Hodinkee
Introducing: The Longines Legend Diver – Now In 39mm
Refreshing the brand's mid-century diver for 2023 with a smaller case size and two dial colors.
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
TWO FUTURE G-SHOCK ICONS: THE 40TH ANNIVERSARY FULL CARBON 5000
Anniversaries in the watch world are kind of a big deal. Maybe even too big, according to some, but there’s something to be said about a design and model that has not only stood the test of time but has also come to define its entire genre within the industry. G-Shock and its iconic DW-5000 series watch has done exactly that. It’s incredible considering that 40 years have gone by since Casio Engineer Kikuo Ibe’s vision became a reality. Story has it that Ibe began to conceptualize what a truly shock-resistant watch could be when his own mechanical watch fell and shattered on the ground after a collision with a fellow pedestrian. In the early 1980s, a specialized team at Casio, nicknamed “Team Tough”, began to test and develop prototypes. During this time, Ibe famously found inspiration from a rubber ball on a playground. Eventually engineers incorporated this rubber core idea into the very first G-Shock, model DW-5000C, in 1983. Four decades of innovation and iteration later, Casio is proud to present the culmination of the latest and greatest in technology, material science, and coloration: The 40th Anniversary Full Carbon 5000 Limited Edition. Anniversaries in the watch world are kind of a big deal. Maybe even too big, according to some, but there’s something to be said about a design and model that has not only stood the test of time but has also come to define its entire genre within the industry. G-Shock and its iconic DW-5000 series watch has done exactly...
Worn & Wound
Norqain Introduces the First Wild ONE Featuring Solid Gold, Plus a New Blacked Out Version
We’re a little more than a year into the life of the Wild ONE, Norqain’s ambitious sports watch featuring their proprietary Norteq material. In a catalog of watches that are mostly inspired by classic, vintage watch design cues, the Wild ONE stands out as being unapologetically modern, both in terms of its aesthetics and the raw materials. This watch is part of an ongoing turn within the industry to alternative materials based in carbon fibers, plastics, and uncommon metals and alloys. According to Norqain, the combination of Norteq and rubber used in the case allows for a watch that can be rated to an unreal 5,000g shock test, which would likely create an impact that the wearer would have a hard time walking away from. Norqain has been framing the Wild ONE all along as a pure sports watch, but with these latest variants, I continue to wonder if it’s really more of an incredibly impact resistant design object. To be clear, I like this watch as a design object. I’m not taking it mountain biking, rock climbing, skiing, or anything else that the Norqain team thinks I might want to do with it. But I do like the way it looks and the way it’s made, and I think the latest releases seen here expand on the design language in a fun way. First up is the first Wild ONE to make use of solid gold, the aptly named Wild ONE Gold. The top section of the case is crafted from polished 18-carat red gold, with the base section made of black Norteq. The middle features the Wild ONE...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: MB&F;'s Horological Machine 11 ‘Architect’ – A House For The Wrist (Live Pics)
Drawing on Büsser's love of 1960s design, the new watch has more rooms than a New York City apartment and is one of the most fascinating MB&F; designs yet.
Deployant
New: hands-on with the MB&F; HM11 “Architect”
MB&F; adds to their Horological Machine collection with the new HM11 "Architect", and introducing their 21st caliber, inspired by architecture of the 1960s.
Hodinkee
A Photo Diary Of My Week In Geneva For The 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie De Geneve (Complete With Lots Of Wristshots)
Auctions, independents, the GPHG, and so many incredible watches.
SJX Watches
The Logic and Lavishness of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Ref. 5260
Unveiled barely a week after the reasonably traditional Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P, the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater ref. 5260 is unexpected, over the top, and entirely logical. It’s available in two variants, the simpler ref. 5260/355R-001 on a strap and the no-expense-spared ref. 5260/1455R-001 that’s set with gemstones on practically every surface, even the hour and minute hands. Now the most expensive ladies’ watch in the Patek Philippe catalogue – the ref. 5260/1455R-001 on bracelet costs CHF2.5 million with taxes – the ref. 5260 is a first in several ways. It’s the first Patek Philippe sports model with a minute repeater, and also the first ladies’ sports model with a “grand” complication. In fact, the ref. 5260 is the most complicated sports model of any kind, with the next-most-complicated being the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar ref. 5740. The ref. 5260/1455R-001 Initial thoughts I can certainly comprehend the appeal of the ref. 5260, even though it’s evidently not a watch catered to me. As far as crazily over-the-top ladies watches with impressive sertissage and impeccable horological credentials go, it doesn’t get any better than this. Mechanically the ref. 5260 is identical to Patek Philippe’s revered minute repeating models since it is powered by the R 27, the longstanding self-winding movement found in the current ref. 5178 and all the way back to the ref. 3979. In acoustic and watchmaking terms, the Aquanaut repeater...
Worn & Wound
A new Kurono Chronograph Shows How the Brand Develops New Refinements with Each Release
There was a time not too long ago when news of a new watch from Kurono Tokyo could nearly break the internet. OK, that’s an exaggeration, but as the brand was building up a head of steam, it felt like loads of hype accompanied every new announcement. This was the peak of pandemic era watch speculation, and Kurono was in the middle of it. Over time, the frenzy has cooled and Kurono announcements are no longer the object of such intense scrutiny. I get the sense that Hajime Asaoka and his team are just fine with that – this is a brand that has instituted layers of “anti flipping” safeguards to their ordering process, after all. But a curious thing is happening: as the hysteria for Kurono’s limited editions has waned, the watches themselves seem to be getting better. Not just in terms of their aesthetics (that’s a matter of opinion, of course) but in the way they’re made and their ergonomics. It would be incredibly easy for Kurono to just keep cranking out new colorways, but every new release is indicative of subtle refinements to the brand’s approach, applying new techniques with every watch. Their latest, the Chronograph 3 “Hisui”, is a great example of the way the brand has made little changes and continues to experiment while still hewing close to what has become a distinct house style. Kurono’s chronographs have evolved into colorful “sector” designs over the years, and this example has what I think is a very appealing mint green colorway that...
Worn & Wound
The Latest Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Taps into Japanese Skateboarding Culture
For those of you who only know the Tony Hawks of the world when it comes to skateboarding celebrities, might I introduce you to Yuto Horigome. Born in Tokyo on January 7, 1999, Yuto began skateboarding at six, influenced by his father. Rising through the ranks of Japanese competitions as a teenager, he moved to the U.S. after high school and quickly excelled in Street League Skateboarding, winning three 2018 stops within a year of his debut. Horigome achieved numerous milestones, including being the first Japanese skateboarder to win the X Games in 2019 and securing the World Championship in 2021, and in 2023, he became the first Japanese skateboarder to triumph at the historic Tampa Pro contest in the United States. With a resume like this, it’s no wonder that Seiko has released their latest Seiko 5 Sport in collaboration with the skateboarding wunderkind. This automatic GMT is the perfect balance of Seiko’s trademark style with a nod to the Tokyo that Horigome-san knows and loves. For starters, the 42.5mm stainless steel case and bracelet are coated in black which works nicely as the backdrop for the blue and purple bezel, inspired by Tokyo sunsets. The exhibition back’s Hardlex crystal is decorated with Yuto’s signature for an added personalized touch. Underneath the crystal, one can see the 4R34 caliber at work. This is a limited edition model with a limited production run of just 2,700 pieces. Each unit will be serialized, and the retail price is $520. Ava...
SJX Watches
Leica Shifts Focus with the ZM 11
Having introduced the ZM 1 and ZM 2 wristwatches in 2018, Leica now launches its first sports watch with ZM 11. Deviating entirely from the camera-inspired aesthetics of the earlier models, the ZM 11 is a straightforward three-hander in a minimalist style with an integrated bracelet (or strap). But like its predecessors, the ZM 11 is equipped with a movement made by a specialist, in this case Chronode. Initial thoughts On its face, the ZM 11 comes across as uninspiring at first, appearing similar to many current luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets. But on closer inspection it reveals interesting details, including a nicely finished case and bracelet with facetted, brushed surfaces. Also notable is the quick-release mechanism for the bracelet that’s activated by a red button, a reference to Leica cameras. The red button aside, however, the design doesn’t capture the essence of a Leica camera as the earlier ZM 1 and ZM 2 did. The earlier pair incorporated camera-inspired details into functional elements, like a patented “push-piece” crown that mimics the push of a shutter-release button. While the ZM 1 and ZM 2 are arguably Leica watches, the ZM 11 feels more like a Leica-branded watch. Priced around US$7,000 for the base model, the ZM 11 is competitively priced as far as integrated-bracelet sports watches go. The IWC Ingenieur, for instance, is about 40% pricier. However, such sports watches are generally priced at a premium relatively to everything else...
Worn & Wound
The Holiday Gift Guide to Finding Something for Everyone with Fossil
With the Holidays coming up quickly, at times it can be extremely difficult to find that ideal special something for everyone in your life. Our friends at Fossil have worked to make it a bit easier to find a gift for anyone and everyone-from an absolute icon, like the Disney x Fossil Special Edition Classic Mickey Mouse Watch to a goes-with-anything daily carry solution like the Lennox Messenger. With this list, you’re sure to discover the perfect present for just about anybody. Released the same year as The Walt Disney Company’s 100 Year Anniversary, this special-edition Classic Disney Mickey Mouse Watch is the crown jewel in the new Disney Fossil Collection. It’s the modern take on one of the most iconic products in horology. It’s the gift that every Disney or watch enthusiast will love as it simply oozes the concept simply know as… collectibility. It boasts a Japanese automatic movement, which can be spot through both its display caseback, as well as a small aperture on the dial at the 8 o’clock position. It also comes complete with a 40mm stainless steel case, a black Italian leather strap, a white glossy dial, and Disney’s Mickey Mouse print with those instantly recognizable, white-gloved hour and minute hands. It’s guaranteed to bring a smile to anyone’s face. The Lennox Messenger in Medium Brown is a slick, modern take on a timeless carry solution. It’s perfect for anyone with an on-the-go soul who needs that professional vibe, but wants someth...
Hodinkee
Video: Jean-Claude Biver On Selling Blancpain, The James Bond Partnership, Hublot And Hip-Hop, And Starting The Biver Brand
The watch industry giant sits down with Yoni Ben-Yehuda in Material Good's 24Ours series.
Worn & Wound
Timex Introduces a Trio of Watches Inspired by the Art of Keith Haring
Across the 80’s, it would have been hard to miss the cultural impact that Keith Haring’s work had. Influenced by the graffiti culture of New York City, Haring mixed visual storytelling with an irreverence that caught the attention of art elite and the average Joe alike. More than 30 years on from his death, Haring’s legacy has been immortalized in everything from Pandora rings to H&M; capsules. Now, Timex is honoring the artist with three new references that show the whimsy and urbanity of Haring’s work. Inspired by Haring’s early work of white graffiti on dark subway tiles, these three watches have a striking contrast of black-and-white that instantly makes them hard to miss. While elements of Haring’s work touch on the design, each reference is wholly Timex, making this a collaboration that highlights both the artist and the maker. The Timex x Keith Haring Easy Reader (ref: TW2W25400) is first on the list for those looking to show off some 80’s-style high art graffiti. It features an INDIGLO backlight, quartz movement, mineral glass crystal, and a 30 meter water-resistant design. The watch stands out with a customized strap featuring Haring’s work, adding a further dimension to the co-branding experience. With a 38mm case diameter and 18mm lug width, it strikes a balanced profile for both men and women to enjoy. Next on the list is the Timex x Keith Haring T80 (ref: TW2W25500), a digital watch that’s equipped with a chronograph, daily alarm, and month,...
Worn & Wound
Swatch and The Simpsons Meet for a Watch Honoring the Long Running Series
I am an unabashed fan of Swatch. I’ve always loved Swatch watches, and as I’ve gotten deeper and deeper into the hobby over the years, my appreciation for them has only grown. They occupy a position that only a few other brands can claim, which is that they’re both an entry point into the hobby, and an arena for very serious collecting. Seriously, Swatch collecting is almost a separate category from watch collecting entirely, and requires a completely different base of knowledge, and, often, an appreciation for things that more mainstream collectors don’t often think about (like packaging, to name just one example). Swatch has been on something of a roll lately in my opinion, releasing a slew of watches that are genuinely interesting and visually striking, and sometimes paying homage to the brand’s early days in unexpected ways. One of my favorite pastimes around here is calling out the great things Swatch does besides the neverending collaborations with their luxury group siblings (it’s no secret that I’m not the biggest fan of the MoonSwatch and new Blancpain collabs), and a recent release, a collaboration of a different sort, caught my eye. Yes, Swatch has a new watch featuring classic iconography from The Simpsons, one of the most omnipresent pieces of pop culture in our lives over the last three decades. It’s a perfectly cromulent watch if there ever was one. The Seconds of Sweetness watch uses Homer’s famous pink donut as a motif, with ever pres...
Quill & Pad
30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore: Pride of the Nation?
Here Alexey Kutkovoy looks at the look at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 'Pride of the Nation' series, which means we’re talking about the embodiment of symbols of national pride in luxury sports watches.
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands On With The Aventi Golden Tiger
The Aventi Golden Tiger is a watch that will definitely turn heads and have people stop you to ask, “What are you wearing?” What We Love Hand-engraved Sapphire and 24K Tiger head!Sapphire caseWrist presence What We Don’t The buckle doesn’t sit flush with the strapIt takes a while to wear the strap inIt will be large for some people Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 Aventi is a brand that has grown from strength to strength over the past few years. Aventi has gone from its small beginnings here in Australia to now being a fully-fledged Swiss manufacturer, using some of the best watchmakers and techniques in the business with a unique and disruptive business model. The Aventi Goolden Tiger is a piece that needs to be seen up close and personal to appreciate it fully. The brand has partnered with a range of watchmakers and component producers, some of the best in the industry, and utilises their on-demand system for their higher-end pieces, ensuring the quality isn’t compromised and that each piece is finished to the highest standards. In addition, their Aventi GT-01S Calibre is a Swiss Made hand-wound Tourbillon movement with an accuracy of -4/+4 seconds per day, which is greater than COSC. Initial Thoughts Given Watch Advice’s founder, Chamath (@champsg), has the Aventi Wraith in Sapphite, and having worn in and played around with it many times, I was confident in what I was getting myself into with...
Quill & Pad
Presenting ‘Making Time’: The Greatest Watch Film Ever Made (In My Extremely Biased Opinion) – Reprise
Describing 'Making Time' as “the greatest watch film ever made” is a pretty bold claim, especially as it’s a film about people rather than watches. But you can judge if Ian Skellern's headline is hyperbolic for yourself.
Hodinkee
Business News: All Of The 2023 GPHG Winners – And Our Quick Takes
Audemars Piguet's Code 11.59 Universelle RD #4 takes home best in show; here are the rest of the winners from watchmaking's biggest awards show.
Hodinkee
Photo Report: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Exhibit Tells The Story Of An Icon
History, design, mechanics – all are on display in New York for the next few weeks.
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – JT
Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader JT takes us through watches from his own personal collection, purchased largely on the pre-owned market for under $5,000. This real-life 3 for 5k is also thematically coherent, to say the least, with a trio of white dialed sports watches that cover a lot of ground, and somehow work well together as a thoughtful, wearable collection that features an indie favorite, a hot collaboration, and an uncommon example of a classic chronograph. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Omega Speedmaster Reduced “Marui” (3510.20) – $3,000 This was the watch that started it all. I have a small wrist (6.25″), and I love white objects (Kenya Hara’s book, “White,” resides next to my white camera collection). I fell in love with the Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project, and after lots of research and patience, I decided I wanted a Speedmaster Reduced, and subsequently secured this Speedmaster for a very reasonable price. Image courtesy Bob’s Watches It didn’t come with a bracelet, but it actually worked in my favor because I wanted to pair it with a flat link (AKA Ed White) bracelet anyway, so it helped me bring the cost of the watch lower (an OEM 1469/811 is worth at least $500). Seiko x Rowing Blazers 5 Sports – $500 After spending way too much time doing my research, “buying the seller,” and reading forums to check my work, the inte...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Pays Tribute to Philippe Stern with the Minute Repeater Alarm Ref. 1938P
To celebrate Philippe Stern’s 85th birthday, Patek Philippe has released the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P-001. The 30-piece limited edition is a minute repeater with a novel alarm function that chimes the programmed time, powered by a new calibre that will never be repeated. The watch is also a tribute in a literal sense: the fired enamel dial bears a monochromatic portrait of Philippe Stern, now the honorary president of Patek Philippe and the man who laid the foundations of the Geneva watchmaker’s present-day success. Initial thoughts This watch was long anticipated since it was first teased for Only Watch 2023, where it was announced as a unique piece made for the charity auction followed by a limited edition release. Now we have the specifics of the watch and it is impressive in technique, even if the dial is surprising at first sight. Evocative of the iconic black-and-white portrait of Francis Ford-Coppola’s 1972 film The Godfather, portrait of Mr Stern initially feels out of place in such a classical watch. But then it is perhaps not as apparent on a wrist when reading the time, and more importantly, considering Mr Stern’s achievements he deserves an overwhelmingly prominent place on a watch. It is a certainty that the buyers of the 30 watches will be clients personally acquainted with Mr Stern – word has it that all were allocated by Geneva prior to launch – and I imagine all of them would be happy to concede part of the dial to him. With four new pa...
![[VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/11/Oris_AquisPro_WEB_5.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M
Oris has a seriously capable modern diver on their hands with the Aquis. What’s more, they’ve created an original design that’s easily associated with the brand in the process. Oris have dabbled into more niche diver territory with things like the Aquis Depth Gauge, but never into extreme realms. Until now, that is. This year, Oris has upgraded the Aquis Pro from a 1000M diver, to a 4000M diver. The change doesn’t make much practical difference for most of us, but adds a heap of bragging rights to the Aquis name as it joins some elite company in the world of ultra-deep divers. The new Aquis Pro is a statement from Oris, and places the watch within a unique niche of the dive acth genre in the process. Ultra deep dive watches are a strange breed. Not only are they tricky to design and build, they’re also quite hard to pressure test properly without highly specialized equipment. We’ve seen brands go as far as building their own apparatus to validate depth ratings, particularly as they go beyond 3,000 meters, or 10,000 feet. In the case of the deepest divers, like the Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep and the Rolex Deepsea Challenge, which both go well beyond 10,000 meters, or 30,000 feet, pressure testing is rigorous and complex, and can even involve real world validation strapped to the exterior of vessels traveling to the depths of the sea. $6200 [VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M Case Titanium Movement Oris caliber 400 Dial Blue wave degrade L...
Quill & Pad
Complete List and Photos of All the Winners at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Ultra-Complication Wins Aiguille d’Or
Here is the complete list of the winners at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Enjoy!
Hodinkee
Introducing: The 30-Piece Limited Series Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Alarm Ref. 1938P In Honor Of Philippe Stern
A son pays tribute to his father in a limited edition series combining a brand new movement and some of the brand's best craftsmanship.
Deployant
TGIFridays: Tour de France Singapore Criterium: a special report for the cycling fans
This TGIFriday we do a quick round up of events around the Tour de France Singapore Criterium 2023. With photographs and commentary.
SJX Watches
Editorial: Winners at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève
The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) announced its 2023 winners last night in a ceremony in its traditional venue, the theatre in the Fairmont hotel. Compared to 2022, most of the jury members for the year were new faces, including Anish Bhatt of Watchanish and Ben Clymer of Hodinkee. Presided over by author Nick Foulkes, the jury assembled a list of winners that included several surprises. Some watches rightly triumphed in competitive categories, but in others the prizes felt like they were awarded for lack of alternatives. In nearly all categories, however, the winners had merit, with the only exception being the Van Cleef & Arpels Éveil du Cyclamen Automaton that did not win the Mechanical Clock category. The biggest winner of the evening was expected and deserving, going to Audemars Piguet for the Code 11.59 Universelle grand complication. While not the prettiest watch, the Universelle is certainly the most technically impressive watch of the year and deserves the Aiguille d’Or, or “Golden Hand”, the top prize of the event, which was claimed by the brand’s outgoing chief executive, Francois-Henry Bennahmias (pictured above). Not only is the Universelle exceptionally complicated, it approaches several complications in an ingenious manner. Other widely foreseen winners were Petermann Bédat with its 2941 split-seconds in the Chronograph category. Despite my criticism of some aspects of the movement construction, the rattrapante chronograph is undoubte...
Hodinkee
In The Shop: With Rado, Sometimes It Really Is Hip To Be Square – Especially When There’s High-Tech Ceramic Involved.
Several of members of the brand's quirky-meets-minimal True Square family have just landed in the Hodinkee Shop.
![[VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/11/Vortic_Windup.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer
Vortic Watch Company has been a mainstay of the Windup Watch Fair since its earliest days. We had the opportunity to catch up with the CEO of Vortic, R.T. Custer, at the fair. He gives us something we’ve been craving-a truly in-depth explainer of their why and their how-with some amazing examples along the way. Vortic is a unique organization, hell-bent on bringing watchmaking back to the United States, but with a modern and innovative twist. If you’ve ever wondered what Vortic is all about, you now have the definitive info at your fingertips. This video breakdown their process step-by-step and provides before and after glimpse of how they “preserve American history one watch at a time.” If you want to learn even more about the Vortic Watch Company after watching this explainer or would like to start the process of ordering your own custom pocket watch conversion, please visit vorticwatches.com. The post [VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Blimey! The Harrods Tudor Black Bay Is No Longer A London-Only Exclusive
Is this a sign that the green bezel Black Bay is being discontinued?
Worn & Wound
Nomos Issues the Classic Tangente in a Limited Gold Version
In their ongoing “175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte” series, Nomos has finally unveiled a watch that we’re frankly surprised has never existed before, but makes perfect sense right now. The Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik is a precious metal limited edition version of what is indisputably the brand’s most iconic design. In any kind of celebratory context, you’d expect the Tangente to play a lead role, and now, after limited versions of the Orion and Ludwig, the Tangente gets its own luxurious turn. The 175 Years campaign has actually been ongoing since 2020, when a trio of stainless steel Lambdas were introduced. That release was notable because the Lambda had always been available only in solid gold, so a steel version was of particular interest to Nomos collectors who prize the brand’s watches for their great value. This release, in a way, is the inverse of the Lambda limited editions, with a model that is very much associated with stainless steel being introduced in gold. It makes a lot of sense for the Tangente, often cited as the most directly Bauhaus inspired watch in the Nomos catalog, to get this kind of treatment. In steel the straight lugs matched with the circular case appear almost severe, but the whole package has a warmer and more inviting sensibility in rose gold. It still looks delicate and impossibly precise, now just with a notably more luxe feel. The dial for this version is inspired by early watches made in Glashütte, and beyond tying this r...