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The Independedit: Atelier de Chronométrie AdC22 Time+Tide
Feb 18, 2023

The Independedit: Atelier de Chronométrie AdC22

Spain may not be the first place you think of on mention of haute horlogerie, and yet it is the birthplace of one of the more underappreciated independent watch brands – Atelier de Chronométrie. Though not Spanish by name, this Barcelona outfit has been in business for nearly a decade, creating beautiful, mid-century inspired pieces … ContinuedThe post The Independedit: Atelier de Chronométrie AdC22 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Wear The New Bodega x G-Shock 40th Anniversary “Anytime and Anywhere” Worn & Wound
Feb 17, 2023

Wear The New Bodega x G-Shock 40th Anniversary “Anytime and Anywhere”

Boston-based streetwear giant, Bodega, is known for being one of the premier retailers and collaborators in the world of sneakers and fashion since 2006. On February 17th, the brand is releasing their latest collab, and this time it’s one you can wear on your wrist. G-Shock has been in the watch world for a staggering 40 years, and they’ve come up with a heck of a release to celebrate. Based on the original G-Shock, the familiar square DW-5600, this new collar has some added flair that makes it truly something special. Building upon the theme of “Anytime and Anywhere”, the watch draws inspiration from the global reach that both brands have. The ability to throw on a G-Shock and have it work anytime and anywhere rings true to the theme. Instead of the standard matte black resin, the case and bracelet are crafted from a smoke gray translucent resin that adds some depth to the design. They’ve also incorporated a steel bumper bar to add an extra rugged touch. Co-branding on the dial is complete with gold and red accents that really pop off the rest of the gray watch. One of the coolest parts of this collaboration is the old school globe design that’s rendered in red on a green background when the backlight is activated. Flip the watch over and the globe motif is repeated on the engraved case back. This watch comes with the classic resin band and a unique additional strap with a built-in carabiner. Make use of the included tool and extra set of endlinks, and you can...

Win a Rolex Sky-Dweller while supporting hospitalized kids! Time+Tide
Rolex Sky-Dweller while supporting hospitalized Feb 17, 2023

Win a Rolex Sky-Dweller while supporting hospitalized kids!

Question: How does the average punter buy a new Rolex watch without paying way over the recommended retail price on the grey market? Answer: With extreme difficulty. In the watch community, this has become a common lament. For the average buyer, sourcing a Rolex at the recommended retail price can increasingly feel like mission impossible. … ContinuedThe post Win a Rolex Sky-Dweller while supporting hospitalized kids! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Frederique Constant Celebrates their 35th Anniversary and their Signature Complication with a New Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Celebrates their 35th Anniversary Feb 16, 2023

Frederique Constant Celebrates their 35th Anniversary and their Signature Complication with a New Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture

It’s hard to believe, but Frederique Constant celebrates their 35th anniversary this year. This is a brand that’s truly part of the old guard when it comes to the contemporary, affordable watch scene. Making the “nice Swiss watch” accessible to the masses was a big part of why the brand was founded, and over the course of their history the entire watch industry has changed multiple times over, currently finding itself in a healthy spot where more and better watches are finding their way onto the wrists of enthusiasts at a pace that couldn’t have have been imagined three decades ago. The line between “luxury” and “affordable” continues to shift, and there’s no doubt that Frederique Constant has played a role in those changes.  Specifically, Frederique Constant has broken new ground when it comes to making complicated watchmaking affordable. We all know about their excellent perpetual calendar, which they are still able to sell for a little less than $10,000 several years after its debut. But they also dabble in other historically significant and tech forward complications. Over the years we’ve seen everything from flyback chronographs to moon phases equipped watches, and of course their Slimline Monolithic with an ultra high frequency oscillator. But it could be argued that their signature complication, the one that the brand has leaned into the hardest and gained the most acclaim for, is the worldtimer. So it makes sense that for Frederique Constant...

Brand Video Spotlight – Keep Going Forward with Seiko Prospex Worn & Wound
Seiko Prospex Checking All Feb 16, 2023

Brand Video Spotlight – Keep Going Forward with Seiko Prospex

Checking All The Boxes with Seiko’s Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph Bask in the history of automatic chronographs with the Prospex Speedtimer. Celebrating Seiko’s first precision automatic chronographs, developed in the late 1960s for international sporting competitions, this watch is a modern piece of horological history-making. With updated technology, including Seiko’s proprietary 8R46 movement which includes a column wheel and vertical clutch mechanism allowing for smooth movement of the chronograph hand while providing longer wear and efficiency. Watch this video and be inspired at how a modern automatic chronograph can make you feel like you’re a part of history.   Click here to view on YouTube. Learn more about the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph The post Brand Video Spotlight – Keep Going Forward with Seiko Prospex appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Atelier de Chronométrie Debuts their First In-House Movement with the New AdC22 Worn & Wound
Feb 15, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Debuts their First In-House Movement with the New AdC22

Last month, Atelier de Chronometrie, the Spanish independent brand led by one time vintage watch dealer Santiago Martinez, began teasing something that could only be described as unexpected: a new movement. Atelier de Chronometrie had, in a very short period of time, built a name for themselves almost entirely on the basis of expertly restoring and luxuriously finishing classic vintage movements, and using them in thoughtfully designed watches inspired primarily by timepieces of the 1930s and 40s. The brand offers a high level of customization, with clients able to dial in little details as they see fit, effectively making each watch coming out of the atelier a piece unique, or very close to it. This was a niche that didn’t really exist before Atelier de Chronometrie, at least at the very high end, and they’ve absolutely owned it. Now, with the release of the AdC22 less than a month after that initial social media tease, a new caliber bearing the brand’s name has opened up all kinds of new possibilities for Atelier de Chronometrie’s future.  The new movement, dubbed the M284 and described as “in-house” by the brand, was developed in partnership with independent watchmaker Luca Soprana. The caliber has been designed to resemble classic hand wound calibers from the 1940s, both in appearance and function. The construction, featuring small bridges for the going train, a large plate with hand applied côtes de Genève, and an exposed balance beating at a vintage ap...

Zodiac and Huckberry Introduces a Wildly Capable LHD Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver with a GMT Hand and HEV Worn & Wound
Zodiac Feb 13, 2023

Zodiac and Huckberry Introduces a Wildly Capable LHD Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver with a GMT Hand and HEV

If you were tuning into our feed at the beginning of the year, we published an article where the entire Worn & Wound editorial team gave their predictions for what they thought would happen in the watch industry in 2023. Given the growing amount of watches with a GMT complication we saw released towards the latter part of the year, I started my portion of the article with a bit of an obvious take  – 2023 will be the Year of the GMT. And so far, it has been. I’ve written about six different GMT’s since we’ve crossed over into the new year and I don’t expect that to trend in the other direction any time soon. In addition to my soft ball of a prediction, I did “hope” to see more options with a slight change to the GMT format this year, where a dive watch design is put first, and then the travel component second. A Diver-GMT, if you will. Well it seems that Zodiac has gotten that memo. The latest addition to the Diver-GMT space is the Zodiac LHD Pro-Diver GMT. Zodiac has taken their core professional dive watch with the Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver, switched up the crown placement, added a fourth hand to track a second time zone, and added a helium escape valve for good measure. The Zodiac LHD Pro-Diver GMT is all business. Usually we’re used to seeing fun dial and bezel color combinations from the brand, but this new release is entirely the opposite. Aside from the splash of color from the orange accented GMT hand, water resistance rating on the dial, and the tri...

Editorial: An Appraisal of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Universelle SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile are Feb 13, 2023

Editorial: An Appraisal of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Universelle

Audemars Piguet recently launched more than a dozen new models and predictably it was the Royal Oaks that got the most attention. But the most impressive new release was unquestionably the Code 11.59 Universelle. It’s a grand complication that boasts multiple complications most cleverly executed, in a remarkably compact case – the size of the watch is an achievement in itself. Though the Universelle is positively slender for a grand complication, it’s still a large watch. But criticising the Universelle for its somewhat ungainly looks is to miss the point completely. Just like a mid-engine Ferrari will never be a roomy vehicle capable of conveying four adults in comfort, a grand complication will never be a svelte watch. Even Francois-Paul Journe, a legendary talent who has long specialised in slim complications, needs a lot of volume to contain his most complicated watch, the double-sided Astronomic Souveraine. Grand complications, or more specifically mega complications, like the Universelle, are never pretty. That’s simply a matter of necessity – the mechanical complexity inevitably results in an enormous case and confusing dial. The F.P. Journe Astronomic, Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, and Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile are all equally large and confusing. The Astronomic is the smallest of the lot and it’s still 44 mm by 13.7 mm. And the Grandmaster Chime is a titanic 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. I can confirm the Grandmaster Chime is titanic no matter ho...

In Conversation with Raynald Aeschlimann About the New Omega Speedmaster Super Racing Spirate Revolution
Omega Speedmaster Super Racing Spirate Feb 13, 2023

In Conversation with Raynald Aeschlimann About the New Omega Speedmaster Super Racing Spirate

Technical innovation has always been at the heart of Omega. From the Speedmaster being the first watch to be flight-qualified by NASA for manned space flight to the industrialisation of the co-axial escapement, Omega remains at the vanguard of pushing the boundaries of watchmaking. 10 years in the making, Omega’s new Spirate hairspring system takes […]

Citizen Promaster Dive (You Know the One) Gets Full Lume Dial Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Dive You Know Feb 10, 2023

Citizen Promaster Dive (You Know the One) Gets Full Lume Dial

I haven’t been shy about sharing my adoration for this particular Promaster Dive watch from Citizen. Zach Kazan and I wrote about our impressions as owners of the same variant of this watch, with a perfectly unsubtle blue camo dial, and it’s a watch we both come back to often. To me, Citizen is at their best when they lean into the slightly strange, and they’ve got a number of designs that qualify, including these wonderful Ecozilla “ashtray” watches recently released. If camo isn’t quite your thing (I don’t blame you), their latest take on this platform might be right up your alley. And if you are into camo, you’ll probably still like it as well. The latest Promaster Dive uses the same fabulous gunmetal titanium case, but pairs it with a full lume dial and a bright orange minute hand.  Lume dials are a tricky thing to pull off properly, but here it feels like a totally natural extension of the design of this watch. It feels right at home. The camo execution was funky enough to jive with the unusual case design, but the full lume feels like a more practical solution to bring a unique level of clarity and contrast to the watch as a whole. It takes a near novelty level watch to a supremely practical level of watch. Like the Aqualand JP2007-17W, the lume dial here is a light creamy green color that jumps off the black backdrop of the case and bezel. The hour plots are filled with lume of nearly the same color, but appear a bit brighter after a flash of light ...

INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer wants to become your frequent flyer Time+Tide
Feb 10, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer wants to become your frequent flyer

The Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer is their latest pilot’s watch. It features both GMT and chronograph complications. It’s a nice balance between sporty and dressy. We’ve shown a lot of love to Brellum’s Pandial series of watches in the past, but it’s been far too long since we’ve showcased their other capabilities. The new … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer wants to become your frequent flyer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: Iconic Chronographs & Jumping Hours Worn & Wound
Vulcain Chronograph Vulcain may be Feb 9, 2023

eBay Finds: Iconic Chronographs & Jumping Hours

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Bulova White Prince Jump Hour First up this week we have a really special one. This 1932 Bulova White Prince jump hour / direct read dress watch is truly rare, and this example is in superb condition. I used to collect these 1930’s Deco Bulovas and this has to be the nicest one I’ve ever seen. The hour, minute and seconds are shown on rotating discs through the viewports cut into the case. I mean, does it get any cooler than this?? The 26mm chrome plated case is in excellent condition and looks super sharp. Seller states the caliber 10AT movement has been serviced and runs well. The time discs look original and quite nice with some patina. These really don’t show up for sale all that often, especially in this condition. If this “jumps” out at you, don’t let it slip away. View auction here. Vintage Vulcain Chronograph Vulcain may be famous for their iconic alarm watches, but they also made a plethora of other models, including this simple classic two register chronograph. The silver dial is really clean and has nice big chono subdials. Large stick hands with lume lines in them make this one really easy to read. The case is chrome plated with a steel back, but there doesn’...

Hands On: Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Feb 9, 2023

Hands On: Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Having redesigned the Polo to suit contemporary tastes in 2016, Piaget now debuts most complicated watch in its sports watch line, the Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. With a steel case just 8.65 mm high, it’s dressed in the very current shade of dark green. Though the complication isn’t new for Piaget or even luxury-sports watches more broadly, the perpetual calendar takes the Polo into new territory as an upscale, complicated watch. The model was introduced in 1979 as a chunky watch with a geometric design rendered entirely in yellow gold, reflecting the popular style of the era. Today’s Polo bears little resemblance to its historical namesake and instead opts for a design in tune with today’s preference for sports watches in that aren’t round. Initial thoughts The new perpetual calendar is essentially the same proposition as its simpler brethren in the Polo line – a design and complication similar to more established luxury-sports watches, but at a more affordable price. So it has a patterned dial, cushion-shaped case, matching steel bracelet, and a retail price of US$58,500. That’s a reasonable ask considering its intrinsic features like finishing and complication.  On the other hand, the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5740/1G or recently launched Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 26586TI cost well into the six figures – but they are also more sophisticated mechanically and executed with much more refinement. In short,...

Review: the Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster Feb 8, 2023

Review: the Oris Big Crown Calibre 473

There’s a lot of talk among watch collectors of “signature watches.” Watches that essentially serve to define a brand, or even an entire category. The Omega Speedmaster, for example, is a perfect example of a signature watch. Can you even imagine Omega without it? You can’t – it’s integral to the whole operation. They have other collections, sure, but they live and die with the Speedmaster.  Does Oris have a signature watch? I walk by an Oris authorized dealer in my neighborhood just about every day, and there’s a giant decal on the side of their building prominently featuring an Oris Aquis. For as long as I can remember, this authorized dealer has had this kind of marketing in this specific place, always featuring an Aquis. Is the Aquis Oris’s signature watch? I think for many collectors it might be. It’s a modern tool watch (with an integrated bracelet, well before the hype) that has specs making it competitive with virtually any well known diver, but thanks to the aforementioned bracelet it has something unique about it that can only be Oris.  It’s possible that to an even wider swath of customers, the Divers 65 is the Oris signature watch. I can remember when this watch was first reissued in a modern context, and it was something of a phenomenon. It put Oris on the map for many enthusiasts entering the hobby at the beginning of a boom time for the entire industry, and remains a key watch in the vintage throwback category that virtually every brand...

The Accutron Astronaut GMT Makes its Return to Horology Relevancy with Re-Edition of “T” Model Worn & Wound
Accutron Astronaut GMT Makes Feb 7, 2023

The Accutron Astronaut GMT Makes its Return to Horology Relevancy with Re-Edition of “T” Model

Back in the days, when the market for an affordable GMT was incredibly sparse, I distinctly recall the Bulova Accutron Astronaut as being one of the potential vintage options to add to the collection. At the time, I was already attracted to the aesthetic of a 24 hour steel bezel on a black dial watch, and the pairing of its faded green markers, as well as the italicized Astronaut wordmark, made it all the more appealing. Sadly, the Astronaut never made its way into the watchbox. Since then however, we’ve seen Bulova release several Accutron models in the form of the Legacy Collection, Spaceview, and DNA. But despite popular reissued designs like the Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph, we have yet to see a re-edition of the Accutron Astronaut GMT … until today. The new Accutron Astronaut is based off of the original 1968 “T” model featuring a distinct 41mm saucer steel case and a short lug set that just reveal themselves under the bezel. From overhead, the bezel eclipses the entire case making you want to look sideways at the thing. Like literally, sideways. Doing so displays the slim midcase that then angles inwards towards the caseback. No battery hatch here, as the caseback sports a semicircle exhibition display akin to that of a window on a space shuttle, providing an opportunity to peer inside at the Astronaut’s Sellita SW330 GMT movement. Despite the name Accutron, where its latter syllable is derived from the word “electronic,” from the original model’s t...

[Video Review] Norqain Gets Adventurous With Wild One & Norteq Worn & Wound
Norqain Gets Adventurous Feb 6, 2023

[Video Review] Norqain Gets Adventurous With Wild One & Norteq

I see plenty of discussion around the idea of a GADA watch within the watch enthusiast space, that is the concept of a Go Anywhere, Do Anything watch. Of course, each of us has our own criteria for what the perfect GADA watch must have, but these are generally watches that do a good job of skirting between the boundaries of any specific genre. Ultimately, a watch is what we make of it; clearly not many of us are divers or pilots, yet many of us enjoy watches specifically ascribed to these realms. We’ve seen a growing trend of brands simply labeling their watches in broadly generic terms, like ‘active watch’ or ‘sport watch’ implying it can stand up to the rigors of more average human activities. More walks in the park or sledding with your kids and less diving to 300 meters or calculating fuel loads in an old war plane.  I say all this to set up the discussion around a new(ish) watch from Norqain called the Wild One, a watch which the brand describes as the “ultimate sports watch”. It’s got all the impressive specs you’d associate with modern dive or field watches, like a 300 meter depth rating and a chronometer rated movement, but it’s not being positioned explicitly as a dive watch, or a field watch. It’s a sports watch. For my lifestyle, a GADA watch closely resembles what I’d consider a sports watch, so this billing was good news to me. It should be easy to wear regardless of activity, able to put up with some light wear and tear, be legible, a...

Seiko Alpinist Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Feb 4, 2023

Seiko Alpinist Guide

History First introduced in 1961, the Seiko Alpinist was a significant milestone in the Japanese brand's history It was the first ‘Sports Watch’ for Seiko. Like all great watch designs, it was created with a purpose in mind. The Alpinist was geared up to take on the great outdoors with Japanese mountain climbers. It needed to be rugged and legible. In this story, we will aim to share the full Seiko Alpinist lineup (going back some!). And then finally, although we think you will be sold within the first paragraph or two - why you should consider one! Let’s get into it.  In 1961 we saw the first Alpinist, the Laurel. It is, in collecting circles, the holy grail Alpinist! Produced in black and cream dials, it was categorized by the now iconic arrow markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9. Later in 1963 saw the introduction of the Alpinist Champion 850, this Alpinist reference was instantly recognizable by its bold central lines which extended to the hour markers. A year later in 1964, it was time for the gold variation, the “85899” (interestingly it did not boast the central hour markings like the previous reference). Many, many years later in 1995, we were presented with the Red Alpinist, with the now legendary red writing at 6 o’clock and Arabic numerals at 12, 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10. The early 2000s saw the introduction of the Alpinist 8f56 which used the same inner bezel compass as the 1995 Prospex, and there was even a limited edition of 500 pieces in a blue dial made for SS...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Universelle SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 3, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Universelle

Undoubtedly the flagship of its recent new launches, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle is the brand’s most complicated wristwatch in recent years – or perhaps ever. A project that began in 2016, the uber-complication rooted in history: it is a tribute to L’Universelle, the grand complication pocket watch from 1899 made by AP for German watchmaker Union. But the watch simultaneously pushes the brand’s modern-day watchmaking to the limit, particularly in terms of miniaturising highly complex mechanisms. The Universelle is available in two guises, the open dial above and the solid dial pictured further up Officially one of the brand’s Research and Development timepieces – the model is also known as the RD#4 – the Universelle is an exercise in combining into a single wristwatch all the traditional mechanisms that constitute a grand complication, and then some – perpetual calendar, rattrapante chronograph with flyback, tourbillon, and grande et petite sonnerie with minute repeater. L’Universelle on display in the Audemars Piguet Museum Initial thoughts An assuming name that means little to anyone who doesn’t understand the historical inspiration, Universelle is a horological behemoth that captures AP’s industrial and mechanical capability. Though it has a highly modern design, the Universelle harks back to a bygone era of high watchmaking that prized highly complicated watches incorporating as many features as feasible into a (barely) wearable...

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Seiko SSK001 is the Best Affordable GMT Out There, But Will it Stand the Test of Time? Worn & Wound
Seiko SSK001 Feb 2, 2023

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Seiko SSK001 is the Best Affordable GMT Out There, But Will it Stand the Test of Time?

In watches, like all things in life, everything comes back full circle. My watch collecting journey has meandered through different types of watches, spanning all shapes and sizes. There was a time where my collection had ballooned to a number that my watch box couldn’t accommodate. More recently, it has shrunk to a number that I can count on one hand. Very manageable, even by watch enthusiast’s standards. But despite the watches of past and present, there will always be that one watch that started it all – the Seiko SKX. I’m not talking about the ubiquitous Seiko SKX 007. No, not at all. The watch that kicked off this wild journey within this hobby, and ultimately led me to typing these actual words for you to read at your leisure, was the Seiko SKX013. The Seiko SKX diver format, in a more compact wearing case, suited my preferences at the time. It’s the watch that opened Pandora’s box to all sorts of things in, and out of horology. From figuring out how to change out straps (from that rattley jubilee) and learning about the history of the dive watch, to actually getting me into the sport of surfing. Through thick and thin, the SKX013 has always taken up a spot in the quiver. My beloved Seiko SKX013 (Left) & my brand new Seiko SSK001 GMT (Right) Side By Side $475 [VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Seiko SSK001 is the Best Affordable GMT Out There, But Will it Stand the Test of Time? Case Stainless Steel Movement Caliber 4R34 Dial Black Lume LumiBrite Lens Hardlex ...

Grand Seiko’s Latest Limited Edition is a Urushi Lacquered Version of the “First” with a Gold Touch Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Latest Limited Edition Jan 31, 2023

Grand Seiko’s Latest Limited Edition is a Urushi Lacquered Version of the “First” with a Gold Touch

Grand Seiko has unveiled a new limited edition paying tribute to their very first watch, released in 1960. The occasion, of course, is the celebration of Seiko’s 110th anniversary, for which the traditional gift is allegedly something cast in Brilliant Hard Titanium. Ok, that might not actually be true. But the new SBGW295 makes tasteful use of Grand Seiko’s signature lightweight case metal while also incorporating some traditional Japanese craft in a way that Seiko and Grand Seiko have become known for.  Let’s take a look at the big picture first and state the obvious right away: this isn’t exactly new ground for Grand Seiko. They’ve returned to the design of the “First” (an on-the-nose nickname for an initial release if there ever was one) a number of times over the years. They’ve even made a version of the First in titanium, as an anniversary model, just three years ago. You would be forgiven for a rolling of the eyes if you remember that release and think to yourself that perhaps Grand Seiko should be trying something new. The new SBGW295 is, like many new Grand Seikos, an iteration on something that came before with only small changes. That’s a fair critique. But in a vacuum, the SBGW295 has a certain undeniable appeal.  That comes largely from the gorgeous black dial, which has been made using an Urushi lacquer process that incorporates several layers of lacquer for a dial with real depth and a handmade quality. Use of this particular type of lacq...

[VIDEO] The Freak Gets an Edit, The Curious Ulysse Nardin Freak X Reviewed Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Reviewed Ulysse Jan 30, 2023

[VIDEO] The Freak Gets an Edit, The Curious Ulysse Nardin Freak X Reviewed

Ulysse Nardin is a peculiar brand. They have long been at the forefront of horological innovation, from marine chronometers in the 19th century, to creating stuff like DIAMonSIL in the 21st. However, they lack a singular, cohesive aesthetic that’s coalesced in broader culture in the same way watches like the Speedmaster, Submariner, or Royal Oak have. Except for a watch called the Freak, that is. A concept first released upon the world in 2001, the Freak was as impressive technologically as it was shocking to behold. With a movement that pivoted on itself to display the time, it was (and remains) daring, innovative, and downright novel. But, it never quite enjoyed a ‘hip status’ in the same way other exotic watches from the likes of MB&F; or Urwerk have since. This is likely due to a few reasons, but with the release of the Freak X in 2019, Ulysse Nardin is a whole lot closer. The Freak is a watch that has always commanded attention, both technically and visually speaking. The concept placed the gear train atop the mainspring, within a carousel that itself served as the minute hand. There was no dial to speak of, but rather a rotating plate containing the hour hand underpinning the structure. Winding and setting was managed via the deeply scalloped, somewhat steampunk-ish bezel unit. The launch of the Freak also marked the very first appearance of silicon within a watch movement, something the brand has been a pioneer of developing. This is a dramatic watch to behold ...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Begins Selling Vintage Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Cartier Jan 29, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Begins Selling Vintage Watches

Buying a vintage watch can be daunting, especially for the beginner. Some watch brands offer a solution: restoring and selling their own vintage watches. The latest to enter this area is Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC). As part of its 190th anniversary debuts, JLC announces The Collectibles, a curated selection of vintage timepieces that have been restored by its watchmakers and certified by the brand. It offers enthusiasts the opportunity to own vetted examples of iconic vintage models like the Reverso.  A Shark Deep Sea chronograph from 1959 Initial thoughts As a collector of vintage watches, such programmes are a welcome development. I like it when brands take steps to preserve their heritage with such vintage offerings, though it was a surprise when JLC announced this. When it comes to vintage watches, JLC has always been under the radar, so its vintage watches have never quite enjoyed the levels of hype enjoyed by its peers. With The Collectibles, JLC seems to be trying to change that. Granted, this concept has been done before by brands like Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, and Longines. Still, it will be interesting to see if and how The Collectibles develops the market for vintage JLC watches. A 1946 triple calendar in steel Admittedly, such factory-vetted timepieces are priced at a (steep) premium, but they come with a peace of mind, especially since scholarship about the brand is relatively nascent (perhaps in part due to the relative affordability of vintage JLC). On t...