Watch brandsWatch wikiWatch videosVariousWatch calendarSaved articles
PopularRolexOmegaPatek PhilippeAudemars PiguetTudorGrand SeikoCartierSeikoIWCTAG HeuerBreitlingJaeger-LeCoultreA. Lange & SohneZenith

Results for Swiss vs Japanese Watchmaking

4,409 articles · 686 videos found · page 55 of 170

Insight: Daniels’ Co-Axial Escapement, an Evolution of the Fasoldt Chronometer SJX Watches
Omega Feb 21, 2023

Insight: Daniels’ Co-Axial Escapement, an Evolution of the Fasoldt Chronometer

In the quest for precision chronometry in a mechanical watch, perhaps no other component is as crucial as the escapement – often consisting of an escape wheel and lever that engage with the oscillating organ. The history of watchmaking recounts many an attempt at inventing a better-performing escapement, with some attempts naturally more successful than others. By the 20th century, the watch industry had settled upon the Swiss lever escapement, which has proven itself to be a reasonably solid performer and crucially, one fit for mass production. However, in the latter decades of the century, one English watchmaker attempted to challenge the industry status quo. In 1974, George Daniels invented the “co-axial escapement”, a seemingly novel and practical escapement of his own design that was conceived as an functionally superior alternative to the Swiss lever escapement. Daniels’ invention fulfilled his ambition, at least in part, when it was sold to Omega and then successfully industrialised starting in 1999; today it is found in hundreds of thousands of movements that Omega produces each year. The latest iteration of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is kitted out with the co-axial escapement With the merits of the co-axial escapement having been proven in part by its large-scale adoption, my aim here is not to examine its intrinsic qualities, but rather delve into its development. Specifically I will explore the fact that the co-axial escapement might not be an ent...

VIDEO: Five of our favourite Vacheron Constantin releases of 2022 Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin releases Jan 29, 2023

VIDEO: Five of our favourite Vacheron Constantin releases of 2022

Some may refer to Vacheron Constantin as the third member of the Swiss holy trinity of watchmaking. But after an incredibly strong showing last year, Vacheron may be the one you really need to explore. Here are five of our favourite releases from Vacheron Constantin in 2022.     First up, is the brand’s irrefutable … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Five of our favourite Vacheron Constantin releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Defy Watch Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Jan 21, 2023

Zenith Defy Watch Guide

Swiss watch manufacture Zenith traces its roots to 1865, when it was founded in the village of Le Locle by precocious 22-year-old watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot. As one of the first watchmaking maisons to integrate all aspects of the watchmaking process under one roof, from case manufacturing to movement production to final casing and assembly, Zenith has long prided itself on its quest for timekeeping precision. The company has earned a record number of chronometry prizes over the years, and its most influential contribution to watchmaking history is its El Primero chronograph caliber, released in 1969. (Learn more about El Primero here.) In that same pivotal year, Zenith also released an avant-garde wristwatch series called Defy, whose bold, edgy design proved to be ahead of its time, and found its expression in the now-legendary Ref. A3642.  The Original Defy (1969) That watch was nicknamed the “coffre-fort,” a French term translating to “bank vault” or “safe,” a reference to its robustly angular, octagonal case, 14-sided bezel, and high-for-the-time water resistance of 300 meters, secured by its crown, caseback, and mineral crystal, all of which screwed securely into the case. Its “ladder-style” bracelet from legendary chainmaker Gay Frères also made the original reference notable. The Defy was positioned as Zenith’s toughest watch, featured in an advertisement in which six of the watches were strapped to the spokes of a motorcycle in a speed test a...

VIDEO: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQuest II Ceramic is a beast of a dive watch – and that’s a good thing Time+Tide
Dec 28, 2022

VIDEO: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQuest II Ceramic is a beast of a dive watch – and that’s a good thing

Ball may not be the most recognisable name in Swiss watchmaking, but their heritage goes all the way back to 1891, and the heyday of railroad timers. In fact, due to an Ohio railroad collision (the Great Kipton Train Wreck), founder Webb C. Ball, a well-known jeweler, instituted a railroad timekeeping standard to prevent future … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQuest II Ceramic is a beast of a dive watch – and that’s a good thing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Prospex SPB333, “White Birch” for Less SJX Watches
Grand Seiko White Birch” Initial thoughts Dec 20, 2022

Seiko Introduces the Prospex SPB333, “White Birch” for Less

As is its habit, Seiko is marking the 110th anniversary of its first-ever wristwatch with a series of limited editions starting with the recent Presage SBP359. Now the Japanese watchmaker unveils the Prospex Save the Ocean “Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary” based on its “turtle” dive watch but featuring a patterned dial reminiscent of the popular Grand Seiko “White Birch”. Initial thoughts When Seiko first announced limited editions for the 110th anniversary, I was expecting a reissue of the original Laurel wristwatch, which turned out to be spot on. But as a longtime fan of Seiko dive watches, I was hoping for something based on the “Turtle” for the occasion. Well, I am happy to say that the SPB333 does not disappoint. Though it is easily recognisable as a “Turtle”, it is clear that thought went into the styling. Its designers used the classic diver as a template for gentle experimentation and the result certainly delivers. The dial is beautiful and certainly fancier than that on the average Seiko diver. Though ostensibly inspired by glaciers, the textured dial certainly brings to mind the popular “White Birch” pattern found on several Grand Seiko models. This level of dial decoration on a “tool” watch places the SPB333 on my Christmas wish list. Pattern aside, I do have some bones to pick with the dial design, specifically the date window between four and five o’clock. I find date windows on Seiko divers are far better in the cust...

HANDS-ON: The BA111OD Chapter 4.1 T.V.D. is the latest watch from a young brand with big ideas Time+Tide
Dec 16, 2022

HANDS-ON: The BA111OD Chapter 4.1 T.V.D. is the latest watch from a young brand with big ideas

The wristwatch hobby is often full of lore and ritual, with prescribed traditions and a general consensus that old age legitimises worth. BA111OD are an incredibly young brand having been started in 2019, which would ordinarily lose them a chunk of customers were it not for their relentless challenging of misconceptions about Swiss watchmaking. The … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The BA111OD Chapter 4.1 T.V.D. is the latest watch from a young brand with big ideas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hanhart 417 ES Panda Flyback Chronographs offer even better value. Time+Tide
Nov 26, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Hanhart 417 ES Panda Flyback Chronographs offer even better value.

There is no shortage of vintage-inspired chronographs on the market. Especially coming from established Swiss brands that have dug through their vast catalogues to recreate iconic models. There has also been a re-emergence of fine German watchmaking in the past few years. Hanhart is one of the best representatives of this movement. The brand made … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hanhart 417 ES Panda Flyback Chronographs offer even better value. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The GPHG-winning CIGA Design Blue Planet inducted into Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire Time+Tide
Oct 29, 2022

The GPHG-winning CIGA Design Blue Planet inducted into Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire

Chinese watchmaking has been getting an increasing amount of recognition, and deservedly so, with CIGA Design seemingly leading this expansion. First being awarded the Challenge Watch Prize at the 2021 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the brand has once again been recognised for their achievements, this time by another important Swiss institution, … ContinuedThe post The GPHG-winning CIGA Design Blue Planet inducted into Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph is an elevated diver that stands out from the pack Time+Tide
Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph Sep 29, 2022

VIDEO: The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph is an elevated diver that stands out from the pack

When we think of dive watches, our minds typically wander to Swiss and Japanese creations. But do not sleep on the Germans, they definitely know their way around a dive watch as well. Glashütte Original caught the attention of sports watch enthusiasts looking for something different when they unveiled their SeaQ diver, a revival of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph is an elevated diver that stands out from the pack appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces the Master Collection 190th Anniversary SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Sep 14, 2022

Longines Introduces the Master Collection 190th Anniversary

While it isn’t common knowledge, Longines now 190 years old, making it the longest-established of the seven biggest brands in Swiss watchmaking, besting even its sister company Omega. Historically known for its top-quality chronographs and time-only chronometers, Longines has unsurprisingly delved into its archives to mark the anniversary. The brand has just taken the wraps off the Master Collection 190th Anniversary, a three-hand wristwatch with an unusually elaborate dial for a Longines. And as expected for a commemorative model, it is available not only as a regular production model in steel, but also also a pricier limited edition in yellow or rose gold. The steel version with blued steel hands is an affordable US$2,400 Initial thoughts With compact proportions and an elegantly detailed dial, the Master 190th Anniversary blends various elements drawn from watches of the mid 20th century, giving it an easy appeal. That said, the aesthetics of the Master anniversary are not exactly original – it does bring to mind a variety of other watches. While it’s definitely a vintage-style watch, the Master anniversary is not a reissue – a feat for Longines, a brand that already has several dozen reissues in its catalogue. I find the dial of the new Master more attractive than most of the actual remakes in Longines’ Heritage collection. Those watches typically have good fit and finish, but the anniversary Master is a marked improvement and enhanced by flourishes lik...

VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Sep 11, 2022

VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty

The Tambour is Louis Vuitton’s most well-known watch design.  The fashion mega-brand has been slowly but surely establishing itself as a top-tier watchmaker since establishing Le Fabrique Du Temps, their dedicated watch manufacture, in 2014. Since then, several of Louis Vuitton’s watches have earned the Geneva Seal, a rarified standard of Swiss watchmaking reserved for … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Yosuke Sekiguchi Primevère Prototype SJX Watches
Jul 21, 2022

Up Close: Yosuke Sekiguchi Primevère Prototype

Though born in Japan, Yosuke Sekiguchi is steeped in the tradition of Swiss watchmaking. He moved first to France and then Switzerland some two decades ago, and is today fluent in French and skilled at watchmaking. After a career at complications specialists like Claret and La Joux-Perret, Mr Sekiguchi established his own brand in 2020 with the goal of building a historically-inspired timepiece of extremely high quality. The concept is a familiar one that has been interpreted in various ways by others, but Mr Sekiguchi arguably succeeds far better in both paying tribute to the historical inspiration and achieving impressive, artisanal quality. His first watch is the Primevère, which made its debut just earlier this year. It is an elegantly designed and clearly rooted in 19th century pocket watches, but also novel in several ways, reflecting Mr Sekiguchi’s unusual approach to the concept. Amongst other things, it is robustly constructed and larger than such wristwatches typically are. And while the movement resembles its vintage inspiration, it is fabricated and decorated in a finer, more artisanal manner than the 19th century original. NB: The Primevère pictured here is the first complete prototype with a gold-plated case, so it still reveals several obvious imperfections in the movement decoration. Mr Sekiguchi promises the the final product will be perfectly finished and I believe that it will be. Initial thoughts Although it appears to be a pocket watch reproducti...

Business News: Jean-Claude Biver Joins Norqain Board SJX Watches
Breitling Jun 8, 2022

Business News: Jean-Claude Biver Joins Norqain Board

Founded by a duo who each hail from families long involved in Swiss watchmaking, Norqain is only four years old but has managed to firmly establish its identity as a maker of affordable sports watches. The brand is now helmed by young team with an average age of 35 – now the average is being nudged upwards by the addition of Jean-Claude Biver to Norqain’s board. “My role… allows me to be associated with an exciting brand in an essential price-point for the Swiss watch industry,” says Mr Biver in the announcement of his appointment, “It is very important to have strong Swiss independent brands in different price segments and Norqain offers an exciting challenge to the status quo”. Norqain remains a small brand, but stands out for its use of calibres made by Kenissi, the movement manufacturer majority owned by Tudor and minority owned by Chanel. Perhaps thanks to the strong industrial base of both its owners, Kenissi’s movements are amongst the best in of the price-performance ratio. The brand’s ability to call on a supplier like Kenissi is due in part to its founders, who were born into the industry. Norqain’s lead founder is Ben Küffer, whose father, Marc, once ran Roventa Henex, the private-label watches that is perhaps the biggest of its kind in Switzerland. Another of Norqain’s founders is Ted Schneider, a member of the family that once owned Breitling. Notably, the chief executive of Kenissi is Jean-Paul Girardin, who held the top job at Breitli...

HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover Time+Tide
Breguet Blue makeover Tradition May 26, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover

Tradition is a buzzword in Swiss watchmaking as what we see manufactured today is typically the result of centuries of brand heritage. In the modern era, many novelties are created through age-old techniques, but with design codes and constructions that, perhaps, speak more to the sensibilities of today. Breguet, however, in their Tradition line really … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton Deployant
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton DEPLOYANT May 23, 2022

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton

Vacheron Constantin has had a blast at Watches & Wonder 2022, releasing a whole gamut of watches that reminds us why the luxury Swiss watchmaking Maison is known as the “grand dame of watchmaking”. From complicated and artistically stunning Les Cabinotiers pieces, to the faithful reissue of the legendary Ref. 222 sports watch that’s beenRead More

IN-DEPTH: The Doxa Army makes a welcome return to active duty Time+Tide
Doxa Army makes Apr 27, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The Doxa Army makes a welcome return to active duty

When researching rare vintage watches, there is usually a wide pool of resources. The same meticulous qualities that make the Swiss so good at watchmaking tend to make them even better at keeping records, which is partly why we still know so much about Doxa’s most famous 1967 releases, the SUB 300 and SUB 300T. … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Doxa Army makes a welcome return to active duty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Einstein’s mistress who he gave his Longines to was actually a Russian spy” – A video interview with Longines CEO Matthias Breschan Time+Tide
Longines Dec 18, 2021

“Einstein’s mistress who he gave his Longines to was actually a Russian spy” – A video interview with Longines CEO Matthias Breschan

When Matthias Breschan speaks you could swear that he’d founded Longines 189 years ago, such is the passion that the Austrian CEO has for the brand. Having taken the reins of the Swiss powerhouse in July 2020, Matthias is no stranger to both heritage and modern watchmaking. He joined the Swatch Group in 1996, working … ContinuedThe post “Einstein’s mistress who he gave his Longines to was actually a Russian spy” – A video interview with Longines CEO Matthias Breschan appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS ON: The Baume & Mercier Riviera delivers 70s style on an integrated bracelet Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Nov 17, 2021

HANDS ON: The Baume & Mercier Riviera delivers 70s style on an integrated bracelet

If you’re going to draw inspiration from anything, the French Riviera is as good as it gets. Baume & Mercier’s Riviera line stems from the trauma of the 1970s, when Swiss watchmaking was under fire from the quartz uprising and adaptation was pivotal. Among the early brands to emerge with their heads held high were … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Baume & Mercier Riviera delivers 70s style on an integrated bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch No. 1 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nov 2, 2021

Up Close: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch No. 1

Widely regarded as important, the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch was a landmark when it was unveiled in 1992. The first wristwatch to incorporate a grande et petite sonnerie, widely regarded as the pinnacle of complications, the Grande Sonnerie is indeed a feat of miniaturisation, construction, and finishing. And now the very first example is slated to go under the hammer at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction. Initial thoughts Originally conceived as a homage of early 20th century Swiss watchmaking – the very sort of watches Mr Dufour worked on early in his career – the Grande Sonnerie revered today for many reasons, but it really is all about two accomplishments. The wristwatch (left), and its pocket watch counterpart One is miniaturisation – this was the first ever wristwatch grande sonnerie. Prior examples were all pocket watches and correspondingly large. And the second, arguably more important quality, is its movement finishing. Mr Dufour decorated each component of the movement exceedingly well. So well, in fact, that this is arguably better finished than even the finest examples of grande sonnerie pocket watches made by brands like Patek Philippe. In the metal the Grande Sonnerie wristwatch is eminently classical, and also fairly large at 41 mm in diameter. In fact, when it premiered in 1992 the Grande Sonnerie would have been massive – the typical men’s dress watch was barely 35 mm then. The Grande Sonnerie is almost a pocket watch with lugs...

HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must Collection offers classic design at an accessible price Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Must Collection offers Oct 24, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must Collection offers classic design at an accessible price

The quartz crisis is often spoken about with abject horror, and for good reason. Japanese quartz watches were more accurate, reliable, and cheaper than Swiss mechanicals, so why would anyone buy an old-fashioned and outdated piece of technology? Given that Switzerland controlled over half of the world’s mechanical watch industry after the second world war, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Cartier Tank Must Collection offers classic design at an accessible price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Watches Owned by Eric Clapton and Hiroshi Fujiwara at Sotheby’s SJX Watches
Patek Philippe chronographs commissioned Sep 29, 2021

Highlights: Watches Owned by Eric Clapton and Hiroshi Fujiwara at Sotheby’s

Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong auction is a major event – 266 lots is sizeable – but boasts a surprising lineup of historically significant watches in a variety of genres, from establishment brands to independent watchmaking (including a dozen F.P. Journe), and even museum-quality, enamelled automata. Now we turn to an unusual group of watches from the collections of two well-known watch collectors: musician Eric Clapton and Japanese streetwear guru Hiroshi Fujiwara (who last year designed a watch for TAG Heuer). The all important name on the certificate The ex-Clapton watches have been consigned by the current owners, who number just two. The first consigned all the Rolex sports watches, which he bought direct from Mr Clapton. And the second is a prominent collector from the Southern Hemisphere who consigned the trio of custom-dial Patek Philippe chronographs commissioned by Mr Clapton, a set of watches the owner accumulated primarily at auction. On the other hand, the watches from Mr Fujiwara’s collection come from the man himself. Mr Fujiwara consigned three watches, including a matched pair of ref. 5970 with “Tiffany” dials. We round up eight highlights from these celebrity-owned offerings. The full catalogue and sale registration are available on Sothebys.com. The ex-Clapton Often spotted wearing notable watches, modern and vintage, Eric Clapton has long been known to be a watch aficionado (and also an accomplished collector of Ferrari). Mr Clapton has ...

Bulgari’s pivot to the Roma at Geneva Watch Days reveals they’re not just the Finissimo Show Time+Tide
Bulgari s pivot Aug 31, 2021

Bulgari’s pivot to the Roma at Geneva Watch Days reveals they’re not just the Finissimo Show

Question: has any watch brand evolved as much as Bulgari in the last decade? In 2011, the company’s watchmaking design division was transplanted from Rome to Neuchâtel in Switzerland in a sign of the brand’s horological intent. It’s proved to be wildly fruitful, too, as Italian style has merged with Swiss precision in a succession … ContinuedThe post Bulgari’s pivot to the Roma at Geneva Watch Days reveals they’re not just the Finissimo Show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RAKETA “BAIKONUR” Review WatchAdvice
Raketa Aug 6, 2021

RAKETA “BAIKONUR” Review

It’s the dawn of the new space age. Over the past 10 days, we have had two separate billionaires venturing into space in their very own spacecraft. With Elon Musk also firmly in the race (albeit not in his own ship… yet), it’s quite apt that we look at another aspect of the space age… as in, what will the space tourists wear on their wrist… in space??? When we think about mechanical watches, Swiss and Japanese watches usually come to mind. Perhaps followed closely by German watches. What about Russian? They pop up in a watch conversation perhaps as many times as humans have been into space. (Although given recent developments, the numbers might grow in favour of humans in space…) However, the Russians did have a thriving watch industry and whatever your viewpoints are political, you cannot ignore the fact that there are many interesting and fascinating Russian watches available today. Some of them were even developed with space travel in mind. Introduced in 1961, named in honour of Yuri Gagarin’s first manned flight to outer space on the Vostok 1, Raketa (Russian for “Rocket”) is perhaps one of the better known Russian watch companies. In fact, they are a true Manufacture in the sense that not only do they make their own movements, they also produce their own hairsprings, meaning they don’t need to rely on Swiss or Japanese supplies for this crucial part. One of the main points of difference is the “secret Soviet alloy” used to produce the hairsprin...