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Collective Horology Introduces their Latest Limited Edition, a Collaboration with Montblanc Featuring a Gorgeous Minerva Caliber Worn & Wound
Montblanc Featuring Oct 3, 2023

Collective Horology Introduces their Latest Limited Edition, a Collaboration with Montblanc Featuring a Gorgeous Minerva Caliber

Collective Horology, the private watch club/independent brand retailer/producer of thoughtful limited editions, is back with their latest release in an ongoing series of collaborations. This time, they’re working with Montblanc, tapping into the brand’s association with the historic Minerva manufacture, maker of some of the most important chronograph calibers in the history of watchmaking. The 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph “Blue Arrow” P.05 is a high end “What if…?” hypothetical come to life, and a great showcase for a truly special movement. As with all Collective limited editions, this one is something more than a reissue or a tweaked colorway. It exists to tell a specific story about the brand in a way that can often only be done from the outside.  According to Collective, the seed of inspiration for the P.05 came from Eric Wind, or more specifically a watch in his case at the 2022 Windup Watch Fair. That year, Eric brought a Minerva stopwatch to the show, and it reminded Collective founders Gabe Reilly and Asher Rapkin of Minerva’s sporting roots, opening up a series of entirely new design possibilities. The 1858 Monopusher Chronograph that Collective and Montblanc came up with drew on the sportier design cues from that stopwatch, including the colors, finishing techniques, and the case material (robust stainless steel, of course). The end result is a chronograph that has many key vintage inspired design elements that are core to Montblanc and Mi...

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W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Oct 3, 2023

Breaking Barriers with the AVI-8 Bell X-1 Limited Edition

In a world of speed and daring, where the limits of what’s possible are being pushed… there are those who dare to dream, and there are those who dare to ride. In 1947, legendary pilot Chuck Yeager climbed into the cockpit of the Bell X-1, a rocket-powered aircraft designed to break a barrier thought by many to be impossible-the speed of sound itself. And what is speed… but distance, over time. Fortunately, he had vision… a goal, and the courage to chase it. The post Breaking Barriers with the AVI-8 Bell X-1 Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Richard Mille RM 53-02 Oct 2, 2023

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Following our look at notable complications and artisanal masterpieces on offer at Sotheby’s Important Watches I in Hong Kong, we now consider the independent watchmaking highlights in the sale that takes place on October 7. The offerings in the sale range from establishment names like Philippe Dufour – on offer is a Simplicity 37 mm in platinum made after the original run – to newcomers like Pascal Coyon with a Besançon Observatory-certified chronometer. And the highlights also include the headline lot of the auction, the extravagant Richard Mille RM 53-02 in blue sapphire crystal. Important Watches I happens on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here.  The Richard Mille RM 53-02 Lot 2116: Pascal Coyon Chronometre  One of the most affordable offerings in the sale is the Pascal Coyon Chronometre, a watch inspired by the French watchmaker’s career as a watch and clock repairer in Bayonne. Though based on a Unitas 6498, Mr Coyon’s hand-wound movement bears a strong resemblance to classical 19th-century pocket watches from the likes of Longines. While the movement is still a Unitas 6498 at its core, it has been dressed up with frosted bridges and a snail cam regulator, amongst other things. Being one of his earlier watches, this has a plain, 42 mm polished steel case with a stepped bezel and a white lacquered dial with red numerals for “12” and “60”, complemented by Breguet-style hour and minute hands. This ...

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Panerai Introduces the Luminor Chrono Carbotech PAM01219 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Oct 2, 2023

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Chrono Carbotech PAM01219

Having already launched the Luminor Chrono Carbotech as the PAM01419 Navy Seals limited edition, Panerai is now adding it to the regular production line-up as the Luminor Chrono Carbotech PAM01219. Featuring the same carbon composite case and ETA-based P.9200 movement, the PAM01219 has a restrained, functional dial with blue accents. Initial thoughts The PAM01219 is a new version of the ETA-powered Panerai chronograph, so while it’s nothing novel technically, it is appealing for the no-frills design and lightweight carbon composite case. Prior versions of this chronograph were either less interesting, like the base model PAM01109 in steel, or over designed, like the PAM01419 Navy Seals edition with its sniper crosshair sub-dials. Stylistically, the PAM01219 is clear, clean, and free of superfluous elements. However, the PAM01219 is too expensive. It’s priced at about US$17,000, which is pricey any way you slice it, especially since most watches with the same movement from rival brands cost less (and much less in the case of the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono). At the same time, Panerai’s own catalogue includes the PAM00335 that has a ceramic case and in-house movement boasting an eight-day movement and mono-pusher chronograph, which makes it comparatively better value at just over US$20,000. Large, lightweight, and ETA The PAM01219 is classic Panerai in style with a clean dial that is a key part of its appeal. The dial is also symmetrical with a 30-minute chronograph count...

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The Most Expensive G-Shock Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 2, 2023

The Most Expensive G-Shock Watches

Since its introduction in 1983, the Casio G-Shock has been a game-changer, both for its parent company and for the wristwatch industry in general. The brainchild of Casio engineer Kikuo Abe, who designed it to be “toughest watch of all time” after the traumatic experience of having a vintage pocket watch from his grandfather destroyed in a fall to the ground, the first G-Shock pioneered the “Triple 10” concept that is at the core of the models to this day - 10-bar (100-meter) water resistance, 10-meter impact resistance, and 10-year battery life. It was a watch that was unapologetically big, tough, and utilitarian, and yet those who embraced it found it irresistibly stylish as well. Today, the G-Shock has not only become the undisputed flagship of Casio’s watch portfolio; it has become a sub-brand of its own, encompassing watches with a seemingly infinite array of styles, sizes, and colorways and an endlessly evolving level of avant-garde technology at their heart. The vast majority of G-Shocks, like the very first models from the 1980s, are still very affordable to almost any prospective buyer (hence their ubiquity on the wrists of cops, soldiers, and other modestly paid professionals for whom a rugged, multifunctional timepiece is essential), but several models over the years have pushed aggressively into a more luxurious echelon, in terms of both materials and price - particularly in the collection’s MR-G and MT-G subfamilies. The most expensive G-Shocks...

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[VIDEO] Missed Review: The Titanium Omega Seamaster 300 2231.50.00 Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster 300 2231.50.00 Oct 2, 2023

[VIDEO] Missed Review: The Titanium Omega Seamaster 300 2231.50.00

The Omega Seamaster has a rich and complex history that encompasses a broad range of styles over the generations. Odds are strong that each of us conjures a slightly different image upon hearing the word Seamaster, from the Bond examples of the ‘90s, to the PloProf of the ‘60s, or even the quaint, near formal examples from the ‘40s. That breadth is reflected in the modern Seamaster collection, which currently encompasses the Aqua Terra, the Diver 300, the Planet Ocean, and a range of Heritage models that include the likes of the Railmaster and the PloProf. This diversity of options has meant plenty of great references have come and gone, and a few may have even slipped through the cracks through no fault of their own. This Missed Review will focus on one such reference, the titanium Seamaster 300 2231.50.00 from the early ‘00s.  The modern Seamaster 300 picks the story up in 1993, sporting the word ‘professional’ on its dial and a helium release appendage at 10 o’clock. The new watch was about to get the boost of a lifetime thanks to a placement on the wrist of Pierce Brosnan in his portrayal of fictional British spy, James Bond in the 1995 film GoldenEye. It is this reference, the steel 2541.80.00 with quartz movement that generally pops into my head when I think about the Seamaster. It’s not a watch I find particularly attractive, but it is one that I associate with a specific era perhaps more than any other watch. There is something truly unique about t...

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Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fall Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Mercator created Oct 2, 2023

Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fall Auction

After delving into the notable complications in Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong auction on October 7, we shift our focus to the timepieces exhibiting a distinct artisanal touch, spanning the encyclopaedia of decorative techniques from cloisonné enamelling to wood marquetry. Several are exquisite examples of enamel crafted by the renowned artisans Anita Porchet and her eponymous workshop, along with a pocket watch with a miniature enamel made by Hélène May-Mercier for Patek Philippe. Another highlight is the commemorative Vacheron Constantin Mercator created to mark the handover of Hong Kong to China in 1997 that was the work of a Belgium husband-and-wife enamel workshop. Important Watches I takes place on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here.  Lot 2209: Vacheron Constantin Mercator “Hong Kong Handover 1997”  The transfer of sovereignty over Hong Kong from the United Kingdom to the People’s Republic of China was a significant historical event that brought an end to 156 years of colonial rule in the territory and marked the conclusion of the British Empire. To mark the handover, Vacheron Constantin created a special iteration of the Mercator. One of the brand’s best known models at the time, the Mercator set itself apart with a unique double retrograde display for the hours and minutes, with the top-of-the-line models having cloisonné enamel dials. While the initial Mercator editions portrayed entire continents or regi...

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IWC Revives the Big Pilot’s Watch Markus Bühler with a Tourbillon SJX Watches
IWC Revives Oct 2, 2023

IWC Revives the Big Pilot’s Watch Markus Bühler with a Tourbillon

One of the least known but perhaps most interesting iterations of IWC’s trademark oversized pilot’s watch is making a comeback, but with an upgraded movement and precious metal case. The Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler retains the key elements of its namesake 2008 original, but with a self-winding tourbillon movement inside a platinum case. The tourbillon is flying, while its cage takes the form of a turbine blade. A simple concept that played to the Big Pilot’s historical roots, the original model was conceived by a young Markus Bühler as part of a contest for IWC apprentices, but appealing enough that IWC made a dozen as a limited edition. Mr Bühler naturally won the contest and now oversees the entire assembly process at Manufakturzentrum, the IWC facility where both production of parts and assembly of in-house movements is done. Powered by the in-house cal. 82905, the Tourbillon Markus Bühler will naturally be put together at the Manufakturzentrum. Markus Bühler, now the Associate Director of Watch & Movement Assembly at Manufakturzentrum Initial thoughts The original Markus Bühler was interesting and appealing because it captured the spirit of a pilot’s watch in a novel manner while still retaining the functional aesthetics expected of such a watch. The turbine seconds was a simple modification that worked perfectly, both visually and conceptually. Now the idea has been brought back, but in a fancier package. The new Markus Bühler sti...

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A Week In Watches, Episode 64: Heritage Divers Take A Step Into The Present; Colorful Chronos & More Worn & Wound
Tudor Oct 1, 2023

A Week In Watches, Episode 64: Heritage Divers Take A Step Into The Present; Colorful Chronos & More

A Week In Watches returns this week with a look at a trio of divers that take their inspiration from the past, and apply in a thoroughly modern way. No faux lume or tropical dials in sight, prompting us to wonder if that trend is behind us. Divers from Oris, Tudor, and Seiko all paint a clear picture of a way forward that’s not a carbon copy of the past. You might say Seiko has always been ahead in that game, and their latest Prospex divers, which bring the 62MAS flavor into a tidy modern skindiver case that we’ve loved since it was released in 2020. If this is what we can expect more of, count us in. Elsewhere, Farer dropped a pair of new chronographs called the Chrono-Contempo with colorways inspired by two vibrant streets found in London. These are Farer through and through, with unexpected colors and a clean, modern design language. As usual, Farer nails the proportions here thanks to their use of the hand wound SW510M from Sellita. Finally, a collaboration between our friends at Fratello and Minase comes together for the second time, continuing a trend of subtle yet powerful dial executions from the pair. The latest is the M-3 Nori, and gets a dial inspired by Japanese seaweed, which comes together way better than you might expect. Here’s to the next one. The post A Week In Watches, Episode 64: Heritage Divers Take A Step Into The Present; Colorful Chronos & More appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Recycle your broken watch for free, while getting cash off a new Timex Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix or Panerai doing their Oct 1, 2023

Recycle your broken watch for free, while getting cash off a new Timex

Going green is all the rage when it comes to corporate happy-speak, but my salt shaker is always within arm’s reach whenever I read about a company’s latest eco-friendly initiative. The watch industry is no different. For every Ulysse Nardin, Maurice Lacroix, or Panerai doing their part to protect the oceans or reuse raw materials, … ContinuedThe post Recycle your broken watch for free, while getting cash off a new Timex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Porsche GTR 3 for Rennsport, the Greatest Concert Film Ever Made, and a New Night Stage from Autodromo Worn & Wound
Sep 30, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Porsche GTR 3 for Rennsport, the Greatest Concert Film Ever Made, and a New Night Stage from Autodromo

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. Porsche Reveals 911 GT3 R for Rennsport Reunion This year marked the 22nd year of the Rennsport reunion, a gathering of Porsche enthusiasts to honor the brand’s motorsport traditions and show off their latest projects. This time around was a bit different than usual, including the reveal of a bonkers new GT3 R concept, designed purely for enthusiasts, and not around any racing regulatory framework. Porsche has been known to do such things, though rarely do they turn into an edition that you can purchase (theoretically). 77 examples of the GT3 R Rennsport will be produced, each will cost about a million bucks. The car itself gets a 611 horsepower naturally aspirated flat 6 that will rev out to a glorious 9,400 rpm redline. It’s everything we love about extreme 911s in one radical package. Read more about it here. An Oral History of the Greatest Concert Film Ever Made Jonathan Demme’s Stop Making Sense is back in theaters, and the nearly 40 year old film is reaching an entirely new audience. It’s often called the greatest concert film ever made, and seeing it projected onto a g...

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The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa by Bamford is one for the motoring enthusiasts Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Sep 30, 2023

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa by Bamford is one for the motoring enthusiasts

A three-way collaboration between TAG Heuer, Japanese motorsport team and fashion label Team Ikuzawa, and legendary watch customiser George Bamford. Based on the 42mm Carrera Chronograph, it’s a love letter to racing heritage, style, and innovation. A Japan-only limited edition of 100 pieces, it’s a bit of a tease for the rest of the world. … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa by Bamford is one for the motoring enthusiasts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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REVIEW: Hands On With The Rebellion RE-Volt Valtteri Bottas C43 Limited Edition WatchAdvice
Richard Mille Sep 30, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The Rebellion RE-Volt Valtteri Bottas C43 Limited Edition

Unveiled during the Monaco Grand Prix this year, Rebellion launched two limited edition RE-Volt pieces in partnership with the Alfa Romeo F1 team, and we’ve be able to go hands on with the Valtteri Bottas model! What We Love The layered coloured carbon caseSkeletonised dialThe actual pieces of the F1 car in the watch! What We Don’t Lack of water resistanceVelcro strap not as premium or comfortableMinimal power reserve Overall Rating: 8.375/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 8.5/10 As a fan of F1, it’s not everyday you get to go hands on and review a watch that the drivers wear. Let’s face it, many of the F1 teams have some very high end timing partners, like Richard Mille with Ferrari and Maclaren, whilst others like TAG Heuer and IWC are more mass luxury, some of the pieces the drivers sport are not, like the Lake Tahoe Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Lewis Hamilton has been seen with this year! So when Hardy Brothers, who are the official retailer for Rebellion in Australia, called and said they’ve one of the limited edition Valtteri Bottas C43 RE-Volt pieces available, let’s just say I was keen to get it on my wrist! The Rebellion RE-Volt Valtteri Bottas C43 Limited Edition to 50 Pieces Initial Thoughts Seeing this piece in person, you can’t help get some very strong Richard Mille and Hublot vibes from it. Partly due to the case designed in the Tonneau shape that is now synonymous with RM, and perhaps elements of the design an...

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Huy Tran Worn & Wound
Tissot Heritage 1938 Automatic COSC Sep 29, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Huy Tran

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Huy Tran shares a well considered trio that touches on heritage and utility while staying entirely within the practical realm.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. A 3-watch-collection is a fairly common topic of the watch community, and for good reasons. It represents a somewhat minimalist solution for those who still want to enjoy the fascination of these little machines but don’t like the idea of succumbing to consumerism craze. To be honest, I’m actually one of those people and am fancying the potential of selling all my watches to start again with an empty 3-slots watchbox. So this challenge is the perfect opportunity for me to simulate an imaginary outcome and see if I like what I come up with. My three choices reflect the spirit of minimalism that I mention, they are all time-only three-handers that offered by brands from the same watch conglomerate and one of them has just been released recently and gave me the idea. Tissot Heritage 1938 Automatic COSC (Salmon Dial) – $825 When a watch comes with the word “heritage” you know you’re dealing with some vintage inspired design. In fact, this Tissot Heritage 1938 is reminiscent of the watches they produced in the 1930’s, with a classic looking case in a compact but contemporary size of 39mm. The tasteful salmon dial is matte and occupies most of the watch face with ...

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Seiko Honors Bruce Lee with a New Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Seiko Honors Bruce Lee Sep 29, 2023

Seiko Honors Bruce Lee with a New Limited Edition

Since its relaunch a few years ago, the Seiko 5 Sports line has proven to be a solid blank canvas for a number of limited and special edition watches, covering a range of diverse subjects. We’ve seen everything from classic comic strips to niche Japanese pop culture represented on the dials of Seiko 5 Sports watches, and earlier this month Seiko added another pop culture titan to the growing line. The new Seiko 5 Sports Bruce Lee Limited Edition honors the actor, martial artist, and teacher with a watch that pays tribute in several subtle (and not so subtle ways).  The most prominent design feature here is certainly the dragon image on the dial, which Seiko confirms is based on an image drawn by Lee himself. Dragon imagery plays a large role in Lee’s aesthetic, so it certainly makes sense in the context of this watch. If you were told that a new limited edition Seiko 5 would prominently feature a dragon on the dial, you’d probably expect it to be over the top in nature, but the black on black nature of the motif tones it down considerably and makes everything a lot more subtle.  The other notable feature of the Bruce Lee Limited Edition is the bezel, which features characters that represent the principles of Jeet Kune Do, the hybrid martial art that Lee developed. Roughly translated, the characters read “Using no way as way; having no limitation as limitation.” Seiko has chosen a black leather strap for the watch that is meant to conjure clothing associated wit...

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Hands-On: the Isotope Hydrium California Worn & Wound
Isotope Hydrium California Isotope initially Sep 28, 2023

Hands-On: the Isotope Hydrium California

Isotope initially piqued my interest two years ago with their uniquely design-forward Hydrium “Will Return” dive watch. This timepiece was intentionally crafted to resemble the iconic “Will Return” sign often seen in shop windows, and its “Why not?” approach left a lasting impression on me.  Fast forward two years, and Isotope, founded in 2016 by José and Joana Miranda and headquartered in England, has expanded its Hydrium line with the Hydrium California. This watch, like its predecessors, boldly defies the conventions of typical dive watches, drawing inspiration from Isotope’s own heritage as much as from classic dive watches from the past century.  $1115 Hands-On: the Isotope Hydrium California Case Stainless steel Movement Landeron Automatic Dial Black Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap FKM Rubber Water Resistance 300 meters Dimensions 40 x 48mm Thickness 12.9mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $1115 When the Hydrium Califonia first arrived the first thing I noticed was its case. The starkly uniform bead-blasted finish, which reduces the risk of unwanted reflections that may attract predators during ocean adventures according to Isotope, immediately let me know I could expect this quirky dive watch to be utilitarian not only by design, but also in practice.  I eagerly strapped it to my wrist and, despite its generous thickness of 14.9mm, including the double-domed Sapphire Crystal, was pleased to learn that it wears true to its 40 mm diame...

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Introducing the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Zodiac x Worn & Wound Sep 28, 2023

Introducing the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions

Fueled by nostalgia for the 90s, with a touch of 80s too, the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tags are a spiritual follow-up to our highly sought-after collaboration from 2021. Inspired by the sights, sensations, and joy of playing laser tag, they are watches that were imagined in three states of illumination – in light, in blacklight, and in the dark, each creating a different experience. Over two years in the making, the watches feature photoreactive elements on the dial, bezel, strap, and even the case and packaging. Two watches unlike any you’ve encountered before, the only question is, which side will you choose, Ultraviolet or Infrared? The post Introducing the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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The Science of Steel: The Stuff of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements and the Backbone of Watchmaking Quill & Pad
Sep 28, 2023

The Science of Steel: The Stuff of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements and the Backbone of Watchmaking

Joshua Munchow talks about steel here, the metal that made the world! Watch cases and other movement components are commonly made from certain stainless steels, 304 and 316L being the most frequent. It also happens that some brands hold exclusive rights to use specific alloys in the production of its watches. Here's what you should know about steel.

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Glimpsing the Future, 2023 Franck Muller Novelties | In Conversation with Nicholas Rudaz Revolution
Franck Muller Sep 28, 2023

Glimpsing the Future, 2023 Franck Muller Novelties | In Conversation with Nicholas Rudaz

Embark on a journey with Revolution as we look into the future of horology with our exclusive review of Franck Muller’s sensational 2023 novelties as Wei sits down for a riveting conversation with Nicholas Rudaz, the visionary CEO of Franck Muller. Discover the cutting-edge designs, exquisite craftsmanship, and innovative timepieces that promise to redefine the […]

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Seiko Launches Three US Exclusive Dive Watches Inspired by Cold Water American Diving Locales Worn & Wound
Seiko Launches Three US Exclusive Sep 27, 2023

Seiko Launches Three US Exclusive Dive Watches Inspired by Cold Water American Diving Locales

The SPB line in Seiko’s Prospex collection needs no introduction, and to many it represents old-school Seiko excellence: historic design with modern specs at reasonable prices. In particular, the SPB143, 145, and 147 are especially beloved thanks to their wearability and 62MAS lineage. Seiko is now introducing three new U.S. Special Edition models based on that reference, each corresponding to a cold-water American diving locale. The SPB419 makes the biggest statement of the three, and its striking gradient dial is intended to invoke the northern Great Lakes’ blue ice, notably in Michigan. A rare natural phenomenon, this blue ice is achieved when sustained temperatures allow water to freeze and thicken over long periods of time. When light then hits the ice, the red part of the light (i.e. longer wavelengths) are absorbed while shorter blue wavelengths are transmitted. This seldom seen sight is truly something to behold, and Seiko captures its essence here. The SPB421 and SPB423 take us from the Lakes to Alaska where we meet a different type of icy structure: glacial moulins. Also known as mills, moulins are well-like structures that form from weaknesses in the ice and can sometimes reach hundreds of meters to the bottom of the glacier. The SPB421’s dark blue dial with a subtle gradation captures the ice’s color at depth – you know, in case you haven’t seen it yourself, while the 423’s dial is meant to evoke the light gray tones of glacial ice as a whole. Al...

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Review: Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor Sep 27, 2023

Review: Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor

When we first featured at the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor right after it was unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2023, it was clear that the model had struck a chord among almost those who had the pleasure to see it in the metal. The design is distinctively Cartier in style, slightly whimsical, yet stands apart from almost everything else in the brand’s catalogue.  Cartier’s legacy as a renowned jeweller is indisputable, and this timepiece is a fusion of its knowledge in jewellery and watches, with a good dose of the traditional Cartier style. From the lacquer case inlays to the artful skeletonisation, the result is a balanced face that is entirely original.  Key takeaways The design is an ideal combination of a contemporary, tasteful skeleton movement with the historical Santos case design The plane micro-rotor is just right in size, neither too big nor too small, and adds just the right amount of whimsy without being gimmicky The large, as opposed to XL, case is ideal for the movement, but some might find it too compact As it is with all Cartier skeleton movements, the Etachron regulator feels out of place Initial thoughts I usually take a loupe to a watch for a closer look, and when I did so with the Santos skeleton the movement’s design shone through. The plates and bridges of the brand-new cal. 9629 MC are both structural and add to the aesthetic brilliance of this piece. Though Cartier has long made skeleton watches a hallmark of its line-up, the cal. 9629 M...

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The Depancel Serie-R 80s revels in neon brashness Time+Tide
Sep 27, 2023

The Depancel Serie-R 80s revels in neon brashness

The styles of the 1980s are possibly the most revered through rose-tinted glasses, with nostalgia contributing to the global success of shows like Stranger Things and endless Sci-Fi franchises. It’s also a praised era of motorsports, with turbocharged cars heralding heroes like Alain Prost and Ayrton Senna. As a brand with racing in their DNA, … ContinuedThe post The Depancel Serie-R 80s revels in neon brashness appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Inside Vortic as they Launch the Colorado Watch Company Worn & Wound
Rado Watch Company Sep 26, 2023

Inside Vortic as they Launch the Colorado Watch Company

The story of American watchmaking is long, complex, and undertold. It’s regrettably easy to consign the period of this country’s history as a global titan in watch production to an appendix in the greater history of watchmaking writ large. But the fact remains that the United States, in the 19th century and well into the 20th, produced millions of timepieces at an incredible pace, developing manufacturing technologies that would scale and improve both here and abroad. We don’t make watches at such a scale anymore, but there is a growing movement in the American watchmaking space that looks to that period as inspiration, and as a reminder that if it can happen once, it can happen again. The Vortic Watch Company is one of the key players in a new age of watchmaking in America, and they’ve just announced a major step forward that redefines what the company does, and where it might be heading in the future.  I have always thought of Vortic as one of the bedrock companies in the burgeoning microbrand space. They are a mainstay at Windup Watch Fairs, and carry many of the hallmarks of the most successful and well established microbrands. The watches are original and purely their own thing, their team is accessible, and the identity of the brand itself is well considered and established. But it would be incorrect to think of them as purely part of the pack, or even as part of an upper tier of the pack given their longevity and success. They occupy a truly unique niche th...

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Bremoir Introduces the Eastern, a New Watch Inspired by a Los Angeles Art Deco Classic Worn & Wound
Sep 26, 2023

Bremoir Introduces the Eastern, a New Watch Inspired by a Los Angeles Art Deco Classic

Since its completion in 1930, the Eastern Columbia Building has long been a symbol of the Art Deco movement and the timeless elegance that period in architecture came to represent. Located in downtown Los Angeles, this historic landmark is characterized by its intricate terracotta facade adorned with colorful geometric patterns and stunning clock tower, which is crowned by a rotating neon clock that has become a symbol of the building. In this way, the building hasn’t just become a symbol of Los Angeles’ history of prosperity and beauty, but of the bygone elegance that still inspires brands today, nearly a century later. One such brand is Bremoir. Having previously designed their Lexington based on the Chrysler Building, Bremoir has a longstanding history of being inspired by the golden age of Art Deco. Now, with the release of their limited-edition Eastern model, we are seeing a truly delightful interpretation of the Los Angeles landmark. Released today, the first color in the new Eastern collection is called Pacific. Aptly named, the dial is tonally bright blue (similar to the terracotta of the building’s facade) and navy (a nod to the Pacific Ocean), handsomely balanced within a stainless steel case and complemented by the brown leather strap. The two tones of the dial are accentuated by gold accents for the hands, numerals, and hour markers. It is here that we see the small details which resonate with the Art Deco design of the Eastern Columbia Building. You have...

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