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Monochrome
With its continuing pursuit of offering aesthetic variations of unconventional mechanical design, Ulysse Nardin expands its Blast Free Wheel series with the new Blast Free Wheel Maillechort. The concept was introduced in 2018 with the Executive Tourbillon Skeleton Free Wheel and UN added spectacular limited editions with exotic dials a year later, and a Blast […]
Hodinkee
The latest example of craftsmanship from Kari Voutilainen and his longtime collaborator Tatsuo Kitamura, the Kohan is vibrantly beautiful beyond my wildest dreams.
Teddy Baldassarre
Building a watch collection is generally a progression, beginning with the accumulation of a handful of modestly priced favorites and building toward the quest for pricier and more coveted models as one's knowledge and disposable income grow. We've showcased many worthwhile models in many price categories, but it's the sweet spot between $5,000 to about $10,000 that many consider the most fertile ground for finding some of those Holy Grails of timekeeping from some of the world's legendary watch brands. If you're in the market for your first "icon" watch (and you're looking to buy new rather than vintage or pre-owned), here are 21 of the best watches under $10,000 to consider, all topping out below the five-figure price barrier. Grand Seiko SBGM221 Price: $5,900 Reference:SBGM221, Case Size: 39.5mm, Case Height: 13.7mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: GS 9S66 In 2017 Grand Seiko released the SBGM221 GMT which has stood as one of the brand’s best values to date. Inspired by some of their 1960s designs, the SBGM221 is characterized by that simple ivory-colored dial and vibrant blue GMT hand not to mention the eminently wearable 39.5mm wide steel case. And then there is the Zaratsu polishing throughout the case and dial which plays with the light in a way that only Grand Seiko seems able to do. The Caliber 9S66 is a tried and tested “true” GMT movement that allows you do independently adjust the hour hand and operates at 4 Hz w...
Worn & Wound
I’ve reached the age where I regularly feel the temptation to say things along the lines of “back in the day…” This applies to various things, such as life without smartphones, dial-up modems, and Napster, among others, but occasionally, it also applies to watches. You see, it wasn’t that long ago that things were quite different. Dive watches were all north of 40mm, in-house movements were rare under $5k, microbrands were dismissed as a passing trend, and, most relevantly to this review, mechanical chronographs under a certain price were primarily powered by Valjoux 7750s or a close variant. With sub-dials at 12, 6, and 9, day-dates at three, two-pushers, cam-actuated, and always automatic, approachably priced mechanical chronographs were limited in their design options. Even 3, 6, 9 layouts were rare, powered by 7753s or ETA 2894s, and often limited to Swatch group brands. The point is that in 2025, it’s almost hard to imagine a world of such limited chronograph options. Today, thanks largely to Sellitta, 3, 9, and 3, 6, 9 layouts are typical (I actually miss 12, 6, 9 now), monopushers are no big deal, manual winding is an option, flybacks, GMTs, and even column-wheels are on the table. Simply put, it’s a good time to be a chronograph fan. Yet, even in this golden-age of chronographs (ok, that might be a stretch), there is room to stand out. Enter Albishorn, which launched in 2024 with a series of chronographs powered by a bespoke movement, based on a fun r...
SJX Watches
IWC continues to grow its line of ceramic-cased pilot’s watches with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar (ref. IW389409). A limited edition of 1,000 pieces unlike most other ceramic models that are regular production, the Miramar joins the pilot’s watches with ceramic cases in white, dark green, dark blue, beige, and of course classic black. For someone who wants the same colour, but for half the price, IWC has also launched the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 with a “Miramar blue” dial and stainless steel case (ref. IW388117) that’s regular production. Initial thoughts The IWC aviator’s watches with ceramic cases are generally appealing, the ceramic cases add a cool factor to an otherwise standard and functional design. But there are now a lot of them in multiple colours. The range of colours feels a little much, especially for a watch that meant to be rooted in aviation instruments. Because of the historical basis of IWC’s pilot’s watch line, the collection has always seemed a bit more serious minded, but the many colours run counter to that. That is, the Miramar itself is a likeable watch. The colour is unusual and fun while also being different. It brings to mind the fashionable shade of baby blue associated with Tiffany & Co., but is clearly different in being darker. And IWC’s build quality is always reliable; the cal. 69380 inside is an industrial workhorse found across the brand’s catalogue. The Miramar is also priced correctly, th...
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Monochrome
It’s fair to say that genuine horological novelties, in the form of complications and new collections, have given way to a more trend-oriented approach in the watch industry. Riding the wave, many brands revisit popular collections in more compact case dimensions and different materials, treating the dials to seasonal colours. Rado’s Captain Cook, the brand’s […]
Monochrome
For quite some years now, IWC Schaffhausen has been playing around with colours and ceramics under the name of Colours of TOP GUN. Inspired by various elements of the famous US Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor Program, better known as TOP GUN, the sub-collection exclusively uses ceramic for its cases. Until now, that is, as […]
Time+Tide
IWC introduces TOP GUN Miramar, a summery new Pantone colour making its debut with two Pilot's Chronograph models in ceramic and steel.The post Seagazing with the new summer-ready ceramic IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Miramar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Revealed in this deep-dive: Bob’s Watches average Rolex prices increased by over 550%, rising from approximately $2,000 in 2010 to $13,426 in 2025. We analyzed every transaction for Rolex watches over the last decade and a half to expose price swings and market shifts you won’t find anywhere else.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A quick review of the durable and capable Casio G-Shock GW6900-1, with longterm ownership insights, photos, specs, and more.
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SJX Watches
The polarising Cubitus collection is not yet a year old, but Patek Philippe’s newest line of elegant sports watches has expanded in a big way with the Cubitus ref. 7128/1G-001 in a new ‘medium’ 40 mm size that transforms the wearing experience for the better. With summer now in full swing, it’s worth looking at this new Cubitus and considering what it means for the future of the collection. Featuring a silky 18k white gold case and bracelet, the smaller Cubitus practically drapes itself on the wrist, and is probably the most compelling launch yet from the new collection. Also available in rose gold (ref. 7128/1R-001), the new “medium” Cubitus is a luxury sports watch in the true sense of the term, combining everyday comfort and wearability with premium materials and high-quality finishing inside and out. For better or worse, the Cubitus retains several signature elements of the Nautilus such as the embossed sunburst blue dial and lozenge-shaped hands. Initial thoughts When the Cubitus launched last year, it was decried by many spectators as an unworthy successor to the sought-after Nautilus. I freely admit I never had a strong affinity for the Nautilus, which might explain my open mind toward the Cubitus, but I really like the faceted eight-sided crystal and find the overall design about as compelling as that of its esteemed predecessor. That said, I do wish the Cubitus had more of a distinct identity of its own. In the case of the current ref. 7128/1G-001 in 1...
Hodinkee
The group of 20 semi-finalists spans the globe, with some familiar young faces and some new names you probably haven't heard before.
Monochrome
Like many of you, we get excited by the delicate intricacies inside mechanical watches. When it’s an absurdly complex yet meticulously finished movement, we appreciate being able to dive into every little nook and cranny. So when watchmakers think about how to expose these beating hearts, we pay extra attention! With that in mind, here […]
Monochrome
Although the young microbrand Eska only resurfaced last year, it has a much longer track record to back up its name. Founded in 1918 in Granges, Switzerland, Eska made a name for itself with its robust tool watches, which proved popular in North and South American, Australian, and Asian markets. As many during the quartz […]
Deployant
Twenty years after the release of Sahara, the film adapted from Clive Cussler’s novel,DOXA pays a fresh tribute to the man who helped forge its legacy.This marks the third chapter in DOXA’s homage to legendary American novelist and explorer Clive Cussler - who would have turned 94 today, and whose adventure novels helped bring global recognition to SUB dive watches.
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Fratello
Open-worked high-end watches aren’t uncommon. In fact, at a certain level of exclusivity, they’re rather typical. Yet, when I opened my messages the other day, a head-turning piece was staring back at me. The new Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort is a unique-looking object because of its simplicity and finishing. Yes, I shot a […] Visit Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort to read the full article.
Monochrome
Legacies are created over time and with vision. A vision shared by a group of like-minded men and/or women, or an individual refusing to let go of it and go above and beyond to see it materialised. One such individual is Mansour Ojjeh, the Paris-born Saudi businessman and passionate lover of cars, who sadly passed […]
Hodinkee
The Glaswegian brand, known for its colorful and labor-intense dials, steps out from enamel.
Monochrome
We’ve recently reviewed the history of what is probably the most emblematic collection from IWC, the Portugieser. A range that has been around since the 1930s, it somehow encapsulates everything IWC is known for: complications, style and precision. But there’s another, more recent collection that’s as important, if not even more impactful, one that traces […]
Worn & Wound
By all accounts, Breitling seems to be experiencing a renaissance moment thanks to a few strong back-to-back years. Inspiration from its historical archives, contemporary trend chasing, strategic brand ambassadors, and strong culture building with storytelling elements have culminated in a change of perception in the budding enthusiast. Not too long ago, the common discourse surrounding Breitling was one of a brand that had lost its way. Now, though, they seem to have successfully flipped the script and reestablished their offerings as genuine contenders in every category of the luxury market. This year, in particular, the enthusiast market has been quick to heap praise upon each new release in stark contrast to previous release cycles. Of those new releases, the new Breitling Top Time B31 stood out to me as one that warranted a deeper discussion and full hands-on review. Part of a larger marketing push, Breitling took the opportunity to showcase three large pieces of information. First, dreamboat Austin Butler had signed on as the latest brand ambassador, clad in vintage motorcycle and mechanics attire. Second, a new collection of Top Time models would be available soon in a three-hand configuration, styled with a new design language. Third and finally, those Top Time watches would be powered by the new automatic B31 movement. While the origins of that movement are still somewhat debated, it marks a significant push by Breitling to update its entire movement lineup whil...
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Fratello
IFL Watches has transformed numerous timepieces with hand-painted dials. Now, the brand has worked its magic on the Doxa Sub 200 to create the Aquamarine Reef Turtle. And while it’s not an official collaboration, Doxa has approved of IFLW’s work. Spoiler alert: this might be my favorite artsy edition yet! One look at the IFL […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Doxa Aquamarine Reef Turtle to read the full article.
Monochrome
For many fans of IWC, the first collections that spring to mind are the brand’s emblematic Pilot watches, the iconic Portugieser and the Ingenieur. However, there is another collection at IWC with a more classical, understated and timeless character named after the Italian seaside village of Portofino. Appealing to men and women alike, the latest […]
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko returns to its Sport Collection with an even bolder and edgier take on its flagship chronograph with the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Combining an oversized case Brilliant Hard Titanium and a high-spec, high-beat chronograph movement, the striking new is Tentagraph is surprisingly not an all-new design but an iterative evolution that builds on the existing Sport Collection case. Initial Thoughts While a strength of Seiko itself, chronometry-focused Grand Seiko has historically struggled with sports watches, though not for lack of trying. In 2019 Grand Seiko launched the angular and aggressive Sport case featuring a facetted, polygonal form with a sapphire-covered bezel to celebrate 20 years of Spring Drive. Grand Seiko intended the design to evoke the mane of the brand’s lion mascot. In 2023 came the regular production Tokyo Lion series, and the brand also extended the design language into its jewelled Masterpiece watches. The “lion’s mane” case design reminds me of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept, and with the addition of an octagonal bezel the resemblance has only grown, though I wouldn’t say it is derivative – if anything the Grand Seiko case is a more boisterous take on the 45GS design from the late 1960s. The earlier Spring Drive GMT Chronograph SBGC275 with a less stylised case design I quite liked the Sport case when it was launched in 2019, especially the rose gold SBGC230, but it felt unfinished with a round bezel and buttons. With...
Revolution
One of the most influential American musicians of the 20th century, Johnny Cash used his fame to speak out against inequality, racism and prejudice. A life-long Rolex man, and the embodiment of cool, Cash sold more that 90 million albums in a career spanning five decades.
Fratello
If Ulysses had worn the Parmigiani Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Rose Gold Sandstone when encountering the Sirens while sailing the Mediterranean, he wouldn’t have had to tie himself to the mast. With its luxurious presence and soft colorway, the watch on his wrist would have left the Sirens speechless and, thus, harmless. Parmigiani’s new iteration […] Visit Introducing: The Parmigiani Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Rose Gold Sandstone - Silencing The Sirens to read the full article.
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