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Highlights: “The Nevadian Collector”, a Spectacular Single-Owner Collection of Patek Philippe SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Apr 15, 2022

Highlights: “The Nevadian Collector”, a Spectacular Single-Owner Collection of Patek Philippe

The flagship event at Sotheby’s upcoming spring watch auction in Hong Kong is The Nevadian Collector. Focused on historically significant Patek Philippe references, the compact but valuable sale is the closing act of a notable collector based in California. Having started collecting over 30 years ago, the “Nevadian” became a major figure in vintage watch collecting after selling his media business in the mid 1990s. Now in his eighties, the gentleman’s collection was once some 400 watches, a number that has been gradually pared down in recent years. It included several timepieces that set priced records in recent years, including the ref. 2499 signed “Asprey” that sold for almost CHF4 million in 2018 and another ref. 2499 signed “Tiffany & Co.” that sold for the equivalent of US$3 million later that year. Another of the Nevadian’s watches: the crisp, third series ref. 2499 in pink gold with a “Tiffany & Co.” dial that sold for HK$23.5m, or US$3.00 million, in 2018, becoming the most expensive watch sold at auction in Asia that year Made up of only 40 lots – but with a cumulative value of US$15 million at the low estimates – the sale takes place in the evening of April 25, 2022, starting at 8:00 pm (GMT +8). Bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The upcoming auction represents the last of the Nevadian’s watches, but considering the depth and breath of the collection, the line up unsurprisingly encompasses many spectacular, import...

Rolex Sea-Dweller badly scratched in a cycling accident gets shock valuation on the Antiques Roadshow Time+Tide
Rolex Sea-Dweller badly scratched Apr 14, 2022

Rolex Sea-Dweller badly scratched in a cycling accident gets shock valuation on the Antiques Roadshow

On first glance, the watch looked to be in pitiful condition. Much of the dial was barely visible due to the severity of the scratches that had ravaged the glass. Yet beyond that superficial damage, it turned out to be in surprisingly good nick. Plus, there was the small matter of the fact that the … ContinuedThe post Rolex Sea-Dweller badly scratched in a cycling accident gets shock valuation on the Antiques Roadshow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Franck Muller Vanguard Line Cut SJX Watches
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Apr 14, 2022

Hands-On: Franck Muller Vanguard Line Cut

First announced two years ago as an exclusive for its retailers in France, the Vanguard Line Cut is strikingly different from the usual Franck Muller offering. Having just two hands and sandblasted titanium all round, the Line Cut is monochromatic, sleek, and thin, while also being as minimalist as a Franck Muller can be. Initial thoughts Better known for its big watches in over-the-top styles, Franck Muller did something different with the Vanguard Line Cut. It’s essentially a flatter, sleeker version of its Vanguard. But the Line Cut is more than a nip and tuck. The tactile feel of the Line Cut is surprising in the hand and on the wrist. It feels different from the typical Franck Muller, being lighter, slimmer, and restrained. And like all tonneau-shaped Franck Muller watches, the case is slightly curved so it hugs the wrist. Unlike most other watches in this segment that emphasise angles and straight lines, like the Bulgari Octo Finissimo for instance, the Line Cut is all about rounded corners and soft edges, so it wears quite comfortably. And the Line Cut has a new calibre developed for the watch, which makes it more interesting in technical terms. That said, the movement is slightly mysterious since Franck Muller provides no info about it other than the specs, at least officially. The specs indicate the movement is indeed an in-house movement, since they don’t correspond to any well-known calibres. (And based on what I have learnt about the movement unofficially, ...

Nicolas Cage loves shortbread, tree bark, and Grand Seiko Time+Tide
Grand Seiko When people use Apr 13, 2022

Nicolas Cage loves shortbread, tree bark, and Grand Seiko

When people use the terms ‘fashion’ and ‘watch’ in the same sentence near die-hard enthusiasts, it can cause a shiver down their spines. “Fashion watch” is practically a derogatory term in the watch community, dismissing a piece as a cheap build leveraging the name of a popular fashion house to elicit purchases. To be fair, … ContinuedThe post Nicolas Cage loves shortbread, tree bark, and Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: How the MoonSwatch impacted Swatch Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Apr 13, 2022

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: How the MoonSwatch impacted Swatch

Editor’s Note: We have partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into the market status of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton that is rocketing in value. Today we are going to dive into how the MoonSwatch collaboration with Omega has impacted … ContinuedThe post WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: How the MoonSwatch impacted Swatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Unpacking the new TAG Heuer releases from lab-grown diamonds to serious divers Time+Tide
TAG Heuer releases from lab-grown diamonds Apr 13, 2022

VIDEO: Unpacking the new TAG Heuer releases from lab-grown diamonds to serious divers

Amongst all the gargantuan and intricate displays at Watches & Wonders, the TAG Heuer area was buzzing. After bumping into Kristian Haagen from DailyWatch, Andrew headed in to break down the list of TAG Heuer new releases, and unpack what makes them so exciting. Lots of attention has been justifiably given to the TAG Heuer … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Unpacking the new TAG Heuer releases from lab-grown diamonds to serious divers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Dual-Crown “5th Anniversary” SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Apr 12, 2022

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Dual-Crown “5th Anniversary”

Founded in 2017, French brand Baltic quickly found success with its affordable, retro watches. The brand is now celebrating its fifth anniversary with a few commemorative editions in the pipeline, the first being the Aquascaphe Dual-Crown “5th Anniversary”, a retro “Super Compressor” style dive watch dressed up in streetwear colours of the 1990s, the decade during which the thirty-something founders of the brand grew up. Initial thoughts A micro-brand that got its start via crowdfunding, Baltic’s growth is a testament to its commercially-sensible products. Its watches are amongst the best propositions when it comes to retro watches. Baltic’s watches are all eminently affordable, with just enough details to give them a tiny bit more appeal than their prices would suggest. By the same token, the Dual-Crown is an appealing watch. Compact and affordable, the Dual-Crown was only available in muted colours to date. In fact, Baltic hasn’t launched a special edition of the model to date (and the brand does a lot of special editions), making the anniversary model unusual. The anniversary model continues where the original Dual-Crown left off, which is colour, or lack thereof. For anyone who liked the original but wanted something more lively, this is it. The anniversary Dual-Crown is only differs from the standard model in subtle ways, perhaps too subtle. As a result it does not have the strongly coherent aesthetic of Baltic’s other watches, which are clearly an...

Inside the Bremont x Williams event for the Australian Grand Prix Time+Tide
Bremont x Williams event Apr 12, 2022

Inside the Bremont x Williams event for the Australian Grand Prix

The Bremont boutique in Melbourne is nestled within the halls of St. Collins Lane, a shopping arcade in the heart of the city centre. Last Thursday, just 2.6 kilometres to the south, thousands of people from mechanics and volunteers to journalists and spectators began to swarm upon Albert Park Lake for the very first day … ContinuedThe post Inside the Bremont x Williams event for the Australian Grand Prix appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: IWC Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun in Green and White Ceramic SJX Watches
IWC Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Apr 12, 2022

Up Close: IWC Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun in Green and White Ceramic

Launched in 2007, Top Gun is IWC’s line up of all-ceramic pilot’s watches. But since its inauguration over a decade ago, the Top Gun has largely relied on a singular colour of ceramic – black in either a matte or glossy finish. IWC did offer a few models with coloured ceramic cases, but they were limited editions, until now. At Watches & Wonders 2022 IWC revealed ceramic cases in white or green with a pair of Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition – both regular production models. Instantly evoking stormtroopers from Star Wars, the “Lake Tahoe” edition has a case of white ceramic, while the “Woodland” edition is in forest-green ceramic. Both are 43.5 mm in diameter and contain the in-house cal. 69380. The two new models double the range of ceramic colours offered by IWC. They join the Pilot’s Watch “Mojave” editions launched in 2019 that had an unusual sand-coloured ceramic case, and last year’s “Laureus Sport for Good” in blue ceramic. “Woodland” Initial thoughts Long the brand’s bestselling line, the Pilot’s Watch has been a focus of IWC in recent few years. The brand has made safe bets with iterating on popular models that have received upgrades such as in-house movements, new dial colours, or more compact cases in new materials. In comparison the latest pair of chronographs are more adventurous. Intrinsically interesting because of their colours, the white and green ceramic cases are relatively uncommon for chronographs in this ...

The circuit breakers: Watchspotting at the 2022 Australian Grand Prix Time+Tide
Apr 11, 2022

The circuit breakers: Watchspotting at the 2022 Australian Grand Prix

Last week’s Australian Grand Prix set a new record for the highest attended weekend sporting event ever staged in Melbourne. That’s no mean feat in a sports-mad city that also hosts the Australian Open, the Melbourne Cup and is home to the MCG. Clearly, motorsports have enjoyed a serious injection of interest thanks to F1’s social … ContinuedThe post The circuit breakers: Watchspotting at the 2022 Australian Grand Prix appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: ROYTER expands its custom offerings with the DR-02 Chrono Sport Time+Tide
Apr 11, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: ROYTER expands its custom offerings with the DR-02 Chrono Sport

What differentiates a high-end watch from an entry-level watch? Is it the movement that’s used? Is it the inclusion of precious metals? Or could it be the brand name behind it? Well, if you ask me, the finishing of a watch and how unique it is plays a large role in the differentiation. (There is … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: ROYTER expands its custom offerings with the DR-02 Chrono Sport appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING – Panerai makes a splash with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Time+Tide
Panerai makes Apr 10, 2022

INTRODUCING – Panerai makes a splash with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro

Famous for its military-devised, utilitarian design, the Panerai Submersible diversifies with a slew of new 44mm references. A variety of materials and finishes is united under one name – Submersible QuarantaQuattro. Formerly attributed to the Luminor range, the Submersible collection achieved autonomy in 2019, but retained the patented crown-protection system. Already featuring more than 20 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING – Panerai makes a splash with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCH CONFESSIONS: “Divorce made me buy a crazy expensive watch” Time+Tide
Apr 9, 2022

WATCH CONFESSIONS: “Divorce made me buy a crazy expensive watch”

EDITOR’S NOTE: We recently ran the first part of our Watch Confessions in which Time+Tide began to interview members of the community to get them to share their watch-related secrets. In this second instalment, one anonymous watch lover tells how acquiring his dream watch didn’t turn out quite as planned… “Men can often do dumb things … ContinuedThe post WATCH CONFESSIONS: “Divorce made me buy a crazy expensive watch” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Marketing guru explains why the MoonSwatch was a genius co-branding move Time+Tide
Omega Apr 9, 2022

Marketing guru explains why the MoonSwatch was a genius co-branding move

Last week at Watches & Wonders, I suspect that the watch that was discussed most regularly and with most animation wasn’t even released at the show. Countless times over dinners or drinks, I heard the subject of the MoonSwatch pop up and everyone had an opinion on the shock collaboration between Omega and Swatch. Some … ContinuedThe post Marketing guru explains why the MoonSwatch was a genius co-branding move appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation with elegance Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation Apr 9, 2022

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation with elegance

You’d be forgiven if you thought that Jaeger-LeCoultre was only about their stellar movements, or the case-flipping Reverso watch. True, the Reverso is an icon of design, and their movements are so renowned that they’ve powered countless other brands’ finest timepieces, but there’s much more to JLC. So much more. For instance, one of the … ContinuedThe post The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation with elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: Thoughts on W&W; 2022 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe which reused their Baselworld Apr 8, 2022

Editorial: Thoughts on W&W; 2022

Having just closed its doors, Watches & Wonders 2022 (W&W;) was a success. All the industry executives I spoke with were satisfied with the event and predict it will happen again, barring any major disagreements between the important brands and groups that took part. That is borne out by the numbers as well. According to its organisers, the event had 22,000 individual visitors. Compare that to 2019 when SIHH had 23,000 visitors with about the same number of exhibitors, while Baselworld logged over 80,000 that year but with 20 times the number of exhibitors. All things considered W&W; 2022 had a good turnout. All the exhibiting brands stuck to the standard booth format of the event, except for the independent-minded quartet of Rolex, Tudor, Chopard, and Patek Philippe, which reused their Baselworld booths While turnout was good, business was great. The luxury watch industry is enjoying a boom without parallel – “sold out” and “waiting list” were certainly the defining phrases of the fair. I asked Gisbert Brunner, the veteran watch journalist who started his career before the Quartz Crisis, if he could recall a comparable period in history and he could not, though he said today does evoke the go-go years of the late 1990s. The slightly more drab section of the fair made up of almost identical booths Demand is so strong that assorted brands are being revived and new brands are entering the market. Even Cartier launched the highly complex and ingenious Masse Mysterieu...

VIDEO: From a slimline flying tourbillon to a retro stunner in green – the Chopard 2022 releases Time+Tide
Chopard 2022 releases If variety Apr 8, 2022

VIDEO: From a slimline flying tourbillon to a retro stunner in green – the Chopard 2022 releases

If variety is the spice of life, Chopard broke out the chilli sauce for Watches & Wonders 2022.  Their large range of releases covered a variety of genres while maintaining that upper-class character we expect from the famed Swiss watchmaker. Whether it was a complicated addition to a collection, a brand-new take on a retro … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: From a slimline flying tourbillon to a retro stunner in green – the Chopard 2022 releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Ingenuity meets head-turning design in the Parmigiani Fleurier collection Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier collection Parmigiani Fleurier Apr 7, 2022

VIDEO: Ingenuity meets head-turning design in the Parmigiani Fleurier collection

Parmigiani Fleurier is one of those hidden-gem brands that somehow remains out of the spotlight, yet permeates luxury watch culture in almost every sphere. Whether it be a watch on the wrist of a celebrity or the movement inside another maker’s timepiece, the Parmigiani name will crop up again and again. This year, their true … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Ingenuity meets head-turning design in the Parmigiani Fleurier collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 6, 2022

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph

Just after the curtain fell on Watches & Wonders 2022 – on the day after the fair closed in fact – Patek Philippe unveils one of its technical highlights for the year, the 1/10th of a Second Monopusher Chronograph ref. 5470P-001. In a first for the Geneva watchmaker, the chronograph is equipped with a high-frequency balance that beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5 Hz. The high-beat movement results in a lighting seconds hand that completes one revolution around the dial every 12 seconds, allowing the chronograph to precisely record elapsed times with a resolution of 1/10ths of a second (barring user error). This lightning seconds hand runs in tandem with the regular chronograph seconds hand, resulting in an unusual sight on the dial when the chronograph is running. Initial thoughts While lightning seconds chronographs have been done before, it’s surprising to see a traditionalist brand such as Patek Philippe have a go at the complication. The function is often associated with brands with a sporty, contemporary aesthetic like TAG Heuer and Zenith. In terms of aesthetics, the ref. 5470P is another example of the brand continuing to move towards a more modern, striking style, even for otherwise classical models. But under the hood is where it shines. Despite the seemingly simple idea of tacking on an additional gear train for the 1/10th of a second hand, the movement inside underwent a deceptively complex modification. And in typical Patek Philippe fashion, the co...

VIDEO: Jaeger-LeCoultre introduce a brand new complication inspired by shooting stars Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre introduce Apr 6, 2022

VIDEO: Jaeger-LeCoultre introduce a brand new complication inspired by shooting stars

This is a year of celestial celebration for Jaeger-LeCoultre with “The Stellar Odyssey” collection paying tribute to the centuries-old marriage of astronomy and horology in the most breathtaking ways. A few examples of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Watches & Wonders releases truly stand out from the crowd, such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 Galaxia and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Jaeger-LeCoultre introduce a brand new complication inspired by shooting stars appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING – The new Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante Ice Blue is cool… really cool Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Apr 6, 2022

INTRODUCING – The new Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante Ice Blue is cool… really cool

I’m sure that all of us have seen our fair share of integrated-bracelet sports watches, but if any of them were worth another look, the Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante certainly is. With a new “Ice Blue” colourway, it offers better contrast than its predecessor, and offers fierce competition against the likes of Parmigiani Fleurier and Bulgari. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING – The new Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante Ice Blue is cool… really cool appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING – Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Apr 6, 2022

INTRODUCING – Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton

Gloriously blending modern design and classic watchmaking savoir-faire, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton screams grail watch in any situation. It sits at the pinnacle of Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas lineup and deserves its place in the pantheon of the complicated sports watch. Housing a beautifully executed skeletonised perpetual calendar calibre in a case … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING – Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.