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Live from WWG25: Highlights from Rolex new releases
Our next stop is at Rolex. We published the releases yesterday, and here are our hands-on impressions with live photographs.
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Deployant
Our next stop is at Rolex. We published the releases yesterday, and here are our hands-on impressions with live photographs.
Time+Tide
Laurent Ferrier puts together its two main lines, the Classic and the Auto, in a delectable, baby blue package.The post Laurent Ferrier combines the best of both worlds with the new Classic Auto Horizon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Louis Cartier’s Tank watch, introduced in 1917, marked a before and after in men’s wristwatches. Breaking with the taste for ornately decorated cases, the Tank Normale’s geometric case, inspired by an aerial view of armoured Renault tanks deployed in WW1, was a precursor of the clean minimalist lines of Art Deco. Thanks to its well-executed […]
Quill & Pad
The Sartory-Billard SB04-E offers many of the traditional benefits of the indie buying experience, including exclusivity, a unique vision, and the pleasure of knowing your watchmaker. At well under €5,000, these editions are proof that you don’t need an F.P. Journe budget to buy independent.
Monochrome
The ultra-thin, 3.7mm Calibre 98.01-L, certified by both the Poinçon de Genève and COSC, was the second developed by the Chopard manufacture and followed the groundbreaking Calibre L.U.C 96.01-L, which was created in collaboration with Michel Parmigiani and laid the foundation for future movement development. The manually wound 98.01-L featured Chopard’s so-called Quattro technology: a […]
Monochrome
Alpina celebrated the brand´s 140th anniversary in 2023 by launching a new Heritage collection. Until now, the collection comprised the round-shaped Automatic, the Carrée Automatic, the Diver 300 Heritage model, and a funky Startimer Pilot with bumper movement. This year for Watches and Wonders, Alpina added a manually wound model to the line-up, a compact, […]
Hodinkee
Chronographs, Ingenieurs, and techy QPs – IWC is off to the races for "F1."
Worn & Wound
In recent days, much of the watch internet has been abuzz with the apparent news of a new Rolex collection with the somewhat hard to believe name of Land-Dweller. Leaked images of the Crown’s new watch began to emerge in the days leading up to this year’s Watches & Wonders, and, as you’d expect from the internet, debate ensued. The shots purported to capture a Datejust-adjacent design with sharper lines and, perhaps, an integrated bracelet. The official Rolex teaser for Watches & Wonders on Instagram seemed to confirm many of the details that had already been guessed, and then a very Daniel Craig at the Olympics style image of Roger Federer wearing the watch hit social media via the tennis star’s (and Rolex ambassador’s) Instagram account. It appeared to everyone at this point that the Land-Dweller was real – we only had to wait for the details. Rolex has made those details public as of today, with the announcement of the new Land-Dweller collection. This is much more, though, than Rolex jumping on the integrated bracelet sports watch bandwagon (although, it is that, at least a little bit). The Land-Dweller is also an important moment for Rolex as a movement maker, as it introduces their new, patented, direct impulse escapament which goes by the trade name Dynapulse. It uses dual silicon wheels and introduces us to Rolex caliber 7135. More on that caliber in a moment, but first, the broad strokes of the Land-Dweller collection. The new collection features a f...
Worn & Wound
Tudor returns to the Black Bay 58 in a major way at this year’s Watches & Wonders, with an update inspired by a 1990s prototype that had been nearly lost to time. The latest 58 comes in a bold burgundy colorway, with a bright red dial and matching bezel. It’s a decidedly different approach to the Black Bay 58, which has been, in our minds, a thoughtful reinterpretation of an old fashioned tool watch. This new version is significantly more extroverted in its personality and appearance – it has considerably more flash than your standard issue 58. The broad strokes of this Black Bay 58 are effectively in line with earlier versions of the watch. It maintains the 39mm case with the same mix of brushed and polished finishing. Circular and rectangular hour markers are generously filled with luminous material, and of course we have the “Snowflake” handset that is common to all Black Bays. But there are a number of small refinements and improvements to this 58 make it feel a bit more contemporaneous with other recent Tudor releases. First, bracelet selection. For the first time, the Black Bay is available on a five-link, Jubilee-style bracelet. It’s a natural fit for a watch like the 58 and immediately gives it a look that is a bit dressier and less tool oriented. It’s still available on a three-link bracelet as well, but this bracelet is now fitted with Tudor’s T-fit clasp (as is the five-link, and the optional rubber strap). Like the Black Bay 68 we covered ea...
Worn & Wound
Last year, I had the privilege of sitting down with Benoit de Clerck to talk about all things Zenith. At the time, Benoit was just a few short months into his tenure as CEO of Zenith, and Watches & Wonders was only barely in the rearview, but de Clerck made it very clear that he was already looking ahead, not just generally, but towards something very specific, and very exciting. “I’m working hard on something new next year, which - obviously - I like, because it’s very unique, and we’re producing very small quantities and all that. And, I can’t tell you much more, but next year we’re celebrating our 160th year and we will come up with something that the collectors will be very, very, very happy with.” Well, now, nearly a year later, we know what that “something new” is, and de Clerck was absolutely right - because it is something to be very, very happy with. I’m talking, of course, about the new Zenith G.F.J. G.F.J., in this case, stands for Georges Favre-Jacot, the name of the man who founded Zenith some 160 years ago, but it might as well stand for ‘Great F***ing Job’ because Zenith has knocked it out of the park with this one. At the heart of the G.F.J. is a revived version of the calibre 135, a historically significant and long-dormant movement, designed by Ephrem Jobin in the years after World War II and produced from 1949 to 1962. The Calibre 135 was widely used by Zenith at that time, but especially prized is the 135-O variant created...
Monochrome
Grand Seiko introduced the Tokyo Lion’s bold, angular case design in 2019 and since then, additional editions have multiplied its aesthetic -limited and regular production-the most recent being the 2024 Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 Tokyo Lion and the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275. This year, the Grand Seiko Sport collection expands by unveiling a […]
Deployant
Next up, Jaeger-LeCoultre. We focus our view on two highlights, both from the Reverso collection. The Geographic and the Minute Repeater.
Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces a series of Reverso timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2025 that are sure to pull the heartstrings of any Reverso lover.
Deployant
its 5pm in Geneva, and we are on our 6th appointment. This time at Tudor to see the new releases from this iconic brand. We pick two highlights
Deployant
Our next appointment is at Hermès. And as with our Live from WWG25 series this week, we bring you for our visit and you see this live from the PalExpo.
Monochrome
IWC is busy this year rolling out new iterations of its Ingenieur, a collection that underwent a major revamp in 2023 to resurface with its Gérald Genta heritage intact. The watch we’re introducing today comes with a fun story involving actor Brad Pitt and the upcoming movie F1. What was initially a prop watch for […]
Worn & Wound
Much to the chagrin of my fellow automotive enthusiast friends, I am not an ardent Formula 1 follower-I prefer motorsports of the all-wheel drive variety, coated in mud in the Finnish wilderness. Still, the allure of the screaming engines, blinding speed, and pure bling of Formula 1 isn’t lost on me. Millions of fans worldwide are captivated by the sport and its entrants for a reason-and TAG Heuer, the official timekeeper of Formula 1, has nine new references to match that ever-growing fervor. In celebration of the colorful 1986 origin of the brand’s Formula 1 Collection, the new models feature bright hues and a reimagined design. Three of the nine pieces feature the more “classic” dial colors of black and white or blue on a steel bracelet. The remaining six are limited edition colorways: black and red, black and yellow, blue and black, white and green, white and red, and green and red. According to TAG Heuer, each model pays direct homage to the 1986 collection in design and function. However, key changes reflect contemporary taste-instead of the original 35mm, the new cases (constructed of sandblasted steel or TH-Polylight depending on the model) measure 38mm but retain the sporty aesthetic that the line is known for. The original shield-shaped markers have also been modernized, appearing now as applied and Super-Luminova-treated indexes. The “Mercedes”-style hands carry on, as does the chunky 60-second scale bezel, date window at 3 o’clock, and agg...
Worn & Wound
2022: the Kodo constant force tourbillon. 2023: the Tentagraph hi-beat mechanical chronograph. 2024: the 9SA4 manual wound, hi-beat, dual-impulse escapement caliber, and Kodo Daybreak. It’s easy to forget that Grand Seiko has brought the proverbial heat to Watches & Wonders every year since the fair started, unveiling something that one could call “revolutionary” for the brand, if on varying scales. Well, it’s looking like 2025 will continue the trend with the introduction of Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, the first caliber with U.F.A., or Ultra Fine Accuracy, designation. Before proceeding, there are two important concepts to understand: Spring Drive and Grand Seiko’s history with acronyms (which, if you know, feel free to jump two paragraphs ahead). Starting with the former, the elevator pitch, which I will take from our article dedicated to the topic is “Spring Drive combines the best of mechanical watchmaking and the best of quartz timekeeping to create a state-of-the-art caliber that lacks the weaknesses inherent to both of these movements.” A bit deeper, Spring Drive movements use the energy stored in a traditional mainspring to drive their proprietary “Tri-synchro” regulator, which replaces the classic lever escapement. It consists of a glide wheel, the rate of which is controlled by an electromagnetic brake, and is essentially regulated by an integrated circuit with a quartz oscillator. The result is a mechanical movement with quartz-like accuracy and...
Monochrome
The Big Crown Pointer Date, an important piece in the history of Oris since 1938, has lived through various iterations over the years, evolving with the times to introduce changes and improvements but always faithful to the spirit of the original. In 2021, Oris introduced a 38mm Big Crown Pointer Date model powered by calibre […]
Monochrome
For many years, the only two Nomos models that offered traveler-oriented functions were the Zurich Weltzeit (a.k.a Zurich Worldtimer) and the Tangomat GMT, which had airport codes to denote the 24 time zones. This year at Watches and Wonders, the Glashütte-based brand presents a new movement to power its Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer series, which […]
Deployant
Our next stop is Parmigiani Fleurier, one of our favourite brands. This is our touch and feel session with handling impressions and live photographs.
Monochrome
Montblanc‘s appreciation for Minerva‘s heritage drives its evolution as a watchmaker. The brand embraces Minerva’s time-honoured craftsmanship and savoir-faire by celebrating traditional techniques while exploring the possibilities of modern horology. This commitment is again evident in the newly unveiled 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar, a timepiece poised to become a standout addition to Montblanc’s collection with […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The year 2025 marks 160 years since the founding of Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland, back in 1865. As watchmaking brands are wont to do, Zenith is commemorating this milestone by putting forward a watch for the occasion that’s representative of its storied history, as well as its own contemporary identity. Now, as Watches & Wonders 2025 kicks off, we are clear on how the brand aims to celebrate the occasion, and its chosen vehicle is a new collection inspired by Zenith’s own founder, complete with an update on its storied Caliber 135, which breathes fresh life into an old favorite movement. These are the conditions in which the rising star of the G.F.J. collection joins Zenith’s constellation. At the tail end of the 19th century, the mounting competition within the watch industry brought about a new standard of gauging the accuracy of movements, and watchmakers began employing observatory trials to signal to customers that their products were as accurate as possible. This was also at a time in which highly accurate timepieces were necessary for successful marine navigation. Before the COSC certification standards that are so rigidly defined today were coded, individual movements would be sent to observatories, where they would undergo testing procedures, as well as competitions for chronometry prices. Zenith details that it had been routinely entering chronometry trials as early as 1897. And, because a bit of healthy bragging is appropriate with brag-worthy achieveme...
Fratello
Since 2021, Nomos has been steadily expanding its Club Sport Neomatik collection. The first reference was the 42mm Date, which came on a new three-row bracelet. Each year since then, a new size has joined the brand’s sportier collection. You can now choose between the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik in 34, 37, 39, and 42mm […] Visit Introducing: The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Makes A Fantastic Landing to read the full article.
Monochrome
In 2022, we went as far as to consider the Tudor Black Bay Pro GMT the best tool watch we have seen that year, impressed by its cool design, ultra-robust construction and fair price. A perfect adventure watch, solid and legible, with a GMT complication for travellers – a do-it-all, wear-it-everywhere. This year, this Tudor […]
Deployant
The new releases from Louis Moinet. A revisit to the invention of the chronograph by Louis Moinet in 1816. Live photographs and handling notes from Geneva.
Fratello
Audemars Piguet is famous for using ceramics in its Royal Oak line. Some of the many highlights include the ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and Double Balance Wheel Openworked models. When it comes to specific colors, the first two that come to mind are the black and electric-blue shades that most of you will know. […] Visit Audemars Piguet Introduces Three Royal Oak “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” Models to read the full article.
Time+Tide
IWC's integrated sports/engineer's watch gets a slightly larger 42mm case and bracelet made totally from black ceramic.The post The IWC Ingenieur arrives in full ceramic for the very first time (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
It’s a big year, literally and figuratively, for the Black Bay. This year, Tudor has introduced the all new Black Bay 68, continuing with a naming convention that began with the Black Bay 58 all those years ago. The new Black Bay 68 fills out the range of vintage inspired Black Bays with an all new size for the range, coming in at 43mm. According to Tudur, the new size was created to meet demand from customers who wanted a dive watch with a larger footprint. After the Black 58 and Black Bay 54 (both under 40mm) and the longstanding “standard” Black Bay coming in at 41mm, the Black Bay 68 represents genuinely new ground for the collection in terms of size, and signals that the small watch trend that many say started with the Black Bay 58 might be coming to an end. If you’re familiar with the various forms of the Black Bay, there won’t be too many surprises here. The case is stainless steel with a unidirectional black bezel, with dial options in blue and silver. The dials are subtly domed and have a barely-there radially brushed finish, and are matched with large lume filled hour markers. The hands are the now familiar “Snowflake” style launched in 1969. While the case is 43mm, the important thing to note about these watches is that they are proportionally identical to the Black Bay 54 and Black Bay 58. So, in spite of the larger size, they wear in a way that feels quite familiar if you’ve spent any time at all with either of those earlier Black Bays. Accor...
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2025 is the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1, a tribute to the brand’s storied Formula 1 history. This striking timepiece features a white ceramic case that dispenses with a traditional metallic inner container in a departure from technical norms in construction. A red translucent dial reveal the mechanics below, while the chronograph counters - finished with an asphalt-like texture,white and yellow grid markings, and official F1 typography - proudly display British F1 commentator David Croft’s famous phrase: “Lights Out & Away We Go.” Initial thoughts At first glance, the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 may appear to be just another Formula 1–inspired watch. However, a closer look reveals the subtle yet distinctive details that set it apart from its competitors. Rather than relying on overt F1 motifs, it integrates refined elements-such as the checkered-flag pattern-that showcase its superb craftsmanship and elevate it above other racing-inspired chronographs. Priced at CHF155,000, the Monaco may initially appear costly, particularly given TAG Heuer’s history of being more accessible. Yet, beyond the brand’s heritage lies a timepiece whose exceptional craftsmanship more than warrants its price tag. It is a Vaucher-powered rattrapante chronograph, and this version is unquestionably the most appealing of the iterations to date. And the Formula 1–inspired touches are thoughtfully integrated, an...
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