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In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronogr... Jan 11, 2022

In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’

When Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 260th anniversary in 2015 with the Harmony collection of cushion-shaped watches, the standout was easily the split-seconds chronograph. Seemingly ordinary on its face, the Harmony split-seconds was powered by the cal. 3500, an all-new rattrapante chronograph calibre with a novel automatic winding mechanism. The movement was gorgeous, but disappeared from the catalogue – until last year. The cal. 3500 made its comeback with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Like the other Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) watches, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is a limited edition – only 15 pieces in fact – that utilises platinum generously throughout the watch, but it is unique as there is no standard production equivalent in the catalogue. In short, it is a special watch. The cal. 3500 with its intricate chronograph mechanism and novel peripheral rotor Initial thoughts On its face, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is an elegant watch with a restrained, almost simple style. Its proportions are wide and slim, creating a graceful profile. The thinness exaggerates the case diameter slightly, so it does seem a bit wider than it is, especially with the longish lugs. In typical CEP style, the dial is nearly monochromatic, rendered in grey and silver, with the only colour coming from the indicator hands for the chronograph and power reserve. It’s a simple combination, but a good one. The pla...

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Bremont Broadsword Jet (#19) Time+Tide
Bremont Broadsword Jet #19 Editor’s Jan 5, 2022

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Bremont Broadsword Jet (#19)

Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic in our best radio DJ voice. At number 19, it’s the Bremont Broadsword Jet… While there are … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Bremont Broadsword Jet (#19) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface Deployant
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Open... Jan 3, 2022

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface

The complete calendar is a complication that is, in itself, a sum of other complications, namely the day, date, month, and moon phase. Not to be confused with the triple calendar (which does without the moon phase), the complete calendar is one of horology’s most practical and poetic displays. In the realm of luxury watchmaking,Read More

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Magic Gold (#26) Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Dec 26, 2021

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Magic Gold (#26)

Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic in our best radio DJ voice. At number 26, it’s the Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Magic … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Magic Gold (#26) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in The Sky (#27) Time+Tide
Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle Dec 25, 2021

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in The Sky (#27)

Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic in our best radio DJ voice: at number 27, it’s the Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in The Sky (#27) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic (#28) Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic Dec 24, 2021

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic (#28)

Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team boldly endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic in our best radio DJ voice: at number 28, it’s the innovative spirit of the … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic (#28) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Seiko SPB217J (#29) Time+Tide
Seiko SPB217J #29 Editor’s note Dec 23, 2021

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Seiko SPB217J (#29)

Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by web traffic in our best radio DJ voice: at number 29, it’s the Seiko SPB217J. It’s always hard to … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Seiko SPB217J (#29) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Rainbow is drenched in multicoloured gems Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Dec 23, 2021

The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Rainbow is drenched in multicoloured gems

Rainbow watches are possibly the most divisive sub-genre around. They’re loud, they’re blingy, and the word ostentatious barely even begins to cover them. Yet no matter how many people swear they would never be caught dead wearing one, I would bet that there’s a nagging voice in the back of everyone’s minds just wishing to … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Rainbow is drenched in multicoloured gems appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Norqain Neverest Night Sight (#30) Time+Tide
Norqain Neverest Night Sight #30 Dec 22, 2021

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Norqain Neverest Night Sight (#30)

Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic in our best radio DJ voice. At number 30, it’s the Norqain Neverest Night Sight… In my … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Norqain Neverest Night Sight (#30) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Why asymmetrical running seconds drive me crazy Time+Tide
Dec 18, 2021

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Why asymmetrical running seconds drive me crazy

Taste is subjective, we all have our individual preferences – therefore what irks me may not necessarily irk you. But What Tweaks My Tourb is all about the horological features and quirks that make me shudder. You may well totally disagree with my views in this series and I wholeheartedly welcome that too. In a marketplace … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Why asymmetrical running seconds drive me crazy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Wristshots And Online Watch Photography: The Saga Continues, And, Yes, There’s Instagram Too Quill & Pad
Dec 18, 2021

Wristshots And Online Watch Photography: The Saga Continues, And, Yes, There’s Instagram Too

How time flies! It seems like only yesterday that GaryG penned an article about wristshots. But that was back in 2015. And in 2017 that he posted thoughts and images on how to – and how not to – take watch photographs for sharing. It seemed to Gary that it's about time for an update on both – as while some things remain the same, much has changed.

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe 1518 “Pink on Pink” Sells for US$9.57m SJX Watches
Patek Philippe 1518 “Pink Dec 9, 2021

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe 1518 “Pink on Pink” Sells for US$9.57m

Widely regarded as the best “pink on pink” 1518 ever to emerge, the ref. 1518 once owned by Prince Mohammed Tewfik A. “T.A.” Toussoun of Egypt lived up to expectations and then some, having just sold at Sotheby’s in New York for US$9.57 million including fees. While almost 300 ref. 1518s were produced, only about fifth of them were in pink gold, with the majority in yellow gold. And just 14 are “pink on pink” with salmon-toned dials matched with a pink gold case. The 14th “pink on pink” ref. 1518 known, this was consigned by the heirs of the late prince, who passed away earlier this year aged 95. He was a first cousin to the the last King of Egypt, Farouk I. The prince pictured in the 1970s The prince was the original owner of this ref. 1518, which he bought on July 25, 1951 according to the certificate that accompanied the watch – which makes it the only “pink on pink” ref. 1518 with its original certificate. The watch remained in his possession since then, seemingly hardly worn, explaining its near-pristine condition. All those factors combined to create a tremendous interest from bidders, almost a dozen of them, all on the phones with Sotheby’s representatives. Bidding was easy and enthusiastic at the start, with one bidder making a million-dollar jump from two to three million, presumably in an attempt to deter the competition. It didn’t work and though there were just a handful of bidders past the five-million mark, the proceedings contin...

Minase Watches’ first American tour exposes the craftsmanship of the cult Japanese brand Time+Tide
Minase Dec 6, 2021

Minase Watches’ first American tour exposes the craftsmanship of the cult Japanese brand

How do you communicate true quality? It’s a question that many brands face as they try to capture the attention of collectors today. For big brands, the difficulty of such a task gets alleviated by the pull of history and immense marketing budgets. Yet, for a small brand, trying to make its mark in the … ContinuedThe post Minase Watches’ first American tour exposes the craftsmanship of the cult Japanese brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca) Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Dec 2, 2021

The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca)

Wear and tear often bolsters the appeal of a vintage watch. Picture a chronograph dial aged to a warm tropical hue, or a diver’s watch shadowed with caramel patina. Rather than signs of decay, such well-worn details are celebrated as adding character and authenticity. Like the laughter lines on an old man’s face, they’re testimony … ContinuedThe post The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The new issue of NOW Magazine is available now (which is fitting…) Time+Tide
Nov 12, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The new issue of NOW Magazine is available now (which is fitting…)

Three years ago, on a sultry November evening in Melbourne, we threw a launch party for our first Issue of NOW Magazine. It was in a world – if you can put your best movie-trailer voice on for me – that knew nothing of pandemics, or social distancing. My memories of the night are crowded. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The new issue of NOW Magazine is available now (which is fitting…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch Sells for US$5.2m SJX Watches
Nov 5, 2021

Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch Sells for US$5.2m

One of the most anticipated sales during Geneva’s watch auction week just concluded with a big number – the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for CHF4.749 million, or about US$5.2 million, including fees. While bidding was steady, it was restrained. Three bidders were the key movers behind the result – a phone bidders represented by Yong Ho and Alex Ghotbi of Phillips in Hong Kong and Geneva respectively, as well as an online bidder in Singapore. At the end it was down to the Singaporean buyer and Mr Ghotbi’s phone bidder, who clinched the watch with a hammer of CHF3.9 million. I wrote just earlier this week that I expected the Grande Sonnerie to sell for between US$4.0-5.0 million, so the result was well within my expectation. While there was talk of a far higher number prior to the sale, a variety of factors led me to that range, including the number of known potential buyers as well as the values of comparable watches. And that was how it turned out.  

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021” SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Nov 4, 2021

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021”

Inspired by German “rolling eye” clocks of the mid 20th century, the Joker is now Konstantin Chaykin’s trademark wristwatch. But the Russian watchmaker’s repertoire is far more diverse than the googly-eyed face – watches that tell the time on Mars are another of his specialties. For Only Watch 2021, Mr Chaykin has combined the two concepts in the Martian Tourbillon. The robotic clown face indicates the time and calendar on Mars, while the back reveals a one-minute tourbillon that makes one revolution every Martian minute. Initial thoughts The Joker Selfie Mr Chaykin created for Only Watch 2019 was not merely a simple variation of the standard model, illustrating both Mr Chaykin’s creativity and his desire to put together something genuinely special for the event. With most watches at Only Watch 2019 being variations of existing models, the Joker Selfie was notable for being unique in a technical sense. The watch had a built-from-scratch complication, a new base movement, and even a novel case material (which is being used once again for this year’s creation). The case is Bulat, a high-carbon, patterned steel alloy Once again Mr Chaykin has put together a truly one-off watch for the biennial charity auction. It is impressive and ingenious, with a Martian complication that’s synonymous with Mr Chaykin. Despite all its novelty, it is easily recognisable as a Chaykin wristwatch. Like its predecessor, the Martian Tourbillon has a unique complication, albeit o...

My top five watches from WatchTime New York 2021 Time+Tide
Oct 27, 2021

My top five watches from WatchTime New York 2021

Imagine walking into a building and coming face to face with some of the biggest brands and independent watchmakers in horology. Well, that’s exactly what I was lucky enough to do last weekend while attending WatchTime New York. It’s an annual event located within the vast Grand Ballroom of New York City’s Gotham Hall. It … ContinuedThe post My top five watches from WatchTime New York 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Inspired by a classic motorbike, the Ollech & Wajs OW350CI is the wheel deal Time+Tide
Oct 25, 2021

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Inspired by a classic motorbike, the Ollech & Wajs OW350CI is the wheel deal

The thrum of the horizontally opposed twin engine spins into a whine when the traffic lights go green. It’s a beautiful spring day in Sydney and the old BMW motorbike is in its element as I wind along a coastal road, with stunning views of the Pacific Ocean flanking the cliffs.  I look down and … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Inspired by a classic motorbike, the Ollech & Wajs OW350CI is the wheel deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Vintage Patek Philippe – and One Special Day-Date – at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 9, 2021

Highlights: Vintage Patek Philippe – and One Special Day-Date – at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

With Sotheby’s Hong Kong sale just around the corner, we’re rounding up a half-dozen notable vintage watches from the auction, primarily big-ticket Patek Philippe complications. Amongst them a few oddities, one a Patek Philippe ref. 3448 “Senza Luna”, a perpetual calendar with the moon phase omitted, and the other the Rolex Day-Date with a  “Submariner” dial. With the preview exhibition open daily from now till October 12, the auction will take place on October 13. The catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2265: Patek Philippe ref. 130 The oldest watch of the selection is a Patek Philippe ref. 130, the brand’s first serially-produced wristwatch chronograph that remained in the catalogue for over three decades. The model’s longevity makes it an inevitability that a good number of ref. 130 variants exist. Indeed, the model varies greatly in terms case material and dial design, with some combinations being rarer than others. One such rare combination is a steel case with “sector” dial, like the present example. Made by Wenger, the steel cases of the ref. 130 have shorter and wider-spaced lugs compared to the gold cases that made by Vichet, giving the 33 mm case a more imposing appearance Chronograph wristwatches from that era typically feature tiny counters that sit close to the edge of the dial, leaving the dial clean and distinctly vintage. But the “sector” dial here is an entirely different animal – the sect...

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): No Consensus Highlights The Strong Competition Quill & Pad
Oct 8, 2021

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): No Consensus Highlights The Strong Competition

Complication abounds in the 2021 GPHG Calendar and Astronomy category: two perpetual calendars – one of which is of world record-holding thinness – a complete calendar with chronograph, a clever day-date that you can’t help but smile at, a mind-blowingly beautiful moon phase watch, and the world’s smallest planetarium. And our panel members all (well, nearly all) have different favorites to win!

MICRO MONDAYS: Three things collectors still get wrong about microbrands Time+Tide
Sep 20, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Three things collectors still get wrong about microbrands

I remember a time when many within the watch community spoke of microbrands like they were some passing phase – an unfortunate result of someone with too much time on their hands and not enough sense. To these pundits, the watches that microbrands were offering would always be lesser-than anything a major, established brand could … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Three things collectors still get wrong about microbrands appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.