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Review: the Findeisen NauticMaster Worn & Wound
Jan 31, 2024

Review: the Findeisen NauticMaster

If you are not already following @mikestuffler on Instagram, then you probably should. He is a watchuseek.com moderator emeritus and talks nearly exclusively about German watches. It is through one of his 7000+ posts that I discovered the brand, Findeisen. Until then, I had never heard of them, despite having been around since 2017. They began with a traditional three-hand dressy sports watch and in 2021 they launched the F-1253 diver. With its distinct sawtooth bezel, this is the one that caught my attention. New for 2023-24 are new vibrant dial colors and a polished DLC-coated bezel inlay.  In for review are two of their NauticMaster divers, a black one with the new bezel inlay and a blue one without. They also have white or green dials, available with either bezel option and your choice of right or left side crown positions. I must admit, I did not know what to expect when they were shipped over. After a few years of admiring these online, I was very excited to get my mitts on these in “real-life.” The case measures 41.5mm in diameter, with a thickness of 12.5mm, a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm and an end-link to end-link length of 53.5mm. I read somewhere that if the tip of the male end link sits lower than where the spring bar attaches to the case, the latter measurement is not as pronounced. I have come to believe that this is true. On my 7.5” wrist, it feels very well balanced and not too wide, not exceeding the surface of my wrist at either end. I also took...

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon After Jan 31, 2024

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon

After the Carrera Dato Chronograph that we showed you on Monday, we have something a tad more complicated today. This is the teal-dial TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon. And it is all in the name - well, except for the fact that this new watch is part of the very popular Glassbox collection. So you […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon to read the full article.

TAG Heuer’s Carrera Dato Gets a Glassbox Update and a Bright Teal Dial Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer s Carrera Dato Gets Jan 30, 2024

TAG Heuer’s Carrera Dato Gets a Glassbox Update and a Bright Teal Dial

Last year was the year of the Glassbox for TAG Heuer, and in 2024 they’ve picked up nearly where they left off in what many will agree is their key LVMH Watch Week release. The twist with the latest Carrera in the Glassbox form factor (with that gorgeous domed crystal) is that this one comes in the cult classic “Dato” format, with an uncommon date window at the 9:00 position and a sole 30 minute counter at 3:00. It’s immediately recognizable, particularly in the bold teal colorway TAG has chosen for this release.  The latest Carrera cements the Glassbox style by extending into yet another segment of the long history of TAG’s most elegant racing chronograph. Just in the last year, we’ve seen Glassbox designs in the unusual 12:00 date Carrera, a reissue of the popular Skipper, and a completely new Porsche collaboration with one of the most unusual chrono movements we’ve seen. Now we get a Dato version, giving another old favorite a new look. Note that in addition to the dramatic color, the dial also features an unusual circular brushed finish that we imagine will give this Dato a dynamism in the light that isn’t easily captured in photos.  The teal Dato comes in a case measuring 39mm in diameter and 13.86mm tall. That might seem to be on the tall side, but the Glassbox design, with its prominent crystal and the outer flange on the dial, makes everything feel just a little more compact. The design of the crystal, and the way the flange fills it, also helps l...

40 Green Dial Watches, From Entry-Level to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 30, 2024

40 Green Dial Watches, From Entry-Level to Luxury

For many watch brands, green dials have become less of a niche novelty and more of an essential option, often even a go-to variation for their most popular models. After several years of steadily trending in the enthusiast community, green-dial watches can currently be found in collections that range from sporty to military to dressy, in a verdant rainbow of color tones, from mint green to forest green to dark olive green and various shades in between. Here's a selection of 40 green-dial watches that have caught our eye lately, in ascending order of price, many of which can be purchased right here on TeddyBaldassarre.com. Tissot PRX Quartz Mint Price: $375, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 10.5mm, Lug to Lug: 44.6mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 100m, Movement: Quartz ETA F06.115  Like the self-winding Powermatic 80 version spotlighted below, this quartz-driven model in Tissot’s PRX series features the tapering tonneau-style case and integrated metal bracelet that distinguished its predecessor from the 1970s. The pastel mint-green dial color is a recent debut in the collection, and has already made quite the splash with collectors who appreciate its eye-catching, playful aesthetic combined with its very accessible price point - the latter a product of the watch’s quartz movement, the Swiss-made ETA F016.115, which powers the simple three-handed time display and date indication at 3 o’clock. Tissot eventually offering this vibrant colorway in an automatic mo...

Hamilton Ventura and Elvis: A Comprehensive Guide and History Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Jan 30, 2024

Hamilton Ventura and Elvis: A Comprehensive Guide and History

One of the most enduring associations between a world-famous star and a legendary timepiece is the one between Elvis Presley and the world's first electric watch, the Hamilton Ventura. A bold horological gamble when it debuted in 1957, the Ventura is now a mainstay of Hamilton's sprawling portfolio of watch families, and the influence of the King of Rock 'n' Roll on its modern incarnations continues to this day. Read on to discover more about the Ventura and the musical icon who made it famous. Origins: The World’s First Electronic Watch (1957) Founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892, during an era in which the United States was a world leader in timepiece production, the Hamilton Watch Company has played a key role in American watchmaking and innovation throughout the 19th and 20th Centuries - even though the company itself migrated its production to Switzerland in 1969 and became part of the Swiss Swatch Group in 1984. By the early 1950s, Hamilton joined other watchmakers, in the United States and around the world, in the quest to conquer the newest frontier of portable timekeeping – making a wristwatch with a fully electric movement.  It was Hamilton’s U.S.-based competitor, Elgin, which originally took the lead in such a project, along with the family-owned French watchmaker Lip. Elgin’s “Watch of Tomorrow,” which was unveiled as a prototype in Chicago on March 19, 1952, was powered by Caliber 725, a movement with no mainspring or winding mechani...

Creativity Takes Center Stage with the Seiko Power Design Project Worn & Wound
Seiko Power Design Project From Jan 30, 2024

Creativity Takes Center Stage with the Seiko Power Design Project

From creating the world’s first automatic chronograph to creating the first quartz watch, Seiko is known for its cutting edge and revolutionary timepieces. In 2001, Seiko decided to have some fun and further encourage a culture of experimentation by starting the Seiko Power Design Project, an annual opportunity for Seiko designers to, as Seiko puts it, “deeply explore the essence of watches in a style different from their regular work and to generate innovative outputs.” Each year, designers are given a different theme, with past years tackling things like the neighborhoods or districts of Tokyo or more abstract concepts, such as “rebirth” and “fascination.” After its discontinuation in 2009, Seiko relaunched the project in 2023. This year’s Power Design Project has delivered another crop of unique watches under the theme of “incredibly specialized watches.” The standout of the collection is the Ambidextrous, a watch that can be worn on the left hand or the right-with it appearing a different color depending on which way it’s facing. Designer Kento Ito accomplished the optical illusion with a steel case painted black on one half and a dial painted with black and white stripes that trick your eye into thinking the dial is white or black depending on the viewing perspective. Hour, minute, and second hands extend past the center of the dial, with one half black and the other white to complete the illusion. It’s the sort of fun trick that would have y...

First Look – The new Duo of Hublot Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski Monochrome
Hublot Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski Jan 30, 2024

First Look – The new Duo of Hublot Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski

Hublot, deeply ingrained in contemporary pop culture, took a noteworthy step eight years ago by collaborating with the popular and flamboyant French artist Richard Orlinski. According to Ricardo Guadalupe, Hublot’s CEO, the timepieces Orlinski created are “instantly snapped up by art and watch collectors alike.” Orlinski’s signature faceted, bright-coloured creations include shiny beasts, King Kong […]

First Look – The Minimalist Louis Erard Regulator x Olivier Mosset Monochrome
Louis Erard Regulator x Olivier Mosset Jan 30, 2024

First Look – The Minimalist Louis Erard Regulator x Olivier Mosset

An exceptional collaboration between renowned Swiss abstract artist Olivier Mosset and watchmaker Louis Erard results in a minimalist black-on-black model destined to become a sought-after collector’s piece. Translating the artist’s abstract, reductionist codes into the miniature canvas of a watch, the Louis Erard Regulator flaunts the monochromatic palette of the rebellious Swiss artist. Produced in […]

Maurice Lacroix Debuts a Pair of New Aikons with PVD Coated Cases Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Debuts Jan 30, 2024

Maurice Lacroix Debuts a Pair of New Aikons with PVD Coated Cases

For years we’ve been calling for watch brands in every category to embrace color, and to give us more than the standard array of white/black/blue when it comes to dial variants. And for the most part, we’ve reached a point where most watchmakers are providing consumers with a healthy choice of dial variants beyond the standard. A new release from Maurice Lacroix, however, has me wondering if case color is the next frontier. The new Aikon PVD collection, a small series of just two watches, has the brand’s popular contemporary sports watch getting a PVD coating. One in gunmetal gray (admittedly, not super uncommon) and the other in a metallic shade of dark blue.  The Aikon so often spoken about as a far less expensive alternative to the Royal Oak that it’s hard not to think of AP’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in blue ceramic when considering the blue PVD Aikon. Obviously there are enormous differences. The aforementioned Royal Oak QP is, by all accounts, one of the most sought after watches in the world, full stop. The Aikon has a cult following, but it’s nowhere near the cultural touchstone of the Royal Oak. And the AP is complicated, and the Maurice Lacroix is time only. But still, from across the room (way, way across the room) the Aikon can play tricks on you – it has a similar silhouette and is a watch in a similar style as the Royal Oak, and now you can have one in blue, if you’d like.  The blue PVD version of the Aikon measures 39mm in diameter, whi...

Hublot Introduces a Three-Dimensional “Grand” Complication SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Jan 30, 2024

Hublot Introduces a Three-Dimensional “Grand” Complication

Hublot’s flagship launch at LVMH Watch Week 2024 is the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System, an enormous and outlandishly complicated wristwatch that takes a novel approach to each of its key functions: telling the time, winding, and regulation. The time is indicated by rolling cylinders, while the movement is regulated by an inclined flying tourbillon, and the mainsprings wound by a novel mechanism that relies on the linear motion of twin sliding weights. All the mechanical intricacy is visible under a panoramic, wraparound sapphire crystal curved on three different planes. Initial Thoughts Although Hublot is best known for its simpler models like the Classic Fusion, and sometimes gets flak for the basic movements used in those watches, the brand has long specialises in intricately-mechanical complications, most notably the MP-05 LaFerrari with a movement shaped like an automobile engine and the MP-07 with a 40-day power reserve. The MP-10 continues the series in the same oversized, hyper-modern format. The movement combines several unusual complications that have been found elsewhere, but never altogether. These include the cylindrical time display and inclined tourbillon, but more notably the linear winding mechanism. This is probably the most dynamic complication in the watch, since the twin weights on each side of the case will slide up and down with the motion of the wrist. Winding a movement with sliding weights has been tried several times in the past, includin...

First Look – The New Hublot Big Bang Unico Saxem Green Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Unico Saxem Jan 30, 2024

First Look – The New Hublot Big Bang Unico Saxem Green

In recent years, using coloured cases and transparency has become a prevalent trend in the luxury watch industry. However, Hublot stands out as the undisputed leader when creating an entire timepiece in vivid colours and transparent materials. One striking example is the lemon-yellow Big Bang Tourbillon Neon Yellow, unveiled by Hublot in 2023. This exceptional timepiece […]

John McGonigle Oileán H-B1 Triple Calendar Chronograph: I Don’t Know of a More Beautiful Complicated Movement Available for the Money – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jan 30, 2024

John McGonigle Oileán H-B1 Triple Calendar Chronograph: I Don’t Know of a More Beautiful Complicated Movement Available for the Money – Reprise

In 2021, John McGonigle launched the H-B1, the first watch under his solo brand Oileán. It's a beautifully hand-finished triple-calendar column wheel chronograph powered by a highly modified new-old stock Valjoux 88 movement. While not cheap, Ian Skellern thinks it’s the best value-for-money, exquisitely hand-finished, complicated watch he has ever seen.

Daniel Roth Unveils Tourbillon Souscription and DR001 Calibre SJX Watches
Daniel Roth Jan 30, 2024

Daniel Roth Unveils Tourbillon Souscription and DR001 Calibre

With Daniel Roth’s revival having become official last year, the brand has just taken the covers off the prototype of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription at LVMH Watch Week 2024. Retaining the style and dimensions of its 1990s inspiration, the Tourbillon Souscription is, however, an entirely new creation in mechanical terms, with the DR001 movement inside having been developed specifically for it by Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Initial thoughts The prototype of the Tourbillon Souscription arrives with subtle refinements compared to the images released last year. The aesthetics largely replicate the design of the 1990s originals, which was the brand’s goal from the beginning, at least for this opening act in its revival. Where the Tourbillon Souscription does better than the original is in the execution and mechanics. The guilloche dial is evidently top quality and also on a solid-gold base. More notably, the recessed area around the tourbillon, which is the actually the base plate, is finished with Côtes de Genève. On the originals this area was unfinished except for a rudimentary micro-blasting. But the calibre within is a more substantive achievement. The DR001 movement was conceived for this watch (though perhaps borrowing elements from LFT’s existing constructions) with aesthetics and traditional detailing in mind, explaining elements like the black-polished steel cock and linear winding click. In contrast, the originals relie...

Chronopassion: Genta’s First Champion To Paris’ Famed Retailer | Revolution Top Retailers | EP 1 Revolution
Jan 30, 2024

Chronopassion: Genta’s First Champion To Paris’ Famed Retailer | Revolution Top Retailers | EP 1

Chronopassion – Revolution Top Retailers 2024 Chronopassion is a single-boutique retailer based in Paris that was established more than 36 years ago by the famed Laurent Piciotto, has gained recognition and admiration in the luxury watch industry. Despite its small size, it has been placed on the same pedestal as industry giants. The retailer is […]

Hublot Taps One of their Favorite Artist Collaborators for the new Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinksi Worn & Wound
Hublot Taps One Jan 29, 2024

Hublot Taps One of their Favorite Artist Collaborators for the new Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinksi

For this year’s LVMH Watch Week, Hublot has unveiled their latest collaboration with the artist Richard Orlinskli, a pair of limited edition tourbillons in pop-art inspired shades with dramatically skeletonized dials. The Hublot partnership with Orlinski goes back to 2017, and during the ensuing years the Swiss watch brand and French contemporary artist have developed a bona fide collection within a collection. The Orlinski pieces, whether they’re to your taste or not, are so clearly connected to the artist that they are immediately recognizable, often using bold colors and prominent facets at oblique angles, a style that is a clear extension of his sculpture work. The new Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski is full of familiar ideas from previous collaborations and Hublot mainstays, but pulled together into something that feels entirely new.  The new collaboration starts with a 45mm Classic Fusion case in either yellow of sky blue ceramic, but true to form with the Orlinski watches, Hublot has given the artist the opportunity to shape and mold the case to his taste, adding the contours and facets that make the pieces so identifiable as “Orlinskis” to begin with. It’s uncommon for watch brands to give their collaborating partners this level of freedom, but it’s something we’ve seen from Hublot not just with Orlinksi, but in their work with tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi as well. Say what you will about Hublot, but they deserve credit for allowing the arti...

Introducing – The Green Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox Jan 29, 2024

Introducing – The Green Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox

To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the iconic Carrera chronograph last year, TAG Heuer unveiled the Carrera Glassbox and a 42mm Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon, a timepiece equally characterised by seamlessly integrated domed sapphire crystal. Inspired by the domed hesalite crystals found on early Carrera models, this watch with refined ergonomics presented a distinct and clean […]

A Favorite Complication Returns to the El Primero Family with Zenith’s New Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Worn & Wound
Zenith s New Chronomaster Original Jan 29, 2024

A Favorite Complication Returns to the El Primero Family with Zenith’s New Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar

This week marks the unofficial (but also kind of official) beginning of a busy season of new watch releases with LVMH Watch Week. In recent years, LVMH Watch Week has served as an initial showcase for new novelties from the big brands that fall under the LVMH umbrella, and sets the stage for a period that culminates with Watches & Wonders in April. The timeline is a holdover from an era when trade shows were truly trade shows and watch brands would lock in their sales to worldwide dealer networks for the year. These days, that still happens, but it’s also full of very public launches and an all out media blitz by the brands. If the past is any indication, we’re likely to see splashy new release announcements from brands in the other big luxury groups as well as many independents in the coming months, but it kicks off with LVMH, and specifically Zenith, today.  Zenith’s big new LVMH Watch Week announcement this year is the return of the El Primero Triple Calendar, a favorite reference among collectors going back decades for its mix of sportiness and old-school refinement. The triple calendar has faded in popularity as a complication over the course of time, largely due to movement availability, but also simply thanks to a trend toward cleaner and less complicated designs. But the El Primero execution of the triple calendar has always been particularly well balanced in the way it conserves dial space and makes use of the chronograph subdials to draw the eye where it n...