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Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Stone Dials - Featuring Onyx, Lapis Lazuli, Coral, And More Fratello
Rolex Stone Dials - Featuring May 10, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Stone Dials - Featuring Onyx, Lapis Lazuli, Coral, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! We stay in the Rolex universe this week and check out some of the most amazing Rolex stone dials. The Genevan brand has created exceptional dials through the decades, with the stone dials being the most famous among many watch fans. Taking the step to stone dials this week was […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Stone Dials - Featuring Onyx, Lapis Lazuli, Coral, And More to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Brand-New Lesablier LS-04 Travelgraph - An Affordable, Compact, And Feature-Packed Worldtimer Fratello
May 10, 2024

Hands-On: The Brand-New Lesablier LS-04 Travelgraph - An Affordable, Compact, And Feature-Packed Worldtimer

It’s not often that we get to review a watch from a brand that is completely new to us. This week, though, I had the honor to get up close and personal with a new watch from a young brand called Lesablier. It was the LS-04 Travelgraph, and, in short, I’d describe it as a […] Visit Hands-On: The Brand-New Lesablier LS-04 Travelgraph - An Affordable, Compact, And Feature-Packed Worldtimer to read the full article.

Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle Fratello
Cartier Showing How It’s Done? May 10, 2024

Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle

We have heard quite a few complaints from brands about the watch market recently. Many are struggling from economic uncertainty and a serious correction after lockdown-induced all-time highs. One brand, however, seems to be on a bit of a winning streak. According to Morgan Stanley, Cartier overtook Omega as the second-largest Swiss watchmaker behind Rolex […] Visit Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle to read the full article.

Tennis Anyone? Timex Releases their Latest Peanuts Themed Novelty Worn & Wound
Timex Releases their Latest Peanuts May 9, 2024

Tennis Anyone? Timex Releases their Latest Peanuts Themed Novelty

Snoopy and the rest of Charles Schulz’s iconic Peanuts characters have graced newspaper pages since 1950 and for nearly as long, the gang has partnered with Timex to create special edition watch collaborations. Together they bring a playfulness to the wrist like few brands can. Whether you grew up reading the Sunday funnies or watching the holiday-themed specials, their collaborative collection is nostalgic, cheerful, and beloved by casual wearers and knowledgeable collectors alike. The first Timex x Peanuts watches were originally introduced in 1969, and everyone’s favorite characters have all found their way across numerous Timex watches in the 55 years since. New for 2024 is a gold-tone stainless steel Timex Marlin featuring The World-Famous Tennis Player, one of Snoopy’s alter-egos, which was first introduced in 1970. According to the legend himself, he hates playing against top players like Arthur Ashe and Jimmy Connors because they “keep hitting the ball back.” This manually wound timepiece is packed with delightful details, as Snoopy’s arms and his tennis ball are used to read the time. His racket arm tells the minutes, while his other arm displays the hours, and the tennis ball represents the seconds. There is a very neat animation on the Timex website that shows the hands in motion, depicting our favorite beagle in mid-swing.  Powering this one is a Japanese Miyota movement and measurements are 34mm in diameter by 10mm in thickness. The whimsical Time...

First Look – The New Editions of the Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition Hamilton May 9, 2024

First Look – The New Editions of the Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition

Hamilton, once one of America’s greatest watchmakers, was a precursor of the field watch during World War 1. Supplying precision railroad watches to soldiers under General Pershing’s command, Hamilton adapted its pocket watches to wristwatch format, eventually supplying over one million wristwatches to the U.S. military during World War II. Fast-forward almost 80 years, and […]

H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners on Rubber Straps with the Alpine F1 Team Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces May 8, 2024

H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners on Rubber Straps with the Alpine F1 Team

One of my favorite Watches & Wonders experiences these past few years was the brief time I got to spend with the Moser Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon. All tourbillons are special, of course, but this one is especially unique and I found it to be genuinely kind of awe inspiring in person. As the name of the watch implies, the cylindrical hairspring wraps around the balance spindle vertically, giving what is already a fairly dramatic watch an even more profound sense of depth. It’s a particularly challenging watchmaking feat to pull off, but pays dividends, according to Moser, in reducing friction and improving isochronism, both of which play a role in a more stable rate through the duration of the movement’s power reserve.  In the last few weeks, Moser has been busy introducing two new versions of their most impressive tourbillon, this time as part of the Streamliner collection of watches, and in both cases in partnership with the BWT Alpine F1 Team. The watches take a similar aesthetic approach seen in the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon, with a skeletonized dial that prominently highlights the flying tourbillon at 6:00, and a decentralized dial at the 12:00 position. The difference of course is that now we have this complication in a Streamliner case (and on a rubber strap) for a watch (a pair of watches, actually) that might just be the sportiest Moser has ever made. Both versions of the watch use synthetic, translucent minerals for the small decentralized dials. For...

Five Must-Have EDC Items Worn & Wound
May 8, 2024

Five Must-Have EDC Items

It’s time for a good old fashioned EDC-themed Chronicle, and we’ve gathered what we consider some of the most essential – and practical – gear you can pick up. They say variety is the spice of life, and there’s plenty of flavor here, from knives to pouches to pens, and more. Without further ado, here are five must-have EDC items to help you stay prepared for anything life may throw at you. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. It’s time for a good old fashioned EDC-themed Chronicle, and we’ve gathered what we consider some of the most essential – and practical – gear you can pick up. They say variety is the spice of life, and there’s plenty of flavor here, from knives to pouches to pens, and more. Without further ado, here are five must-have EDC items to help you stay prepared for anything life may throw at you. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. The post Five Must-Have EDC Items appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Explained: The Detent Escapement SJX Watches
Breguet s natural escapement May 8, 2024

Explained: The Detent Escapement

Among the many different escapement types, one in particular stands out, the detent escapement. Taking its name from détente, French for “trigger”, this system is often considered to be the purest type of escapement due to its efficiency and virtually lubrication-free operation. Any sort of mechanical clock or watch requires an escapement, a mechanism that transfers torque from the power source to the regulating organ. The escapement bridges the steady rotation of the gears in the going train and the oscillation of the balance. As a result, the escapement fulfils a double function, both maintaining the swing of the balance and regulating the discharge speed of the mainspring and going train. The detent escapement was invented in the second half of the 18th century,  somewhat simultaneously but independently by the English watchmakers Thomas Earnshaw (1749-1829) and John Arnold (1736-1799). A somewhat similar escapement was prototyped by the Frenchman Pierre Le Roy (1717–1785) some three decades earlier, but the modern detent escapement is derived mostly from Earnshaw’s design. Initially, the escapement was conceived for use in marine chronometers, explaining why it is also known as a chronometer escapement. The chronometer escapement also inspired many innovative subsequent escapements, like the Breguet’s natural escapement, the Robin escapement, and the Daniels co-axial. Drawings of detent escapement types taken from ‘The Marine Chronometer: Its History and ...

Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked In White Gold Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin May 8, 2024

Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked In White Gold

This is hardly the first open-worked version of the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin, but it is my favorite one so far. The perfection is in the white gold that “AP” used for the watch’s exterior, the internal and external finishing, and the choice of colors. The way the watch combines significant weight […] Visit Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked In White Gold to read the full article.

17 Day-Date Watches From Under $200 to Over $50,000 Teddy Baldassarre
May 7, 2024

17 Day-Date Watches From Under $200 to Over $50,000

In many ways, we are living in a “less is more” era of watch design, in which watch dials continue to trend toward symmetry and simplicity; an era in which even the humble date window, the simplest and perhaps most utilitarian complication for an everyday-wear watch, has found itself unwelcome to many enthusiasts of this new generation of understated timepieces. And yet, the appeal of the day-date watch - one notch of complication above the simple date-display model, designed to clue in the wearer not just to the date on the calendar but the day of the week - remains strong. From a utility standpoint, it shouldn’t be surprising, especially in our current fast-paced era, in which home-office work and 24/7 connectedness blurs lines between weekdays and weekends more than ever, and forgetting what day it is becomes an issue for more and more people. If you’re in the market for such a watch, or just intrigued by the diverse ways in which a timepiece can display this useful information, check out the list below, in which we spotlight a selection of day-date watches, from entry-level to high luxury, in ascending order of price. Timex Q Timex Inspired SST Price: $179, Case Size: 38 mm, Case Height: 11.5 mm, Lug Width: 18 mm, Crystal: Acrylic, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Quartz Analog Timex has had success in recent years in reproducing some of its cult-favorite vintage models for today’s increasingly savvy collectors seeking out the sweet spot between his...

Girard Perregaux Debuts a Pair of Pink Gold Laureatos with New Dial Colors Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux May 7, 2024

Girard Perregaux Debuts a Pair of Pink Gold Laureatos with New Dial Colors

There’s something undeniably satisfying about a big gold sports watch. I think their appeal is rooted in the idea that they don’t really make too much sense. A sports watch, in theory, is something that should be built to take some abuse, if not in sport, than in the average day to day life of a normal human being. They should, effectively, disappear. Making a sports watch out of a solid block of gold turns this idea on its head. Gold, of course, is anything but under the radar. It’s noticeable from across a room, in fact. Further if it’s immaculately finished in a way that brings its shine and luster to the forefront. And gold, for all of its great qualities, is not exactly the most robust material. Some alloys almost seem to have the consistency of peanut butter. You can tell when they’ve been touched in a way that steel just doesn’t show. And yet, the pull of the gold sports watch is real. And Girard Perregaux, with the Laureato, makes an awfully good one.  At the same press event that saw GP announce their fantastic new titanium Laureato chronograph, they also unveiled, under embargo, two new pink gold flavors of the 42mm Laureato in exceedingly well matched dial colors. Ultramarine Blue and Sage Green dial variants enter the collection today, and each works incredibly well with the subtle pink hue of the gold. I was particularly impressed by the green dial when I saw these watches in person a few months ago. Green and yellow gold is a classic combination,...

First Look – The New Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 with Micro-Rotor Movement Monochrome
Yema May 7, 2024

First Look – The New Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 with Micro-Rotor Movement

A strong advocate of French watchmaking and a brand with history, Yema keeps upgrading its collection with more horological content and designs to please vintage enthusiasts. This blend of modern watchmaking and historic looks was the base of the recently presented Superman Slim CMM.20, the icon of the brand powered by a manufacture micro-rotor calibre developed and assembled in France. Now, it's time for the Navygraf, the other dive watch of Yema to be upgraded and refined with these nice mechanics. Meet the new Navygraf Slim CMM.20 diver.

Tudor Black Bay: A Comprehensive Guide to the Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor May 7, 2024

Tudor Black Bay: A Comprehensive Guide to the Collection

The Tudor Black Bay took watch fandom by storm when it hit the market in 2012 and the sporty, vintage-inspired divers' watch has since grown into an extensive family with something for just about everyone, now boasting in-house calibers, multiple styles and sizes, and even some precious metals and complications. In this comprehensive guide we explore the origins of the Tudor Black Bay and showcase the standout models you can buy right now.  FOUNDATIONS OF TUDOR With an eye toward making watches that would be affordable while still maintaining a high level of quality, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf registered the Tudor brand trademark in 1926, and began running the Tudor company as a subsidiary brand of Rolex in 1946. Tudor watches were the only watches on the market at the time that featured reliable third-party movements inside the famed waterproof Rolex Oyster case, also developed in 1926, and were initially more geared toward the tool watch market than were Rolex timepieces, which already enjoyed a reputation as luxury items. The first Tudor watch with the “Oyster” name followed shortly after the launch of the brand, in 1947, kicking off a long tradition of timepieces suitable for underwater adventure. The first Tudor Prince model followed in 1952, around the same time that Tudor began an R&D; partnership with the French Navy (Marine Nationale), from which would emerge the brand’s first dive watch. THE OYSTER PRINCE SUBMARINER The Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, Tu...

A Habring2 Doppel 38 “Sector” Dial for Hong Kong SJX Watches
May 7, 2024

A Habring2 Doppel 38 “Sector” Dial for Hong Kong

Made for the 10th anniversary of its retailer in the city, the Habring² Doppel 38 Hong Kong Edition is a split-seconds chronograph sporting the brand’s signature “bullhead” pusher layout. With only 10 made for A Watch Company, the Hong Kong edition is essentially a standard Doppel 38 but with a dial almost identical to that on the Chrono-Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary.  Initial thoughts The basic Doppel 38 is probably the best value rattrapante on the market. It’s a manual-wind split-seconds chronograph with a smartly constructed movement for about US$12,000. Functionality aside, the Hong Kong Edition is even more appealing, thanks to the refined dial design. Admittedly, it is not an original design since it’s clearly vintage inspired – and the “sector” layout has been done by many brands – but it is still a good look. Priced at HK$89,800, or about US$11,500, the Doppel 38 is arguably an even better value proposition than the regular production model thanks to the styling. A value proposition rattrapante Highly regarded for value-minded timepieces, Habring² is Austrian brand run by husband and wife team Richard and Maria Habring. Featuring the “bullhead” pushers at two and ten, the Doppel 38 has compact, elegant dimensions considering the complication, with the steel case measuring 38 mm by 11.5 mm. The case is mirror-polished on the bezel and tops of the lugs with satin brushing on the sides.  The blued chronograph minutes hand has a retro, po...

10 Watches Under $500 – and Some Under $200 – That I Love Quill & Pad
May 7, 2024

10 Watches Under $500 – and Some Under $200 – That I Love

While we tend to focus on the upper end of the watch market on Quill & Pad, the vast majority of collectors have much more limited disposable income to satiate their desires. However, as American college student and founder of the Campus Watch Chronicle blog, Sam Loiterstein explains here, there are a plethora of great options available for less than $250. Here are 10 of his favorites.

Hands On: Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque II SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronometre Souverain May 6, 2024

Hands On: Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque II

One of the most esoteric offerings in Only Watch 2024 is the Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque II. A follow-up to the first edition made in 2017, the Mosaïque II sticks to the same template that was originally inspired by a 19th century pocket watch with an inlaid case. It’s essentially an F.P. Journe Chronometre Souverain with a slightly larger case inlaid with semi-precious stones and a hinged hunter back. This also makes F.P. Journe the only brand with two watches – the other is the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu – in the upcoming charity auction that takes place on May 10, 2024. Initial thoughts I liked the original version because it was recognisable as an F.P. Journe watch, yet entirely different. The Mosaïque II holds the same appeal, albeit at a far higher price given the increased demand for F.P. Journe in the years since. While in 2017 one could reasonably hope to buy the first Mosaïque for a high five-figure price – in fact it sold for a trifling CHF90,000 – the Mosaïque II will almost certainly end up in the high six- or even seven figures. Affordability aside, the Mosaïque II is a little more interesting than its predecessor because of the floral motif as well as the materials; the bloodstone inlays are a particularly striking backdrop for the other stones. The inlays are also more complex, with both the dial and back inlaid with stones in a mix of shapes and sizes. A Geneva museum Located along a small street in Geneva’s Old Town is the Barbier-Mueller Mus...

The Best New Releases from April Worn & Wound
May 5, 2024

The Best New Releases from April

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week, we take a moment to catch our breath and celebrate all the amazing releases this past month. April alone, even outside of Watches & Wonders, has been a fantastic month in regards to new watches, and if this is any indication for what the rest of the year brings, we couldn’t be more excited. Without further ado, here is your weekly Roundup of some of our favorites.  Note: As we are hosting our Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, please be advised that all orders placed between April 30th (after 2 pm EST) to May 6th will ship starting May 7th. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing bel...

New: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith Deployant
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith DEPLOYANT May 4, 2024

New: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith

The TAG Heuer Formula 1, first launched in 1986, was a popular and accessible sports watch that many from the '80s and '90s would recognize. TAG Heuer has recently introduced the Formula 1 Kith Limited Edition, which is a true-to-original reissue of the Series 1, co-created with the streetwear brand Kith. This special edition comes in ten vibrant versions, and it’s uniquely branded as “Kith Heuer,” signifying the partnership. The Kith logo takes the place of the traditional “TAG” in the watchmaker’s emblem, marking this collaboration.