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Norqain Introduces Two New Neverest Glacier References with Dials Inspired by the Khumbu Icefall Worn & Wound
Norqain Introduces Two New Neverest Aug 11, 2023

Norqain Introduces Two New Neverest Glacier References with Dials Inspired by the Khumbu Icefall

Adventure and a well-made timepiece have long gone hand-in-hand. From Arctic expeditions to sailing adventures, the spirit of discovery is only enhanced by a great watch to keep one company. One natural landmark above all others seems to encapsulate the spirit of adventure, while simultaneously showing us the beauty of the natural world: Mount Everest. With its dangerous valleys, snowy peaks, and legendary status in our collective imagination, Mount Everest has captured thrill seekers for centuries. It’s no wonder, then, that NORQAIN has added two new models to its NEVEREST range, each continuing to highlight the exceptionalism of the world’s tallest mountain. Each watch in this new release takes on its own interpretation of mountaineering excellence with a modern feel, making for a unique interpretation of Mount Everest’s legacy that doesn’t feel too contrived or on the nose. For example, the NEVEREST GMT Glacier Grey & Gold takes inspiration from the gold light-filled crevasses of the mountain with a “cracked” gold dial against a black background. The watch is complemented by a 41mm stainless steel case, a date window at 3 o’clock, red gold-plated hands, and Superluminova hands and indices. It’s the small details of this watch which show not only an attention to detail, but an imagination to marry performance and aesthetics. The second release from the NEVEREST line-up is the 40mm Glacier Black & Gold. Inspired by the Khumbu Icefall, the most dangerous pa...

In Depth: Marco Lang Zweigesicht-1 SJX Watches
Aug 11, 2023

In Depth: Marco Lang Zweigesicht-1

Marco Lang made a comeback in 2020 with his eponymous brand and the Zweigesicht-1. The year before the German watchmaker departed his prior brand after disagreements with the investor who was the majority owner, which allowed Mr Lang to revert to being a true independent watchmaker. Despite a relatively conservative face, the Zweigesicht is quirky and original from a technical perspective. Zwei gesicht translates as “double faced”, which describes the watch literally. It has two faces, one on each side of the case, both of which indicate the time. The watch can be worn on either side thanks to lugs that are removable (in an operation that requires delicate manual work). And the movement incorporates a novel, and perhaps unnecessary, shock recorder. Initial thoughts To start with, zwei gesicht is a mouthful for non-German speakers. Perhaps for that reason, fellow German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne opted for made-up words like Zeitwerk and Datograph. But despite the unfamiliar name, the watch is elegant in form, measuring under 10 mm high, and impressive in decoration and construction. The zwei gesicht nature of the watch gives it two distinct appearances, a low-key conventional front and an elaborate, mechanical reverse. Two-faced watches are not new by any means, but Mr Lang’s approach is notable for rely on conventional lugs and by consequence, maintaining a classical appearance. In contrast, most double-faced watches are either rectangular or have unusual lugs. T...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Geoff Hess joins Sotheby’s as Head of Watches for the Americas Time+Tide
Aug 11, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Geoff Hess joins Sotheby’s as Head of Watches for the Americas

It’s that time of year where the Swiss typically go on holiday, which means there’s less news about fresh releases this week. Nonetheless, some big news was announced at Sotheby’s, when Geoff Hess was revealed as the esteemed auction house’s new Head of Watches for the Americas region. “It is my honour to take up … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Geoff Hess joins Sotheby’s as Head of Watches for the Americas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Vero Smokey Bear editions offer a timely reminder of man’s influence on nature Time+Tide
Aug 11, 2023

The new Vero Smokey Bear editions offer a timely reminder of man’s influence on nature

Smokey Bear became established as a quintessential figure for all Americans towards the end of World War II. The character was created in 1944 to help prevent forest fires, and his role today might be even more relevant due to the continuing rise in global temperatures and  devastating wildfires. Smokey Bear’s mission, therefore, transcends borders … ContinuedThe post The new Vero Smokey Bear editions offer a timely reminder of man’s influence on nature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Redesigns HydroConquest With New GMT Collection Worn & Wound
Longines Redesigns HydroConquest Aug 10, 2023

Longines Redesigns HydroConquest With New GMT Collection

Longines’ polarizing dive watch collection, the HydroConquest, has received a major overhaul from the Swatch Group brand, featuring a GMT compilation for the first time since 2007. This is still a true dive capable watch through and through, integrating the GMT component in a more subtle manner than you might imagine. As we’ve come to expect from Longines recently, this new collection is kicking off with a plethora of earth tone color schemes, and multiple strap options. There is some retro-inspiration happening here, but this one doesn’t feel like a throwback. If you weren’t fond of the 5 stars of the dial of the Zulu Time, this might be the one you’ve been waiting for.  The new HydroConquest is built within a steel case that measures 41mm in diameter and 12.9mm in thickness, and places a large rotating bezel assembly front and center. Rather than placing the 24 hour scale on the bezel, they’ve reserved this element for the watch’s diving ambitions, and it is graduated to the minutes as you might expect. The 24 hour scale is moved to the rehaut  at the perimeter of the dial, and is bi-color to separate the halves of the day. It’s a graceful implementation that retains enough functionality to be practical, though perhaps not quite as quick to read at a glance compared to other GMT watches. Moving into the dial things get a bit more interesting still, with some unusual but welcome decisions being made that help this watch stand on its own. First, the dial ...

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem: Reflections of a Laser Physicist on ‘Saxem’ Quill & Pad
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Aug 10, 2023

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem: Reflections of a Laser Physicist on ‘Saxem’

In early 2023, Hublot introduced the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem, featuring a case made of a mysterious and rather impressive-looking crystal called Saxem. It looked like an addition to the brand's extensive line of sapphire watches. But as a retired laser physicist, I wondered: what material was behind that name? Perhaps a special kind of synthetic sapphire?

Zodiac Celebrates 70 Years of the Super Sea Wolf Skin Diver with a New Huckberry Collaborative Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Zodiac Celebrates 70 Years Aug 9, 2023

Zodiac Celebrates 70 Years of the Super Sea Wolf Skin Diver with a New Huckberry Collaborative Limited Edition

Our friends at Huckberry have partnered with Zodiac for their second collaborative limited edition, an homage to the original version of the Sea Wolf from 1953 with subtle bronze accents. This year marks the 70th anniversary of the iconic Zodiac skin diver platform, and the easy to wear dive watch arguably makes more sense today than it ever has. A skin diver, by definition, is a little lighter, smaller, and more casual than a full throated “pro” dive watch, while still being more than robust enough for day to day wear, including any number of water based activities. And as Zodiac has proven over and over again, their simple and straightforward design is a fantastic blank canvas for collaborators, with the Sea Wolf easily taking on any number of personalities and characteristics as colors shift and change. The new limited edition made with Huckberry is suitably vintage inspired, with the bronze adding an additional layer of refinement.  The new Super Sea Wolf Bronze is a bit of a fakeout in that it’s not a full bronze watch, but keeps the bronze content limited to the rotating dive bezel and crown. This is a smart choice, giving the watch a subtle two-tone appearance and dressing it up just a tad from its tool watch roots. Bronze, of course, is known to patina quite heavily and in a very particular way, so we’d expect the bezel to take on a weathered look as this is used. According to Huckberry, the application of bronze here was inspired by early diving helmets, ...

Raging Against the Machine in Talkeetna, Alaska: The Impossible Watch Company Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Baltic Aug 9, 2023

Raging Against the Machine in Talkeetna, Alaska: The Impossible Watch Company

Impossible Watch Company, based in Talkeetna, Alaska, has a name with a double meaning. Chris, the owner of the brand, told me he called it “Impossible” because it seemed like such a tall task for a watch industry outsider to get a brand off the ground. “I had to jump through so many hoops,” he said, referring to the start-up process and the various logistical challenges he faced when starting the company. And Chris has other irons in the fire besides his watch brand – he’s an old school entrepreneur with hugely varied interests, making Impossible Watch Company (IMP for short) even more of a challenge. And yet, here he is, with a growing following on Instagram, and a website full of sold out listings. As a friend pointed out to him after the brand started to gain some traction, the name works in the case of success too: “I M Possible.”  On the one hand, IMP is not unlike a whole bunch of other small, independently run brands. It’s a one man operation, and the watches have a vintage inspired aesthetic that will naturally garner comparisons to those made by Furlan Marri, Baltic, and others. But look closer, and there’s something else happening here, something equal parts compelling (in terms of the watchmaking) and subversive. Sure, there’s a sector dial chronograph in the collection that on the surface has some fairly obvious similarities to watches made by those brands mentioned above. But there are also time only watches with sterile stone dials. An...

Vero Introduces a Pair of Watches Inspired by the Long History of Smokey Bear, the Iconic National Symbol of Forest Conservation Worn & Wound
Aug 9, 2023

Vero Introduces a Pair of Watches Inspired by the Long History of Smokey Bear, the Iconic National Symbol of Forest Conservation

Here’s a character watch we never saw coming. To celebrate the 79th birthday of Smokey Bear (famous for his “Only you can prevent wildfires” tagline), Vero is releasing a pair of officially licensed Smokey Bear watches. It’s actually a natural partnership for Vero. As a fire prevention mascot, Smokey is well known in the Pacific Northwest, where Vero is based. And Vero’s brand identity very much leans into the culture of love for the outdoors – it’s a huge part of every watch they make, both in terms of the aesthetics (with designs and colors inspired by Vero’s Oregon home) and their robust nature (the Workhorse comes immediately to mind). These new watches have a charm factor that’s just about off the charts if you grew up seeing Smokey on TV warning you about the dangers of forest fires, but they’re also Vero through and through.  First up is the Smokey ‘44 watch, which takes its inspiration from the types of early field style watches that would have been in use the year Smokey made his debut. The dominant feature here is the large cathedral hour hand, paired with Arabic numerals in a distinctive gothic typeface. Vero says this typeface was chosen to match iconic mid century signage found in the US National Parks System. The Smokey ‘44 watch includes the familiar illustration of Smokey (wearing his hat, of course) at the 12:00 position, with “Only You” text right underneath, a reference to his iconic catchphrase.  The Smokey ‘64 is perhaps...

Norqain’s new Neverest Glacier models have charitable intentions Time+Tide
Norqain s new Neverest Glacier Aug 9, 2023

Norqain’s new Neverest Glacier models have charitable intentions

The Norqain Neverest Glacier returns with two rocky-faced references. The 41mm GMT model and 40mm three-hand model are decorated with rose gold running through their cracked surfaces. 10% of the sales will go to the Butterfly Help Project, housing and educating the families of sherpas who died on Mount Everest. As a brand focused on … ContinuedThe post Norqain’s new Neverest Glacier models have charitable intentions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Summer Shades for the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Glashütte Orig... Aug 9, 2023

Summer Shades for the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph

Glashütte Original has released the latest variations of its vintage-style sports chronograph, the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date. First introduced in 2014, the watch is defined by a squarish case, integrated bracelet, and in-house movement. Now the German watch brand has unveiled a limited edition pair that feature matte, lacquered dials in either ochre or grey-blue. Initial thoughts Given the niche appeal of its obviously-retro case, it is unsurprising that the Seventies Chronograph doesn’t receive as much attention as most sports watches derived from that period. It doesn’t quite have the same look of the most popular watches of the 1970s (think sports watches from Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet). That’s something of a shame considering the excellent, integrated chronograph movement inside. Hopefully, the introduction of brighter dial options will boost its appeal. Certainly, the new dial offerings align with the current trend for coloured dials, particular the dial in light blue that’s much like the shade found in the Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection. This dial update significantly improves the models in terms of visual appeal as it gives the model a more lively appearance compared to earlier versions that had conventional dark, metallic finish dials. Priced at US$14,100 on a rubber strap and US$15,300 on a matching bracelet, the new models cost slightly more than the standard models. But given these are limited editions in colours will not be seen a...

Exploring the Importance of the Watch Strap Worn & Wound
Casio nally be writing about Aug 8, 2023

Exploring the Importance of the Watch Strap

Editor’s Note: If you’re a particular type of watch enthusiast, you might know Stephen Damico from his website, Strap Sense. Strap Sense is one of those little corners of watch enthusiasm that can only exist in a space filled with people who are truly passionate about their hobby. It’s a blog devoted entirely to strap reviews, with every bit as much attention and care paid to the intricacies of a strap as we pay to watches here on Worn & Wound. We love straps, and appreciate the huge variety of straps of all kinds that are out there to be mixed and match, and we’re excited that Stephen will occasionally be writing about some of the straps that are of most interest to him right here on these pages. Today, before any formal reviews, we asked Stephen to introduce himself, and tell us about why he feels the watch strap is worthy of such a close analysis.  I have a saying I often use on my website that informs how I approach writing about straps: a watch strap tells the story wherein the watch is the main character.   It is all about the story – it is who we are. Entire marketing campaigns are built around creating and curating a story, and we all wear watches to help tell our story. One day we can be a diver, another an astronaut, and by the weekend we are a super spy or royalty. Mark Twain once said, “I like a good story well told. That is the reason I am sometimes forced to tell them myself.” There is nobody on earth more qualified to help you tell your sto...

Hands-on with the Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton WatchAdvice
Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton Pros Aug 8, 2023

Hands-on with the Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton

Pros Unique sapphire crystal The cool Ceramos bezelSkeletonized dial Cons Crown operations can get trickyCombining Square faceted sapphire crystal and Skeleton dial can get busy.Design cues for the DiaStar are not for everyone. Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.5/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 8/10 Rado’s iconic DiaStar model gets another update following last year’s 60th anniversary of the DiaStar edition, getting a case material change from hard metal to Rado CeramosTM and a one of kind Square faceted sapphire crystal. The Rado DiaStar was first introduced in 1962, and what an introduction it was. A milestone for the watch industry, the Rado DiaStar came with a ‘funky’ design and, more importantly, a scratch-proof case. Rado designed the very first DiaStar as a ceramic timepiece with a material called “tungsten carbide”. Although some people may argue that it’s not ceramic, tungsten carbide is considered ceramic, at least by the American Ceramic Society.  This is important because no timepiece at the time of DiaStar’s debut could offer a scratch-proof watch. When it comes to material innovation, the Diastar in ceramic was a breakthrough for the watchmaking industry. In modern times, the use of ceramic on timepieces is a more regular occurrence; however, for the industry as a whole, brands didn’t get on board with this material till around the 1980s. This highlights how far ahead in terms of material expertise and usage Rado wa...

Pöhlmann-Bresan Premieres with the Prestige SJX Watches
Aug 8, 2023

Pöhlmann-Bresan Premieres with the Prestige

The Prestige from the newly renamed Pöhlmann-Bresan (the brand started life as Junge Uhrmacher) is one of the latest additions to Saxony’s long and storied history as the epicentre of German watchmaking. Based in Dresden, just a short drive from the nation’s horological heart in Glashütte, the Pöhlmann-Bresan workshop is up and running with all of the traditional hand skills one might expect. Remarkably, this has been achieved just ten years after the founders met each other while working with and learning from Marco Lang while he was still at Lang & Heyne. Initial thoughts The watch in question is the perfect showcase for the artisanal techniques mastered by founders Lukas Pöhlmann and Josef Bresan during their careers thus far. Inside is the Pöhlmann-Bresan JU26-01 that was originally designed by LIP and subsequently produced under licence in the Soviet Union as the Pobeda cal. 2608. Pöhlmann-Bresan found this calibre attractive because of its unusual bridge architecture. The JU26-01 before being mounted in the case, showing the depth that has been achieved. Thanks to the central seconds hand wheel being set directly above the centre wheel of the gear train, the bridges are uncommonly high. This double-layered effect means that incredible visual depth can be achieved if the train bridge is appropriately skeletonised, as Messrs Pöhlmann and Bresan have done here. Additionally, the rapidly-moving central seconds wheel acts as a natural and dynamic focal point, a...

The King Seiko SJE095 takes its dial inspiration from Japan’s national flower Time+Tide
Seiko SJE095 takes Aug 8, 2023

The King Seiko SJE095 takes its dial inspiration from Japan’s national flower

The King Seiko SJE095 highlights a chrysanthemum pattern as Japan’s national flower. The case is based on the original King Seiko from 1965 with an even thinner profile. It’s a limited edition of 600 pieces and will be available from October 2023. Although its return to market focused mainly on recreating vintage models, King Seiko … ContinuedThe post The King Seiko SJE095 takes its dial inspiration from Japan’s national flower appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Glashütte Original’s Latest Limited Edition Continues their Recent Tradition of Fun, 70s Inspired Chronographs Worn & Wound
Glashütte Original s Latest Limited Edition Aug 7, 2023

Glashütte Original’s Latest Limited Edition Continues their Recent Tradition of Fun, 70s Inspired Chronographs

In what is becoming an unlikely summer tradition Glashütte Original is back with a pair of chronographs in fun, 1970s inspired colors. For each of the last two years, the German brand has introduced limited edition versions of their excellent Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date, an integrated bracelet sports watch that you’d be forgiven for forgetting was in GO’s catalog given that the lion’s share of watch enthusiast attention is placed on the watches that make up the Pano collection. Their vintage inspired designs, however, tap into a completely different, funky aesthetic that the brand owns every bit as convincingly as the more formal watches under the Pano umbrella, and the annual release of colorful, limited edition chronos has become a highlight.  While Glashütte Original has opted for loud and bright colors in past limited edition drops, this year they’ve gone for something a little more muted. The “Golden Bay” chronograph is in an unusual ochre shade, and appears as a somewhat dull golden tone. It vaguely resembles a dial that might have been exposed to weather and harsh sunlight for decades, which fits into the 70s vibe nicely. The “Ocean Breeze” variant is a more obviously seasonal shade of light blue, clearly inspired by summer beach getaways. Both variants have a matte lacquer finish, and are accented with black subdials for the chronograph.  It’s worth noting here that the chronograph functionality in this reference is anything but run of...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Arken Alterum is a dive-ready GMT in lightweight titanium Time+Tide
Aug 7, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Arken Alterum is a dive-ready GMT in lightweight titanium

After two years of waiting, fans of the Arken Instrumentum have finally received a followup from the microbrand. At the time, it was one of the best-specced titanium divers around for the money, and the new Arken Alterum has a lot to live up to. Now that titanium has become a lot more prevalent in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Arken Alterum is a dive-ready GMT in lightweight titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Lion’s-Mane Dial for the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive Aug 7, 2023

A Lion’s-Mane Dial for the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive

The Sport case inspired by the Grand Seiko emblem is a fairly new addition to the brand’s stable, having made its debut in 2019 with a trio of limited editions to mark the 20th anniversary of the Spring Drive. Now the distinctive facetted case joins the regular collection with the Sport Spring Drive SBGA481 “Tokyo Lion”. The big and bold case is accompanied by a fresh opaline dial featuring a texture reminiscent of a lion’s mane.  Initial thoughts  Although Grand Seiko historically expended a significant amount of effort in developing its more formal offerings, it more recently extended its efforts towards its Sports line, particularly the “Lion” models with its trademark facetted case. Initially found only on limited editions, this case has now transitioned into a readily-available production model. As with many Grand Seiko watches, sports or not, the Tokyo Lion’s standout feature is the dial, specifically the intricate and abstract textured pattern that complements the zaratsu polishing on the titanium case. The pattern is appealing enough that I hope the brand further iterates on this captivating pattern; though I expect that is a given since Grand Seiko inevitably iterates on successful models and elements. It is worth noting that the Tokyo Lion is fairly oversized at 44.5 mm, like many Grand Seiko Sports models, but given that the case and bracelet are made from titanium, it should feel light and comfortable while on the wrist.  The Tokyo Lion is pric...

Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 3: The Seiko House Ginza (Wako Main Building) Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 3 Aug 6, 2023

Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 3: The Seiko House Ginza (Wako Main Building)

So. I have detailed the first stop of my trip to Japan with Grand Seiko at the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi – the home of all things 9S mechanical. Then we returned back to Ginza from Morioka, and swung by the Seiko Museum Ginza to get intimate with the history of the corporation and the … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 3: The Seiko House Ginza (Wako Main Building) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The 2024 Toyota Land Cruiser has Finally Arrived, an Equally Drool Worthy Special Edition Porsche, & Building your Very Own Mars Rover Perseverance Worn & Wound
Aug 5, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The 2024 Toyota Land Cruiser has Finally Arrived, an Equally Drool Worthy Special Edition Porsche, & Building your Very Own Mars Rover Perseverance

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Toyota The 2024 Toyota Land Cruiser Is Finally Revealed Via Toyota The Land Cruiser has come a long way since the 40 series was introduced in the United States. The boxy profile, fold-down windshield and rear jump seats screamed adventure and would continue to embody that very spirit, albeit with more creature comforts with the later 200 series, which would be the last of the beloved truck we’d see here stateside. Well, after three years of rumors, teasers and much anticipation here on WSG, the Land Cruiser has finally returned with an all new 2024 model that blends its reputation for ruggedness and exploration with an array of modern day upgrades. Via Toyota Compared to the 200 series, there seems to be a return to form that embraces the boxier outline seen in more vintage models. The 2024 Land Cruiser flexes its muscles in all the right places with a pronounced hood that angles down into the flared out front fenders. The body framing around the windshield appears to be closer to perpendicular to the ground, squaring off the body’s top half and the rear does ...

Glorious Burgundy is Experiencing an Unprecedented Golden Age of Fantastic Wine Vintages – Reprise Quill & Pad
Aug 5, 2023

Glorious Burgundy is Experiencing an Unprecedented Golden Age of Fantastic Wine Vintages – Reprise

“So marvelous, so delicate was the bouquet, it seemed an impertinence to go further and taste this miraculous liquid; and yet, on the palate it almost made one regret the waste of time the moments spent in taking in the perfume.” Ken Gargett didn't write that, but he feels the same way about the fabulous wines of Burgundy. Find out here why this is the golden age for this region.

Watch Spotting at Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023 Worn & Wound
Aug 4, 2023

Watch Spotting at Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023

The Windup Watch Fairs are a great experience for many reasons. You can see new watches, talk to people from the brand, maybe catch a live podcast or panel, and more. But one of the best things to do, when not engaged with a brand, is to walk around and keep your eyes on the wrists around you, as you’d be amazed at what you might see. In a room full of passionate and knowledgeable watch enthusiasts, there is likely a story to every watch on every wrist. Rare watches, new watches, valuable watches, sentimental watches, watches you never knew existed, and more. And, since you’re in a room of like-minded individuals, you can strike up a conversation, and it won’t be weird, like on the subway (don’t do that). Featured below is a small selection of the watches on the wrists of Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023 attendees. As you’ll see, there was a lot of variety. From micro brands to luxury staples to high-end independents, just about every facet of the industry was represented. Stay up to date on future Windup Watch Fairs Images from this post: The post Watch Spotting at Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Review: the Zenith Defy Skyline in Black Ceramic Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Skyline Aug 4, 2023

Review: the Zenith Defy Skyline in Black Ceramic

For fans of the Zenith Defy, it’s practically impossible not to compare the new Skyline models to the now retired Classic references. As a self described Defy fan, I’ve found myself doing this on a routine basis whenever I get a chance to handle a newer reference. I’ve long held that the Defy, over the years, is pound for pound the very best sports watch line out there. The watches in this collection are adventurous in their design, inherently robust, and naturally distinctive in a sea of sports watches that kind of all look alike. From the very beginning, the Defy has been a trailblazer, something truly unique, but frequently overlooked in favor of watches that it clearly influenced along the way.  Zenith’s release strategy with the Defy almost begs for comparison between generations. The Defy Classic, after being issued in titanium with both solid and skeletonized dials, was made in a trio of ceramic models (black, white, and blue) with skeletonized dials. Similarly, the Skyline was introduced in steel first, was eventually given a skeletonized dial, and finally at this year’s Watches & Wonders we got a ceramic version on a full ceramic bracelet, with both the star motif dial seen here, and a skeletonized version similar to the one reviewed earlier this year by Blake right here. No colored ceramic Defy Skylines have been released yet, but it’s easy to see the similarities between Defy generations. There definitely appears to be a roadmap. And yet, after spen...

The Sportiest Nomos Gets an Update with a New Size and Two New Dial Colors Worn & Wound
Nomos Gets Aug 4, 2023

The Sportiest Nomos Gets an Update with a New Size and Two New Dial Colors

Any watch enthusiast who has been around the corner once or twice has no doubt discovered Nomos, Germany’s worst-kept secret in distinctive design and excellent quality and finishing for its price. Nomos’ unapologetically Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic may not be for everyone, but it’s easy to admire how far this Glashütte-based watchmaker has come in just over three decades. Today we look at the Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38, a watch that is new inside and out. The Ahoi is the sportiest line in the catalog, which admittedly isn’t saying much. But it does have crown guards and 200m of water resistance, considered by Nomos as “suitable for diving.” To that end, the winding stem features a red ring that is only visible when the crown is unscrewed, a reminder that full water resistance is only guaranteed when the crown is entirely secure. The case is pleasantly thin at 9.9mm thanks to a new movement – more on that in a moment. And the lug-to-lug distance has been reduced to 48.7mm, compared to 51mm on the standard Ahoi. Other nice details include a contrasting orange second hand, double-sided anti-reflective coating on the domed crystal, and a waterproof textile strap suitable for diving. Inside, the new Ahoi is powered by the DUW 6101 for the first time. Developed by Nomos and introduced in 2018 with the Neomatik line, this caliber is both beauty and brains. The rotor and bridges get some love with ribbing polish and perlage, and the movement utilizes Nomos’ re-imagine...

New releases from Tissot, Christopher Ward and more Time+Tide
Christopher Ward Aug 4, 2023

New releases from Tissot, Christopher Ward and more

We are really feeling the heat of summer in the Northern hemisphere, and it seems that the watch industry feels the same. Compared to last week, this one has been rather quiet as far as new watch releases – which makes sense considering most people in Europe are taking holidays. However, some long-awaited timepieces, especially … ContinuedThe post New releases from Tissot, Christopher Ward and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Panerai Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01347, PAM01348 and California PAM01349 SJX Watches
Panerai Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01347 Aug 4, 2023

Hands On: Panerai Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01347, PAM01348 and California PAM01349

Though much of Panerai’s current line up tilts towards more contemporary designs, its new launches for the year included a trio of Radiomir models that will please enthusiasts who appreciate Panerai’s historical watches: the Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01347 and PAM01348, and the Radiomir California PAM01349. All three are equipped with the eight-day P.5000 movement, but are presented in a more wearable 45 mm case with an aged finish. Initial thoughts Panerai’s distinctive aesthetic has given birth to a few iconic designs, all of which have been iterated numerous times. Though the brand has been rightly criticised for repetitive renditions, it is inevitable given a history centred on just a handful of models. The Radiomir is one such iconic design, and it seemed to have fallen out of favour in recent years with the brand choosing instead of roll out many, many Luminor models. The Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01348 Consequently, it is gratifying to see the brand’s renewed emphasis on the Radiomir while infusing the design with fresh elements to make it more than a mere vintage remake. Furthermore, the new models offer enhanced wearability with a 45 mm case, in contrast to older references that mostly had a larger 47 mm case. As an aside, the three have “Brunito” cases with a simulated aged finish that is a bit of a gimmick but suits the design of the watches. I would have preferred a conventional mirrored finish as found on earlier Radiomir models, but the ...

Adding Some Vintage Style With The Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni WatchAdvice
Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni Aug 4, 2023

Adding Some Vintage Style With The Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni

The chance to experience the latest 3 day Radiomir from Panerai was too hard to pass up. But how did it hold up, especially comparing it to the 8 Giorni I road-tested a month or so ago? What We Love Vintage styled design aestheticSlim case profile sits flush to the wristTextured dial and aged lumed numerals What We Don’t Thick strap is a little chunkyNo see through caseback3 Day Manual Winding Overall Rating: 8.875/10 Value for money: 9/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 Back in June, I was able to experience the new Panerai Radiomir 8 Giorni that the brand released for Watches and Wonders this year. I was immediately drawn to the distressed look of the eSteel and the blue smoked and textured dial. Check out my review of it here for the full details. So when the opportunity came up to wear the Tre Giorni (three day) version for a couple of weeks, and be able to compare directly to the 8 Days variant, I jumped at the chance. And what better place to photograph a watch with nautical and Navy roots than down by the bay and marina! Seemed fitting to take a naval inspired watch to the marina for some photos First Impressions Now, the differences between the Tre Giorni and the Otto Giorni are not huge, and other than the movement’s power reserve, it’s basically aesthetics. But then the look of a watch is a major factor when it comes to what you choose. It either looks good and resonates with you, or it doesn’t. The first impression of the Tre Giorni is ...

AGREE OR DISAGREE: You shared your thoughts on whether or not solid casebacks should make a comeback… Time+Tide
Aug 4, 2023

AGREE OR DISAGREE: You shared your thoughts on whether or not solid casebacks should make a comeback…

To solid caseback, or exhibition caseback, that is the question. Or at least it was the question Fergus raised when they wrote the latest Making the Case column, arguing for solid casebacks to make a comeback. We thought the solid versus exhibition caseback dilemma would be very divisive, and after taking the query to Instagram it is … ContinuedThe post AGREE OR DISAGREE: You shared your thoughts on whether or not solid casebacks should make a comeback… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.