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WWG25: two additional new releases - Saturday at the PalExpo
The Saturday files. We returned to PalExpo, and covered two additional brands which we came back to do a bit more material.
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Deployant
The Saturday files. We returned to PalExpo, and covered two additional brands which we came back to do a bit more material.
Monochrome
This year at Watches and Wonders 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s emblematic Reverso, a timeless timepiece dating back to 1931 – as we explained in this in-depth article – will have its moment. Indeed, the brand is focusing entirely on its icon, and with some handsome new releases. In 2023, the slimmer pink gold Reverso Tribute Monoface Small […]
Time+Tide
As hard as ceramic, as durable as metal, and a first in watchmaking.The post The innovative Tonda PF Chrono Ultra-Cermet is a dark take on Parmigiani Fleurier minimalism appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Perrelet’s flagship Turbine, with its mesmerising 12-blade turbine spinning to reveal glimpses of the lower dial, returns with a sporty chronograph complication. Bold and contemporary, the new generation of Turbine Chrono Neo in lightweight titanium cases relies on an elegant, highly legible display of elapsed times using two central chronograph hands. The three new Turbine […]
Fratello
If your favorite cologne is Bleu de Chanel, look no further. Chanel dresses the J12 Bleu in matte blue ceramic this year to celebrate the watch’s birthday. With 2025 marking a quarter century since the first J12 in black ceramic (and 22 years since the first white ceramic version), it’s time for a new color. […] Visit Chanel Launches The J12 Bleu Collection In Matte Blue Ceramic to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
The Omega Speedmaster 50th Anniversary Snoopy has a wonderful story to tell. Its face and case back are pure fun with a mindful message of what was almost lost. All wrapped in the latest edition of what is without a doubt an iconic watch.
Worn & Wound
Sitting just to my right, on a shelf near my desk, I have a clock. It’s baby blue, shaped like a 1950s retro-futuristic robot, and was given to me by the ‘Tooth Fairy’ the first time I lost a tooth. While subsequent teeth were never rewarded with anything comparable - the going rate in my house was a $1 Sacagawea coin - that blue robot triggered something in me, and I’ve had a bit of a thing for clocks every since. At this point, it’s been probably twenty years since I’ve kept my blue robot clock running. These days, the closest I get to a desk clock is probably my iPhone, which sits on a charging dock in Standby mode whenever I’m at my desk. Still, clocks have remained a fascination of mine, and I’m always here for a great new clock, especially when it’s as over-the-top and, frankly, ridiculous as the latest desk clock from Patek Philippe. The Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock ref. 27000M-001 is everything it says it is - that being a desk clock, and complicated. It’s also very expensive, with a sticker price sitting north of $1 million - which makes the Complicated Desk Clock more of an interesting thought exercise than a practical consideration, though considering that a very similar (albeit less green) clock hammered for $9.5 million as Patek Philippe’s submission for OnlyWatch 2021, $1.2-ish million is a comparative steal. Still, since I saw this thing pop up a few days ago, I’ve had a hard time getting it out of my head, exorbitant...
Monochrome
With its long-winded name, IWC’s new watch can best be described as the more complex brother of a Performance Chronograph released in 2023 for four-wheeled pilots. Equipped with the brand’s innovative perpetual calendar movement and its uncommon digital display, the Performance Chronograph IW388801 comes with a dashing black and golden colour scheme. Presented in 2023, […]
Deployant
Our last appointment for WWG25 is at Hublot. Here are our highlights and hands on impressions of the latest Big Bang watches.
Worn & Wound
When the Tentagraph was introduced at Watches & Wonders a few years ago, it was, in its way, a pretty radical idea. Grand Seiko, somewhat surprisingly, had never developed a mechanical chronograph to that point, and the high frequency movement at work in the Tentagraph was and is a significant accomplishment. For Watches & Wonders 2025, Grand Seiko has introduced a new spin on the Tentagraph that is perhaps as equally radical as the introduction of the first Tentagraph in 2023. The new Tokyo Lion Tentagraph (reference SLGC009) puts the Tentagraph into a new context entirely, using what might be Grand Seiko’s most avant-garde and aggressive case shape. The “Lion” chronographs, which have previously only existed with Spring Drive movements, are characterized by a 43mm titanium case with around 40 facets. That, folks, is a lot of facets, and with the Grand Seiko’s zaratsu polishing applied liberally throughout, it’s one of the most dynamic and intriguing cases in their catalog. It’s also, of course, not for everyone. The severe case lines might be a bit of an acquired taste, and the whole thing has an almost M.C. Escher-like quality about it. As someone who personally struggled with geometry in middle school, this case, when I first saw it, gave me no shortage of anxiety. Over the years though, as I’ve had more experience handling these complex cases, my appreciation has grown, and the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph jumped out to me as one of the more special release...
Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils a spectacular pink gold Reverso with a minute repeater powered by a new, fully integrated and shaped in-house movement. Taking advantage of the sleek Art Deco geometry of the Reverso and its swivelling case with two faces, the Grande Maison showcases its refined artistic crafts with an elegant guilloché decoration on the front […]
Deployant
Next up, we are at TAG Heuer and the booth which is heavily influenced by the recent new sponsorship of F1. Here are our hands-on impressions.
Deployant
We covered the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication. Here we provide you with our hands-on with the other key watch and our impressions.
Hodinkee
Another watch from F.P.Journe with a difficult-to-produce dial, case, and fantastic movement.
Monochrome
Alpina, a subsidiary of the Citizen Group since 2016 – specializes in sports watches, while its sister brand Frederique Constant focuses on accessible luxury. Its core collections, the Startimer, Seastrong, and Alpiner, embody the adventurous spirit of aviation, sea exploration, and mountaineering. Within the Alpiner lineup, the Extreme series includes a chronograph, regulator, skeleton models, […]
Fratello
There are always surprises at the major watch shows. This year, one of the unexpected releases was the Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof, a recreation of a manual-wind ’60s watch. The size and some other touches are true to the original. The big names dominate the scene at a show like Watches and Wonders. We spend hours […] Visit Introducing: The Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof to read the full article.
Monochrome
Roger Dubuis celebrates its 30th anniversary this year, a milestone that calls for a look back at its remarkable journey. While the brand’s history may not be long, it is undeniably rich and eventful. Today, however, the focus is on the latest revelation at Watches and Wonders Geneva: the Excalibur Grande Complication. This new timepiece […]
SJX Watches
Rolex had a little bit of everything at Watches & Wonders 2025, from the top-of-the-line GMT-Master II to the unexpected, retro-style Settimo bracelet for the Perpetual 1908. But the most accessible offerings are the entry-level Oyster Perpetual 28, 36, and 41 in pastel shades of lavender, beige, and pistachio – all in a matte finish in a first for the current Rolex line-up. Past versions of the Oyster Perpetual have featured dials with surfaces that were either glossy lacquered or metallic brushed, making the new iterations subtly distinct. The 28 mm model with a lavender dial Initial thoughts Like the left-handed GMT-Master II also launched at W&W;, the Oyster Perpetual trio are incremental improvements to existing models, but done well and priced reasonably (even if availability will be challenging). The matte dials in pastel colours give the Oyster Perpetual a more modern feel, which is a notable for a model that is several decades old and largely unchanged in terms of style. As is the norm at Rolex, a new feature – the matte finish in this case – is being released on a limited basis to start with, but I expect matte-finish dials to be found in more models over time. 41 mm with a pistachio green dial Being the entry-level model for Rolex, the Oyster Perpetual is priced modestly, with the most expensive model being the largest, 41 mm version priced at US$6,650. It represents solid value, though obtaining one, at least initial, will be difficult as these will be bes...
Time+Tide
A handsome callback to Alpina's heritage department and the 1960s.The post Alpina turns back the clock with its retro-inspired Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A major leap forward in movement technology, featuring a new indirect impulse escapement and high frequency movement that confirms the Crown's industrial manufacturing prowess.
Deployant
The Patek Philippe 5370R introduces a notable addition to the brand's collection with its debut in rose gold, marking a departure from previous versions. The use of a brown Grand Feu enamel dial paired with beige champlevé enamel subdials brings a distinct and elegant color combination.
Fratello
The 25th-anniversary celebration at Gerald Charles continues with the new Maestro GC Sport Tennis. This limited-edition watch offers a unique surface finish, a vibrant dial, and a comfortable strap. For those who play the game regularly, this watch was made to take on the courts instead of living in the spectators’ booth. We were fortunate […] Visit Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC Sport Tennis to read the full article.
Deployant
Our hands on session with Zenith. Here are our picks and highlights from what we saw, touched. Here are our impressions of the novelties.
Monochrome
While Chopard’s high-end L.U.C watches are built to outlast generations, the watchmakers and artisans who make the watches are not. Foresight is not a common virtue, but co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is determined to pass the baton and prepare future generations of watchmakers. The watch unveiled today is a testament to his commitment. Celebrating the 200th […]
Worn & Wound
Well, Tudor did the thing. And by “did the thing,” I mean that Tudor finally made the watch we all knew was coming, but maybe had started to doubt would ever arrive. But now the long wait is over, and the Black Bay Pro with Opaline white dial is here - and the new watch is everything people have been asking for and more, literally (but we’ll get to that in a minute). For as popular as the Black Bay Pro has been for Tudor, it didn’t take long after its launch in 2022 to notice a curious refrain of voices asking - nay, demanding - that Tudor bring a white dial in the style of the ‘Polar’ Explorer II to what is probably the outdoorsiest entry in the Black Bay family. Renders abounded, and a Polar BB Pro has been a fixture of prediction pieces for the last three years. Now, after a long wait, the watch so many asked for is here, and Tudor nailed it, not that there won’t be complaints. But first the good stuff. The dial here is awesome. The Opaline white dial (not Polar) looks - unsurprisingly - great against the all-steel look of the BB Pro, and the yellow GMT hand continues to please, albeit despite sacrificing some of the contrast that defined the original release. Thankfully, any contrast lost is more than made up for elsewhere, most especially thanks to the black surrounds on the hands and markers. The markers here are the same three-dimensional ceramic lume plots as on the black model, but here they forfeit the off-white look of the original BB Pro...
Monochrome
IWC’s Ingenieur collection has been slated for growth this year, welcoming new sizes, materials, and complications. Representing the most compact member of the family to date, the new 35mm Ingenieur is a smart move to conquer more wrist sizes in the ever-expanding unisex sector. Presented in three variants, the smallest descendants of Gérald Genta’s design […]
Worn & Wound
It’s the year of the Big Bang, and Hublot is marking the occasion with, among other things, a new set of transparent watches, aptly named the Big Bang 20th Anniversary “Master of Sapphire” Set. Now, I know that name may be a lot to work through, but the gist is this: Hublot has taken their impressive MECA-10 movement and - for the first time - cased it in sapphire five times over. Well, sapphire or SAXEM. The “Master of Sapphire” set puts Hublot’s mastery of transparent case materials on full display and includes five versions of the Big Bang MECA-10; one each in transparent sapphire, Water Blue sapphire, Deep Blue sapphire, purple sapphire, and neon yellow SAXEM (a synthetic sapphire material developed by Hublot). Plenty of Hublot fans have been waiting for the brand to introduce the MECA-10 movement - with its unique architecture and 10-day power reserve - to a sapphire case, and the results speak for themselves. It’s worth noting that the MECA-10 movement found here is the original HUB1201, rather than the new HUB1205 which was introduced earlier this year in the 42mm Big Bang MECA-10 and offered some small improvements to the design. Still, the OG MECA-10 is nothing to sneeze at, and the combination seen here is a good sign of things to come. Each of the five watches in this set is, besides the color, identical, with a 44mm case, and a color-matched silicone strap. Each is also marked as an anniversary watch with a ‘20 Years’ engraving on th...
Monochrome
The Alpine Eagle draws inspiration from the 1980s St. Moritz series, Chopard’s take on the then-trending luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet-a trend that has regained momentum. The Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon joined the collection in 2022, following the introduction of the chronograph and high-frequency models. While there’s always room to discuss influences […]
Monochrome
Twenty-five years ago, Chanel launched the J12 in black ceramic. Although brands like Rado and IWC had already produced ceramic watches, Chanel’s watch transformed ceramic into a precious material. An immediate hit, another unique facet of the watch was its unisex appeal. Designed by Chanel’s former artistic director Jacques Hélleu, the sleek, dark, sporty J12 […]
Deployant
Our next hands-on session in PalExpo is with IWC. Here are our highlights and impressions of what we feel are the best of the new releases.
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