: Expert Advice For Novice Watch Enthusiasts to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
There’s a “don’t change it if it ain’t broke” mentality in Swiss watchmaking. Progress is slow, and it often seems that there’s a general distrust of change. An example of this is in the mechanical movements that power most of our watches. Chances are, you have at least one watch with an ETA 2824 or a movement based on the 2824 in your collection. If you’re like me, you have several. For Swiss-made watches of a certain price point, they are the standard. They are “workhorses” that, while not the most feature-rich, offer reliability and serviceability. And part of the reason for that is that the design has been around, largely unchanged, since the 1970s (the 2824-2, which is the current standard, was released in the 80s). That is, until 2013, when ETA launched 80-hour movements based on the 2824-2. First debuted in a Tissot as the Powermatic 80, ETA nearly doubled the 2824’s power reserve by slowing the escapement’s frequency from 28,800bph to 21,600bph, introducing synthetic components, and increasing the mainspring’s capacity. The biggest update to the 2824 format in a generation (though they no longer use that numbering), as ETA is part of Swatch, these movements gave the group’s catalog of brands under Omega an unexpected edge in the market, but were not available to third-party brands, thus limiting their overall impact. The ETA 2824 featured in a Sinn 556i In 2003, Sellita began supplying movements to third parties as a response to Swatch’s...
Fratello
This was the first time I had ever seen one of Qian GuoBiao’s watches in real life. I’d never seen one at watch shows, quickly behind glass, or even in a passing moment at a collector event. I’ve long admired Master Qian’s watches through my laptop screen, but this encounter with his Split-Seconds Chronograph was […] Visit Hands-On With Qian GuoBiao’s Split-Seconds Chronograph to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Review of the Rdunae RA02 military field watch, exploring its design, small-case proportions, practicality, and place in a watch collection.
Monochrome
Simple solutions to complex problems could well be Dr Ludwig Oechslin’s overriding philosophy. Former curator of the Musée international d’horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Oechslin studied archaeology as an undergraduate and obtained a PhD in Philosophy – with a scholarship to study theoretical physics and astronomy – and became a Swiss master watchmaker in 1983. Bringing […]
Monochrome
Independent watchmaker Qian GuoBiao continues to expand the horizons and appreciation of indie horology from China, building on the foundations laid by earlier pieces like the Facing the Sky 2.0 and Double Balance Wheel. His latest creation, the Split-Seconds Chronograph, is another step forward. While the Double Balance Wheel explored harmony through the synchrony of […]
Fratello
What a strange question. Why would the Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda, a new interpretation of the Swiss brand’s 50s Presidents’ Chronograph Heritage model, only be interesting for Real Madrid fans? Why wouldn’t the socios of Atletico Madrid, Barcelona, or fans of other football clubs outside Spain want this retro-looking chronograph on the wrist? Perhaps it’s […] Visit Hands-On With The New Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) has formally inaugurated the Arc Manufacture in its historical home of Le Brassus. Designed by de Giuli & Portier of Geneva, the 23,700-square metre building will accommodate 700 employees under one roof - a number that would have been almost unheard of in the days of the historical établissage system. It connects to, and partially wraps around, the existing Manufacture des Forges, which was completed in 2008 and housed around 300 employees - an impressive figure for its time. The expanded manufacture should ultimately help boost production, especially considering it was designed with Industry 4.0 in mind. In other words, it’s a smart factory. This includes a Goods-to-Person (GTP) automated sort and retrieval system which uses 66 robots to pick the needed components, which are then delivered by robotic shuttle. While such systems are already used by high-volume luxury watch brands like Rolex and Omega, few haute horlogerie brands have the volumes to justify such an investment. According to AP, the GTP system saves an average of 15 seconds per operation. But more than scale, the new manufacture should deliver higher quality of product – namely superior reliability and less defects – across AP’s offerings. Like other new manufactures of its type, the Arc is extremely energy efficient as well thanks to 321 metres of electrochromic glass, which can automatically change opacity to regulate the amount of light, and heat, allowed in. The building...
SJX Watches
Episode 27 of the SJX Podcast opens the archives to find the most impractical and illegible watches that somehow still manage to be worthwhile despite the triumph of form over function. It’s a difficult formula to get right, and the landscape of fine watchmaking is littered with examples of watches that sacrificed too much at the altar of fashion. But those that strike the right balance are especially memorable. SJX and Brandon also discuss a couple of emerging independents from as far afield as Japan and Finland. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Deployant
Patek Philippe reopens its Singapore Service Centre at the same location in Wheelock Place. Here is a brief of the newly renovated premises. Press Release.
Fratello
A few hours from now, when a Rolex clock strikes 1:40 PM GMT-5, we’ll hear the roar of engines on Daytona International Speedway - a polyphonic roar made up of 60 engines across four categories. We’ll hear the raw howl of the GTD and GTD Pro categories, familiar supercar sounds. Bee-like, buzzing overtones, emanating from […] Visit The Rolex 24 At Daytona Endurance Race Returns Today - With Rolex Daytonas Awaiting The Winners to read the full article.
Fratello
Ask yourself: why do you wear an analog watch in the digital world? Before you answer this, think beyond prestige, status, or luxury. Also, go deeper than the history of wristwatches, the mechanical movements and complications you admire, and the models you desire. Instead, think about wearing a mechanical watch in your digitally dominated world. […] Visit Why Do You Wear An Analog Watch In A Digital World - The Psychology Behind It to read the full article.
Monochrome
Undeniably, recent years have seen a transformation in mechanical watchmaking, surprisingly in both directions. While traditional brands have gone up in price quite drastically, we have seen quite a change on the other side of the spectrum. What once required thousands of euros can now be had for a fraction of that: finishing, materials, in-house […]
Time+Tide
The new time-only watch from the legendary designer's namesake brand brings some Swiss flair to its catalogue in two types of gold.The post Gérald Genta gives Genevan inspiration for its latest time-only creation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The pursuit of perfection is what drives many watchmakers to venture out on their own. But what perfection means can be different for each and every one of them. New to the independent watchmaking scene, and in a literal pursuit of perfection, is Mermont and its debut La Parfaite watch. Founded by Sebastian Bey-Haut and […]
Deployant
Grand Seiko's Tokyo Time pop up is a curated experience where it immerses the audience in the dynamic contrast of Japan's capital with the Maison's watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
"Made in America" is a label that is much rarer to find on products now than it was 100 years ago, and that is especially true when it comes to watches. Once a bustling industry in the U.S.A., watchmaking largely migrated away from its traditional American hubs in the early 20th Century to countries like Switzerland and Japan, which still import oodles of watches to the States every year. However, American watchmaking has been seeing a slow, somewhat quiet renaissance over the past couple decades as a new generation of trailblazing entrepreneurs, from all across the U.S., strive to bring the horological trade back to these shores. Each of them takes a slightly different approach; some, like RGM, make nearly the entirety of their watch, including the movement, in the U.S., while others, like Shinola, import the majority of components but assemble the watches in an American factory, providing dozens or hundreds of local jobs. Here we take a look at 25 notable American watch brands, spotlight their leading models, and briefly examine how "Made in America" each one really is. [toc-section heading="RGM"] Founder: Roland G. Murphy Headquarters: Mount Joy, PA Notable Models: Pennsylvania Series 801, Pennsylvania Tourbillon, 801-A “Aircraft” “RGM” are the initials of Roland G. Murphy, the trained watchmaker and former Hamilton Watch Company technical manager who founded his own watch brand in Lancaster County, PA, one of America’s ancestral watchmaking centers, in 1992...
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we look at some of the most memorable watches created in collaboration with video game franchises. As most of you will know, gaming has grown into a massively successful global industry. As a result, there is a massive audience for watches connected to the many video games out there. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Video Game Watches - Featuring Hamilton, Seiko, TAG Heuer, And More to read the full article.
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