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Molnar Fabry Introduces the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jan 16, 2023

Molnar Fabry Introduces the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater

Founded by a duo who trained as jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in transforming old pocket watch movements and installing them in custom-made wristwatches. Based in Slovakia, Molnar Fabry recently completed its third minute-repeating wristwatch, the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater. The Royal Symphony is powered by a movement from a 1910 pocket watch made by Haas Neveux & Cie., a Geneva-based watch brand known for its high-quality movements that active from the mid-19th century to the 1920s. In typical Molnar Fabry style, the movement was entirely reworked, not only to restore its mechanical function, but also entirely decorated to a high level that includes engraving on the bridges. Initial thoughts Each watch made by Molnar Fabry is unique and mostly made according to the client’s specifications since most are made to order. As a result, the brand’s house style covers a diverse aesthetic – it is certainly not for everyone – but the quality of work is always impressive. Being jewellers, the brand’s founders apply the same artisanal, manual techniques used in producing jewellery to their watches. Even in photos the artisanal nature of the work is apparent, ranging from the movement decoration to the hand engraving on the case back. However, Molnar Fabry’s work on the movement is primarily decorative rather than mechanical. As a result, the Haas Neveux calibre still has a balance staff without shock protection. That’s like a non-issue in a watch like the Roy...

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph What Jan 15, 2023

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph

What comes to mind when you think of Louis Vuitton? Is it leather bags and wallets? Cream coloured trim? Or maybe a set of high-end luggage for travelling around the world? What if I told you what you should be thinking of is a watch collection with an iconic and flexible design? That’s what we … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: Seiko 62MAS modern interpretation Seiko SLA065 Deployant
Seiko 62MAS modern interpretation Seiko Jan 14, 2023

New: Seiko 62MAS modern interpretation Seiko SLA065

The SLA065 is comfortable on the wrist and fits well despite its relatively tall 13.1mm thickness. It is now issued in a larger 41mm case instead of the 39mm case in the SLA017 reissue. The watch is water resistant to 200 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear. Overall, the Seiko Prospex SLA065 is a great choice for anyone looking for a fun daily beater. The combination of high-quality case finish and craftsmanship, along with the mechanical movement, make the new 62MAS reissue a standout choice. The watch is limited to 1300 pieces.

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Jan 13, 2023

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Guide

Japan’s Grand Seiko has become, in a relatively short span of time, one of the world’s most prestigious and collectible high-luxury watchmakers, competing for connoisseur attention and dollars with well-established maisons from Switzerland and Germany. And while its success is definitely a 21st century phenomenon, Grand Seiko is not really a “new brand” in the strictest sense. The first Grand Seiko watch (below) debuted all the way back in 1960, part of the much larger product portfolio of Japanese watchmaking giant Seiko, which was founded in 1881 and achieved its worldwide fame by embracing the mass market with timepieces at accessible prices with wide distribution. The Grand Seiko, by contrast, was positioned as the megabrand’s exclusive “King of Watches,” with standards of accuracy, beauty, durability, and legibility that could meet or surpass its Swiss competitors. Until 2010, it was also Japan’s best-kept horological secret, not exported to markets outside the country. Seven years after its international expansion, having cultivated a loyal and avid audience worldwide, an entirely new and distinct customer base apart from mainline Seiko’s, Grand Seiko firmly established itself as an independent brand - albeit one still intrinsically tied to its parent company through shared history and technology. Among those technologies is an innovative type of watch movement that was perfected right before the turn of the 21st Century and remains the exclusiv...

Grand Seiko’s First Limited Editions of 2023 Celebrate the 25th Anniversary of the 9S Caliber Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s First Limited Editions Jan 12, 2023

Grand Seiko’s First Limited Editions of 2023 Celebrate the 25th Anniversary of the 9S Caliber

It’s an often repeated mantra around here: every year is an anniversary year. And if a watch brand is going to be successful in today’s hyper competitive market where, frankly, a lot of brands are offering products that are remarkably similar to one another, they need to differentiate themselves. And looking at a calendar, and figuring out how many years it’s been since “X” accomplishment or “Y” watch was first released is (usually) a decent runway for explaining what makes you special. To that end, Grand Seiko is embarking on what will apparently be a year of celebrating the 25th anniversary of the Caliber 9S, a movement which has become foundational to Grand Seiko in the decades since its debut.  The Caliber 9S has become a broad family of movements over the years, as Grand Seiko has continuously refined the caliber, including adding GMT functionality. Grand Seiko has used the 9S movements as a platform for their MEMS engineering techniques, which allow for insanely tight tolerances in movement making for certain key components, and you could probably argue that 9S movements represent the most traditional watchmaking currently practiced by the brand. Today, 9S movements are universally known to be reliable and rock solid high frequency calibers that often perform even better than the specs would indicate. Most recently, the 9S served as the springboard for the creation of Grand Seiko’s next generation Hi-Beat movement, the 9SA5.  While it might not be t...

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline 36 mm SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jan 12, 2023

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline 36 mm

In 1971, Zenith introduced the Defy, a steel sports watch with an octagonal case and tetradecagonal bezel that was the inspiration for the Defy Skyline, a simple three-hander in steel with an integrated bracelet. Today, the brand has updated the Skyline with a smaller case of 36 mm and three new dial colours. While its design is nearly identical to its larger sibling, the reduced size of the new Skyline makes it more wearable. Initial thoughts The highlight of the Defy Skyline is its compact, 36 mm size. For someone like me who leans towards classic proportions and prefers smaller watches, the size is a plus while also making it more wearable. Along with the size, the clean, simple design is also versatile enough for both genders. And the option of a diamond-set model and bright dial colours certainly elevate its appeal for a wider audience. At US$8,500 for the standard model and 50% more for the diamond-set variant, it is priced competitively against comparable sports watches. And while it might not have all the bells and whistles of some of Zenith’s signature chronograph offerings, it’s easy to like for someone looking for a straightforward sports watch with an in-house movement. More colours and a compact size While the original Defy Skyline was 41 mm, the new version is considerably smaller. In spite of its reduced size, the case still retains the distinctive octagonal form with a brushed finish and matching bracelet. But it is equipped with a strap-change mechan...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions Time+Tide
Jan 9, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions

As business ventures, microbrands can sometimes seem a little bit soulless. All it takes is one person with some starting capital and a catalogue of parts to put together an attractive watch that offers good value for money, but that formula is becoming harder and harder to replicate for watch enthusiasts whose collections are beginning … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Canopy Wake One is an affordable luxury diver with Goldilocks dimensions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic Time+Tide
Blancpain s Fifty Fathoms It’s Jan 8, 2023

The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic

In a space where so much history has gone before, it’s nigh impossible to create a timepiece that’s totally unique. For example, just about any dive watch you can name shares at least some DNA with the Rolex Submariner or Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms. It’s called classic rock for a reason, and for every Omega Speedmaster, … ContinuedThe post The F.P.Journe Chronometre Bleu is a retro-futuristic classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

30 Best Mechanical Watches Under $500 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 6, 2023

30 Best Mechanical Watches Under $500

As new enthusiasts dip their toes in the waters of the watch world, it’s easy for them to become mired in watch-specific terminology that, while second nature to seasoned nerds, can prove challenging for anyone less experienced. Understanding the specific nature of the type of movement powering a watch is an excellent example of an area in which a little bit of research goes a long way in elevating your knowledge base and helping you to make an informed purchasing decision. Terms like quartz, mechanical, automatic, manual, and hand-winding are essential basic knowledge for anyone looking to bring their understanding of watches to the next level or purchase a new piece. In this article, we’ll take a look at some of the most prominent types of mechanical movement types on the market. First, we’ll create a high-level primer on how the most popular types of watch movements operate before digging into a list of some of the best options on the more attainable end of the spectrum for each respective movement type. To begin, let’s tackle the term “mechanical” as it relates to watches. In the modern watch world, the vast majority of watches fall into two major subsets. The first is quartz, which utilizes power from an installed battery to power a small circuit that measures timekeeping by way of an oscillating quartz crystal, shaped like a tiny tuning fork, which vibrates at exactly 32,768 per second, allowing for an impressively high level of accuracy. Quartz calibe...

The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 – Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Zenith Jan 6, 2023

The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 – Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith

This past year was quite a journey for my collection, with new additions and trades – as I am known for every now and again. While I have been bad about it the last few months, with consecutive new watch addition honeymoon periods, typically I try to avoid wearing the same watch two days in … ContinuedThe post The three watches Zach wore most in 2022 – Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The three watches Buffy wore most in 2022: Seiko, Citizen and Omega Time+Tide
Citizen Jan 4, 2023

The three watches Buffy wore most in 2022: Seiko, Citizen and Omega

While the new year is often a time that enthusiasts admire how their collection has grown, mine drastically shrunk last year. After I sold my favourite watch in January for a variety of reasons, as discussed in this article, I was left re-evaluating my other watches alongside my priorities. As of now, my collection consists … ContinuedThe post The three watches Buffy wore most in 2022: Seiko, Citizen and Omega appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What is so special about the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1? Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Jan 2, 2023

What is so special about the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1?

Two dive watches have long battled for the title of the original diver’s watch: the Rolex Submariner and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Technicalities can drag this debate into murky deep waters, but irrefutably the pair are the founding blueprints of what we all expect from a dive watch. Born in 1953, the Fifty Fathoms has … ContinuedThe post What is so special about the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Baltic Aquascaphe continues to sell out on a regular basis. Here’s why… Time+Tide
Blancpain s … ContinuedThe post Jan 1, 2023

The Baltic Aquascaphe continues to sell out on a regular basis. Here’s why…

Ah, the French. So stylish, yet so understated. I’m generalising, of course, but if you were ever searching for a watch with a vintage elegance that whispers, but never shouts, France’s Baltic has found their voice. Their Aquascaphe diver is pure mid-century perfection, familiar without ever seeming blatantly derivative. Oh, you’ll catch little glimpses of Blancpain’s … ContinuedThe post The Baltic Aquascaphe continues to sell out on a regular basis. Here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The All-White Stealth Unimatic x Revolution & The Rake Modello Uno GMT “Arctic Fox” Revolution
Unimatic Dec 28, 2022

The All-White Stealth Unimatic x Revolution & The Rake Modello Uno GMT “Arctic Fox”

Since 2015, Unimatic has become one of the most successful upstarts in the loosely defined microbrand category. Founders Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato have generated a true cult following for their minimalist aesthetic that captures the essence of particular sports watch designs, and in the process creates archetypes for each of their collections. They also […]

Up Close With the Unimatic x Revolution & The Rake Modello Uno GMT “Arctic Fox” Revolution
Unimatic Dec 28, 2022

Up Close With the Unimatic x Revolution & The Rake Modello Uno GMT “Arctic Fox”

Take a closer look at the U1 GMT in an all-white Cerakote coating with stonewashed finishing. Every single watch is unique and slightly different from other pieces due to the random wear patterns created during the hand-finished process, giving it a distinctive feel. For maximum legibility, the watch features a 24-hour matte aluminum bezel, black-tipped […]

HANDS-ON: The CODE41 Mecascape is a truly unique timekeeping device Time+Tide
Dec 25, 2022

HANDS-ON: The CODE41 Mecascape is a truly unique timekeeping device

The practicality of a wristwatch is a controversial topic in a world of smartphones and atomic clocks, especially when you can get a bulletproof digital watch for less than $50. Inventing a separate timekeeping device that doesn’t strap to your wrist sounds more like a step backwards than forwards at first, but there are several … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The CODE41 Mecascape is a truly unique timekeeping device appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Five Sensational 2012 Vintage Champagnes To Kick Off The New Year From Louis Roederer Cristal, Pol Roger, And Bollinger. Cheers! Quill & Pad
Dec 24, 2022

Five Sensational 2012 Vintage Champagnes To Kick Off The New Year From Louis Roederer Cristal, Pol Roger, And Bollinger. Cheers!

For many watch enthusiasts, it is probably not a stretch to say that fine timepieces are often enjoyed with a fine glass of bubbly. So without further ado, here are five much-heralded prestige champagne releases from the stellar 2012 vintage that stand out for their extraordinary “taste.” Just in time for you to toast the start of 2023!

Best of 2022: Establishment Favourites SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin ref Dec 23, 2022

Best of 2022: Establishment Favourites

Having covered the year’s best from independent watchmaking, we now turn to the big names (but leaving out the value buys below US$5,000 that we cover in a subsequent story). The notable launches from establishment marques were predominantly evolutionary, either new-and-improved versions of existing models or vintage remakes. Nothing was a landmark achievement – except for the monumental Rolex Deepsea Challenge that is less of a watch than a statement of technical prowess. While not strikingly novel, many of the year’s best watches are executed very, very well. One of the best is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin ref. 16202. Practically unchanged from the 1972 original in terms of design, it doesn’t do anything new in terms of design. The the new “Jumbo” nonetheless is a superior watch, mainly thanks to a brand-new movement as well as subtle improvements to the case. As we detailed in our in-depth review, the “Jumbo” retains the look of the original, right down to the colour of the dial, which is reproduced with PVD treatment. But it is the new cal. 7121 that’s the star. Amongst the things, it boasts an efficient, bi-directional winding system, as well as a higher beat rate for the balance wheel, resulting in more stable timekeeping. But perhaps most important is the addition of a quick-set date. While getting this watch at the retail price is a Sisyphean task, it is one of the year’s top watches simply because it makes a classic much better....