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Vulcain Cricket “Style Moderne” for Revolution & The Rake with Guillaume Laidet Revolution
Vulcain Cricket “Style Moderne” May 18, 2023

Vulcain Cricket “Style Moderne” for Revolution & The Rake with Guillaume Laidet

Wei sits down with Guillaume Laidet of Vulcain to discuss the new Vulcain Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ limited edition for Revolution & The Rake. The Vulcain Cricket dates back to 1947 when it was introduced as the world’s first mechanical alarm watch, powered by the now-legendary caliber 120. The alarm worked with a hammer that struck […]

Highlights: “The Ultimate Collection” at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts We round May 18, 2023

Highlights: “The Ultimate Collection” at Christie’s Hong Kong

Having concluded its Geneva sales that included an F.P. Journe thematic auction, Christie’s will soon open its spring sale season in Hong Kong. The auctioneer’s watch offerings include an impressive line-up of watches assembled over two decades by an Asian collector. Christened The Ultimate Collection, the selection is composed of 107 timepieces – almost all modern – ranging from Rolex to F.P. Journe. Although the watches are diverse, the collector’s keen eye can be discerned. The catalogue includes classic must-haves like various examples of the Rolex Daytona and GMT-Master II, but also rare and special watches from F.P. Journe as well as possibly-unique Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts. We round up nine notable picks from the sale, including the headline lots from F.P. Journe – a Chronomètre à Résonance “RTA” with a mother-of-pearl dial and the Tourbillon Souverain Coeur de Rubis. The “Coeur de Rubis” dial Other highlights including a Patek Philippe Dome Clock that was originally owned by Jean-Claude Biver of Hublot and Blancpain fame, along with uncommon variants of the landmark Lange 1, including the Lange 1A and ref. 101.027X. The Ultimate Collection takes place on May 26 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) – the catalogue is available here. Lot 2537 – F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain Anniversaire “Hong Kong”  In 2016, F.P. Journe marked the 10th anniversary of its first ever boutique (which was in Tokyo) with the ...

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse: Its Ingenious Gearing is Simply Magical - Reprise Quill & Pad
Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse May 18, 2023

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse: Its Ingenious Gearing is Simply Magical - Reprise

The Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse appears magical thanks to the apparent lack of any connection to the case while putting most of the mechanics on full display. It may be a time-only watch with no complications or tourbillons, but it is a most impressive accomplishment. Joshua Munchow explains the magic trick.

Raketa Introduces Avant-Garde “The Horophile” SJX Watches
Raketa May 18, 2023

Raketa Introduces Avant-Garde “The Horophile”

A Soviet-era watchmaker, Raketa has been rejuvenated by investors and a team advised by Manuel Emch, the former chief executive of Romain Jerome. The brand has brought back designs from its archives, while also producing new models inspired by its past. Falling squarely into the latter category, the Avant-Garde “The Horophile” takes it cues from Communist art while the palette comes courtesy of Amr Sindi, the Swiss-based watch influencer known as The Horophile. Initial thoughts In a relatively short time Raketa has managed to create a distinctive identity with its unique aesthetic. Precisely because of their Soviet-era style, many of the brand’s watches might seem drab. The new Avant-Garde, in contrast, stands out with its bright colours. It will certainly appeal to someone who appreciates the Raketa design but wants something more lively. Price-wise the Horophile edition is no different from the standard model. At €1,650 before taxes, the watch is reasonably priced, although Raketa movements generally could do with a bit more window dressing, even at the price. The purple rotor in the Horophile edition goes some way in improving the view from the back. Bolshevik art The dial of the Avant-Garde is inspired by Beat the Whites with the Red Wedge, one of the best-known works by artist El Lissitzky, one of the proponents of the Russian avant-garde movement that flourished from the late 19th- t0 early-20th centuries. A 1919 propaganda poster, the work shows a red wedge ...

Opinion: Why Every Parent Needs a Tool Watch Worn & Wound
Citizen or something similar readily May 17, 2023

Opinion: Why Every Parent Needs a Tool Watch

Last week my son was pretending to be a wolf in the kitchen (as four-year-olds do). Inevitably, he face-planted on the tile floor and suffered a bloody snout. As I scooped up my wounded canine, blood poured down my arm, shoulder to hand.  I wear a dive watch most days, and this day was no exception. After Googling “How to stop a bloody nose,” I rotated the count-up bezel and prepared to pinch both nostrils shut for 10 minutes. The usually crisp bezel action felt… sticky. I looked down to realize bodily fluids had covered my watch, collecting on every textured surface: the depressed markers on the modified bezel, the crown ridges, and between bracelet links.  With only one free arm, I did not dare risk opening the nasal floodgates to remove my watch. After the minute hand safely crossed the stained 10-minute marker, I gave my watch a quick bath in the sink. It thanked me for the brief excitement and continued its primary function of keeping time until the next time it would be called to action, likely in the near future. After all, kids are gross. My watches are accustomed to poorly aimed sneezes and spilled glasses of milk. PSA: never buy a used watch from me. Prior to 2020, I wore dress watches to a shared office. Usually a time-only Citizen or something similar readily available at the local mall. As a bearded guy with mop of unruly hair, a shiny 38mm dress watch was my lazy attempt to look the part. This self-imposed pressure dissipated with the sudden shift to...

Omega Debuts New Models of the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer SJX Watches
Frederique Constant or Montblanc May 17, 2023

Omega Debuts New Models of the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer

Omega expands the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer collection with one in steel and an all-new model in titanium. Dressed in restrained colours of greys or greens with gilded accents, the new pair combines modern styling with a traditional, Cottier-style world time. Initial thoughts Though superficially similar to earlier versions of the Aqua Terra travel watch, a close examination reveals notable differences between the new models and their predecessors.  The titanium model is executed in shades of grey and black, save for a gilded, relief world map, giving it a striking appearance that elevates the world time concept. In contrast, the map motif feels more integrated into the design on the steel models, allowing the map to recede into the background resulting in a more low-key appearance..  The new models are priced slightly higher than their predecessors, with the steel on strap starting at US$10,200 and about 10% more for the titanium. Compared against the competition, the Aqua Terra Worldtimer is one of the few world time watches at that price point – most are either pricer or less expensive – and its quality certainly justifies its price premium over comparable watches from Frederique Constant or Montblanc for instance. Eye-catching colourways Omega’s latest Aqua Terra Worldtimers continue the brand’s sporty reinterpretation of the classic complication invented by Louis Cottier. The dial features a relief map of the Earth as seen from the North Pole, ringed b...

A Different Kind of Coffee Watch: Hublot and Nespresso Team Up for a Big Bang Unico that is All About Recycled Materials Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer s Carrera from May 16, 2023

A Different Kind of Coffee Watch: Hublot and Nespresso Team Up for a Big Bang Unico that is All About Recycled Materials

In an early contender for what has to be in the running for the most unexpected and head spinning collaborative watches of the year, Hublot has partnered with Nespresso, the Swiss coffee company, on a big green chronograph made in part from recycled aluminum coffee capsules. It’s an effort by both brands to highlight their sustainability efforts, and an opportunity for Hublot flex some of their materials muscle. The end result is undeniably Hublot in its appearance, and kind of an under the radar coffee watch, which is more than can be said about LVMH stablemate TAG Heuer’s Carrera from a few years ago, with a dial made from actual coffee grounds. I actually quite like that coffee Carrera, and enjoy taking any opportunity available to remind people that it’s a real watch that actually exists.  Anyway, back to Hublot, and the Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin. To fully grasp this watch, you first need to have an understanding of Nespresso’s core product, which is a single serving coffee platform built around little aluminum capsules (containing the coffee) that get popped into a Nespresso machine, and at the touch of a button you get a perfectly brewed cup of coffee, espresso, or a selection of other hot and cold beverages. Nespresso, of course, isn’t the only game in town when it comes to this sort of single serving coffee machine, but one thing that sets them apart from some of their competition is a focus on the materials used for those capsules. The aluminum po...

New Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ : アズキ is your last chance to purchase the model - but it is not limited! Time+Tide
May 16, 2023

New Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ : アズキ is your last chance to purchase the model - but it is not limited!

The Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier “Azuki” will be the last Calendrier I produced As an Anniversary model the watch is not a limited edition, it is time limited with all successful orders honoured The first Kurono dial to be made of phosphor-bronze, the case’s water-resistance is raised to 50m Cards on the table, I have … ContinuedThe post New Kurono 2023 Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ : アズキ is your last chance to purchase the model – but it is not limited! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hawaii’s Imperial Watch Co. Announces a Trio of New Variants in their Royalguard 200 Collection Worn & Wound
May 16, 2023

Hawaii’s Imperial Watch Co. Announces a Trio of New Variants in their Royalguard 200 Collection

Introducing the Hawaii based Imperial Watch Co. Royalguard 200, initially unveiled in October 2022. And when we say “unveiled,” we mean it was an instant sell-out hit, with every piece snatched up before it even had a chance to grace the hypothetical shelves. So it’s no surprise that Imperial is back, this time offering more of what made the Royalguard a fast success. The Royalguard’s reissue is now available in three limited edition colorways, featuring both date and no-date options. Imperial has also revived the original blue bezel variant, presenting it in a limited run of just 30 pieces with a date function. While the watch itself remains largely unchanged from its previous iteration, the new colorways add some variety, presenting new options to collectors who may have missed out on the Royalguard’s first release. Let’s dive into the new colors (pun always intended). First up is the Tropical, which captures the rusty brown and red tones reminiscent of a well-aged tropical bezel. Then we have the Ghosted Green, a soft, muted shade of green that changes from light green to a deep emerald depending on the light.  And of course, there’s the Classic Black, which exudes a vintage, almost gray faded aesthetic. The original blue bezel variant follows this same trend, with its muted, faded, and aged appearance. The Royalguard draws considerable inspiration from the iconic Eberhard Scafograf 200, notably in its glossy black dial that dances with the light. The ove...

Seiko 5 Sports Adds a Pair of Limited Editions Peanuts Themed Watches to the Collection to Celebrate their Anniversary Worn & Wound
Omega released May 15, 2023

Seiko 5 Sports Adds a Pair of Limited Editions Peanuts Themed Watches to the Collection to Celebrate their Anniversary

If you continue to miss out on the ultra popular and still incredibly difficult to track down Silver Snoopy Speedmaster that Omega released in 2020 to an incredible level of hysteria, Seiko has what will certainly be a more affordable and (probably) easier to find pair of limited editions coming that might scratch that Snoopy itch. The latest Seiko 5 Sports limited editions are both Snoopy themed, and capture a lot of the charm from the original comics in subtle ways.  The new watches use the smaller Seiko 5 Sports platforms, the 38mm case size with a dive bezel, and the 36mm field watch style case without a bezel. Each has a white dial with graphics pulled right from the comic. The larger dive style watch has an image of Snoopy with a surfboard (with the words “Seiko 5 Sports” printed on in).The smaller watch features Snoopy and Woodstock negotiating a parachute.  These watches are being released as part of this year’s 55th anniversary celebration of the Seiko 5 Sports imprint. Accordingly, the artwork for the new watches was pulled from Peanuts comics dating to 1968, Seiko 5 Sports’ first year. That extends to the casebacks as well, which both feature larger images from the comics along with a “Limited Edition” designation. My personal favorite tribute to the original comics in these watches though is the use of the ‘Schulz’ font for the numerals on each piece. Along with the artwork, it makes these watches feel more grounded in their original comic str...

My favourite Micro Mondays from the last 12 months Time+Tide
Ming harder May 15, 2023

My favourite Micro Mondays from the last 12 months

Shining a light on some lesser-known brands is one of my favourite things to do here at Time+Tide, and the weekly Micro Mondays segment helps to keep me informed on new and exciting releases just as much as it does for you. With the onslaught of Kickstarter releases piling in, it’s becoming harder and harder … ContinuedThe post My favourite Micro Mondays from the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Humble Second: We Can Now Measure It To Incredible Precision, It’s Continually Fluctuating, It’s Getting Longer, And It’s Stuck In 1957. All Because Of The Moon - Reprise Quill & Pad
May 13, 2023

The Humble Second: We Can Now Measure It To Incredible Precision, It’s Continually Fluctuating, It’s Getting Longer, And It’s Stuck In 1957. All Because Of The Moon - Reprise

There are two ways to define a day: astronomically by measuring the time between midday to midday and by using a manmade clock. The difference between them is that the length of the former fluctuates while the latter remains fixed. As Ian Skellern explains, the same is true for the humble second.

The new Accutron Astronaut and Bulova Lunar Pilot models celebrate their place in the space race Time+Tide
Accutron Astronaut May 13, 2023

The new Accutron Astronaut and Bulova Lunar Pilot models celebrate their place in the space race

Why do watch fans love a good historical reissue? I can think of two reasons. First off, horological history has such a deep trove of interesting, important references to draw from, with a ton of classic models and innovative designs waiting to be discovered by new generations of fans. Secondly, they’re cool as hell, and … ContinuedThe post The new Accutron Astronaut and Bulova Lunar Pilot models celebrate their place in the space race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Just One More Watch YouTuber Jody Musgrove to embark on ‘Shitbox Rally’ to raise money for the Cancer Council Time+Tide
May 12, 2023

Just One More Watch YouTuber Jody Musgrove to embark on ‘Shitbox Rally’ to raise money for the Cancer Council

Just One More Watch YouTuber Jody Musgrove is about to embark on the journey of a lifetime, all in the name of cancer research. Starting tomorrow, he and channel regular Mr X will set off on the ‘Shitbox Rally’ – a 3,400km, 7-day charity car rally from Newcastle to Townsville that will raise money for … ContinuedThe post Just One More Watch YouTuber Jody Musgrove to embark on ‘Shitbox Rally’ to raise money for the Cancer Council appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

25 White-Dial Watches Suitable for Every Budget and Style Teddy Baldassarre
May 12, 2023

25 White-Dial Watches Suitable for Every Budget and Style

In a watch world increasingly populated by bolder and more eye-popping colorways, watches with white dials remain, for many, the epitome of elegance and understated style. White dials, in the estimation we used to compile the following list, are distinct from the more commonly seen “silvered” or “silver” dials, some of them with textures that enhance their three-dimensional appeal or matte finishes that impart to them an appealing sense of solidity. Scroll down to discover 25 of our favorite white-dial watches - as always, covering a wide array of price categories, and styles from dress to diver to pilot to GMT (no chronographs however; white “panda” dials with black subdials is a separate list).  Mondaine Classics Swiss Railway Watch   Price: $275, Case Size: 36 mm, Lug Width: 18 mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 30 m, Movement: Quartz Ronda 513 Founded in 1951 in Solothurn, Switzerland, Mondaine is a family-owned watch manufacturer that exudes pride in its essential Swissness (as evidenced by its logo, which incorporates the national flag. Mondaine’s signature product is also distinctly Swiss in its inspiration: the simply named Classics collection, the first of which was launched in 1986, derives its clean, ultra-legible, Bauhaus-flavored aesthetic from Switzerland’s distinctive (and notoriously accurate) railroad clocks. Based on the enduring design by Hans Hilfiker for the Federal Swiss Railways clock in 1944, the watch captures minimalism in...

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch May 12, 2023

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon”

The Geneva spring auction season kicks off soon and as expected, most of the weekend’s highlights are the usual timepieces from establishment brands and independent watchmakers, including one that is a mix of both, the Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch made by Philippe Dufour. But one of the season’s most intriguing lot is altogether different – the Patek Philippe Ref. 1252 “Chameleon” that’ll go under the hammer at Antiquorum. Both intriguing and quirky, the ref. 1252 “Chameleon” is essentially a sculptural bracelet that happens to have a small, manual-wind movement installed. While such bracelet wristwatches are common for jewellers like Cartier and Bulgari, the “Chameleon” is decidedly unconventional for Patek Philippe. Made in the late 1940s, this example of the “Chameleon” is only the second one known. The first example resides in the Patek Philippe Museum as inventory no. P-107. The “Chameleon” is perhaps more object than timekeeper. It has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000 – arguably not so much for a sculptural Patek Philippe of which only two are known, or a pricey, oddball ladies’ watch. But it is unquestionably interesting and perhaps one of the most intriguing objects on the block this weekend. The “Chameleon” is lot 450 and has an estimate of CHF50,000-100,000. Its archive extract has been ordered and is pending according to Antiquorum. For more, visit Antiquorum.com.  

You paid how much?? Five watches that look cheaper than they are Time+Tide
May 12, 2023

You paid how much?? Five watches that look cheaper than they are

In modern times, the words “stealth wealth” get thrown around a lot. Usually reserved for sophisticated watches often made of white metals like platinum, the idea is that your watch only hints at its true value. On the completely opposite end of the spectrum, there are those cheap watches that do everything they can to … ContinuedThe post You paid how much?? Five watches that look cheaper than they are appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Monochrome and Habring² team up for charity with the unique Doppel 38 Salmon Sector Time+Tide
May 12, 2023

Monochrome and Habring² team up for charity with the unique Doppel 38 Salmon Sector

Maria and Richard Habring of Habring² have long been revered as underappreciated makers of very fine timepieces, with the Austrian outfit a long-time enthusiast favourite. The topic of today’s story is their latest take on the new Habring² Doppel 38, made alongside previous collaborators Monochrome Watches, a Netherlands-based online watch magazine, run by watch nerd … ContinuedThe post Monochrome and Habring² team up for charity with the unique Doppel 38 Salmon Sector appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.