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Time+Tide
Hamilton have introduced two new pink versions of the 36mm Jazzmaster Open Heart and the Ardmore Quartz. The pink shade is light and sophisticated, suiting the different styles of watch in different ways. Pink is looking like a contender for dial colour of the year. It’s seeming as though pink may wind up as the … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Floral Pink Capsule blossoms into 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Welcome to A Week In Watches, episode 45! This week, we were inundated with collaboration watches, and they are as diverse as they are interesting. From a $110 Timex, to a $26,000 Czapek, there’s a little something for everyone here. The most humble release of the week comes from Timex and our friends at Huckberry, who brought back a classic form the ’90s, the Ironman Flix watch. It’s a jolt of energy next to today’s modern ultra smart devices, and it’s a perfect workout companion even without all the bells & whistles of something like an Apple Watch. Another big theme this week (and recent years, come to think of it) is big colors and dial textures. We’ve got blue wave dials, lava red dials, and rose engine turned dials all making their way into a trio of releases from Czapek, Straum, and Atelier Wen, and their respective collab partners. Finally, we say congratulations to our friends at Norqain for hitting their 5 year anniversary, who celebrated with a selection of 5 new watches. We take a closer look at their version of an openworked dial, and wish them continued success in their journey. Here’s hoping we get more lume dials sometime soon. Next weekend, we’ll be coming at you from the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair, and if you’re in the Bay Area, we hope to see you there. For more details on this year’s event, head over to windupwatchfair.com and get a look at the schedule for each of the days, as well as the extensive list of brands you can look f...
Worn & Wound
Horage is a bit of an oddity in the watch world. Most brands build for years and years to be able to produce even a simple three-hand movement, should they even choose to go that route, and they tend to demand a high price. Horage has been working on theirs since its inception and has maintained a goal of industrialization over high prices starting with the K1, which had a silicon escapement and a modular complication system back at launch. Though it didn’t get the attention it deserved initially, it did inevitably ascend the horology ranks and prove its viability, as the K1 serves as the basis of Bremont’s ENG300 calibers. Eventually, Horage added the micro-rotor wound K2, featured in the Supersede. Another rarity, in addition to being thin, as micro-rotors tend to be, the K2 also featured modular design allowing for complications without increasing the base movement’s thickness by much, as well as a silicon escapement, 72-hour power reserve, and within chronometer accuracy. Another movement that would be impressive coming from a large luxury group, let alone an independent brand like Horage. While neither are small feats, today we’re looking at a watch with a movement that is perhaps even more impressive. The Lensman 1 features the K-TOU caliber, which is Horage’s in-house, Swiss-made tourbillon. Yes, you read that right. And the watch, despite featuring such a rare and exotic complication, comes in at under $10k. There’s a lot more to the watch as well, whic...
Time+Tide
Seiko’s popular 5 Sports line grows with 4 versions in a new 38mm case size Four dial colours are available from launch, including a still-trendy teal variant The drop from 42.5mm to 38mm makes the SKX-style case friendlier to a wider range of wrists There was an audible gasp from watch nerds everywhere when Seiko … ContinuedThe post Seiko grows the SKX-style 5 Sports lineup by shrinking the case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With Zach’s regularly scheduled programming interrupted by a Japan trip with Grand Seiko, I thought I’d wind you down for this week. With releases still coming in strong even after the biggest watch fair of the year wrapped up, we’ve got two releases from opposing ends of the horological spectrum. The rest is as you’d … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Naoya Hida teases new releases, Vulcain goes salmon fishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Ineichen Auctioneers are renowned for promoting some of the most exciting watch auctions in the last few decades, and the upcoming Independents Auction is shaping up to shock and surprise. The focus hasn’t just been put on independent watchmakers, but specifically some of their rarest and even unique pieces that will command a lot of … ContinuedThe post T+T’s favourites from the upcoming Independents Ineichen Auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
When you go to Watches & Wonders, you hope to have an experience like the one Zach Weiss and I did with De Bethune. The Geneva based brand was actually not exhibiting at the show, but had space in the Beau Rivage hotel, right on the lake, along with a dozen or so other independent brands, all taking good advantage of the watch world absolutely descending on the city for an entire week. I have long been an admirer of De Bethune, but always from afar. They are not the easiest indie to get your arms around, both literally and figuratively. The watches are very rare and hyper specific in their design language, and for a long time I had the sense that they might appeal to exactly the 200 or so people per year that are able to obtain a new piece, no more no less. But then the last three years happened, and every independent brand took off like a rocket ship, and since De Bethune watches kind of look like rocket ships to begin with, their rise was perhaps even steeper. The DB Eight Monopusher We were there, ostensibly, to see two watches. The brand’s latest novelties both happen to be more classically styled than the avant-garde pieces they’ve become known for. The DB Eight monopusher chronograph is about as classic as it gets. The case design, with those flared lugs, is based on the DB1, the very first De Bethune, also a chronograph. This one, though, has a brand new caliber and is fashioned from grade 5 titanium as opposed to solid gold. While the aesthetic of the watch is ...
Worn & Wound
Hublot and tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi are back again for another entry in the Sang Bleu collection, a series of watches named for Plescia-Buchi’s tattoo studios located in Los Angeles, Zurich, and London. The Sang Bleu watches always incorporate complex geometry and the watch design equivalent of the intricate line work that is core to Plesia-Buchi’s design language. These design elements translate remarkably well to a watch, if you’re at all inclined toward the abstract, at least. Up until now, the Big Bang has been Plesia-Buchi’s preferred canvas, but that changes here with a selection of watches using the barrel shaped Spirit of Big Bang as a starting point. As with previous Sang Bleu watches, the new editions seen here are marked by a series of facets throughout the case that create a compelling, sculpted look. The overlapping geometric shapes have a grid-like consistency and at some angles appear to take on the appearance of armor. Hublot has given Plescia-Buchi a great deal of freedom to work outside the normal constraints of the Spirit of Big Bang case shape. While that case is the clear inspiration for these watches and certainly falls under its larger umbrella, the lines of the case have been reworked to a certain extent, and the impression it gives from the front is quite a bit different in these Sang Bleu watches. The dial is sapphire and provides a view to the skeletonized chronograph movement underneath it. Time is read by rotating disc “...
Worn & Wound
If you’ve been following the trajectory of H. Moser over the last few years, you know how important the Streamliner platform is to them. It’s one of very few entrants into the competitive integrated bracelet sports watch landscape that feels truly original, taking inspiration not from earlier integrated bracelet sports watches, but from the streamline moderne design philosophy, an offshoot of sorts of the Art Deco movement that gave us iconic building, train, and car designs, and eventually seeped into many other aspects of our everyday lives. The flowing lines of the Streamliner’s case and bracelet are often called “organic” for the way they evoke something that’s about to come to life, especially as it’s draped over your wrist, but one look at the aerodynamic locomotive designs of the 1930s tells you all you need to know about where the design inspiration for the watch really comes from. In any case, the Streamliner has struck a chord with watch lovers, and if we’re to believe forum chatter and anecdotes from collectors, it’s one of the tougher watches to get your hands on in the world of independent sports watches. So the release of any new Streamliner is a bit of an event, and the latest example begins a new chapter, replacing the green fumé Center Seconds model (the purest and least complicated version of the Streamliner) with a dial that the brand calls “smoked salmon,” and features a griffé finish that is typically reserved for Moser limite...
Time+Tide
Since CODE41 released their X41 AeroCarbon back in 2020, I have viewed the independent brand as a champion for watch collectors. Since their foundation in 2016, they have pushed the boundaries of affordability by offering highly technical watches for a fraction of the big-name prices. With an emphasis on clear, honest communication about component cost … ContinuedThe post CODE41 take the next step with the T360 Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
One of the most compelling new releases at Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was the Rolex Perpetual 1908, brand’s most serious take on the dress watch in decades. Elegantly sized and surprisingly thin, the 1908 is equipped with the all-new, automatic cal. 7140. Perhaps the most significant debut from Rolex in recent years, the 1908 replaces the ill-fated Cellini. Named after the year Rolex was founded by Hans Wilsdorf, the 1908 is significant not so much for what it is – a dress watch with exceptional quality of manufacture – but simply because it is the first new collection of watches from Rolex in decades. Importantly, the 1908 is the first model in the new Perpetual collection, which implies that Rolex will be introducing more watches like this in time to come. Initial thoughts In my view, the Cellini collection always felt underdeveloped. The models introduced in 2017 had potential, but they shared too much in common with their sportier siblings, both in terms of movements and dimensions, leaving them feeling too clunky to be an alternative to the entry-level dress watches from traditional haute horlogerie brands. The 1908, on the other hand, feels like a proper effort. Compared to the outgoing Cellini models, almost every detail has been tangibly upgraded to some degree. In the hand, the 1908 feels like a Rolex – the tactile feel of quality is quickly apparent. Despite being fairly svelte at 9.5 mm high, the case of the 1908 has the solidity of an Oyster case – th...
Worn & Wound
As watch enthusiasts, we understand the desire to change up the look of our timepieces without breaking the bank. Thankfully, the market for third party straps and bracelets has exploded in recent years, and quick release options have made swapping them out a breeze. But sometimes, a new set of shoes just isn’t enough. Still, the options for a more dramatic swap have been somewhat limited until recently. Brands like Formex offer an inventive quick bezel swap system and Hegid offers an interchangeable case system. Still these options leave a gap at a more attainable budget. Enter Liberum, an Italian microbrand with a new modular watch system that’s both fun-focused and budget-friendly, with a project that is ending soon on Kickstarter. The watch features a modular design consisting of five different colored outer cases, one or two inner cases (depending on the package you select), and five integrated polyurethane rubber straps. These pieces seamlessly integrate with each other, allowing you to swap and combine them for 25 different color combinations. While some color combinations may work better than others, the Liberum watch lets you switch and swap until your heart’s content. Its genius lies in its simplicity: the durable TPE outer watch cases integrate seamlessly over a stainless steel inner case encapsulating the dial and movement in a sapphire sandwich, making the swap incredibly easy. To change the case and strap, all you need to do is remove the quick-releas...
Worn & Wound
Fratello announced their latest limited edition last week, a collaboration with Straum, a Norwegian brand on the rise who made some noise a few years ago with the Opphav, a stainless steel integrated bracelet sports watch made for an affordable price with a dynamic textured dial. The new collaborative watch with Fratello is notable in that it appears to be a true collaboration, with Straum making rather significant changes to their design at Fratello’s request. This is somewhat rare in the world of collaborative watches, and in this case has resulted in a rather compelling edition with a fiery red dial and some key refinements made from the brand’s earlier watch. The Fratello x Straum Jan Mayen Limited Edition is named for a Norwegian island that the brand has tapped for inspiration when it comes to the striking red dial. Fratello describes it as “lava red” fumé, appropriate given Jan Mayen is home to the Beerenberg volcano. Ridges emanating from the dial’s center replicate flowing lava, and the effect is achieved via a stamping process followed by several steps of painting and surface finishing treatments. The dial text is minimal, just the brand’s logo and wordmark at 12:00, allowing the unique texture to truly take a starring role. There are several small details beyond the new dial design that differentiate the new LE from Straum’s earlier Opphav. First, the case size has been slightly reduced, from just shy of 41mm to 39mm. At the same time, the bezel...
Worn & Wound
The latest watch in Isotope’s Hydrium dive watch series is a limited edition created in partnership with freediver Johanna Nordblad. Like all of the Hydrium limited editions, this one tells a very specific story through its design, particularly in its use of color, but this release feels a little different as it’s so closely tied to Nordblad herself. It also represents a new chapter in the Isotope line, and has been given the “Pro” moniker for the first time ever. The Hydrium Pro Nordblad Limited Edition begins with the story of Johanna Nordblad. Nordblad took up scuba diving in her native Finland in 1997, and eventually transitioned to freediving, the sport that would become her true calling. She had a successful competitive freediving career for over a decade, breaking records in the process, but suffered a severe leg injury in 2010 that made diving impossible. She was on crutches for nearly a year, and suffered intense pain that was only alleviated by ice water treatment. It was during this time that Nordblad became interested in combining her love of freediving with cold water, and began practicing under ice. She has since accomplished several incredible diving feats in cold water situations, including swimming 103 meters under ice without fins and wearing only a bathing suit. This achievement set a record at the time, and was chronicled by Netflix in Hold Your Breath: The Ice Dive, an award winning documentary on Nordblad’s diving pursuits. The new Hydri...
Hodinkee
This big hunk of watch now comes in mint green and a very swoony blue green.
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Time+Tide
Although the 2020s is a young decade so far, we’ve already been treated to a wealth of dial enrichment from textures, colours, and even shapes from plenty of big-name brands who traditionally don’t take risks. While that demonstrates a growing trend towards watch enthusiasts enjoying more characterful watches, that doesn’t mean that it’s anything new. … ContinuedThe post The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Welcome to episode 44 of A Week In Watches, a week where we recover from the hustle bustle of Watches & Wonders, and ponder some of the releases that may have slipped through the cracks. We talk about a new world timer watch from Ming, a few new watches from Frederique Constant, more hits from Chopard, and even a new LM Perpetual variant in steel from MB&F; (more from the M.A.D. House coming soon!). Stay tuned as we get our hands on many of these new release for more in-depth reviews. We also caught wind of a new batch of cities selected to sell the MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine, for one day only this past week. What will this mean for future availability? Do we want more of these special edition MoonSwatches? Let us know in the comments or head over to YouTube to join the discussion. In total this may have been a somewhat low key year for Watches & Wonders, but there was still plenty to explore and discover, even on the fringes and outside of the show itself. We’ve got an inside look at a few other shows taking place in Geneva last week, so keep an eye out for more from the likes of Sinn, DeBethune, F.P. Journe, Doxa, and others. Let us know what releases caught your eye and what you’d like to see reviewed here at Worn & Wound. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Not many watch brands can be proud of the fact that their watches are inspired by dinosaurs, but the deviant horologists over at Urwerk can claim at least two pieces that have drawn inspiration from these overgrown lizards – the UR-100 T-Rex and UR-105 T-Rex. It is the latter that serves as the base for … ContinuedThe post Urwerk auctions the UR-105M Trinity piece unique, inspired by a prehistoric monster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Panerai Radiomir California is their first California dial in a 45mm case. For the first time, Panerai have experimented with a faux-aged PVD case. The green and gilt dial gives the watch a lot of old-world charm thanks to modern techniques. Panerai haven’t been the fastest brand to pick up on new trends historically, … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir California offers a more compact take on their classic dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
One of the most talked about releases this year came courtesy of IWC in the form of a new Ingenieur that takes the watch back to its Gerald Genta design era of history. You can see our hands-on impressions of that watch right here. The new watches take clear inspiration from the 1970s footprint, but offer a quite contemporary execution that won’t be mistaken for anything throwback. But that’s not all people were discussing at their year’s Watches & Wonders, the IWC booth made one of the biggest impressions of the whole fair, setting a funky ‘70s engineering aesthetic against the new watches, which even included a Mercedes C-111 mkIII concept car right in the booth. During our visit to the booth, we ran into IWC CEO (and Worn & Wound Podcast alum) Chris Grainger, who gave us the scoop on the new watches and the booth itself. This watch was a long time coming, as you might imagine, and Chris takes us through some of the development of the design we see today. Oh, and those crown guards? It seems that we’re the only ones that spent any real time stressing about them. See more of our coverage of Watches & Wonders 2023 right here, and head over to our YouTube channel for more of our video content. The post In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Quill & Pad
In this presentation that John McGonigle of Oileán Watch gave for Engineers Ireland, he explains how watches work. The video is well worth watching for anyone interested in just what makes a mechanical wristwatch tick.
Worn & Wound
Ming is back with a follow up to their 19.02 Worldtimer, released four years ago. That watch was something of a game-changer for Ming, adding a new complication to the brand’s repertoire, and served as an expansion of their design language. For the new 29.01 Worldtimer, Ming is once again taking a rather large step forward as the brand continues to refine their aesthetic and reimagine what a Ming can be. The concept of the new 29 series, according to Ming, is liquidity. The designs of watches in this new chapter, starting with the Worldtimer, will be defined by smooth, flowing lines, and an organic appearance. That, you might be thinking, kind of describes just about every Ming ever made. But on the 29.01 the brand has taken steps to make the watch appear seamless, as if it’s all of a single piece. The case does not have a bezel, for example, but the crystal is designed to merge directly into the case itself. The dial is quite complex and appears to be made of two pieces: a main sapphire dial and a 24 hour metallic dial with a gradient effect. Both are heavily lumed, the sapphire portion with HyCeram ceramic Super-LumiNova X1 lume, but they have been executed in such a way as to appear to be merged together. The use of sapphire in the dial itself, the large box crystal, and in the handset contributes to a sense that all of the dial components are floating across different levels, according to the brand. It’s honestly tough to make sense of in the photos, but we ima...
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date is the first retrograde display in a sports watch for the brand The watch comes ready for adventure, equipped with a trio of strap options Launching as a boutique exclusive, the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date brings tones down the sportiness of the collection Capitalising on the runaway … ContinuedThe post The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph celebrates the Offshore’s 30th anniversary This black ceramic model pays homage to the Royal Oak Offshore “End of Days” (ref. 25770SN) released in 1999 in collaboration with Arnold Schwarzenegger The new 43mm model repeats the high-contrast aesthetic of yellow on black The background It’s fair to say … ContinuedThe post I’ll be back: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph pays homage to Arnie’s “End of Days” model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new BA111OD CHPTR_Δ introduces hypocycloidal time-telling. Olivier Mory, who built the cheapest Swiss-made tourbillon, was involved with the in-house BA111LOD 09310 module. For only US$2,620, it’s an incredible value proposition for a technical Swiss luxury watch. BA111OD have only been around since 2019, but there seems to be no limit to their ambition of … ContinuedThe post The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ is hypocycloidal genius personified appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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