Results for Neo-Vintage

T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Breitling Jun 11, 2025

Breitling Superocean Heritage Review

The Breitling Superocean Heritage has been around since 2007 and stands as one of the brand’s most popular offerings due to its classical, vintage-inspired design and broad range of size options. The collection was updated in 2017, with the Superocean Heritage II, and in 2025 we have gotten the third major update to the collection that now includes improvements throughout as well as the use of the B31 movement. And perhaps most appealing is the long-awaited introduction of a 40mm case size. While Breitling refers to the Superocean Heritage as a “Sea Watch,” these are all as robust and resilient as any dive watch. There are a total of six watches in the new Breitling Superocean Heritage collection, all of which have 200 meters of water resistance: the 42mm chronograph outfitted with the manufacture Caliber 01; three time-and-date models in 40mm, 42mm, and 44mm case sizes outfitted with the B31 movement; and a 36mm time-and-date model outfitted with the Caliber 10 automatic movement. The sixth is a special limited edition done with surfer and longtime brand ambassador Kelly Slater, who co-designed a 40mm model. Before getting into these models, let’s discuss what’s new overall for this update of the Superocean Heritage. The Updates And Changes First off, you’ll notice the sharper hour markers and especially that new 12 o’clock marker, which has a circle with a sharp index cutting through it - a throwback to the original Superocean. I think this will likely b...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Glashutte Original Jun 4, 2025

Glashütte Original SeaQ Review

The Glashütte Original SeaQ debuted in 2019 alongside the German watchmaker’s then-new “Spezialist” family. The collection has grown to include the SeaQ Panorama Date, the smaller SeaQ 39.5mm, and the SeaQ Chronograph. I believe the SeaQ was the first new dive or sports watch from the brand since the Senator Sport Evolution from 2009. Inspired by the vintage Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 from 1969, the SeaQ has gone on to become one of the most lauded luxury dive watches out there. These are true luxury watches, though and they come with matching price tags. Still, the Glashütte Original SeaQ is one of the best options out there for someone with high standards but doesn’t want to join the sea (pun intended) of Submariners and Seamasters out there. There’s a funny quandary that reveals itself when looking at the SeaQ Panorama Date in comparison to the smaller SeaQ with the standard, less sexy date window. You can have the bigger case and the panorama date window or you can have the smaller case without the panorama date window. But, since you can’t have both, I made sure to add a section at the end with a brief comparative rundown of the SeaQ with the smaller 39.5mm case.  Glashütte Original SeaQ Case Let’s start with the SeaQ Panorama which comes in at 43.2mm wide and 15.7mm thick with a 51.4mm lug-to-lug measurement (with 300 m of water resistance). Yes, that’s a big boy and anyone with a smaller (or even the smaller size of medium) wrist is going to have ...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Omega May 29, 2025

Omega Seamaster Green Diver 300m Review

How does a vintage-watch lover end up loving the green-dialed Omega Seamaster Diver 300M? Before I answer that, let's get a little philosophical. The deeper you get into this watch hobby, the more you start to understand what a “you watch" is. You build a collection, no matter how big or small, that either jibes with your style, your wrist size, or your general vibe. For example, I tend to gravitate towards old things or things tied to some sort of meaningful historical context. I also tend to like things that everyone else doesn’t. This tracks almost identically with my music taste (a lot of Beatles, Beach Boys, and Velvet Underground mixed with an intense love for ‘90s and 2000s indie rock). This is why the two-tone Rolex Datejust holds a special place in my heart, along with vintage Submariners, classic gold dress watches, and basically anything in the 36mm size arena. Finding a niche like this, however, does not mean that you don’t daydream of cosplaying as someone else — someone who could effortlessly pull off a 46mm diver, or an IWC Big Pilot, or even an Urwerk. It’s like those moments when a Gracie Abrams song appears in your music shuffle and you hesitate to change the song but you’re also afraid to maybe admit, “This is actually good?” Now, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M has been around since 1993 (or, if you want a full history of the Seamaster, you can read it here), and the contemporary iteration was initially released in 2018. This update mad...

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Nivada Grenchen May 28, 2025

Introducing: Nivada Grenchen Announces A Pair Of Valjoux 23-Powered Limited Editions For The Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver

Two new takes on the brand's vintage 'CASD' design, including one in eye-catching aventurine.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Union Glashütte May 26, 2025

Introducing - The 2025 Edition of the Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Silvretta Classic

Like clockwork, pun very much intended, Union Glashütte expresses its love for vintage motorsports events, and in particular the Silvretta Classic, with a new watch. Partnering with the renowned classic car rally for a good number of years now, each edition is honoured with a special edition of the brand’s chronographs. We’ve seen a copper […]

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SJX Watches

Zenith Introduces May 21, 2025

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli

Continuing with the blue theme for its 160th anniversary, Zenith has upgraded its compact, vintage-inspired chronograph with a natural stone dial. The Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli is a combination of old and new, plus a luxe dial. The watch is equipped with the latest-generation El Primero movement, but dressed in a 1970s design – here upgraded with a dial of lapis lazuli, the same semiprecious stone found on the G.F.J. cal. 135 revival. Initial thoughts I like the basic design of the Chronomaster Original because it’s essentially a remake of the 1969 El Primero, which is a retro design that still works well today. Zenith has made too many exact replicas of the vintage originals, but fortunately the lapis lazuli edition is different. The stone dial sets it apart visually, while also giving it a more refined feel than the typical Zenith. Though simple, the lapis dial feels like a substantive upgrade to an established and appealing design. The upgraded dial, however, comes at a price that’s too steep. At US$22,700, the lapis dial costs almost US$10,000 more than the standard model with a brass dial. The difference is too much and equally difficult to justify. A prototype revived Although the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar a seems like a vintage remake, it is not exactly. Instead, the standard model introduced last year was based on a 1970s prototype that never made it intro production. So it has the familiar 1969 El Primero case and dial la...

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F Fratello

Fratello

Longines May 3, 2025

Five Fun And Funky Watches From Tudor, IWC, Longines, And More - Which Would Be Your Pick?

Sometimes we just want something a little unusual in the collection-something we can look down at and know is an entirely unusual or funky design. Today, we’re looking at a few vintage and modern options for funky watches. However, I’d ask readers to provide their suggestions in the comments! We saw at Watches and Wonders […] Visit Five Fun And Funky Watches From Tudor, IWC, Longines, And More - Which Would Be Your Pick? to read the full article.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Sarpaneva May 1, 2025

Introducing - Sarpaneva Revives His Most Daring Design, the Supernova

No, we’re not re-publishing old articles. If this watch, this bold and unconventional watch should I say, feels familiar, there’s a good reason for that. Big brands surfing on the wave of vintage re-edition is not a surprise. Independent, creative watchmakers reviving past designs is slightly less common. But here we are, looking at a […]

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Longines Apr 23, 2025

Longines Legend Diver Guide

The Longines Legend Diver, introduced in the mid-aughts but tracing its origins all the way back to the embryonic era of modern dive watches in the 1950s and ‘60s, is the epitome of retro-vintage cool for many lovers of sport watches. Here’s how the watch, and its hallmark and still-rare Super Compressor case design, found a successful niche, and an avid audience, in the 21st century.  1959: The Inspiration As with many now-common watchmaking innovations, Longines was one of the pioneers in waterproofing timepieces, making its first water-resistant case as early as 1937, and introducing its first wristwatches purpose-built for recreational diving in the late 1950s. Unlike many of its predecessors and contemporaries in that fertile era of iconic dive watches - like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner (both 1953), and Omega Seamaster Professional (1957) - Longines’s Super Compressor Diver Ref. 7042, launched in 1959 and the most direct ancestor of today’s Legend Diver - did not employ the now-ubiquitous, external, unidirectional rotating bezel for its dive scale. Instead, the watch was designed in the so-called compressor style, also used by brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Enicar, and Universal Genève, whose case design included an inner dive-scale ring, positioned on the dial’s flange and mounted under the crystal, which rotated in both directions, operated by an additional crown at 4 o’clock. The “Super” in Longines’ “Super Compressor”...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Blancpain Apr 10, 2025

Blancpain Fills a Niche with Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm in Polishe

Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms, first introduced in 1953, is indisputably one of the most influential and iconic timepieces of the 20th century, basically laying out the blueprint for what we now recognize today as the modern divers’ watch. Also indisputable is the fact that the Fifty Fathoms is a watch that is anything but understated in its proportions - the Automatique at the core of the modern collection, relaunched in 2008, sports a massive 45mm case, and even the vintage-inspired and allegedly more modestly sized Bathyscaphe models, which joined the collection in 2013, hover around 43mm in their male-targeted iterations. In 2024, Blancpain responded to a market-wide trend toward smaller case sizes - albeit without compromising the bold character of its flagship sport-luxury model - by releasing a new version of the Fifty Fathoms Automatique in a middle-of-the-road 42mm version. Curiously, the first two models in this size were in rose gold and titanium; the inclusion of a steel model seemed to be a no-brainer that was conspicuous by its absence in that first wave of 42mm models. Today, however, Blancpain has finally delivered the Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm in stainless steel - adding it to the regular collection as well as giving the model a distinctive flair. The stainless steel case of the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique, which measures precisely 42.3mm in diameter and 14.3mm thick, sports a gleaming, predominantly polished finish, distinguishing...

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SJX Watches

Rolex Introduces Apr 3, 2025

Rolex Introduces the Perpetual 1908 on Settimo Bracelet

In a rare move, Rolex has unveiled an all-new bracelet, the Settimo, that goes with the Perpetual 1908. Comprised of seven polished and rounded links, the Settimo is vintage in style and available only in yellow gold for now, to match the 1908 in the same metal. Though unusual for Rolex, the new bracelet is typical Rolex in quality and construction, making it robust despite the compact links and supple feel. It also incorporates the Crownclasp with its hidden, spring-loaded locking mechanism. Initial thoughts Unlike the new GMT-Master II, the Settimo on the 1908 is unexpected. The original 1908 was already surprising when it was launched two years ago, since it was Rolex’s first new attempt at a dress watch in a long time. The supple Settimo bracelet is unlike other Rolex bracelets, which tend to be heavy and solid. Both in terms of look and feel, the pairs well with the 1908, which is one of the thinnest Rolex models with an Oyster case. The retro straight end links are also a nice touch. When purchased together, the 1908 on a bracelet costs about US$12,000 over the same on a strap, which makes the bracelet something of a value buy in terms of precious metal bracelets. The bracelet can be retrofitted to a 1908 originally sold with a strap, but it costs substantially more on its own. The only downside of the new bracelet is the fact that it’s only available in yellow gold, for now at least. I expect it’ll be rolled out across the 1908 progressively over time. Settimo...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Tudor Introduces Apr 1, 2025

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 68, the Biggest Black Bay Yet

It’s a big year, literally and figuratively, for the Black Bay. This year, Tudor has introduced the all new Black Bay 68, continuing with a naming convention that began with the Black Bay 58 all those years ago. The new Black Bay 68 fills out the range of vintage inspired Black Bays with an all new size for the range, coming in at 43mm. According to Tudur, the new size was created to meet demand from customers who wanted a dive watch with a larger footprint. After the Black 58 and Black Bay 54 (both under 40mm) and the longstanding “standard” Black Bay coming in at 41mm, the Black Bay 68 represents genuinely new ground for the collection in terms of size, and signals that the small watch trend that many say started with the Black Bay 58 might be coming to an end.  If you’re familiar with the various forms of the Black Bay, there won’t be too many surprises here. The case is stainless steel with a unidirectional black bezel, with dial options in blue and silver. The dials are subtly domed and have a barely-there radially brushed finish, and are matched with large lume filled hour markers. The hands are the now familiar “Snowflake” style launched in 1969. While the case is 43mm, the important thing to note about these watches is that they are proportionally identical to the Black Bay 54 and Black Bay 58. So, in spite of the larger size, they wear in a way that feels quite familiar if you’ve spent any time at all with either of those earlier Black Bays. Accor...

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SJX Watches

Mar 14, 2025

Albishorn’s Thundergraph Revives the “California” Dial

Less than one year since its debut, Albishorn is back with its third chronograph. The Thundergraph continues the brand’s theme of “imaginary vintage,” this time taking inspiration from mountaineering, specifically the Swiss expeditions to Everest in 1952. With a focus on legibility, the Thundergraph features an unusual “California ghost” dial in petrol blue. Available in a limited run of 99 pieces that will be produced over a period of three years, the Thundergraph features a new iteration of the brand’s proprietary manually wound chronograph movement, developed by founder Sébastien Chaulmontet. Initial thoughts I’ve been following Albishorn since its launch, and have become more impressed with each new release. The Thundergraph is my favourite to-date, retaining the best elements of its stablemates while introducing an appealingly bold take on the California dial. The stainless steel case of the Thundergraph largely mirrors that of the earlier Type 10 and Maxigraph, and retains the appealing asymmetric form and red anodised aluminium chronograph monopusher. The case is actually just 39 mm at the case band, but wears larger due to its 42.7 mm bezel. Where the Thundergraph differs most from its siblings is its dial, which offers a sunburst finish in petroleum blue, which pairs perfectly with the rose gold-plated hands and dial markers. The so-called “California ghost” dial features Roman numerals on the top half of the dial, but rather than Arabic numer...

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SJX Watches

Longines amongst others Mar 13, 2025

Luminous Pixels and Retro Design on Mido’s Commander 1959

Originally a low-key, perhaps even boring, vintage remake, the Commander 1959 Pixel Dial livens things up with a vibrant array of blue, purple, and pink squares printed on the black dial. The new Mido departs from our usual focus on higher-end mechanical watchmaking, but at a little over US$700, it combines affordability, good-enough quality, and fun. The blue and pink squares are actually Super-LumiNova on matte black, creating a striking illuminated pixel dial in the dark. The dial is housed in the classic Commander 1959 case characterised by a “Milanese” mesh bracelet, flat bezel, and domed acrylic crystal, which evokes an unmistakable mid-century aesthetic that contrasts with the funky pixel dial. Initial thoughts Several of Mido’s recent releases, including the Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961, combine inject vibrant colours and details into vintage-inspired designs. The new Commander 1959 continues this with its unmistakably 1950s-style case paired with a modern dial. Despite the dial’s array of colours, legibility is excellent thanks to the wide hands and markers. The Pixel Dial is a simple iteration of the original, and consequently remains affordable at US$740. Like many other watches in the same price range made by Mido’s parent Swatch Group (which also owns Tissot and Longines amongst others), the Commander 1959 is equipped with the Powermatic 80, a no-frills, economical movement that nonetheless provides an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Pattern...

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SJX Watches

Blancpain Scales Down Mar 12, 2025

Blancpain Scales Down the Fifty Fathoms Tech

Primarily vintage-inspired, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was given a modern makeover with the first “Tech” model launched in 2023. Now Blancpain follows up with the Fifty Fathoms Tech Ocean Commitment IV. While retaining the same lug-less case, the latest model is more compact and streamlined than its Tech predecessor, though it’s still 45 mm in diameter. And it features an “absolute black” dial - coated with a substance that absorbs 97% of incident light - ensuring maximum contrast for the luminescent hands and block-shaped hour markers. Like earlier Ocean Commitment editions, which were all vintage-inspired, this watch will help support the Blancpain’s marine conservation efforts, specifically the Blancpain x Sulubaaï Marine Research Center in Palawan, Philippines. Initial thoughts The new Fifty Fathoms Tech offers notable refinements over the earlier Tech Gombessa edition from two years ago. While the oversized, 47 mm Tech Gombessa was designed primarily as a specialised diving instrument, making it arguably too large for everyday wear, the new model adopts a more conventional dive watch dimensions. At 45 mm, it’s still large but more manageable, improving its wearability. The “absolute black” dial is also an interesting upgrade that makes sense in a dive watch given the need for legibility. While Blancpain doesn’t specify the details of the dial coating, it appears to be similar to Vantablack and other blacker-than-black coatings used by other ...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Bulova Snorkel Collection Mar 9, 2025

Video Reaction: the Bulova Snorkel Collection

The other day, I got to sit down and take a look at the new Bulova Snorkel collection. They caught my attention for a simple reason: they are literally eye-catching. The brand’s first foray into the new world of “hybrid” ceramics, they bring an unexpected dose of color to a well-liked, if a bit cult, vintage model: the amusingly named “Devil Diver.” In the video below, I go hands-on with this new collection and give you my thoughts on this trend of not-quite-plastic watches and, of course, the Snorkels themselves. The post Video Reaction: the Bulova Snorkel Collection appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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F Fratello

Fratello

Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades Feb 26, 2025

Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades

Retro watches have been all the rage for more than a decade now. When we review those releases, though, most are analog and inspired by highly collectible vintage timepieces with lengthy stories. But what about the omnipresent everyman’s watches we took for granted as kids or teenagers? Every so often, they return too, and if […] Visit Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades to read the full article.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Angelus Feb 20, 2025

Introducing - The Angelus Flying Tourbillon Titanium Blue Edition

Angelus is an important historic name, which was brought back to life by La Joux-Perret some years ago and acting alongside sister brand Arnold & Son – the latter having a much more traditional and high-end approach. Now, the name Angelus is synonymous with two distinct sub-collections; first is the La Fabrique collection, with vintage-inspired […]

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F Fratello

Fratello

Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina Feb 11, 2025

Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026

A few weeks ago, I visited the Omega headquarters in Biel, and the folks there showed me this new handsome white-dial Seamaster 37mm. It ticks many boxes for me, and many of you also enjoy the return of the dog-leg lugs and vintage-style cases. Omega also shipped the watch to us, so it’s time for […] Visit Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 to read the full article.

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F Fratello

Fratello

Zenith × Revolution Chronomaster Revival Feb 7, 2025

Introducing: The Zenith × Revolution Chronomaster Revival A3818 “Cover Girl Carbon”

It’s no secret that I adore the classic Zenith El Primero A384 and all of its vintage and modern descendants. One of the most famous is the brilliant El Primero A3818 “Cover Girl” that graced the cover of Manfred Rössler’s popular Zenith book from 2009. The vintage blue-dial A3818 is an absolute beauty and has […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith × Revolution Chronomaster Revival A3818 “Cover Girl Carbon” to read the full article.

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SJX Watches

Omega Artfully Revives Feb 6, 2025

Omega Artfully Revives the 1950s Gentleman’s Wristwatch

One year from now, the 2026 Winter Olympics will commence in Italy. To mark the milestone, Omega has created one of its most striking vintage reissues to date, the Seamaster 37 mm Milano Cortina 2026. A homage to the vintage Seamaster Olympic created for the 1956 Melbourne Games, the new edition stays true to its heritage, but isn’t a one-for-one remake. Instead it’s is a blend of elements characteristic of 1950s Omega watches, including distinctive “dog leg” lugs and hexagonal crown of the Constellation, along with a white grand feu enamel dial that’s a nod to the cream enamel dial of the Seamaster Olympic. Initial thoughts The new Seamaster revives some of the best design elements of 1950s Omega wristwatches, primarily the Constellation, while incorporating the key details of the Seamaster Olympic. The mix works surprisingly well, and results in a watch that has a pleasing vintage feel. The case is a little bigger and thicker than the original, but still sized reasonably well. While it is not an imaginative creation, the new Seamaster looks good. The visual and tactile appeal will also be enhanced by the high quality of execution typical of modern Omega watches, especially on the dial and case. The Seamaster 37 mm costs US$19,300, leaving it amongst the pricier time-only watches in the Omega catalogue and well beyond the sweet spot on the price spectrum for the brand. That said, it is decent enough value considering the case in Moonshine gold, fired enamel dia...

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SJX Watches

Hamilton Debuts Feb 6, 2025

Hamilton Debuts the Retro and Affordable Chrono-Matic 50

Modelled on the Chrono-Matic GMT Count-Down from the 1970s, the Chrono-Matic 50 in blue stays true to its predecessor in style. The limited edition retains the five-crown configuration and retains the bold, helmet-shaped 48 mm case, though it forgoes the GMT function. As is typical for Hamilton, the new Chrono-Matic 50 is powered by a high-spec ETA movement and priced affordably. Initial thoughts For several years now, vintage reissues been a dependable strategy for watch brands. Rather than venturing into entirely new designs with unpredictable results, companies are playing safe by relying on the established appeal of reissues. But there are a lot of reissues already on the market, with more being launched seemingly all the time. The Chrono-Matic 50 in blue exemplifies this. Having introduced a black version in 2019, Hamilton has done the same in blue. The new Chrono-Matic 50 stands out from the average reissue in two respects. One is the better-than-average movement for the price range thanks to Hamilton being a sister company of ETA, the biggest maker of mechanical movements in Switzerland. The second is the historical basis of the watch; Hamilton did actually make something like that in the past, which gives this a legitimacy that startups lack. The case is somewhat oversized for my personal preference, though it is sized similarly to the chunky vintage original.It does have a unique design and layout, and with a retail of US$2,545, the Chrono-Matic 50 is also well p...

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F Fratello

Fratello

Jan 16, 2025

Retrospective: Tomas Breaks Prejudices With A Barrel-Shaped Gallet Powered By A Fine Excelsior Park Movement

Every journey has an end and inspires us to set out on a new adventure. Today, we celebrate #TBT, one of the longest-running columns in Fratello’s history. We are happy to announce that after 10 long years, our Thursday contemplation on vintage watches has gotten a refresh. Let’s kick off a new Retrospective series with […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Breaks Prejudices With A Barrel-Shaped Gallet Powered By A Fine Excelsior Park Movement to read the full article.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Raymond Weil Jan 15, 2025

Introducing - Raymond Weil Millesime Infinite Burgundy Dresses in Red for the Chinese Year of the Snake

Raymond Weil hit a home run with the introduction of its Millesime collection last year. Using vintage design cues, the Millesime nailed the retro sector dial, offering fans of the genre an attractive option at an attractive price. The latest Millesime jumps on the Chinese New Year bandwagon with a limited edition with a rich […]

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SJX Watches

Longines Conquest Heritage Jan 7, 2025

The Longines Conquest Heritage in Red Dégradé

Ordinarily a faithful vintage remake with an old-school aesthetic, the Conquest Heritage gets a makeover for the Chinese Lunar New Year. The Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake stands out with a striking red gradient dial featuring gold-plated hands and indices. And for the occasion, the back bears an engraved snake motif penned by Chinese contemporary artist Wu Jian’an, who drew inspiration from the ancient Chinese fable, “Legend of the White Snake”. Initial thoughts The Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake offers something more modern and striking, instead of the conservative look of the standard model that has a silver or black dial. I particularly like the fact that the snake motif is limited to an engraving on the case back, as having it on the dial would have been overly ornate. It’s priced at US$3,150, almost exactly the same as the regular production model, which makes it a decent value proposition. It has a workmanlike quality appropriate for the price, while the high-spec ETA movement inside is one of its strengths. And like other zodiac-theme watches, this would have resonance for those born in the Year of the Snake a meaningful way to commemorate the occasion, not unlike wearing a birthstone. Vintage inspired The snake edition is identical to the standard model save for the dial and case back engraving. Water resistant to 50 m, the stainless steel case is 40 mm in diameter, 10.7 mm in thickness, and entirely polished. It’s slightly larger than the ori...

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Time+Tide

Cartier watches Dec 24, 2024

Our favourite Cartier watches of 2024

Cartier's star has continued to rise in 2024, with a mix of quirky complications, vintage reissues and fun new sizes for classic designs.The post Our favourite Cartier watches of 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Citizen 100th Anniversary Pocket Watch Nov 27, 2024

Up Close: Citizen 100th Anniversary Pocket Watch

Historically known for cutting-edge solar-powered watches – including the most accurate wristwatch ever – Citizen has more recently embarked on growing its lineup of mechanical watches. That began with the well-received Calibre 0200 wristwatch, and continued this year with the 100th Anniversary of the First Citizen Watch Special Limited Edition, a vintage-inspired pocket watch equipped with the all-new cal. 0270 movement. Initial thoughts The anniversary pocket watch is surprising: the watch isn’t quite what it appears to be. At a distance it could pass for a vintage pocket watch, albeit a new-old-stock example, reflecting a design that stays faithful to the aesthetics of the railroad pocket watches that Citizen supplied to Japanese railways in the 20th century. However, it reveals itself to be a modern watch up close, firstly because of the unusual dial texture that mimics Japanese paper but is actually achieved with metal deposition. More importantly, the cal. 0270 is a newly developed movement. It was evidently constructed with old-school pocket watches in mind, but it features modern elements like a free-sprung balance and sharply-shaped bridges. As with the automatic cal. 0200 before, the quality of construction and finishing of the cal. 0270 is impressive, especially given the price. Amongst hand-wind movements in the US$10,000-and-below category, the cal. 0270 easily ranks amongst the best. However, the anniversary pocket watch is still a pocket watch, which m...

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SJX Watches

Zenith Beefs Up Nov 12, 2024

Zenith Beefs Up the Retro Defy Diver

Chunky and water resistant to 600 m, the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver is based on the Defy A3648 of 1969. It shares the distinctive styling of the vintage original, but the Extreme Diver is modern in construction and specs. The case is titanium while the bezel is black ceramic. Originally introduced with either a black or blue dial, the Extreme Diver now gets a silver dial while retaining the signature bright orange flange. Initial thoughts Zenith’s catalogue includes several sports watches, including the Chronomaster Sport, but the Defy Extreme Diver is arguably the most distinctive design. With historical roots in the vintage Defy A3648, the Extreme Diver is also original. And the watch also manages to look entirely modern, despite preserving most of the design elements of the vintage original, including the angular case and 14-sided inner bezel. The Extreme Defy is one of Zenith’s pricier time-and-date watches at CHF10,900, but is still a reasonable value proposition considering the in-house movement and overall build quality. Stars Rated to 600 m just like the vintage A3648, the Extreme Diver has a case of brushed titanium measuring 42.5 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm in thickness. Around the trademark 14-sided inner bezel is a unidirectional black ceramic bezel with fluted edges for grip. Large titanium crown guards protect the fluted screw-in crown at three. The dial is finished in silvery-white with sunburst brushing. Like other Defy models, the dial is decorated wit...

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SJX Watches

Louis Erard s Régulateur Nov 7, 2024

Louis Erard’s Régulateur with an Engraved, Gilt Dial

The Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is a vintage-inspired take on Louis Erard’s signature regulator wristwatch. The “sector” dial has a grained black finish with engraved markings that are gold-plated, bringing to mind vintage “gilt” dials. Part of the brand’s Noirmont Métiers d’Art collection, the new Le Régulateur shares the same case design and specifications with the recent “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator. Initial thoughts While Louis Erard is best known for its collaboration with independent watchmakers, such as Konstantin Chaykin and Kudoke, it offers a wider range of accessibly-priced regulator-style watches. And the Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is no different. It’s a fresh take on the vintage-inspired “sector” dial, combining the signature regulator display with rose-gilt engraved markings on a grained black dial. Priced at CHF2,900, the Gravé Noir stays within Louis Erard’s typical price range. It stands out from the competition in this price segment with the unconventional time display on a vintage-inspired dial. Like the brand’s other offerings, it is good value. It also shares the weaknesses of Louis Erard’s other regulator models, namely a thick case. Sector dial The Gravé Noir has the same dimensions as the rest of the Le Régulateur line with a simple, polished steel case measuring 39 mm by 12.82 mm. Inside is a self-winding Sellita SW266-1 that sports a rotor with the brand logo but is otherwise no frills. The movement has 38 hour...

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WatchAdvice

Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph Nov 5, 2024

Review: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph

With all the talk around Bremont’s new lineup, not to mention the change in direction, we wanted to let the watch do the talking, so we’ve gone hands-on with the all-new Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph to see for ourselves! What We Love: The vintage-style numerals The dial is easy to read at a glance The new bracelet design is comfortable and looks great What We Don’t: The watch is on the thicker side, so wears on the larger side Lack of micro-adjust on the clasp and bracelet The lack of a screw-down crown on an explorers sports watch Overall Rating: 8 / 10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Bremont is a brand not without some controversy, well, at least this year when they and CEO Davide Cerrato revealed an all-new brand identity and logo, along with new releases at Watches & Wonders this year. Since then, we have spoken at length with Davide, (stay tuned for that interview in a few weeks), and while time will ultimately let the public see this all come together, the way he describes it, his grand plan makes sense. That being said, whilst the changes took many off-guard, us included, rather than getting involved in the online rhetoric, we thought we would do what we do best – get our hands on the new range and see how the watches are in real life, in the hands and on the wrist. After all, you can never really give an opinion on a piece until you’ve had experience with it and even more so when you can spend consid...

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