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Seiko Brings the 6R54 GMT Caliber to the Alpinist Family Worn & Wound
Seiko Brings Sep 1, 2023

Seiko Brings the 6R54 GMT Caliber to the Alpinist Family

Seiko introduced a new caliber back in March via their Prospex GMT Diver collection, adding caller GMT functionality into the brand’s well understood contemporary dive watch platform. Those watches have generated quite a bit of chatter in the watch community, with many singing their praises with respect to overall fit, finish, and wearability, and others wishing for a more functional flyer GMT complication. While the dust might still be settling, Seiko marches on, with the latest crop of watches to feature their still new 6R54 GMT movement. This time, Seiko brings the movement to the Alpinist family, which seems like a natural place for a GMT equipped watch to land. It takes what has always been cast as an explorer’s watch (with its signature compass bezel) and gives it a modern, practical, mechanical complication for a different kind of exploration.  I’ve always been a pretty big fan of the Alpinist for many of the reasons Blake identifies in his Missed Review. There’s something charmingly anachronistic about wearing a watch designed with such an old fashioned aesthetic (those cathedral hands, especially) but built to modern sports watch standards. With a GMT complication added, the Alpinist retains a lot (maybe all) of that old fashioned charm, just slightly tweaked. The Explorer-style steel 24 hour bezel gives these watches a clean and sporty look, and we still get the trademark handset and those big numerals (just at the cardinal positions here, rather than ev...

Sotheby’s Fine Watches Auction: Zach picks 5 lots to keep an eye on Time+Tide
Sep 1, 2023

Sotheby’s Fine Watches Auction: Zach picks 5 lots to keep an eye on

Watch collectors love the hunt for their next watch, and auctions are a great place to find the next dream reference you desire. Sure, it can be intimidating at times, with high-profile lots going for exorbitant amounts of money, but these auctions typically have very large catalogues with hundreds of lots. For example, the upcoming … ContinuedThe post Sotheby’s Fine Watches Auction: Zach picks 5 lots to keep an eye on appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter is one of the Strangest Releases of the Year Worn & Wound
Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter Aug 31, 2023

The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter is one of the Strangest Releases of the Year

Geneva Watch Days, like any big trade event in the watch industry, means a cluster of brands with new releases, all vying for the attention of the public, and of watch media. The “novelties” that are unveiled during these things are often just that, in the sense that these new releases are perhaps not representative of what a brand will usually produce. They are meant to grab headlines, start conversations, and garner immediate reactions. They’re novel. This year, Doxa showed us that they know how to play the game, with a new watch that quickly became a hot topic all over Watch Internet: the SUB 300β Sharkhunter. What we have here is a SUB 300 in a black ceramic case with 18K gold accents on the bezel and crown. No Doxa has ever expressed this particular kind of understated nightlife vibe ever before, for better or worse. Doxa seems to be leaning into it – their press copy says this watch was built to defy dress codes. Now, I’m an American, an elder millennial, and I feel like I’ve been defying dress codes for as long as I’ve been a functioning adult (I’ve been told we killed Business Casual – you’re welcome). But for some, subverting a dress code might be a serious transgression, and for them, Doxa has a watch made just for you.  The strange thing about the SUB 300β Sharkhunter, beyond the fact that this is a Doxa with solid gold components, a rare occurrence but not unheard of, is the visual impression of the dial. This watch, believe it or not, ha...

The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package Time+Tide
Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic Aug 31, 2023

The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package

For Geneva Watch Days 2023, Alpina has released two regular -production tribute versions of the tank-style Alpiner The Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years offers vintage looks with modern appointments Two dial variants are available: two-tone silver (US and international), and black (international only) For Geneva Watch Days, Alpina is looking back with the release … ContinuedThe post The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bulgari weaves golden threads into their new Octo Finissimo CarbonGold collection Time+Tide
Bulgari weaves golden threads into Aug 30, 2023

Bulgari weaves golden threads into their new Octo Finissimo CarbonGold collection

The new CarbonGold variants go back to 1993, the first time Bulgari combined high-tech with traditional luxury Extremely light due to their full carbon construction, the models are highlighted in 18k rose gold Ultra-thin is the name of the game, with both the automatic and perpetual calendar movements measuring in under 3mm For Geneva Watch … ContinuedThe post Bulgari weaves golden threads into their new Octo Finissimo CarbonGold collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Maurice Lacroix Takes their Urban Tribe Design to a New Level with a Limited Skeleton Version Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Takes their Urban Tribe Aug 25, 2023

Maurice Lacroix Takes their Urban Tribe Design to a New Level with a Limited Skeleton Version

One of my favorite things about working in the watch industry is the capacity this strange little world still has to surprise. Just when you think you’ve seen everything, you’re reminded that you most definitely have not, and in fact you might just be scratching the surface. I love getting press releases about watches I don’t expect, particularly when they come from brands that I thought I knew and understood. Enter: Maurice Lacroix. If you know Maurice Lacroix at all, you probably know them as the brand behind the Aikon, an integrated bracelet sports watch that bears a certain resemblance to another much more sought after and much more expensive watch with a similar footprint. The Aikon, though, has proven to be a worthy blank canvas for many of Maurice Lacroix’s most interesting ideas over the years, and a new version, an update of a design first seen in 2021, takes that to a new level.  The Aikon Urban Tribe Skeleton is lie no other Aikon before it, except the Aikon Urban Tribe, which featured a similar series of engravings along the case walls and throughout the bracelet. The Urban Tribe’s calling card (for both the 2021 version and this new reference) is the elaborate case engraving. It’s unusual enough to see a well known Swiss brand dabble in engraved cases to begin with, and it’s even more unusual for those engravings to seemingly live in the world of tribal tattoos and similar motifs. But that’s not all – these designs are inspired by urban arch...

Christopher Ward Introduces The Twelve in a Smaller, 36MM Case Size Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Aug 24, 2023

Christopher Ward Introduces The Twelve in a Smaller, 36MM Case Size

Over the last few years, the watch-buying public has made known its seemingly insatiable appetite for sport watches with integrated bracelets – and smaller ones at that. In response, brands from Alpina to Zenith have given it their best shot. Today Christopher Ward fires the latest salvo in this movement with The Twelve, now in all of its 36mm glory. Introduced in April of this year, The Twelve is Christopher Ward’s interpretation of the integrated bracelet sport watch, and the new release changes little other than its dimensions. Front and center is still the eponymous dodecagonal bezel, which is mirrored on the caseback with three types of finishing: brushed, sandblasted, and highly polished. The 36mm case features screwed-in crown guards and remains 9.95mm thin. Lug-to-lug distance is now 40.8mm (likely not including the male end links), and water resistance is still 100 meters. At launch, you can choose from four dial options: Nordic or Glacier Blue, Alta White, and exclusive to this smaller size, Frosted Lichen (mint green). Inside beats the same Sellita SW200-1 that lives inside the non-titanium 40mm variants of The Twelve, but the date feature has been removed. CW claims keeping the date on this variant would have necessitated omitting the 6 o-clock hour marker entirely, something the brand elected not to do in order to preserve simplicity. Retail price is $1,225 on a bracelet and $995 on a tapering rubber strap. CW has stated that this new 36mm size is agender ...

Farer Launches the New Tonneau Collection, with Colors Inspired by European Cities Worn & Wound
Farer Launches Aug 24, 2023

Farer Launches the New Tonneau Collection, with Colors Inspired by European Cities

British brand Farer’s latest collection is an ode to form and aesthetics. Called the Tonneau Collection, the three watches each show that style doesn’t have to lack substance; but can, in fact, be a jumping-off point for great design and a reliable watch. As the name denotes, each watch within this collection has a barrel-shaped, rounded rectangle case, mixing clean lines and smooth curves all in one. At just 35mm, it’s a watch that balances comfort on the wrist while still having a covetable presence when worn, and this is due in part to the particular color combinations that Farer used for the collection. Each of the three color options embody the spirit and energy of a particular city: Milan, London, and Paris. Milan’s vibrant emerald fumé dial is a callback to green-glazed ceramics that traversed the ancient world and still has a timeless sophistication – just like Milan. The emerald green is paired with polished silver batons, a stainless steel case, and a rich brown St Venere leather strap to balance the urbanity of the Northern Italian city. London is a nod to the Mod era of the 1970’s, with Farer being inspired by two-handed watches of this time period. With clean lines and a ridged pattern around the face, one can appreciate the geometry that goes into a well-designed timepiece. The dominant colors (or should I say colours) of this watch are blue, white, and red, each perfectly in balance to not compete but complement one another. The London model is ...

Archimede Celebrates their 20th Anniversary with a Special Edition of their Outdoor Protect Worn & Wound
Aug 23, 2023

Archimede Celebrates their 20th Anniversary with a Special Edition of their Outdoor Protect

I will always have a soft spot for Archimede. Fun fact: an Archimede chronograph was the first video review I ever shot for Worn & Wound. This has always been a brand that offers a noticeably higher quality product than many of its competitors within its price point, largely riding on the strength of the incredibly well machined Ickler cases. Now, for the brand’s 20th anniversary, they’ve issued a limited run of their popular Outdoor Protect sports watch with a hardened DLC case and a small Easter egg that drives home the “outdoor” theme of the hybrid sports/field watch.  While Archimede is known primarily for their traditional pilot watches, the Outdoor line veers into a style more in line with funky sports watches from the 1970s. The case has a lugless design and gentle curves, and is one of those designs that just looks like it’s going to be comfortable when you get it on your wrist. Over the years, Archimede has updated the Outdoor in various ways, offering new case sizes, and adding a chronograph complication, but the basic gist of the watch has always been simple, sporty legibility with just a little bit of 1970s funk. The “Outdoor” moniker underscores the watch’s durability and the intention behind it: to be used as part of an active lifestyle. They didn’t call it the “Office” for a reason.  For the new limited run of Outdoor Protects seen here, Archimede has sand blasted the case, which measures 39mm, with a black DLC coating that gives the ...

HANDS-ON: The Briston Streamliner Urban and its retro-modern inspiration Time+Tide
Cartier Baume & Mercier Aug 23, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Briston Streamliner Urban and its retro-modern inspiration

After working for lofty brands such as Cartier, Baume & Mercier, and Zenith, Brice Jaunet needed to forge his own path. Briston was founded to be the culmination of his experience, as well as a blend of French and British styles to represent both his homeland and university days. Small watch brands can sometimes struggle … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Briston Streamliner Urban and its retro-modern inspiration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Glasgow’s Paulin Returns with the Modul, Available in Quartz and Mechanical Versions Worn & Wound
Casio nal collaborators Aug 21, 2023

Glasgow’s Paulin Returns with the Modul, Available in Quartz and Mechanical Versions

For watch enthusiasts, some big news out of Scotland this month: Paulin Watches, the Glasgow based brand that this year marks a decade in business, has been acquired by anOrdain, fellow Glaswegians and occasional collaborators. This, quite obviously, begins a new chapter for Paulin, a brand that has long been a favorite of ours here at Worn & Wound for their quirky and contemporary designs. The reboot happens under the watch of Imogen Ayers, a founding member of the anOrdain team, and Paulin’s Creative Director. Right out of the gate, they’ve introduced a new watch that signals a new direction, offering some hints about where the brand is heading.  The new watch, dubbed the Paulin Modul, is so named because it was inspired by the very concept of modular design. The Paulin team, having sourced a variety of unused vintage movements and not being certain of what types of calibers they’d have access to in the future, wanted to create a watch that could accommodate those different movements. This is a fairly radical idea, as anyone who has lamented slightly changed (usually increased) case dimensions following a movement “upgrade” in a product line can attest. For the Modul, the movement, dial, and hands are placed within a watertight, steel inner case, which is then attached to a steel outer case via a pair of screws on both sides. The cushion shaped case measures 35mm in diameter and is just 8.2mm tall.   To drive the modular point home, the Modul is available wi...

Now in the Shop: Three Small Mother of Pearl Aquis from Oris Worn & Wound
Oris The Aquis is Oris’ vision Aug 20, 2023

Now in the Shop: Three Small Mother of Pearl Aquis from Oris

The Aquis is Oris’ vision of what a modern dive watch should be. WIth its sleek and functional design and stainless steel case, the Aquis is a staple in their lineup. Until now, the Aquis has clocked in at a bold 43.5mm in diameter. The integrated bracelet / strap design made this size challenging to wear for smaller wrists, but worry no more. Brand new from the brand is a trio of Aquis timepieces in a manageable 36.5mm case diameter. Let’s take a closer look at what makes these new offerings from the brand so exciting. The Aquis is Oris’ vision of what a modern dive watch should be. WIth its sleek and functional design and stainless steel case, the Aquis is a staple in their lineup. Until now, the Aquis has clocked in at a bold 43.5mm in diameter. The integrated bracelet / strap design made this size challenging to wear for smaller wrists, but worry no more. Brand new from the brand is a trio of Aquis timepieces in a manageable 36.5mm case diameter. Let’s take a closer look at what makes these new offerings from the brand so exciting. The post Now in the Shop: Three Small Mother of Pearl Aquis from Oris appeared first on Worn & Wound.

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Divers That Break From Convention Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster 300 reference 2231.50.00 Aug 18, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Divers That Break From Convention

The dive watch genre is rife with great watches, and many stick to a tried and true formula that was first devised in the early ‘50s with the advent of recreational diving. It’s evolved a bit over the generations, but what made for a great dive watch then, largely still makes for a great dive watch today. Their broad popularity stretches far beyond the bounds of the actual diving community, as the features that make a great dive watch also happen to make them great everyday companions for those that prefer life on dry land. But that doesn’t mean they all have to abide by the same set of rules.  In this Inside the Collection episode, I take a look at 3 dive watches that march to the beat of their own drum in some way, shape, or form, and eschew the established design codes of the genre. You’re probably familiar with one or two of these watches, as we’ve discussed two of them at length before (here, and here), but all three come together to say something important about my own collection, and how I view watches regardless of their label. The Omega Seamaster 300 reference 2231.50.00 seen here will be the subject of an upcoming Missed Review, in which we’ll further explore this era of the famous diver, and some of the ways the collection has diversified itself over the generation. This is watch that’s always found it’s own path, for better or worse, and not only does this specific reference represent something special within the collection, it represents somet...

[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Copper Dial Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38 Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38 There’s not Aug 16, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Copper Dial Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38

There’s not much left to say about the resurgence of the integrated bracelet sport watch and the many modern iterations we’ve seen on the theme. Some have history, many more don’t, and it certainly hasn’t gotten any easier to decipher the unique elements that make one stand out from another. I’d argue that this comes down to execution which, when paired with a historically relevant and idiosyncratic approach, tends to produce the best example of the genre. Though that’s not a rule, merely a subjective observation. One of the more peculiar examples of this is the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, a watch that was released smack in the middle of the ‘70s, designed by an Italian architect, and has experienced a slightly tumultuous lineage, all leading to this graceful 38mm reference with copper dial.  The Laureato has an interesting and varied history, yet is often absent from the discussion around great sport watches of the ‘70s. It wasn’t designed by Gerald Genta, like the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Ingenieur watches of the same era, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t have a great origin story. Similarly to those other watches, the original design holds up remarkably well today, and Girard-Perregaux has preserved the core of the Laureato admirably, though some less than flattering eras to boot. $14900 [VIDEO] Hands-On with the Copper Dial Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38 Case Stainless Steel Movement GP03300 Dial Copper Clous de Paris Lume Super LumiNova Lens Sapphi...

Ollech & Wajs Issues the OW 56 M, a Limited Edition Made from Mostly New Old Stock and Up-Cycled Components Worn & Wound
Aug 15, 2023

Ollech & Wajs Issues the OW 56 M, a Limited Edition Made from Mostly New Old Stock and Up-Cycled Components

We’ve seen a number of compelling releases from Ollech & Wajs in the years since the brand was relaunched, but the new OW 56 M is something genuinely different, and not simply another plumbing of the back catalog. At a glance, the OW 56 M resembles any number of other Ollech & Wajs releases. It has a brutish charm about, presents as a true tool, and is without any unnecessary adornment. But this watch sets itself apart with the literal components it’s made from, with a number of the watch’s parts being new old stock or refurbished from an earlier Ollech & Wajs era.  The 38mm case used for the OW 56 M has been upcycled from stock originally acquired by Ollech & Wajs in the 1990s. While the brand doesn’t provide exact manufacture dates for the cases, they say they were acquired in the late 90s, but made “several years earlier.” If that puts the manufacturing period at sometime in the late 80s or early 90s, we’re looking at cases that are right on the edge of vintage. The design of the case itself is straightforward, and right in line with the brand’s pilot watches that date back to their inception in 1956.  The movements are ETA 2824, and are taken from OW’s unused stock. All movements used for the 56 M have been serviced and reconditioned after a prolonged period of sitting on the proverbial shelf. Of course, the ETA 2824 is one of the most reliable workhorse movements, with untold thousands in working without incident over many decades, so it’s quite ...

Oris Releases the Dat Watt Limited Edition II, their Second Collaboration with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat Worn & Wound
Oris Releases Aug 14, 2023

Oris Releases the Dat Watt Limited Edition II, their Second Collaboration with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat

The latest release from Oris, and one that highlights their ongoing Change for the Better initiative, is a sequel of sorts to a watch that became a cult hit when it was released in 2021. The Dat Watt Limited Edition II is very much in the same vein as the original Dat Watt Limited Edition, but with a few twists to make this new LE its own thing. Its release comes alongside an announcement from Oris that they’ve extended their relationship with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat (CWSS) by another two years, the organization that works to protect the Wadden Sea, which provides the inspiration for the new watch.  The Wadden Sea covers 11,500 square kilometers in northern Europe, and includes shoreline in Denmark, Germany, and the Netherlands. This intertidal zone is a unique geographical space in that it happens to be the world’s largest unbroken tidal flats system, and is in a largely undisturbed state, thanks in part to the efforts of the CWSS. Because of the area’s size and the fact that it has been so well protected, it’s an important area for the study of the 10,000 species that live there. The Wadden Sea has held UNESCO World Heritage Site status since 2009 based on its importance to global biodiversity.  Like the first Dat Watt Limited Edition, this new release uses the Aquis diver as a platform, here in its 43.5mm footprint. The dial’s green tone is inspired by the waters in the Wadden Sea’s salt marshes, which act as critical natural storage for CO2. Thi...

[VIDEO] Review: the Sublimely Sage Ressence Type 8S Worn & Wound
Ressence Type 8S There Aug 14, 2023

[VIDEO] Review: the Sublimely Sage Ressence Type 8S

There is a big difference between seeing a watch at a trade show, meetup, or boutique and living with one. In the former experiences, it’s very easy to be immediately taken with something. The energy of the environment, the thrill of trying on watches, perhaps a champagne or two, create a level of excitement that overlays everything you touch and see. As such, the watches we get to experience in these shows need to be taken out into the less flattering light of the real world to truly know if that excitement was genuine, or just a by-product of the situation in which they were introduced. One brand I’ve always been very taken with, especially when I’ve gotten to handle their wares at Watches and Wonders, is Ressence. For those unfamiliar with the Haute-independent brand, it was founded by Benoît Mintiens in 2010 with the goal of rethinking how a watch displays time. The solution found didn’t recreate the wheel, though it did heavily modify it. Utilizing a patented module design called the Ressence Orbital Convex System or ROCS, Mintiens, an industrial designer by trade, eliminated the use of classic hands. Instead, the whole dial becomes an active surface for telling the time with satellite sub-registers floating within a larger, always-in-motion, display. In 2022 they unveiled the Type 8, their simplest and lowest-priced model. The following year, they introduced it in a lovely, pale green and called it the Type 8S, for sage. Both years I left their booth a bit g...

Everything you need to know about dial finishing Time+Tide
Aug 14, 2023

Everything you need to know about dial finishing

When you look at a watch, what’s the first thing you notice? Do you immediately comment on the movement, or perhaps case finishing? Of course not – it’s the dial. No matter how nice the movement is, or even how suitable the dimensions are for your wrist, the dial is the likely the one to … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about dial finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor once again proves the brand is more than just a pretty face Time+Tide
Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor Aug 13, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor once again proves the brand is more than just a pretty face

It may come as a bit of a surprise, but I often compare Rolex and Cartier due to a strong commonality. Yes, they are very different brands with very different products. But an element I believe they do share is a very key point. Watch enthusiasts often point out that Rolex practises incremental updates. The … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor once again proves the brand is more than just a pretty face appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.