Deployant
Franck Muller introduces new Silhouette CX case style with the Year of the Snake as the launch model
Franck Muller releases a new case design, dubbed Silhouette CX. With the launch model being one honouring The Year of the Snake.
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Deployant
Franck Muller releases a new case design, dubbed Silhouette CX. With the launch model being one honouring The Year of the Snake.
SJX Watches
Originally conceived for pilots of the US military (and covered here by Fratello), the Omega Speedmaster Pilot is now available to civilians. The origins of the watch explain the military-influenced, instrument-style dial design, which is meant to evoke the utilitarian nature of an instrument panel inside a fighter jet. The regular production version of the watch retains the same specs as the military exclusive, but with different livery. The case has the straight lugs of the Speedmaster “Ed White” but in a larger format thanks to the automatic cal. 9900 inside. Initial thoughts I’m something of an outlier amongst enthusiasts since I prefer automatic to manual-wind, even within the Speedmaster collection. While a manual-wind movement is traditional for the Speedy, I appreciate the day-to-day convenience of an automatic. Additionally, Omega’s latest-generation automatic chronograph movements are all impressively high-spec. While the Speedmaster Pilot may not achieve the same aesthetic purity as its manual-wind counterparts, it remains an excellent everyday option, especially with the military provenance. That said, the military provenance is not exactly military-issue. The watch was designed for military pilots who presumably buy it on a personal basis for off-duty wear; it is not an actual mil-spec instrument watch. This can be seen in the dial design, which has aviation-inspired elements, rather than actual, functional indicators for pilots. Even though this is m...
Fratello
Today, I have another funky design from the Behrens team. I’ve reviewed several of the brand’s watches over the last few years. The Chinese brand always finds a way to impress me with interesting takes on time-telling while offering its watches at very reasonable prices. The Behrens Apolar Producer Michael Limited Edition watch is an […] Visit Hands-On With The Behrens Apolar Producer Michael Limited Edition to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary is the most complicated serial-production watch in the Voutilainen catalogue. Modelled on Kari Voutilainen’s first-ever watch, a pocket watch made in 1994, the anniversary tourbillon is a wristwatch that is typical Voutilainen in style and substance. The design is classical while the quality of execution is exceptionally high. Initial thoughts The anniversary tourbillon is predictable in a good way – it looks, feels, and functions as you would expect from a Voutilainen. Even at arm’s length the quality of the watch is apparent. The guilloche on the dial is refined and tidy, while the movement decoration is impeccable. Zoom in and the movement decoration gets even better, which is unsurprising since Voutilainen likely offers the best movement decoration that’s done in an artisanal manner yet at scale (the brand makes perhaps 100 watches a year). The overall quality of the watch is outstanding, and the movement especially so. The details of the bridges are perfectly executed, while the steel parts are elegantly shaped and flawlessly polished. As impressive as the decoration itself is the fact that Voutilainen can do this consistently across all its watches for a reasonable-ish price – a testament to the company that Mr Voutilainen has built. As a wristwatch, however, the movement lacks the scale of the pocket watch. As such, the wristwatch movement feels a little constricted compared to the pocket watch.Everything is clos...
Fratello
Yes, you read that correctly. I think the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, with its steel dial, titanium bezel, and mesh bracelet, is wrong. Allow me to explain myself. Historically, combining the 1990s case design with a mesh bracelet that originated a couple of decades before that doesn’t make sense. As a dive watch, it […] Visit Hands-On: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M With A Steel Dial And Titanium Bezel to read the full article.
Monochrome
For its latest collaboration watch, NYC-based design studio Massena LAB is teaming up with venerable, alarm-specialist watchmaker Vulcain, bringing its own take on an emblematic model, the Cricket Nautical. This watch, which relied on the brand’s signature chiming complication, was one of the first of its kind, merging diving credentials with the alarm feature that […]
WatchAdvice
The IWC Portugieser is one of the Schaffhausen brand’s most iconic models, and with a new lineup this year, we thought we would take the new Portugieser Chronograph ‘Dune’ out to see how it feels on the wrist. What We Love The watch’s ability to pair with most outfits The dial finishing is excellent, with the sunray finish looking stunning The design is timeless and won’t date easily What We Don’t The monochromatic coloured dial could use some contrast to aid with legibility The clasp is a little hard to open The lack of a date window gives it less functionality Overall Score: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 2024 has been a stellar year for IWC Schaffhausen. They launched the new look Portugieser collection at Watches & Wonders 2024, which I felt was one of the best collections released at the fair this year. Whilst other brands focused their efforts on just a few models or high complications, IWC took the opportunity to re-vamp the entire line, with new colourways reflecting the times of the day and in steel and precious metals. They also had an epic soundtrack playing in their booth, which could be heard throughout the Palexpo, so it was almost as if IWC provided the soundtrack to Watches & Wonders 2024. They also released the Portugieser Eternal Calendar as part of this collection which was the brand’s contribution to the high-end pieces we saw throughout the fair, which then went on to break the Guin...
Deployant
The Zenith DEFY Extreme Jungle is a limited edition timepiece that draws inspiration from the untamed energy and captivating mystery of the jungle. As the final installment in Zenith's series of watches inspired by extreme environments, this model follows the Desert and Glacier editions. Limited to just 50 pieces, the DEFY Extreme Jungle combines innovative design with high-performance features, making it a notable addition to Zenith's DEFY collection.
Fratello
Farer is one of the OGs of the microbrand universe. Founded in 2015, the brand prides itself on British design and Swiss production. Over the years, Farer found a style of its own and a clever position within the greater watch market, making it a household name today. This week, the brand announced a new […] Visit Introducing: Two Limited-Edition Farer Endurance Models In Gunmetal And Jade to read the full article.
Monochrome
When it was first presented in 2017, the Black Bay Chrono generated mixed emotions. The good ones came from the overall performance and fairly reasonable price (considering the whole package), as well as the unexpected industrial alliance with Breitling. Others pointed out the rather uninspired design of the inaugural edition as well as the strange mix […]
SJX Watches
One aspect of a watch that is often overlooked - but ironically the one that is front and centre - is the dial. While often conservative in terms of design, Rolex is perhaps at its most expressive in the details of its dials, which blend classic elements with modern touches, all accomplished by modern manufacturing techniques and finishes. Even though a dial may seem simple on its face compared to the moving parts of the movement, dials are complex. Much goes into making a high quality dial, the dial blank, applied ornaments, surface finishing, gold indices, and more recently even grand feu enamel. A diamond-set dial for the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Unsurprisingly Rolex takes dial making very seriously. Reflecting its long-term vision, Rolex has invested tremendously in every aspect of manufacturing wristwatches, including producing its own dials. Dial manufacturing of the highest quality, and at scale, is a challenge few have truly mastered. Rolex accomplished that with a dedicated dial-making facility in the Chêne-Bourg district of Geneva, located about 15 minutes from Rolex headquarters, where some 500 people work exclusively on dial conception, prototyping, and production. Notably, the Chêne-Bourg facility also does gem setting as well as the production of Cerachrom components like the GMT-Master II bezel insert. In-house dial making has given Rolex control of the entire process, allowing the brand to innovate, even in rethinking the very foundation of a dial, n...
Quill & Pad
The Armin Strom Tribute 2 Copper Edition features a mainplate with a distinctive grattage design in an elegant copper hue. It's a limited edition of just 10 pieces.
Fratello
Less than a month ago, Omega introduced two new Seamaster Diver 300M versions. Those instantly grabbed the number-one spot in my imaginary “favorite modern Seamaster” ranking by taking the watch’s current design and toning it down. On the off chance that you might consider those two a bit bland, Omega is back with something much […] Visit Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Titanium Bronze Gold to read the full article.
Monochrome
Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) embraced all facets of horology, from his gravity-defying tourbillon regulator to his neoclassical design language and legible displays. While the Reine de Naples is the go-to collection for women, last year, Breguet dipped into its Classique collection and confected two dazzling jewellery models: the Classique Tourbillon 3358. The latest interpretation in white […]
SJX Watches
IWC’s sports watch with an integrated bracelet, the Ingenieur Automatic 40, now gets a dial in dark blue, arguably the quintessential dial colour for such watches. Modelled on the Ingenieur SL designed by Gérald Genta’s in the 1970s, the modern day Ingenieur was released last year in several dial colours, including black and silver. The new model with a blue dial retains the exact same design, including a bezel secured by five functional screws, an integrated H-link bracelet, and a grid-patterned dial. Initial thoughts As a classic colour for such a watch, the blue dial was long expected. It’s arguably the most appealing Ingenieur, though the titanium model has an edge (at a much, much higher price). While it is hard to find fault in the execution of the Ingenieur, it was released somewhat late, as the fad for integrated bracelets already lost steam last year. This new addition is arriving even later, though the upside is it will be more easily available than before. The blue dial model is priced the same as the earlier versions, making it a little expensive considering the entry-level movement inside. Most sports watches with integrated bracelets in the same price segment rely on more sophisticated calibres. Textured blue The new version has specs identical to its siblings in the collection. The stainless steel case is 40 mm in diameter and 10.8 mm thick. Featuring brushed surfaces with polished bevels, the case has the 1970s Ingenieur elements of a circular bezel ...
Monochrome
Since its debut in 2021, the Tribute 1 collection – a contemporary take on the classic dress watch by Armin Strom – has expanded with a series of remarkable additions, like the Fumé and California dial series that captivated enthusiasts by blending traditional finishing techniques with Armin Strom’s modern design sensibilities. The series is taking […]
An avant garde design from an exciting young brand.
Monochrome
Taking its design cues from a 1973 forebear with a rounded square TV-shaped case, Mido’s Multifort TV Big Date was rereleased on its fiftieth birthday in 2023. A timely move, the accessibly priced Multifort TV Big Date ticks all the boxes of a luxury sports watch and provides an alternative to the over-priced and impossible-to-get […]
Monochrome
Few design institutions have left such a lasting mark on automotive design than Bertone. Just going through the studio’s palmares reveals some absolute masterpieces. The Alfa Romeo B.A.T. series, the Lamborghini Marzal, and the Lancia Stratos Zero, for instance. And those are just design studies, concept cars that would influence production cars further down the […]
Fratello
The Sinn 717 debuted in 2021 and has won at least two major German design awards. It’s a large and legible chronograph with looks inspired by the NaBo 17 cockpit clocks from the legendary Tornado jet fighter. We’ll look at the 717 again and shed light on an interesting NaBo 17-related story that surfaced. My […] Visit Hands-On With The Cockpit-Clock-Inspired Sinn 717 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
We look at the best watches using the most classic numeral design.The post 7 of the best Roman numeral watches that have all the classical elegance you’ll need appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
I will be highly opinionated today, and I am ready to take a few punches if you disagree with me. No matter how simple a Cartier design is, it’s heavy. Heavy for self-esteem, that is. There are exceptions, but generally speaking, I don’t see Cartier as a door-opening brand for watch collecting, whether modern or […] Visit #TBT Reinventing My Tastes With Cartier Vermeil Trinity Watches to read the full article.
Monochrome
Next year marks the 50th anniversary of the iconic Laureato, first introduced by Girard-Perregaux in 1975. Its distinctive design-centred around a tonneau-shaped case, slim, raised octagonal bezel with circular plinth, and integrated bracelet-has evolved over decades while remaining true to the original spirit, a tradition upheld by the latest releases. The two new time-only Laureato […]
SJX Watches
Christopher Ward just released the C1 Bel Canto Classic, a new version of its best-selling hourstriker in four colours: silver, blue, green and gold. The Bel Canto Classic retains the familiar design of the original, but gains updated dial aesthetics with laser-etched guilloché, Roman numerals, and a domed “glassbox” sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts A hit at launch thanks to its affordability – and a well-timed debut while pandemic-induced demand was strong – the Bel Canto is now Christopher Ward’s best known model. The reason behind its success is obvious - the striking hour complication is rare and even rarer at an affordable price. Because of the price, the Bel Canto is executed simply and functionally. The base movement is an inexpensive Sellita SW200-1, while the striking module is clever and fairly basic in construction. But the module has been smartly constructed to expose much of the strikework, giving the watch a complex appearance. The hammer and wire gong visible above the dial plate, along with the main operating lever and a column wheel selector. The Bel Canto Classic is essentially an evolution of the original model, with the dial updates giving it a slightly more classical appearance. Priced at US$4,540 on a titanium bracelet, the Bel Canto Classic remains a good value proposition, like the original. Affordable chimes on the hour The Bel Canto Classic retains the same proportions, with the titanium case measuring 41 mm in diameter and 13.2 mm ...
Worn & Wound
When you think of Ressence, the first things that come to mind are likely the brand’s forward thinking, non traditional design language, and their completely unique mechanical solution for telling time via a series of rotating circles as opposed to traditional hands. You probably don’t think of traditional craft – given the hyper-modern aesthetic of the brand, most of their signature designs forego the tenets of classical watchmaking. There are exceptions to be found, of course, in the Ressence’s library of one-offs and limited editions, but classifying their approach, on the whole, as somewhat “industrial” isn’t too far off the mark. That’s what makes a watch like the Type 8 Indigo so interesting. It’s one of those exceptions, and in it we can see the many different things a Ressence watch can be. The Type 8 Indigo is Ressence’s contribution to the The Indigo Project, led by Shellman, the brand’s Tokyo based Japanese retail partner. The design of the dial incorporates a single indigo dyed silk thread, placed in a spiral pattern by a skilled artisan. Indigo dyeing is part of a craft tradition in Japan spanning centuries, and the watch is a tribute to both Japanese tradition and an impressive design object on its own. Because of the dye and the nature of the thread itself, a range of blue tones are visible on the dial. According to Ressence, the total length of the thread is 2.5 meters, and it measures just 0.2mm in diameter, which underscores the in...
Hodinkee
A futuristic design meets delicate handcraft in this special edition for the renowned Japanese retailer.
Fratello
Here at Fratello, we’ve closely followed Serica’s progress since its founding in 2019. We know the Parisian brand for its vintage-inspired yet fresh-looking and attractive watches. Both founders - Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette - pay great attention to (design) details. When they told us they were working on a dressier piece, it piqued our […] Visit Hands-On: The All-New Serica 1174 Parade With A Black Or Brass Sunburst Guilloché Dial to read the full article.
Fratello
If you follow my writing, you know I am an advocate for typography in watch design. It is an often-overlooked element that can make or break a watch. While I was developing my watch, typography designer Samuel Baker appeared on my radar. We ended up collaborating, resulting in a fully tailor-made typeface for my fledgling […] Visit Just My Type! An Interview With Watch Typography Designer Samuel Baker to read the full article.
Time+Tide
A visit to the IWC Schaffhausen manufacture reveals the design parallels between its watches and the building they are created within.The post Andrew races IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr through the Schaffhausen manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Seiko 5 Sports releases the second limited-edition model in collaboration with HUF. The watch is inspired by the heritage of a late-1960s 5 Sports design.
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