Deployant
Watching the CEOs: Guido Terreni of Parmigiani discusses the new releases for 2025
We met up with Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier during Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, and got him to discuss this year's novelties.
Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys
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Deployant
Time+Tide
Three new Alpine Eagle pieces prove just how versatile the collection can be
Complication, materials, and drop-dead gorgeous looks.The post Three new Alpine Eagle pieces prove just how versatile the collection can be appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Recap - The Best Sub-5k Watches From Watches & Wonders 2025
We’re coming back down to earth for a more sensible and approachable watchmaking, after the slew of high-end and ultra-complicated watches. Obviously, tourbillon or perpetual calendar watches aren’t for everyone’s budget, but luckily, there are still plenty of very endearing watches for those with a more limited budget. As we set our sights on the […]
Hodinkee
Business News: Rolex Will Raise U.S. Prices In Response To Tariffs
Top Swiss brand to increase prices by an average of 3% beginning May 1 and Omega prices to rise 5%.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 127336 Vs. Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G
It’s Sunday again, and for our showdown this week, we set up a clash between two polarizing watches that inspire no shortage of fervid opinions. First, there is the brand-new Rolex Land-Dweller that the brand unveiled during Watches and Wonders a few weeks back. It goes up against the much-debated Patek Philippe Cubitus, which debuted […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 127336 Vs. Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Nomos Watches Review
In its relatively young existence, Nomos Glashütte has become one of the most popular and successful German watch brands as well as probably the most accessible to newer (and younger) collectors. Nomos’s success - which includes an impressive string of German design awards - has resulted from a combination of sensible pricing, classical Bauhaus design, and creative forays into color, with a bit of mechanical innovation thrown in for good measure. Read on for an in-depth look at today's Nomos Glashütte collection, along with some background on the brand. A Rebirth in Glashütte It was just two months after the Fall of the Berlin Wall, in January 1990, when Roland Schwertner, a photographer and tech-savvy entrepreneur from Düsseldorf, founded Nomos in the East German town of Glashütte, deriving its name from the Ancient Greek god of law. Before World War II and the subsequent Cold War that partitioned Germany into two nations, the town (above), outside of Dresden in the state of Saxony, was a world center of watchmaking. The foundation of Nomos - along with the revival of historical watch brands like A. Lange & Söhne and the evolution of the conglomerate known as Glashütte Original into a luxury watchmaker - spearheaded the rebirth of Glashütte’s horological heritage in the new, reunited Germany. What set Nomos apart from most of the other manufacturers in Glashütte, then as now, is the company’s clean, modernist aesthetics as well as its relatively...
SJX Watches
Auctions: A.-L. Breguet to F.P. Journe at Christie’s Geneva
Rare Watches in Geneva kicks off the spring auction season for Christie’s. Some of the highlights amongst the sale’s 183 lots illustrates the history and evolution of horology, most notably with timepieces by Abraham-Louis Breguet and Francois-Paul Journe. The notable F.P. Journe offerings include a Resonance pre-souscription and a Ruthenium full house, complete with numbered box. The standouts from Breguet include a pocket watch first owned by Pauline Bonaparte, Napoleon’s younger sister, an early striking carriage clock, and an intriguing Type XX precursor literally gone askew. F.P Journe Principally inspired by the work of A.-L. Breguet and Antide Janvier, Francois-Paul Journe’s landmark Chronomètre à Résonance was the first attempt at synchronised, coupled oscillators in a wristwatch. The first numbered 20 examples were reserved for a Breguet-style souscription series – paid in advance by the client – but were not the first made. Image – Christie’s A handful of pre-production watches were made for Basel 1999, followed by the pre-souscription series to which this watch belongs. About 20 watches starting from “21” onwards are pre-souscription, and this is “041/00R”. Notably, one example prior, “040/00R”, sold for a little under CHF1.4 million including fees at Christie’s in 2023, setting a record. Image – Christie’s The Ruthenium collection, built in 99 examples each across five models from 2001 to 2005, includes the Octa Calendrie...
Deployant
New: Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574
Panerai proudly returns to the world’s most important design fair as the Official Timekeeper of Salone del Mobile, thus reinforcing Panerai’s commitment to the world of design and innovation. As a tribute to this prestigious occasion, the Maison presents the Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 making its debut at Panerai’s pop-up at Milano Rho Fiera.
Time+Tide
Bremont jumps on a trend with the Terra Nova Jumping Hour Collection (live pics)
The British brand offers its take on the jumping hour watch trend, with Terra Nova models in bronze and steel.The post Bremont jumps on a trend with the Terra Nova Jumping Hour Collection (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner - This Roos “Meanie” Mini Cooper Will Embarrass Most Sports Cars At Stoplight Sprints
Be very careful when you line up at a traffic light alongside this seemingly harmless Mini Cooper. There’s a very good reason it’s nicknamed the Meanie Cooper, as it packs a serious punch. Weighing about 850 kilos and with 220bhp on tap, this is surely a very feisty and entertaining machine! And for those who […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Ace × Nomos Metro Neomatik Orange - Celebrating Ace Jewelers’ 50th Anniversary
Today, we’re celebrating King’s Day here in the Netherlands. It’s actually our King’s birthday tomorrow, but that’s a Sunday, so the festivities take place today. A lot of people already started partying last night, during King’s Night, and this morning, the flea markets opened up all around the country. But the most important way of […] Visit Introducing: The Ace × Nomos Metro Neomatik Orange - Celebrating Ace Jewelers’ 50th Anniversary to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574
Panerai moves quickly! After a busy Watches and Wonders 2025, there’s already another new release. The Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica was announced with the brand’s official timekeeping role at the Salone del Mobile. This is Milan’s Design Week, and the event is the world’s largest furniture show. Furniture may sound like a funny connection […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Recap - The Best Perpetual Calendar Watches From Watches & Wonders 2025
One of the most classical and complex yet satisfying complications to master is, of course, the Perpetual Calendar. It was Patek Philippe who first put a perpetual calendar pocket watch movement into a wristwatch in 1925, but the history of the Quantième Perpétuel, as it’s called in French and explains why it’s often abbreviated to […]
Worn & Wound
Garrick Takes a Huge Step Forward with the S3 Deadbeat Seconds
One of my favorite stories in independent watchmaking over the last few years has been the evolution of Garrick, the Norwich based brand specializing in meticulously finished, custom made watches. In a relatively short time, the brand has transformed itself into something of an experimental haute horlogerie specialist. The first Garrick watch I can recall writing about was the S4, upon its announcement, which represented the entry point into the brand at around £4995 (in 2021). That watch was, and is, impressive, with a great deal of hand-work and a dizzying level of customization possible. But it would have been tough to predict that just four years later Garrick would be playing at another level entirely, flirting with GPHG honors, and offering bespoke watches that, if made by other, larger brands or more established watchmakers, would likely have price tags sailing into the six figures. The new S3 Deadbeat Seconds release feels like a statement of purpose from Garrick. It is, as the brand puts it, “the pinnacle of Garrick ownership.” The watch itself is effectively a combination of two ideas the brand has been playing with over the last few years, the S3 Mk II (the GPHG finalist from last year featuring a completely openworked dial, focusing on the brand’s finishing capabilities), and the deadbeat seconds complication, as seen in the S2 Deadbeat. The new watch, then, features a deadbeat complication but is given an aesthetic treatment similar to the S3 Mk II, w...
Time+Tide
19 of the best French watch brands keeping the historic craft alive
Being the cradle of watchmaking, France is bound to have some good watchmakers - and it does.The post 19 of the best French watch brands keeping the historic craft alive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Event - Taste of Time - Indie Watch Event in the Netherlands for the Second Time Around
Watches & Wonder is just behind us… and that means a huge number of new watches for us to cover in articles and videos, and for you to discover. And now, we are planning for the second year, an event where you can get some hands-on time with some of these new timepieces if you […]
Hodinkee
Business News: Oris CEO Doubles Down On Value Amid Challenging Markets
Oris is staying true to its mission, delivering quality Swiss-made watches at the best possible price, and calls on the rest of the industry to follow its lead.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Best Grand Seiko Dials
If there’s one thing Grand Seiko is known for, it is its textured dials….and Spring Drive…and Zaratsu polishing... Okay, one of the things Grand Seiko is known for is its textured dials. Often inspired by the beauty of the natural landscape surrounding Grand Seiko's manufacture in Japan, these dials are now often imitated but never truly replicated. We asked our editorial team here at Teddy to choose their favorite GS dial and, unsurprisingly, we got some really stunning picks here. So, without further ado, here are our Editors’ Picks for favorite Grand Seiko dials. Bilal Khan: SBGA011/SBGA211 "Snowflake" The Grand Seiko SBGA211 (originally the SBGA011), aka the Snowflake, is where it all began. Back in 2004, the watchmakers at the dial workshop in the Shinshu watch studio were given a novel task: create a dial that would capture the beauty of the natural surroundings of where the Spring Drive movement was born. The answer was in front of their eyes when they gazed at the snow-capped mountains that commanded their views for half the year. Creating this dial was a challenge but they found inspiration from an old 56GS watch dating back to 1971, which had a texture similar to what the team wanted to achieve. It took some trial and error but they found success through a silver plating method that would go on to birth the now-iconic "Snowflake" dial. It might look somewhat demure and less dramatic than more recent textured dials, but this is the quintessential Grand Sei...
Monochrome
First Look - Eberhard & Co. Presents its New Retro-Inspired Contodat Collection
While Eberhard & Co. is a household name among Italian watch collectors, its rich history and longstanding tradition in producing chronographs have yet to be discovered by a wider audience. Founded by Georges Eberhard in 1887 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the brand’s pocket watch chronographs gave way to its first wristwatch chronograph in 1919. Models that […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik Edition Marine
It’s nice to review a truly affordable watch like the Sternglas Hamburg Automatik every so often. After all, entry-level mechanical timepieces are great for daily wear and can provide a start for new collectors. Sternglas does these watches well and adds thoughtful details, including attractive dials with uncommon lume colors. Today, we’ll look at the […] Visit Hands-On With The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik Edition Marine to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Breguet Turns to Tradition with the Classique Souscription
The opening salvo in Breguet’s 250th anniversary has just been revealed: the Classique Souscription 2025BH. Although typically Breguet in style, the watch is a novel combination of elements, at least by the conventions of Breguet, a traditionally staid brand. Presented in a case of the new design made of a gold alloy of a new formula, it’s a wristwatch inspired by the one-handed souscription pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. The fired enamel dial replicates that of the pocket watch, while inside is the VS00, a calibre that is descended from the movement of the La Tradition. Initial thoughts As storied a brand as it is, Breguet certainly has a lot to live up to for its 250th anniversary. I expect more to come from Breguet in the coming months, but the Classique Souscription is a strong start, though a little pricey. It’s essentially an elaborately executed time-only watch, precisely the sort of watch that is popular now when made by independent watchmakers, but big brands face more scepticism with such timepieces. The VS00 Though it might seem typical Breguet on its face, the Classique Souscription is an unusual proposition; it’s inspired by various elements from across Breguet’s history, some several centuries apart. The dial and movement are inspired by a 19th century pocket watch, while the case comes much later. But everything works well and the whole manages to look like a Breguet. Traditionalists might mourn the departure from familiar elements ...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Bulgari made its debut at Watches & Wonders this year, having previously exhibited outside the fair. It was a fitting occasion to launch the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the thinnest tourbillon watch ever at just 1.85 mm thick. Housed in the brand’s signature matte grey titanium case and limited to just 20 pieces, the Ultra Tourbillon is paired with an equally thin and silky titanium bracelet. Bulgari is deeply invested in its leadership in ultra-thin watchmaking, and the Ultra Tourbillon shows the brand is willing to do whatever it takes to own as many records in this field as possible. Initial thoughts Despite its record-breaking slimness, there was surprisingly little buzz about the Ultra at Watches & Wonders. This may be due to record fatigue, since the previous record was set just last year by the Piaget AUC Tourbillon. It could also be due to the diminishing returns of these types of records, which are now being broken by almost imperceptible margins. On its exterior, the Ultra Tourbillon is quite similar the 1.7 mm-thick Octo Finissimo Ultra introduced last year. It features a 40 mm case made from a combination of titanium and tungsten carbide, and is impressively open-worked, revealing just about every wheel and pinion on the dial side of the watch. But this watch is all about the headline figure of its 1.85 mm thickness, which endows the Ultra Tourbillon with a delicate, almost weightless feel. The case in profile. Image – Bulgari Like all ultra-thin recor...
Worn & Wound
A Sneak Peek at the Watches of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025
The next stop in our ongoing celebration of 10 years of Windup, the Windup Watch Fair San Francisco, is now right around the corner and if you’re like us, you’ve only got one thing on your mind: what watches am I going to see? Whether you are planning to stop at specific brands on your tour of the Fort Mason venue, or your plan is to wander through the nearly 90 different watch and EDC brands, today we’re highlighting a selection of standout projects from our Lead Sponsors. As always, Windup is free and open to the public, thanks in large part to these brands who continue to support the enthusiast community. You can see all of these brands and more at the 2025 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco: Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion, 2 Marina Blvd, San Francisco Friday, May 2: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, May 3: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, May 4: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public You can see every sponsor on the Windup Watch Fair website. While you’re on the site, be sure to sign up for Windup updates to make sure you continue to get the latest info in advance of and throughout the Windup weekend. Here’s that sneak peek at the watches of our 2025 Lead Sponsors in San Francisco! anOrdain anOrdain is proud to celebrate the crafts of watchmaking and fired arts by introducing the Model 2 Porcelain. The Model 2 offers a true porcelain dial that was developed in-house after years of research aided by master potters in Stoke-on-Trent, England. Each dial is lovingly handcrafted by p...
Teddy Baldassarre
The 19 Thinnest Watches in the World in 2026
There have always been thin watches, and always watchmakers who have dedicated their craft to reduce the essentials of timekeeping, as well as other additional complications, into as slimmed down and wearable a package as humanly (and horologically) possible. Lately, however, as 21st century technological developments impact watchmaking as they have every other industry, it seems there are more exceptionally thin watches than ever before -some of them aimed at a customer simply seeking an elegantly understated and luxuriously lightweight timepiece for regular wear, others almost defiantly unobtainable to all but a few, but intended to boldly shatter records for both thinness and complexity. We offer some of both types in our roundup of ultra-thin watches below (which we're defining as 10mm thick or under, based on average watch sizes), in ascending order of case thickness, starting from the top with the current category record holders. Under 2mm Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari (1.75mm) In the world of high horology, Richard Mille has been pushing the envelope in the areas of materials, technologies, and (let’s face it) prices for quite some time. In 2022, the brand probably best known for making the watch that tennis champ Rafael Nadal wears to play in Grand Slams entered a new partnership with Ferrari, and the result was, to many watch enthusiasts’ surprise, the current record-holder for world’s thinnest watch. The RM UP-01 Ferrari is an almost unimaginable 1.7...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - A Celebratory Model For The Maison's 250th Anniversary (Live Pics)
Single-handed and enamel-dialed, the Souscription 2025 pays respectful homage to Abraham-Louis Breguet's most accessible masterpiece.
Teddy Baldassarre
Graduation Watches: The Gift Guide For Every Budget
Graduation season is just around the corner, and, given the title of this article, I’m pretty sure you can already tell where I’m going with this. Whether you yourself are about to don a cap and gown, or you know a graduate who’s preparing to celebrate the end of one chapter and the beginning of a new one, a watch makes a great gift to mark a transition from one phase of life into the next. It’s a tale as old as time (or, at least, as old as watches). So, to give you some graduation gifting inspiration - or, in case you need to provide some loved ones with a little guidance on the graduation gift you might want - I’ve rounded up various watches at (I hope) every price point with grads in mind. Some key elements I’ve looked for in making this list are practicality, versatility, and styles of watches that could make a one-and-done collection in themselves for those who are new to watches, or those beginning a collection. And if you aren’t celebrating graduation season yourself, but are in need of a nudge to celebrate some other key moment in your life - well, you’re welcome here, too. Under $500 Casio Vintage ABL100WE-1AVT Price: $79.95 Case: 37.9mm. Water Resistant: Yes. Movement: Quartz battery Going by ascending order on price feels like the most obvious way to order this guide, so I will begin with a watch not just under $500, but under $100. For those who are possibly just dipping their toes into the idea of wearing a watch regularly (this is t...
Fratello
Introducing: The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - Initiating The Brand’s 250th-Anniversary Celebrations
Abraham-Louis Breguet was probably the first watchmaker to launch a watch with the help of a Kickstarter campaign. Okay, well, not exactly, but in 1797, he made his 61mm Souscription pocket watch available for order with a 25% down payment. That way, the relatively simple watch with only one hand and a white enamel dial […] Visit Introducing: The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - Initiating The Brand’s 250th-Anniversary Celebrations to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Is 2025 The Year Of The Dress Watch?
It’s 2025, and dress watches are in! But that doesn’t mean you have to dust off your tuxedo. In fact, it’s quite the opposite: the dress watch’s link to formal attire has never been less relevant than it is today. Dress watches - both in the stricter definition and in adjacent style - are gaining […] Visit Fratello Talks: Is 2025 The Year Of The Dress Watch? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Breguet Celebrates 250 Years with a Tribute to a Watch from 1797 (w/ Hands-On Photos)
If you’re into watches, then you’re into Abraham-Louis Breguet. One of the founders of modern horology, his innovations set the course of the industry and remain relevant. Whether that’s in terms of his inventions like the tourbillon, the gong-spring, his signature overcoil, self-winding, or shock protection, to name but a few, or in marketing and selling his timepieces, his contributions set many standards. Of these listed, however, marketing and selling seem the least interesting, and yet, Breguet’s “Souscription” model and the watches created as a result, have served as inspiration for several of the modern Breguet brand’s most iconic timepieces. In 2005, the brand launched the Tradition line, bringing escapements to the dial of a wristwatch, and now, the Classique Souscription 2025, celebrating the company’s 250th anniversary. The Souscription concept is one we are all very familiar with, if a slightly different take that suited the times. Upon ordering one of Breguet’s Souscription pieces, a quarter of the total price was paid to cover the parts. A deposit, if you will. The watch was made, and the remaining three-quarters were sent to acquire it. Sounds familiar, though typically we don’t fund the making of individual watches (though sometimes we do). A highly successful campaign that was advertised via a pamphlet, another innovation, it is said that around 700 watches were produced using this model. The concept wasn’t just a method of payment, b...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex x Bespoke Post Field Watch: A Retro Mil-Spec Revival for Just $150
If you're like me and you can never get enough of the whole vintage military watch thing, then Timex’s latest collaboration with Bespoke Post might be right up your alley. Based on a 1970s gem from their Viscount collection, this throwback is wrapped up in a 36mm steel case that’s just the right size for something that looks rugged without feeling cumbersome.