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4,404 articles · 20 videos found · page 54 of 148

(Hands-On) Is The King Seiko VANAC HKF002 Triumphant In Titanium? WatchAdvice
Seiko VANAC HKF002 Triumphant 6 days ago

(Hands-On) Is The King Seiko VANAC HKF002 Triumphant In Titanium?

The retro-futuristic lines of the King Seiko VANAC give it character, but does the titanium frame elevate it to modernity? Let’s find out! What We Love: Angular, geometric case Strong but lightweight presence Finishing makes titanium interesting What We Don’t: Accuracy still a touch behind modern standards Thickness could have been toned down Is loud design ostentatious? Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 “A jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one” is one of the most commonplace sentiments of modern life. It governs almost everything, from the clothes we wear and the careers we pursue to the books we read, the media we consume, and the food we eat. In this chapter of modern watchmaking, the sentiment is much the same. We love a watch that can go anywhere and do anything, removing the burden of decision from our already overcomplicated lives. But is the burden of choice really such a bad thing? Is it truly more valuable to have broader appeal than a deeper one? Some say no. Thus, there’s been an uptick in maximalist design principles throughout the watch world. Being good at everything doesn’t have to be the only selling point anymore; Rather, watch designs are turning back towards specialisation in form and function to make for a more compelling case. That’s exactly what Seiko did when they revived the King Seiko VANAC collection in 2025. A model line d...

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Hands-On: The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Hodinkee
Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo 6 days ago

Hands-On: The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo

"The first two days, almost nobody came to see us. We were very anxious," Carlo Crocco, the founder of Hublot, tells us, casting his mind back to Baselworld in 1980, when he stood in a booth with a single window displaying a single gold-cased watch on a black rubber strap. "On the third day, we realised that everyone was speaking about us, because it was really something different from all the other watches." We are sitting together in Milan on the eve of the Classic Fusion Tributo launch, which Hublot presents as a return to that very first design. After spending time with it in the metal, I would argue the most interesting thing about it is how firmly it refuses to be a reissue. At a time when brands can reproduce their back catalogues down to a 3D-scanned dial, Hublot has presented an evolved expression of its first watch, combining it with a design language that's taken shape over four decades. That decision makes more sense when you consider where Hublot stands today and why this watch is arriving now. Since Julien Tornare took over as CEO in late 2024, the brand has been working through a deliberate reset, investing in its Nyon campus and its movement strategy and reworking the Big Bang twice this year, with Tornare signaling early on that a Classic Fusion built around the Italian elegance of its founder would follow. The two things Crocco focused on for the Tributo, the twelve screws and the black rubber strap, are precisely what make it read as the original at a gl...

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Hands On: A Historical Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar Wristwatch from 1927 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar Wristwatch from 6 days ago

Hands On: A Historical Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar Wristwatch from 1927

The early days of the wristwatch were interesting for the variety of forms and functions that were conceived as watchmakers were experimenting with a nascent device. One such watch is the Audemars Piguet triple calendar with moon phase in platinum from 1927 that’s one of the top lots in Monaco Legend’s upcoming sale. Now almost 100 years old, this triple calendar exemplifies the period when wristwatches, particularly complicated ones, were expensive and cutting-edge objects. Form cases in general seem to have been fashionable when wristwatches were a novelty. Leaving aside the round “trench” watches used by soldiers, many of the landmark wristwatch designs for civilians were in form cases. Examples include the Cartier Tank, Santos, and Tonneau. Many such wristwatches were time only, but there was clearly a tiny handful of clients for complicated wristwatches. Calendar watches, many in form cases, were also in vogue. Most prestigious watchmakers produced such watches, albeit on a tiny scale in a near-artisanal manner, making each of these watches almost unique. Breguet, for example, sold a tonneau-shaped retrograde perpetual calendar in 1935 to Coco Chanel’s romantic partner. Audemars Piguet made fewer than 50 such rectangular triple calendar wristwatches in the 30 years from 1924, and this is the one example known in platinum. All of these watches were powered by the cal. 10GHSM, as this one is, save for the very first example that was made in 1924 and now reside...

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Hands-On: The Alto ART 02 Hodinkee
Cartier Oct 27, 2026

Hands-On: The Alto ART 02

Only a few degrees of separation separate the worlds of watches and cars. A passion for vintage motorsports first brought together Alto founder Thibaud Guittard and Raphaël Abeillon, now the brand's creative director, who spent a decade designing watches at Cartier. Contemporary art is perhaps slightly more removed from watches, but it's an inspiration and theme that has run through most of Alto's early pieces, particularly the limited-edition collaboration of its ART 01 with renowned French sculptor Bernar Vernet. Now Alto is going (just) a touch more mainstream and slightly less avant-garde with the launch of its ART 02, an important piece for the nascent marque that heralds the first watch in its permanent collection. The ART 02 continues the themes and design of the ART 01while refining and updating the original piece at a more approachable price. Available in an initial run of about 150 pieces in Grade 5 Titanium with a new matching bracelet, the watch signals that Alto is ready to play in the big show, and it debuted at Geneva Watch Days 2026 alongside more than 70 other brands. It was my favorite new watch of the show.  It's damn hard to stand out in the crowded integrated-bracelet sports watch category, but Alto has done this from the start and has furthered its distinctive design elements in the ART 02. Almost no one presents a faceted sapphire glass like Alto does. Severe angles and beveled edges make the crystal a standout feature for the Alto 02. There isn't ...

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Hands On: Rolex Ref. 6062 Triple Calendar Moon Phase in Steel SJX Watches
Rolex Ref 6062 Triple Calendar Oct 27, 2026

Hands On: Rolex Ref. 6062 Triple Calendar Moon Phase in Steel

Monaco Legend Auctions is closing the year with one of its biggest auctions to date, with one of the top lots being a stellar Rolex ref. 6062 Oyster triple calendar in steel with gold-tone indices. An eighty year-old watch that feels original and honest, this ref. 6062 is only on its second owner in all that time, adding to its appeal. Already a rare watch in itself, this specific ref. 6062 stands out for its condition. It appears to have been worn carefully over the decades, while also having avoided being facelifted or enhanced. And of course this is an Oyster, meaning the case is water resistant, which no doubtlessly helped to preserve the dial. As a result, this ref. 6062 possesses its original details, including the shallow engraving on the case back and twin textures on the dial. Initial thoughts Though overshadowed by sports watches in the last decade, the triple calendar has long been one of the most desirable vintage Rolex models. And Rolex recently revived the concept with the Perpetual Padellone, which, despite the name, actually inspired by the ref. 6062 Oyster rather than the ref. 8171 “Padellone”. The ref. 6062 coming up in Monaco Legend’s auction at month’s end is one of the best examples to hit the block in some time. It’s in steel, which makes it more valuable than the equivalent gold model. And this has  known, traceable provenance – just two owners in some 80 years – and as a result of that, the condition is original, crisp, and appealing....

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Hands-on - Wren’s Unexpected Take on the Integrated Sports Watch, The Vessel Monochrome
Wren Oct 26, 2026

Hands-on - Wren’s Unexpected Take on the Integrated Sports Watch, The Vessel

If you’ve recently been following the buzzing micro-brand scene, you’ve probably heard about NYC-based brand Wren. Founded in 2024 by Craig Karger, who’s also behind Wrist Enthusiast, the brand has, for now, exclusively produced vintage-inspired dive watches. And yet, only two years after its creation, the brand has decided to revise its design language entirely and […]

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Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Calendar - With Diamonds And A Bracelet Hodinkee
Brew ers playing old-school small Oct 26, 2026

Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Calendar - With Diamonds And A Bracelet

"If you build it, they will come." It's the age-old quote about watchmaking, wrapped somewhat curiously in a sentimental movie about baseball, if I'm interpreting things right. A. Lange & Söhne is finally having its overdue moment among collectors for doing what it's always done: making beautiful, mechanically impressive watches with a more traditional, high-touch approach. Sticking with the baseball analogy, it's the Milwaukee Brewers playing old-school small ball and getting into the World Series. Nostalgia hits hard, and the one constant through all the years, Ray, has been watchmaking—or something like that. And yet, when you get down to it, something has been missing from the Lange lineup—a gap for true deep-cut collectors who begged for a certain something that disappeared from the catalog in the late 2000s. People yearned for bracelets, with the word Wellendorff hanging in the air long after the brand ended its partnership with the Pforzheim jewelry maker. When the Lange-loving Hodinkee team saw the new Datograph Perpetual on bracelet, in all its heavy glory, it was an impressive culmination of past and present. "It reminds of us of all that once was good and it could be again." “Wellendorff” Bracelets and the Secondary Market I was recently reminded that my first experience with an A. Lange & Söhne was one on a Wellendorff bracelet. I was attending a local RedBar meet-up when a noted collector of the brand walked up wearing a Datograph Perpetual in platin...

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(Hands-On) Does Raymond Weil’s Toccata Heritage Revive Accessible Dress Watchmaking? WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil s Toccata Heritage Revive Oct 23, 2026

(Hands-On) Does Raymond Weil’s Toccata Heritage Revive Accessible Dress Watchmaking?

Raymond Weil’s Toccata Heritage wears its inspiration on its sleeve, but is the flash backed up by substance? Let’s find out! What We Love: Elegant, flowing case Beautiful movement Incredible price point What We Don’t: Soft but fragile strap Power reserve feels low compared to on-paper Is luxury ever attainable? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 The definition of luxury is, for the most part, anyone’s guess. Maybe it’s the hundred-million-dollar, feature-laden superyacht crewed by Playboy models, or perhaps it’s something as mundane as a carton of eggs at the grocery store. I find that luxury is relative to one’s financial circumstances: a want that’s just slightly out of reach, not entirely necessary to one’s sanity or physical wellbeing, but something whose acquisition feels like reaching a new level in life. This is entirely different from a pipe dream, such as the aforementioned superyacht, but the watch world often treats the two as one and the same. Luxury watches aren’t often considered truly luxurious until they cross a certain price threshold, usually somewhere in the high four or five figures, if not six. But ‘accessible luxury’ isn’t quite the oxymoron the industry might have you believe, and Raymond Weil is proof. Since 1976, the independent watchmaker has sought to make traditional elegance more attainable, offering classically styled timepieces at comparatively acce...

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Hands On: Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Louis Vuitton’s Oct 23, 2026

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic

Louis Vuitton’s second instalment of its 1980s revival model is the Monterey Ceramic. Styled like its predecessor – both share a similar inspiration – the new Monterey is simpler in execution and consequently more accessible, if not quite affordable. Instead of 18k gold, the case is now ceramic, in either black or green, with a steel case back. That’s matched with a white lacquer dial that replaces the fired enamel of the gold model. A regular production model, the Monterey Ceramic nonetheless retains the proprietary movement from La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) that is a good example of high-quality industrial-haute horlogerie. Initial thoughts The original Monterey, or more accurately, montre, which is French for “watch”, was a distinctive and surprisingly timeless design by Italian architect Gae Aulenti. But it was not exactly a high-end watch. Today’s recreation, in contrast, is just that. While last year’s Monterey in 18k gold was pricey, the new Monterey dials back on the fancy materials, which reduces the retail price by about half. Considering the high-end Geneva-made calibre inside, this makes the Monterey competitive with traditional watchmakers. The look of the Monterey, however, is not traditional. The style was unorthodox when Aulenti penned it in 1988, and continues to be so now. The unusual case construction gives it a bulbous appearance. Though the case is only 11 mm high, it looks and feels taller, but that is arguably part of the charm. The Mon...

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Hands-On: We Put The Casio G-Shock 2500 Series "CasioNaut" Through Its Paces Hodinkee
Casio G-Shock 2500 Series CasioNaut Oct 22, 2026

Hands-On: We Put The Casio G-Shock 2500 Series "CasioNaut" Through Its Paces

This story has been republished from our friends at Hodinkee Australia. Photos by Georgia Griffiths and Jack Shepherdson. The worst-kept secret in affordable watches is finally out. Casio has just pulled the covers off what might be their most hype-worthy affordable watch since the G-Shock 2100 "CasiOak": the G-Shock 2500 series. We’ve been aware of this watch for a while now, as it was briefly leaked by Casio in Japan - so enthusiasts have already nicknamed it the "CasioNaut" thanks to its Holy Trinity sports watch-evoking case sides. But don’t judge this book by its cover: the 2500 has some tricks up its sleeve, beyond any passing resemblance to a much more expensive mechanical watch. Hodinkee ANZ has had the chance to wear, review, and put this CasioNaut through its paces this month ahead of its official launch, and we’ve got some key insights we’re keen to finally share. So, to start: the 2500 series is a fully analog G-Shock featuring no screens, digital readouts, or Bluetooth connectivity: just a two-handed central time display, a small seconds subdial, and a date display. Prices also start at less than A$300 (not A$100,000+ like the recently-released "Blue Rose Project"!) However, this isn’t just a time-and-date watch. (More on that in a second.) Firstly, it’s fitted with Casio's Shock Release Hand system (that debuted on the GA-V01 in April 2025), which holds the minute hand in place with magnets instead of a conventional mechanical post. Watch hands ar...

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Hands-On: Exploring Film Photography with the Nodus Obscura II Worn & Wound
Nodus Obscura II When you’ve Oct 20, 2026

Hands-On: Exploring Film Photography with the Nodus Obscura II

When you’ve been using the same camera and lens for literal decades, it can be hard to push yourself creatively and get out of your own habits. Shooting in all conditions becomes muscle memory, and even the trickiest shots can start to feel like just another snap of the shutter. So what is a hobby photographer to do? Well, if you’re me, you use the exposure gauge on the new Nodus Obscura II to challenge your idea of “correct”, and re-learn the act of shooting film in the process.  Let’s rewind a bit, first. Nodus is a Los Angeles-based microbrand established in 2017 who specializes in purpose-built watches. That may seem like a nebulous thing to claim as your hallmark, but it basically comes down to this: all Nodus watches are assembled, regulated, and tested in Los Angeles, and are intended to perform their stated function (or functions) at the highest degree, rather than offering a myriad of complications that could muddy a piece’s “purpose”. Their lineup consists of divers, pilot and sport watches, and GMT units. The star collection, though, is their Design Lab series, where the brand showcases watches designed and built in collaboration with other creators or brands. These watches push Nodus’ aesthetics, and introduce even more hyper-niche categories and use cases. The most innovative of the Design Lab watches is, of course, the Obscura II collaboration with Beers and Cameras.  Image: Nodus The first Obscura watch introduced Nodus’ patented exposu...

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Hands-on - The Lebois & Co Heritage Small Seconds, Three Ways to Wear Vintage Elegance Monochrome
Oct 20, 2026

Hands-on - The Lebois & Co Heritage Small Seconds, Three Ways to Wear Vintage Elegance

Founded in 1934 and revived by Dutch entrepreneur Tom van Wijlick in 2014 (who is also behind the return of Airain and its Type 20/21 pilot’s chronographs), Lebois & Co has gradually built its contemporary collection with watches inspired by the brand’s historical catalogue. Following the Heritage Chronograph, the Heritage Small Seconds takes a simpler […]

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(Hands-On) Is Zenith’s Chronomaster Revival A384 Terrific In Tropical? WatchAdvice
Zenith s Chronomaster Revival A384 Oct 19, 2026

(Hands-On) Is Zenith’s Chronomaster Revival A384 Terrific In Tropical?

Zenith’s latest addition to the Chronomaster Revival line directly references its heritage models, but can the beauty of age be replicated? Let’s find out! What We Love: Old-world cues in a sepia tone Retro yet wearable case profile Ladder bracelet perfect for hotter temperatures What We Don’t: Sharp clasp still needs improving No hacking seconds Be old or look old? Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 7.5/10 Just like us, watches get old. But vintage watches occupy the same space as old cars, Renaissance art, George Clooney and Anne Hathaway, in so far as they’ve aged gracefully. And while everyone wants a piece of that prime beauty, not everyone can get their hands on it. So too is the case for the original Zenith Ref. A384, first introduced in 1969 as the brand’s first-ever high-beat chronograph. Establishing the foundations for generations of Zenith watches to come, the A384 has since become a legend, rarely seen outside the upper echelons of vintage watch collecting. Getting your hands on one is near-impossible these days, as unfortunately we can’t rewind time to when their price tags was equivalent to peanuts. But what if we could fast-forward? That’s what Zenith asked itself when it introduced the Chronomaster Revival A384 in 2019. The first reference faithfully recreated the original A384 as if it had just rolled off the factory floor, with the iconic ladder bracelet following in 2020. This l...

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Hands-On With The Elegant IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34 Le Petit Prince! WatchAdvice
IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Oct 16, 2026

Hands-On With The Elegant IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34 Le Petit Prince!

The poetic world of Le Petit Prince meets the understated elegance of IWC’s compact Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34! What We Love: Beautiful integration of the Le Petit Prince for the first time in a Portofino model. Poetic day-and-night display Slim, elegant, and exceptionally comfortable What We Don’t: 34mm sizing limits its broader appeal No view of the movement Limited choice of suitable alternative straps Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 8.8/10 Wearability: 8.7/10 Design: 8.7/10 Build Quality: 8.8/10 IWC Schaffhausen’s Portofino collection is one that can seem overlooked at times. With collections such as the Portugieser, Ingenieur and Pilot’s Watches taking centre stage more often, the Portofino can feel like a line that frequently flies under the radar. For me personally, however, it remains one of IWC’s best-kept secrets. View this post on Instagram A post shared by IWC Schaffhausen (@iwcwatches) Unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2026 is the first-ever Portofino to feature IWC’s Le Petit Prince theme! The Portofino collection also has a distinctive design within IWC’s broader range, allowing it to stand entirely on its own. How this design originated is a story in itself, as the Portofino emerged during a period when the world of mechanical watchmaking was going through considerable turmoil. By the early 1980s, quartz watches were dominating the market, forcing IWC to explore different ideas that would make its mechanical timepieces appe...

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Hands On: Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo SJX Watches
Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Oct 15, 2026

Hands On: Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo

The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo returns to Carlo Crocco’s original 1980 design, when Hublot was the name of a watch made by MDM Genève. The Tributo’s 38 mm gold case restores the original 12-screw bezel, while a Zenith-derived automatic replaces quartz beneath an austere black dial. The yellow gold variant sticks close to the original design, while its white gold sibling pairs a black onyx dial with blackened bezel screws for a high-contrast monochromatic look. Initial thoughts While today Hublot is almost synonymous with the Big Bang and other large, sometimes extravagant watches, the brand’s origin as a single model made by MDM Genève is rooted in Italian elegance. The original quartz-powered model from 1980 was the first watch to pair a precious metal case with a rubber strap, a then-unheard-of configuration that was nonetheless perfectly suited to la dolce vita in the Italian sun. The Classic Fusion Tributo honours founder Carlo Crocco’s original design, complete with 12 bezel screws and a low-profile feel on the wrist, while being sized up to contemporary standards and equipped with a competent automatic movement courtesy of sister brand Zenith. The white gold version’s onyx dial, an upgrade relative to both the original and the black lacquer of the 2023 remake, is another difference that taps into the ongoing stone dial trend. But it does so in a low-key way that makes sense for the design and doesn’t feel faddish. Curiously, the yellow gold version s...

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Hands On: MB&F; LM1 EVO SJX Watches
MB&F; Oct 13, 2026

Hands On: MB&F; LM1 EVO

The MB&F; LM1 EVO brings back the original Legacy Machine (LM) in a smaller, sportier case, with improved shock protection, water resistance and a revised movement. Fifteen years after the LM1 established the LM collection, the EVO preserves its distinctive dual-time layout and suspended balance while making it more suited to the demands of daily wear. Initial thoughts I still remember seeing the LM1 for the first time when it launched in 2011. Up to that point, MB&F; had spent six years developing its identity around the futuristic Horological Machine (HM) collection, and the brand’s original take on traditional watchmaking came as a surprise. The LM1 established what is now the Legacy Machine collection, which began as a thought experiment about what kind of watch founder Max Büsser might have designed had he been born a century earlier. The original LM becomes the fifth MB&F; platform to get the EVO treatment, after the LM Split Escapement, LM 101, LM Perpetual, and LM Sequential (in both regular and flyback configurations). It follows the same script as its predecessors, with a polished titanium (or 18k rose gold) case, proprietary rubber strap, and the brand’s patented FlexRing shock absorber, which helps take the edge off severe impacts. The EVO case is also water resistant to 80 m thanks in part to twin screw-down crowns. Of course, it’s a manually wound movement, which means the threads will se a lot of action assuming the watch is worn regularly. Fortunately, ...

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(Hands-On) Do Glashütte Original’s Senator Chronographs Hit The Mark? WatchAdvice
Glashütte Original s Senator Chronographs Hit Oct 12, 2026

(Hands-On) Do Glashütte Original’s Senator Chronographs Hit The Mark?

Glashütte Original have finally expanded their Senator Chronograph line, but are they exactly what enthusiasts ordered? Let’s find out! What We Love: Clean, distinctive aesthetics Surprisingly wearable Impeccable movement What We Don’t: Issues screwing down the crown Flyback oscillates a lot when activated Can a dress watch dress down? Overall Rating: 9.5/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 As I mentioned during my visit to the Glashütte Original manufacture last year, the watchmaking town of Glashütte is a remarkably small place. This serves as a double-edged sword. On one hand, you’re able to take a comprehensive and condensed look at the defining history and characteristics of German horological craftsmanship. On the other, it’s all too easy for brands to be overshadowed by their next-door neighbours, even when they’re among the best in the region. Such has been the case for Glashütte Original. While I won’t get into the Ship of Theseus philosophical riddle underpinning the tug-of-war between them and their neighbour, A. Lange & Söhne, the Swatch Group marque has often found itself overlooked, somewhat unfairly so. In recent years, though, the narrative has changed. Drawing on its vastly accumulated and inherited knowledge, Glashütte Original has defined itself as a brand that stands apart from its competitors, in Germany and beyond. With fine craftsmanship, Saxon design and a surprisingly thoughtful p...

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Hands-on - The Updated Breguet Marine 5517, Navigating a More Classical Course Monochrome
Breguet Marine 5517 Navigating Oct 12, 2026

Hands-on - The Updated Breguet Marine 5517, Navigating a More Classical Course

Breguet’s maritime pedigree dates to 1815, when Louis XVIII appointed Abraham-Louis Breguet as watchmaker to the French Royal Navy. Although Breguet did not invent the marine chronometer (that was John Harrison), he improved its robustness and precision, enabling sailors to calculate longitude at sea more accurately. It wasn’t until 1990, though, that the brand tapped […]

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Hands On: Wren Vessel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Oct 8, 2026

Hands On: Wren Vessel

New York-based Wren has introduced the Vessel, an integrated-bracelet sports watch with an unusually elaborate sapphire crystal. Designed by Max Resnick under founder Craig Karger’s direction, its futuristic case and crystal mark Wren’s first departure from the dive watch format and help establish a broader identity for the brand. Initial thoughts The name Wren is a portmanteau of Wrist Enthusiast, the online watch publication founded by Mr Karger. The brand’s first watch, the Diver One, was introduced in 2024, and Wren has stuck to dive watches ever since. The Vessel, however, is anything but a diver. By venturing far beyond its initial design language, Wren has carved out considerable space in which to develop its identity. In doing so, Wren has taken a page out of the Berneron playbook with a sophomore effort that is almost as different from its debut as it could be. Perhaps because the look is so different, the Vessel features an aqua blue seconds hand and winding rotor to match the dial colour of the original Diver One. The Vessel’s design was penned by British designer Max Resnick under Mr Karger’s creative direction. Originally trained in automotive design, Mr Resnick has worked with several other small brands, including Anoma and VPC. The vision called for an integrated-bracelet sports watch that avoided channelling the same handful of historical designs from the 1970s. The resulting look has more in common with Alto than Audemars Piguet. The angular desi...

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Hands On: Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue SJX Watches
Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Oct 8, 2026

Hands On: Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue

The Bremont Supermarine Full Ceramic Deep Blue adds a dark blue ceramic case to the brand’s 500 m dive watch collection. It’s a more casual take on the Supermarine, with a restrained colour and carefully finished case that give the Sellita-powered diver a more stylish, less tactical character. Initial thoughts Sometimes it’s surprising how much difference a colour can make. In the case of the Bremont Supermarine, the navy blue hue of the ceramic case and bezel results in a look that is quite different from that of its black ceramic stablemates. The deep blue colour is very subtle, and to my eye looks less plasticky than some brighter blue ceramic competitors. The prominent texture of the brushing on the case gives it vaguely a metallic appearance, and it at a glance it could almost pass for PVD-coated steel. While ceramic is not a perfect material and can crack under extreme torsion or if dropped onto a sufficiently hard surface, the real-world benefits outweigh these edge cases. The natural scratch-resistance of ceramic pays dividends when changing straps, for example, as the spring bars cannot scratch the inside of the lugs when finding their seat. There’s also an ancillary benefit to ceramic, which is that service watchmakers will not be tempted to try to polish it. The Supermarine’s strengths lie in its finely executed dial and relatively slim case. The wave-inspired dial pattern is dramatic without being overpowering, while the 13 mm thickness and flat case ...

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Hands-On: The Wren Vessel Hodinkee
Anoma Oct 8, 2026

Hands-On: The Wren Vessel

It's not often that a microbrand makes a complete pivot in design language. In fact, I'd argue that it's rarely advisable. Once you've built an audience around your existing design codes, introducing a product with virtually zero overlap with what your customers already love is a massive gamble. But NYC-based microbrand Wren, created by Craig Karger of Wrist Enthusiast, has taken that risk today with a completely new design called the Wren Vessel. Last year, I spent some time with the Wren Diver 38 models, which stuck to the brand's singular design language centered around vintage dive watches. Not the most groundbreaking concept in the microbrand space, even if the watches are impressively specced for the price point. But I think it's quite interesting to see that the brand's ambitions are much higher than what it's currently offering, and today's new watch marks the next step for Wren. For this new watch, the brand teams up with designer Max Resnick, a watch designer with a background in automotive design who's done work for other microbrands like VPC, Traska, and Anoma. The final result feels quite original, despite the high-level concept of a modern, integrated sports watch being explored by many brands in many other ways. Wren logo aside, the Vessel shares almost no similarities with the rest of the brand's designs. The Vessel brings a new, integrated(ish) bracelet design that feels almost retrofuturistic in its silhouette, with a generally tonneau shape but executed ...

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Hands On: Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Oct 7, 2026

Hands On: Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater

The Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater returns with a transparent red mineral crystal dial and an updated movement, 12 years after the original introduced chiming complications to the brand. Combining a wearable case with a clear view of the striking racks, it makes a convincing addition to the more mechanically focused side of the collection. Initial thoughts After 12 years of minute repeaters and musical wristwatches, it’s easy to take Jacob & Co.’s presence in the category for granted. Working closely with external specialists, the brand has developed an impressive portfolio of striking watches in a remarkably short time. That repertoire encompasses the decimal repeater of the Twin Turbo Furious, the three-gong carillon of the Astronomia Maestro, and the combination of a music box and minute repeater in the Opera Godfather. These different approaches to sound illustrate the breadth of the brand’s ambitions and its relationships with specialist movement makers. We recently sat down with Jacob & Co. chief executive Benjamin Arabov to discuss how smaller watches like the Palatial have helped broaden the brand’s clientele. Mr Arabov admitted that he is affectionately known by some of his staff as the “size dictator”, due to his insistence on reducing dimensions while retaining the mechanical creativity. While the brand still makes a number of extremely large watches, the increase in smaller, more wearable options has attracted a new clientele...

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Hands-On: Traska Chronograph Tungsten Gray Hodinkee
Ming Japanese movements Oct 5, 2026

Hands-On: Traska Chronograph Tungsten Gray

It's funny the way a brand can sneak up on you. Maybe you hear the name on a podcast, and then, a few months later, you run into the brand at a watch fair, or on a friend's wrist. Still, despite repeated encounters, it's remarkable how a brand can continue to exist entirely outside your awareness. Until it doesn't. Until you somehow find a brand, or a watch, completely inescapable, unavoidable, inevitable. 18 months ago, I'm not sure I'd ever given an independent thought to Traska; today, that couldn't be further from the truth, and the brand's Chronograph (aptly named, the Chronograph) is the perfect example of why. If you don't yet know Traska, I don't blame you. Traska is just one of many small brands that have popped up over the last decade, and they've broadly followed a familiar formula: Kickstarter launch, followed by a slowly expanding stable of somewhat conservatively designed, three-handed sports and dive watches, all powered by reliable but unassuming Japanese movements, and all drawing a heavy dose of inspiration from well-known (but far less accessible) watch brands. So, if the broad strokes are familiar, where Traska has separated itself from the pack is in the details. For one thing, unlike so many other Kickstarter brands with similar stories who have come and gone with barely a whisper, Traska has stuck around and, each year, their watches have gotten better. I finally reached my tipping point with Traska last year, when I picked up a second-hand Venturer ...

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Hands-On: G-SHOCK Reveals The MRG-D5000 “Blue Rose Project” In Sapphire Hodinkee
Casio associates plopped down Oct 1, 2026

Hands-On: G-SHOCK Reveals The MRG-D5000 “Blue Rose Project” In Sapphire

Earlier this summer, I sat down in a fluorescent-lit meeting room in Yamagata, Japan, as a group of Casio associates plopped down a heavy box in front of me. I thought I was just going to Casio's Yamagata factory for a tour of the production line, but I had no idea that I was about to see something absolutely bonkers. Turns out, they were about to show me the watch released to the world today—G-SHOCK's first-ever production watch constructed out of sapphire crystal, in a limited edition of 20 pieces. Let's get to the important detail first—the new MRG-D5000 is priced at $80,000 (JPY 1.1 million). Is this the craziest new G-SHOCK we've seen in a while? Certainly yes. But is it surprising? Well, maybe not quite. The clues were kind of there all along. In the MR-G series, which already represents G-SHOCK at its highest end, the new Blue Rose Project stands out for its material choice and a price tag still an order of magnitude higher than even the most expensive typical MR-G models. If you're not familiar with the series, it's essentially G-SHOCK's flagship lineup: it takes the familiar digital module and durability specs demanded of G-SHOCK and combines them with a much higher level of materials and finishing, along with a much more complex construction. I've owned an MR-G (the MRGB5000R-1, to be specific) for a few years now, and I have to say that I'm a big fan. Yes, it's certainly one of the easier watch concepts to ridicule online, but these models feel extremely imp...

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Hands On: Raymond Weil Millesime Jubilee SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Millesime Jubilee Raymond Weil Sep 30, 2026

Hands On: Raymond Weil Millesime Jubilee

Raymond Weil kicked off its 50th anniversary earlier this year with the Fifty, a vintage-inspired limited edition chronograph powered by an appropriately historical vintage calibre. The party continues with the Millesime Jubilee, a larger but more accessible “panda” variant that borrows the Millesime’s “sector” dial and appealing “pump” pushers. Limited to 500 pieces, the Jubilee exchanges the vintage movement for a modern automatic calibre, and looses its predecessor’s white gold bezel. But it retains much of what made the Fifty attractive at less than half the price. The Fifty (left) with the Jubilee Initial thoughts Raymond Weil appears to be claiming renewed relevance after years in the wilderness. Established in 1976, it was one of the few watch brands founded during that difficult period to survive and prosper. Classical designs at accessible prices, backed by widespread advertising, made it a familiar name. At its peak in the late 1980s and early 1990s, the brand was selling some half a million watches per year. But the affordable luxury category became crowded, and Raymond Weil gave up ground to new entrants, languishing for a number of years. The Millesime has given the brand a more convincing identity, combining familiar vintage styling with unusually good attention to detail for the money. The Jubilee chronograph is no exception. The conical flange carrying the tachymeter scale is particularly appealing. Attractively snailed, it slopes gently tow...

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Hands-On: Seiko Alpinist GMT HBC007 Hodinkee
Seiko Alpinist GMT HBC007 Sep 29, 2026

Hands-On: Seiko Alpinist GMT HBC007

For the life of me, I can't remember if I've ever owned an Alpinist. I think I did, for a little while. I know I at least borrowed one for a while, but the Alpinist was never as central to me as it has been for a lot of watch guys of my vintage (by that, I mean collectors who got into this whole thing in the late 2000s). If I did own an Alpinist, it was a brief, flirtatious affair meant to satisfy curiosity before I found my way back to the SKX (a watch I have owned many, many examples of). Still, the Alpinist — specifically the SARB017 Alpinist with its green dial, compass bezel, and gold numerals — seemed as close to omnipresent as a watch could get in my early days of collecting and learning. They made daily appearances on wristcheck channels on forums, and their sudden appearance on one of my friends' wrists was a great sign that they were becoming properly watch-enthused. It's hard to quantify the Alpinist's impact, but here's the thing: while the Alpinist may not be the Seiko thatmost watch enthusiasts collect today, if you control for "dive watch," I'd hazard a guess it's at least close. And in an era when it felt like a Seiko was the price of entry to "watch enthusiast," it was a watch that mattered. And then, it vanished. Okay, that's maybe a little dramatic. The Alpinist had a long run, and like so many of the watches Seiko introduced in the '90s and '00s, it was eventually sunsetted and, a few short years later, replaced with something that looks awfully sim...

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